We have previously visited Southern Portugal for 1 week at the end of May 2000 and 1 week at the end of April 2002.

On all occasions we used "A Bird watching Guide to the Algarve" by Kevin & Christine Carlson and "Southern Portugal " by David Gosney, both copies were quite a bit out of date by 2004.

We also used downloads from the internet & found Gruff Dodds report September 1999, David & Nancy Massies report March 2001, Stephen & Pat Kings report June 2002, Trond Haugskotts report June/July 2003, all very useful, of these as commented by Trond the Massies report was good for instructions on how to find the various sites though some directions had changed by 2004.

In line with the Massies advice, if you are thinking of visiting the Algarve for birds make your visit soon, as building developments in the form of Resorts, Marinas and Golf Courses are taking over many of the better birding areas, which seem to be given little or no protection .

We noticed changes between 2000 and 2002, but by 2004 the acceleration of change was remarkable.

Sites visited in 2004

Vilamoura

We stayed in Vilamoura and made several morning /evening visits to a reed-bed with some open water crossed by a bridge near Praia de Falesia, if you take a right turn from the dual carriageway heading into Vilamoura from the west, signed Praia deFalesia you will cross the bridge , if you reach a petrol station before you turn right you have missed the turn ( all observations were made from this bridge.)

Parque Ambiental Vilamoura

Leave Vilamoura to the west on dual carriageway, when you reach the roundabout at the end of the dual carriageway do a U turn back towards Vilamoura, take the first turn on the right, then look out for a track off to the left, go down this, you will see a Golf Course on your right and eventually a Water Works on your left, just before the Water Works is another left turn into a smaller track with a sign on the left which indicates you are at Parque Ambiental. This says no motor vehicles beyond this point (we drove down on our second visit). The Water Works fence is on your right, when you come to the end of the fence there is a crossroad in the tracks, if you park up here and walk right (I would not advise driving the ground is very rough,) you will come to a notice board with a map of the Parque, if you walk or drive left you will come to a hide over a pond as shown on the map, but on our visit the view was obscured by reeds. We wandered over a large area of the Parque on two visits and thought it was totally neglected and looked to have been set aside as a reserve and now forgotten.

Ludo

We got to Ludo by going into Faro by car and following signs for the Airport, then picking up brown signs for Praia de Faro, before you reach the causeway to the beach look out for a pair of gates on your right blocked by tree stumps and a near-bye stone notice saying Ludo Privado, park up here and walk along the path through the gates viewing the pools, or turn the car about and take your first left going back along the road, when you come to the first bend in this road take a left down a track with a sign on the left saying Entrada e saida de viaturas ( Entrance & exit of vehicles) and another sign on the opposite side of the road Prohibido vasar entulho (something like Prohibited to trash vehicles.)

Continue down this track until you come to a open gateway which Gosneys book says is always open , I suggest you park up just before these gates or just inside (more room) if you are brave enough, we weren't .

When you pass through the gates after a small amount of woodland you come to salt pans on your left, good birding, carry on down the wide track and just before a house on your right is a small lake.

The private signs at either end of Ludo are a cause for concern, but all the time we were in the area cars passed by as did joggers and a large group of cyclists.

We asked some British ex-pats who said "ignore the signs everyone does, but park your car outside."

While we were on the main track past the salt pans in Ludo a police minivan passed us twice, the police driver returned my wave with a wave and a smile so I don't think you will get into much trouble if you stay on the main track, on foot.

Faro Airport Water Works.

Drive into Faro look out for signs to Montenegro, drive to the central roundabout, second left should take you towards the Airport, take a track putting the Airport perimeter fence on your right, some Water Works should come into view on you left, viewing is through a wire mesh fence and landing aircraft are low above your heads.

Armaco de Pera

Our favourite site over three visits to the Algarve but if it survives the building developments on the Albufeira side it may become a shadow of its former self. Other British birders who have visited Pera before, British ex-pats and two Portuguese birders who visit Pera regularly were all dismayed by the nearby building works & beach projects, also the low water level in the reserve, which they seem to think is being drained, although the marsh is EEC recognised.

We made our way to Pera marshes by heading west on the 125, after the roundabout for the Zoo Marina, look out for signs on the left to Pera , signs for Algos on your right are an indicator. The first Pera sign on the left is difficult to spot in time, but take the second down a narrow street through Pera, head straight ahead don't turn left into the centre. After you leave Pera you will eventually come to a roundabout, take the second right signed Carlos Bar (road works from Albufeira to this roundabout on our visits) follow this road onto a track, when Carlos Bar is signed to the right carry straight on down the track to the beach car park, you will see Pera Marsh on your left, this side of the marsh is best viewed in the evening.

For morning viewing when you reach the roundabout after Pera village take the road to Albufeira, third road exit off the roundabout, (road works in this area on our visit,) look out for Golf Course signs to your right after about a mile, turn right towards the Golf Course and thread your way through the new building developments to the beach, where you will see a wooden beach bar building and car park. Park up and walk west past the mouth of the river which normally doesn't breach the sand dunes into the sea. Follow up the opposite side of the river and you are in the Pera reserve, eventually you will arrive at one of the strangest hides I have ever seen.

Quinta do Lago

Go into Almansil off the 125 look out for a white on blue sign listing around a dozen places, one of which should be Quinta do Lago, follow up these signs, you should eventually come to a series of numbered roundabouts, 1 to 6 set around some Golf Courses, at the last roundabout you will see a covered water side parking area, park up here, parking fees may be charged. Walk east along the Ria Formosa and after about a mile you will come to a track with a no vehicle entry sign leading past a Golf Course, along this you will see a raised hide looking over an ornamental lake on a Golf Course, good for Purple Gallinule, Red-crested Pochard and Little Bittern.

If you follow this track past the hide I am told you will eventually come to Ludo, but we have never tried this trip.

Dunas Douradas

Two small costal ponds near Almancil, look for the white on blue signs in Almancil follow up Dunas Douradas signs, thread you way through the Dunas Douradas housing complex next to Vale do Lobo, the ponds lie next to the Ria Formosa between two beach bar car parks.

Alvor Estuary

Gosneys directions from 1995 "Southern Portugal" still hold good, once onto the track if it's the right one you soon cross over a railway line. Further down on you right at Cruzinha is the A Rocha Observatory and Ringing Station where visitors are made welcome on Thursdays, sometimes demonstrations of bird ringing and birdwatching tours round the estuary are available. Your questions on the Natural History of the area can also be answered.

Odelouca Valley

Go inland to Silves and take the 124 west towards Porto de Lagos, after the village of Odelouca, look out for a bridge over a river, pull in here and check for birds. Take first right past the bridge onto a road running roughly up the river, pull in wherever possible and check the river and riverine woodland. Much fire damage occurred on the higher slopes during August 2003.

Fioa & Monchique

Further inland from Silves this area was good for mountain and woodland species but was again devastated by fire in August 2003, it is now showing some signs of re-growth in May 2004, but we found a distinct lack of some species of birds such as RockBunting, Woodlark and Dartford Warbler, previously easily seen in this area.

Cape St Vincent and Sargres

Both at the extreme west end of the Algarve, follow the 125 through Lagos west onto the 268 to Sagres then on to the Cape.

Ria Formosa Reserve

Take the 125 east through Faro and Olhao after leaving Olhao look out for a signed right turn to Ria Formosa Reserve near a petrol station on the left, cross over a railway and watch out for entrance gates on the left, a small charge is made for entry Euros 1.50 per person.

Fuseta

Again past Olhao east bound on the 125, go past the Fuseta sign on your right to get you to the east side of the river, see Kevin & Christine Carlsons instructions "A Guideto the Algarve" The lane described takes you down to a fish farm and some salt pans, don't miss the rear salt pans as you will have difficulty viewing them from the main track.

Tavira

From the 125 take any lane to the Ria Formasa just before Tavira, follow the coast road into the town, you will pass by lots of marshes and salt pans.

Castro Marim

Take the IP1 or 125 into Castro Marim, get onto the 122 towards Mertola and Beja look out on the right for signs into the reserve. Once in the reserve park up in the car park and walk up the hill towards the weather station, not the reserve centre, you will get good views over most of the reserve from here.

Mertola

On the 122 north from Castro Marim, if you can pull off the road on the left just before the road bridge going into Mertola, walk a short way down the banking with great care, this gives you a good view of the river valley, bridge and Castle, in a short while you should see Lesser Kestrel at the right time of the year.

Mina de Sao Domingos

Near Mertola, is credited with a few breeding pairs of White-rumped Swifts.

Pulo do Lobo

Turn right of the 122 north of Mertola, following the brown signs for Pulo do Lobo, which has some woodland and is near the sorce of the Guadiana River.

Budens & Luz reedbeds

Like Massies we were unable to find these reed-beds they may have been swallowed up in the building developments.

Alentejo

We followed the directions in Massies report, having got lost on both previous visits, but add the following comments. The IP1 towards Lisbon is now a toll road, though this did not appear to be indicated until you reach the toll booths. You take a ticket here and pay on the slip road as you leave the IP1. Take the first junction off the IP1 signed Ourique & Castro Verde not the second as suggested by Massies, probably rationalised due to cost of building toll booths. Charge around Euros 4.40. If you took the second turn off at Aljustrel you would still go through good birding country to Castro Verde and the toll would be Euros 6.60. Later in Massies directions a paragraph starts:

Return to the main road and turn left, then immediately right down the road signed Alcarias, we believe this should now read, Return to the main road and turn left, then second right to Figuerinha.

The Alentejo does not at the moment suffer from the gross building developments of the Algarve.

Species List

1. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
1 seen on the lake at Ludo.

2. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Almost any pond or marsh, often several pairs depending on the size of the water.

3. Little Bittern Ixobrychus minutus
1 at Quinto do Lago. 1 at Dunas Douradas. 1 at Vilamora Falesia Bridge.

4. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Are Common, as expected often around cattle sheep and goats.

5. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
3 in breeding plumage, dropped into the edge of a reed-bed just before dark, at Vilamoura Falisia Bridge.

6. Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Common, in all wet areas.

7. Heron Ardea cinerea
Odd birds in most suitable habitats, with up to c10 at Pera.

8. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
1 to 3 usually seen at Vilamoura Falesia Bridge.

9. White Stork Ciconia ciconia
Breeding pairs scattered around in suitable nesting sites, Alentejo held many pairs.

10. Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
1 or 2 on most visits to Pera Marsh.
Flock of 6 at Castro Marim.
11. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
1 on Pera Marsh.

12. Mute Swan Cygnus olor
1 on a Golf Course lake near Vilamoura.

13. Shelduck Tadorna tadorna
1 at Castro Marim.

14. Mallard Anas platyrhyncos
Common in all suitable habitat.

15. Gadwall Anas strepera
Common at Quinta do Lago and Pera Marsh.
Also seen at Dunas Douradas.

16. Shoveler Anas clypeata
2 to 3 pairs seen at Pera Marsh.

17. Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
40+ at Quinta do Lago.
1 at Castro Marim.

18. Pochard Aythya ferina
8 males and 2 females seen at Quinta do Lago.
8 males and 1 female seen at Pera Marsh, other females may have been incubating ?

19. Black Kite Milvus migrans
1 at the side of the IP1 towards Ourique.
c6 in the Alentejo.

20. Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
2 pair near Vilamoura Falisia bridge.
2 birds at Parque Ambiental Vilamoura may have been some of the Falisia Bridge birds.

21. Montagus Harrier Circus pygargus
Common in the Alentejo.
Seen at Castro Marim on both visits.

22. Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
1 from the IP1 near Ourique. 2 in the Alentejo.

23. Short- toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
2 in the Alentejo. 1 in the Odelouca valley. 1 near Sargres.

24. Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
1 near Albufeira male.

25. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni
6 to 8 males identified in the Alentejo several female Kestrels seen but not fully identified.

26. Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa
Several in the Alentejo.

27. Quail Coturnix coturnix
Heard calling from most fields and some reed-beds. 2 seen Parque Ambiental Vilamoura.

28. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Common in suitable habitat.

29. Coot Fulica atra
Common in suitable habitat.

30. Purple Gallinule Porphyrio porphyrio
6+ at Quinta do Lago. 4 on Golf Course at Vilamora. 6+ at Pera Marsh.

31. Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax
3 in one field in the Alentejo, on road to St Barbara de Padroes.

32. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Common in all suitable habitat.

33. Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
58 at Pera Marsh some breeding. 2 at Castro Marim. 2 at Fuseta Salt Pans.

34. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola
1 at Pera Marsh.  2 in ploughed field by the lookout hill in the Alentejo.

35. Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
c6 at Pera Marsh. 2 at Alvor Estuary.

36. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
1 Odeluca Valley. 2 Vilamoura Water Works.

37. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Common in suitable habitat.

38. Golden Plover Pluvialis apricaria
1 Alvor Estuary.

39. Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
A few birds on the Ria Formosa
Flock of c50 over Pera Marsh.

40. Turnstone Arenaria interpres
A few at most coastal marshes & salt pans.

41. Sanderling Calidris alba
Most coastal marshes & saltpans.

42. Knot Calidris canutus
c200 at the Alvor Estuary. 10+ at Pera Marsh.

43. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
1 at Pera Marsh. 1 at Ludo.

44. Dunlin Calidris alpina
Good numbers on all costal marshes & salt pans.

45. Little Stint Calidris minuta
1 Pera Marsh.
1 Ludo.
46. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
c20 Alvor Estuary. Odd birds most marshes & salt pans.

47. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
c30 Alvor Estuary. A few birds at most estuaries on the Ria Formosa.

48. Redshank Tringa totanus
c6 Pera Marsh.

49. Greenshank Tringa nebularia
2 Pera Marsh. 1 Ludo. 1 Castro Marim.

50. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
1 Odelouca Valley. 5 at Vilamora Falesia Bridge.

51. Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
Small numbers at Ludo, Airport Water Works, Ria Formosa Reserve, Vilamoura Water Works, Pera Marsh.

52 .Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans
Common, large numbers Alvor Estuary,Vilamoura Water Works.

53. Lesser -black Backed Gull Larus fuscus
A few at the Alvor Estuary.

54. Little Tern Sterna albifrons
a few in most coastal areas.

55. Rock Dove Columba livia
As near as you can get to the true wild ones at Cape St Vincent.

56. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Common.

57. Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur
Common.

58. Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
1 Vilamoura Falesia Bridge.
1 Vilamoura Parque Ambiental.

59. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
1 in the Alentejo.

60. Barn Owl Tyto alba
1 Vilamoura Falesia Bridge.

61. Little Owl Athene noctua
Saw 3 sat out during the day 2 of them on more than one occasion,
In the lane to the Alvor Estuary.
In the lane to Pera Marsh.
On route to Pulo do Lobo.

62. Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis
Nightjar seen over dual carriageway at Vilamoura just after dusk was probably of this species.

63. Alpine Swift Apus melba
1 Faro Airport.
c6 over Pera Marsh.
20+ near Sargres.

64. Pallid Swift Apus pallidus
Many around Cape St Vincent.

65. Swift Apus apus
Common.

66. Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
1 Odelouca Valley. 1 Vilamoura Falesia Bridge.

67. Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Ouite common small colonies in sandy banks of rivers building sites etc.

68. Roller Coracias garrulus
1 on the telephone wires on the 123 near Castro Verde.

69. Hoopoe Upupa epops
Odd birds here and there usually seen on most visits to Pera Marsh.

70. Crested Lark Galerida cristata
Most open spaces had a few.

71. Thekla Lark Galerida theklae
Identified 1, then gave up trying.

72. Short -toed Lark Callendrella brachydactyla
1 on beach near Pera Marsh.

73. Calendra Lark Melanocorypha calendra
Common in the Alentejo.

74. Crag Martin Ptyonprogne rupestris
A few pairs breeding under most bridges in the Alentejo.

75. Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Several pairs in the Alentejo.  1 pair at Castro Marim.

76. Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common.

77. House Martin Delichon urbica
Common breeding on shops and hotels in the Algarve.

78. White Wagtail Motacilla alba
1 at Pulo do Lobo. 2 in the Odelouca Valley.

79. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
3 in the Odelouca Valley.

80. Iberian Blue-headed Wagtail Motacilla flava iberiae
Breeding in the AlvorEstuary. Several at Quinta do Lago.

81. Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
Heard singing Pulo do Lobo, Alvor Estuary and near Mertola.

82. Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos
Heard singing from most heavily vegetated streams and river beds.

83. Stonechat Saxicola torquata
A few pairs in most suitable habitats.

84. Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
A few birds in the Alentejo.

85. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
2 near Mertola.
1 singing from the light house buildings Cape St Vincent.

86. Blackbird Turdus merula
Common.

87. Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus
1 Vilamora Golf Course.
1 Quinta do Lago Golf Course.

88. Fan-tailed Warbler Cisticola juncidis
Common everywhere.

89. Cettis Warbler Cettia cetti
Most wet places.

90. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus
Most reed- beds.

91. Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus
Most reed- beds.

92. Melodious warbler Hippolais polyglotta
1 seen in the Alentejo.

93. Spectacled Warbler Sylvia conspicillata
3 at Castro Marim.

94. Whitethroat Sylvia communis
1 at Pulo do Lobo.

95. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala
Common.

96. Crested Tit Parus cristatus
A few in woods near Ludo.

97. Blue Tit Parus caeruleus
Pulo do Lobo.

98. Great Tit Parus major
Most woodlands.

99. Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus
Family group at Pulo do Lobo.

100. Great Grey Shrike Lanius excubitor
Common.

101. Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
Reasonably common but not ascommon as Grey.

102. Spotless Starling Sturnus unicolor
Quite common especially in the Alentejo.

103. Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
1 near Mertola. 1 Pulo do Lobo.

104. Jay Garrulus glandarius
4 seen.

105. Azure -winged Magpie Cyanopica cyana
Common in the country side, and around human habitations, many more seen than in previous years.

106. Jackdaw Corvus monedula
Common around Sargres and Cape St Vincent.

107. Raven Corvus corax
A few seen in the Alentejo.

108. Carrion Crow Corvus corone
Several around Sargres and Cape St Vincent.

109. House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Common, large flocks seen in corn fields at Parque Ambential Vilamoura.

110. Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis
Common around Storks nests in the Alentejo.

111. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
2 or 3 seen at Dunas Douradas.
2 or 3 seen at Vilamoura Falesia Bridge.

112. Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
Seen at Pulo do Lobo, and Cruzinha near the Alvor Estuary.

113. Serin Serinus serinus
Birds singing all over.

114. Greenfinch Carduelis chloris
Quite common.

115. Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
very common.

116. Linnet Carduelis cannabina
A few seen in several localities.

117. Corn Bunting Miliaria calandra
Very common especially in the Alentejo.

118. Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus
Heard singing in the Alentejo.

119. Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephala
We saw 2 males and we belive 1 female, these bird may have been breeding as we saw them in the same area on almost all of our visits to Vilamoura FalesiaBridge. The males were bright yellow with black heads, the female looked like a female House Sparrow but was slightly smaller, cleaner cut, with a shorter tail and whiter breast, the top mandible was level with the top of the head.

120. Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus
1 escape seen, sat on the top of a lamppost in the centre of Loule.

We also made a short trip into Spain through Las Marismas to the Coto de Donana at El Rocio, birds seen en-route, Crested Tits, Montagus Harriers, Black Kites, 1 Griffon Vulture, 2 Collared Pratincoles,3 Gull Billed Terns ,14 Greater Flamingoes.

Reed-beds being filled in at Vilamoura.