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Saturday, 15 February
On a bright, sunny morning we all meet safely at Heathrow.
Despite the recent security scares, the check-in goes smoothly. We leave
on time and arrive a few minutes late at Miami. The only excitement
on the Atlantic crossing is the announcement that one of the passengers
has just proposed to his girlfriend.
We encounter a very tedious wait in the transit lounge
with the plane delayed by about two and a half hours but eventually
we arrive in San José rather late. Simon, our ground agent and Santiago,
our driver are waiting for us and soon we have checked-in to our hotel.
Sunday, 16 February
Although it is an early start, most of us are awake
as our body clocks try and work out the real time. There is coffee and
a snack waiting for us in the foyer. This morning we drive approximately
70km in an easterly direction to our destination of Finca Mirador de
los Quetzales.
San José is very quiet as it is a Sunday morning and
it is an easy journey out of the city through the sprawling suburbs.
We can appreciate the central valley in which San José is sited, as
there are steep hills on both sides of us. Some are covered in cloud
and as we climb we begin to pass through areas where the cloud is very
low lying.
We arrive after a drive of an hour and a half to find
the area is basked in sunshine with plenty of blue sky. From the car
park we are soon watching Volcano Hummingbird, Blue and White Swallow
and Rufous-collared Sparrow. Breakfast is called and we sit down to
rice, black beans, scrambled eggs and toast. This is particularly welcome,
as we are all extremely hungry.
Jorge is our guide for today and is the son of the
owner. Although the farm still has cattle, the owner had the foresight
to preserve some of his woodland and the mature wild avocados are particularly
attractive to Resplendent Quetzal. We are soon watching a pair of these
magnificent birds with the male showing off his long tail feathers,
an amazing start to our walk. Other sightings include Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager,
Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher, Sooty Robin and Yellow-thighed Finch.
There are lots of very active, noisy hummers, the majority being Fiery-throated
Hummingbird with lesser numbers of Volcano Hummingbird. Arriving back
at 11.30 we sit down to lunch about twenty minutes later, before we
move on to Savegre.
Savegre is a lodge at the bottom of a steep valley
and is set beside a fast flowing river. A brief stop on the way down
adds Flame-coloured Tanager, Flame-throated Warbler, Spotted-crowned
Woodcreeper and Tufted Flycatcher. On arrival we head straight for
the verandah where there are a number of hummingbird feeders. It is
great to be so close to the hummers and we add Scintillant Hummingbird
and Grey-tailed and Purple-throated Mountain-gems. The speed of movement
makes photography difficult but the closeness to the birds ensures that
the full array of colours can be appreciated.
Many of us break for a drink in the bar before a little
more birding in the grounds of the lodge. We find Acorn Woodpecker,
Rose-breasted Grosbeak, Baltimore Oriole and Blue-grey Tanager. Birds
of prey are represented by Red-tailed Hawk, Osprey and American Swallow-tailed
Kite. Time runs away quickly and it is soon time to head back to San
José.
As we wash before dinner I am slightly worried by
the noise emanating from the restaurant. There is a wedding party, and
the guests are clearly enjoying themselves. It however breaks up at
about 19.00 and we are able to do the checklist and enjoy dinner in
peace. An early night is priority to most of the group.
Monday, 17 February
Coffee and a light snack are served before the short
transfer to the airport. Here there are three planes waiting for us.
One is faster as it is a twin-engined plane but this drops five of us
at Porto Jiminez. Here we have time for a birdwatch and spot Red-lored
Parrot, Wood Stork, White Ibis and Masked Tityra, amongst others.
We all meet up at Tiskita, which is already hot and
humid. Breakfast is served before we make our way to the rooms. The
rooms are delightful with views of the Pacific and the background noise
is the pounding waves below us. There are also hammocks for the brave.
At 09.30 we begin our walk.
Walk is not quite the right word as there are so many
birds to see and identify, we do not move very far. Luis is the resident
natural history guide and he is with us throughout our stay. There are
too many birds to mention as they arrive thick and fast but in one large,
fruiting cashew tree we locate Yellow-throated and Philadelphia Vireos,
Plain Xenops, Summer Tanager and Riverside Wren. Luis scopes a King
Vulture but it drops from its perch before all can see it.
It is important to maintain fluid levels, so a short
break is very welcome to sample one of the homemade fruit juices. These
are readily available from the fridge at all times. Moving towards the
river we see Thick-billed Euphonia and Beryl-crowned Hummingbird and
later add Bright-rumped Atilla. We walk under our first fruit trees
and Luis identifies the exotic fruit that can be found. They were all
planted by the owner's father about twenty five years ago. The stream
area is quiet with a low water level although there are small fish to
be seen.
We are back at the lodge at 11.15 as it is now too
hot for much bird activity. As lunch is 12.30 many of us sit outside
enjoying the light breeze and spot a King Vulture, Osprey and Grey Hawk.
After lunch most of us enjoy a siesta although some fit in a swim before
we meet again at 15.30.
This afternoon we take a short walk to the waterfall.
The forest is already quite dark but we manage to find a Chestnut-backed
Antbird, which I proceed to frighten away as I slip over into an undignified
and painful heap. Within a short time it begins to rain and very soon
it is pouring down. Luckily we are near the lodge and we manage to escape
the worst of the downpour. After about half an hour the rain stops and
we continue with our birding in the garden. New birds include Red-capped
Manakin, Mealy Parrot, three Fiery-billed Aracari and a Chestnut-mandibled
Toucan.
Dinner is at 18.30 and is taken in the open-sided
restaurant. A pleasant feature is the lack of insects despite it being
dark outside. As we eat our meal a Common Pauraque calls outside. After
the checklist most of the group retire early to their rooms, ensuring
that we do not tread on any of the migrating land crabs that are making
their way towards the sea.
Tuesday, 10 February
Our pre-breakfast birding does not stray far from
the swimming pool. The grounds are full of planted trees and shrubs
attractive to birds. Many of the trees are in fruit and there are loads
of flowering stem gingers, heliconias and hibiscus. Early on, there
are still many crabs in evidence trying to find safe places for the
day before continuing with their migration this evening. New birds include
Crimson-fronted Parrot, Dusky-capped and Piratic Flycatchers and Scarlet
Macaw. This last species was introduced to the area about four months
ago.
After breakfast we walk along the stream through primary
forest. Luis points out many of the tree species and tells us of their
uses. There is a mammal theme at the beginning with Central American
Agouti and Nine-banded Armadillo, both on the forest floor. Birding
is very difficult partly due to the forest being drier than usual. We
do see Band-tailed Barbthroat and Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. Later there
is a troop of Squirrel Monkeys and they are being followed by Tawny-winged
Woodcreeper and Grey-headed Tanager. A Black Mantled Howler is a good
sight.
We arrive in the orchard and complete the loop back
to the lodge, tasting a starfruit straight from the tree on the way
back. Many of us enjoy a juice and the morning finishes with a White
Hawk. Lunch and a siesta follow, Derek and Frances drop down to the
Pacific Ocean for a paddle.
This afternoon we make our way to the orchard, having
scoped Fiery-billed Aracari and Mangrove Black Hawk before leaving the
vicinity of the lodge. Here there are many varieties of fruiting trees
including guava, jak, starfruit and cocoa. A White Hawk is seen briefly
and later we locate a Roadside Hawk A Thick-billed Seed Finch is seen
well but otherwise things are rather quiet, probably due to the weather
being particularly dry at the moment.
As we return there are three Mantled Howler Monkeys
who respond to Luis's imitations by moving quickly away. Some of the
group detour to the verandah of Peter and Brenda to watch an Agouti
suckling two youngsters. Dinner is at 18.30 and again we are all early
to bed.
Wednesday, 19 February
The drop down to the airfield does not take long and
we are soon birding a different habitat. It is much more open here with
many flowering shrubs, particularly hibiscus. We walk out onto the short
grass on the runway and find Scrub Greenlet, Orange-chinned Parakeet
and Grey-capped Flycatcher. The temperature rises very quickly but there
is still plenty of bird activity. A Black-striped Sparrow skulks in
the verbena but stays long enough to allow scoping and most of the party
see their first Ruddy Ground Dove. The usual party of Smooth-billed
Ani are here, which is a relief as they are the only ones we are likely
to see during the tour.
Crossing the road we walk out onto the grey sandy
beach. Under the coconut palms there are many newly dug piles of sand,
these have been dug at night by the land crabs to bury their eggs. On
the beach itself there are vast numbers of tiny hermit crabs all heading
away from the receding tide line. There are some rocks showing and these
hold Whimbrel, Willet, Spotted Sandpiper and Semi-palmated Plover, while
out at sea there are three fishing Sandwich Tern. It is soon time to
make our way back up the hill to breakfast.
The main walk is circular but involves some climbing.
We are soon in the primary forest that is unusually dry. Our first bird
of note is a nice male Pale-billed Woodpecker, well spotted by Alan.
The loud call of a Rufous Piha alerts us to the bird's presence and
it is well seen high above our heads. The call is very loud in relation
to the size of the bird. After crossing a small leaf-cutting ant trail,
we find a nice but active mixed flock. The most numerous bird is Dotted-winged
Antwren and both male and females are seen. Other species include Plain
Xenops, Chestnut-sided Warbler, Yellow-olive Flycatcher and Tropical
Gnatcatcher.
As we drop down the hill the second half of the group
stand and watch a White-faced Capuchin washing in a pool of water caught
in a tree hollow. At one stage only its face is visible as the remainder
of the animal is in the tree hole. Luis keeps the best to last as he
spots a Spectacled Owl that we are able to scope. It is a great finish
to a tiring walk.
The post siesta walk is down to the beach. We find
a small water trough that is being visited by many birds, the commonest
being Tenessee Warbler. There is a Northern Waterthrush here but only
Derek manages to get on to it. We walk through to the village of Punta
Banco where ice creams are purchased and Sandwich Terns are fishing.
Above us there is an adult and young King Vulture flying, both swamping
the accompanying Black Vulture.
The evening follows the usual pattern and we retire
early to bed. It is very relaxing to lie on the beds and let the pounding
waves send you to sleep.
Thursday, 20 February
After an early breakfast, the first plane load is
at the airfield for a 06.30 flight to Porto Jiminez where they change
planes to a twin-propeller one. The rest of the group meet at 07.00.
The weather is great as there is less cloud and the views beneath us
are good. We initially follow the coast northwards before turning eastwards
towards the Central Valley. The first plane spot Roseate Spoonbill from
2,000 feet. On the final approach we pass over many hillsides planted
with coffee. All three planes land within a short time of each other
and we start our journey to Monteverde at 08.30.
The road out of the city is busy but once past the
international airport the traffic lessons. Unfortunately our first stop
at the dam at Garida is very noisy as there are major works being carried
out. However we still find Great Egret, Aching and Least Grebe. On the
other side of the road there are Rufous-napped Wren and Hoffman's Woodpecker.
The town of Orotina is our next stop. It seems an
unlikely birding destination as we alight in the main town square. Almost
immediately we see a group of Three-toed Sloth, and two superb Black-and-White
Owls soon follow these. Olive accepts that these are not stuffed when
one finally moves it head. Here also is a female Rose-throated Becard
and several White-winged Dove.
On hitting the coast we turn northwards. As we cross
one bridge over a tidal creek there is a Reddish Egret below us. When
we turn eastwards again, it is a pleasant surprise to see since my last
visit the road surface is now tarmac. This lasts for about thirty kilometers
before it becomes a rough track. We are held up briefly by a funeral
procession and make one quick stop for a Tropical Pewee. As we climb
the majority of the roadside fences are made from living trees and these
are mainly protecting cattle pastures. It is a long haul upwards and
we arrive for a late lunch.
After lunch we watch the hummingbird feeders but they
are rather quiet. The best birds are two Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrushes
feeding below the flowering verbena bushes.
A little way up the road we stop at a fruiting fig
tree. Here we locate Emerald Toucanet, Golden-browed Chlorophonia and
Yellow-breasted Euphonia. Our final stopping point is the hummingbird
gallery near to the entrance of the reserve. For a while things are
very confusing. The visitors include Violet Sabrewing, Green Hermit,
Green-crowned Brilliant, Purple-throated Mountain-gem, Stripe-tailed
Hummingbird, Coppery-headed Emerald and Magenta-throated Woodstar. At
last we find our first trogon when an Orange-bellied Trogon flies in.
Later birds include Common Bush Tanager and Black Guan. Just as we are
leaving an Olingo visits the feeding and greedily drinks copious amounts
of nectar, this animal having a badly injured tail.
The much-heralded sunset does not happen so we retire
to our rooms, meeting later for a 19.30 dinner. This is followed by
the usual checklist. The Costa Ricans celebrate their national football
team beating Honduras.
Friday, 21 February
There is coffee on the verandah at 06.00 and then
we spend some time outside looking at Blue-crowned Motmot. A short walk
down the drive produces Plain Wren and White-eared Ground Sparrow. After
a good breakfast we see a Brown-hooded Parrot perched at the top of
one of the taller trees.
It is busy when we reach the cloud forest reserve
with many people checking in. Our favoured route is full so we take
a short walk to the car park and see Slate-throated Whitestart and Dusky-capped
Flycatcher. Before we start our walk there is a very obliging female
Orange-bellied Trogon next to the cafeteria.
Once on the main trail we find the birding very difficult.
The cloud is very low and there is a lot of very fine drizzle. With
much perseverance we locate Prong-billed Barbet, Black-faced Solitaire
and Common Bush Tanager. The trees here include many fine old ones covered
in epiphytes and bromeliads. The tree ferns are huge and we see some
clumps of yellow orchids high up on tree trunks. There are many impatiens
beside the trail which, of course, should not be here.
Melvin detours to the suspension bridge where he scopes
a Bare-shanked Screech Owl. It was found about a week ago so we were
lucky to enjoy such a bird. Just past the owl Peter and Brenda see a
Slaty-backed Nightingale Thrush. We venture onto the bridge that is
about thirty meters above the ground. Stunning views are had, halfway
across the bridge, of a pair of Golden-browed Chlorophonias that are
both close and at eye level. As we return for our picnic lunch we find
another Yellowish Flycatcher.
After lunch, most of us return to the forest. John
and Olive elect to spend their time with the hummers. We walk part of
the Waterfall Trail that is a narrower trail than the one this morning.
Although the trees are more spaced out, we are now walking under them.
We hit a purple patch very quickly and this includes Olivaceous and
Spotted Woodcreepers, Spotted Barbtail and Golden-winged Warbler. Just
ahead of us there are Three-striped Warbler and a little later we obtain
great views of Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush. It is soon time to return
but as we do so, there is a female Resplendent Quetzal above our heads.
Driving down the road we stop at a side road and alight
from the bus. There are a few cars and motorbikes to avoid but it is
generally a rather quiet road. Immediately we find Hoffman's Woodpecker
and Black-throated Green Warbler. Brown Jay at last poses for views
and there is a party of Masked Tityra. We locate Keel-billed Toucan
in the scope and find a wonderful fruiting tree that holds many robins
including White-throated Robin. The track is downhill which after quite
a long day on our feet is very welcome. At 16.45 Santiago appears with
the bus and picks us all up and we return to the hotel.
Saturday, 22 February
During our early morning session we try, and fail
with White-eared Ground Sparrow. Yet, as we arrive for breakfast, there
are two right out in the open below the verandah. In the meantime Santiago
has been showing Janet a Squirrel Cuckoo in a tree in the car park.
Finca Ecologica is close to the centre of town and
it does not take us long to drive there. It is an area of secondary
forest with patches of old coffee bushes and bananas. As we arrive we
are greeted by a large troop of Coati feeding near the centre, the group
having many young members. Once in the forest we soon locate Rufous-and-White
Wren and Long-tailed Manakin. A very obliging Chiriqui Quail Dove allows
us all several scope views without flying away. Other sightings include
Rufous-crowned and Golden-winged Warblers, Plain Wren and yet more White-eared
Ground Sparrow.
A distant bellbird begins to call and this greatly
excites Melvin who sets off to a viewpoint in hot pursuit. On the way
we pass and step over some major leaf-cutting ant trails. On reaching
the viewpoint we overlook the Children’s Rain Forest. To find a bellbird
is going to be difficult, as there are thousands of trees in view. It
is however not long before Derek tracks down a Three-wattled Bellbird
in a very distant tree. Unfortunately it flies before we are able to
scope the bird. Melvin proceeds to tell us that it feeds for a couple
of hours and then spends the rest of the day bonking! - A reference
to its call. The group collapses and I take Melvin to one side and explain
the English meaning of the word. All is not lost, as the bellbird is
relocated by our sharp-eyed guide and this time we have the whole bird
in the scope, although it is a little distant to see the wattles properly.
With this difficult bird under our belts, we return to the centre and
onwards to the hotel for a buffet lunch and a break.
Setting off at 15.00, we head for Santa Elena. This
forest reserve straddles the continental divide but today we concentrate
on the entrance road. A Grey-breasted Wood-Wren leads us a merry chase,
giving all of us very brief views as it skulks in the bushes beside
the path. We return to the entrance of the reserve and find a mixed
flock above our heads. There are Ruddy Treerunner, Spangle-cheeked Tanager,
Common Bush Tanager and both species of whitestart. Two Black-faced
Solitaire show well and their squeaky gate calls can be heard deeper
in the forest. The forest becomes quiet at 16.45 as the light begins
to fail and we start our return journey at 17.00.
Dinner is at 19.30 with a choice of steak or sea bass.
We have the restaurant to ourselves so it is easy to complete the checklist
afterwards.
Sunday, 23 February
The coffee is a little late arriving so we spend longer
than expected on the balcony. The time is not wasted as we see two Yellow-throated
Brush-Finch. We are loaded promptly, as usual, so are able to set off
at 08.00.
Santa Elena is our first stop, as we need to visit
the supermarket. Solimar has no alcohol but you are welcome to take
in your own, so most of us stock up for the three days. The drive is
then a continual drop from Monteverde to the lowlands. With every kilometre
or so, the temperature seems to rise and it is soon very hot.
Our first stop is for a pair of superb Bat Falcon,
which pose on a dead snag and give great views. Later we make a longer
stop after a Stripe-headed Sparrow is spotted from the bus. This bird
disappears but there are many consolations, the best two being Spot-breasted
and Stripe-backed Orioles. The supporting cast includes Inca Dove, Common
Ground Dove, Orange-fronted Parakeet and Baltimore Oriole. Nearer the
main road, Frances sees a White Ibis as we cross a small river.
The main road is something of a relief after many
kilometres on the unmade road. The surrounding fields and woods are
now very dry and several ponds, which in the past have held birds, are
all dry. We pass through an area of sugar cane but most has been burnt
and cut. The drive to Solimar is soon upon us and we follow this through
extensive cattle pastures until we reach the lodge.
Solimar Lodge is set in a huge cattle ranching estate
of over 5,000 acres. This estate has diversified and now has areas of
forestry and bananas. It even has its own sawmill. The lodge is set
on a hill and is surrounded by some mature trees, several of which are
in blossom. It has a great swimming pool from which you can watch overflying
birds of prey, storks and vultures. Before and after lunch, the birds
from the verandah include Rose-throated Becard, White-throated Magpie-Jay,
Spotted-breasted Oriole and a pair of Lineated Woodpecker spotted by
Olive.
The woodland we visit is very close and we are there
in about five minutes. Santiago promises many Black-headed Trogon, and
he is correct as we see at least eight. Our guide, Demetrio, is very
fond of imitating owl calls and many small birds react and fly in to
the trees above us. He calls in Brown-crested and Great-crested Flycatchers,
White-lored and Tropical Gnatcatchers and Greenish Elaenia. The forest
is very dry and many of the deciduous trees have no leaves. As we return
to the bus, we detour to a small colony of Montezuma Oropendola where
we see both birds and nests. The afternoon finishes with Lesser Nighthawk
in the sky above us.
We arrive back at 18.00 and dinner is served at 19.00.
It is still amazingly hot, as there is very little breeze. As usual
we retire early to bed.
Monday, 24 February
After an early coffee we drive five minutes down the
road to Finca Pavones. Here we stand by the small Montezuma Oropendola
colony and enjoy a mixture of trogons, flycatchers, parakeets and woodpeckers.
As we alight from the bus we are able to scope one of a pair of Ferruginous
Pygmy Owls. On the return journey Santiago spots a Turquoise-browed
Motmot.
Breakfast is at 07.00 and due to the usual promptness
of the group; we arrive at our walk at about 08.00. After the bus has
dropped us we cut across the cattle pasture to the gallery woodland.
This woodland straddles a small river that is virtually dry at the moment.
There is only one small pool remaining and this holds Great Egret, Wood
Stork and Bare-necked Tiger-Heron.
Once in the forest the birding is difficult, as much
of the movement is high above our heads. Tropical Forest Neck becomes
a common affliction that affects all of us. We however continue to see
new birds and these include Acadian and Yellow-olive Flycatchers, Painted
Bunting and Scrub Euphonia. There are Barred Antshrike calling everywhere
but it is a while before any are located. The walk is flat and most
of it is in shade that is a relief. A Spectacled Owl is a great sighting
and other birds include Northern Bentbill, Streak-headed and Northern
Barred Woodcreepers and Olive Sparrow.
It is after 11.00 before we leave the shade of the
forest and enter the air-conditioned bus. We make a wide loop back to
the bus adding Crested Caracara and Scissor-tailed Flycatcher. A long
siesta follows a good lunch.
This afternoon we drive the short distance to Estero
Madragal. This is one of Costa Rica's most important wetlands but is
unfortunately being choked by an invasive grass. There have been some
high level meetings to try and come up with a strategy to control it
but little has yet been done. On arrival, the number of herons is immediately
apparent with Great Egret and Black-crowned Night-Heron everywhere.
We also find many Wood Stork, Anhinga and Bare-faced Tiger-Heron. There
is a large crocodile on the bank but this soon disappears as we alight
from the bus. We walk along the bank adding Ringed and Green Kingfishers,
Snail Kite and Little Blue Heron.
At the far end of our walk we leave the forest for
a more open habitat. Both Roseate Spoonbill and Osprey fly over and
we flush a Limpkin which sits up and allows us to scope it. A distant
Yellow-naped Parrot definitely needs a scope but we can see the yellow
nape. Once back at the bus we can see both adult and immature White
Ibis and a Muscovy Duck flies in and lands in a tree across the water
from us.
The drive back is interrupted by four Double-striped
Thick-Knees that are flushed from in front of the bus. Unfortunately
most of us miss them as they disappear into the night. Dinner is at
19.00 and we retire early to bed in preparation for tomorrow's early
start.
Tuesday, 25 February
Today is an early start as it is quite a drive to
our destination at Career. Our first stop is at a little restaurant
where the coffee is very welcome. Immediately after re-boarding the
buses, two Scarlet Macaw fly alongside us. This is a relief as everybody
had been instructed not to count the ones at Tiskita.
Our walk is along a wide, flat path, the majority
of which is in shade. This is an interesting transitional forest as
it is where the forests of the dry northwest meet the forests of the
wet southwest. Although mainly thick forest, we also walk through small
patches where the large trees are very thinly distributed. All along
the path the lower margins are a mass of flowering heliconias. Today
there are few visitors so the walk is very peaceful. An early success
is Slaty-tailed Trogon and later we add Black-headed and Black-throated
Trogons too. Other birds include Rufous-breasted Wren, Orange-collared
Manakin and Pacific Royal Flycatcher.
Our turning point should be the viewpoint over the
wetland but we walk on in search of Boat-billed Heron that is well seen.
Two Pale-billed Woodpeckers are a good catch up and we re-find the Pacific
Royal Flycatcher. This bird responds to its many admirers by briefly
raising its crest for all to see. Demetrio is on good form as he finds
both Mexican Prehensile-tailed Porcupine and Lesser Anteater sleeping
in the trees.
As usual, the return walk is much quicker; today this
is probably due to the many rumbling stomachs. We still find time to
add Hooded Warbler, Long-billed Gnatwren and Slate-headed Tody-Tyrant.
After a quick restroom stop we head for lunch at the mouth of the River
Tarcoles.
The tide is at a good level for us with plenty of
mud showing. On the near shore we add Least and Western Sandpipers,
Black-necked Stilt and Wilson's Plover. More distant, but still new
are Black-crowned Night-Heron, Tricoloured Heron, Skimmer, Turnstone,
Black-bellied Plover and Sanderling. As we eat our packed lunches a
small boy weaves Alan a necklace made out of palm leaves - very nice!
The drive back takes longer as there is now more traffic
on the road but we are back by 15.15. The major disappointment is that
the swimming pool is nearly empty and refilling it has a long way to
go. Later some of the group enjoy a refreshing dip but by then others
have left to visit the saltpans.
We arrive at the saltpans at Colorado at about 16.30.
There are few waders as the tide is still out on the Gulf of Nicoya
but we are able to watch Least, Spotted and Stilt Sandpipers, Willet,
Whimbrel and Lesser Yellowlegs. The light is perfect and it is not too
hot as there is a breeze blowing. Although only a small area of saltpans,
the workers are busy. They appear to evaporate the salt by using a high
heat generated by burning wood.
At the mangrove edge Demetrio calls out a superb male
Mangrove Warbler, complete with its chestnut head. Other birds include
Yellow Warbler, Mangrove Hummingbird and Green-breasted Mango. Suddenly
we become aware of Scissor-tailed Flycatchers flying over. There are
thousands; all heading to some distant roost. They are still going over
as we leave the site.
Arriving back at 18.15, dinner is served at 19.00.
Wednesday, 26 February
Although breakfast is due at 07.00, it is ready early.
As we are all here, it is not a problem and means we can leave Solimar
earlier than planned. Our final exit up the driveway includes at least
four Turquoise-browed Motmots. Once we meet the main Pan-American Highway,
we turn northwards and then east at Canas. It is then a steady climb
up to Arenal Lake.
As we pass a wind farm, Arenal Lake stretches in front
of us. It is a huge valley, which was flooded about thirty years ago
drowning the original small town of Arenal. Being an upland lake it
is not full of birds but we spot Great Egret, Olivaceous Cormorant and
Ringed Kingfisher. It is quite windy but remains dry, which increases
our chances of seeing Arenal Volcano.
The bakery at New Arenal is the first morning stop
where we can buy coffee and cakes. The road soon becomes bumpy with
many unmade sections. Two good sightings in very quick succession are
for a Jaguarundi, spotted by Derek and a Fasciated Tiger-Heron by Leslie.
Other birds include Yellow-faced and Blue-black Grassquits, Northern
Rough-wing Swallow and Passerini’s Tanager.
At the end of the lake we stop on the dam to look
at the volcano. Although the summit is in cloud, we are lucky as often
the whole volcano is obscured. You can see the smoking fumeroles and
on occasions there are big boulders bouncing down the upper slopes.
We eat our sandwiches at the base of the active volcano.
After lunch it is soon time to stop at an ice cream
parlour in Fortuna. This is the only site of the tour where we usually
see House Sparrow and they duly oblige. The countryside changes quickly
with the agriculture becoming more intensive. We pass through large
acreages of casava; other crops include bananas, papaya and sugar cane.
We at last see fields of black beans, which helps answer the mystery
of where they are grown. Brief stops include for Red-winged Blackbird,
Bronzed Cowbird and a pair of Bay-winged Hawks. Several Grey Hawks are
also spotted on the roadside wires.
We arrive at Selva Verde lodge at 15.45 and are soon
in our rooms. The whole thing is set in nice gardens surrounded by a
mixture of primary and secondary forest. The rooms are set in blocks
of four and are on stilts and from all of those allocated to us you
can hear the waters of the Sarapiqui River. Later we do an orientation
walk and then most of us try one of the forest trails. As it is now
getting late, things are getting very quiet and Orange-billed Sparrow,
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan and some Little Blue Herons are the best we
can manage. We retire to our rooms; most of us taking advantage of the
complimentary tea and coffee and meet again for a 19.00 dinner.
Thursday, 27 February
Erick, our guide, is waiting at the dining room to
meet us. Before many of us have even made our tea and coffee, Rosemary
finds a Sunbittern that gives tremendous views. It is not only near
but also right out in the open.
We walk up to reception and watch a patch of forest
below us. Birds seen include White-collared Manakin, Black-cowled Oriole
and Buff-rumped Warbler. In a distant high tree we scope a Snowy Cotinga.
The time passes speedily and it is soon time to go back for breakfast.
The main walk is over the road to the butterfly garden.
First we locate a Louisiana Waterthrush feeding on the exposed rocks
at the water's edge. Once in the butterfly garden we encounter lots
of birds including Variable Seedeater, Cinnamon Becard and Black-faced
Grosbeak. The surrounding gardens are full of flowering heliconias and
stem gingers. Our route takes us into some primary forest where there
is a party of Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers. Later we stop just beyond a
small pond that has a Spectacled Cayman in. There are many hummers in
the area and these include White-necked Jacobin, Blue-chested Hummingbird,
Little Hermit and Red-footed Plumleteer. Above us, we watch the spectacle
of thousands of migrating Turkey Vultures. Erick informs us that they
are about a week or so earlier than the usual first migrants.
Returning in time for lunch, a siesta is called. Janet
and Rosemary brave the river and enjoy their swim. At 15.00 we walk
down the main road and take an unmade side road that takes us through
an area of cassava and cattle pastures. Our first stop is for an unco-operative
Bay Wren, which although near, proves very difficult to see. An Ochre-bellied
Flycatcher is easier. Derek locates a Banded-backed Wren, the first
of a number of sightings of this smart species. Later we see Thick-billed
Seed-Finch, Olive-throated Parakeet and Violaceous Trogon, among others.
We are lucky with the weather as a breeze keeps the temperature down.
Once we have turned around we find Striped Cuckoo and Short-billed Pigeon.
All day we have managed not to let Peter know that
we are all aware that it is his birthday. This evening we are able to
surprise him with a card and a big birthday cake. As a treat, he starts
the checklist, but after sheet one, he is relieved of this responsibility!
Friday, 28 February
The early walk is back to the butterfly garden. Mealy
Parrots are very active this morning and we see our first Grey-chested
Dove. A Chestnut-headed Oropendola flies by but is missed by many of
the group. After a prompt breakfast we set off eastwards at 07.30.
A few large lorries hold us up but we still reach
Virgen de Socorro in under an hour. Unusually the weather is very hot
with few clouds in the sky. Our first viewpoint overlooks the steep
valley that is covered in primary forest. At the moment the road is
being improved but we do not need to worry about disturbance. It is
difficult but rewarding birding and we add Yellow-bellied and Olive-sided
Flycatchers, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis and Collared Trogon. A Black-chested
Hawk shows well against a blue sky. As we walk down the hill we spot
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, Silver-throated Tanager and Slate-throated
Whitestart. A female White-ruffed Manakin returns to her favoured bush
on several occasions but only Brenda sees the male.
Once at the bottom of the valley there is quite a
bit of noise and activity with several working machines. The big bridge
is over the Sarapiqui River, which at this point is a fast flowing,
boulder-strewn stream. Immediately we find a pair of Black Phoebe perching
on the rocks in mid-stream. A little sidetrack takes us nearer the water
to look at two Torrent Tyrannulets and a pair of American Dippers. Later
we find the nests of both species.
Santiago has brought the bus right down to the bottom
of the valley and this therefore saves us climbing back out of the valley.
Just up the road is Vera's Cafe, which is a house, overlooking the San
Fernando Waterfall. There are hummer feeders here, which are visited
by a number of species including Green Thorntail and White-bellied Mountain-gem.
We finish the drive at the La Paz Waterfall that has
an impressive amount of water coming over it. Above the torrent Erick
spots a Green-fronted Lancebill and another Torrent Tyrannulet. Further
up the road there are two Yellow-thighed Finches. We arrive back at
14.45 and break for an hour or so before re-boarding the bus.
Erick takes us to an area of pasture just beyond the
entrance to La Selva. We walk out into a field that is slightly swampy
and holds many Northern Jacanas, Great Egret and Little Blue Heron.
We are soon watching Red-breasted Blackbird that only colonized the
area two years ago. It is probably a new Costa Rican bird for any Ornitholidays
party. Later Graham finds American Purple Gallinule clambering about
in a low bush. Other birds include Blue Ground Dove, Yellow-rumped Warbler
and Roadside Hawk. It is a pleasant change to be birding in an open
area and we all enjoy the experience. Arriving back at 18.00 we follow
our usual evening timetable.
Saturday, 01 March
A slight change in our early morning pattern involves
a short drive to the entrance of La Selva. This is a long driveway that
can be excellent for birds and offers a good field of view. The weather
is overcast and raining slightly when we alight from the bus.
Despite this being the last day of the holiday there
are plenty of birds to keep our interest. Two overflying Collared Trogons
are a catch up for Ann and we soon see three species of saltator. Other
species include Plain-coloured and Crimson-collared Tanagers, Pink-billed
Seed-Finch and Scaled Pigeon. Two Green Ibis are a good find and we
scope an immature Hook-billed Kite. Breakfast calls and we return to
our lodge that is fifteen minutes down the road.
Returning to La Selva, we pick up our local guide
who is called Jimmy. There is a suspension bridge to cross but it takes
us a while to reach it as we are slowed down by Rufous-winged Woodpecker,
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher and White-winged Becard. Once in the forest
all the paths are made of concrete and it is therefore easy to tread
quietly. One of the first finds is a Little Hermit sitting on her nest
at the end of a heliconia leaf, the leaf shelters her from the rain
that is now falling. Later we see White-breasted Wood-Wren and White-necked
Puffbird. On our return to the area of laboratories we find White-vented
and Yellow-crowned Euphonias.
The majority of the group returns for a third and
final visit and we start by walking a side path of the driveway. It
is an exciting start as we locate Chestut-coloured Woodpecker, Crested
Guan, Great Antshrike and Yellowish Flycatcher. The guan sits about
fifteen feet above our heads and gives amazing views. Later we walk
into the forest; here the best bird is a scoped Green Ibis. As the rain
steadily gets heavier we return to the bus, wet but satisfied.
Sunday, 02 March
Overnight the rain has passed. As we do not leave
until 08.00 there is plenty of time to pack. Some birding in the beautiful
grounds includes such diverse species as Sunbittern, Wood Thrush, Mealy
Parrot and Orange-billed Ground-Sparrow
We commence our journey back to San José at 08.15
and head back up the road past the La Paz Waterfall. The dominant crop
on the first part of the journey is ornamental plants for the American
market. Later we pass large areas of coffee plantations before we drop
down the valley side to San José and the international airport.
The plane leaves on time and we arrive at Miami forty
minutes early.
Phil Jones
Ornitholidays
29 Straight Mile
Romsey
Hampshire
SO51 9BB
Tel: 01794 519445
E-mail:
Ornitholidays@compuserve.com
April 2003
Our next tours to Costa Rica are from the 16 January to
01 February 2004, led by Simon Boyes; 13 February to 29 February 2004
led by Paul Rogers. The cost per person in a twin/double-bedded room
is £2,799.00 and £3,099.00 per person in a single room.
Our dates for 2005 are 14 January to 30 January
led by Tony Pym and the cost per person in a twin/double-bedded room is
£2,899.00 and £3,199.00 per person in a single room.
Weather and Itinerary
16 February San José, Finca de los Quetzales
and Savegre. Cool but sunny 63°F
17 February Tiskita. Hot, sunny and humid 90°F
18 February Tiskita.Hot,sunny and humid 86°F
19 February Tiskita. Hot, sunny and humid 90°F
20 February Tiskita to Monteverde via San José and Orotina. Hot
and sunny 84°F
21 February Monteverde incl. Cloud Forest Preserve. Cool, cloudy,
drizzle in morning, sunny later 66-80°F
22 February Monteverde incl. Finca Ecologica and Santa Elena. Warm
and sunny 66-85°F
23 February Monteverde to Solimar. Very hot and sunny 96°F
24 February Solimar incl. Estero Madragal. Very hot and sunny 91°F
25 February Solimar, Carara, Tarcoles River and Colorado saltpans.
Very hot and sunny 90°F
26 February Solimar to Selva Verde via Arenal. Hot and sunny, cloud
midday onwards 86°F
27 February Selva Verde and local area. Hot and sunny 92°F
28 February Selva Verde and Virgen de Socorro. Hot and sunny 93°F
01 March Selva Verde and La Selva. Overcast with some heavy
showers 82°F
02 March Selva Verde to San José. Warm and sunny 84°F
© Ornitholidays
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