Specialist Birding Tours to Peru, Brazil, Chile and Bolivia.

Northern Peru , June and November 2002

In 2002 TOUCAN TOURS took two trips to North Peru with the first departure in June, and the second (a private group) in November. The birding on this circuit on both tours was as always, excellent. Differences in the bird list for the two trips were few but the omission of the Orange-throated Tanager section (due to reasons beyond our control) in November, meant that many tropical species were missing in that month’s tour. In November we decided that we would replace the ‘Tanager Days’ with a hike up the Rio Chido trail and extra time near Abra Patricia

Leader: Eustace Barnes.          Co-leader: Colin Bushell.

June 1: Arrival in Peru. Overnight in Lima.
June 2: Early flight to Chiclayo. Day exploring coastal desert sites.
June 3: Batan Grande area. Continue to Olmos.
June 4: Arid forested canyons near Olmos.
June 5: Drive to Jaen, birding Andes en route.
June 6: Morning birding in Tamborapa and Jaen before continuing to Bagua Chica.
June 7: Into the humid forested foothills of the Maranon towards Oracuzar.
June 8: Full day birding near Penas Blanca.
June 9: Return to Bagua Chica.
June 10: Birding the Utcubamba Valley to Pomacochas.
June 11: Full day in the temperate zone near Abra Patricia and subtropics near Pomacochas.
June 12: Abra Patricia and Aguas Verdes.
June 13: Aguas Verdes and Abra Patricia.
June 14: Return to Pomacochas.
June 15: Morning birding the Pomacochas area before moving to Leimebamba.
June 16: Temperate zone birding near Abra Barro Negro.
June 17: Abra Barro Negro a.m. and then descend into the Maranon Valley to Balsas.
June 18: Birding the valley before climbing to Celendin
June 19: Paramo and roadside scrub birding en route to Cajamarca.
June 20: Full day birding in the valleys near Cajamarca.
June 21: Flight from Cajamarca to Lima with connections to the US and UK.

During our June tour we visited our ‘old’ Peruvian Plancutter site at Rafan. These birds were found quite readily as were other specialities such as Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Necklaced Spinetail, Superciliated Wren and Coastal Miner. We found our first Peruvian Pygmy-Owl here as well. The coastal locality of Puerto Eten was also only visited on the June tour and this was quite productive with a Waved Albatross although we failed to find any Peruvian Thick-knees in the surrounding fields.

The relatively new (at least to us!) birding site at Batan Grande was visited on both tours. As well as plantcutter we saw the following interesting species: Andean Condor (June), Rufous Flycatcher (December only and excellent views), White-tailed Jay, Necklaced Spinetail, Collared Antshrike and Tumbes Tyrannulet.

Moving inland towards Olmos two sites in particular are worthy of attention. The deep canyons with arid scrub and low stature thorny forest in this region are the home to the endangered White-winged Guan. During the two tours we spent 3 full days in the area as well as two half-days along the track to El Tocto in search of species characteristic or endemic to the ‘Tumbesian endemic centre’. Surprises came in the form of a pair of Grey-capped Cuckoos in June at El Tocto but perhaps the Tumbes Tyrant seen in the same area in December was even more desirable. This (and the canyons) is a good area to see Elegant Crescentchest, especially in early December when we found this little skulker to be very vocal. The White-winged Guans were seen on both attempts. Again these birds were more vocal in December although pairs had successfully fledged young in the previous month. We were shown the vacant nest near to a roost-tree of a Peruvian Screech-Owl that performed well with a little ‘enticement’. Other interesting birds seen in the canyons included Common Potoo, Tumbes Swift, Baird’s Flycatcher, White-headed Brush-Finch, Red-masked Parakeet, Tumbes Hummingbird, Tumbes Sparrow, Guayaquil and Scarlet-backed Woodpeckers, Ecuadorian Trogon, Black-capped Sparrow, Short-tailed Woodstar, Grey & Gold Warbler, Tumbes Pewee and Cinereous Finch. Nearby wetlands held a party of Comb Ducks and scrub near the main road at dawn was the home of Scrub Nightjar.

Abra de Porculla, a low pass in the north Peruvian Andes superficially appears devoid of any birding habitat. On the highest parts of the ridge tops some remnant cloud forest and scrub can be found. Incredibly some species have a toehold here, albeit tenuous. Rufous-necked Foliage-Gleaner, Northern Line-cheeked Spinetails, Three-striped Warbler, Chapmans Antshrike, Grey-chinned Hermit, White-winged and Bay-crowned Brush-Finch were found here. On the scrub-covered slopes Black-cowled Saltators can be seen, Chestnut-crowned Antpittas could be heard (one appearing briefly) but the rarest of all the birds at Abra Porculla is in this habitat too. The Piura Chat-Tyrant is known only from a handful of sites in Peru and Porculla has proved very reliable since 1996 when we took part in an exploratory trip to the area. We estimate that we saw at least half-a-dozen individuals on both visits to the site.

Away from the Andes in the ‘North Peruvian Low’ the country surrounding Jaen is of interest to us. The rice-fields were productive with Spotted Rail and an Amazonian ‘feel’ was provided by Pied Lapwing, Collared Plover, Large-billed Tern and White-winged Swallow. The scrub-covered hills near Jaen and towards the border with Ecuador are worthy of a couple of days and we were rewarded with Maranon Crescentchest, Chinchipe and Maranon Spinetails, Tataupa Tinamou, Spot-throated Hummingbird, Maranon Gnatcatcher, Yellow-cheeked Becard, ‘Maranon’ Slaty-Antshrike, Speckle-breasted Wren, Chestnut-collared Swallow and Maranon Thrush.

Cactus desert in this area is perhaps the best chance on the route for Little Inca-Finch and we were successful on both tours with this Peruvian endemic.

Due to ‘regional disputes’ we only visited this site in June as it was out of bounds by November. The worsening road conditions during rain in June certainly make it an interesting, if arduous journey. Orange-throated Tanager is of course the highlight of a stay in the humid forested foothills of the Maranon valley and we found this species easy to locate in June. Other noteworthy birds seen here are Ecuadorian Cacique, Blackish Pewee, Vermiculated Screech-Owl and Blackish Nightjar.

We shall be investigating a recently discovered new site for Orange-throated Tanager in 2003.

Perhaps the one bird that attracts birders to this tour is in this area. The bizarre male Marvellous Spatuetail is THE bird everyone wants to see on this circuit. On both trips we were afforded great views of males feeding a flowering trees and shrubs near Pomacochas and on the Rio Chido trail. In June seeding bamboo in the valley below the town attracted flocks of Barred Parakeets as well as the rarely encountered Maroon-chested Ground-Dove. Noisy White-capped Tanagers in the remnant cloud forest patches are a great attraction here as well. Other good birds over the two tours included Rufous-tailed Tyrant, Buff-browed Foliage-Gleaner, Chestnut-crested Cotinga and Barred Fruiteater. The Chido is rather a strenuous walk due to the knee-deep mud and was only attempted in November. Pale-billed Antpitta is the target up here and we were saddened to see the site deforested on arrival. With a night in camp, we were able to survey the area quite thoroughly seeing Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucans and an excellent series of antpitta sightings. Rusty-breasted (a pair), Rusty-tinged and Chestnut-crowned were all observed at close quarters during our second tour. The November/December period seemed very good for vocalising antpittas in fact and they were relatively easily attracted to tape-playback with patience. Pale-billed Antpitta was heard in the distance on a single occasion, sadly well out of range.

The Utcubamba valley is the main access route to Leimebamba and with a few stops some interesting birds were seen namely Fasciated Tiger-Heron, Buff-bellied Tanager, Oriole Blackbird, Swainson’s Thrushes (November only), Scarlet-fronted Parakeets and Torrent Duck.

Perhaps the best single area on the whole tour. From Pomacochas it is a detour from the circuit to Abra Patricia and then on to Aguas Verdes in the tropics. The road passes through the Alto Rio Mayo reserve with a number of trails into the forests. Abra Patricia is of course famous for being the type-locality of the enigmatic Long-whiskered Owlet as well as Ochre-fronted Antpitta and more recently a new (sub)species of antvireo. It appears that to see these birds expedition-style effort is required but there is still much to see for the ‘normal’ tour groups.

In the higher temperate and subtropical elevations birds like Royal Sunagel, Bar-winged Wood-Wren, Cinnamon-breasted Tody-Tyrant and Lulu’s Tody-Flycatcher can be found. Squawking pairs of Golden-plumed Parakeets frequent ridge-top forests where palms persist and on both tours we had excellent views of the rare Orange-breasted Falcon. In June we looked down on one mobbing a Swallow-tailed Kite.......in November we had to make do with one mobbing a Black & Chestnut Eagle. With our base at the lower elevation at Aguas Verdes in a pleasant upper-tropical climate the journey from Pomacochas after seeing Marvellous Spatuletail, passing through various ‘life-zones’ is memorable indeed. Described as “the best days birding ever” by some November group members there are real ‘quality’ birds to be seen here: Olivaceous Piha, Lanceolated Nunlet, Amazonian Umbrellabird, Scaled Fruiteater, Ash-throated Antwren, Ecuadorian Piedtail, Equatorial Greytail, Lined Antshrike, Chestnut Antpitta (seen on both trips), Black-mandibled Toucan, Military Macaw and Sharpe’s Wren.

From our camp at Aguas Verdes we made night excursions seeing Cinnamon Screech-Owl, Band-bellied Owl, Lyre-tailed Nightjar and Oilbirds. Andean-Cock-of-the-Rock can be found not too far from camp as can Ecuadorian Tyrannulet, Black & White Tody-Flycatcher and Speckle-chested Piculet.

From Leimebamba the pass at Abra Barro Negro is easily accessible. Small patches of cloud forest still exist and there is a dense understory of bamboo in some parts. On both tours we found the endemic Russet-mantled Softtail although this species was particularly difficult to find after first light on our second trip. Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan, White-collared Jay and Mountain Cacique were commonly found in mixed feeding flocks near the road whilst on one trail the stunning Yellow-scarfed Tanager and elusive Plush-cap could be found in the dense bamboo.

Leaving the cloud forests and climbing into the paramo grasslands we found Coppery Metaltail, White-chinned Thistletail, Many-striped Canastero and Blackish Tapaculo could all be found.

Leaving the wet Abra Barro Negro the road drops steeply into the deep Maranon canyon at Balsas. Descending through patches of humid forest Jelski’s and Chestnut-belted Chat-Tyrants can be seen as well as Moustached Flowerpiercer before more arid conditions prevail. The lower slopes of the valley are the home of the critically endangered Yellow-faced Parrotlet and we were privileged to see this attractive bird on both tours. On the Leimebamba side of the Maranon we found Buff-bridled Inca-Finch on both tours but this species was notably easier to find and apparently more common in November. The oasis-like woodlots on the banks of the Maranon are a good place to find Peruvian Pigeon, especially in the evening as they gather to roost. This is also a good site for the Andean Emerald and a reliable place to see Maranon Thrush, especially at dawn.

Ascending the slope towards El Limon we saw many Buff-bridled Inca-Finches on our November trip as well as more Yellow-faced Parrotlets and the endemic Black-necked Woodpecker. The homesteads in the area are good for another endemic - the Chestnut-backed Thornbird. Inexplicably absent in June but almost prolific in November, the Grey-winged Inca-Finch completes the ‘Maranon Incaspiza set’ here. Climbing higher and eventually out of the valley toward Celendin Mountain Parakeets were seen in June.

The open paramo, patches of humid cloud forest and scrub make interesting birding on this stretch. Once again we found the November trip more productive for antpittas with a singing Cajamarca Antpitta in the open for some and then another teased from cover later. We failed to get a view of this species in June and time of year may be a factor but I also presume the early arrival in the morning at the site later in the year due to the ‘reverse route itinerary’ made the difference. Baron’s Spinetail, Black-crested Warbler, Maranon Tit-Tyrant and Jelski’s Chat-Tyrant can be found in the roadside habitats and White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant can be found by examining all the ‘Black-billeds’. We found this rare flycatcher on both tours. Striated Earthcreeper can be seen in the open paramo and in the last remaining patches of Polylepis trees we found Tit-like Dacnis and Stripe-headed Antpitta.

Day excursions from Cajamarca to the Rio Chonta valley produced one of our most significant sightings of the tour. The enigmatic Grey-bellied Comet was known from ‘the Cajamarca area’ for some time. With news of some groups getting brief views of Grey-bellied Comets in this valley we decided to spend much of a whole day in seemingly promising habitat. In June we were just about to ‘about-turn’ when a Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail gave us an excuse to explore a gulley as it disappeared up it. Realising that in an apparently almost featureless valley vegetated gullies are normally a haven for birds, we decided to spend some time there. The hunch paid off as after only a few minutes a fine Grey-bellied Comet was watched feeding at some flowers at the edge of a small waterfall. This bird was still available when we returned in November with other birding groups benefiting from our discovery in the meantime.

Other excursions from Cajamarca include San Marcos for the recently rediscovered Great Spinetail and Unicolored Tapaculo.

For anyone with a fascination for endemic species this is arguably one of the most fulfilling tours, it certainly competes well with Brazil’s Atlantic Forests very strongly as one of my favourites!