ORNITHOLIDAYS’ TOUR TO CUBA AT LEISURE

Endemic Birds & Winter Visitors

08 – 21 March 2003

A Personal Diary by Mike Witherick

Brochure

Saturday, 8 March

It was good to meet old friends again at a fairly relaxed check-in at Terminal 2. However, our patience was tried a little when our flight to Madrid was delayed by an hour. Being philosophical, what this really meant was that our transit in Madrid was that much shorter. After this minor hitch, the remainder of the journey went smoothly. Our flight from Madrid to Havana left and arrived on time. Within an hour, we had cleared immigration, collected our baggage and met the three people so critical to us on the tour, namely Yovani our courier, Hiram our birding guide and Enrique our driver.

Once aboard the splendidly comfortable 30-seater bus, we made it to our hotel at Vinales in the record time of two hours. Half an hour later, we were in our rooms together with our baggage. Would that all outward journeys went this smoothly!

Sunday, 9 March

Watching the dawn come up is one of the ‘musts’ when staying at Vinales. The backdrop formed by the curious shapes of the limestone mogotes gradually emerges out of the early morning mists. Soon we are seeing our first birds - an American Kestrel, a pair of Yellow-faced Grassquits busy collecting nesting material and the not very musical, but striking-looking Red-legged Thrush.

Our attendance at the buffet breakfast was essentially staggered, but by 9am we had all assembled for some introductory birdwatching. Probably the best sighting at this juncture was Red-legged Honeycreeper, but also seen were Cuban and Tawny-shouldered Blackbirds, Cuban Vireo, Cuban Bullfinch, Yellow-throated Vireo and Cuban Emerald. Overhead there were Cave Swallows and Cuban Martins, both species actively nest-building.

Eventually we moved off campus and explored part of a nearby valley. Here new birds came at a fairly steady pace. On the warbler front, we identified Palm, Prairie, Black-and-white, Common Yellowthroat and Black-throated Green. The last of these took a little sorting out, and a vocal Black-whiskered Vireo took a while to locate. Other notable sightings were of Eastern Meadowlark, Loggerhead Kingbird, Greater Antillean Grackle and Northern Mockingbird. Turkey Vultures and Antillean Palm-swifts dominated the local air space. But stars of the morning session were a pair of Cuban Tody, edging into second place another endemic pair, namely of Cuban Grassquits, seen at the same spot. By 11.30am we were beginning to wilt in the heat and humidity (both rather high for this time of the year) and so we made tracks back to the hotel for a spell of leisure before a 12.30pm lunch. Lunch itself was an acceptable three-course affair. Afterwards most opted for a siesta to make good a little of the sleep lost last night.

At 3.30pm we drove the short way to the nearby Valley of the Two Sisters and spent the next two hours walking along the foot of a steep limestone slope. A Red-tailed Hawk showed well, and a Gundlach's Hawk was spotted flying quite high and carrying some prey. We probably heard more than half a dozen Cuban Solitaires, but only Simon managed a decent view of one. Several others of us simply gained glimpses. However, there was some compensation in the sighting of a Cuban Trogon, Cuba's national bird.  We were amazed by the volume of traffic passing along the narrow track that we followed - people on foot, on brakeless bikes or in horse-drawn carts. It looked as if many of them were returning from a cock-fighting tournament.

We arrived back at the hotel a little before 6pm. This left more than an hour for sitting on our balconies and drinking in the sunset. The log was called in a small meeting area at the base of our hotel block. Afterwards we tucked into a buffet dinner and then made all speed for bed, mindful of tomorrow's early start.

Monday, 10 March

Yovani had things well organised and our breakfast of fruit juice, toasted sandwich and coffee was ready to be consumed at 6am. Such was the punctuality of the group that we left ahead of schedule. The journey to La Guira NP had plenty to offer us as Cuba woke up on a Monday morning. There was particular interest as we drove along the island's one and only autopista - Cuba's transport spine. Compensating for the lightness of motorised vehicular traffic was the mix of pedestrians, cyclists and horse-drawn carts. Would that the M1 was like this!

The smoothness of our journey to La Guira was suddenly interrupted at the last gasp, literally at the entrance to the national park. Put briefly, we discovered that the coach was too high to squeeze under the portal. This left no other option than to take a by-pass route that involved negotiating nearly half a mile of deeply gullied track. Enrique rose to the occasion and demonstrated exceptional skill in the way he manoeuvred the vehicle. Eventually, we joined the drive into the park and our driver rightly deserved the round of applause. He clearly warranted the title of the ‘Heineken of coach drivers’, being able to reach those parts that other drivers would refuse!

Eventually we reached the point where we parked up the bus and proceeded on foot up through this delightful area of open pine forest. Luck seemed to be on our side and during the next two hours or so we obtained good views of four Cuban endemics - the Cuban Solitaire (unbelievable views of a bird singing just above our heads on a bare tree), Cuban Trogon, Yellow-headed Warbler and Cuban Green Woodpecker. The last was seen in close proximity to a vocal West Indian Woodpecker. The warbler list was extended by good views of several Olive-capped and glimpses of a Worm-eating. Perhaps the biggest surprise was seeing a pair of Rose-breasted Grosbeaks - a rare transient or winter visitor. Other sightings included La Sagra's Flycatcher, Black-whiskered Vireo and a Scaly-naped Pigeon. 

We left the park by the back entrance and made for the caves in which Che Guevara sought refuge for 31 days in 1962. Some of the group did the brief tour, whilst others relaxed outside and enjoyed still more views of Cuban Solitaire and Yellow-headed Warbler, as well as Black-and-white Warbler and White-crowned Pigeon.

We returned to San Diego de los Banos for a relaxed lunch in a recently refurbished hotel. The courses kept coming, the plantain chips were particularly sinful but enjoyable. On the drive back to the hotel we stopped at two different reservoirs. At the first, we saw Great Blue Heron, Northern Jacana, Common Moorhen and American Purple Gallinule. At the second, we enjoyed superb views of probably close to 10 Snail Kites. We also did well for herons and egrets with sightings of Little Blue and Green Herons, Great and Snowy Egrets. Some Cuban Grassquits were seen keeping company with their Yellow-faced cousins. A Pied-billed Grebe was spotted with chicks, a pair of Killdeer were seen on territory and a dark morph American Kestrel posed on a telegraph wire.

We reached the hotel around 4pm, so there was plenty of time for a swim and just simply relaxing before meeting up at 7.15pm for log call. After dinner, a few of us stayed behind and listened to the poolside music provided by a small group. Brenda was the only one to take to her feet.

Tuesday, 11 March

Everyone arrived for breakfast spot on 7am. So punctual were we that we actually had time for a little terrace birdwatching before leaving the hotel at 8am. During the early part of our transfer to Playa Larga, Yovani gave us some background information about Cuba - its history, government, religion and some social issues such as housing and education.

At about the halfway mark, we made a stop at a somewhat unusual motorway service area. The coffee machine was out of action, but there were cold drinks and toilets. Throughout the journey we made good speed along the autopista and eventually arrived at Playa Larga around 12.30pm. Since not all the chalets had yet been serviced, we opted to go for lunch. Due to the heavy demand for fish, some of us took advantage of the offer of grilled shrimps.

After lunch we were delivered, along with baggage, to our chalets. This left a couple of hours to take a dip or take shelter from the heat of the afternoon. We reassembled at 4pm for a forest walk quite close to the hotel. We met Estrey, our local guide for excursions in the Montemar National Park. We had one species in mind and we did not have to walk far from the road when we came upon a pair of Bee Hummingbirds. For the next 30 minutes or so we enjoyed watching them, particularly the male as he did his display flight and moved around a tight circuit of favoured perches. Now and again, his head and throat flashed the most vivid red. What a stunner! As we made our way back to the road, for the second time we disturbed a quail-dove. This time it showed sufficiently long for Hiram to identify it as a Key West. Sadly, only a few in the group managed anything better than a glimpse. Elsie was pleased to be in the right place at the right time.

We assembled for evening meal at 7.30am. Keith opted for the vegetarian main course and in fact was presented with a repeat of the starter minus the tomato! The log was called afterwards in the bar area.

Wednesday, 12 March

Breakfast was served promptly at 6.30am and we boarded the bus 45 minutes later. We spent virtually the whole of the morning in a delightful area of light woodland surviving miraculously on a limestone pavement virtually devoid of soil. Cuba endemics were very much to the fore and during the course of our walk saw seven and heard one (Cuban Parakeet). Of those seen, two were new for the tour - Fernandina's Woodpecker and Cuban Pygmy-owl. Both were seen extraordinarily well. Views of the former included an intimate moment between a pair close to their nesting hole. An individual of the latter posed for some minutes out on a bare tree. The other five 'repeat' endemics were Cuban Vireo, Cuban Trogon (their calls were heard throughout the walk), Cuban Tody, Cuban Blackbird and Yellow-headed Warbler.  Other notable sightings included Broad-winged and Red-tailed Hawks, Cuban or Rose-throated Parrot, Black-cowled Oriole, West Indian Woodpecker and Yellow-bellied Sapsucker.

Rose-throated Parrot

We rounded off the morning with a visit to Les Cuevas dos Pisces where we enjoyed a cold drink and the colourful fish in the deep pool (linked directly to the sea). We arrived back at the hotel and sat down to lunch at 1pm. During the break, two noteworthy sightings on the campus were Cuban Crow and Cuban Parrot (well spotted Brenda).

We reconvened at 4pm and for an hour or so continued our search for elusive quail-doves. Perhaps the best that can be said is that we may have briefly heard the call of a Blue-headed Quail-dove. However, we did manage a repeat sighting of another endemic - Cuban Green Woodpecker. Zenaida Dover was new for the trip list; Cuban Pewees showed well.

We arrived back at the hotel a little before 6pm. Simon and I took a stroll in the grounds and located the nesting hole of a Northern Flicker, with one adult in attendance. For us, this completed the sighting of all Cuban 'woodpeckers' in one day! Had Arthur been properly attired, he and Brenda might have arrived at the tree before the bird disappeared.

Thursday, 13 March

Today we breakfasted at 6.15am and left the hotel by 7am. We made all speed for Rio Hatiguanico. A little way short of the jetty, we were dropped off by the bus. Swamp lay on both sides of the track. Whilst we heard the song of two different Zapata Wrens, only a few of the group managed to gain a glimpse of one of those birds as it flitted across a narrow cut in the reeds. Whilst this species prompted a degree of frustration, we had much better fortune with the other endemic that we sought here - Zapata Sparrow. Indeed, a pair posed for a considerable length of time in a bare tree and allowed us to approach within a matter of a few metres. Other species seen during our two hours in the locality included a flock of White Ibis (to add to the Glossy Ibis seen on the journey), a number of Belted Kingfishers, several Green Herons, another obliging Cuban Pygmy-owl and Black-cowled Oriole. As for smaller birds, we came across our first American Redstart, Yellow-throated and Yellow-rumped Warblers. Somewhat unusual was a Chestnut Mannikin. Interestingly this species was not on the Cuban list, but arrived it is thought from Puerto Rico (where it had been introduced from India) having been blasted across the seas some years ago by a hurricane. There is now a self-sustaining population in the Swamp. At the river we spotted Common Moorhen, Pied-billed Grebe and Little Blue Heron.

On the way back to he hotel, we stopped at the National Park office and managed to negotiate the exchange of one of our vouchers for a boat trip on Saturday morning. We lunched at 12.30pm and a majority of the group were happy to see the return of shrimps to the main-course rotation.

The late afternoon session was largely spent at two conservation projects - the one concerned with two species of ‘crocodile’ (one of them endemic) and the other with an endemic and rather prehistoric-looking fish that was once abundant in the Swamp. We added little on the birding front, other than good views of the local race of Osprey distinguished by its remarkably white appearance. We had hoped to locate some Red-shouldered Blackbirds, but we failed to catch up with this endemic.

The remainder of the day followed its now established pattern of shower and sun-downer, log call, dinner and early to bed.

Friday, 14 March

Breakfast was taken as usual at 6.15am, but today there were some welcome changes such as fresh fruit, real orange juice and the option of a ham omelette. We spent the morning slowly driving out to La Salina and back - in all just over 40km. For the occasion, Yovani had arranged for us to use a much smaller bus capable of negotiating the narrow and rather rough track. This morning there was a little more cloud about and this helped to keep temperatures down to a pleasant level.

Given the nature of the habitats that we drove through, the emphasis was very much on wetland birds, but perhaps perversely we started the day with an endemic land bird -  Bare-legged Owl. A pair was watched at their nest. Nearby a pair of West Indian Woodpeckers showed well.

Flamingos

As for the wetland birds, it is difficult to know what impressed most. Was it the many very rosey looking Caribbean Flamingos, the Roseate Spoonbills or the Reddish Egrets that most caught the eye? Wood Storks impressed in flight, as did Tricolored Herons. We managed to spot no less than 13 species of wader, from Least and Western Sandpipers to Short-billed Dowitcher and Willet. Somewhat unsual for these parts was the sighting of 12 or so Dunlin of the large 'Greenland' variety. Whilst we saw no gulls, there were three species of tern on offer - Caspian, Royal and Gull-billed. Even more remarkable, by Cuban standards, was the sighting of five White Pelicans in amongst their Brown cousins. Apparently, these represent only the ninth ever record of the species in Cuba.

Whilst our attention was largely held by wetland species, reference should be made to the Common Black Hawks seen well during the course of the morning. Given their rather brown plumage and their 'strange' behavioural traits, it seems that Cuba's Black Hawks may well be candidates for a split and so become yet another endemic species. And talking of their behaviour and thinking particularly of their crab diet, it should be noted that David suffered a bite - not by a bird but by one of the many crabs frequenting the shallow waters! He seemed to receive very little sympathy from Helen!

We arrived back at the hotel at midday and 30 minutes later sat down to a most welcome lunch and a restorative mojito (thanks, Arthur). As is now the custom, the swimming club met around 3pm and we left for a second excursion an hour later. Our destination - a return visit to the Bermejas area. It has to be said that this proved to be much less productive than the first. A glimpse of Ruddy Quail-dove is the best that can be claimed in terms of species particularly sought, along with, at nightfall, several calling Cuban Nightjars (now split from Greater Antillean and therefore qualifying as yet another Cuban endemic). Joyce and John were reluctant to play their part in the mossies’ food chain!

We arrived back at the hotel at 7.45pm and met up 30 minutes later for dinner followed by log call.

Saturday, 15 March

Again it was breakfast at 6.15am and departure 45 minutes later. This morning we made all speed back to Rio Hatiguanico for a cruise down and back up the river - one of the few lines of access into the heart of Zapata. We divided ourselves between two open boats. As we made our way downstream, we were impressed by the abundance of birds, particularly Common Moorhens, American Purple Gallinules, Limpkins and Snail Kites. Least Grebe and American Coot were sighted for the first time this tour. Among some Tawny-flanked Blackbirds, a few of their endemic cousins, the Red-shouldered, were spotted.

Having motored some way down the river, we made a landing close to a point where clear sea water was upwelling through a deep cave in the limestone. After some 200 metres, the riverine forest gave way to an open area of dense reed and saw-grass. During the next 30 minutes Zapata Wren was heard and eventually came to within a few metres. But such is the subterfuge of this species, that not all of the group could see it as it skulked deep in the vegetation. A Northern Flicker was rather more cooperative, and back in the forest Black-throated Blue and Black-and-white Warblers were seen as well as American Redstart and Black-cowled Oriole.

On the return journey my boat developed a mechanical problem that was soon resolved by the clever use of a bent nail! At 11am we reboarded the bus and headed back towards Playa Larga. We made one stop at the service area and National Park office at Australia and much to our surprise were given a cold drink. This and the offer of a sandwich were apparently included in the price of our morning cruise. The hotel was eventually reached around 12.45pm and soon we were sitting down to a good lunch.

Today’s afternoon leisure period was curtailed by 30 minutes and so we left the hotel at 3.30pm - the weather was still distinctly hot. Our guide this afternoon was Angel accompanied by his attractive step-daughter, Guarida. We spent the next two hours in the Soplillar area and our target species was Stygian Owl. Before we eventually got to grips, we had time to watch a pair of Cuban Green Woodpeckers, a male American Redstart, Black-and-white Warbler, Yellow-headed Warbler and our first Blackburnian Warbler. A Bee Hummingbird put in a brief appearance and later Angel showed us the diminutive nest of a Cuban Emerald. It was Hiram who eventually located a young Stygian Owl sitting out in the open - it still retained a little of its juvenile plumage. Then not to be outdone, Angel located one of the parent birds sitting higher in the same tree, but in deeper cover. The scope views of both birds drew gasps of appreciation. Connie wished that all birds showed this well!

We returned to the hotel around 6pm and met up at 7.15pm for log call followed by our last dinner at Playa Larga. An innovation on tonight's menu was spaghetti bolognaise. This came about when Simon suggested to the catering staff that they might combine ground beef (Robin’s favourite) with the spaghetti napolitana dish! It proved to be a popular choice!

After dinner Simon and I stumbled across an immature Yellow-crowned Night-Heron. We were able to show it to some members of the party in the feeble light of our torches.

Sunday, 16 March

Today was transit to Camaguey day, and thanks to the group's punctuality and Enrique's superb driving, we left Playa Larga at 7am and reached the outskirts of Cuba's third largest city a little before midday - just over 400km covered in 5 hours including a 20-minute stop at a service area. During the transfer, the most significant avian event was the spotting of two Crested Caracaras. Since our vouchers indicated that lunch would be at the visitor centre in La Belen, we carried on past the hotel and reached that venue 45 minutes later. All seemed to be going well until we discovered that the ground agents had failed to be in touch with the Reserve. In short, we were not expected for lunch. In many places, that would have been the end of the story - no food. But to their credit, the centre’s staff (particularly the manager, Dionesus) were not phased by our arrival. Cold drinks were served; some bread and cheese produced to stave off the pangs of hunger whilst the meal was being prepared. Eventually we sat down to a very acceptable repast!

At 4pm, Dionesus, took us for a walk through a delightful piece of open woodland. During this we enjoyed good views of the endemic Cuban Parakeet and flight views of the scarce Plain Pigeon. We listened intently for the rasping call of the Cuban Palm Crow, but in the event we only heard the rather whimpish calls of the Cuban Crow.

At 5.45pm we started the drive back to Camaguey where we were welcomed by the hotel staff and offered a glass of Cuba libre (white rum and coke)! We met in the dining room at 7.30pm and enjoyed a good buffet supper. The log was called poolside and afterwards most stayed on to watch (and participate in) a demonstration of Cuban dancing.

Monday, 17 March

There was thunder and lightning during much of the night and at 6.15am, when we assembled for a early breakfast in the bar, the rain was quite intense, made worse by a frisky wind. Due to this inclemency, we postponed our departure to 7am. It continued to rain heavily all the way down to La Belen and Pedro, our local guide for the morning, seemed fairly gloomy about the weather prospects when I called for him at his house. However, we decided to press ahead with seeking out four key species. The first was the endemic Giant Kingbird. Pedro took us straight to a breeding site. Miraculously the rain stopped and we were able watch a pair of this threatened and rare endemic.

Next on the list was Cuban Palm Crow. Seeking this required us to walk up a muddy track for the best part of a kilometre to an open stand of Royal Palms. Sadly, the rain returned and we all suffered a degree of saturation. Initially, there were a number of warbler species to keep our minds off our discomfort - Black-throated Blue and Green Warblers, Black-and-white and Yellow-throated Warblers, as well as American Redstart. Just as the weather began to improve, so did our luck and it was not long before we heard the distinctive call of the Palm Crow and later saw at least eight individuals, some of them carrying nesting material.

We returned to the road and eventually took an even muddier track on the other side that led to a small lake. Here, despite the return of the rain (albeit lighter) our luck was in. First, we saw a number of the scarce West Indian Whistling-duck and then three Masked Ducks. Around the shores, there were plenty of Common Yellowthroats. Northern Rough-winged Swallows and Cuban Martins hawked for insects over the water.

It was just after midday when we reached La Belen visitor centre. The coach had some difficulty negotiating the track made slippery by the rain. Most opted for the pork at lunch which was served promptly and without yesterday's angst. On our way back to the hotel, we made yet another stop at Pedro's house and several in the group purchased some of his paintings.

We reached the hotel around 3pm and this left a good spell of leisure time before dinner - a chance to try the pool or take the hotels free taxi into the centre of Camaguey. Some of us met at 5pm for a spell of birdwatching in the hotel grounds, but no sooner had we spotted a pair of Zenaida Doves than play was again interrupted by the onset of rain.

The evening meal was a la carte tonight. There was a sense of occasion with Yovani being presented with a copy of the Birds of Cuba to mark his birthday. The demonstration of Cuban dancing again provided an enjoyable entertainment. The log was called afterwards in the foyer.

Tuesday, 18 March

Today we were able to enjoy the full buffet breakfast rather than the early birders’ ‘breckie’.  Due to the efficiency of the staff and the punctuality of the group, we were able to leave the hotel a little before 8am. We stopped on the outskirts of Moron for a coffee or cold drink. The interest from there on lay in crossing the 18km causeway that links Cayo Coco to mainland Cuba. Red-breasted Mergansers were frequently seen; perhaps more interesting were the Magnificent Frigatebirds. Other sightings included Laughing Gull and an abundance of Double-crested Cormorants.

Once across the causeway, we made a couple of brief stops just to check out the warbler situation in the mangrove belts fringing the road. The best we could manage were Northern Waterthrush and Common Yellowthroat. Mind you, the heat of the day was against us, so we headed directly to our all-inclusive base for the next two nights. We soon completed the paperwork, were banded and then shown to our spacious rooms. Several found the all-inclusiveness even extended to a third bed!

We met at 12.45pm for a buffet lunch - the choice of dishes on offer was overwhelming, but somehow we coped.........! Afterwards there was time to relax and swim either in one of the pools or in the sea. Simon reckoned that this was one of the finest beaches he had ever seen – the visual combination of white sand and blue sea was absolutely stunning.

We met at 4pm and drove a short way to pick up Alain, a colleague of Hiram's working on the Cayo. We drove on for a few kilometres and then walked an open track running through tall coastal scrub forest. We had two species particularly in mind - two endemics - the Oriente Warbler and Zapata Sparrow. Happily, eventually everyone in the group gained good views of both species. It was interesting to find the Zapata Sparrow here occupying a distinctly different habitat from that of the colony on the Zapata Swamp. Perhaps we have here two distinct species in the making.

We returned to the hotel at 5.45pm with more time in hand for exploring the all-inclusive bar and relaxing before meeting up for log call at 7.15pm - in the art gallery. A relaxed buffet dinner followed.

Wednesday, 19 March

We were allowed to enter the dining room 10 minutes ahead of the scheduled 7.30am opening. At 8am we left the hotel and made all speed for the lighthouse on Cayo Paredon Grande. Erring on the side of caution, we opted to walk across the bridge linking to Cayo Romano whilst Enrique drove the coach gingerly across the rather rickety-looking bridge.

At the lighthouse, we tried first for Bahama Mockingbird, but after about 15 minutes decided to give priority to two other species - the endemic Cuban Gnatcatcher and the nearly so Thick-billed Vireo. Happily, we succeeded with both species, the latter proving a little more difficult until we discovered that it took exception to the song of the Cuban Vireo. Flushed with our success, we decided to walk a hitherto unexplored track that passed through Bahama Mockingbird habitat and led to a stretch of foreshore where the rare Piping Plover can be seen during the winter months. Sadly, we failed to find either species, and became very hot in the process. Elsie impressed us with her sprightliness. Other birds seen during the morning session ranged from Broad-winged and Common Black Hawk to Oriente Warbler and Cuban Bullfinch. There were also plenty of herons and egrets around.

We arrived back at the hotel at 12.45pm. Lunch followed soon afterwards, then an extended period of leisure time up to log call at 7.15pm. Simon concluded the tour with an appropriate ornithological rendering of La Guantanamera!

Thursday, 20 March

Most were down in the 24-hour bar by 6am and took advantage of the coffee and croissants before boarding the bus 30 minutes later. Some two hours into our transit to Havana and as we sped along the autopista packed breakfasts were distributed and consumed. A little later, a stop at a service area provided the chance for a coffee or cold drink.

We arrived in Havana around 12.30pm and 30 minutes later were sitting down to a speedily served lunch of chicken followed by ice cream and coffee. The remainder of the afternoon was occupied by a city tour led by Yovani. Perhaps the most memorable parts were the historic core, currently undergoing restoration and conservation, and the view of the city from the statue of Jesus Christ.

Having dropped Keith and Lillian off at their hotel, we rounded off our city tour at the Capitol. From there it was a 45-minute drive to the airport for an early check-in for our flight to Madrid. Our timing was good in that the check-in opened 4 hours before the flight and we were able to obtain our preferred seats. The flight took off exactly on time.

Friday, 21 March

Happily, we had a seamless return to London via Madrid, with our flight arriving very much on schedule and with Heathrow remarkably quiet for a Friday late afternoon. Baggage safely retrieved, the group then disbanded – sadly!

Mike Witherick
Ornitholidays
29 Straight Mile
Romsey
Hampshire
SO51 9BB
Tel: 01794 519445        e-mail: Ornitholidays@compuserve.com
April 2003

Our tour to Cuba in 2004 is from the 06 March to 19 March and will be led by Simon Boyes and Tony Pym.  The cost per person in a double/twin-bedded room is £2,199.00 and £2,359.00 per person in a single room.  Our 2005 tour is from 05 March to 18 March  and will be led by Tony Pym.  The cost per person in a double/twin-bedded room is £2,299.00 and £2,459.00 per person in a single room. 

GUANTANEMERA: ("The Woman from Guantanamo") is Cuba's most popular song. The tune was composed in 1928, and words added in the 1950s. They are based on the revolutionary writings of Jose Marti, a national hero whose statues are a common sight in Cuba. It is a song about freedom, now played in cafes and restaurants worldwide. It is ironic that Cuba's best-known freedom song is about Guantanamo, the place that we now associate with a U.S. military base. Here we present the ornithological version. (The verses may seem not to scan well, but the tune is flexible and allows for extra syllables here and there):

In the colours of the Cuban flag, the Trogon sits in a tree,
The Solitaire sings a sweet song, and tut-tut-tut goes the Cuban Tody
And here's the tiniest bird in the world: a hummingbird that resembles a bee

CHORUS: We've come to Cuba, but not to sunbathe or scuba

With anticipation we seek the birds of the nation
The mythical Zapata Rail keeps himself well out of sight
But three owls we see very well: Bare-legged and Pygmy in midday sunlight

And best of all is that Stygian chick staring at us while his mother sleeps tight
Giant Kingbird and Palm Crow so rare: Pedro ensures they're in view,
And among La Belen's royal palms Rose-throated Parrot and Parakeet too

And if there's any endemic you've missed, then just ask Pedro: he'll paint it for you

Itinerary and Weather

Except for the 17 March, when there was some heavy thundery rain, the weather was dry, but hot and humid. Daytime temperatures ranged from 26 ^oC to 33^oC

© Ornitholidays

Full trip list and commentary (pdf)

Brochure