Costa Rica Tour Report, Thursday 13th to Saturday, 29th March 2003

Our Continental Airlines flight from London Gatwick left at around 10.30 a.m. bound for Newark, New Jersey where we arrived eight hours later at 1.30 p.m.
   
Our onward flight to San José left at about 5.00 p.m. and arrived in Costa Rica at 9.20 p.m.   Simon Ellis of Birdwatch Costa Rica and driver, Rigo met us at Juan Santamaría International Airport and an hour or so later we were in our hotel and ready for bed.  We had altered our watches to read 10.30 p.m., but our bodies knew that it was actually 4.30 a.m. GMT and that it had been a very long day!

This morning the six hour time difference worked in our favour and it was little effort to be ready when Rigo arrived for a 6.00 a.m. departure to the Cerro de la Muerte area of the Talamanca Mountains.

It was a warm, sunny morning and after a journey of about an hour and a half, we were ready for breakfast when we arrived at Finca Mirador de Quetzales.  The birds could not be ignored, however, and it was some minutes before we eventually sat down to our first rice and beans - gallo pinto.  Two very confiding Black-capped Flycatchers were the first birds to get our attention as we left the bus and these were quickly followed by Blue-and-white Swallows, Rufous-collared Sparrows, Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers and Fiery-throated Hummingbirds.

Green Violet-ear Photo: S C Brown

We spent the morning with resident guide, Jorge, walking a mainly woodland trail.  This produced quite a good variety of birds including Sooty and Mountain Robins, Green Violet-ear, Hairy Woodpecker, Yellow-thighed Finch, Volcano Hummingbird, Wilson's Warblers and Black-billed Nightingale-Thrushes, while Black Vultures and a Red-tailed Hawk sailed overhead.  However, the main attractions were undoubtedly the Resplendent Quetzals - at least four of them, including one male in particular which allowed about as good a view as one could wish for.  This bird sat more or less motionless, only a few yards away, while photographs were taken, giving us ample time to admire its wonderful iridescent plumage and long "tail".  (The long streamers are actually the upper tail covert feathers and the "real" tail is much shorter.)
After a relaxing lunch, we took the bus higher up the mountain to an area of páramo, a treeless, subalpine habitat with grasses and shrubs, the home of Volcano Junco.  It took a little time, but eventually we found two of these birds by the 'roadside' and had good views of them from the bus.  We were now at an elevation of about 11,000-ft.

Next we made our way down the beautiful San Gerardo Valley to the grounds of the Hotel de Montaña Savegre at the bottom. We stopped a couple of times on the way to look for birds and at the hotel, we spent time at the hummingbird feeders before walking the short distance to the river bridge.  Highlights were: Acorn Woodpecker, Black-throated Green Warbler, Flame-throated Warbler, Red-tailed Hawks (one flying, one in a tree), lots of Sooty Robins and Long-tailed Silky-Flycatchers, Torrent Tyrannulets, Tennessee Warbler, Flame-coloured Tanager, Baltimore Oriole and dozens of hummingbirds - Scintillant Hummingbirds, Magnificent Hummingbirds, Green Violet-ears, Purple-throated Mountain-Gems and a White-throated Mountain-Gem.

It was difficult to tear ourselves away from all these birds and their picturesque surroundings and it was 7.45 p.m. by the time we got back to our hotel in San José.

An early departure from the Hotel Ambassador enabled us to be at Tobías Bolaños Airport at Pavas well in time for our scheduled 6.00 a.m. flights to Tiskita Jungle Lodge.  We took off in three separate planes and were joined by Luis Vargas, the resident bird guide from Tiskita who was returning there after having a week off.

Some of us had a direct flight taking just over an hour; others had to change planes at Puerto Jiménez and this took a little longer.  Either way we had wonderful views of the country from the air and it seemed no time at all before we were coming in off the Pacific towards Tiskita's tiny airstrip.  As we walked up to the lodge for breakfast, Streaked Flycatcher, Blue-throated Goldentail, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Cherrie's Tanager and a juvenile Three-toed Sloth were just a few of the species seen.

After settling into our cabins overlooking the Pacific Ocean, we started birding right outside the dining area, where throughout our stay there were always plenty of birds to be seen. This morning there were dozens of Tennessee Warblers and Philadelphia Vireos, as well as Golden-hooded Tanagers, Thick-billed Euphonia and Blue Dacnis, while overhead Turkey and Black Vultures soared.  A short walk on a forest trail produced two more Three-toed Sloths and a Northern Ghost Bat, the latter roosting on the underside of a palm frond.  And then back at the lodge, we saw our first Chestnut-mandibled Toucans, while 50 or more Magnificent Frigatebirds were now soaring high above.

After lunch we had time on our own to look at some of the common birds round the lodge - Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, Blue-grey Tanagers, Palm Tanagers, Green Honeycreeper, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Golden-naped Woodpeckers, Chestnut-sided Warbler, Black-hooded Antshrike and Masked Tityra, while the soaring birds were joined by two Broad-winged Hawks and several American Swallow-tailed Kites. Troupes of both Red-backed Squirrel Monkeys and White-faced Capuchins also provided entertainment and photo opportunities.

Late in the afternoon we walked back down to the airstrip and to the palm-fringed beach, an outing that produced, amongst others: Cocoa Woodcreeper, White-tipped Dove, Ruddy Ground-Dove, Variable Seedeater, Smooth-billed Ani, two Mangrove Black-Hawks, Yellow-headed Caracara, House Wren, Black-striped Sparrow, Cattle Egrets and Common Tody-Flycatchers.  As we watched a flock of about 50 Forster's Terns, 37 Brown Pelicans flew overhead and way out at sea there were lots more following a small fishing boat.  Actually perched on the rigging of the boat were dozens of Magnificent Frigatebirds.

We gathered at 6.00 a.m. for some early pre-breakfast birding just outside the main lodge and without having to move more than a few yards saw plenty of birds.  Once again there were dozens of Tennessee Warblers with some Philadelphia Vireos moving around with them.  New species included Pale-billed Woodpecker, Grey-headed Tanager, Bronzy Hermit, Long-tailed Hermit and Spot-crowned Euphonia and we also watched Lineated Woodpeckers as they defended their nest against two White Hawks.
As we went into breakfast our attention was drawn to a small Boa Constrictor and this proved to be the only definitely identified snake species on the entire tour.  It had not moved when we returned later for our lunch.

The morning walk took us back on to forest trails.  We were much earlier than yesterday and as a result it was much more productive.  Highlights were: Buff-throated Saltator, a roost of about a dozen Common Tent-making Bats, Pale-billed Woodpecker, a Black-tailed Flycatcher at its nest, Black-throated Trogon, a stunning male Blue-crowned Manikin, several immature male Red-capped Manikins, Band-tailed Barbthroat and Violet-crowned Woodnymph.  Also on the wing were the impressive Blue Morpho and Caligo (Owl) Butterflies.

We were told that it hadn't rained at Tiskita for two months, so it was a little disappointing that our walk after lunch had to be delayed for half an hour or so by the weather.  We set off as soon as we could, Luis leading us through the orchard, pointing out some of the 100 or more varieties of fruits that grow at Tiskita.  Quickly, however, our attention returned to birds when a King Vulture was seen perched in a distant tree.  And then, after he had heard it call, Luis located what was arguably the rarest bird seen on this tour - a Red-throated Caracara.  Both birds sat still long enough for all of us to have great telescope views.  A second Caracara could be heard, but remained out of sight.  We carried on to walk a short distance along a forest trail and again saw Blue-crowned Manakin.  Some of us also had a brief view of a Buff-rumped Warbler and a Golden-crowned Spadebill.

Later, after dinner, a Pauraque was heard calling close by the lodge and was seen by those of us not already heading to our beds.

Once again the day began with pre-breakfast birding at 6.00 a.m.  This morning's star was a Bright-rumped Attila, which gave an impressive vocal performance just outside the main lodge.  A Long-tailed Hermit also put in a brief appearance.  We walked the Waterfall Trail, but found the waterfall reduced to not much more than a trickle after the long dry spell. There was, however, enough water to attract an Amazon Kingfisher. Back at the lodge, we could see a Roadside Hawk perched in a tree by the airstrip.
After breakfast we set off again to spend the morning in the forest, this time taking a rather more strenuous route that proved to be well worth the effort.  Highlights were several displaying Red-capped Manakins, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Slaty-tailed and Black-throated Trogons, two Barred Woodcreepers chasing each other, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, a Bay-headed Tanager feeding a young one, White-shouldered Tanager, Long-billed Gnatwren, Dot-winged Antwren, Little Hermit, Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Chestnut-backed Antbird and Mantled Howler Monkeys.
Rain again caused us to delay briefly our afternoon walk, but it soon eased off and once again we headed towards the airstrip and the beach.  Here we saw many of the same birds that we had seen on Saturday afternoon, but some gave better views and there were new species including Crimson-fronted Parakeets, Grey-capped Flycatcher and Plain Wren.  Also we were able to watch two Yellow-headed Caracaras, one of which was eating a lizard; there was a Variable Seedeaters' nest with young, a Yellow-bellied Elaenia and a Thick-billed Euphonia.  And there was a Streaked Flycatcher – or was it a Sulphur-bellied? Certainly it was the subject of some debate.

Back at the lodge, a White Hawk was again seen checking out the Lineated Woodpeckers' nest, but it was good to see that the woodpeckers weren't giving up.

After a light breakfast, we left Tiskita this morning, the first of our three flights leaving at 6.45 a.m.  There is no doubt that several of us would have been happy to stay longer!

At Pavas we were met again by Simon Ellis and by our new driver, Santiago, a veteran of countless birding tours.  By 9.00 a.m. we were on our way, heading for Hacienda Solimar and due to be there by lunchtime.

Rufous Motmot Photo: S C Brown

Our first stop on the way was at a dam that we looked down on from the roadside high above.  There was a good selection of water birds here including about 10 Least Grebes, 30 Blue-winged Teal, Great Egret, Little Blue Heron, Green Heron, Spotted Sandpiper, Anhinga and Northern Jacanas.  As we pulled way from here, from the bus we saw our first Blue-crowned Motmot in a roadside tree.
Our next stop seemed a most unlikely place to find any birds – a small park in the centre of the town of Orotina.  Here we quickly found a Two-toed Sloth and realised that this was no ordinary park!  The main attractions here, however, are the Black-and-white Owls and the local people using the park are always ready to point them out.  On this occasion there were two, one of which was eating what appeared to be a Feral Pigeon.  If these owls were expected, a pair of Ferruginous Pygmy-Owls in a tree only a few yards away was a complete surprise.

There was only one more planned stop before we reached Solimar – at Caldera for restrooms and here a Whimbrel was the only bird on the shore.  We did though stop for one or two birds seen along the roadside, notably White-throated Magpie-Jays and a Turquoise-browed Motmot.

Once at Solimar birding began more or less immediately with Streak-backed Oriole, Lineated Woodpecker and Hoffman's Woodpecker seen in the trees just outside the house. Groove-billed Anis were numerous and there were several Black Iguanas.

After lunch and a short break, we set off in the bus with local guide, Demetrio, to the nearby Estero Madrigal, a small wetland that always produces impressive numbers of birds. We stayed until the light began to fade, by which time we had counted around 250 Great Egrets, 100 or more Cattle Egrets and 30+ Snail Kites arriving to roost for the night.  They were still coming in when we left and final numbers will undoubtedly have been higher. Other highlights here included 15+ Bare-throated Tiger-Herons, 20+ Black-crowned Night-Herons, at least one pair of Boat-billed Herons, a few Little Blue and Great Blue Herons and Snowy Egrets, Wood Storks, Northern Jacanas, Green Herons, Roseate Spoonbill, Limpkins, Ringed Kingfisher and Purple Gallinule; and away from the water: a superbly camouflaged Pauraque roosting on the ground, Yellow-naped and White-fronted Parrots, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Plain-breasted Ground-Dove, Northern Bearded Tyrannulet, Brown-crested Flycatcher and Lesser Nighthawk.  We also saw our first American Crocodiles and White-nosed Coatis.  All in all it was an excellent afternoon and early evening.

Pre-breakfast, in the trees outside the lodge, the Hoffman's Woodpeckers and Streak-backed Oriole were joined by Rose-throated Becard and White-throated Magpie-Jays.

Later, when we set off for the morning's birding, we had travelled only a short distance when Demetrio asked Santiago to stop the bus and we all got out to see first one, then two and eventually five Pacific Screech-Owls, all together in the same tree, presumably a pair with three well-grown young.  Only a few minutes later we had left the road and were driving across a field, heading for a lagoon on the adjacent property, Hacienda San Joaquin de Aberangeres.  A Double-striped Thick-knee could hardly be bothered to move as we went by.

Before we could see the lagoon there was a walk of about 20 minutes through woodland, but eventually we reached a spot that gave us a reasonable view of the water and provided some shade - it was only 8.30 a.m. but the temperature must by now have been over 80°F.

It was an amazing sight - simply thousands of birds, including around 2000 Black-bellied Whistling Ducks and almost 300 Wood Storks.  The star birds were probably the seven Jabirus, but 15 or more Roseate Spoonbills provided a splash of colour and there were 50+ Black-necked Stilts, Limpkins, Snail Kites, Snowy, Cattle and Great Egrets, White Ibises, Anhingas, Northern Jacanas, Great Blue Heron, a single Glossy Ibis and a Bare-throated Tiger-Heron.  It would have been easy to spend the day watching this wonderful assortment of birds, but eventually we headed back towards the bus.  On the way, Demetrio impressed us all with his impersonation of a Collared Forest-Falcon that resulted in a bird arriving and settling in branches high above our heads.  Hardly had we moved on from this bird when we flushed a Spectacled Owl, which flew only a short distance before finding another perch and allowing us excellent 'scope views.  Also along this woodland trail we found Black-headed Trogon, Olive Sparrow, Streak-headed Woodcreeper and what was almost certainly a Red Turtle, thought at the time to be a tortoise.
Before returning to the bus we walked a short way along the woodland edge and saw Tropical Pewee, Spot-breasted Oriole, Streak-backed Oriole, Rose-throated Becard, Black-crowned Tityra and Bronzed Cowbird. Four Jabirus were seen soaring, but it was impossible to say whether or not they were additional to the ones seen earlier.

After lunch back at the lodge and a short break during the hottest part of the day, we set off at 3.00 p.m. to spend a couple of hours at the salinas at Colorado.  There was a threat of rain while we were there, but not enough to distract us from some excellent birding. Shorebird enthusiasts were in their element, sorting through Spotted, Stilt, Western, Least and Semipalmated Sandpipers, Long-billed Dowitchers, Willets, Whimbrels, Grey, Wilson's and Semipalmated Plovers and Lesser Yellowlegs and there was just one Marbled Godwit.  Also seen were Tricoloured Heron, Little Blue Heron, White Ibis, Royal and Gull-billed Terns, Laughing Gulls, Scissor-tailed Flycatcher, Yellow-headed Caracara, Black-striped Sparrows, Mangrove Swallow, Yellow Warbler and Mangrove Warbler.

An early breakfast enabled us to leave Hacienda Solimar at about 5.00 a.m. for the drive to Carara Biological Reserve, where we enjoyed an excellent morning.

Carara, located at the mouth of the Rio Tarcoles and covering an area of 4700 hectares, is the northern-most tropical wet forest on the Pacific coast.  It is probably best known for its Scarlet Macaws and we had very good views of quite a number of these wonderfully colourful birds, some high in the trees and others flying over in pairs, seemingly always in conversation with each other.  The morning's other highlights included: Barred Forest-Falcon, Grey-chested Dove, Squirrel Cuckoo, Long-tailed Hermit, Scaly-breasted Hummingbird, four or five Baird's Trogons, Slaty-tailed, Black-headed and a brief look at a Violaceous Trogon, Pale-billed Woodpecker (heard), Dot-winged Antwren, Dusky Antbird, Cinnamon Becard, Orange-collared Manakin, Acadian Flycatcher, Royal Flycatcher with a nest, Yellow-olive Flycatcher, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Northern Bentbill, Greenish Elaenia, Rufous-breasted Wren, Tropical Gnatcatcher and Long-billed Gnatwren.

We took our picnic lunch down to the estuary of the Rio Tarcoles.  The tide was low and most of the birds quite distant, but shorebirds included Grey and Semipalmated Plovers, Whimbrel, Willet, Ruddy Turnstone and Least Sandpiper.  There were about 20 Royal Terns, more than 100 Brown Pelicans and numerous Magnificent Frigatebirds, but just one each of Roseate Spoonbill, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron and Reddish Egret.  An Osprey was perched in a tree across the river and several Mangrove Swallows were hawking insects from over the water.

After we had eaten, we walked a short distance to the edge of the mangroves that fringe the estuary and here quickly found Mangrove Warbler, Yellow-throated Vireo, Prothonotary Warbler and Panama Flycatcher.

The afternoon was spent walking another forest trail in the Carara Biological Reserve.  At this time of day birds were much less active, but species seen included Blue-black Grassquit, Northern Waterthrush, Green and Ringed Kingfishers, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Orange-billed Sparrow, Chestnut-backed Antbird, White-whiskered Puffbird, White-tipped Dove on a nest, Grey-headed Tanagers and Piratic Flycatcher.
Before heading back to Solimar, we stopped at the main road bridge over the Rio Tarcoles, where we looked down on about 20 American Crocodiles, Spotted Sandpiper, Semipalmated Plover and Black-necked Stilt and several Northern Rough-winged Swallows.

We spent the morning with Demetrio in an area of gallery forest only a short distance from Hacienda Solimar.  On the way there we stopped to see White-fronted Parrots, Grey Hawk and Roadside Hawk and a soaring Hook-billed Kite.  We also had quite good 'scope views of Lesser Ground-Cuckoo.
As we entered the forest we quickly found Black-striped Sparrows and then two quite obliging Spectacled Owls.  In contrast, a Thicket Tinamou flew up some distance away, giving little more than a frustrating glimpse.  Other species seen as we walked the trail alongside the dry river bed were: Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, a superb male Painted Bunting, a pair of Barred Antshrikes, Long-billed Gnatwren, Scrub Euphonia, Greenish Elaenia, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Cinnamon Hummingbird and Brown-crested Flycatcher.  There were also Mantled Howler Monkeys here.

As we drove back for lunch, we made a diversion to look for Spotted-bellied Bobwhites and soon found ten or more scurrying off into cover.  As we watched these to the left of the bus, a Lesser Ground-Cuckoo appeared on the other side, much nearer than earlier.  We also saw two more Double-striped Thick-knees.

We left Solimar at about 1.00 p.m. for the short, but rather tortuous journey to Monteverde. There were few stops on the way and the normally spectacular views were often concealed by low cloud.
After checking in to the very comfortable Hotel de Montaña, we set off to explore the grounds, making a circuit of the woodland and lake.  This walk produced Yellow-throated Brush-Finch, Yellow-faced Grassquit, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-eared Ground-Sparrow, Brown Jay, Green Heron, Black-throated Green Warbler, Red-billed Pigeon and Keel-billed Toucan. We also saw our first Leaf-cutter Ants with their enormous nest and an Agouti.

After an early breakfast, we set off from Hotel de Montaña to drive the short distance to the Monteverde Rainforest Reserve.  We were joined this morning by local guide, Melvin Leitón and on the way he made sure to look carefully from the bus at a spot where Sunbitterns are sometimes see. We were lucky - there were actually two Sunbitterns along the river and in no time we were out on the bridge looking down on them.  There was also a Mountain Elaenia here.

When we stopped again further along the road, we heard for the first time the distant call of a Three-wattled Bellbird and later we spent quite some time looking for these birds.  Now, however, we were intent on getting into the reserve ahead of the many people who were milling around by the entrance.  This is probably the best known and most visited of all Costa Rica's wildlife reserves, but visitor numbers are regulated so that it seldom seems over-crowded.

We walked the wide main trail through the most wonderful rainforest with ferns, epiphytes, vines and an amazing diversity of trees and, of course, plenty of birds.  These included Yellowish Flycatcher, Green-crowned Brilliant, Slate-throated Redstart, Grey-throated Leaftosser, Spangle-cheeked Tanager, Prong-billed Barbets, Grey-breasted Wood-Wren and Black-faced Solitaires, many of which were nest-building, but most impressive were the Black Guans and we heard the loud crackling rattle made with their wings as they were gliding between trees.

Green-crowned Brilliant Photo: Peter Dedicoat

We took our picnic to the nearby Hummingbird Gallery and enjoyed the spectacle of Violet Sabrewing, Magenta-throated Woodstar, Purple-throated Mountain-gem, Green Hermit, Green-crowned Brilliant, Coppery-headed Emerald, Green Violet-ear and Stripe-tailed Hummingbird, Bananaquits and Common Bush-Tanagers all coming to feeders only a few feet away.  It enabled us to properly get to grips with the identification of these birds and provided a wonderful opportunity for the photographers amongst us.
After lunch Melvin took us to see a pair of Resplendent Quetzals that were establishing a breeding territory nearby.  This was just a short walk from the Hummingbird Gallery. On the way there we spent several minutes looking at a remarkably well camouflaged Praying Mantis that was hard to distinguish from the moss on which it was resting. We also saw a White-throated Robin nearby.

Now it was time to search for Three-wattled Bellbirds and we took the bus back along the 'main road' towards the area where we had heard one earlier.  On the way we saw another pair of Resplendent Quetzals and another nesting Grey-throated Leaftosser.  Melvin was very determined and we spent quite some time standing by the roadside scanning the distant treetops.  Once again we could hear a Bellbird and eventually we were successful in locating the source of the loud 'BONK' call and had quite good 'scope views of the bird. Three Swallow-tailed Kites flew through and there were a number of Band-tailed Pigeons in the same area.

We drove on a short way before stopping again, this time by a figus tree that was covered in fruit and full of birds.  In particular there were perhaps a dozen or more Golden-browed Chlorophonias and now we could really appreciate their wonderful colours.  Also feeding were Mountain Robins, Yellow-throated Euphonia and Emerald Toucanet.

We spent the rest of the afternoon in the vicinity of (and within smelling distance!) of a pig farm.  We walked down what someone once described as being 'like a country lane in Devon' and birds seen included Red-billed Pigeon, two Rufous-browed Peppershrikes, Blue-crowned Motmot, Wilson's Warbler, White-fronted Parrot, House Wren and Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher.  We also saw two Grey Foxes here.

After another early breakfast, we set off at 6.30 a.m. to spend the morning at the Santa Elena Cloudforest Reserve.  Once again Melvin was with us and we took his advice not to go into the reserve, but instead to walk a wider, more open trail that skirts the reserve boundary.  We got off to a good start with two Black Guans in trees next to the car park and a few minutes later there were two more.  As we made our way down the increasingly steep trail some of us started to think about the effort that would be required to come back up, but we were kept going by a good list of birds – Lineated Foliage-gleaner, Collared and Slate-throated Redstarts, Golden-winged Warbler, Red-faced Spinetail, Golden-browed Chlorophonias, Three-striped Warblers, Barred Becard - and the promise of a view, from the bottom of the trail, of the Arenal volcano.  Finding that the volcano was completely hidden by cloud came as a disappointment, but not as a total surprise!

Collared Redstart Photo: S C Brown

After a brief visit to the Visitor Centre and its shop, we set off walking back along the road we had driven along earlier.  Unfortunately there was little to see other than a Swallow-tailed Kite and so we decided to head back to Monteverde for an early lunch.

By 2.00 p.m. we were ready to go out again.  The Ecological Farm or Finca Ecológica is a privately owned reserve only a few minutes from our hotel and it is always worth a visit.  After only a few minutes we heard a Three-wattled Bellbird calling close by and Melvin quickly set off to find it.  As is so often the case with these birds, this one proved to be further away than he first thought and when it was eventually located, it was actually in a tree on a neighbouring property and out of sight.  Other than this, the afternoon's highlights included Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, White-eared Ground-Sparrow, Grey-headed Chachalaca, Long-tailed Manakin, Golden-crowned Warbler and a female Three-wattled Bellbird, plus Agouti, White-nosed Coatis and a Mexican Hairy Porcupine.

We finished the day with another walk round the wood and the lake in the grounds of the Hotel de Montaña.  This produced Green Heron, Keel-billed Toucans and Brown Jays, but it was generally pretty quiet.

We left Monteverde at 7.15 a.m. and spent most of the day travelling to Selva Verde Lodge. It was another bright, sunny day.  We covered the first 40-km from Monteverde to Tilarán on a road that if anything was rougher than the one we travelled up on Friday.  From there on the road improved, although there were still stretches where the tarmac ran out or was pitted with holes.  Our route took us around Lake Arenal and past the Arenal volcano.  For once this famous Costa Rican landmark was free of cloud and we had wonderful views. When we stopped for lunch near the Tavacon Resort we even got to see some volcanic activity with smoke pouring from the top of the mountain, accompanied by thunderous rumbling.  Highlights among the birds seen during the journey were three or four Grey-headed Chachalacas seen much better than previously, a Grey-crowned Yellowthroat, our first Passerini's Tanager, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Crested Guan, Long-tailed Tyrant, Grey Hawk and a Northern Jacana with young.

We arrived at Selva Verde Lodge at 3.30 p.m. and within half an hour we set out to explore the grounds. From the suspension bridge, we saw Sunbittern, Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Amazon Kingfisher, Spotted Sandpiper, Northern Waterthrush and Neotropical Otter.

Selva Verde Lodge is situated in 200 hectares of primary and secondary lowland tropical forest alongside the Rio Sarapiquí. We met up at 6.00 a.m. for a pre-breakfast session and spent the whole day walking trails through this area with local guide, Erick.

The morning was spent mainly in the butterfly garden and forest across the road from the main lodge and then after lunch we walked along the main road, before taking a track that crosses the river into an area of mixed farming - cattle on one side, crops on the other.

It was an excellent day's birding which produced the following species not seen previously on the tour: Double-toothed Kite, Semiplumbeous Hawk, Short-tailed Hawk, Peregrine Falcon, Brown-hooded Parrot, White-crowned Parrot, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, White-winged Becard, White-collared Manakin, White-ringed Flycatcher, Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Yellow Tyrannulet, Bay Wren, Lesser Greenlet, Bay-breasted Warbler, Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Olive-backed Euphonia, Red-throated Ant-Tanager, Blue-black Grosbeak and Lesser (Thick-billed) Seed-Finch.  Other highlights included not only a Sunbittern, but also its nest with four eggs clearly visible from some distance; also Boat-billed Herons and the Caribbean race of Variable Seedeater.

As well as the many birds, we enjoyed also seeing Spectacled Caiman, Emerald Basilisk, Red-tailed and Variegated Squirrels and Black River Turtle.

Breakfast was at 5.30 a.m. this morning and half an hour later we set off for La Virgen del Socorro, an area of middle elevation Caribbean rainforest.  We arrived at 6.45 a.m. to find that this normally tranquil valley was a hive of activity and that in parts it resembled a construction site!  It appears that electricity and other services were being brought in for the local community and that improvements were also being made to drainage along the road.
There were all sorts of plant and machinery along the road, but in spite of all this we set off to walk down to the bridge at the bottom that crosses the Rio Sarapiquí.  Although there was some noise from vehicles, all the disturbance didn't seem to be having any significant impact on the birds and in three hours we recorded a good list of species - and, for once, it wasn't necessary to be looking high into the canopy to see them!  From near the bridge we walked a short way along a trail that runs parallel to the river, until the going became difficult and the way was blocked by a large fallen tree.

As we began our walk back up the steep road, we were pleased to see that Santiago was bringing the bus part way down to meet us.  Highlights were: Blue-and gold, Emerald, Crimson-collared, Bay-headed and Silver-throated Tanagers, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Blackburnian Warbler, Red-faced Spinetail, Spotted Woodcreeper, American Dipper, Torrent Tyrannulet, Yellow-olive and Tufted Flycatchers, Green Thorntail, Brown Violet-ear, Lattice-tailed Trogon, Barred Hawk, six American Swallow-tailed Kites, Broad-winged Hawk, Slate-throated Redstart and three male Rose-breasted Grosbeaks.

From here we drove to Mirador Catarata, otherwise known as Vera's Café, where the feeders attract a remarkable variety of hummingbirds.  In fact we saw as many as 12 species here, including Black-bellied Hummingbird and White-bellied Mountain-Gem, that were seen nowhere else on the tour.  Also seen, as we looked out towards the La Paz waterfall, were White-collared Swifts, House Wren, Black-and-white Warbler and Silver-throated Tanager.  A tarantula here also proved to be quite an attraction.
We returned to Selva Verde Lodge for lunch and a siesta. During the time there Emerald Basilisks, Green-and-black and Strawberry Poison Dart Frogs were found.  When we went out again at about 3.30 p.m., we drove for about half an hour and then simply stood for almost two hours at the edge of a marshy field. Here we saw Nicaraguan (Pink-billed) Seed-Finch, Striped Cuckoo, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Red-breasted Blackbird, Red-winged Blackbird, Grey-rumped Swift, Pale-vented Pigeon, Purple Gallinule, Common Tody-Flycatcher and Grey-breasted Martin amongst many others.  Although the light was fading when we left, some of us would have been happy to stay longer.

The day was devoted to a visit to La Selva Biological Station, situated only about 20 minutes drive from Selva Verde Lodge.  La Selva is a protected area of almost 1600 hectares of premontane wet tropical rainforest and home to a biological research station run by the Organisation of Tropical Studies.  We were there just after 6.00 a.m. and straightaway headed off across the suspension bridge to walk trails through mainly secondary forest.  For several years when he was employed as a guide here, this was Erick's 'office' and we couldn't have had a better guide.  Not only did he find one bird after another, but also patiently answered our many questions about plants and other wildlife.

Highlights of the morning were: Fasciated Antshrike, Banded-backed Wren, Plain-brown and Wedge-billed Woodcreepers, Crested Guan, Bright-rumped Attila (barely visible on a nest), Collared Aracari, Common Potoo, Collared Peccaries, three Snowy Cotingas, two Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrants, a pair of Grey-headed Kites, Slaty-breasted Tinamou (heard), a Grey-necked Wood-Rail and a beautiful Agami Heron sharing not much more than a puddle of remaining water, Purple-throated Fruitcrow on a nest, Little Hermit, two Laughing Falcons (one eating a Boa Constrictor), Chestnut-coloured Woodpecker, Black-cowled Oriole, 18 unidentified bats roosting, Slaty-tailed Trogon, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Cinnamon Becard, Southern Rough-winged Swallows, Blue-chested and Violet-headed Hummingbirds.  There was also a brief sighting of what Erick thought could only have been an Ocelot.

We had lunch back at Selva Verde Lodge, but returned to La Selva at about 3.00 p.m.  Bird activity was now much reduced, but we saw several new species, notably Eastern Kingbird, Broad-billed Motmot, two Pied Puffbirds, Great Curassow and Bat Falcon.  One member of our group also had a brief view of a Short-tailed Nighthawk as we were walking to our bus.

Later, as we returned to our rooms after dinner, a Nine-banded Armadillo was seen.

We left Selva Verde Lodge just before 8.00 p.m. for the journey to the airport for our flight home via Houston.  On the way to San José we called in briefly at Vera's Café, where we saw very much the same selection of hummingbirds that were there on Wednesday.  We also spent some time along the road by the La Paz waterfall and we stopped a little further on, above the waterfall and within sight of the Poás Volcano, where we saw Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher and Wilson's Warbler and heard Prong-billed Barbet. 
We arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare before our 2.00 p.m. departure.  In Houston, we had just an hour to deal with Immigration and Customs and security searches, but we made it to our onward flight and arrived safely at Gatwick on Saturday morning.

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