ORNITHOLIDAYS TOUR TO TANZANIA

Ngorongoro and the Serengeti

6 April to 17 April 2002

A Personal Diary by Tony Pym

Brochure

Saturday 6 April

An early flight from Heathrow to Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam necessitated an alarm call at the unearthly hour of 03.00 in the Pym household. The journey along the M4 motorway early morning was relaxed, with few cars, and took at least half-hour less than the same trip during the working day.

In Terminal Four at Heathrow Roger, Jeremy, Ron and Doreen were already queuing for the KLM check-in when I arrived at 0445. Apparently there was a computer glitch and check-in was going slow. We passed through Security into the Duty-Free and Departure area but there wasn't much spare time for shopping. Soon we were underway on the first leg of our journey, our flight was airborne on time at 06.35. Amsterdam was only a fifty-minute journey. We walked to our next gate for our connecting flight to Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. David M. (Moore) was already at the gate, having arrived directly from Newcastle. Soon, we were joined by David W. (Wigglesworth), who had stayed in Amsterdam overnight, having flown from Newcastle yesterday evening. The party was now complete. The Boeing 767-300 was to take just over eight hours to fly to Kilimanjaro. Some of us caught up on lost sleep after our early start.

We landed at Kilimanjaro at 20.00 local time and passed through the immigration formalities very quickly to collect our luggage. Outside Andrew Uronu and Typhon Kappia were waiting – these were their full names but we were to call them simply Andrew and Kappia. They would be our guides for the duration of our holiday in Tanzania. We loaded the Landrovers, and commented that the two vehicles looked ideal for our forthcoming safari. Soon we were on our way to the Ngarasero Lodge on the slopes of Mount Meru. Driving in the dark, we didn’t see much of the countryside, though Jeremy saw the first good bird  – a brief view of a hunting Barn Owl.

We checked into the lodge and were taken to our rooms across the lawns from the reception. Dinner was taken in a nice dining room, with one large polished table laid out for our arrival. After dinner we drank tea and coffee in the lounge where a log fire smouldered. 

We retired to bed after a long day. Tomorrow would be our first early start and the introduction to East African birding.

Sunday 7 April

We met Andrew and Kappia at 06.30 for an early morning birdwalk before breakfast. It started raining as we were about to leave but it wasn't heavy and we set off down the garden trail towards a lake within the lodge grounds. A pair of African Fish Eagles called loudly from riverside trees, on the water were Little Grebes, and African Jacanas lived up to their other name, Lily-trotters, and were walking on floating vegetation. The reeds and surrounding scrub held both Black-headed and Taveta Golden Weavers. We tried hard to see a Green-backed Camaroptera – this first one was uncooperative, had we only realised that we would find them easy later in the day!

We returned to the lodge. From the veranda we watched Brown-breasted and White-eared Barbets against the skyline in a large dead tree and decided it was time for breakfast.

We packed and our luggage was taken to the vehicles for a scheduled departure at 09.30. However, this was delayed when one of the hotel staff found a superb African Wood Owl. The owl peered intently at us from its daytime roost and allowed itself to be photographed at close range.

We set off for Tarangire, a two-hour drive if one drove there without stopping, but not for us birdwatchers - we were to take nine hours! Our two Landrovers were excellent, having plenty of room for the group and our entire luggage. I gave David W. in the second vehicle a hand-held walkie-talkie, which was to prove excellent in ensuring that everyone in both vehicles got straight onto any birds called!

Our first day in the field meant lots of stops as new birds were coming every few minutes. We stopped at some small pools with ducks, and found a number of waders here that hadn't yet begun their migration north. Soon we were crossing open plains where White Storks were still in good numbers before they also were to migrate, and where Fischer's Sparrow Larks were common alongside the road. We pulled off the road to eat our packed lunches inside a small wood - Black-crowned Tchagras and Spotted Morning Thrushes were boisterous inhabitants, whilst overhead a Brown Snake Eagle put in an appearance and White-rumped Swifts shot by.

We reached the Tarangire Park gates where Kappia sorted our entrance tickets and we found Green-winged Pytilia and Arrow-marked Babbler. Inside the park the activity was now more intense. Francolins and Spurfowl walked the dirt tracks and most bushes had something perched on top for us to look at. Shrikes stood sentinel on what seemed like all prominent perches - Fiscal, Magpie, Red-backed, Lesser Grey, and White-rumped were common here. We saw our first large mammals when a group of Giraffe, here the Masai subspecies, crossed a gap in the background foliage followed by two Elephants.

We arrived at Tarangire Safari Lodge, located within the National Park. The lodge had our 'tents' ready and waiting for us. These were very comfortable with bedroom, and separate shower and toilet attached. We met again for drinks before dinner and started our first checklist - it was to take quite a while, with much discussion on today's great start!

After dinner we retired, in anticipation of what would await us tomorrow?

Monday 8 April

After early morning tea and coffee we left the lodge at 06.45 to drive some of the tracks of the park. As the sun rose and it got progressively lighter so more birds were being seen. A Striated Heron looked odd perched on top of a bush seemingly far from water. A herd of Giraffe and a lone bull Elephant moved in the distance. Soon we had approached a river where Lesser Striped Swallows were in abundance and nesting under the bridge. Hammerkops flew down to the water's edge and one was seen to catch a fish.

Along the track edges many francolins and spurfowl walked and fed in the morning sun often only moving at the last moment to get out of the way of one of our vehicles. We stopped to watch two delicate Pygmy Falcons, an attractive little raptor, seen on the tops of a dead tree, used as a lookout for their prey of insects and small reptiles.

We had brought a packed breakfast with us this morning. We stopped along one of the tracks where Bee-eaters were flying over, mostly European Bee-eaters gathering to head north, their far-carrying fluid calls obvious in the still morning air. A lone Blue-cheeked Bee-eater put in an all too brief appearance – we would have to find another, as this is a ‘tick’ for many of the group. Tawny Eagles were now taking advantage of the first thermals, and a well-marked Honey Buzzard showed all its fieldmarks and was a model for the species. In the denser grasslands we found White-winged Widowbirds - this is a species that associates with the rains (a precursor of what was still to come in Tanzania). A number of falcons were seen this morning and debate ensued on the field identification of Hobby, African Hobby and Lanner (and a particular bird seen in strong sunlight and at a distance!).

We stopped to photograph an Elephant at the river on our return to the lodge for lunch. Today a buffet was served and a little time was allowed for a ‘siesta’ in the heat of the day. Some of the group took it easy whilst others were around the gardens, either photographing or finding more birds. It was relaxing just to sit outside the tents viewing the flood plain below that extended for miles. In the distance a lone Saddlebill Stork could be seen fishing and two Waterbucks crossed the river.

We collected together at 15.30 for an afternoon drive. Soon after leaving the lodge more Elephants were seen in the distance, so we turned onto a small track to overlook where they were grazing. Forty-two were counted here, peacefully foraging in the long lush grass. It’s always a marvellous sight, a memory of Africa, to see a large herd of Elephants. A Silverbird was catching insects from the track ahead of us. This rufous and grey flycatcher stayed long enough, using the same bush as a perch, for our second vehicle to retrace its route to come and see it. Interesting to note that the males and females of this colourful flycatcher are identical. 

We drove on, and a small party of Green Wood Hoopoes flew over the track ahead and we watched as they fed gleaning from the tree boughs. One stop proved particularly productive - David W. found a Brubru and in the same tree a Greater Honeyguide sat typically motionless. It took time for everybody to get onto this bird as it sat very still. This species is known to lead Honey Badgers (Ratels), and even people, to bees’ nests.

Vervet Monkeys were feeding on the grass seed heads alongside another track and Olive Baboons sat confidently high up on the fronds of two palm trees. Although precarious these trees were to be their sleeping place for the night. Just along from here a splendid juvenile Martial Eagle was seen tearing at its prey.

As we crossed the bridge heading back for the evening we disturbed a Fish Eagle, down at the water’s edge, on the stones in the river. This stop was timely as two Water Dikkops had now awoken - it was dusk and time for them to start their ‘day’.

Dinner tonight was a barbecue, as well as food from the buffet. We called today’s log – the high number of species today, plus discussion on them, meant we started before dinner and finished after!

Tuesday 9 April

An optional early morning birdwalk was offered before breakfast where most of the group caught up with Slate-coloured Boubou and Red-chested Cuckoo.

After breakfast we checked out of the lodge and were soon on our way. We drove slowly out through the park by a different route, passing mixed habitat of woodland, scrub and open grasslands. A group of six cuckoos were seen together and turned out to be European Cuckoos, gathering to migrate. During our tour we were to find more of these small groups gathering together, not something I realised occurred with this species. We stopped at the park entrance to checkout and found that a small pool, the overflow from a dripping tap, was being used for drinking and bathing by a number of finches. These included Green-winged Pytilia, Black-throated Canary and both Red-cheeked and Blue-capped Cordonbleus. Nearby a Banded Parisoma was found low in the branches of a tree, and unconcerned by the attention we gave it, was active only a few feet above our heads.

We reached the main tarmac road and a few miles further on were surprised to find a Zebra and a few Wildebeest alongside the highway. This was one of the old migration routes, and a few animals still revert to their traditional trails, which lead them unfortunately into conflict with farms and urbanisation.

We turned off onto a poor temporary road where a new road was under construction, the cost being met by the Japanese as a form of aid. Red Bishop and Black-winged Bishop, both in breeding plumage, were in a small reedbed alongside the road and Jeremy found a solitary Red-headed Weaver. Two Red-and-yellow Barbets performed well, courting on top of a tree.

Soon we were at the entrance gates to the Lake Manyara Park. We ate our packed lunches here whilst watching Blue Monkeys which, in turn, watched us hoping for titbits to be discarded. Once inside the park the birdlife was excellent - we notched-up eight species of cuckoo and saw the superb Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, a localised species within Tanzania. Seen from both vehicles, even after frustration for those in the second Landrover that the birds had flown..…thankfully they were refound just a little further down the road.

We soon had the lake in sight. The surrounding plains had lots of Giraffe, and here and there were Zebra. A few Warthogs ran off with tails pointing straight up at 90º like antenna. The lake was alive with birds. In the distance we could see the pink glow from hundreds of flamingos, closer were the pelicans, whilst the smaller pools held the waders. A notable count was 50+ Black Herons, with many feeding in typical 'umbrella' mode, with their wings spread out as shade, their heads underneath to see fish out of the sun’s glare. There were many new species for our triplist.

We left the park and started the climb up into the highlands towards Gibbs Farm. This would be our base for the next two nights. In the car park a Bronze Sunbird feeding on blossoms welcomed us. Soon we had checked into our rooms and met again for dinner. 

The birdlog was called in a small private room, which is planned to become the lodge’s library. 

Wednesday 10 April

Early morning was very different here from Tarangire! We were higher and at 06.30 it was misty and damp. We decided on two walks today - a welcome change from being in the vehicles and a chance to stretch our legs. Both walks would be within the property of Gibb's Farm.

We set off after breakfast. The walk took us from the lodge along a trail through forest and up higher towards a ridge and waterfall. The birds were different as we were now in the 'highlands'. White-tailed Blue Flycatcher was a good find, as it has a very limited distribution in Tanzania, and a pair of Thick-billed Seedeaters was observed nest building. A Grey-capped Warbler proved furtive as it kept to the low undergrowth. White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher competed for insects with African Paradise Flycatchers and a gaudy Schalow's Turaco just didn't stay long enough in view for everyone to enjoy.

As we slowly got higher the view opened before us. Some good raptors came past our viewpoint; six Eurasian Hobbies, with some mobbing a 'Steppe' Buzzard and then an immature Verreaux's Eagle. A Black Goshawk added to the aerial mayhem.

Ron and Doreen made it all the way to the waterfall whilst the rest of us were dawdling. They caught us up on the way back downhill as we returned for a buffet lunch at the lodge. We agreed on a 'siesta' until 16.00, which gave everyone a little time to relax and enjoy the lodge grounds. Some went off with their cameras, while others took it easy relaxing in chairs and loungers placed on the lawn overlooking the view. Garden birds included the cheeky White-browed Robin-Chats, showy Bronze Sunbirds and various weavers including Holub's Golden Weaver.

Our second walk in the late afternoon took us along the forest edge. We walked the firebreak that separated the lodge and the forest. It was most unusual to see Tambourine Doves so well - a male courting a female walked in and out from the undergrowth at the edge of the track. A Lemon Dove, another new bird for the trip, came out and, it too crossed the path. It began raining heavily, and we retreated back to the lodge just before dusk.

Another pleasant dinner was followed by the log call.

Thursday 11 April

It was raining very heavily during the night. In early morning we needed the umbrellas that had been placed handily inside our rooms, for the walk to the breakfast room. After breakfast and checkout we loaded the luggage for our next journey in the itinerary. As we drove down from the highlands some asked if it would be raining in the Ngorongoro Crater, but this would be unlikely.

Ahead today laid the famous Ngorongoro Crater – a memorable place, no matter how many times one has been to Africa before. At the entrance gate to this ‘conservation area’ we stopped for the normal formalities and spent a few minutes birding, watching Brown-headed Apalis, African Dusky Flycatcher and Broad-ringed White-eye.

As we drove up and along the crater rim it was still wet and slippery but soon the first blue sky was showing through. A number of Red-collared Widowbirds were on the upper grasslands and were seen displaying with ridiculously unbalanced tails drooping in flight. A Verreaux's Eagle came over the ridge followed by an Augur Buzzard.

We stopped at a viewpoint to look over, and into, the large caldera of Ngorongoro as it spread out below. The world-famous Ngorongoro Crater is a designated World Heritage Site and was once a gigantic volcano perhaps taller than Kilimanjaro. When the volcano collapsed, a vast bowl, the caldera, was formed. It measures more than 20 kilometres across and is ringed by an amphitheatre of steep 500 metre-high walls. It is one of the most perfectly formed, and certainly the most spectacular, calderas on the planet. There is only one exit and one entry point into the Crater itself. The drive down was brilliant for the scenery as well as the animals and birds. ‘Schalow's’ Wheatears flew over the track ahead of us and Malachite and Golden-winged Sunbirds flitted between bushes.

Soon we were down on the lower levels - the plains of Ngorongoro. Herds of Thompson's Gazelles grazed, mixing here and there with Hartebeest. Soon Zebra, Elephant and, the special one for this park - Black Rhinoceros - were tallied. We saw seven Black Rhinos – Tanzania has a population of only some thirty in total of these primitive oddities, and we had seen one-quarter of them.

Our lunch stop was at a recognised picnic site, one of the few places in the park where anybody is allowed out of the vehicles. As if by magic, birds and then monkeys arrived thinking there might be a treat in store: a morsel of food. Two monkeys really became a problem as the first jumped into the Landrover and made off with a banana, and the second jumped from a tree bough and shot into the second vehicle through the open roof hatch!

As the rhinos were quite some distance away from any tracks we decided to head towards the lake. Kori Bustards strolled imposingly through the grasslands mixing with large numbers of White Storks and a surprising amount of Grey-crowned Cranes. We stopped at some smaller pools to see Squacco Herons, Spur-winged Geese and yet more waders. The soda lake was simply spectacular with thousands of flamingos shimmering pink in the sunlight. More migrant waders were around the edges, feeding up, not ready yet for their journeys north. We watched as a jackal tried his luck, thinking he might creep up stealthily on the flamingos in the water, but he was on a loser all along. Here, in front of us, was one of the sights of Africa that we had all come to see - the lake, its flamingos and all around the plains animals.

As we drove to leave the park for the day we passed Black-bellied Bustards and three species of harriers were quartering the grasslands. A pride of lions were seen in the distance, but they would have to wait for tomorrow as the park gates closed at 17.30 and we were already late!

We drove to our hotel for the night, the Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. Situated on the volcano rim this was the most 'luxurious' so far, and each room had a panoramic view of the caldera below.

Tonight’s dinner was more formal than to date. Staying here were more tourists, although we were to find that we still didn’t see many others whilst in the Crater. A local dance troupe performed after dinner. Roger, Ron, Doreen and myself watched the show for a while but concluded it wasn’t very good overall - more ‘for the tourists’ than being traditional.

Friday 12 April

Those birding before breakfast saw Tacazze and Golden-winged Sunbirds in the garden, both impressive, colourful species with long tails. White-necked Ravens were wandering around the swimming pool and a few Black Kites circled overhead.

After breakfast we drove slowly down the crater descent road. Little Bee-eaters swooped from roadside bushes after insects, and sunbirds fed on flower heads.

The route chosen today by Andrew and Kappia took us past larger herds of wildebeest than yesterday, and amongst them were the gazelles, both Thompson's and Grant's. Eurasian Cuckoos were again found in groups, often five or six together, and just like the Hobbies and Swallows were preparing for migration. Some cuckoos were seen feeding on large caterpillars they were finding without difficulty in extensive yellow flower fields. One bird was an oddball – normal grey plumage but with a completely brown head! We spent some time confirming a Cisticola in open view was a Winding Cisticola as we suspected and then headed for another of the declared picnic sites for lunch.

Today's picnic was in the company of a horde of Superb Starlings waiting for titbits, only to be robbed by ridiculously tame Rufous-tailed Weavers that walked between our feet. If anyone tried throwing a larger piece of cake or sandwich it would be caught mid-air by the supreme aerobatics of Black Kites.

After lunch we drove the tracks. We found two very unconcerned young male lions along the road edge. We had to drive around them, literally, and even watch that our tyres didn't go over a tail. They weren't bothered at all and just lifted a head now and again in disdain. Everybody should have some good photos!

Not much further down the track Andrew saw in the distance a Cheetah. The heat haze made the view poor and it was at some distance. By chance a little later, another Cheetah was found much closer, and this time could be seen well. We stopped for a while here, as a small stream and marsh had Long-toed Plovers amongst the Sacred Ibis, and a Black Crake scurried between the stream vegetation. A Lappet-faced Vulture looked enormous as it glided over our heads.

Cheetah

The grasslands were magical with Zebra and Buffalo herds. Now and again a harrier would be seen gliding low to the ground, tilting one way then the other. We continued on, and headed towards a known pool for Hippos. A Comb Duck was at one pool and four Collared Pratincoles on the mud close to another.

The sky became gradually darker and we could see that rain was approaching. Soon it had become heavy with thunder and lightning and we agreed it was time to return to the lodge. It was to be quite an entertaining return journey as the roads quickly flooded and the Landrovers were slipping and sliding! At times the windscreen wipers couldn't clear the rainwater fast enough.

We reached the hotel and had time for a shower before the log call scheduled for 19.00. During dinner tonight some of the lodge staff sang for the guests in the restaurant - they were very good and a distinct improvement on last night!

Saturday 13 April

A superb drive took us along the crater rim. Sunbirds, shrikes and now and again the bright colours of a turaco as it flew from cover one side of the road to the other. We stopped at another viewpoint overlooking the crater. Today it was bright and sunny, very different from yesterday afternoon, and we could see where we had driven over the last couple of days. Andrew pointed out our stopping and picnic spots in the distance. Roger picked out a rhino, probably five miles away down in the crater!

We left the rim and continued over rolling plains. The Masai bomas (settlements) looked interesting and attractive but most in this area were for the Ngorongoro tourists to visit (and they charge admittance accordingly!). Hundreds of White Storks were feeding in fields carpeted with yellow flowers (Hippicium diffusum). We stopped for White-bellied Bustards and Yellow-throated Sandgrouse, both new for the trip. Occasionally Giraffe were seen, strolling in small herds and feeding on the Acacia trees.

We stopped for lunch at the Oldupai Gorge. It was here that Professor Leakey and his wife Mary discovered the fossilised bones of our earliest ancestors - a skull, maybe two million years old, and the later discovery of footprints aged at three-and-half to four million years old (which proved that early man walked upright on two legs). One of the staff gave a short talk after which we looked around the small museum housing a display and some bones (but the more important were now in the museums in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam).

Our journey soon took us onto the Serengeti Plains. Grassland stretching as far as the eye could see. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse were in small flocks, and Black-winged Plovers were found amid the much more common Crowned Plovers. It seemed as if Montagu's Harriers, in a variety of plumages, appeared every few minutes. The antelopes, gazelles and the Wildebeest numbers started to increase as we headed further into the Serengeti.

Soon a block of woodland came into view - we were close to Ndutu Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Ndutu. Maybe the immature Martial Eagle seen perched on top of a large dead tree was checking the new visitors arriving? Fischer's Lovebirds flew between trees, screeching noisily, as we entered the lodge grounds. This was to be our accommodation for the next three nights.

We gathered for dinner, sat a while with a cool beer in the lounge and watched genets! Yes, here inside the lodge we counted ten of these beautiful animals, admittedly coming to food left for them but they were wild and came and went, as they liked. David M. reminded us that these belong to the civets and mongooses, and are not cats, which they resemble.

After dinner we sat outside around a campfire and admired the African night sky.

Sunday 14 April

We had an early start this morning, leaving the lodge at 06.30 after quick cups of tea and coffee. We took a packed breakfast with us so as to be out on the plains before the heat of the day become too intense.

In the lodge car park Grey-breasted Spurfowl walked around like farmyard chickens - this is a Tanzanian endemic and virtually confined to the Serengeti. The woodland echoed with a symphony from doves. A juvenile Gabar Goshawk came hurtling past one of the vehicles to perch on top of an acacia. Another raptor, but this time a large eagle, didn't perform so well, but it was either an African Hawk-Eagle or African Crowned Eagle on account of the rufous on its underwing. We did see very well however the other member of the Melierax genus (Chanting Goshawks) - Dark Chanting Goshawk – identified with its pink red cere.

We entered the plains and soon found the first, of three, Bat-eared Foxes. It didn't seem troubled by our vehicles, whereas those I've seen in the past have run at the first sight and sound of anything suspicious. 

On a high vantage point we stopped for breakfast. Four Yellow-throated Sandgrouse flew overhead and could be identified initially on their large size alone. The yellow throats then being seen on two as they landed.

After food and refreshment we continued driving over the grasslands when Andrew spotted in the distance some Lions under a tree. We had found a pride of seven. I have seen Lions with mange, other skin conditions and various ailments in the past but these were in very good condition. The male was eating the remains of a kill, a Zebra. Andrew and Kappia believed the animal had been taken in the last twenty-four hours (but as it smelt somewhat, we wondered otherwise?)

We returned for our lunch at the lodge. Just outside, and in view of the dining room, there was a small drinking pool built specially for the birds. Fischer’s Lovebirds were joined by White-bellied Canaries, Cut-throat and Grey-headed Silverbill.

Double-banded Courser

There was time for a siesta before our next safari at 15.30. This drive took us to Lake Ndutu. On the way Double-banded Coursers hurried away anxiously from our approach only to stop again suddenly to look back at us. Thousands of Lesser and Greater Flamingos were on the lake, and through the scopes we found hundreds of Black-necked Grebes (yet these are described as being of ‘erratic occurrence in Tanzania’). Many migrant shorebirds were still here and Chestnut-banded Plover was new for most.

Leaving the lake we drove alongside a small river. Secretary Birds were seen on both sides of us and yet more coursers – they did seem common in this area. Mammals included at least three groups of Bat-eared Foxes and then, quite unexpected, we came across three male Lions sitting alongside the dirt track! We had found our own Lions again, in an area with no other tourists.

Secretary Bird

We returned to the lodge for dinner. English fare tonight prepared just for us - rhubarb crumble and custard!

Monday 15 April

We had another early start again, so as to be in the field just after daybreak. We had left the lodge by 06.30. Today we passed through the woodland quickly so as to get onto the plains. A couple of Hoopoes flew alongside the vehicles as we approached the grasslands. Stretching ahead of us for miles in each direction was the Serengeti. From here, the plains went 70 kilometres to the north and to the west. The Serengeti ‘conservation area’ is much larger again, at 160 kilometres each way.

Both the vehicles were driving off-road. The lead vehicle came upon a Lanner Falcon tearing away at what looked like a dove. Both vehicles stayed with this bird, as it was only metres away on the ground. It was superb, and occasionally would stare keenly back at us, yet so engaged on the kill it stayed feeding.

We started coming across more and more Kori Bustards as we drove on. Andrew then commented that vultures were descending in the distance and we headed towards a likely kill. When we got there the Spotted Hyenas were tearing at the remains of a Zebra. Fifty or more vultures, of four species, were in attendance, squabbling and lunging at each other for any part of the feast. Two jackals came into the throe also, but it was the hyenas that ruled the proceedings.

Wildebeest numbers were very impressive on the plains, as lines of animals would trail back into the distance. To be amongst so many animals, thousands in number, was exciting. It is reckoned that one and half million Wildebeest are on the Serengeti/Mara plains.

Small groups of Yellow-throated Sandgrouse were found – this time close to the vehicle and some even photographable. We spent time trying to sort and identify some of the larks, succeeding with Red-capped, Rufous-naped, Short-tailed and Singing Bush Lark.

As we headed back to the lodge for lunch a call on the radio from Kappia in the second vehicle alerted us to a Cheetah kill. We turned back to see that two Cheetahs had brought down a young Wildebeest. The Wildebeest was still breathing when we arrived and was being held at the throat by one of the Cheetahs. It soon succumbed. We watched as the Cheetahs, panting hard, then started to drag their kill to cover and out of the sight of other predators. Imagine the surprise to see from my vehicle that the 'cover' was to be the second vehicle, inside was Roger, Jeremy and both the Davids. The cats passed right under their noses, too close even for their cameras to focus. The Cheetahs dragged the Wildebeest under the back of the LandRover and commenced tearing away at the flesh. Here they had security and immediate protection from hyenas, or from the eyes of any vultures overhead. When we had to leave we started the engines and both Cheetahs jumped, left the kill for only a few moments but then immediately returned to it. They were now out in the open again, but had already eaten a very good snack without disturbance.

We drove down a slope, maybe only a few hundred metres from the Cheetahs, to find two Lions under a tree. A few yawns and a stretch from them - would they smell the kill just up the hill and chase off the Cheetahs?

It had been a good morning’s drive!

Lunch was served, followed by a siesta for a couple of hours. We agreed on meeting again for a late afternoon drive at 16.00. We left the lodge and this drive took us towards another lake, called Lake Masek. Two Spotted Dikkops were found and we identified a further Cisticola - Stout Cisticola. We watched an incredible display by a Lilac-breasted Roller as it dived, to then climb again vertically to intentionally stall and then fall backwards!

Lake Masek was another soda lake. There were a few flamingos as to be expected, but here all were Greater Flamingos. A few Little Stints and Ruff were found feeding around the edges. Hippopotamuses were on the far banks where fresh water entered the lake.

We drove through forest scrub on our return to the lodge. A Red-fronted Barbet stayed too briefly in view for everyone to see, but pair of d’Arnoud’s Barbets (clearly of the usambiro form) were more obliging.

Tonight was our last dinner together in Tanzania, and Ornitholidays’ ‘farewell dinners’ traditionally include wine with our compliments. This one was to be no exception! We completed a bird log for the last two days – we had now seen (or heard) some 350 species in nine days, pretty good going!

Tuesday 16 April

An early morning birding walk around the lodge grounds had David W. catching-up on African Goshawk and Roger on Red-faced Crombec.

After breakfast, time had been allowed for packing as this was our final day in Tanzania, and we were to start our long journey back to England. Andrew and Kappia had the vehicles loaded by 09.15 and we set off. We had allowed plenty of time on the Serengeti plains, and for four hours we drove cross-country without seeing any road. We stopped to identify yet another Cisticola, this time Rattling Cisticola, which had a very distinct three-note song ending with a loud 'churrrrr'. We found Temminck's Coursers favoured one particular short-grazed area and the count here reached into double figures.

We headed east, and soon were leaving the Serengeti and onto the gravel road. A small pool alongside the road had three Plain-backed Pipits strutting around, their jizz reminding me of Tawny Pipit. One vehicle was very lucky to see the distinctive shape of a Steel-blue Whydah as it passed over them and out of view.

We pulled off road to find our lunch stop. Roger and Ron went for a ‘pit stop’ only to find a Giraffe looking at them from the adjoining field.

We drove on, taking the Ngorongoro crater-rim road, and then to Manyara. There was a pleasant surprise to the published itinerary. Gibb's Safaris, our ground handler, had chartered a ’plane to take us from Manyara to Arusha - this would save about three hours of driving. We said our goodbyes to Andrew and Kappia at the airfield - they had driven 1200 kilometres since we started the holiday with them ten days ago, and had shown us the birds and scenery of Tarangire, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro and the Serengeti.

The Cessna single-engine 12-seater arrived ahead of schedule and we boarded for the twenty-minute flight. The ’plane gained altitude and we looked back over the African plains. Small Masai villages with their thatched huts could be seen below.

At Arusha we waited a few minutes for our next vehicles. Two further Landrovers had been hired and took us on a forty-five minute drive from Arusha, the third largest town in the country, to Kilimanjaro Airport. We could see, on our left, Mount Kilimanjaro  - it was in cloud but for a few moments we saw one side of the mountain with its snow covering.

We had arrived early at the KLM check-in, and before the main rush. Soon we were through Emigration and into the departure lounge. Our flight departed on time at 21.30, but our routing meant first we had to fly southeast to Dar es Salaam, before heading then north towards Amsterdam. Our flight time was nine hours, travelling through the night so hopefully most of the group got some sleep.

Wednesday 17 April

In Amsterdam, both David W. and David M. bade us farewell, as their flight would be going direct to Newcastle. For Ron, Doreen, Jeremy, Roger and myself we had time for a snack before the onward flight to London. This flight was to take only forty-five minutes, and we arrived ahead of the scheduled time although a bay was not ready for the plane and we waited on the tarmac for a further quarter hour.

We said our goodbyes to each other at the baggage carousel. Our final journey was now to our homes.

Tony Pym
Ornitholidays
29 Straight Mile
Romsey
Hants
SO51 9BB
Tel: 01794 519445
E-mail: ornitholidays@compuserve.com
June 2002

Our next tour to Tanzania is from the 03 – 14 April 2004 and will be led by Nigel Jones.  The cost per person in a twin/double-bedded room is £2,699 and £2,899 per person in a single room.

Itinerary and Weather

© Ornitholidays

Full trip list and commentary (pdf)

Brochure