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A Report from birdtours.co.uk

Independent Bird Watching in the Algarve and Alentejo area. September 18th - 26th 2004,

Author

Pearl Claydon and Alasdair Bulloch.

We never considered going to Portugal for a birding holiday, but so glad we did. We have booked our flight for next Spring.

Travel details:

We took an Easyjet flight from Stanstead to Faro. Many flight options to choose from, www.easyjet.com

Car hire organised through Easyjet, remember to get one with air con. The weather was extremely hot and sunny the whole week, with temperatures reaching 39.5ºC in Castro Verde region.

Accommodation

We recommend you organise the first night accommodation from UK. We used www.alpha-beds.com and stayed at the Maritim Hotel in Sao Raphael for the first night only. We then used local Residencia's that were clean, simple and some having stunning views. The advantage of travelling independently you can look at the room first before accepting and stay longer if you decide too, as we did on a couple of occasions. Further details will be given on the residencia's used.

Key to bird sighting areas:

L         - Ludo
R        - Rio Formosa
SR      - Sao Raphael
Q        - Quinta Do Lago
CM      - Castro Marim
VR      - Vila Real
M        - Mertola
CV      - Castro Verde
SL       - Silves
SG      - Sagres
AL      - Alvor Estuary
PM      - Pera Marshes

Guides used:

Collins Bird Guide of Britain and Europe

Gosney and Oliver: Finding Birds in Southern Portugal. Although out of date we cannot fault many of the directions and maps. It is worth buying.

Rough Guide to Portugal

Europa map with car

Road numbers seem to change without notice and it did take a little time to get used to the plethora of roads in the Algarve.

Saturday 18th September 2004

We arrived in Faro at 11:40 after a good flight. Alasdair went off to pick up the car whilst I waited and collected the luggage. Unknown to us we had to catch a mini bus to Europcar central car depot just outside the Airport.

On leaving the Europcar depot we had to turn right, reaching the airport roundabout where we took another right and made out way to Praia de Faro. We drove towards the seafront and turned left into a parking area near some recycling bins by the traffic lights. Scanning the area proved good for Plovers, Turnstones, Dunlin, Egrets and more. We didn't stay long here, as I wanted to see the Sao Raphael area, as I knew we probably would not be back there. We booked into our hotel suite, and then made way down towards the beach. On the South East side of hotel there is an area of scrub bordered by pine trees, this proved to be a little hotspot. Spotted Flycatcher, Red Rumped Swallow, House Martin, Turtle Dove, Sardinian Warbler, Zitting Cisticola, Blackbird, House Sparrow, Greenfinch, Goldfinch, Cettis Warbler, Crested Lark to name a few.

Sunday 19th

After a chaotic breakfast, we travelled to Ria Formosa (refer to Gosney guide). Travelling down the Avienda de Ayrton Senna one guessed who would live in such big mansions. After parking in the car park at the end of the drive, we took the right hand path and walked around the lake. Plenty of Egrets, Herons, Coots, Mallards, Black Winged Stilts, Cormorants and Grebe. At the East end of the lake we took the left hand path, that almost looked like it was going into someone's garden, but a yellow trail marker was present beside a gate at the top of a slight incline. Walking down the Avenue amongst some very nice properties we spotted of first Azure Winged Magpie followed by another and then families of them, they did not appear to be shy at all. The heat got too much, we had something to eat the Restaurant Do Lago and made way to the historic town of Loulé, 8 Kilometres north of Faro. We found a clean simple residencia called Iberica situated beside a petrol station. Ask for a twin and you will get to see a slightly larger room than the double (40 euros). I liked this Residencia as it was very quiet but, within easy walking distance of the bustle in the main town. There is plenty going on in Loulé and many cafés and restaurants to choose from. An ideal base for bird watchers.

Monday 20th

After breakfast we made our way to Quinta Do Lago. It is very easy to find from the residencia. Once you have reached the T-junction in Almancil turn left at the traffic lights and then right, follow signs for Quinta do Lago Hotel, (refer to Gosney). Once parked, we followed the path to the east. We spotted plenty of Kentish and Ringed plovers, Dunlin, Turns, Gulls, Egrets, Godwits and a Curlew along the shore. Once up on the path walking towards the hide. we felt this was posh birding! The pine trees certainly helped keeping us shaded, and surprisingly the hide was cool inside. We were not disappointed as Purple Gallinule, Little Bittern, White Stork, Little Grebe, Avocet, Pochard, Gadwall, Teal, Shoveler, Moorhen, Coot, Cettis Warbler were all very visible to name a few. Full list will be given at the end of the report. We walked further along the path eastwards and spotted Hoopoe and Azure Winged Magpies mixing together. Further on still, we came to some lagoons that showed many Greater Flamingos feeding furiously amongst an army of waders mainly Dunlins with the occasional Curlew Sandpiper. Often the Dunlin is confused with the Curlew Sandpiper, Broad Billed Sandpiper so for us it was worth studying the bird guides a little more closely. During a leisurely walk back to the car we watched 4 Kingfishers chasing each other over the lake beside the golf course.

We made our way the Castro Marim, there are no Residencia's in this village, so we stayed in Vila Real. Residencia Baixa Mar is situated above the taxi rank overlooking the marina towards Spain. The room was clean and simple. The shower was on the small side but the views overlooking the marina made up for this and at 25 euros who could complain; obviously this did not include breakfast.

Tuesday 22nd  September

We made an early start and visited the Castro Marim area (refer to Gosney). We drove along the track and ignoring the sign to the left with Binoculars on and travelled towards a large brown brick building ahead. Once parked in the car park we took ourselves along the path to the right and eventually up to a seat on a hillock near to a white building, you will see an information board up there. This gave us a splendid view of all the saltpans and lagoons. A Montagu's Harrier gave us pleasure as it flew over. Again plenty of waders, Greater Flamingos. Spoonbills, Caspian Terns, Cattle Egrets, Herons, Partridge, Avocet, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Tree Pipit, Southern Grey Shrike to name a few. We then drove back along a track to the signpost with a pair of Binoculars. We drove along this track to the right passing under the road bridge, towards a lake. We could not believe we were watching a European Magpie the only one we saw in Portugal, although were we in Spain? I let you decided that one! Stonechats and Shrikes adorned the wires and fences. We left the Castro Marim area and travelled on the N122 towards Mertola. We stopped a couple of times on route and watched Shrikes, Kestrels and Chats. In Mertola we booked into the Residencia Beira Rio, (45 euros with breakfast) the room clean and spacious had spectacular views along the valley and over the river Guadiana. We could see the castle out of one set of French doors. I liked area, it was quiet and peaceful hence we stayed 2 nights here. I spotted a strange looking duck on the river, which turned out to be a moscovi.

Wednesday 23rd September

After watching Azure Winged Magpies, the Moscovy Duck, Kingfishers and Wagtails from our balcony we ventured down to a breakfast, this was served in a delightful room over looking the river. The drive north and then west along the N122/123 towards Castro Verde was beautiful. We took our time, with me on lookout duties. We were rewarded with stunning close views of a pair of Great Bustard who were in no hurry to exit. They almost looked at us with contempt as they sauntered further up the field. I am sure if we had got out the car for the scope or reversed they would have flown. The area was filled with birds Spotless Starlings busied themselves in the Storks nests which appeared on nearly every telegraph pole, we saw Little Owls, Shrikes, Chats, Spanish and House Sparrows, Kestrels, Short-toed Eagle, Booted Eagle, Egrets, Black Vulture, White Wagtail, Black eared Wheatear, Cetti's and Tawny Pipit. By one of the rivers we heard what we thought was a Jay but didn't see it. It is a nice area to drive around, we visited the equivalent to English Nature site, off the N391 if using Gosney map, the site it is after the track to a large farmhouse, you need to remain on the old road, it is signposted Ecological. Don't worry if you miss the track whilst driving on the main road, carry on to the crossroads turn right to Entrades and immediately right again in front of a café. The road is a little uneven in places but we managed with care in the Seat Ibiza. You will travel opposite direction beside the new road. The visitor site will be signposted. We were told the lesser Kestrel migrate back to Spain. There is a breeding programme on this site for the Lesser Kestrel and you can visit the tower that has been made especially for the kestrels. Please support this centre so they can carry on with projects. Whilst taking a little shade beside the centre a Black Vulture passed overhead, giving us spectacular views.

We took a rather circuitous route back to Mertola trying to find Penlihos and Sao Joao. We didn't manage to see a Black bellied Sandgrouse but Shrikes always do it for me and there were plenty of passerines to keep us on our toes.

Thursday 24th September

We had a lazy breakfast and digested the previous days birding before setting off to Silves. On the outskirts of Silves travelling along the 269 towards Porto de Lago we stopped and scanned the riverbeds and lagoons. Common Tern along with Herons, Egrets, Lesser Yellow Legged Gulls, Mallards, Coots and Avocet. We visited the ringing station at Alvor estuary we knew we were too late for ringing but it was nice to see the area. We walked along the lagoons. Here were Sanderling, Bar tailed Godwit, Wimbrel, Dunlin, Knot, Egrets, Kingfishers, Willow Warblers and Avocet. We were intending to stay in Lagos but it was very noisy and busy, so we ventured over to Sagres. There are plenty of rooms for rent here. The area is renowned for surfers and campers. The reason for visiting this area was to see Raptors. Unfortunately we woke up to a mist with very poor visibility we decided to travel along to Cabo de Sao Vicente hoping the mist would lift. Along the way we had lovely views of Chough, Jackdaw and Shrike. Cabo de Sao Vicente lighthouse car park was full of Hamburgers stalls, Camper vans selling Rugs and trinkets this was 8.30 am!  We ventured back to Sagres where at least 3 coaches, passed us making their way to the lighthouse. We stopped at Sagres Fort, where an entrance fee is charged; there is a shop, restaurant and toilets. We enjoyed the views of Gannets, Cory's Shearwater, Lesser Yellow Legged Gulls, Lesser Black Backed gulls and Peregrine. A Black Redstart we nearly trod on was not prepared to move, a great delight for us to watch, much to the amusement of the visitors mainly Germans, Spanish and French. Late afternoon we travelled along to Pera Marsh what a delight this area is. Best-viewed late afternoon, with the sun behind you. I have never been so close to Dunlin, I could have picked them up. A variety of waders including Godwits, Plovers, Sanderling, Curlew Sandpipers and Common Sandpipers. A treat was seeing two White Storks at close range along with Greater Flamingos. Herons, Egrets, Grebes and Ducks. A single Black Tern gave us pleasure as it fed rhythmically up and down the marsh. You could if it was raining bird watch from your car as you can get very close to the waters edge. We liked this area very much that we visited it on the Saturday afternoon. We spent the last 2 nights in the Residencia Iberica.

Friday 25th September

Today we decided to stay local with a trip to Ludo Farm and the airport waterworks (refer to Gosney). We started from the Airport area travelling towards Praia De Faro you will come across some pine trees on your right, and the airport perimeter fence on your left. Park up here and walk to through some gates along the bank. It does say privado but we met fishermen and walkers who did not once challenge us. A smile and Olá goes a long way.

We watched Sardinian Warblers, Cetti's and Willow Warblers in the bushy area on the right as we walked along the path towards a white bungalow. Scanning the saltpans as we went along, again Waders, Terns, Avocets and Egrets. Suddenly out of the blue an Osprey came to fish. It was a pleasure to watch as it dived and missed and dived again. After many attempts it was rewarded with a big catch and flew off into the distance. The Airport waterworks was good for white storks and how they miss the planes is a miracle. Perhaps I would rather not think about it!  We spotted 14 in a matter of minutes. Other birds to note were Gadwall, Mallard, Egrets, Heron, Coots, Great Crested Grebe and Little Grebe, Caspian Terns, Little Terns and a mixture of Gulls. We made our way back to Loulé showered and got ready for a night on the town. There are a couple of vegetarian restaurants in Loulé, but we made our way to one of the local cafés behind the castle. Unfortunately the name escapes me, only the fact remains that it was opposite the only shop we saw selling different wines and spirits. Fabulous atmosphere, simple food and full of locals!

Saturday 26th September

Having bird watched all week I decided I needed a little retail therapy. We visited the hustle and bustle of the covered market that sold lots of local fayre such as homemade sweets of Figs and Almonds, Preserves, Cakes, Fish and Meat. Also there were locals traders selling pottery and leather goods. The shops in Loulé are very pleasing and any shopaholic would not be disappointed. In the afternoon we drove to Pera Marsh and watched the masses of waders. We admit even with the guide there were birds we could not positively identify, so instead of saying well it could be.. we decided to leave them out of the count. We drove back to Loulé and along the way spotted a Marsh harrier hunting over the fields. Before dinner we strolled along one of the main streets in Loulé at 7pm. There are plenty of Sparrow roosts and the song is tremendous, but be advised do not park on the main street under a tree. We spotted one car that was totally covered in mess!

Sunday 27th September

After a leisurely breakfast we made our way to Europcar depot. Our flight to Stanstead was on time, but we learnt nearly to our cost. Don't leave it to the last minute to go through passport control. Often there are only 2 officers checking passports for many flights and it can take time to get through.

Thanks to:

I thank Chris a warden our local RSPB reserve Minsmere, Suffolk for telling Alasdair about Portugal one morning during an organised bird walk. I had the flight booked that night. I also would like to thank those of you who have placed your Portugal reports on the web, we found these very informative. From reading them gave us the idea of going independently, which I thoroughly recommend if all persons are birdwatchers. If not, then package deal staying around the Albufeira area is best, with a hire car.

Note: We found it difficult to buy Dave Gosneys guide from outlets, so we ordered from buideguides on the web. www.birdguides.com

Bird sighting areas:

 

L         Ludo Farm

RF      Rio Formosa

SR      Sao Raphael

Q        Quinta Do Lago

CM     Castro Marim

VR      Vila Real

M        Mertola

CV      Castro Verde

SL      Silves

SG      Sagres

AL      Alvor  Estuary

PM      Pera Marshes

 

Birds Identified

Area Sightings

Avocet

Q, PM, SL, CM, AL, VR

Black Tailed Godwit

Q, PM

Black Vulture

Entrades

Booted Eagle

CV

Cattle Egret

CM,CV, PM, M

Coot

Q, PM, SL, L, RF, AL, CM

Cormorant

S, SL, CM, Q, A, L, RF

Corys Shearwater

S

Curlew Sandpiper

PM, CM

Dunlin

Q, SL, PM, AL, RF, L, CM, VR

Gadwall

Q, PM

Golden Plover

CM, PM,

Great Bustard

CV

Great Crested Grebe

Q, S, PM, L, RF

Greater Flamingo

CM, PM, Q, L

Grey Heron

CM, CV, M, SL, AL, PM, L,Q, RF

Grey Plover

Q

Kentish Plover

Q, CM, L, AL, PM

Kestrel

CV, Q, SR, M, PM

Knot

AL

Little Bittern

Q

Little Egret

CM,CV, PM, Q, SL, AL, M, RF

Little Grebe

Q, CM, SL, AL, PM, L RF

Little Ringed Plover

CM, Q

Mallard

PM, Q, RF, SL

Montagu's Harrier

CM

Moorhen

Q, PM

Northern Gannet

S

Peregrine

S

Pochard

Q,

Purple Gallinule

Q

Red-Legged Partridge

CM, CV, M,

Ringed Plover

Q, CM, SL, AL, PM, L, RF

Sanderling

PM, Q, L

Shag

S

Short-Toed Eagle

CV

Shoveler

Q, PM, SL

Spoonbill

CM,

Teal

Q,

Whimbrel

AL

White Stork

Q, L, PM, VR

Azure Winged Magpie

Q, M

Bar Tailed Godwit

AL

Black Eared Wheatear

CM

Black Headed Gull

Q, S, SL, RF, L, AL

Black Redstart

S

Black Tern

PM

Blackbird

SR, M

Capsian Tern

CM, RF

Cetti's Warbler

Q, CM, SL, RF, PM

Collared Dove

SR, M, CV

Common Sandpiper

Q, CM, SL, RF

Common Tern

SL, CM

Crested lark

CM, RF, Q, CV, M, L

Curlew

AL, Q

European Magpie

CM

Green Sandpiper

PM

Greenshank

CM

Gt Blacked Backed Gull

Q

Gt Spotted Woodpecker

Q

Hoopoe

CV, Q

House Martin

M, SR, L

Kingfisher

Q, M, SL, S, RF, L

Lesser Shot-toed Lark

CM

Little Owl

CV

Little Tern

Q

Northern Wheatear

CV, M, CM, Q, PM

Red Rumped Swallow

SR

Redshank

Q, PM, SL

Rock Dove

S, M, SR

Stonechat

SR, Q, CV, CM

Swallow

M

Tawny Pipit

CV

Tree Pipit

CM

Turnstone

Q,

Turtle Dove

SR

White Wagtail

CM, PM, CV

Wood Pigeon

SR, M, SL

Woodlark

S

Yellow Legged Gull

S, SL, PM, CM, VR

Yellow Wagtail

PM

Zitting Cisticola

PM

Sardinian warbler

RF, L, SR

Black Winged Stilt

Q, PM, RF, L, SL

Blackcap

Q, SR

Spotted Flycatcher

SR, Q

Willow warbler

L, RF, Q, M, PM

Pied Flycatcher

SR,

Great Tit

Q

Southern Grey Shrike

CM, CV, M, S,SL

Red Billed Chough

S

Jackdaw

M, S

Carrion Crow

CV

Spotless Starling

CV, M

House Sparrow

Q, M, RF, L, SL, PM, SR

Chaffinch

CV, SR

Goldfinch

Q, SR

Osprey

L

   

There were many other birds we could not positively identify.

   

Total count 104

 

 

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