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A Report from birdtours.co.uk

Belize and North Eastern Guatemala, 5th - 26th November 2005 ,

James Lowther & Carol McKay

e-mail: jamesalowther@yahoo.co.uk

INTRODUCTION

This trip was not dedicated exclusively to birding, although we did visit some places where birds are the major draw (Cockscomb, Crooked Tree), and many of the other regional tourist highlights are excellent for wildlife also.

With its combination of relatively low population pressure, seemingly robust environmental protection laws and thriving tourist industry Belize is in a position to establish itself as one of THE leading “eco-tourism” destinations in the world, and seems to be going some way to doing just that. A welcome offshoot of this is that there is widespread ’sympathy’ for birding amongst the local population, or at the very least, those involved with tourism. Pretty much everyone we came across professed an enthusiasm for birds and this can only be a good thing.

Guatemala (what little we saw of it) felt distinctly more chaotic than Belize (all part of its appeal!) and despite the large numbers of tourists, El Peten had a remote frontier feel (especially the road between Melchor and El Remate). The side-trip to Tikal from Belize is an absolute must.

Bird-wise visiting in November means missing out on a number of migrant breeding species but numbers of wintering and some transient Nearctic species seemed very high in compensation. Although it was hot and humid, it was not uncomfortable and a lot more pleasant than expected - on the downside, rain showers, often heavy and often persistent, were a daily feature of the first two weeks of the trip, although our time on Caye Caulker was spent with uninterrupted blue skies. 

I have not gone into great detail about practicalities of food, accommodation, transport, border crossings etc. as there is plenty of good information out there already, and everything is very easy to work out once you’re there, however anyone with specific questions can feel free to e-mail.

LITERATURE

The field guide I used was ‘Birds of Belize’ by H. Lee Jones, illustrated by Dana Gardner. The illustrations are not up to the standards of the European field guides but for the most part are perfectly good nevertheless, while the text is very good and includes some interesting introductory chapters. This book I think covers all the species you are likely to encounter in northern Guatemala but has no coverage of the many highland and Pacific slope specialities of that country. The only comprehensive alternative for Belizean birds is ‘Guide to the birds of Mexico and Northern Central America’ by Steve Howell and Sophie Webb. This book has a very good reputation and I was impressed when I looked at the copy at our hotel in Crooked Tree. However, while it is clearly a winner over ‘Birds of Belize’ in terms of its broader scope, it doesn’t include illustrations of non-breeding migrants, which is fine if you’re a North American, but not so good if like me you have virtually no experience of Nearctic species. Its also considerably bigger than ‘Birds of Belize’, but in practise I found even that book too heavy to take into the field, relying instead on a combination of extensive ’revision’ before the trip and a little bit of note-taking. I came across both visiting and resident birders using other regional guides such as Peterson’s ‘Mexican birds’ and ‘Birds of Costa Rica’, but, unless you already own such a book and can’t afford an upgrade, I wouldn’t recommend this.

For itinerary/planning purposes I drew inspiration from a few trip reports on the internet e.g. Tim Allwood and Claire Stephenson’s on Birdtours

http://www.birdtours.co.uk/tripreports/belize/belize1/yuc-bel-aug-03.htm

and those of organised trips with the Travelling Naturalist

http://www.naturalist.co.uk/trip_reports.php

However, extensive research was not necessary as firstly I was not after any particular target species, and secondly, transport and accommodation options for almost all the best spots for birding in Belize, and all the areas we visited, are detailed in the general purpose traveller’s guides, e.g. ‘the Lonely Planet - Guatemala, Belize and the Yucatan’.

PLACES VISITED & ACTIVITIES

Tropical Education Centre (2 nights)

The TEC is just off the Western highway, across the road from the Zoo. It is a great spot to stay, very peaceful. The place was crawling with North American migrants but was also pretty good for savannah and second growth type species.

Belize Zoo

Definitely worth a visit to see skulking Belizean wildlife you would otherwise stand virtually no chance of spotting. Particular highlights for me included Baird’s Tapir, Jaguar, Emerald Toucanet and Harpy Eagle (wow!). There’s plenty of wild birds knocking around also.

San Ignacio (5 nights total)

This town is a good base for exploring western Belize, with good accommodation, restaurants, tour options etc. Probably the most promising area for birding close to the centre of town is the picnic areas close to the lower bridge.

Day trip to the Mountain Pine Ridge (stops at Rio Frio cave, Rio On pools, Five Sisters lodge and Big Rock falls)

This area has enormous potential for birding but unless you stay in one of the expensive eco-lodges or hire a car (I wouldn’t fancy driving the rutted roads however) the only way to visit this area seems to be on an organised sightseeing tour. This was worthwhile nevertheless as the sights are very nice despite the deforestation caused by the Southern Pine Beetle (the infestation is now over and there seems to have been plenty of reseeding of affected areas). I managed to crowbar in some quality birding while the others were swimming, before finally succumbing to the cool waters at Big Rock falls. A bird ‘wave’ shortly after a rain shower at Rio On Pools was one of the birding highlights of the trip.

Xunantunich and Cahal Pech (Mayan ruins)

Both these sites are very interesting and easy to visit on public transport. The forest birds are not in the Tikal/Cockscomb league but I saw some good stuff.

Horseback ride to Buena Vista (Mayan ruins)

A great way to see the depths of the countryside round San Ignacio but frustrating for a birder! Buena Vista looked like a pretty good spot for forest and second growth species and I think might be relatively easy to visit on public transport if you’re not in a hurry.

Visit to Green Iguana breeding project at San Ignacio Resort

A very interesting demonstration of a very worthwhile project.

El Remate (Guatemala; 2 nights)

This small village on the shores of Lago de Peten Itza proved a good alternative to Flores as a base for visiting Tikal as it is closer to both the ruins themselves (our 5:30 am shuttle was the first vehicle through the park gate) and to the Belizean border. It is also a lot smaller than Flores if that’s what you like. Our guesthouse ‘Casa de Don David’ had a nice garden and the only worthwhile hummingbird feeders we came across on our trip. A rainforest reserve, the Biotopo de Cerro Cahui, is within walking distance of the village but we didn’t make it there.

Tikal (Mayan ruins)

A well-known highlight of the area, both culturally and for wildlife watching. I found the quiet paths around Templo IV particularly good for birds and the first few hours of daylight best, however there were birds around everywhere and throughout the day. Realistically if you are staying elsewhere the earliest you can arrive at the park HQ is about 6:15 am, so those on dedicated birding trips should really bite the bullet of overpriced accommodation and stay overnight. Two full days would give plenty of time both to visit the temples and see a lot of birds.

Boat trip along two small rivers feeding Lago de Peten Itza

This two hour early morning trip was a real unexpected highlight. The American boatman Lou makes up for what he lacks in expertise with abundant enthusiasm - he clearly loves showing people ‘his’ rivers.

Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary (2 nights)

Cockscomb is a fantastic place, where else can you be watching a Great Tinamou three minutes after getting out of bed? It has a similar range of species to Tikal (no turkeys though) but with the advantage that you may well have the entire reserve area practically to yourself. There are a variety of loop trails leading away from the visitor centre and accommodation which take you very quickly into dense forest. The more open areas round the buildings were also productive bird-wise. Apart from birding there are also trails leading to panoramic viewpoints, waterfalls where you can swim and the possibility of hiring a tyre to float down the river if it’s not too engorged. The accommodation at the sanctuary is fairly basic (electricity was for practical purposes non-existent and you must take in your own food - only cold drinks and chocolate bars available from the centre), however that is all part of the charm. It is also easy to reach on public transport provided you’re willing to walk 10km or fork out $30US for a return taxi trip (possibly with the smallest taxi driver in the world).

Orange Walk (2 nights)

Our hotel was on the bank of the New River on the edge of town and was suitable for some relaxed low-key birding and crocodile-spotting. Don’t try to find anywhere to eat in town after 9pm.

Boat trip up the New River and across the New River Lagoon to Lamanai (Mayan ruins)

This is an excellent trip and you will see lots of birds, although opportunities for ‘birding’ are fairly limited. Lamanai is quite a long way from Orange Walk and the boat has to travel pretty speedily most of the time, and you are guided round the ruins themselves.

Crooked Tree (2 nights)

I found Crooked Tree something of a disappointment, but this was probably down to a combination of mostly atrocious weather, visiting at the wrong time of year and inflated expectations. It seemed difficult to reach the best wetland areas on foot and the village is fairly sprawling and the savannah regions are therefore not quite as wild as I’d expected. I saw a lot of good birds nevertheless, but it wasn’t quite the spectacular we were hoping for.

Boat trip on Crooked Tree lagoon

This 3 hr trip was good but not great, and pretty expensive at 75$US for the boat (it would be more reasonable for 4 people however). The most surprising and most disappointing absences from my trip-list, Wood Stork and Bare-throated Tiger Heron respectively, were both conspicuous by their absence, as was Boat-billed Heron (which I saw the following day). On the plus side the boatman, Reuben, was easily the best Belizean birder I encountered, and a visit later in the dry season should produce all the species I missed and possibly others such as Agami Heron and Sungrebe.

Caye Caulker (5 nights)

THE place every backpacker in Belize eventually ends up in! Snorkelling is the name of the game here, however the birding was not too bad also. Many of the commonest birds on Caye Caulker are absent or difficult to see on the mainland and the shoreline and pools alongside the airstrip were the best spots for shorebirds I came across in all of Belize. There is also an aptly named Mini Reserve, which is good for Black Catbird and Yucatan Vireo, probably the two birds you shouldn’t leave without trying to see.

2 full day snorkelling trips to Hol Chan Marine Reserve (1 by sailboat)

The trip we took with Carlos Ayala was superb and I can only echo the Lonely Planet’s “Highly Recommended”.  The snorkelling from the sailboat was not quite so good but compensated for by the leisurely sunset cruise back to Caye Caulker with complementary lobster ceviche, chips and rum punch.

Half day snorkelling trip to Caye Caulker Marine Reserve

Not as good as Hol-Chan but worthwhile nevertheless. More opportunities for exploring the coral on your own.

Manatee and dolphin watching trip to Swallow Caye

Another nice trip. Our guide ‘Chocolate’ is largely responsible for getting Swallow Caye legally protected and quite a character to boot.

Short seahorse spotting trip by kayak

Very pleasant.

Unsurprisingly none of the above trips was particularly good for birds but there’s no harm in taking your binoculars along just in case a stray Red-footed Booby or Brown Noddy happens along. Most of the trips to Hol Chan go to San Pedro town on Ambergris Caye for lunch and this was the only place I saw Common Ground-dove.

Belize City (1 night)

Obviously not the most birdy place, but it’s worth keeping your eyes open nevertheless. I’d like to say that it doesn’t deserve its bad reputation but a German couple were mugged in broad daylight a matter of minutes before we wandered along the same quiet harbour-front road. Most of the people were very nice though and I’m glad we got to have a look round.

BIRD LIST

Species order, taxonomy and nomenclature follows ‘Birds of Belize’. New additions to my (James’) lifelist are capitalised. Considering the nature of the holiday, I was extremely pleased with the total of 245 species seen, of which 211 were new for me

GREAT TINAMOU
1 seen early morning at Cockscomb

LEAST GREBE
1 adult and several chicks on a pond in Crooked Tree Village

PIED-BILLED GREBE
Common at Crooked Tree, also 1 seen El Remate

Brown Booby
1 adult and 1 immature seen offshore, Belize City

Brown Pelican
Common round the Cayes, Belize City and Dangriga

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT
Common at Crooked Tree, also several seen New River Lagoon

DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT
Common round the Cayes

ANHINGA
2 Crooked Tree and 1 Orange Walk, all in flight

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD
Very common round the Cayes, Belize City and Dangriga, also 2 seen Crooked Tree

Great Blue Heron
Fairly common at wetland sites and the Cayes

Great Egret
Common at wetland sites and the Cayes

Snowy Egret
Fairly common at wetland sites and the Cayes

Little Blue Heron
Fairly common at wetland sites and the Cayes

Tricolored Heron
Fairly common at wetland sites, commonest Caye Caulker

Cattle Egret
Common or very common in suitable habitat throughout

Green Heron
Common at wetland sites and the Cayes

Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Common along the shore on Caye Caulker early morning and late afternoon, also seen at a number of other sites, including Belize City

BOAT-BILLED HERON
A slightly distant roost of at least 10 discovered on a pond in Crooked Tree village, probably the only time on the trip I wished I had a telescope

White Ibis
Common Caye Caulker, also seen Crooked Tree

JABIRU
One of the biggest surprises of the trip, an individual seen (from the bus) in a pool no more than 50 yards from the highway near the Zoo was one of the very first birds seen on our first afternoon in Belize. Possibly the same bird was seen circling high over the Zoo a little later, and also the following day

BLACK VULTURE
Very common throughout on the mainland

TURKEY VULTURE
Very common throughout on the mainland

LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE
A few low-flying individuals detected around Crooked Tree. In the overcast conditions I found the white primary quills easier to see than the head colour, even at close range

KING VULTURE
Probably the same individual seen twice very close overhead at Cockscomb. Also one seen (from the bus) perched in a tree alongside the Hummingbird highway

BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING DUCK
Common at Crooked Tree

MUSCOVY DUCK
1 seen in flight, Crooked Tree lagoon

BLUE-WINGED TEAL
4 seen in flight, Crooked Tree lagoon

LESSER SCAUP
1 female, Crooked Tree

Osprey
Fairly common and widespread, even seen fishing at the barrier reef

WHITE-TAILED KITE
Several seen from the bus around Dangriga, also 1 seen Lago de Peten Itza.

SNAIL KITE
Common at Crooked Tree, also 1 seen New River

BLACK-COLLARED HAWK
4 seen Crooked Tree

COMMON BLACK-HAWK
Fairly common and occasionally seen at close range, Caye Caulker. Also 1 Black-hawk that appeared to be this species seen at long range whilst waiting for a bus at the Zoo

GREAT BLACK-HAWK
Individual(s) seen twice, Crooked Tree

GRAY HAWK
Individual(s) seen several times early morning and late afternoon around San Ignacio town

ROADSIDE HAWK
Fairly common and widespread in a variety of habitats

SHORT-TAILED HAWK
4 light morph individuals seen at various locations, mostly close to the highway in the lowlands

LAUGHING FALCON
1 seen well New River and 1 perched alongside the highway near Dangriga

AMERICAN KESTREL
1 female seen from horseback near San Ignacio, 1 male perched alongside the highway between El Remate and Melchor. Frustratingly unable to use binoculars on either occasion

Merlin
Individual(s) seen twice, Caye Caulker

BAT FALCON
About 4 seen in the Crooked Tree area, also 1 at Lamanai

ORANGE-BREASTED FALCON
A pair seen extremely well in El Mundo Perdido, Tikal. A big surprise as I didn’t realise they occurred there

Peregrine Falcon
1 seen Orange Walk

PLAIN CHACHALACA
Parties seen at a number of forested and semi-forested sites. Extremely noisy early mornings at the TEC

CRESTED GUAN
4 seen at Tikal, including one on the ground at close range, 4 at Cockscomb

OCELLATED TURKEY
Regional endemic. Common at Tikal, more easily seen around the visitor centre and car park than the ruins themselves

GRAY-NECKED WOOD RAIL
4 seen well at the Aguada de Tikal, 1 near Buena Vista

Common Moorhen
2 seen Crooked Tree

AMERICAN COOT
Very common at Crooked Tree

LIMPKIN
Fairly common at Crooked Tree, also 1 seen from the highway between El Remate and Melchor

Black-bellied Plover
Fairly common Caye Caulker

Killdeer
A pair seen El Remate and 1 seen Caye Caulker

BLACK-NECKED STILT
About 20 seen alongside the airstrip on Caye Caulker, also 1 seen New River

NORTHERN JACANA
Very common at Crooked Tree, also 1 seen Aguada de Tikal

GREATER YELLOWLEGS
Individual(s) seen twice in flight, Caye Caulker

WILLET
1 or 2 present on Caye Caulker, 1 Belize City

SPOTTED SANDPIPER
a.k.a. “Shaky batty” in Belizean Creole! Seen in small numbers at almost all wetlands, rivers, beaches etc.

Whimbrel
Several seen Caye Caulker

MARBLED GODWIT
Probably the same individual seen several times on Caye Caulker. Apparently this species is only a rare visitor to Belize

Ruddy Turnstone
Fairly common on Caye Caulker

Sanderling
Small numbers seen Caye Caulker

LEAST SANDPIPER
Small parties Crooked Tree and Caye Caulker

SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER
Fairly common on Caye Caulker. All birds were in winter plumage and remained silent so I’m not 100% sure about the ID

WILSON’S SNIPE
3 seen in flight, Crooked Tree. I’d like to say I detected all the field marks for separating this species from Common Snipe but I’d be lying

Laughing Gull
Very common Belize City and the Cayes, also 1 seen at Crooked Tree

Gull-billed Tern
1 seen Crooked Tree

Royal Tern
Common Belize City and the Cayes

Sandwich Tern
Fairly common on Caye Caulker

ROSEATE TERN
About 20 in flight, of which 3 settled, associating with the previous species at the water taxi launch, Caye Caulker. The last new bird of the trip

Rock Dove
Feral, common in urban areas. Not the most exciting bird of the trip, if I’m honest

PALE-VENTED PIGEON
Small numbers seen Lago de Peten Itza and El Remate, Cockscomb, Orange Walk and Crooked Tree

SCALED PIGEON
2 small groups seen Cockscomb

WHITE-CROWNED PIGEON
Slightly unseasonable individual(s) seen twice, Caye Caulker

RED-BILLED PIGEON
2 seen well, San Ignacio. A number of unidentified pigeons seen in flight over the town were probably this species also

WHITE-WINGED DOVE
Fairly common Caye Caulker, also seen over Orange Walk

COMMON GROUND-DOVE
A pair seen San Pedro town

RUDDY GROUND-DOVE
Common and widespread on the mainland

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE
Several seen at the TEC. I found all the Leptotila doves I saw very difficult to ID - records of this and the following species are therefore slightly doubtful

GRAY-CHESTED DOVE
Several at Cockscomb

RUDDY QUAIL-DOVE
1 female seen at Cockscomb

OLIVE-THROATED PARAKEET
Small parties of this species were seen regularly in a variety of habitats. The only Belizean parrot (Scarlet Macaw notwithstanding) easy to ID in flight

“Short-tailed” parrots of a range of sizes were seen in flight almost every day, but without knowledge of their flight calls I found them very difficult to ID unless viewing conditions were perfect. In addition to the species listed I am fairly certain that I also encountered Mealy and Yellow-headed Parrots but wouldn’t like to put them on my lifelist. Their reluctance to perch in the open was a major frustration

BROWN-HOODED PARROT
A party of about 6 seen Tikal

WHITE-CROWNED PARROT
Fairly common at Lamanai

WHITE-FRONTED PARROT
Large numbers seen Crooked Tree, also seen Lago de Peten Itza and Orange Walk

RED-LORED PARROT
Small numbers seen Tikal and Crooked Tree

SQUIRREL CUCKOO
Individuals seen at the TEC and Tikal. Rather skulking

GROOVE-BILLED ANI
Fairly common on the mainland but with a patchy distribution. Very common round Crooked Tree village

LESSER/COMMON NIGHTHAWK
Probably the same individual of one of these species seen at sundown on 2 days, Caye Caulker

WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT
Seen mornings and evenings over San Ignacio, often in large flocks. I found the white collar extremely hard to spot

Chimney Swift
Small numbers seen over Cockscomb. They might have been Vaux’s rather than this species but as I’ve seen Chimneys before I wasn’t too bothered about clinching the ID 100%

LESSER SWALLOW-TAILED SWIFT
Small numbers over Tikal and Cockscomb

LONG-BILLED HERMIT
Individual(s) seen extremely well several times at the feeders at Casa de Don David, El Remate. Also 1 seen Cockscomb

STRIPE-THROATED HERMIT
Fairly common at Cockscomb but extremely active and hard to see well

WEDGE-TAILED SABREWING
2 seen Cahal Pech and 1 each seen Xunantunich and El Remate

WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN
At least 4 seen well at the river lookout, Cockscomb, also 1 seen at the TEC

CANIVET’S EMERALD
1 female seen at the TEC, 1 male seen at the Crooked Tree turnoff whilst waiting for the village bus

WHITE-BELLIED EMERALD
Individuals seen Five Sisters lodge, Xunantunich and somewhere else I can’t remember - maybe Cockscomb or Tikal

RUFOUS-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD
Common on the mainland, seen most days. I would estimate at least 80% of hummingbirds seen on the mainland were this species

BUFF-BELLIED HUMMINGBIRD
1 seen at the Crooked Tree turnoff whilst waiting for the village bus

CINNAMON HUMMINGBIRD
Common on Caye Caulker, also 1 probable seen Belize City

Ruby-throated Hummingbird
1 female type seen at the Crooked Tree turnoff whilst waiting for the village bus (for hummingbird variety it couldn’t be beat!)

BLACK-HEADED TROGON
Individuals seen Tikal and Lamanai

VIOLACEOUS TROGON
A party of around 4 seen Xunantunich

SLATY-TAILED TROGON
1 male seen Cockscomb

BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT
Carol found me a pair perched in sparse understory at Cahal Pech - probably my favourite birds of the trip. Surprisingly, considering Cahal Pech’s close proximity to ‘civilisation’ an individual seen disappearing into the forest at Cockscomb was the only other seen all trip. Heard at dawn, Tikal

RINGED KINGFISHER
Fairly common in a wide variety of wetland habitats, fairly shy normally but pretty easy to see at Crooked Tree

Belted Kingfisher
Common in a wide variety of wetland habitats

AMAZON KINGFISHER
A pair seen at the Xunantunich ferry crossing

GREEN KINGFISHER
Fairly common but only seen along rivers. These were consistently IDed as Amazon Kingfishers by one guide and Pygmy Kingfishers by another!

WHITE-NECKED PUFFBIRD
Our guide on the Crooked Tree boat trip spotted one for us in the shoreline logwood swamps

COLLARED ARACARI
Small parties seen in a variety of forested sites. Delighted the crowds by showing down to 4 feet at the Grand Plaza, Tikal

KEEL-BILLED TOUCAN
The national bird of Belize. Individuals or pairs seen Xunantunich, Buena Vista, Tikal, Lago de Peten Itza, San Ignacio and Lamanai

ACORN WOODPECKER
Common in all upland and lowland pine savannas. There is a well-tended acorn larder opposite the ticket office at the Zoo

RED-VENTED WOODPECKER
Regional endemic. 2 individuals seen Crooked Tree and a pair Caye Caulker. The following similarly marked species was more common at both sites however

GOLDEN-FRONTED WOODPECKER
Common and widespread, although not seen at the most densely forested sites

GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER
1 seen at the Zoo and 1 at the TEC on the first afternoon

CHESTNUT-COLORED WOODPECKER
1 male seen Tikal

LINEATED WOODPECKER
Individuals seen Cockscomb and Lamanai

PALE-BILLED WOODPECKER
Several seen Tikal, also 1 or 2 at Cockscomb

PLAIN XENOPS
Individuals seen Tikal and Cockscomb

TAWNY-WINGED WOODCREEPER
Individuals seen near Rio Frio cave, Buena Vista and Tikal

RUDDY WOODCREEPER
1 seen near Rio Frio cave

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER
2 seen Tikal

IVORY-BILLED WOODCREEPER
1 seen Cockscomb, enjoyment of this bird was somewhat tempered by the realisation that I was standing on a swarm of large, vicious ants

BARRED ANTSHRIKE
A pair seen at the TEC and a male seen Lago de Peten Itza, one of this species’ calls sounds exactly like a Carrion Crow!

DOT-WINGED ANTWREN
3 different pairs seen at Cockscomb

DUSKY ANTBIRD
A pair seen at Cockscomb

YELLOW-BELLIED TYRANNULET
1 seen Tikal

YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA
Common around the TEC, but 1 seen round the buildings at Cockscomb was the only other of the trip

OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER
Individuals seen at a number of forested and semi-forested sites

NORTHERN BENTBILL
2 seen Tikal, 1 seen Cockscomb

COMMON TODY-FLYCATCHER
Several seen round the TEC and the Zoo, also seen at Cockscomb and Crooked Tree

EYE-RINGED FLATBILL
1 seen Tikal

YELLOW-OLIVE FLYCATCHER
1 seen at the Zoo

STUB-TAILED SPADEBILL
A small party of 3 or 4 birds seen at Tikal

SULPHUR-RUMPED FLYCATCHER
1 seen Rio Frio cave

TROPICAL PEWEE
3 or 4 pewees were seen at different sites, at least two of which belonged to this species

YELLOW-BELLIED FLYCATCHER
Several Empidonax flycatchers were seen at various sites, most of which seemed to belong to this species

VERMILION FLYCATCHER
Very common around Crooked Tree, individuals also seen Orange Walk and near Dangriga

BRIGHT-RUMPED ATTILA
1 or 2 seen at Tikal

DUSKY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER
3 or 4 seen at various sites, Rio On pools, Cockscomb, Crooked Tree etc.

Great Crested Flycatcher
3 or 4 seen at various sites, Xunantunich, Tikal etc.

GREAT KISKADEE
Common and widespread in a variety of habitats

BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER
A pair seen on the walk from Xunantunich to the ferry crossing

SOCIAL FLYCATCHER
Very common and widespread in a variety of habitats

TROPICAL KINGBIRD
“Yellow-bellied” kingbirds were very common and widespread on the mainland and the cayes. Both this and the following species were IDed by voice when I paid attention, with Tropical seemingly much more common, as per the literature

COUCH’S KINGBIRD
Seemingly fairly common, see previous species

SCISSOR-TAILED FLYCATCHER
4 seen Belize City, including 3 seen extremely well opposite the Arts and Crafts centre, also 1 seen El Remate

FORK-TAILED FLYCATCHER
Small parties seen round Crooked Tree, on the New River and from the bus on the northern highway

CINNAMON BECARD
A pair seen Cockscomb

ROSE-THROATED BECARD
1 female seen in the hotel garden, Crooked Tree

MASKED TITYRA
Fairly common at well forested sites

WHITE-COLLARED MANAKIN
Fairly common at Cockscomb

RED-CAPPED MANAKIN
3, including 1 male, seen at Cockscomb. “Moonwalking” was unfortunately not observed

WHITE-EYED VIREO
Fairly common and widespread, the most frequently seen vireo

MANGROVE VIREO
Ones or twos seen at a number of sites, the TEC, Tikal, Crooked Tree etc., no noticeable association with mangroves

YELLOW-THROATED VIREO
Individuals seen at the TEC, Xunantunich and (I  think) Cockscomb

PLUMBEOUS VIREO
A small party of 5 or 6 birds seen Rio On pools

RED-EYED VIREO
1 lateish migrant seen at the TEC

YUCATAN VIREO
Near regional endemic. Fairly common on Caye Caulker, surprisingly large

LESSER GREENLET
Ones or twos seen at a number of forested sites, Five Sisters lodge, Xunantunich, Tikal, Cockscomb etc.

RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE
1 seen at the TEC, song sounds like Willow Warbler

BROWN JAY
Common and widespread on the mainland, travels in raucous parties

YUCATAN JAY
Regional endemic. Small parties of this attractive jay seen on the outskirts of Crooked Tree village

Purple Martin
1 bird that was probably a late individual of this species rather than an early Gray-Breasted Martin seen distantly over San Ignacio

TREE SWALLOW
Dozens seen over Crooked Tree lagoon (amongst other species)

MANGROVE SWALLOW
Common around water

NORTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW
Decent numbers seen at a variety of sites, San Ignacio, Cockscomb, Crooked Tree etc.

RIDGWAY’S ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW
Near regional endemic. Common at Tikal where they seem to nest in the chambers at the top of the pyramids, surprisingly easily recognised as this species rather than Northern

Barn Swallow
Small numbers seen Lago de Peten Itza and Crooked Tree

SPOT-BREASTED WREN
Several seen at the TEC, also 1 at Rio On pools

HOUSE WREN
Fairly common around Crooked Tree village, also seen El Remate and Cockscomb

WHITE-BELLIED WREN
A pair were building a nest outside our cabana at the TEC, 1 or 2 also seen at Tikal. The illustration for this species in ‘Birds of Belize’ is not the greatest

WHITE-BREASTED WOOD-WREN
Several seen at Cockscomb

LONG-BILLED GNATWREN
A pair seen outside our cabin at Cockscomb

Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Fairly common in highland and lowland pine savannas, commonest round Crooked Tree

SWAINSON’S THRUSH
1 seen San Ignacio

WOOD THRUSH
Common and widespread on the mainland

CLAY-COLORED ROBIN
Common (locally very common) and widespread on the mainland

GRAY CATBIRD
Common throughout

BLACK CATBIRD
Regional endemic. Fairly common on Caye Caulker, best seen in thickets of littoral forest with sparse understory in the Mini Reserve

TROPICAL MOCKINGBIRD
Very common in the lowlands and on Caye Caulker

TENNESSEE WARBLER
Individuals seen Tikal and Crooked Tree

NORTHERN PARULA
2 seen at the TEC and 1 seen on Caye Caulker

YELLOW WARBLER
Fairly common on the mainland (all yellow-headed) and very common on Caye Caulker, where nonetheless only two chestnut-headed males and one grey- and green-toned immature could be unambiguously IDed as “Mangrove Warblers”. Female/immature type birds often lacked prominent yellow edgings on their flight feathers and caused me some ID headaches until I worked it out

CHESTNUT-SIDED WARBLER
2 seen at Tikal and 1 seen at Cockscomb

MAGNOLIA WARBLER
The commonest warbler on the mainland but not seen on the Cayes

YELLOW-RUMPED WARBLER
1 seen on Caye Caulker

BLACK THROATED GREEN WARBLER
Fairly common

Yellow-throated Warbler
Fairly common on the mainland and common on the Cayes

GRACE’S WARBLER
2 seen below Ben’s Bluff, Cockscomb and 1 seen at the Zoo, all in pine trees, naturally

PRAIRIE WARBLER
1 seen on Caye Caulker

PALM WARBLER
Fairly common on Caye Caulker

BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER
Common on the mainland

AMERICAN REDSTART
Common to very common throughout

PROTHONOTARY WARBLER
Several seen in the logwood swamps, Crooked Tree lagoon

OVENBIRD
Fairly common on the mainland

NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH
Fairly common on the mainland

LOUISIANA WATERTHRUSH
1 seen Cockscomb, the contrast between the pure white supercilium and buff flanks was very noticeable, a real case of “you’ll know it when you see one”

KENTUCKY WARBLER
6 individuals seen at Tikal but not seen elsewhere

COMMON YELLOWTHROAT
Fairly common throughout

GRAY-CROWNED YELLOWTHROAT
Several seen in riverside sedges, Lago de Peten Itza, and 2 seen at the Crooked Tree turnoff whilst waiting for the village bus

HOODED WARBLER
Common on the mainland

RUFOUS-CAPPED WARBLER
An active and confiding party of 5 or 6 birds seen Rio On pools

YELLOW-BREASTED CHAT
Individuals seen at the TEC, Cockscomb and Crooked Tree

BANANAQUIT
The white-throated race caboti (“Cozumel Bananaquit”) was fairly common on Caye Caulker

RED-THROATED ANT-TANAGER
Fairly common and widespread on the mainland at forested and semi-forested sites. Commonest at Cockscomb

HEPATIC TANAGER
A pair seen at Rio On pools

SUMMER TANAGER
Fairly common

PASSERINI’S TANAGER
A few pairs seen at Cockscomb

BLUE-GRAY TANAGER
Common on the mainland

YELLOW-WINGED TANAGER
Fairly common on the mainland

SCRUB EUPHONIA
Seen at various sites on the mainland

YELLOW-THROATED EUPHONIA
Seen at various sites on the mainland, seemingly more frequent than the previous species, contra the literature

OLIVE-BACKED EUPHONIA
Individual males seen well Tikal and Cockscomb, unidentified Euphonias possibly of this species were in attendance at both sites

GOLDEN-HOODED TANAGER
Small parties of this stunner seen Rio On pools and Cockscomb

GREEN HONEYCREEPER
A few seen at Cockscomb

RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER
Fairly common

BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT
2 slightly distant males identified by their song flights near San Ignacio, also a pair seen round the buildings at Cockscomb

VARIABLE SEEDEATER
Common at Cockscomb but not seen elsewhere

WHITE-COLLARED SEEDEATER
Common and widespread

THICK-BILLED SEED-FINCH
1 male and 1 female seen at the TEC

YELLOW-FACED GRASSQUIT
A small flock seen at the entrance to Five Sisters lodge, also 1 seen Cockscomb

ORANGE-BILLED SPARROW
1 seen at Cockscomb, see the Ivory-billed Woodcreeper account for details of how the encounter ended

GREEN-BACKED SPARROW
1 or 2 seen at the TEC and 1 seen at Tikal

RUSTY SPARROW
2 seen at Rio On pools

CHIPPING SPARROW
3 or 4 seen on the outskirts of Crooked Tree village

GRAYISH SALTATOR
Seen at a number of inland sites, commonest around Lago de Peten Itza

BUFF-THROATED SALTATOR
1 seen Cockscomb

BLACK-HEADED SALTATOR
Seen at a number of inland sites, commonest at Cockscomb

BLACK-FACED GROSBEAK
Several small flocks seen at Cockscomb

ROSE-BREASTED GROSBEAK
1 female/immature seen between Xunantunich and the ferry crossing

BLUE-BLACK GROSBEAK
A pair seen at Cockscomb

BLUE BUNTING
1 male seen at Tikal

INDIGO BUNTING
Fairly common on Caye Caulker, also several seen between Xunantunich and the ferry crossing

Red-winged Blackbird
Small parties seen the New River and Crooked Tree

MELODIOUS BLACKBIRD
Very common on the mainland

GREAT-TAILED GRACKLE
Ubiquitous in urban and open areas,  scarce in ‘wilder’ areas

BLACK-COWLED ORIOLE
A few seen at both the TEC and Crooked Tree

ORCHARD ORIOLE
Small flocks along the river courses, Lago de Peten Itza, also 1 male and (possibly) 1 female Crooked Tree

HOODED ORIOLE
Small numbers around Crooked Tree and on the Cayes

YELLOW-TAILED ORIOLE
Individuals seen Big Rock falls, Lago de Peten Itza, Cockscomb and Crooked Tree, always near water

BALTIMORE ORIOLE
Fairly common

YELLOW-BILLED CACIQUE
A pair seen at Cockscomb. More unobtrusive than other related species

MONTEZUMA OROPENDOLA
Several singing around the visitor centre and car park at Tikal. Also individuals seen El Remate and the New River

OTHER TAXA

Mammals

Not a huge variety, but saw Spider and Black Howler Monkeys, two species of squirrel (I think Yucatan and Deppe’s), Gray Fox, White-nosed Coati, Agouti, Caribbean Manatee, Atlantic Bottle-nosed Dolphin and a variety of unidentified bats

Reptiles and Amphibians
We saw Morelet’s Crocodile, one turtle species (possibly Ornate Terrapin or Slider), and a wide variety of lizards - including Green and Spiny-tailed Iguanas, basilisks, geckos, anoles etc. - and frogs

Fish
The coral reef fish were brilliant and included Nurse Sharks, Spotted Eagle Ray and 3 stingray species, Tarpon, Green and Spotted Morays, Barracuda, Houndfish, squirrelfishes, Harlequin Bass, groupers, jacks, snappers, grunts, chub, flounder, butterflyfishes, angelfishes, damselfishes, Blue Chromis, gobies, parrotfishes, triggerfishes, Blue Tang, trunkfishes, puffers and Porcupinefish. Several Longsnout (?) Seahorses were seen in the Caye Caulker mangroves

Invertebrates
In terms of colour, size, abundance and variety, the region’s butterflies and moths, headed by such species as the Blue Morpho and the Owl Butterfly, were truly spectacular. Many other fantastic bugs were spotted but remained unidentified. The barrier reef is composed of many types of coral (Staghorn, Grooved Brain, seafans, Corky Sea Fingers etc. etc.) and along with the fish hosted many Spiny Lobsters. Caye Caulker literally crawled with various land and hermit crabs     

 

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