The plan was 8 days in Cairns, 3 days in Brisbane and 7 days in Melbourne. The ticket cost us £577 from Heathrow, (excluding internal flights, which we booked on a Boomerang Pass) with Japan Airlines, change at Tokyo on the way out (after 12 hour non-stop) and night-stop in Osaka on the return (airline's choice). This ticket meant that the flight was broken up well and was far better than we anticipated, probably partly due to the vat of complimentary wine... We arrived at 0430, and our wait for the desk to open for our Hertz hire car (booked in UK at 'special rates') was spent birdwatching outside the airport with coffee and sandwiches in the soft rain. There were parrots, sunbirds, friarbirds etc. everywhere. We had 8 lifers before we'd even left the airport.

Our first stop was the Floriana Guest House on the sea front, threw the bags in, then straight off to the esplanade. Lifers everywhere. Honeyeaters, spoonbills, parrots, kookaburras, pigeons, waders, finches etc. After lunch we took a short drive to the Centenary Lakes and Botanical Gardens. It was wonderful walking through the rainforest. One of our first birds was a Great-billed Heron which is supposedly hard to find. Also we got a Butcherbird and an Orange-footed Scrubfowl. In the Botanical Gardens we sat with a Laughing Kookaburra and had a beer. Then drove back to the room for a snooze.

Day 2 and David is up at 05.00 on the seafront, watching the sun come up and the many birds on the mud. He was accosted by the well-known John Crowhurst, who virtually lives on the Esplanade, and will readily swap 'birds' and info. We spent the day around Cairns, which is a small but rather lovely place, really. Lots of backpackers, bars and restaurants, asian and eastern eat-as-much-as-you-wish stalls selling good, cheap eats, great shops and markets. They have a huge arcade with night markets which open from 16.00 to 23.00, and wandering around them, looking at Ozzie souvenirs, sucking eucalyptus sweeties, dodging Japanese tourists - all to the sound of the inevitable dijeridus is very agreeable. There are some wonderful jewellrey shops selling the worlds best opals, but Dianne thought she'd wait till later in the trip, price checking. Big mistake. We didn't find anything that came anywhere near the choice that Cairns offered. Also, since we were travelling around, we didn't want to haul David's dijeridu around with us for obvious reasons, but we didn't find any more that we could buy without re-mortgaging the house. Next time we're in Cairns, Dianne will buy her opal ring at Cairns, and David will buy his dijeridu at either Cairns or Kuranda.

Day 3 (after missing a Jabiru !!) we drove about one and a half hours out of Cairns to Julatten to a birders lodge called Kingfisher Park. (En route, we stopped at a market town called Kuranda, and we did some quality birding there, for a short time - worth a short stop). We had a food stop at a place called Mount Molloy - a real one-horse town with a lovely bakery - where somebody had stolen the horse - and while eating our butties a Blue-winged Kookaburra landed, then a Greater Bowerbird and then 2 different finch flocks. Birding at Mount Molloy is very good. Back at K/fisher Park we watched birds on the feeders - Blue-faced Honeyeater, Superb Fruit Dove, Red-browed Finch, and a Red-necked Rail. This was a very pleasant place to stay - reasonably priced, too. No food but good pub with food very close by. Late afternoon we walked around the grounds - saw Catbirds, Buff-breasted Paradise Kingfisher, robins and more rails. At dusk we sat by the stream where we saw our first wallabies. We were told that there was a platypus there - if only we could survive the insects... Well, we did survive, and did see the platypus - he popped up, had a look around and then went down again - and kept doing this, bobbing up and down like a cork.

Day 4 we visited a place called Abattoir Swamp - not too many waterbirds really, but worth a visit as plenty going on around with honeyeaters and a Red-backed Fairy-wren. We then went on a bustard hunt and we found them exactly where we were told - 9 of the beauties with views down to 10 yards. Also we saw a Pheasant Coucal and our first of many Ozzie Magpies which make delightful organ-carolling calls - several calling at once. Above we saw Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, which fly like fruit bats. Night at Kingfisher Park, saw several mammals by torchlight and also a huge green tree frog in the ladies loos. In the morning as we were leaving we saw a Noisy Pitta which was a Must See Bird. We were heading off to Cassowary House to hopefully see a Cassowary which was another MSB. On the way, we stopped at a golf course to look at Eastern Grey Kangaroos - they looked very serene, but a little odd, sitting under the shady trees all in different positions. As we arrived at Cassowary House, what should be stood hovering by the door, waiting to be fed, but a wild, adult Cassowary with a three-quarters grown chick - if indeed one can refer to such a huge bird as a chick !! They were very impressive. After a few minutes they went off deep into the forest and they did not return, so we were very lucky indeed to catch them, especially since we had planned a 200km trip down the coast to Mission Beach to see them, which we now needn't make.

There was very good birding to be had the next morning both by the house and along the road - Victoria's Riflebird, Boat-billed Flycatcher, Cicadabird, Wompoo Fruit Dove (Dianne's favourite - brilliant call), Mistletoebird and Double-eyed Fig Parrot. We drove on into the Atherton Tablelands stopping many times. Grey Goshawk, Apostlebirds, honeyeaters, lovely colourful doves. We found a very pleasant bird-infested caravan park to stay at (just south of Atherton, on the right hand side of the main road, before the turn off to Hasties Swamp - worth a mooch around the gardens if the lady will let you) and while we checked in got 3 lifers - all honeyeaters, including the brightly-coloured Scarlet Honeyeater. 3 km away at Hastie's Swamp which was covered with waterbirds - many ducks, Magpie-geese and Sarus Cranes (good bird, that one). Then just as we were leaving, the rain began. Well, Australia was very good at rain, we observed. After it had 'happened', we had a slosh around the caravan park and picked up 5 species of parrot, Black-faced Cuckoo-shrike and others. In the evening we sat by the swimming pool (which was now a small ocean), drank some lovely Ozzie wine and were joined by the usual bats and a more unusual Long-nosed Bandicoot. And the following day, still feeling slightly damp, we drove back to Cairns through the scenic tablelands. En route we stopped at several sites and saw Eastern Spinebill, Eastern Whipbird, Bridled Honeyeater, Grey-headed Robin and a Pied Currawong on a nest. We also saw that day's MSB - Double-toothed Bowerbird on a forest walk alongside Lake Barrine, which we were assured was an excellent site first thing in the morning. Unfortunately it was mid afternoon when we arrived which was a little late for the birds, but just in time for the mother of all monsoons. We tried hiding behind a large tree (which seemed to be shrinking before our very eyes), but this was hopeless, so we half ran half swam, dodging the 6 million leeches which had suddenly emerged, back to our beloved hire car. And someone (who shall remain nameless, David) had left the back window open, so we had a small pool in the rear footwell - just where the books and maps other important paperwork were safely stored. We spread all our belongings -  clothes, cameras and other precious optics around the car - just like we were at a car boot sale,  trying to sell up, and squelched back towards Cairns.

The next day was sunny, yippeee, 'cos we were booked on a boat trip out to The Great Barrier Reef. We went with Sea Star ll (Phil from Cassowary House recommended this boat, plus the kind lady from our Cairns guest house also told us it's the only one to go with, and she's been operating in the area for yonks), and even though it's a tad antiquated - get those arms swinging - it's the only one that goes out to Michaelmas Cay where you'll see Brown Noddy, possibly Black Noddy, Sooty and Black-naped Tern, plus Boobies and Frigates. It's half the price of the others who go out, (and they mainly go to Green Island which although closer, is all souveniers and touristy), plus the price includes a bash at scuba diving, which makes it probably the cheapest diving to be found in Australia - a huge bonus. We had a go, of course, but didn't really get on with it. (The 5 minute crash course didn't help, and we felt like we were operating the equipment, rather than enjoying the views), but we would try it again, and certainly recommend this boat. The crew is totally wild and insane, but their reputation is the best, and their safety awareness is paramount, and you'll remember the trip with a smile. Last but not least, this boat trip was a wonderful 'break' from the non-stop birding which the area demands - you can't eat breakfast without waving your bins around like some demented fool .....

Anyway, the following day, after visiting the local graveyard to see some Bush Stone-curlews which lurked and skulked among the tombs, we flew on to Brisbane, and the traffic was like rush hour in central London. Then we drove on to the world famous O'Reilly's Guest House, high in the rainforests of Lamington National Park. We were met by flocks of Satin and Regents Bowerbirds - they ate from our hands and sat on our heads, just like the parrots. There were doves and Brush Turkeys milling around, too. We spent the next 2 days over-eating in the excellent buffet-style restaurant. This was a fab place - at night, there were windowed sections where the various nocturnal mammals came down to feed on the feeders. The main bird at O'Reilly's was the Alberts Lyrebird, and although we gave ourselves a sporting chance, dipped on this little chappie. We did, however, find Logrunners, Green Catbirds, Wonga Pigeon, Grey-headed Butcherbird, Golden Whistler and many others. We also found a magnificent Python (which he who left the car window open almost tripped over while watching a whipbird), Northern Quoll and Walabies. Now we knew O'Reilly's wasn't cheap, since booking is a must and we were quoted the rates then, but they have various meal options which are offered when you book in. David thought it would be best to have all meals included, since we were in the middle of nowhere, and since that package only cost about £30. Error. There was a perfectly good shop on site, a perfectly good cafeteria on site, plus too late we realised with horror that the individual meals cost £30, not the package. Our food for just two days cost us £360. Drinks extra. Now, this area is well worth a visit, and O'Reilly's is a fab place to stay, but there are other guest houses and campsites around. We wouldn't go back to O'Reilly's unless the Premium Bonds comply.

Then we flew (very economy class) down to Melbourne, and headed straight out to Phillip Island, mainly to see the Little Blue Penguins, but there was so much more to see in this lovely place. Outside our hotel window we watched Little and Red Wattlebirds feeding on the flowers. On the lawns were our familiar blackbirds, starlings and sparrows, but also Galah Cockatoos, Rainbow Lorrikeets and Willy Wagtails. This was a sunday morning and as we drove quietly around the residential areas and local ponds we picked up Black Swans, Cape Barren Geese, Musk Duck, Lathams Snipe, White-faced Heron and many more. At a rocky headland with a lighthouse we enjoyed a nesting colony of Silver Gulls which we could walk through. We also saw Australian Gannet, Sooty Oystercatcher, Pacific Gull, Black-faced Cormorant and some very fat, dopey-looking fur seals. And at dusk we joined the masses and were herded like sheep to wait for the penguins. Soon, far out at sea, we could make out these tiny black and white dots which would disappear then reappear a bit closer. Eventually they reached the shore, and began waddling up the beach - they came past within a few feet - to feed their young, who were calling in the burrows under and behind the viewing platform. Wonderful to see. Then suddenly, just as the penguins were swarming up the beach, 1 million Short-tailed Shearwaters came in off the sea - like a cloud of smoke - and started calling to their chicks who were also in their burrows nearby. It was an unforgetable sight.

The next day we drove to Wilsons Promontory. Started out promising, just as we got through the reserve gate we encountered two different snakes and our first emus. After a while we saw Forest Raven and Yellow-tailed Black Cockatoos, but then it went to the dogs so we cut our losses and drove north to a town called Healesville.

Healesville is a small town north-east of Melbourne. We found a small guest-house just out of town, hidden in the forest, run by an eccentric English couple who were at least 200 years old, he being, once again, quite mad. (Are all English people like this ??) Every time we spoke to him, the conversation somehow steered towards the war. (Just like David's father). Anyway, we felt it was just the type of place bird tours would come to, and, whilst dodging missiles and bombs, we discovered that Sunbird did indeed stay there. Then the man casually mentioned that tours mainly came here to see the (Superb) Lyrebirds. WHAT ??? WHERE ??? we cried. "Oh, they're everywhere - hundreds of them. Can't miss 'em." And then he began wafting his hands all round the room. Well, the next morning (after Dunkerque), off we went on a lyrebird hunt. We had the area all to ourselves, and sure enough after a few minutes we found a lyrebird. Dianne's running around with the camera, chasing the creature around the car park, trying for the perfect shot (not stressing the bird out in the slightest) when suddenly a most strange collection of calls started from underneath a nearby bush, and what should be in there but a male, displaying with 2 females. It was simply the best, we had never expected anything like that. We enjoyed our three little friend's display for about 20 minutes, and then they got bored and wandered off. Other good birds we found were Gang-Gang Cockatoos, Yellow-faced, Lewin's and White-naped Honeyeaters, Bell Miners and Grey Currawong. That evening we went back to the lyrebird area and had a barbecue, and the lyrebirds were still there.

The following day we drove North-west to Deniliquin, one of the best places in Oz to birdwatch. We booked into a caravan park right on the river, and saw that a few people had feeders out by their vans which were attracting Galahs (by the hundred) and also Eastern and Yellow Rosellas, Long-billed Corella and Little Friarbirds. We were very much looking forward to the next day, since we had arranged to spend the day with Phil Maher, who is probably Australia's top birder (he takes groups out from all over the world). We were hoping to see a Plains Wanderer, (M,MSB) which is a monotypic family, similar to a Button-quail and endemic to Australia, and Phil is the only person who can find a Plains Wanderer using the spotlight, while driving the car, while chatting to us and answering our non-stop questions. (If you want his number, contact us).

At 06.30 Phil picked us us and we drove to Gilpa State Forest 20 km south of Deniliquin. We saw 27 bird species on the way there. At the forest we saw Red-rumped and Superb Parrot, Brown Tree-creepers, Palid Cuckoo and the rare Gilberts Whistler, amongst others. We drove on through the flooded forest, bombarded by flies and mozzies, and headed to an area of dead trees and very hot sand. Above, a Little Eagle soared high, and bee-eaters were swooping all over the place. We came to an old hollow tree, and when Phil scratched the base of the trunk with a stick (to sound like a lizard climbing up) an Owlet-nightjar shot out and watched us from a nearby tree. After eyeing the three of us up for a while, he went back inside his hidey-hole. It was getting near lunch-time, and Dianne's worms were biting, so we headed back to Deni., stopping at a sewage pond on the way. We found a Pink-eared Duck and a Hoary-headed Grebe. We went on for our lunch, which was a 2 hour pub-stop. It had been a good morning, with 90 species clocked up.

The first bird of the afternoon was a Nankeen Night-heron at a pond in town, but there was little else there. It was damn hot by now. We headed north, way out into the plains. We saw our first Red Kangaroos, bounding across the flat plains. One place we stopped, we found 3 Tawny Frog-mouths sitting by their nest. As we got closer, they 'hid' from us, by stretching out to look like small tree branches. Other good birds were Swamp Harrier, Blue Bonnets, Striped, Singing and Spiny-cheeked Honeyeaters and White-backed Swallow. Time was getting on so we stopped for butties on the side of the road near a pair of nesting Wedge-tailed Eagles. Across the road were a pair of Ground Cuckoo-shrikes, also nesting, and every so often they would fly over us and mob the eagles. The eagles didn't seem to mind too much. It was a lovely spot, so peaceful and remote. You could turn 360 degrees and see no lights, no buildings, no cars, nothing except the desert landscape, and the only sounds to be heard were the sounds of the bush - crickets, and the occasional bird call. Lovely. Anyway, it was Plains Wanderer Time, so off we all went to the site which was a 40,000 acre sheep station. Our first birds in the spotlight were Inland Dotterel in a flock that included Banded Lapwing and Oz. Pratincole. And the next was our Plains Wanderer ! We were surprised to find it so easily, and 10 minutes later we found another one, this time with views down to a few feet. (Well, Phil found them without any problem. If we had been driving around 40,000 acres waving a torch around looking for PWs, we'd still have been there now...) We also wanted to see a Button-quail, so saying goodbye to little matey we went off to another site for shorter grass. We soon spotted a Red-chested Button-quail, and a little later got a Little Button-quail. We couldn't believe the size of these things, and again had good, close views. It was getting late by our standards, so we asked Phil to head us for home, exhausted. We were priviliged to have Phil to ourselves. He explained that some clients want to stay out all night to find the Wanderer, and though it was easily found on our trip, that was not always the case. Also, some people wanted to stay and watch the bird for an hour or so .... Anyway, on the way back we saw a Barn Owl - the only owl of the trip. We got back at 23.30, paid Phil his £170 - worth every penny - and sadly said farewell. We Will Do It Again Soon !!! We saw 128 species this day - our best ever, and Phil had previously told us that his best day on this trip was 130, so it was a good day for him, too. We hit the beer fridge and reflected on our lovely day. Then we hit the sack.

The next day we reluctantly left Deniliquin and headed back towards Melbourne. Our best birds were White-winged Choughs.

On our last day we stopped by a marsh and watched 2 Australian Hobbies sitting on a wire. We were on our way to the You Yangs Forest Park. There wasn't much happening in the place at all, apart from a very friendly magpie who scrounged the last of our soggy pizza. The park ranger was a real misery, but on the plus side, we got some good photos of possoms snoozing in the ladies loos. We drove on to our next and last site - Brisbane Ranges National Park (which is not near Brisbane, despite the name) and the area called Anakie Gorge - famous for it's Koalas. We saw a Spotted Pardalote, Shrike-tit and, believe it or not, the unmistakable but very rare (to the point of breeding in captivity in the Healsville Zoo...) Yellow-tufted Honeyeater. Oh, and a koala bear, chilling out in a gum tree !! We sat in the afternoon sunshine, cooking our steaks, not saying much. 3 Kookaburras sat on a branch above our heads, competing against a family of 3 magpies for our biscuits, and what, with the koala up the tree - could there have been a better way to end our trip ? Tears were in David's eyes - he didn't want to go home !

On the way back to the UK, we spent the night (included in price) in a very plush hotel in Osaka, Japan. After we had silenced the toilet from automatically talking and going into non-stop bidet mode every time one of us walked into the bathroom, and after we'd worked out how to get the water out of the kettle, we stood in the morning chill on the hotel balcony to see what was about. We saw a Black-tailed Gull and a White Wagtail.

This brought the total trip species to 312 birds, including 258 lifers and 24 new families. Also we got 20 mammals. An excellent trip in every way. Among the birds we saw, there were 17 species of parrot, 15 dove and a mere 28 Honeyeaters. We can't wait to return and see another part of this wonderful country.

BIRDS OF AUSTRALIA