Avian Adventures Tour reports- northern India

Little Grebe
Seen almost every day outside Gujarat.

Great Cormorant
Not seen in Gujarat at all, but regularly seen elsewhere; a flock of more than forty birds seen sunning themselves at the lake around the Lake Palace Hotel, Jaipur.

Little Cormorant
Encountered in all wetlands visited, including the lakes at Gir lion sanctuary.

Indian Cormorant
Seen in fairly small numbers in all wetlands outside Gujarat.

Oriental Darter
Not seen in the Rann, but in all other wetlands.

White Pelican
First encountered on a breezy morning at Kamleshwar Dam, Gir Forest and in all wetlands thereafter. A memorable bird for the tour – a flock of around 300 birds shimmering pale pink across the mud on a hot morning at Nawa Talav, Rann of Kutch. Also common at Bharatpur, where viewed at closer range. A special bird for the leader, who spends much of his summer in the Danube Delta, where the majority of Europe's birds breed. Where do India's pelicans nest?

Dalmatian Pelican
A handful of birds seen at Nawa Talav, Rann of Kutch and at Bharatpur.

Little Egret
Seen almost every day of the tour.

Grey Heron
Seen on almost every day.

Purple Heron
An immature seen at Bajana Bridge, near Patdi, Rann of Kutch and a few birds seen at Bharatpur.

Great Egret
Seen in small numbers everywhere except the Rann.

Intermediate Egret
Seen almost every day.

Cattle Egret
One of the commonest and most frequently seen birds.

Indian Pond Heron
One of the commonest and most frequently seen birds.

Little Heron
Single birds seen well in Ranthambore and on the first day at Bharatpur.

Black-crowned Night Heron
Seen every day when in Rajasthan and one of the specialities of Bharatpur, where around 100 birds were seen most days.

Yellow Bittern
A single bird seen at Bharatpur - very shy.

Cinnamon Bittern
A single bird seen at Bharatpur - very shy.

Black Bittern
A single bird seen at Bharatpur - very shy.

Painted Stork
Seen in every wetland visited - first encountered at Kamleshwar Lake, Gir Forest.

Asian Openbill
A flock of twelve seen at Mansarovar Lake, Ranthambore and a single bird seen in the south of the reserve at Bharatpur.

Black Stork
Small numbers seen, especially at Ranthambore.

Woolly-necked Stork
Once away from Gir, seen in every wetland.

Black-necked Stork
A few seen at Bharatpur only.

Glossy Ibis
Seen first at 'the bridge' over the Banas or Banath River en route from Ranthambore to Bharatpur and in fairly small numbers on most days at Bharatpur. All were in winter plumage but some were developing signs of glossiness.

Black-headed Ibis
Not seen in the Rann, but in small numbers at every other site.

Red-naped Ibis
Seen in small numbers in Gujarat and at Ranthambore.

Eurasian Spoonbill
Seen in all wetlands - a maximum of c. 80 seen at Bharatpur.

Greater Flamingo
Famously, the speciality of the Rann, where more than 100 birds were seen on Nawa Talav.

Lesser Flamingo
As above, but seen only at Nawa Talav and about twice the number of Greater.

Fulvous Whistling Duck
Seen only at Bharatpur, where more than 100 were seen on one day.

Lesser Whistling Duck
Rather less common than the 1999 tour and seen only at Bharatpur - c. ten.

Greylag Goose
Seen only at Bharatpur - a maximum of c. 80.

Bar-headed Goose
Seen every day in Rajasthan - a maximum of c. 80.

Ruddy Shelduck
Seen in all wetland areas - commonest at Bharatpur, where c. 20 were seen on one day.

Common Shelduck
One only seen, at 'the creek' near Matbura village in the Rann of Kutch.

Comb Duck
Seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur in fairly small numbers - maximum c. 10.

Cotton Pygmy Goose
Seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Eurasian Wigeon
Seen very nearly daily and the most seen was not in any reserve, but on the drive from Jaipur to Bharatpur - c. 40.

Gadwall
Smallish numbers seen in every wetland.

Common Teal
Smallish numbers seen in every wetland.

Spot-billed Duck
Seen in the Rann and at Bharatpur; highest numbers at the latter, where c.40 was the maximum.

Northern Pintail
Once away from Gir, seen almost every day - a maximum of c.50 at Soorwal Lake, Ranthambore.

Garganey
Seen at Ranthambore and almost daily at Bharatpur.

Northern Shoveler
Seen daily once away from Gir - remarkably the most seen was far from any reserve; several hundred were seen around the Lake Palace Hotel, Jaipur.

Red-crested Pochard
Seen on one day only, at Bharatpur, and then only three.

Common Pochard
First seen on the drive Jaipur-Ranthambore and almost daily thereafter.

Ferruginous Duck
Seen only at Bharatpur and there in small numbers - maximum c.6.

Tufted Duck
Small numbers seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Crested Honey Buzzard
Memorably close views of three birds, two of which were seen at some length, perched nearby. Also seen in Gir.

Black-shouldered Kite
Small numbers seen on many days.

Black Kite
Predictably, the commonest raptor seen. An unforgettable close encounter at the Maharajah of Junagadh's private cemetery and an inseparable part of the memories of a relaxing afternoon visit to Agra's Red Fort, as they wheeled in the sky and settled on the
banks of the Jumna River. If any single bird sums up impressions of India, this is surely the strongest candidate.

Lesser Fish Eagle
A single bird seen perched in trees in the valley below the fort gate at Bharatpur.

Grey-headed Fish Eagle
One seen, at Ranthambore.

Egyptian Vulture
Small numbers seen at Gir, over Fatehpur Sikri and Agra and on one day at Bharatpur.

Indian White-backed Vulture
Very close encounters of several birds as they wheeled in to devour the fresh carcass of a buffalo calf on the roadside en route Jaipur-Bharatpur and seen almost every day near habitation – but not seen much at Bharatpur.

Long-billed Vulture
A maximum of c. 30 seen at Ranthambore, also seen at Jaipur and at Gir.

Red-headed Vulture
A bird in decline at Bharatpur - single birds only seen over Jaipur and Ranthambore.

Short-toed Snake Eagle
Single birds seen at Gir and at Soorwal Lake, Ranthambore, where a bird made a very close fly-past

Crested Serpent Eagle
Single birds well seen when perched in trees in Ranthambore.

Eurasian Marsh Harrier
Predictably, most commonly seen at Bharatpur, but also at Bajana Bridge, Rann of Kutch and a single bird seen at Ranthambore.

Montagu's Harrier
A single bird (an adult male) seen over cotton-fields where picking was in progress (disturbing prey?) near Patdi in the Rann of Kutch.

Shikra
Single birds seen at most locations; a memorable encounter in the car park at Laxmi Vilas Palace hotel, Bharatpur, where a single bird roosted every day in the exposed branch of a gum tree and permitted close early-morning views.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk
Single birds seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Greater Spotted Eagle
A single bird seen settled on the ground at Nawa Talav, Rann of Kutch and of course encountered in some numbers at Bharatpur, where it is the commonest eagle.

Tawny Eagle
Seen only at Bharatpur, where a maximum of five.

Steppe Eagle
First seen at Gir, then only at Bharatpur.

Imperial Eagle
Seen only at Bharatpur, where a maximum of four.

Bonelli's Eagle
One well seen, though in unusual plumage, first flying over Sultanpur reserve and then perched to roost in trees and being mobbed by corvids.

Booted Eagle
Seen only at Gir.

Changeable Hawk Eagle
Seen at Gir and Ranthambore.

Common Kestrel
Single birds seen only in the Rann and at Bharatpur.

Peregrine
One bird only seen and then the leader was the only one to see it well, hunting fast through trees near Keoladeo Temple, Bharatpur.

Grey Francolin
Seen almost every day, though only heard at Gir.

Jungle Bush Quail
A covey of seven birds seen at a water point in Gir.

Painted Spurfowl
Fleeting views of two only at Ranthambore.

Common Peafowl
Seen almost daily.

Barred Buttonquail
Three seen, in the Rann of Kutch.

Water Rail
Seen only at Bharatpur, where the guides amused us by getting quite excited about it! It is fairly unusual there.

Brown Crake
Ridiculously close roadside views of the pair that inhabit the small lake and waterfall complex upstream of the Shiva shrine in the valley below Ranthambore Fort.

White-breasted Waterhen
Not seen in the Rann, but seen everywhere else.

Ruddy Crake
Two only seen on one day at Bharatpur.

Common Moorhen
Seen everywhere except the Rann.

Purple Swamp-hen
Seen almost every day in Rajasthan.

Eurasian Coot
Fairly common in most wetlands in all areas visited.

Siberian Crane
The pair were seen at their usual haunt in Bharatpur.

Sarus Crane
Seen only at Bharatpur - a maximum of c.10.

Demoiselle Crane
Seen only at "the bridge" en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur.

Common Crane
A flock of 1200 plus seen overhead at Bajana Bridge, Rann of Kutch and thereafter seen in much smaller numbers at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana
Small numbers seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Bronze-winged Jacana
Exactly as for Pheasant-tailed.

Black-winged Stilt
Seen almost daily - very much not a bird of reserves, evidently preferring the village roadside pools with their quantities of filth.

Pied Avocet
An impressive flock of more than 300 birds seen at Nawa Talav and seen in handfuls thereafter, only at Ranthambore.

Stone Curlew
Good views of three birds at Nawa Talav.

Great Thick-knee
A single bird seen at Kamleshwar Lake, Gir, then two birds seen in the reserve at Ranthambore and a memorable seven birds at Soorwal Lake there.

Small Pratincole
A flock of c. 60 birds seen perched on mud and among grass at Nawa Talav, then seen at Lake Palace, Jaipur and on one day only at Bharatpur.

Ringed Plover
A handful seen on one day only, at Nawa Talav.

Little Ringed Plover
Seen at 'the creek' in the Rann and also around the lakes in the reserve and out of it at Ranthambore.

Kentish Plover
Four seen at Soorwal Lake, Ranthambore.

Northern Lapwing
A handful or less seen on one day at Bharatpur.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing
Memorably first seen on a night drive with Dhanraj Malik in the Rann and only seen in Gujarat.

River Lapwing
As predicted by the leader, memorably seen from the walls of the Taj Mahal, on the banks of the Jumna River. Otherwise seen only at Soorwal Bunder and 'the bridge' en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur.

Red-wattled Lapwing
Seen almost daily in farmland and wetland - one of the commonest birds of the tour.

White-tailed Lapwing
Small numbers seen in Rajasthan only.

Common Snipe
Seen in all wetlands once away from Gir.

Great Snipe
Three seen at Bajana Bridge in the Rann.

Black-tailed Godwit
Several hundred seen at Nawa Talav, thereafter seen at Rupen Bridge in the Rann, at Ranthambore but not at Bharatpur.

Eurasian Curlew
Seen at ‘the creek’, Rann of Kutch and Soorwal Bunder.

Spotted Redshank
Rather fewer seen than the year before, at "the creek", Rann of Kutch, Ranthambore lakes and Bharatpur.

Common Redshank
Small numbers seen in every wetland area but not at Gir.

Marsh Sandpiper
Small numbers seen in the Rann and at Ranthambore.

Common Greenshank
Small numbers seen in most areas visited, and heard at ‘the vulture site’ where we filmed the devouring of the buffalo calf.

Green Sandpiper
Small numbers seen in every wetland visited - close views near the hotel at Gir along the creek.

Wood Sandpiper
Seen at Ranthambore and Bharatpur - a maximum of c. 10 at the latter.

Common Sandpiper
Strangely enough, seen everywhere except Bharatpur.

Temminck's Stint
Seen in all wetland reserves, but outside the Rann, only in handfuls. At Nawa Talav, an estimated 500 birds!

Ruff
Around 100 seen at Nawa Talav and almost daily thereafter though never in such numbers (maximum at Bharatpur c. 40).

Greater Painted Snipe
Good views of handfuls of birds quietly roosting in cover on islands in the lakes at Bharatpur.

Yellow-legged Gull
Perhaps soon to be split again - to Caspian Gull. A single bird at Soorwal Bunder and three at Bharatpur. The tour was remarkably poor in gulls.

Pallas's Gull
Two seen at ‘the bridge’ en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur

Brown-headed Gull
First seen at Bajana Bridge and the lakes at Ranthambore

Black-headed Gull
Handfuls seen in the Rann and at Soorwal Bunder.

Gull-billed Tern
Seen at Bajana Bridge only.

Indian River Tern
Small numbers seen at every wetland once we had left Gir.

Black-bellied Tern
A single bird seen at "the bridge" en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur.

Whiskered Tern
About 30 birds hunting at Bajana bridge and thereafter handfuls e.g. at Bharatpur.

Indian Skimmer
A single bird seen at Kamleshwar Lake and thereafter two at ‘the bridge’ en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur.

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse
Some birds are guaranteed to cheer up any birdwatcher and none more so than this enchanting species. Around one hundred seen as we drove away from Nawa Talav with Shabbir Malik - we stopped to watch them of course, as they drank from pools. Of such moments are made the finest memories of a birdwatching holiday.

Feral Pigeon
Seen daily.

Oriental Turtle Dove
Seen at Gir only, and here only four.

Laughing Dove
Seen almost daily in farmland.

Spotted Dove
Seen at Gir and Ranthambore only.

Red Collared Dove
Seen in small numbers at Gir and Ranthambore.

Eurasian Collared Dove
Seen very nearly daily. This is the original territory of the species that arrived in Britain in the middle of the twentieth century. Many British texts refer to the bird being of Balkan
origin, but the Balkans themselves were only a staging post on the spread of this species from much further east.

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon
Seen at Gir and Bharatpur - at the latter very good close views were had, in the tops of low trees at Keoladeo Temple.

Alexandrine Parakeet
A single bird flew overhead at Sultanpur in the dusk. It could only have been this species but was properly seen only by the leader.

Rose-ringed Parakeet
The ubiquitous bird of India, seen on every day.

Plum-headed Parakeet
A small party seen feeding in isolated trees behind Tiger Moon resort, Ranthambore.

Drongo Cuckoo
A single bird teased the leader for some time at Soorwal Bunder - but this was what it was, no doubt.

Asian Koel
Tantalisingly, only heard. Well heard in trees in Junagadh town and Fatehpur Sikri but sought in vain.

Greater Coucal
Single birds seen on most days - a maximum en route across Gujarat to the Rann from Gir, when five were seen; a bird of farmland as much as reserves.

Collared Scops Owl
Two seen perched in a hole in a tree-trunk in Ranthambore and a single bird at Bharatpur.

Eagle Owl
Thrilling views of two birds on the last morning at Ranthambore.

Dusky Eagle Owl
Another very exciting species. This one tantalised us with its evening call in the nursery at Bharatpur when we were having amazingly good views of Orange-headed Thrush. Then the next evening we were called back by some helpful birders on the main drag through the reserve, when light was beginning to fail. Nevertheless, excellent views had of a family of four that gathered in treetops and posed for telescope views.

Spotted Owlet
Much the commonest owl species seen, though strangely not at Ranthambore, where it does occur. Good views at Bharatpur.

Indian Nightjar
One seen in the nursery at Bharatpur, perched close overhead, lengthways along a branch.

Crested Treeswift
Seen at Gir only.

Little Swift
Seen almost daily, at Gir, over Jaipur and a maximum of c.60 birds on the last day at Ranthambore.

Eurasian Kingfisher
Small numbers seen in every wetland visited.

White-throated Kingfisher
Seen almost daily - by no means restricted to wetlands.

Pied Kingfisher
Seen almost daily in all wetland areas.

Green Bee-eater
Seen almost daily in a variety of habitats - farmland, reserve grassland etc.

Indian Roller
Seen almost daily, as above.

Eurasian Hoopoe
Seen on most days.

Indian Grey Hornbill
Seen at Bharatpur only, where it occurred in the garden of Laxmi Vilas Palace.

Brown-headed Barbet
Heard only, at Bharatpur.

Coppersmith Barbet
First seen whilst waiting at the domestic terminal of Bombay Airport, thereafter more heard than seen, but well seen at Bharatpur, eventually.

Eurasian Wryneck
Single birds seen, firstly on the dam (bund) at Soorwal Bunder – at amazingly close quarters and also at Bharatpur - also very nearby.

Brown-capped Woodpecker
A single bird seen at Bharatpur.

Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker
A handful of birds seen at Bharatpur only.

Black-rumped Flameback
Single birds seen at Gir, Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark
Seen in small numbers in Gir, at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Rufous-tailed Lark
A pair seen on two days in the Rann and beside Padam Talav - one of the lakes in Ranthambore reserve.

Short-toed Lark
A small flock of c. twenty birds seen whilst cruising the desert of the Rann of Kutch, also at Bharatpur and Ranthambore.

Lesser Short-toed Lark
Two birds seen well in grassland beside Padam Talav, Ranthambore.

Crested Lark
Seen in the Rann and at Ranthambore.

Oriental Skylark
Single birds seen on two days at Bharatpur.

Sand Martin
Seen at ‘the bridge’ en route Ranthambore-Bharatpur.

Dusky Crag Martin
Most common at Ranthambore around the crags and ruins, also at Gir.

Barn Swallow
Seen almost daily.

Wire-tailed Swallow
A pair seen at Bajana Bridge, Rann of Kutch and almost daily thereafter.

House Martin
One seen whilst driving near Junagadh.

Tawny Pipit
Handfuls seen at Gir, at Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Long-billed Pipit
Two only seen, in farmland on the drive across Gujarat.

Tree Pipit
A single bird seen at Padam Talav, also at Sultanpur.

Olive-backed Pipit
Two seen on the western side of Bharatpur reserve while walking in savannah habitat.

Paddyfield Pipit
Two seen at Bajana Bridge and a single bird at Bharatpur.

White Wagtail
Seen almost daily.

White-browed Wagtail
Not much in evidence at Bharatpur, but seen at Gir and Ranthambore.

Citrine Wagtail
A single bird seen in the Rann and small numbers in winter plumage at Bharatpur.

Grey Wagtail
Seen at Bharatpur and Ranthambore.

Small Minivet
Seen in small numbers (no large flocks) in Gir, Ranthambore and Bharatpur.

Red-vented Bulbul
Seen daily.

White-eared Bulbul
Fairly common in most areas.

Common Iora
Seen at Gir and Ranthambore only.

Rufous-tailed Scrub Robin
Good views of a single bird near the road below the fort at Ranthambore - this is a rare bird for this far east.

Bluethroat
First seen near Desert Coursers Camp, Zainabad and on most days at Bharatpur.

Oriental Magpie-Robin
Seen on most days.

Black Redstart
Seen on most days.

Brown Rock Chat
Seen at Ranthambore fort and also at Fatehpur Sikri.

Common Stonechat
Single birds seen at Soorwal Bunder and Sultanpur.

Pied Bush Chat
Fairly common in most areas visited.

Northern Wheatear
Two seen, among crops on the edge of Rann of Kutch.

Desert Wheatear
The characteristic bird of the Rann, where a maximum of c. 10 birds were seen, including at least one male in breeding plumage.

Blue Rock Thrush
One seen at Ranthambore Fort.

Orange-headed Thrush
Excellent, protracted views in the nursery at Bharatpur.

Tickell's Thrush
A pair found just as we were about to drive away from Gir Lodge. They were feeding in the shade of the shrubbery in the garden. Thereafter just one female seen, at Keoladeo Temple, Bharatpur.

Zitting Cisticola
More heard than seen, but eventually seen pretty well, at Bharatpur in grassland.

Jungle Prinia
Seen at Ranthambore only.

Ashy Prinia
Seen at Gir only.

Plain Prinia
Seen at Bharatpur only.

Great Reed Warbler
Single birds seen at Bharatpur.

Blyth's Reed Warbler
First encountered, at some close acquaintance, in camel-thorn trees inside the compound at Desert Coursers Camp, also at Bharatpur.

Clamorous Reed Warbler
Seen in lakeside bushes at Bharatpur.

Common Whitethroat
Good views of single birds in the Rann and at Ranthambore.

Lesser Whitethroat
Fairly common in most areas visited.

Orphean Warbler
Good views in the Rann only.

Common Tailorbird
Fairly common in most areas visited.

Common Chiffchaff
Small numbers seen at Gir, in the Rann and at Bharatpur.

Dusky Warbler
Seen in the Rann.

Smoky Warbler
A single bird, seen at Ranthambore.

Plain Leaf Warbler
Seen at Bharatpur only.

Hume's Warbler
Seen most days in Rajasthan.

Sulphur-bellied Warbler
Seen on one day only, at Ranthambore around the fort.

Red-throated Flycatcher
Not seen in the Rann, but on most days elsewhere.

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher
Memorably first encountered at the watering hole where we saw the Lions in Gir; thereafter at Ranthambore only and here, too, near water (e.g. at the stream below the fort, perched in bushes close to the road).

Grey-headed Canary-Flycatcher
Fairly common in the wooded hills of Ranthambore; a single bird seen at Bharatpur.

White-browed Fantail
Seen at Gir and in Ranthambore only.

Tawny-bellied Babbler
A flock of at least four seen in bushes and scrub at the base of date palms whilst walking back down from the fort at Ranthambore. This was a notable find and a ‘lifer’ for the leader.

Common Babbler
Not nearly as common as Jungle Babbler and usually seen in more remote areas.

Large Grey Babbler
Seen in flocks in most areas visited.

Jungle Babbler
The commonest Babbler, seen almost every day; several fed from the hand at Keoladeo Temple, Bharatpur.

Great Tit
This, the very different-looking version of our familiar bird, was seen in the dry woodlands at Gir and Ranthambore.

Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch
One only seen, at Bharatpur.

Purple Sunbird
Seen almost every day.

Oriental White-eye
Pair seen in the dry woodlands at Gir, outside the Gir Lodge, rather than in the reserve, also at Ranthambore.

Golden Oriole
A pair seen at Bharatpur.

Common Woodshrike
Seen at Gir and Bharatpur - pairs and single birds.

Rufous-tailed Shrike
Seen in Gujarat and at Ranthambore.

Brown Shrike
Seen at Bharatpur only.

Bay-backed Shrike
Fairly common in most areas visited but not seen in the Rann.

Long-tailed Shrike
Seen on most days in all areas

Southern Grey Shrike
Seen in the Rann and Ranthambore.

Black Drongo
Seen daily.

Ashy Drongo
One seen at Bharatpur.

White-bellied Drongo
Seen at Bharatpur and Ranthambore.

Rufous Treepie
Seen everywhere except in the Rann.

House Crow
Seen daily, almost always near habitation.

Jungle Crow
Seen almost every day.

Brahminy Starling
Seen in Gujarat and at Bharatpur.

Rose-coloured Starling
Seen in Gujarat only. Who can forget the scene at Ahmedabad station? Parties of them called and squabbled among the station structure and bustled over the carriage roofs.

Common Starling
A party of four seen in grassland below the dam at Soorwal Bunder.