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Algarve and Alentejo, May - June 2007,
I flew into Faro on the 30th of May, and returned to the UK on the 6th of June. My Hotel was in a medium sized resort, Monte Gordo, which is at the Eastern end of the Algarve, about 6 kilometres from the Rio Guadiana and the Spanish border. Between the resort and the border town of Villa Real de San Antonio is a dune pine complex; this is much used by walkers, runners and cyclists, but it is protected and is being managed, so it made a good place for an evening stroll after the hottest part of the day and before supper. Apparently it has Chameleons, but I didn't see any (even though I looked). The weather was warm for the first couple of days, with temperatures in the mid-twenties, and it became hot from the middle of the holiday until the day I left, hot being in the mid thirties. I relied heavily on Jon Hardcare's Summer Birding on the Central Algarve; even though his book is concerned with July and August it is a useful guide to sites, and being only twelve months old is still accurate about site access and so on.
Wednesday May 30th.
I arrived at Faro after a totally sleepless night at Luton, so all I did was
get into my rented car and drive to Monte Gordo; even though I wasn't birding
Azure-Winged Magpie was an inescapable feature of the scene. After
a refreshing couple of hours sleep I went for a walk in the dune pines by
the resort. Here I saw Sardinian Warbler, a very brief over-flying
Montagu's Harrier, and numerous examples of the curious Iberian race irbii of
Long-Tailed tit. I won't go into detail of every walk in these woods,
but over the week they produced Crested Tit, Short-Toed Treecreeper, Northern
Wheatear (on the seaward edge) and sharpei Green Woodpecker.
Thursday May 31st.
To Castro Marim in the morning; even in late May and June it's important to
get in an early start and plan to be done by mid-day; nothing stirs for about
four hours from 12:30 or so. This was a very rewarding place. Spoonbills
were flying in as I drove down the track, and Monatgu's and Marsh Harriers
were obvious. A couple of hours birding produced Little Bustard (a
displaying male and a distant female), Curlew Sandpiper, Greenshank, Grey
Plover and Stone Curlew, as well as large numbers of Woodchat Shrikes,
Bee-Eater, Black-Winged Stilt and the rest. A juvenile Great-Spotted
Cuckoo on the hillside by the track out of the reserve was a first for me;
this small area of trees has Magpie, which is presumably the attraction for
the Cuckoos.
Friday June 1st.
To the N125 between Castro Verde and Mertola; Alentejo. This is a superb
area, and well worth the ninety minutes drive from Monte Gordo. The toll
motorway is very good, almost devoid of traffic and cost me 5 euros in total,
so well worth taking. The main reason for visting was of course the Great
Bustards, and I picked up four (three females and a male) from a farm track
near San Marcos de Ataboeria, but not on the Bustard Reserve; there was a Little
Bustard calling off the same track and I flushed a Quail. The area is
rich in birds, with Red-Rumped Swallow, Montagu's Harrier and White Stork being
present in large numbers. Once the road enters the Guadiana Natural Park
on the way to Mertola Booted Eagle becomes a frequent roadside distraction;
keep your eyes on the road! I visited Minas de San Domingo in a search
for White-Rumped Swift, but saw only Griffon Vulture and some superb Golden
Orioles.
Saturday June 2nd.
Was mostly being a tourist, but a brief return visit to Castro Marim produced
Little Stint and this time three juvenile Great-Spotted Cuckoos right by
the side of the road, in almost the same spot as the singleton had been on
the Thursday. The brief ferry ride to Spain produced numerous Squacco
Herons on the mud banks next to the river, Gull-Billed Tern and three Slender-Billed
Gulls. I visited Quinta de Marim on the Rio Formosa in the evening,
but this was a waste of time, really.
Sunday June 3rd. Got in the car early and drove off to the Coto Donana. This took me about two hours, but a word of warning; the approach road to the vistor centre at El Rocio also leads to a couple of beach resorts; by the time I left to head back to Portugal traffic on this road was stationary. This vist produced the only Greater Flamingo of the holiday, plus the first Nightingales. Warblers were in good voice, with Savi's, Cetti's and Reed in evidence. Black Kite, Black Tern and Whiskered Terns were just too numerous to mention, but I saw only one Roller and none of the real Donana specialities; it got too hot by midday for me to contemplate anything but an air-conditioned drive back to the hotel.
Monday June 4th.
Back to Alentejo, hoping for better views of the Bustards. No such
luck, instead though I had three Black-Bellied Sandgrouse flying over the road
near the bridge a couple of miles east of Castro Verde. Calandra Lark
and Spanish Sparrow were also new for the trip, but no Black-Winged Kite. I
detoured to Pulo do Lobo; be warned this is at the end of several kilometres
of unmetalled road, and involves steep hills to boot. Well worth it for
the only Black Stork of the trip, as well as Black-Eared Wheatear, Crag Martins
and the only White Wagtails I saw.
Tuesday June 5th.
To Parque Ambiental at Vilamoura and Falesia Marsh. The Parque Ambiental
is a lot bigger than I expected, and proved shadeless and surprisingly difficult
to navigate. On balance it was worth visiting, producing Purple Heron,
Hobby and Common Waxbill, but no Masked Weavers or Purple Gallinules, as well
as a fledgling Woodchat Shrike swallowing a Cicada a few feet from me. Falesia
Marsh was fairly quiet, but I did have superb views of Purple Heron to round
off the Holiday.
Species List
Little Grebe Common in all suitable habitat
Great-Crested Grebe Parque Ambiental
Cattle Egret Numerous in Alentejo, and odd individual encountered practically anywhere
Little Egret Less numerous than Cattle Egret, but plenty about
Squacco Heron Banks of the Guadiana at Castro Marim from the ferry to Spain
Purple Heron Park Ambiental and Falesia Lagoon
Grey Heron Castro Marim and El Rocio
Greater Flamingo El Rocio
White Stork Numerous in Alentejo, but plenty on the Algarve, many on nests
Black Stork One flying into and out of Pulo do Lobo
Spoonbill About twenty present at Castro Marim
Mute Swan A real surprise this; two flying up from the Guadiana at Ayamonte on the Spanish side
Mallard Everywhere in suitable habitat
Pochard El Rocio and Park Ambiental
Griffon Vulture Minas de San Domingo and Pulo do Lobos; both places in close proximity to large Spanish populations
Booted Eagle Common roadside bird in the Guadiana Natural park
Black Kite Small numbers in the Algarve, fairly comon in Alentejo, very numerous at El Rocio
Marsh Harrier Throughout in suitable habitat
Montagu's Harrier Throughout in suitable habitat, numerous in Alentejo
Common Buzzard Near Castro Marim and at El Rocio (both singles)
Sparrowhawk Dune pines near Monte Gordo
Lesser Kestrel Reasonably frequent in Alentejo; there is a colony at Mertola but I didn't see any in the town
Kestrel Throughout
Peregrine One flying over road near Castro Marim
Hobby One at Parque Ambiental
Red-Legged Partridge Everywhere
Quail Heard in suitable habitat throughout; one flushed from side of track in Alentejo
Moorhen Throughout in suitable habitat
Coot Throughout in suitable habitat
Little Bustard Two at Castro Marim; one heard displaying in Alentejo
Great Bustard Four in Alentejo near San Marcos de Ataboeria
Avocet Very many at Castro Marim
Black-Winged Stilt Numerous at all suitable locations
Stone Curlew Castro Marim
Kentish Plover Numerous on sandy beaches, even on busy resort beaches at Monte Gordo
Grey Plover Three at Castro Marim
Sanderling Castro Marim
Dunlin Castro Marim and Quinta de Marim
Curlew Sandpiper Single at Castro Marim
Little Stint Single at Castro Marim
Redshank A few at Castro Marim
Greenshank Single at Castro Marim
Black-Tailed Godwit Ten at Castro Marim
Curlew Heard at Guadiana
Slender-Billed Gull Three on mudbanks on the Guadiana
Yellow-Legged Gull Ubiquitous on the coast
Little Tern Common in suitable habitat with a notable colony at Castro Marim
Sandwich Tern Guadiana from the ferry
Gull-Billed Tern Guadiana from the ferry
Caspian Tern Over the Guadiana from the northern edge of Castro Marim
Whiskered Tern Numerous at El Rocio
Black Tern El Rocio
Wood Pigeon Dune pines near Monte Gordo
Collared Dove Common in towns and villages
Turtle Dove Common in suitable habitat
Cuckoo Dune pines at Monte Gordo
Great-Spotted Cuckoo Castro Marim
Swift Common in suitable habitat throughout; less so at the coast
Pallid Swift The commonest swift at the coast
Hoopoe Ubiquitous except in the most built-up parts of towns
Bee-Eater Common and obliging, can be encountered almost anywhere outside built-up areas
Roller El Rocio
Green Woodpecker Dune pines at Monte Gordo
Crested Lark In suitable habitat throughout, even tourist beaches (above tide line)
Thekla Lark Frequent in Alentejo
Calandra Lark Pair in Alentejo
Barn Swallow Ubiquitous
Red-Rumped Swallow Alentejo only, though common enough there
House Martin Throughout in suitable habitat
Sand Martin El Rocio and Parque Ambiental
Crag Martin Pulo do Lobo only
White Wagtail Pulo do Lobo
Yellow Wagtail Castro Marim and Monte Gordo
Wren Throughout in suitable habitat
Stonechat Throughout in suitable habitat
Black-Eared Wheatear Approach to Pulo do Lobo
Northern Wheatear Seaward side of dune pines Monte Gordo
Nightingale El Rocio and Parque Ambiental; very many singing in both places
Blackbird Common in suitable habitat in Algarve, less so further North
Garden Warbler El Rocio
Orphean Warbler Dune pines Monte Gordo
Blackcap Fairly common throughout
Sardinian Warbler Abundant everywhere; singing and obliging
Reed Warbler El Rocio
Great Reed Warbler In song at Parque Ambiental and Falesia Lagoon
Cetti's Warbler Common in suitable habitat
Savi's Warbler El Rocio
Melodious Warbler Parque Ambiental
Zitting Cisticola Abundant in suitable habitat eveywhere
Spotted Flycatcher Dune Pines Monte Gordo
Great Tit Suitable habitat throughout
Crested Tit Dune Pines Monte Gordo
Coal Tit Dune Pines Monte Gordo
Long-Tailed Tit Can be seen in suitable habitat throughout
Woodchat Shrike Abundant; the common shrike of the area
Southern Grey Shrike Reasonably frequent in suitable habitat
Azure-Winged Magpie Common in rural areas; can be seen almost anywhere out of built-up areas
Magpie Castro Marim
Jay Odd birds seen, mostly while driving (me, not the Jays)
Carrion Crow Faro Airport
Raven Alentejo and Castro Marim
Spotless Starling Fairly common, especially in Algarve resorts
Golden Oriole Seen at Minas de san Domingo, but heard in suitable habitat throughout
House Sparrow Ubiquitous and abundant
Spanish Sparrow Near nesting storks in Alentejo
Tree Sparrow El Rocio
Chaffinch Common in suitable habitat
Goldfinch Abundant throughout
Serin Quite common, often in towns
Greenfinch Very common throughout
Common Waxbill Parque Ambiental
Corn Bunting Common in Alentejo
There are some notable ommissions; for example
I can't account for the lack of other buntings, as Rock and Cirl Bunting
are both present in similar areas in Spain, but I didn't see them. I also didn't try for any of the
night species, so there are no owls or nightjars in my list; however I
have seen Red-Necked Nightjars in dune pines in Valencia and would consider
it very likely that they are in the similar habitat at Monte Gordo.
John Knight, Weel, Beverley UK
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