Finland and Norway Tour Report, 5th to 17th June

The flights from London to Helsinki and on to Oulu went smoothly.  As we walked from the International to Domestic Terminals at Helsinki we saw a Whitethroat and while we were waiting for the Oulu flight, Fieldfares were much in evidence.

At Oulu we were met by Ulla Peltomaki who took us to our hotel and then out for some local(ish) birding.  Near Temmes we visited a small wood where Tengmalm's Owls were making use of a nest box.  The female owl peered out at the assembled birders before resuming her duties.

Near the Finnature office we were entertained by a calling Corncrake, and one or two of the group managed tantalisingly brief views of it.

Later we met up with two other groups (to minimise disturbance) to try for views of Ural Owls.  As we gathered a Woodcock flew past on its roding flight and a Great Spotted Woodpecker was calling nearby.  A male Hen Harrier drifted past carrying prey presumably for young, or a nesting female not far away.  The Ural Owl young had left the nest but one was soon found and eventually both adult birds were also seen nearby.

Ural Owl Photo: S C Brown

After a traditional meal near Liminka we were driven back to the hotel.  Before finally dropping us off, our Finnature guide drove us the short distance to the shore where we saw just one Whooper Swan but plenty of ducks, including Red-breasted Merganser, Goldeneyes and a pair of Garganey.

We left the hotel at about 8.15 a.m. and set off for our first full day’s birding in the Oulu area.  Our first stop was to search a piece of shoreline on an Oulu island for Terek Sandpiper, which sadly eluded us.  However many other good things were seen here including Whooper Swans, Greylag Geese, all three sawbill species, Marsh Harrier, Curlew, Oystercatcher, Ringed Plover and Redshank.  Best of all at this site were three species of terns: Arctic, Little and at least three Caspians.

Still within Oulu, we visited another site which at first glimpse seemed like a piece of rough, wet grassland - in fact that's all it really was.  However, the birds here were a stark reminder of  ‘times past' in Britain.  Snipe, Redshanks and Lapwings seemed to be everywhere; Sedge Warblers sang from the bushes and Reed Buntings from the reeds.  Whinchats were also present and Corn Buntings sang from posts and bushes.

An even rougher looking piece of stony land next to an industrial building site also proved well worth a visit.  Arctic Terns were settling in the area - some, perhaps, already nesting.  Temminck's Stint gave their lovely trilling song flight while a lone Turnstone wandered around somewhat aimlessly.  There were also a few Ringed Plovers and Little Ringed Plovers present giving good opportunities to compare the differences between the two species.

From here we went to the Liminginlahti area and began birding at the northern end.  A boardwalk led to a tower, which overlooked the bay and some wet coastal grassland.  Ducks were present in small numbers and included Teal, Wigeon, Shoveler and a couple of male Pintails.  A Bittern boomed from a nearby reedbed over which a male Marsh Harrier hunted on stiffly held wings.

After a hearty lunch at the Liminginlahti Nature Centre, another boardwalk led to tower hide overlooking the bay.  Better views of Garganey were enjoyed as were Black-tailed Godwits in their fine brick-red summer plumage.  Ruffs were seen lekking briefly and far out on the marshes, the top halves of two Bean Geese were just visible above the longer grasses.  Most frustrating of all, another Corncrake was calling occasionally from short, wet grassland near the tower hide.  Despite the sparseness of the vegetation and our elevated viewpoint, it remained as elusive as the same species yesterday.  As we took the boardwalk back towards the Centre, a Scarlet Rosefinch was singing from one of the bushes and gave everyone excellent views.

Ruff Photo: S C Brown

A further drive to woodland near Siikajoki led to a pleasant walk along dry woodland tracks (despite recent rain).  A gaze between appropriate pine trees revealed a huge nest, formerly built and occupied by Goshawks.  Sitting proudly on this nest was a superb Great Grey Owl.  A pair of glaring yellow eyes peered back at us and soon a chick peered out from beneath its mother and entertained us for a while.  Eventually, mosquitoes become quite bothersome and we left.  Despite a couple of stops on the return journey, no further species of real interest were located that day.

Today was our first day with Tony Eskelin who was to be our guide for the remainder of the tour.  Our first destination was a piece of coniferous woodland near Kiiminki.  Spotted Flycatchers and a fine male Brambling entertained us whilst we waited for the 'main event' at this site.

Telescopes and binoculars were trained on a hole in a birch tree and soon, a male Three-toed Woodpecker arrived and gave a soft call.  Immediately, the female appeared from inside the hole and dashed off before we could get a look at her.  The male was no more obliging as it promptly disappeared into the hole!  A short while later, he emerged from the nest and rather than flying off to left or right, he flew directly towards us.  One of the taller members of the group nearly ended up with a new parting in his hair - which is how close he came to us!  We stayed here for a good while longer enjoying not only the woodpeckers but also the sounds of a Greenshank in song flight nearby.  As we drove away from this site, a pair of Red-breasted Mergansers was seen on a small lake.

At another location near Kiiminki, we walked to a nesting box occupied by a pair of Pygmy Owls but due to the time of day, neither adult put in an appearance.

To the north of Oulu we visited a site where Terek Sandpipers are known to nest.  Again the target bird eluded us, but Arctic Terns, Ringed and Little Ringed Plovers, Oystercatchers and Temminck's Stints were all well seen.  After lunch we spent time in the Liminka area including a visit to another part of the Liminginlahti reserve.  What looked to be little more than a flooded field turned out to be a superb wetland area for waders.  Wood Sandpipers hid among the shortest of vegetation, while Lapwings and Black-tailed Godwits flew overhead giving alarm calls suggesting they were breeding nearby.  Marsh Harriers drifted effortlessly over reed beds bringing a temporary silence to the singing Sedge Warblers and Reed Buntings.  We lingered at this super place but time was pressing and we had other stops to make.

Alongside a dirt road we stopped at a place which looked no different to the rest of the road we had travelled.  However just a few yards away, an Ortolan Bunting was singing in a tree and everyone had excellent views.  A little further along the same road another stop was made and the target bird duly obliged – a Corncrake was well seen by everyone and this more than made up for the species elusiveness on the previous two days.  Returning towards the tarred road we stopped at a small woodland.  Here a Long-eared Owl was the star attraction - the attentions of the mosquitoes were less welcome!

After the evening meal, some of the group went out for more birding.  Some miles from Oulu we were taken to another woodland.  It was rather wet underfoot (!!) but we made it through to a place where a pair of Pygmy Owls was known to be using a nest box.  Calling nearby indicated the presence of an adult owl, but it was some considerable time before we got to see it.  The wait was interspersed with mosquito catching (plenty present!) and occasional roding song flights by a Woodcock.  After we all had good views of the female owl, we peered into the nest box to see nine well-feathered young (a few days from fledging).  The sound they made at each successive viewer resembled loud, popping popcorn – an interesting sound to say the least.

One more location was to be visited before we returned to the hotel.  To the north of Oulu we were driven into an old sand/gravel quarry.  This had recently been landscaped yet it still looked very bare.  Young trees planted in the area made very little difference to the barren look, but in time a forest will make the area useless for what we were about to see.  Eleven lekking male Black Grouse were assembled in an area about 200 yards from our viewpoint. Their 'bubbling' and 'sneezing' calls were clearly audible and as they fanned their tails in full display, it became apparent that a twelfth bird in their midst was a displaying Capercaillie.  It was rather strange to learn that this bird was so 'lonely' that he sought the 'company' of Black Grouse.  The surrounding pine forests had been improved (as far as timber production was concerned) and this was very much to the detriment of the breeding Capercaillie population.  Suddenly the Capercaillie seemed to become more aggressive and drove the Black Grouse away thus leaving him in sole possession of the display ground.  We decided to leave him to it, reaching our hotel about midnight.

Today we were to transfer to Kuusamo.  Rain greeted us as we set out and it increased in intensity as we drove through the outskirts of Oulu.  Toni took us to a lake close to the town where we were able to birdwatch from inside the minibus.  Great Crested Grebes swam and dived not too far out, Tufted Ducks and Goldeneyes busied themselves in search of food and overhead, Arctic Terns continued to fly around despite the rain.  As the rain eased to a mere downpour (!) we could see a Whooper Swan which added a little grace to the area.  A pair of Smew took off and disappeared over the trees and some Red-breasted Mergansers drifted past before we set off on the journey.

Near Jolaskyia, we took some time to visit another lake.  A tower hide overlooked the area and from here, a number of birds were visible.  Arctic Terns flew around searching for insects, their grace and beauty rivalled by Little Gulls whose dark underwings were clearly visible.  Swallows and Sand Martins were also trying their best to deplete insect numbers but was it our imagination or were they really leaving the mosquitoes alone?!

Common Snipe were displaying while Curlews added to the magic of the location as their haunting calls drifted across on the breeze.  A nearby Cuckoo added its voice to the atmosphere and across the road, the repetitive yet tuneful song of a Scarlet Rosefinch could be heard.

Our search for new birds continued until eventually, far out across the marsh a pair of Slavonian Grebes was sighted.  Unfortunately they were busy nest building just beyond a reedy island.  Most of their activity was hidden from view, but every now and then, one bird would swim out, collect a beakful of nesting material and return to the reedy edge.  The top half of the other bird could then be seen working this new vegetation into the actual nest.

Whilst we watched this lake, the rain eased to a mere drizzle, but as we set off on our journey, the heavens opened again and birding was impossible.

We had lunch in Pudasjarvi and then completed our journey to Kuusamo with little further of note (except more rain), but a few kilometres before the town, we turned off to view a great location for birds - the Kuusamo rubbish tip!  A host of Ravens and a number of Hooded Crows vied for attention with Wood Sandpipers and Ringed Plovers on a small pond and also various gulls on the tip itself.

By the end of the evening meal, the weather had improved considerably and an evening walk along the shore of the adjacent lake seemed worthwhile.  Whooper Swans were seen and a couple of plovers along the shore were worthy of note.  There was a Little Ringed Plover which was ringed and a Ringed Plover which was not.

What a difference the sun makes!  Today we awoke to glorious sunshine and after breakfast, we drove to a nearby lake, south of Kuusamo.  A Black-throated Diver was the first bird to draw our attention and this was quickly followed by the main reason for visiting this location - a Red-necked Grebe.  The pleasant song of a Rustic Bunting cascaded from a superb male at the top of a lakeside pine, but all too soon it flew to some scrub and was not seen again.  A short drive later and we were soon watching Little Bunting and while here, we saw a couple of Willow Tits and a group of a dozen or so Crossbills flew over calling.

We drove to the north of Kuusamo and paused for a while to see a pair of Siberian Tits taking food to young in a nest box.  Pied Flycatcher and Redstart sang nearby and Siskins were often about.  A small lake attracted a number of birds including Little Gulls, Greenshank and our first Whimbrel of the trip.

On our way towards Rukantunturi, we stopped off at another lake where Whooper Swans and Goldeneyes were seen; the grace of the swans contrasted with the 'hustle and bustle' of the diving ducks.  As we walked up a track, a Common Sandpiper flew from her nest of four eggs and gave a convincing broken wing display. Another Siberian Tit was feeding amongst the pines. Further up the hill, we reached a point that overlooked a gorge.  Here the telescopes were trained on a spot where a female Eagle Owl rested close to her two chicks.  At the high point of the road near Rukantunturi a Siberian Jay made a brief appearance but was obviously well fed by other birders who were also picnicking in the area; it did not return while we were there.

As we travelled on to our next destination, a brief pause to look over a lake produced four Bean Geese.  Further on we paused to search for dippers.  White Wagtails and Sand Martins were taking insects along the river and then we found a true Finnish rarity for the area - a Grey Wagtail.  Whilst we admired two Dippers (of the Continental Black-bellied form) our Finnature guide was keen to watch the Grey Wagtail which he immediately broadcast on the local 'Birdline'.

At a lake further on, a couple of Velvet Scoters and a male Smew were amongst the birds seen. A continuous, loud whine from a huge swarm of insects sounded very threatening but we were assured that the insects (in this case!) were of the non-biting variety.

After more searching for birds we returned to the hotel for a rest before the evening meal. Later, we enjoyed a superb and all too brief slide show of local landscapes and wildlife by a local photographer - an excellent end to the day.

We set out at 5.00 a.m. for an early morning 'grouse drive' through forests to the east of Kuusamo.  Not long after entering the woodlands, a male Black Grouse was well seen before it flew off into the trees and was lost to view.  Further on, a couple of Crossbills flew up from the track as we rounded a bend, but they quickly disappeared and were not seen again.  Occasional Reindeer and Arctic/Mountain Hares were seen but pride of place in the mammal line went to the two male Elk which paused for some while before lumbering off into the trees.  There were other occasional glimpses of female Black Grouse and Capercaillie but not everyone saw these.  We returned to the hotel for a 7.00 a.m. breakfast after which we set out for another days birding.

Our journey to Rukantunturi was via some quiet mountain tracks where we saw a few interesting species but on arrival at the parking area, three Siberian Jays were being fed by other birders.  We paused here for some time to enjoy close views of these delightful and confiding birds.

This set us in good stead for our walk up the nearby mountain.  Siskins and Pied Flycatchers sang to accompany our journey and the higher we went the grander the view that unfolded around us.  Eventually we reached an appropriate place to take a rest amongst the superb ancient pine forest while our guide sought our target bird.  On his return we were taken to a spot from where we had distant but satisfying views of a Red-flanked Bluetail.  Further glimpses proved how elusive this species can be.  We then set off for the walk back to the mini-bus.

Soon we were having lunch at the Oulanka National Park Centre after which we were taken to a lake where a dozen or so Velvet Scoters were watched sailing majestically past five male and two female Smews.  A Wood Sandpiper was exceptionally confiding as we stood on a small jetty from which a Common Sandpiper had flown on our arrival.  A couple of distant Waxwings, complete with prominent crests, encouraged us to visit the far end of the lake in search of woodland species.  A Great Spotted Woodpecker flew past calling and then, in the broad valley in front of us, a Wryneck began its distinctive song.  After some considerable search, it was found in the top of a twiggy, dead tree and then it flew towards us landing near the top of a small pine - we now enjoyed excellent views!

Despite our early start, it seemed we had to leave this idyllic setting all to soon and head back to the hotel for a rest before the evening meal.

Today, we left Kuusamo at 8.00 a.m. to head off for Ivalo well to the north.  As we crossed the Arctic Circle, we paused to indulge in the Finnish custom of a celebration drink (and who were we to refuse?!) before heading on for a stop at a broad marshy area a short distance off our main route.  Here we saw a distant Black-throated Diver sat on its nest while a Common Crane flew over calling.  Bramblings sang their monotonous songs from nearby trees and a Rough-legged Buzzard circled over some pines to the south.

Common Crane Photo: S C Brown

A side road out across the marsh gave us views of a Whooper Swan sat on a huge nest but just as we were leaving, a Black Woodpecker flew into some pines and after some searching we were treated to good views of this elusive bird.  We continued our journey and paused at a couple of places along the Kitinen River where it broadens into a series of lakes.  Raptors seen here included Goshawk and Osprey.

After a late lunch at Peurasuvanto we completed the journey to Ivalo, occasionally we had to be aware of Reindeer crossing the road and grazing along the verges.

Once we had checked in to the Hotel Ivalo, we were taken out to three sites by a local birder.  The first stop to the east of Ivalo was to visit a location for Hawk Owl.  The female sat calling from a pine while we enjoyed to the full a short encounter with this super bird. Just behind us, a Bluethroat sang its varied song, which confusingly included Waxwing calls! A nearby marsh was explored and four Bean Geese were on the edge of a distant pool.

Just along the bank from them, Ruffs lekked as a female strolled nonchalantly past.  Soon we were enjoying views of the two main species we were seeking here - Jack Snipe and Broad-billed Sandpiper.
On the return journey to Ivalo, we paused at some pools where Ruffs, Temminck's Stints and Wood Sandpipers were numerous - probably in excess of 50 of the latter species alone.

As we headed off to the road for Ivalo, a male Hen Harrier completed an exciting day's birding.

This was another travelling day, with the journey from Ivalo to Vadso on Norway's Varangar Peninsula.  Before we set off northwards, we took a brief trip to the pinewoods close to yesterday's marsh.  As we walked through the area the behaviour of a pair of Rough-legged Buzzards suggested they had a nest nearby.

Soon we were on the road heading for a new area - a new country even!  A brief stop at the viewpoint overlooking part of Lake Inari proved worthwhile, but apart from singing Bramblings and Willow Warblers, no birds were seen.

Further on we took a short detour towards Toivoniemi where birds were in short supply compared to previous visits.  A Wood Sandpiper flew up from the edge of the roadside while a little further on, 3 male Ruffs were lekking right on the edge of the road.  An Elk was feeding beside the river.
A couple of hours after leaving the hotel, we paused briefly at a 'roadside stop' where we were able to obtain excellent views of Greenfinches and Mealy Redpolls on some feeders.

Further stops along the way produced views of Black-throated Divers and Common Scoters on roadside lakes.

After lunch we crossed the border into Norway and drove to the north of Tana Bru to a site for Gyr Falcons.  Here the aerial skills and abilities of these birds were seen to good effect when first the male and later the female (a considerably larger bird) showed how they could ride the air currents along their nesting cliff.  After they had been perched high on rock ledges for some while, the female suddenly took off calling in alarm; the male immediately followed and as they powered their way along high above us, we became aware of the cause for their concern.  A White-tailed Eagle had drifted into their air space and provided a potential threat. Unfortunately all three birds disappeared over the cliff top before we could view an encounter.

The final birding of the day was at Hoyholmen.  Arctic Terns were numerous and their usual aggressive selves; Arctic Skuas were nesting too; Temminck's and Little Stints were mingling with Ringed Plovers and a Sanderling whilst a group of Oystercatchers, Bar-tailed Godwits and a few Knots formed a 'high tide roost'.  Eiders were a little way off shore and about 100 Goosanders were resting on a sandy island.

We then completed our journey to Vadso along the shores of the Varangar Fijord on which numerous Eiders, Goosanders and Gulls could be seen.

After donning winter clothes for the pre-breakfast walk (due to it being rather cool yesterday), we began to realise our mistake as we set foot outside the hotel.  To say it was warm and sunny would be an understatement.  We walked around Store Vodsoya where Arctic Terns and Common Gulls were breeding in abundance.  Temminck's Stints gave their trilling song flights and there were a couple of Arctic Hares nearby.  Red-throated Pipit and Arctic Redpolls were found amongst the dwarf willows and on the usual pond there were at least 40 Red-necked Phalaropes.  Ruffs lekked on some flatter ground while along the shoreline there were plenty of gulls including a constant procession of Kittiwakes.

Red-necked Phalarope Photo: S C Brown

After breakfast we began to drive and bird watch eastwards from Vadso.  At the far end of the harbour, a group of Common Eiders was checked and found to contain five male and two female Steller's Eiders.  Goosanders either loafed about on the weed-covered rocks or dived for food a short distance out on the sea.

Close to Hoyvik, our Finnature guide Toni spotted the huge dorsal fins of some Orcas (Killer Wales) far out on Varangar Fjord.  Despite the distance, everyone managed to see them and we estimated that there were perhaps eight of these magnificent creatures present.

For a short while, our concentration on the Orcas was broken when about a dozen Harbour Porpoises drifted past in the opposite direction (going east) fairly close to shore.

Thousands of Kittiwakes were feeding and whirling around in huge flocks and these were occasionally harried by Arctic Skuas.  After checking the beach on the way out to Store Ekkeroy and seeing a variety of waders, we visited the island's huge Kittiwake colony. The sight and sounds were almost overwhelming - not to mention the smell!  Here, Razorbill and Black Guillemot were added to the list.

During lunch we saw that a huge bank of mist was heading our way.  Soon we were enveloped in a cooling blanket of sea fog, which restricted our view considerably. Kittiwakes, which had been taking a short cut across land to their nesting colony, were now hugging all the contours of the coastline.  They appeared out of the mist, passed us and then faded into the distance.

In an effort to climb above the mist, we decided to head further along the coast and then off inland where higher ground might produce clearer views and new species.  Close to the road, smart Lapland Buntings could be seen.  Beside a gravel road near Krampness, Shore Larks were seen and a female was sitting on a roadside nest.  Further on, we went for a walk to try to find Willow Grouse, which could occasionally be heard some way off.

Unfortunately the sea mist was not the shallow 'bank' that we had hoped for and it was some time before we had even 'slight' views of a grouse as the mist cleared a fraction before thickening again.

The persisting and thickening mist brought us to the conclusion that further birding would be fairly useless so we headed back to the hotel in Vadso where we arrived at about 6.00 p.m. Despite the mist, we had added a fair quantity of new birds - and two superb
new mammal species to our lists.

We left the hotel in Vadso at 8.00 a.m. and drove towards Vardo.  A short way along, other birders were gull watching.  A pale gull amongst them caused some discussion but our Finnature guide, Toni Eskelin, is a keen 'gull watcher' and confirmed the identification as a Herring Gull/Glaucous Gull hybrid.

As we were a little short of time, we quickly headed for Vardo but an adult White-tailed Eagle stopped us in our tracks.  It flew from one shoreline perch to another and showed off its white tail and its huge wingspan to good advantage.

During the boat journey to Hornoya, plenty of auks and Eiders were seen.  On the island itself, we were greeted by a Brünnich's Guillemot that rested on weed covered rocks throughout our stay.
The sounds of Kittiwakes were everywhere as thousands nested on the cliffs.  Black Guillemots rested on wave-washed rocks and their common cousins were higher up the cliffs with Puffins and Razorbills.  There was a constant stream of all of these species flying to and from their nesting sites and the sea.

Puffins often flushed as one of the larger (Herring or Great Black-backed) gulls flew past. However some of these comical looking auks allowed a close enough approach for photography with a 20mm wide angle lens; it's a shame the weather was so misty.

There were also some recently fledged juvenile Ravens on the island.  One of them looked rather incongruous as it perched on a Kittiwake's nest and seemed to be wondering what to do next.  We left it to ponder its next move.

As we waited at the landing point, Brünnich's and Common Guillemots approached so closely that either camera or binoculars could hardly focus on them.

Once back in Vardo, we checked-in to the hotel, had lunch (with Common and Steller's Eiders just outside the hotel in the harbour) and then set off for some more birding.

On tundra near Indre Kiberg, we searched without success for Dotterels.  However, other waders present included Dunlins, Turnstones, Ringed and Golden Plovers.  Red-necked Phalaropes fed busily on one of the pools while a constant stream of gulls flew to a larger lake - still mostly frozen over - to bathe and preen.  Long-tailed Ducks dived in the same lake but kept their distance from the gulls.  Arctic and Long-tailed Skuas either rested on the tundra or patrolled the skies on the lookout for an easy meal.  Whenever they wandered into the Turnstones’ territory, these breeding waders were robust in the defence of their air space.

Long-tailed Skua Photo: S C Brown

As the coastal mist cleared, we drove to Komagven Bay to watch the various species gathering on the rising tide.  Common Eiders and Steller's Eiders flew past in opposite directions before settling on the sea. Long-tailed ducks were numerous and Goosanders drifted by in convoy.  A Red-throated Diver was well seen, a few Common Scoters were diving for food but a lone, female Scaup was elusive.

On the way back to Vardo, we drove up a hill to search for Snow Buntings.  A male flew past but too quickly for most of the group to see it.  Our final stop of the day was at Vardo to overlook the channel between the island and the mainland.  A flock of about 140 King Eiders contained just one adult male; the rest were juvenile males, in various stages of moult, and a few females.

Four male and two female Common Eiders plus two male Steller's Eiders were visible from the hotel windows before breakfast today.

Poor weather had settled in during our sleeping hours (or can we still call it 'night'?) and continued for most of the morning; sometimes light rain, sometimes it poured down.

A slow drive to Hamningberg was the plan today and we began just beyond the Vardo tunnel and on to the minor road northwards.

Golden Plovers piped alarm calls whilst we watched a mixed flock of Common and King Eiders on the sea. Goosanders were there in abundance and a Red-throated Pipit perched on top of a nearby shrub.  A few Wigeon and nine or ten Pintails flew up from a roadside ditch.  They circled round overhead giving good views to those of us brave enough to stand out and endure the rain.  Further on, small tundra pools and larger lakes held a good number of Red-throated Divers - nine on just one pond for instance.  A male Scaup swam and dived on another pond, which held two more divers.

Later, nine Bean Geese were grazing alongside another freshwater pool and again, there was a Red-throated Diver loafing about on the water.  Occasional Red-necked Phalaropes, Ruffs, Wood Sandpipers and other waders were seen and every bay held plenty of Common Eiders, Goosanders and Long-tailed Ducks - but sadly no White-billed Diver.

A small pod of Porpoises were seen swimming around towards Vardo and there was a constant passage of thousands of Kittiwakes.  Wherever food was surfacing, Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls and a few Gannets joined huge swirling flocks of these delightful gulls.  This was most evident at Hamningberg where we had lunch and watched the passage of gulls and a few auks, including some Black Guillemots, not far off shore.

Close to Hamningberg we saw a good number of Reindeer all growing new antlers in a covering of velvet. We drove a track out past some huts and across the tundra.  A male Bluethroat hopped on to the track and we all had good views of him.  We soon became aware that there was another bird present and this was his mate; she was busy nest building in a little hollow very close to some trackside bushes.

As we drove back towards Vardo, we constantly searched the sea for one of the special birds of the area but White-billed Diver eluded us.  We also took the road towards Vadso searching for the same species. There were plenty of the usual sea ducks and we also saw Arctic Redpoll and Shore Lark at one of these stops - but still no diver.

Heading back towards Vardo, we stopped to search for Snow Buntings.  Soon we were watching a pair feeding around the edges of a patch of snow.  A couple more males completed our bird watching for the day except for the Steller's and Common Eiders and an adult Glaucous Gull from the hotel window.

A dull start to the day both weather-wise and by a lack of Steller's Eider in the harbour by the hotel!
We left to begin our journey to Ivalo in Finland. Constant stops to search the sea paid off when Toni eventually found a White-billed Diver.  His thoroughness and persistence throughout his time with us yielded many extra species that would have otherwise been missed.  After everyone had obtained fair views of this special bird, a group of American birders arrived and whilst we were showing them the diver, a White-tailed Eagle flew up from the beach area.  It was mobbed by a large group of gulls including a Glaucous.  A pair of Bean Geese flew over before we set off on the next part of our journey.

We arrived at Nesseby and spent some time watching the Red-necked Phalaropes on the pool near the church.  Goosanders, Common Scoters, Common and about 20 Steller's Eiders were on the sea and nearby rocks while waders on the mud included Curlew, Bar-tailed Godwit, Turnstone, Redshank and Dunlin.  We also saw a Shelduck feeding in a tidal pool.

After lunch at Utsjoki, we were driven up a nearby hill to search for mountain top species. By now the weather had improved considerably and some of us were regretting donning the necessary thick clothing at the start of the day.  Some time later, a female Dotterel flew past calling and then landed not far away. This gave everyone ample opportunity to get good views of this relatively confiding species.

At one other brief stop on the journey, Pied Flycatcher, Redpoll and Brambling were all heard singing.

Journey home day today so after a late-ish breakfast (to allow for some packing time) we set out to visit a woodland 40 kilometres to the south of Ivalo.  Unfortunately, the instructions on how to find a specific Capercaillie's nest were not quite as accurate as we had hoped.  Despite attempts by our local Finnish guide to phone the photographer who had located the nest, he could not be reached and the nest was never found.  Our Finnature guide was as disappointed as the group members that the local guide had failed us on this occasion.  However Bramblings sang from the depths of the pine forest and the journeys each way were punctuated by stops to watch the large herds of Reindeer close to the roadside.

After a leisurely 'final pack' we headed for Ivalo airport for an uneventful flight to Helsinki and then onwards to Heathrow.

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This was a highly successful tour with a grand total of 181 species of birds and 11 species of mammal recorded.

There was considerable good humour amongst the group (as is typical with so many tours) and our Finnature guide worked hard to ensure that we saw so many of the special birds of the locations visited. Seven species of owl, 28 species of wader and elusive birds like Red-flanked Bluetail and Corncrake were just some of the highlights; but no doubt each person in the group will have had their own favourite species, places and moments.
 
To sum it all up, it was a great trip with excellent birding in fabulous places and all attained in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.

Full Bird List