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| A Report from birdtours.co.uk |
A Birding Guide to North-east Brazil, April 2004,
By Eduard Sangster (esangster@zonnet.nl)
Introduction
As always, the goal of this trip was to see as many species as possible, especially the 63+ endemics to NE Brazil. It is impossible to cover whole endemic-packed Northeast in 2 weeks, so I only birded Bahia state. I skipped the rest of the Northeast and left the small states of Sergipe, Pernambuco, Alagoas, Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceara and Piaui for a next visit. If you want to cover the whole of NE Brazil, I'll recommend at least 3-4 weeks of birding. If you don't speak Portuguese and you do not have much time for a thorough preparation, I definately recommend an organised tour to the NE (more info see Best way to go). Unless of course you accept to miss crucial endemics.
It was my second visit to Brazil (and South America). My first visit was a 4 week trip in 2002 to the excellent Southeast, the beautiful Iguacu Falls and the amazing Pantanal area. On my 2004 trip to Bahia I saw 198 species, including 109 'lifers', 16 red data species and 22 endemics to NE Brazil. Not as much as one can expect, but taking into account the logistics (bad roads), the access to some great sites (sometimes impossible without thorough preparation) and the fact that I was not birding all the time since the prime object of my non-birding girlfriend was not looking at skulking brown birds in isolated forest patches every morning, I was doing quite alright on my 7 mornings of birding.
This report aims at helping you to see more species than I did. Consider this report as an addition to the wealthy site-information of Jeremy Minns on www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes. For the southern sites (sites 1,2,24) all information (including maps) is on John van der Woude's website http://johnbirding.wolweb.nl.
Brazil is the fifth's largest country in the world, bigger than Australia or Western Europe and hold almost 1800 species. As Brazil is endemic-packed (200), surely one visit will not be enough. The Brazilian bird-areas ranked by present day popularity:
1. Southeast: the majority of the Atlantic Forest (of which only 2% remains today!) endemics occur here. For the rest though, you have to go to the (north)east.2. North Pantanal (Transpantaneira): excellent, easy birding and photographing at the biggest swamp in the world, near the Bolivian border.3. Amazonia: the Amazon Bassin. Most people go to Alta Floresta. Good to combine with a visit to North Pantanal.4. North-east: endemic-packed like the Southeast and the most endangered part of Brazil.Your visit cannot be too early and should really rank on top of this list.5. Iguacu: spectacular waterfalls and excellent birding. Easily to combine with a visit to the Southeast and don't forget to go the South too.6. Central Brazil: excellent bird/animal-watching at Emas NP ('Africa in Brazil') and the Brazilian Merganser sites.7. South Pantanal: excellent, easy birding and photographing in and along the biggest swamp in the world.8. South : excellent red data birding at the states of Parana, Santa Catarina and Rio Grande do Sul. Many endemics and restricted-range species!
It's obvious why to go to the NE: the Atlantic Forest here is far, far more threatened than the southeastern part. Of the 63+ Northeast endemics 48 are red data species! The area is far less known to science (and birders) than the Southeast; in recent times almost every year new species are described from this part of Brazil. This birdreport (or should I say birdguide) aims to stimulate visits to the NE as it combines a lot of scattered information you'll need to make your visit a succes. If visiting NE Brazil you should cover the following habitats to see all endemics:
1. Caatinga (6 Brazilian endemics occur in this habitat): NE Brazil's immense, arid interior is dominated by a unique habitat known as caatinga. An association of thorn scrub, columnar cacti, and huge terrestrial bromeliads. This region harbours an endemic avifauna that includes some of the least known and most endangered species of birds on the South American continent. The last Spix's Macaw was seen here in November 2000. The most visited site is Jeremoabo-Canudos.2. Atlantic slopes of Alagoas and Pernambuco (15): thanks to massive deforestation this habitat is among the most threatened of the world. The coastal Atlantic Forest holds many critically endangered species, only known from a few scattered forest patches, mostly not bigger than a few square kms. The most visited site is Murici.3. Deciduous forest of Bahia (2): this dry primary forest lies between the drier caatinga and the wetter Atlantic Forest. This habitat is also known as 'mata-de-cipo'. Highly threatened, 4 larger patches remains today. The most visited site is Boa Nova (dry forest).4. Inland hills and tablelands (7): different habitats between 1000-1500 meters. The most visited site is Chapada Diamantina.5. Atlantic forest lowlands (55 Brazilian endemics occur in this habitat in whole Brazil): low level forest along the coast south of Salvador nearly till Argentina. The most visited sites in the north-east are Linhares, Sooretama, Porto Seguro, Una and Monte Pascoal.6. Atlantic forest mountains (23 Brazilian endemics occur in this habitat in whole Brazil): montane evergreen forest from Boa Nova southwards to Argentina. The only site in the north-east is Boa Nova (wet forest).7. Deciduous forests of N Minas Gerais, SE Goias and S Bahia (2): dry tropical forest along the rivers Sao Francisco and Parana. The most visited site is Cipo NP.
Convince your non-birding partner
If you have a non-birding girlfriend like me, or like to do something else than birding (why?!), there are plenty of excellent beaches and nice little colonial villages along the coast, serving excellent food and various activities, e.g. horseriding. In the interior of Bahia, the Chapada Diamantina (Diamond's Mountains) are also attractive, with the nice village of Lencois where there are excellent hotels and plenty of stuff to do for non-birders. The surrounding NPs are a tracking paradise. The Noronha Islands are excellent for diving, surfing and relaxing and holds 2 endemics and loads of seabirds.
It's not easy to see a fair amount of the endemics of NE Brazil. Roads are bad, access to crucial sites are restricted or impossible to find due to lack of roadsigns, most endemics are rare and hard to find without directions and without tapes. Apart from the 5-star hotels in touristic areas, nobody speaks (not even a little bit) English or Spanish. The positive thing about travelling in NE Brazil is that it is safe and it has fantastic scenery.
If you want to go independently you should speak a fair bit of Portuguese and you need a lot of time for a thorough preparation before you set off to the north-east. The best option is probably to outsource all troubles and hire a professional birdguide for your trip to NE Brazil. The crucial preparation of your trip is done, you have no worries about driving and you can enjoy the company of a good birder. There are several guides to find on the internet, e.g. Ricardo Parrini rparrini@hotmail.com, Andy Whittaker www.birdingbraziltours.com, Edson Endrigo www.avesfoto.com.br. More info at www.fatbirder.com. If you prefer to go with a group, there are several touroperators offering their trips to the wonderful north-east, e.g.: www.birdquest.co.uk, www.ventbird.com, www.birdingbraziltours.com, www.fieldguides.com.
All year round is good. August to March is the least rain along the coast. Most tours go to the north-east from October till June. Most singing birds between April-July. Holiday season in Brazil is December/January.
You'll definitely need a (rental) car for birding the north-east. If you go independently AVIS provides the best offer, like in most places in Brazil. You probably get a better price if you book ahead in your own country. The best deal in the Netherlands was with Arke. We paid for the smallest air-conditioned car (Volkswagen Gol) EUR 300 for 12 days, including all insurances. It's not really necessary to get airco, but it certainly adds to the general holiday-happiness at 35 degrees Celsius. On average we paid for petrol (gasolina comun) 2 reais (EUR 0,60) per liter. Plenty gasstations along the coast. In interior Brazil it's wise to tank full when possible.
Don't rent alcohol-engined cars because they are unreliable and don't start when it is cold (mornings at higher elevations!).
The worst thing about the roads is that they are unpredictable. Good surface is, because of the soil underneath, sometimes instantly replaced by a worse potholed road. Big holes, caused by heavy rains and heavy trucks, are on every road, minor or highway, and are always unexpected. Therefor BE CAREFUL when driving and avoid driving after sunset. If you miss one of the numerous big holes in the road, your car is likely to break.
Despite all this we had no problems with the car, not even a flat tyres in our 4000km of driving. In the north-east the good birding spots are far between, 50km p/h is the maximum average speed you can drive on the long straps (no, I'm no pussy-driver, you'll feel Michael Schumacher driving this speeds on some roads). For these reasons count in enough time for travelling between the birdingsites!
Because of this safety reasons, try to avoid driving at night. Highways are always two-way. Keep in mind that on the dirtroad to the Lear's Macaw the average speed will be 15/20km, with no roadbirding being done.
It is very useful to speak a little bit of Portuguese, as smaller roads are not well signposted and you'll have to ask directions often.
At news-stands good roadmaps are available. We used the Guia Quatro Rodas 2004, which proved to be dependable.
It's not necessary to take Brazilian Reais with you. We didn't. Useable ATMs are present in all big and medium-sized towns, not only along the coast. All HSBC banks has ATMs where you withdraw cash, opened 24h a day. Most of Banco do Brasil hold some ATMs with cash withdraw for foreign accounts. Other bank's ATMs are only for domestic accounts. At ATMs you receive a better rate than changing money. If you want to bring along cash with you take US$, Euros or British Pounds.
Life is cheap in Brazil. Excluding flights and the rental car we spent 3000 reais (equals at present rate EUR 850) for two persons in 14 days.
Since a few years there is no longer tax to be paid when leaving the country.
Cheap and good. Higher prices along the touristic sites along the coast. Prices are for two persons and include breakfast. Breakfasts are excellent everywhere. Along the coast prices for good and clean pousadas (small and attractive hotel) are around 50-80 Reais (15-24 euro) for a double. If you have the money you can get a 5-star hotel for a much higher price. Inland sites are not touristic at all, besides Lencois in Chapada Diamantina. The inland hotels are basic, reasonably clean but don't expect too much of it. Here you pay 20-30 Reais (6-9 euro) for a double.
Cheap, good and available everywhere.
Some vaccinations are necessary. No malaria in the north-east, but still be aware of mosquitoes as they hold Dengue.
Brazil is often just associated with the very unsafe favela neighbourhoods of Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo, but this doesn't do justice to the country. Brazil is very safe, especially for experienced travellers who don't do stupid things like walking around with big camera's at night, etc. Along the coast, as in every touristic area in any country, be aware of robbery. The inland is even safer as it is not as touristic. We felt very safe the whole trip and experienced no troubles at all.
Portuguese. Except at 5-star hotels along the coast, REALLY nobody speaks English, or any other language (including Spanish or French).
It is very useful to speak a little bit of Portuguese, as smaller roads are not well signposted and you'll often have to ask directions.
Photo-equipment - as most sites are forest-sites, don't expect to make a lot of beautiful pictures like in the Pantanal. In 2 weeks I only made 70 photo's of birds.
Tapes - take tapes with you for the antbirds and the ovenbirds. Best buy would be 'Songs of the Antbirds' by Isler & Whitney. The little buggers are hard to find without a tape, especially the pittas. There are also tapes for woodpeckers and I recommend you bring along these as well. You can buy tapes at www.birdsongs.com. For flycatchers, manakins and cotingas tapes can also be of use, but are not (yet) available. At this moment there is also no tape for the responsive NE Brazil's ovenbirds-endemics, as far as I know.
Telescope - handy when roadbirding, for instance at lakes. Take it with you if you can.
I took along with me one birdguide and a self-made booklet with xeroxed information out of books, reports, magazines and taken from internet. It took me hours to compile. This report is a compilation of all the information in this booklet and of course describes my own experiences. I'll hope this report will make your preparation somewhat easier.
Books - Of course take a Lonely Planet with you (or another travelbook with up-to-date information).
For birding I used Deodato Souza-All the Birds of Brazil (2002). Poor illustrations, but it's the only birdguide for the endemic-packed north-east, so what can you do? If you have trouble getting this book, you can buy the book for approx. U$45 via pauloboute@uol.com.br.
I left 'The Birds of South America' handbooks by Ridgely & Tudor at home and used it for some identification pitfalls (e.g. flycatchers, spinetails and nightjars).
As birding in NE Brazil has evolved rapidly (new sites, old sites ruined by loggers, access-changes, improvement of roads) Bruce Forrester's Birding Brazil is very out-of-date nowadays for this part of Brazil and therefore (only) for this region I'll not recommend purchasing this book.
Less sites covered, not much crucial information, but more up-to-date is 'Where to watch birds in South America' by Nigel Wheatley.
Also very useful are the Birdlife's publications Key areas for threatened birds in the Neotropics (Wege & Long 1995), Threatened Birds of the Americas and Endemic Bird Areas of the World (2004). You will get an idea of how threatened some species are and at which alarming rate the Atlantic Forest and other habitats are wasted in NE Brazil.
Internet - By far the best information about birds and birdingsites in Brazil on the internet is at:
www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes. For Southeast and the southern sites of the Northeast check John van der Woude's website http://johnbirding.wolweb.nl
Recent birdreports can best be found at: www.birdtours.co.uk/ and via www.eurobirding.com.
As birding is evolving, check for latest info about taxonomy and proposed splits the excellent website of Rolf de By: www.ornitaxa.com. The site covers all continents.
Reports - There were NO (good) reports for the Northeast available at the internet at the time of my visit. I used the following reports from old collections: Nick & Daryl Gardner-Birding trip to Brazil, May-June 1990 (good), Beadle, Bostock, Hornbuckle & Kirwan-Birding in Eastern Brazil, January-March 1995 (very good), Sargeant & Wall-A Birder's Guide to Bahia 1995 (excellent). All site information that is not out-dated, is included in this report. Therefor I recommend only the latter report as it is still very usefull for its checklist of Bahia, with status discussion for all birds ever recorded in Bahia and some discussion of identication pitfalls. Maybe you can still purchase the report via Dave Sargeant, email: David.DE.Sargeant@pdo.co.om.
Magazines - The Neotropical Bird Club's magazine Cotinga hold a few interesting articles. The only one useful so far directly for birding (we are now at nr.17, the Brazil special) is Cootinga nr.11 which holds an excellent article about a bird survey at the Chapada Diamantina area.
If you want to (try to) see all the NE specials allow at least 3-4 weeks of birding. As earlier stated I I had only two weeks and as I was with my non-birding girlfriend not all sites visited by us are the birding hotspots. Birdingsites are underlined and bold. I birded 7 mornings on my trip.
March 28 Amsterdam - Porto Seguro
March 29 Porto Seguro : birding around hotel, relaxing at the beach
March 30 Porto Seguro : relaxing at the beach, shopping, etc.
March 31 Early morning birding at Porto Seguro Private Reserve (good forest: coastal Atlantic Forest). I was kicked out of this private reserve when the owner arrived at 8 o'clock and noticed my presence after two hour of birding. I made no reservations and there was no guide to accompany me at that moment. We spent the night in an wonderful pousada right on the ocean's beach in Canavieiras.
April 1 Birding at noon at Una EcoParque at Una (good forest: coastal Atlantic Forest).
We slept at the touristic island Ilha de Tinhare. Very nice island indeed: no roads, just beach, shops and restaurants.
April 2 Shopping at Ilha de Tinhare, travelling through the nice city of Salvador to touristic Praia do Forte.
April 3 Relaxing at the beach, horse riding, visiting the turtle-sanctuary. December-February the turtles lay their eggs. April-June the chicks come out of the eggs and you can see them make their way to the see at night. We were just in between and did see nothing, only the sanctuary where captive turtles are shown to the public to make them aware of these beautiful primitive and vulnerable creatures. Between July-October you can do whale-watching trips here. In this period you have a good chance to see Humpback Whales.
April 4 Long, long drive to Jeremoaba, where the dirtroad starts to the only site left in the world for Lear's Macaws.
April 5 Birding along the dirtroad Jeremoaba - Canudos. Night at Canudos.
April 6 Early morning birding along the dirtroad south of Canudos. Long drive from Canudos to the nice town of Lencois, right in the middle of Chapada Diamantina, a beautiful national park area with many different habitats.
April 7 Birding in Chapada Diamantina.
April 8 Birding and horse riding in Chapada Diamantina.
April 9 Birding at Chapada Diamantina. Long drive to the small city of Boa Nova, probably one of the best birding sites of South America.
April 10 Birding at Boa Nova (dry and wet forests). Drive to Porto Seguro.
April 11 Porto Seguro - Amsterdam.
This huge country boasts an impressive bird list of nearly 1700 species, but it is the very high number of endemics, some 200 in total, that particularly lures the international birder to this enormous chunk of South America. There are 63+ endemics in NE Brazil. I defined NE Brazil as the area north of where the birdingtours don't go for the southeast. This means a massive area (see map), from Sooretama up north. It includes the norhern parts of the states of Espirito Santo and Minas Gerais and the states of Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Paraiba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceara and Piaui.
Information about status of the species is taken from the three Birdlife publications (see references) and www.birdlife.org. Information about the known sites is extracted from reports, books and magazines (see references). The terms Critical, Endangered, Vulnerable and Near-threatened are in descending threat-level. Much more information about the red data species is to be found at www.birdlife.org.
English and scientific names are from the (only fieldguide to Brazil): Deodato Souza-All the birds of Brazil (2002). Some new species are described since publication and some subspecies are split since publication. This list of all the endemics should be correct, complete and up-to-date (May 2004). If not, please contact me at esangster@zonnet.nl.
N.B. Yet nothing is known about possible future splits of the isolated populations in NE Brazil of White-bellied Tinamou (Nothura boraquira)(also Bolivia/Paraguay) and Greater Wagtail-Tyrant (Stigmatura budytoides gracilis) (also Argentina/Bolivia). Therefor these species are not included in this list.
| English name | Scientific name | Status | Habitat & best sites |
| 1. White-collared Hawk Split from Grey-headed Kite L. cayanensis | Leptodon forbesi | Critical | Forest. Very rare, only known from 4 sites: Azul (Pernambuco), Pedra Talhada and Murici (Alagoas). |
| 2.White-browed Guan | Penelope jacucaca | Near-threatened. | Dry stunted forest and caatinga in the lowland. Araripe and Murici. |
| 3. Alagoas Curassow | Mitu mitu | Extinct. Thought to be extinct, but refound in very small numbers in 1958. Last fieldrecord in 1988. In 1999 44 birds in captive populations. | Last records are from Sao Miguel dos Campos in Alagoas state, but all the forest here in now gone, as probably is this species. |
| 4. Lear's Macaw | Anodorhynchus leari | Critical. Thought to be extinct, but finally refound in December 1978 by Sick. At that time population was around 60, current estimate is 150 birds. | Caatinga. Only spot is at two fazenda's along the dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos in northern Bahia. I saw 6 birds here. |
| 5. Spix' Macaw | Cyanopsitta spixii | Extinct. The last 3 birds in the wild were traced down in the 1980s, in the 1990s only one bird survived and was last seen in November 2000. | Caatinga. At present, go to private collections. 200 birds are in captivity.. |
| 6. Golden-capped Parakeet Split from Sun Parakeet, A. solstitialis. | Aratinga auricapilla | Vulnerable. | Semi-deciduous forest, but forages and breeds in forest edge, adjacent secondary growth and agricultural areas. Best sites are Monte Pascoal and Chapada Diamantina. |
| 7. Cactus or Caatinga Parakeet | Aratinga cactorum | Common. | Caatinga. I saw this species along the dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos and Chapada Diamantina. |
| 8. Grey-headed Parakeet Split from P. leucotis (Ornitologia Neotropical 8 (1997): 121-132) | Pyrrhura griseopectus | Not rated yet, not yet split by Birdlife. | Forests of Ceara, Alagoas, Pernambuco (Serra Negra). E.g. Murici. |
| 9. Pernambuco Pygmy-Owl Not in most books yet. | Glaucidium mooreorum | Critical. Species described in december 2002 (Ararajuba 10 (2)). | Evergreen forest. Specimens and subsequent field records are from Reserva Biological de Saltinho (4,8km2), which is not (yet?) visited by birdtours. Also one record in Usina Trapiche, Sirinhaem. Both in the state of Pernambuco. |
| 10. Caatinga or Bahian or Plain-tailed Nighthawk | Nyctiprogne vielliardi (originally describes as Chordeiles vielliardi) | Near-threatened. Species described in 1994. | Caatinga. Known from 2 sites: bridge over the Sao Francisco at Junuaria (Minas Gerais), also at a spot in Bahia (unknown to me). |
| 11. Pygmy Nightjar | Caprimulgus hirundinaceus | Uncommon. | Caatinga. Best sites are Petrolina & Lagoa Grande. |
| 12. Hook-billed Hermit | Glaucis dohrnii | Critical. | Atlantic Forest lowland in Bahia. Recent reports from only three sites. Porto Seguro is best spot. Also at Monte Pascoal NP. |
| 13. Broad-tipped Hermit | Phaethornis gounellei | Uncommon. | Caatinga. I saw this species in Chapada Diamantina. Also at Boa Nova wet forest and Jeremoabo. |
| 14. Long-tailed Woodnymph | Thalurania watertonni | Fairly common. | Forest, parks. Murici is best spot. Also seen at Pedra Talhada. |
| 15. Hooded Visorbearer | Augastes lumachellus | Near-threatened. | Arid montane and semi-arid scrub at 950-1600m. Best site in Chapada Diamantina (I found it common at one spot). Also at Morro do Chapeu. |
| 16. Ochraceous Piculet | Picumnus limae | Vulnerable. | Semi-deciduous forest and adjacent tall caatinga on hillsides, 0-1,000 m. Serra de Ibiapaba, Serra do Baturité and Serra do Arataruai in north-central Ceara. Only a few records in caatinga in Bahia, but I saw a lookalike at Boa Nova wet forest! Nothing else matches. |
| 17. Tawny Piculet | Picumnus fluvescens | Vulnerable. | Caatinga & secondary forest. Pedra Talhada, Murici in NE Alagoas; Chapada do Araripe is probably your best option. |
| 18. Caatinga Woodpecker. Split from Rufous-headed Woodpecker C. spectabilis | Celeus obrienti | Critical | Known only from one specimen, found in 1926 in Piaui (Bull. B.O.C. 119(4):235-260, 1999). |
| 19. Spotted Piculet | Picumnus pygmaeus | Fairly common. | Forest. Many sites in Atlantic Forest. Boa Nova is a very good spot, I saw it here. |
| 00. Alagoas Plain-brown Woodcreeper Definite future split. | Dendrocincla (fuliginosa) taunayi | Endangered | Forest. Murici is probably the best spot. |
| 20. Moustached Woodcreeper | Xyphocolaptes falcirostris | Vulnerable. | Dry forest. Several sites. Check www.athurgrosset.com for latest information. |
| 21. Red-shouldered Spinetail | Gyalophylax hellmayri | Near-threatened. | Fairly common at several Caatinga sites. I saw the species at Canudos. |
| 22. Grey-headed Spinetail | Cranioleuca semicinerea | Uncommon. | Thickets, open areas. Serra de Baturite is probably best spot. |
| 23. Bahia Spinetail | Synallaxis whitneyi (correct name should be S. cinerea) | Endangered. Species discovered in 1992 at the wet forest near Boa Nova. | Humid forest at 750-1000m, especially dense tagles of vines, ferns and bamboo near forest edge. Chapada Diamantina (where I saw it) holds the bulk of the population. Boa Nova only 10 pairs. |
| 24. Plain or Pinto's Spinetail | Synallaxis infuscata | Endangered. | Forest at 0-500m. Recent records only at Murici and at Pedra Talhada in Alagoas state. |
| 25. Cipo Canestero | Asthenes luizae | Endangered. Species discovered in 1985. | Isolated rocky crags in unulating grassland. Best spot near Cipo village. |
| 26. Pink-legged Graveteiro | Acrobatornis fonsecai | Vulnerable. Described in 1996 (Wilson Bull. 108 (3): 397-433). | (sub)Canopy in lowland forest and cocoa plantations in Bahia, between the rio Jequitinhonha and the rio das Contas. Easiest spot is Camaca. |
| 27. Caatinga Cacholote Split in 2000 from Rufous Cacholote, now P. unifufa (Condor 102 (2): 409-422) | Pseudoseisura cristata | Common | Caatinga in the states of e Maranhão, Piauí, Paraíba & Pernambuco s to c Minas Gerais. I found it very common. |
| 00. Undescribed Treehunter | Critical. Not yet rated by Birdlife. | Discovered very recently at a forestpatch north of Camaca. | |
| 28. Alagoas Foliage-Gleaner | Philydor novaesi | Critical. Species discovered in 1975. | Forest at 400-550m. Only known from Murici in Alagoas, but in April 2003 also found in Pernambuco: Reserva Privada do Patrimonio Natural Frei Caneca near the town of Jaqueira (Cotinga nr.20, 2004). |
| 29. Great Xenops | Megaxenops parnaguae | Near-threatened. | Dense caatinga woodland. Best spots are Araripe, Chapada Diamantina and at Palmas de Monte Alto, Bahia. I failed at Chapada D. (bring a tape!). |
| 30. Silvery-cheeked Antshrike | Sakesphorus cristatus | Uncommon. | Caatinga. Several sites. Good spot is near Boa Nova, where I saw it quite easily. |
| 00. Caatinga Antshrike Possible future split. | Thamnophilus (doliatus) capistratus | Common. | Caatinga. Taxon has red-orange iris and has a more spotted appearance than barred nominate of Barred Antshrike. I saw it south of Canudos. |
| 31. Narrow-billed Antwren | Formicivora iheringi | Vulnerable. | Tropical (semi-)deciduous forest with vines and dense understorey of terrestrial bromeliads at 600-900m. Best spot is near Boa Nova, where I missed it due to lack of time. |
| 32. Fringe-backed Fire-eye | Pyriglena atra | Endangered. | Lowland tropical evergreen forest edge & tall secondary growth at 0-100m. Only known from 4+ locations. Best sites are Santo Amaro & Esplanada |
| 33. Caatinga Antwren | Herpsilochmus sellowi | Near-threatened. Species described in 2000 (Auk 117 (4): 869-891). | Caatinga scrub and deciduous woodland, 0-1000m. Uncommon at several sites, best spots are Morro do Chapeau and Araripe. |
| 34. Bahia or Pileated Antwren | Herpsilochmus pileatus | Vulnarable. | Lowland forest and scrub. Fairly common in its range. Una Ecoparque probably the best option. |
| 35. Pectoral Antwren | Herpsilochmus pectoralis | Vulnarable. | Gallery forest and deciduous forest in tall caatinga woodland. Best site is a spot along the dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos. I missed it (lack of time). |
| 36. Slender Antbird | Rhopornis ardesiaca | Endangered. | Tropical deciduous forest with vines and dense understorey of terrstrial bromeliads at 700-1000m. Best spot near Boa Nova, where it is fairly common. I had 3 birds. |
| 37. Orange-bellied Antwren | Terenura sicki | Endangered. Species described in 1983. | Tropical evergreen forest at 300-700m. Fairly common at Murici; regularly recorded at Pedra Talhada; additional records from Usina Serra Grande in 1996, Novo Lino in 1986, and Azul in 1989. In April 2003 also found in Pernambuco: Reserva Privada do Patrimonio Natural Frei Caneca near the town of Jaqueira (Cotinga 20, 2004). |
| 38. Alagoas Antwren | Myrmoyherula snowi | Critical. Species discovered in 1979. | Tropical evergreen forest at 300-700m. Only known from Murici, Alagoas, but in April 2003 also found in Pernambuco: Reserva Privada do Patrimonio Natural Frei Caneca near the town of Jaqueira (Cotinga 20, 2004). |
| 39. Willis' Antbird Recently split form Dusky Antbird C. tyrannina. | Cercomacra laeta | Unknown threatlevel. Birdlife didn't split this species yet. Most probably red data species. | Lowland forest in Alagoas and Pernambuco. Probably best site is Murici. |
| 40. White-browed Antpitta | Hylopezus chroleucus | Uncommon. | Dense caatinga. Several sites, e.g. Una and Araripe. |
| 41. Stresemann's Bristlefront | Merulaxis stresemanni | Critical. Known from just three specimens and a fieldrecord. | Tropical lowland evergreen forest. Contrary to www.birdlife.org there is one fieldrecord: in 1995 near Una (Baudet (2001) Tangara1: 51-56. |
| 42. Bahia Tapaculo | Scytalopus psychopompus | Endangered, known from three specimens. Last record was a pair obtained in 1983 near Valenca. | Flooded areas of thick vegetation in tropical evergreen forest at ca. 45m. No known sites. |
| 43. Araripe Manakin | Antilophia bokermanni | Critical. Species described in 1998 (Ararajuba 6(2):81-84) | Tall, second growth forest with lots of vines. You can see this spectaculair species in Chapada do Araripe, the only known site in the world. |
| 44. Brazilian or Caatinga Black-Tyrant | Knipolegus franciscanus | Near-threatened. | Dry tropical deciduous forest on rich soils. Senhor do Bonfim is probably best site. |
| 45. Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant | Hemitriccus mirandae | Vulnerable. | Forest at 0-900m. Several sites known, but most common at Pedra Talhada in Alagoas. |
| 46. Bahia Tyrannulet | Phylloscartes beckeri | Endangered. Discovered in 1992 in Boa Nova and described in 1995. | Montane evergreen forest and edge at 900-1100m. Chapada Diamantina is your best bet. Rare at Boa Nova (ca. 10 pairs), where I was lucky to see this species. |
| 47. Alagoas or Long-tailed Tyrannulet | Phylloscartes ceciliae | Endangered. Species discovered in 1983 in Murici. | Forest at 400-550m. Only known from two sites: Murici (uncommon) and Pedra Talhada (rare), but in April 2003 also found in Pernambuco: Reserva Privada do Patrimonio Natural Frei Caneca near the town of Jaqueira (Cotinga nr.20, 2004). |
| 00. Brazilian Wagtail-Tyrant Split from Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant S. napensis |
Stigmatura bahiae | Uncommon | Fields with trees. Canudos (where I saw it), Petrolina, Lagoa Grande are good spots. |
| 48. Noronha Elaenia Split from E. spectabilis | Elaenia ridleyana | Vulnerable | Found on two islands of the Fernando do Noronha Archipelago. |
| 49. Campo Suiriri | Suiriri affinis | Fairly ommon | Cerrado, caatinga. Boa Nova dry, Canudos, etc |
| 50. White-naped Jay | Cyanocorax cyanopogon | Common. | Caatinga. I saw this species naer Canudos and in Chapada Diamantina. |
| 51. Rufous-brown Solitaire | Myadestes leucogenys | Rare. | Lowland forest. Recorded at Boa Nova. |
| 52. Noronha Vireo | Vireo gracilirostris | Near-threatened | Common in its small range: Fernando do Noronha. |
| 53. Grey-eyed Greenlet Split from Rufous-crowned Greenlet H. poicilotis | Hylophilus amaurocephalus | Fairly common. | Forest. I saw this species in Boa Nova. |
| 54. Pale Bay-winged Cowbird Split from M. badius | Molothrus fringillarius | Fairly common | Caatinga. E.g. found near Lagoa Grande or Canudos (I found it here fairly common). |
| 55. Forbe's Blackbird | Curaeus forbesi | Critical. | Tropical evergreen forest edge and freshwater marshes at 0-600m. Currently known from five widely scattered sites in east and NE Brazil. Least uncommon at Pedra Talhada, Alagoas. Maybe still present at nearby Pedra Branca. |
| 56. Cherry-throated Tanager | Nemosia rourei | Critical. Thought to be extinct but refound in 1998. | Currently only known from Fazenda Pindobas IV in Esperitu Santo, near Sooretama. |
| 57. Seven-coloured Tanager | Tangara fastuosa | Endangered. | Forest at 0-850m. Four remaining (known) sites: strongholds at Murici and Pedra Talhada in Alagoas. Also in the Serra dos Cavalos and near Goiana in Pernambuco. |
| 58. Scarlet-throated Tanager | Sericossypha loricata | Uncommon and local. | Forest near water. Best sites near Senhor do Bonfim and Jeremoabo. |
| 59. Red-cowled Cardinal | Paroaria dominicana | Common. | I saw it several times in any open area. |
| 60. White-throated Seedeater | Sporophila albogularis | Common. | Marshes, humid places in caatinga. I saw it near Lencois in Chapada Diamantina. |
| 61. Pale/Buff-throated Pampa-Finch | Embernagra longicauda | Near-threatened. | Arid montane scrub and agriculture land at 700-1300m. Best site is Chapada Diamantina, where I saw 15 birds. Also Senhor do Bonfim. |
| 62. Yellow-faced Siskin | Carduelis yarrellii | Vulnerable. Venezuela specimens origined probably from cage-birds and therefore treated as an endemic in this report. | Caatinga, forest edge, second growth, plantations and even large urban centres, 0-550m. Only known sites are all in Alagoas: recent records from Pedra Talhada, Murici and Usina Laginha. |
| 63. Sao Francisco Sparrow | Arremon franciscanus | Near-threatened. Species described in 1997 in Ch. Diamantina. | Thick scrub caatinga near forest. A good spot in Chapada Diamantina, where I saw 2 birds. Check www.arthurgrosset.com for more sites. |
The Birding Sites
See Map 1
| Site |
Birds/access |
Site |
Birds/access |
| 1. Linhares |
Excellent forest. |
13. Senhor do Bonfim |
Dry forest specials. |
| 2. Sooretama NP |
Excellent forest. Permit obligatory. |
14. Canudos / Jeremoabo |
Lear's Macaw: ask owners' permission. Caatinga specials |
| 3. Monte Pascoal NP |
Not very good forest. Permit&guide obligatory |
15. Petrolina |
Pygmy Nightjar, caatinga specialties. |
| 4. Porto Seguro |
Excellent forest. Permit&guide obligatory |
16. Lagoa Grande |
Pygmy Nightjar, Brazilian Wagtail-Tyrant, caatinga sp. |
| 5. Camaca |
Pink-legged Graveteiro, undescribed Treehunter |
17. Araripe |
Araripe Manakin: ask owner permission. Dry forest sp. |
| 6. Una EcoParque |
Excellent forest. Permit&guide obligatory |
18. Pedra Talhada |
Most Alagoas specialties. Military guidance obligatory. |
| 7. Boa Nova / Serra do Ouricana |
Best birding of Brazil. Ask owners'permission |
19. Murici |
All Alagoas specialties. 4WD, permit&guide obligat. |
| 8. Marau |
No must, site for Bahia Antwren. |
20. Jaqueira |
All Alagoas specialties. 4WD and permission needed (private) |
| 9. Santa Amaro |
Mangrove-specialties. |
21. Saltinho |
Pernambuco Pygmy-Owl. Access unknown, but private prop. |
| 10. Esplanada |
Fringe-backed Fire-eye. |
22. Serra de Baturite |
Caatinga and forest specials. |
| 11. Chapada Diamantina |
All hills/tablelands spec. |
23. Cipo |
Cipo Canestero, dry forest specials. |
| 12. Morro do Chapeu |
No must, site Visorbearer and Great Xenops. |
24. Fernando do Noronha |
Noronha Elaenia, Noronha Vireo, 10 species of seabird nest on the islands. |
Lowland Atlantic Forest. 4 Days of birding for Linhares and Sooretama would be sufficient.
Birds: Red-billed Curassow, Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike (split from Eastern Slaty-Shrike), Minute Hermit, Salvadori's Antwren.
Access: Escort of a guide is obligatory.
Accommodation: Pre-booking is obligatory in this private reserve, also when there are no guests.
Further information (including maps) at John van der Woude's website http://johnbirding.wolweb.nl.
Cherry-throated Tanager, though to be extinct, but refound in 1998 at Fazenda Pindobas IV in Esperitu Santo, near Sooretama. Currently still the only known site in the world.
Lowland Atlantic Forest.
Birds: same as Linhares plus Plumbeous Antshrike and Striated Softtail.
Access: An IBAMA-permit is obligatory.
Accommodation: take a hotel in Linhares (40 minutes or so away from the entrance of Linhares reserve); hotel Linhatur is chosen by many birders.
Further information (including maps) at John van der Woude's website http://johnbirding.wolweb.nl
3. Monte Pascoal NP
Pretty good Atlantic Forest, particularly good for raports. King Vulture is fairly common and Harpy Eagle is a possiblity. For other birds a visit is not a must if you go to either Porto Seguro or Una. At the visitor's centre it is possible to scan the canopy at eye-level from the comfort of a chair.
Over 40% of the land is allocated as an Indian reservation and their presence is annoyingly clear. Also hunting and degradation of the forest continues. One or two days will be sufficient to cover the area.
See Map 2
Birds: Excellent site for Black-headed Berryeater (visitor's centre), many raptors including White-necked Hawk (visitor's centre) and Banded Cotinga (access road or the summit walk (one hour climb), also good for White-necked Hawk).
Directions: 14 kms off the BR101 highway. You can bird along the access road, the summit walk to the top of Monte Pascoal and around the visitor's centre. The rest of the NP is not open for public.
Accommodation: At Itamaruja (30km away).
4. Porto Seguro (Estacao Veracruz)
Excellent lowland Atlantic Forest. Two or three days of birding is recommended for this site.
Birds: Most reliable site in the world for Banded Cotinga and White-winged Cotinga. Also good spot for Black-headed Berryeater, Ochre-marked Parakeet, Golden-tailed Parrotlet, Red-crowned Amazon, Hook-billed Hermit and many more Atlantic Forest specials.
Access & directions: Well signposted along the excellent road Eunapolis-Porto Seguro, 14 km west of Porto Seguro and 51 km east of Eunapolis. The Porto Seguro private reserve is named Estacao Veracruz. It's open for visitors, but make arrangments before visting. Park your car at the parking along the access-road, a few kms off the main road. At the parking starts a track to the left and at the open area is the visitor's centre, where also tracks start. I got kicked off the grounds at 8 o'clock because I didn't arrange a guide before my unplanned visit and no guide was available at the time.
The neighbouring CEPLAC Parc Nacional do Pau Brasil hold the same habitat, but access is restricted and probably difficult to arrange.
Accommodation: 14km from the nice holiday resort Porto Seguro. Here are plenty hotels and pousada's to stay, ranging from low-budget to 5star. At this oldest town of Brazil we started our holiday with shopping and relaxing on the beaches.
5a. Camaca (graveteiro-site)
Excellent site for the recently discovered Pink-legged Graveteiro. A species normally difficult to find in cacoa-plantations and probably easier at this spot.
Birds: Pink-legged Graveteiro and Golden-capped Parakeet.
Directions: Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
Just off the BR-101, south of Itabuna. For some good birding at the R.P.P.N. Serra Bonita, a private reserve, take the road to Jacarecí, passing the supermarkets Cesto do Povo and Super Sacolão (Km 0). Bear left after c.400m. After a speed bump and small shop (Km 10.2), turn left, opposite a bridge. A large sign has recently been installed. The track up to the telecomm. tower (Km 16.1) is rough and in wet weather slippery; it passes through good secondary growth. On 29 April 1999 four or five Pink-legged Graveteiro Acrobatornis fonsecai were building a nest practically at eye level in the trees by the access road to the research centre (Km 14.9 - 1.2km before the tower). We also saw Acrobatornis lower down and it can be seen in the cacau plantations along the Jacarecí road, but high up in the canopy. Golden-capped parakeet Aratinga auricapilla is fairly common in these plantations. In March 2004 we found Plumbeous Antvireo Dysithamnus plumbeus on the summit, just before the tower.
Accommodation: You can stay at the simple but clean Hotel Maracanã, near a square up the hill at the end of town.
5b. Camama (Serra das Lontras )
Birds: Pink-legged Graveteiro, Bahia Tyrannulet and an undescribed Treehunter.
Directions: Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
BirdLife has recently bought land in these hills, north of Camacã. The habitat is mainly "cabruca", plantations of cacau trees with tall forest trees left for shade. Pink-legged Graveteiro Acrobatornis fonsecai and Bahia Tyrannulet Phylloscartes beckeri are here, as is an undescribed Heliobletus Treehunter.
To get to the site take the BR-101 north from Camacã. After about 20 km you reach a road off to the left, signposted to Jussari. Opposite this road turn right onto a dirt road to Itatingui. At the end of the village of Itatingui take a rough track to the right to the fazenda de Dra. Katira. Keep asking for the 'fazenda de Dotoura Katira.' Leave the car at the fazenda and walk up a steep trail, through cabruca and then, near the ridge, secondary growth
Accommodation: Simple accomodation at the Pousada
Fazenda Liberdade about 1 km north of the turning to Itatingui.
6. Una EcoParque
Excellent lowland (swamp-) forest, but no must when you've birded Porto Seguro and/or Monte Pascoal well. Two days of birding is enough to cover the area.
Birds: many Atlantic Forest endemics are easily seen here, e.g. Golden-tailed Parrotlet (good spot for this one), Bahia Antwren, Pileated Antwren. If you're lucky you'll even see the highly endemic small monkey Bahia Lion Tamarind Leontopithecus chrysomelas,still present only near Una. If you're extremely lucky you'll see the Stresemann's Bristlefront, as world's last record of this species was near Una in 1995.
Directions & access: Ca. 50km east of the BR 101. Access is easy: go to the gate (even without appointment, for appointments call 032-73-6342179), where a 4WD truck and driver will take you to the park. A good track for birding is a trail which leads to an impressive canopy walkway. The guide was very good and whistled in some manakins at noon.
Next door is IBAMA's Reserva Biological de Una. Nowadays access is virtually impossible as permits are not even granted via the HQ of IBAMA in Brasilia. If you can get in, 400m after the entrance is a spot for White-winged Potoo. Gladly, the access road is probably the best part of this forest, so a visit would certainlly be productive. The tamarins are seen here as well as White-winged Cotingas.
Accomodation: At Una (few km) are some grimm hotels. I'll definitely recommend the quiet touristic resort of at Canavieiras (54km away) with its lovely pousadas at the oceanbeach. If you insist staying closer to the EcoParque try to find nice Pousada Vila do Mar: ca. 12 km south of Una and a further 2.7km on the turn-off road to Hotel Transamaricas.
7a. Boa Nova dry forest
Boa Nova, with it's dry and wet forest nearby, is probably the best birding site of Brazil. The unprotected area hold an amazing variety of rarely-seen endemics. One or two days would be sufficient to cover the dry forest. Map based on recent reports:
See Map 3
Birds: This small dry forest patch is world's best site for Slender Antbird and Narrow-billed Antwren. Also present are White-browed Antpitta, Pileated Antwren, Hang-nest Tody-Tyrant, Silvery-cheeked Antshrike, Stripe-backed Antbird, Spotted Piculet, Grey-headed Spinetail (rare). The tracks to the forest are very small old cattle trails, except the broad trail by the gates.
Access: the city of Boa Nova is ca 150km inland and 16km off the BR116, well signposted. To avoid problems (in the future for other birders) it's recommended to ask the landowner, living in the white house, to ask permission to enter his land. After birding, you can give a tip to the owner.
Accommodation: 3 simple hotels in town: 'Ao Vivi' is a recently build hotel at the main square (with very unfriendly staff), Hotel Solar and Hotel Central.
Sargeant & Wall made also a map in 1995. The map is probably outdated, but reproduced anyway as it can assist in your goal finding the specials:
See map 4
7b. Boa Nova wet forest (Serra do Ouricana)
Spectaculair birding. I birded here only one morning and even at noon lifers were recorded all the time, including several antbirds. A 3-4 days visit is required to adequately cover the area.
See Map 5
Birds: Many specials at the best known birding trail: Broad-tipped Hermit, Striated Softtail, Spotted Piculet, Mantled Hawk, Rio de Janeiro Antbird, and also Ochre-breasted, Buff-fronted, White-collared & White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner, Golden-tailed Parrotlet, Ochre-breasted Parakeet, Bahia Spintetail (rare), Bahia Tyrannulet, Pin-tailed Manakin, Oustalet's Tyrannulet, Rufous-brown Solitaire, Swallow-tailed Cotinga and the list goes on and on.
I only birded this trail, 600-1000 metres from the main road. There is at least one other excellent birding trail, but directions are unclear as people give different descriptions of the site. Probably they refer to different trails into the forest.
At the marsh you can find Rufous-sided Crake, Blackish Rail and Black-capped Screech-Owl. Sargeant & Wall refer to a pond with marshy area 1.9km from the main road, at the left side of the driveable track, after a gate.
The trail 2.1km after the first birding trail is across the hillside on the left to a bamboo-rich forest patch. This is a good spot for Rio de Janeiro Antbird and a tapaculo, probably Mouse-collared Tapaculo but just maybe a yet undescribed species. Sargeant & Wall describe a trail 1.9km from the main road, beyond the gate, the pond/marsh and past a house, fence and plamtation. They had here an impressive list of recorded species in 3 days of birding, exploring different trails in the forest.
There is a lookout 3.4 km after the first birding trail, where Mantled Hawk is seen.
Of course the driveable track itself is worth exploring, Sargeant & Wall had here Striated Softtail, Ruby Topaz Hummingbird and Scale-throated Hermit.
Access: No permits or guides needed. I didn't ask for permission and had no problem, but maybe it's better first ask for permission at the house. The main dirtroad is excellent.
8. Marau
Birds: Good spot I you miss Bahia Antwren, Capped Seedeater and Black-faced Tanager on your list.
Directions: Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
Turn left off the BR 101 into the centre of Ubaitaba and drive back along the river bank, passing under the BR 101. The dirt federal BR 030 highway along the Maraú peninsular is dirt, very rough and in wet weather will require 4 x 4 drive. The c.60km to the beach at Saquaira takes almost 3 hours. An alternative is to drive to Itacaré (asphalt all the way), take the ferry across the Rio de Contas, and drive 34km (1 hr). Look for black-faced tanager Schistochlamys melanopis and capped seedeater Sporophila bouvreuil in bushes in the sandy grasslands on the long straight before Maraú. There is good restinga forest along the northern access road from the BR 030 to the town of Maraú, where in January 2001 there were several pairs of Bahia antwren Herpsilochmus pileatus. 14km north of Saquaíra, on the road to Campinho (carry straight on at the right turn to Barra Grande) there are tidal mud flats surrounded by mangroves. They begin to dry out one and a half hours before low water. In January 2001 there were eight species of shorebirds here. It appeared an ideal place to find little wood-rail Aramides mangle but I was unsuccessful.
Accommodation: At Saquaíra is fine accommodation at the Pousada Maraú pmarau@uol.com.br in an idyllic setting on the beach.
9a. Santa Amaro
Birds: Fringe-backed Fire-eye.
Fringe-backed Fire-eye: take a tape with you. It also responds on tapes of other fire-eyes. One morning is probably enough to see the species. The map is extracted from the excellent report of Beadle, Bostock, Hornbuckle & Kirwan 'Birding in Eastern Brazil, January-March 1995':
See Map 6
Accommodation: At the pleasant colonial town of Cachoeira (31 km).
9b. Sao Francisco do Conde
Birds: Little Wood-Rail, Bicoloured Conebill, Rufous-winged Antshrike.
Directions: Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
This is (or was) a stakeout for little wood-rail Aramides mangle. Where the road from Candeias to São Francisco do Conde is joined by the road from Santo Amaro there is a bus shelter beside a rough track. Follow this track to where it ends in mangroves beside the river. This was a reliable place for the wood-rail but in recent years it appears to have been replaced by clapper rail Rallus longirostris which John Wall did not see but which was common in 2001. We did not see the wood-rail but did find some other interesting birds here, such as plain-bellied emerald Amazilia leucogaster, rufous-winged antshrike Thamnophilus torquatus and Cinereous-breasted spinetail Synallaxis hypospodia. Half way along the track turn right down to mud flats with waders.
One morning with low tide is sufficient to cover this site. Map extracted with permission from Sargeant & Wall's 1995 report:
See Map 7
10. Esplanada
Birds: Fringe-backed Fire-eye.
Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
In November 2001 we found a new site for fringe-backed fire-eye Pyriglena atra, about 100km from the site near Estãncia, Sergipe. Look for a conspicuous telecommunications tower at Km 20 on the BR-101 (20 km south of the Bahia / Sergipe state border). The birds were in a forest remnant on the other side of the road. We found them there again in March 2004.
11. Chapada Diamantina
I experienced the effects of the heaviest rainfall in the caatinga area since 1960: the caatinga was green and leafy and the birds were harder to find than usual. This beautiful region, with highly diverse habitats, is described in detail, with a list of birds, in an article by Ricardo Parrini et al. in Cotinga 11. Together with the Noronha islands and Porto Seguro this is the only place in NE Brazil where it is excellent birding at/near a touristic site. A minimum of four days is required to cover the area.
Birds: undescribed antbird, possible new species of tapaculo, Hooded Visorbearer, Sao Francisco Sparrow, Bahia Spintetail, Great Xenops, Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant, Buff-throated Pampa-Finch, Grey-backed Tachuri, White-browed Guan, Broad-tipped Hermit, Golden-capped Parakeet, Red-shouldered Spinetail, White-naped Jay, Rufous-winged Antshrike, Spotted Piculet, Brown Violetear, ducks, waterbirds, hummingsbirds.
See Map 8
Directions: Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
Lençois : There are several good areas to bird near Lençois. One is the trail over the mountains to Capão which starts at the top of the town, opposite the hotel Portal Lençois. In the campo rupestre (dry montane scrub on rocks) look for the undescribed form of Formicivora antbird whose song is Example 2 for Formicivora rufa on Isler and Whitney's Songs of the Antbirds. A little further up this trail there are two patches of humid gallery forest, locally called mata de grota, and in the second of these, in March 2004, I recorded a tapaculo with a slow song, probably a member of the Scytalopus speluncae / novacapitalis complex which is presently being studied by several ornithologists.
Another good area is the road to Remanso. Take the road out of town, zeroing the odometer at the petrol station. At 3.9km turn right off the main road. At the first fork you can bear left through secondary growth to Capitinga and the BR 242 (said to be good for Rufous Nightjar Caprimulgus rufus). Bearing right at this fork and left at the next takes you to a fazenda; keep up to the left, avoiding the buildings, and drive down to the lake along a track which leads to a pump house beside a clump of bamboos. This is a good place for marsh and water birds. [In 2001 acess to this lake was closed] Bearing right at the second fork puts you on the road to the village of Remanso (c.25km from Lençois). The road passes through some good forest, with tracks leading off it. When you get to a cross roads, about 3km from Remanso, turn left (the track straight ahead is barely driveable but good for birding). In the open areas before the village there is Little Nightjar Caprimulgus parvulus.About 1km after the village fork left (the right fork goes to a farm house). This track is very overgrown but leads to good forest beside the "marimbús" (the local name for the extensive wetlands all along this valley). The marimbús are well worth visiting by boat, which can be arranged in Remanso or through Lentour in Lençois.
At Km 2.5 on the road from Lençois to the BR 242 (9.2km from the petrol station) there is a track to the left called Toalhas. I have not birded this.
At the BR 242 turn left. There is a track to the right after c.200m which is birded by the Field Guides groups. Further on (1.7km from the junction) there is a dirt road to the right to Usina Velha. This goes down the hill through reasonable secondary growth and after 2.5km crosses the Rio Mucugezinho. This looks a good place for a picnic or swim.
Continuing west along the BR 242, 11.2km from the Lençois junction, the road crosses a bridge with a sign "Divisa Lençois / Palmeiras". 1.3km after this bridge (just after the Morro do Pai Inâcio first comes into view) there is a dirt track to the left, leading down to a house in some mango trees. This is the start of an excellent trail back to Lençois which takes about four hours. You can take the Seabra bus from Lençois to the start of the trail. At the start of this trail, in March 2004, we found an immature male of the undescribed form of Formicivora antbird mentioned above.
The Morro do Pai Inácio is a good place to see Hooded Visorbearer Augastes lumachella and Pale-throated Serra-Finch Embernagra longicauda. This is a much more convenient and dependable site than Morro do Chapéu for these two endemics. I am told the visorbearer can be found near the car park but I have had better luck at the plateau on the right, half way up the path to the top (the view from which is spectacular). In November 2001 we found several Band-winged Nightjars Caprimulgus longirostris on this plateau.
Palmeiras: 18km after the Pai Inácio turn left to Palmeiras. Drive through the town (54km from Lençois) and after 2.2km turn right to Tejuco and Lavrinha. Leave your car at the bridge and walk up the hill, at first through dry gallery forest and then through caatinga. All the caatinga species are here, including Broad-tipped Hermit Phaethornis gounellei, Red-shouldered Spinetail Gyalophylax hellmayri and San Francisco Sparrow Arremon franciscanus. Great Xenops Megaxenops parnaguae is common, but is not easy to see without playback.
Continuing along this road, which is rough but driveable, you pass by some spectacular mountains and then reach patches of cerrado habitat, called "gerais" locally. The best gerais we found were about 38km from Palmeiras, after Guiné. Rufous-sided Pygmy-Tyrant Euscarthmus rufomarginatus is common here. After a further 37km you get to Mucugê.
Mucugê: The "campos rupestres" and
cerrado on the road from Mucugê to Andaraí and along the two access roads
to Igatu are worth visiting
Bonito: Humid forest at 1000m elevation. This site is about 132km from
Lençois. Turn right from Lençois onto the BR 242 and after 34km turn left
(at an electrical substation) onto the BA 142 to Wagner, Utinga, and Bonito.
At Bonito take the road to Morro do Chapéu; 2.2km from the roundabout at the
end of Bonito turn right onto a dirt road. After a further 5.8km there is
a green gate on the left (Fazenda da Mata Doida). There is good birding both
on the road and along the track into the forest on the other side of the gate.
Accommodation Lencois: Plenty hotels for every budget. An excellent place to stay is the pousada "Casa da Geléia" run by José Carlos and Lia (www.casadageleia.com.br ,tel/fax 075-334-1151, casadageleia@hotmail.com), in the road behind the petrol station, as you enter the town of Lencois. José Carlos speaks English, they have a big garden and have had 14 different species of hummingbird at their feeders, including, occasionally, the rare (in Brazil) Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae. Lia provides early breakfast on a tray or a sumptuous feast at 8:00 am. She will also cook dinner by prior arrangement. We stayed at the excellent and cheap Parque Hotel just outside of the northern site of Lencois, set in a beautiful natural setting giving a perfect holiday-feeling.
Accommodation Palmeiras: A few cheap and basic hotels, but tourism is picking up here and new hotels will be built here soon.
12. Morro do Chapeu
Named after the hat-shaped hill just south of town. Not a must for birders as Chapada Diamantina is more reliable for the two specialties, but maybe a good stopover as travelling in north-east Brazil is time consuming.
Birds: Great Xenops, Hooded Visorbearer. Also Grey-backed Tachuri, Pale-throated Serra-Finch, Broad-tippes Hermit, Caatinga Antwren, White-naped Jay, Silvery-cheeked Antshrike, Spotted Piculet, Blond-crested Woodpecker, Golden-capped Parakeet, Yellow-legged Tinamou, Tataupa Tinamou.
Directions: The visorbearer can be seen early morning at the top of the hill or even at the car park at the end of the road. The rest of the species are lower down along the road on the same Morro do Chapeau. Map extracted with permission from Sargeant & Wall's 1995 report:
See Map 9
Great Xenops and Hooded Visorbearer are also present at the Cachoeira (waterfall) 18km east of town on the BA 052. Leave Morro de Chapeu eastward for 18km on the BA052 toward Feira de Santana and stop at the bridge across a wide, rocky river-bed. Although not visible from the bridge, the spectacular waterfall (given sufficient water) falls into a deep caynon 200 metres from the road, on the north side. The short walk to peer over the edge of the waterfall is highly recommended, though not for those with a fear of heights. Also present here are Cinnamon Tanager and White-vented Violetear.
Accommodation: the pleasant Palace Hotel in town.
13. Senhor do Bonfim
This area should be excellent, as it holds the same habitat as the dry forest of Boa Nova. Not many birders go here though since better birding sites are found.
Birds: Great Xenops (southeast of Serrinha), Pheasant Cuckoo, Pileated Antwren, Southern Pochard (BR 407 between Capim Grosso and Senhor do Bonfim), Scarlet-throated Tanager (rubbish dump near Filadelfia). Also Caatinga Black-Tyrant: a female seen by Flavio de Lima on 6 Jan 1997 on a "lajeiro", or rocky outcrop, in caatinga close to the village of São Tomé, municipality of Campo Formoso, Bahia. Campo Formoso is about 20 km southwest of Senhor do Bonfim, along the highway between Salvador and Juazeiro/Petrolina. Good caatinga cannot be found any closer to town than 41km north of Senhor do Bonfim: map extracted with permission from Sargeant & Wall's 1995 report:
See Map 10
14. Canudos / Jeremoabo
A must on every itinerary, as it is the last site on earth where Lear's Macaws still roam. Estimates vary between 180 (birdlife) and 350 (owner fazenda). This species, thought to be extinct, was finally re-discovered in 1978 by Sick. Visiting the sleeping grounds of the macaws is not recommended, you'll need IBAMA-permit, IBAMA-guide and it involves a mini-expedition to get to the roosting site in the caynons.
The whole Canudis-Jeremoabo area is known as Rasa da Catarina. Forrester found good caatinga just east of Canudos, but nowadays this area is cultivated. A minimum of 2-3 days is required to cover the area.
See Map 11
Birds: Lear's Macaw (an appointment is not nescessary, but give the landowner Ze Hilton a good tip!), Pectoral Antwren (a tape is useful, present at the greener woodlands and in nearby cactus vegetation). Also: caatinga specials present along the bad dirtroad (15-20km p/h on average) Jeremoabo-Canudos and at the dirtroad and adjenct trails south of Canudos: Caatinga Antshrike, Red-shouldered Spinetail, Little Nightjar, Scarlet-throated Tanager, Brazilian Wagtail-Tyrant, Blue-winged Macaws, Silvery-cheeked Antshrikes, Caatinga/Cactus Parakeet (common), Least Nighthawk, Broad-tipped Hermit, White-naped Jay (common), Red-legged Seriema, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, White-widged Piculet, Black-bellied Antwren, Stripe-backed Antwren, Ash-throated Casiornis, etc.
On the Fazenda's near Jeremoabo, owned by Sr. Otávio, the owner of the São Lázaro petrol station in Jeremoabo, Arthur Grosset found Great Xenops and Pectoral Antwren in March 2004.
Accomodation: Basic Hotel Brazil at the western end of Canudos. At Jeremoabo there are several options. We stayed at the most 'expensive' hotel Sr do Bonfim near the main square: clean and pleasant.
15. Petrolina
This is no must if you covered the caatinga well. One night and morning is sufficient to see the specials.
Birds: Little Nightjar, Least Nighthawk, Caatinga Cacholote. Also Red-shouldered Spinetail, White-bellied Tinamou, Stripe-breasted Starthroat, both Wagtail-Tyrants, White-throated Seedeater, Tropical Screech-Owl.
Directions: no precise directions are known to me. Birdtours stop here overnight in transit to Jeremoabo/Canudos.
16. Lagoa Grande
This spot, 58km northeast of Petrolina, is good for some recent splits. One night and morning is sufficient.
Birds: Pygmy Nightjar, Brazilian Wagtial-Tyrant, Greater Wagtail-Tyrant, Caatinga Cacholote, Pale-winged Cowbird, Velvety Black-Tyrant.
Directions: best spot for birds is the very degraded caatinga near Lagoa Grande.
17. Araripe
A must on every itinerary as it is the only known site for the recently discovered beautiful Araripe Manakin. Evergreen forest, dry forest and caatinga habitats near each other makes this an excellent birding site. Three days are required to cover the area.
Birds: Araripe Manakin. Probably best spot for Tawny Piculet, White-browed Guan and Great Xenops. Also: Red-shouldered Spineteail, White-browed Antpitta, Black-bellied Antwren, Ash-throated Casiornis, Ling-billed Wren, Grey-eyed Greenlet, Rufous Nightjar, Caatinga Antwren, White-naped Jay.
Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
This is the mecca for the Araripe manakin Antilophia bokermanni. The type locality for the species, the Nascente do Farias near the town of Barbalha, has changed radically since I was there in 1998. It was then a simple swimming and picnic spot but is now being developed as a huge leisure complex, Arajara Park - a sort of tropical Wet ´n´ Wild. A new road from Barbalha to Crato has been built, giving access to the park. The manakins are in the trees along the two streams that flow from the spring at the foot of the hill and appear unperturbed by living on a building site. However, we found only female plumaged birds here. The owner of the Arajara Park, Dna. Fabiola, let us look for the manakins in the valley of the Nascente do Céu, behind her house, but there were only female plumaged birds there as well. Eventually we found a magnificent adult male further along the escarpment. The best plan is to make enquiries at the Arajara Park and get information and permission from the owners of the land you will have to cross to find the birds.
Above Barbalha there is good caatinga, where we had the usual species for this habitat, including red-shouldered spinetail Gyalophylax hellmayri. Take the road out of town up the hill, towards Jardim. 14,5 km from the turning to Caldas and the Hotel das Fontes there is an IBAMA protected area. Bird the side road to the right.
Above Crato there is dry forest, with White-browed Guan Penelope jacucaca, Rufous Nightjar Caprimulgus rufus, Tawny Piculet Picumnus fulvescens and Ash-throated Casiornis Casiornis fusca. Take the road up the hill and turn right, sign-posted to Nova Olinda. There is a track to the right after 1.8km. If you go straight on instead of turning right to Nova Olinda, you soon come to an IBAMA compound on the left. On the opposite side of the road there is a disused airfield. In the dry forest along the runway we found the guan and a number of caatinga species, such as white-browed antpitta Hylopezus ochroleucus, caatinga (formerly pileated) antwren Herpsilochmus sellowi (alongside black-capped antwren H. atricapillus) and Great Xenops Megaxenops parnaguae.
Accommodation: Right on the spot, in Arajara Park.
18. Pedra Talhada
Once this was the birding hotspot of Alagoas, but deforesting and difficult access make this site far less popular these days. Organized tours in recent years go to Murici as this is the only other (accessible) site for the four Alagoas specials. The tours miss out on Forbe's Blackbird as Pedra Talhada is the only site for critical endangered Forbe's Blackbird in the NE and only a few sites remain in Brazil for this endemic. To see this species you don't have to go with an escort as it is present before the warden's house. One morning should be enough for the blackbird. If you want to cover the whole area it'll take 3-4 days.
See Map 12
Birds Pedra Talhada (see inlet map): Forbe's Blackbird (common), White-collared Hawk, Yellow-faced Siskin, Alagoas Tyrannulet, Alagoas Foliage-Gleaner, Orange-bellied Antwren, Alagoas Antwren, Pinto's Spinetail, Seven-colored Tanager, Scalloped Antbird, Long-tailed Woodnymph, Jandaya Parakeet (Sun Parakeet split), Black-headed Berry-eater, Tawny Piculet, Mantled Hawk, Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant.
Birds marsh near Palmeira dos Indios: Russet-crowned Crake, South American Snipe, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Least Bittern.
Access: last details known to me are from the 1995 trip of Beadle et al: it is a reserve, guarded by military police. A military escort is obligatory and you'll have to ask the chief for permission to enter. The chief is at the nearby town Quebrangulo: Cicero Valdevino da Silva, Rua Castelo Branco 97, Cha do Pilar, Alagoas, C.O.P. 57150-00. Beadle did see many specialties, but lost time in the forest because of the hassle and missed out on 3 Alagoas specials.
[Peter Lonsdale (CA, USA) e-mailed me in June 2004, after publication of this report on internet:
"When I visited Pedra Talhada a couple of years ago (after an easy drive in a rented compact car which I parked at the school) there was no nonsense about a "military police escort" -- I arrived unannounced at 0730 to find a very pleasant park warden in the "warden's house"; indicated with binoculars that I wanted to watch birds (I speak no Portuguese) and he pointed the way up the path with a smile and wished me good luck. A great birding day in a region with very little sign of ongoing deforestation, though I did miss the Siskin. Well past the warden's house I saw the Forbe’s Blackbird)". ]
19. Murici (see map at nr. 18)
Until recently this 6000ha of Atlantic Forest is the only spot for the four Alagoas specialties, in 2003 also found also at Jaqueira in Pernambuco. Murici is a not to miss spot if you want to see all endemics. A minimum of 4 days is required to see the specials.
Birds: Orange-bellied Antwren, Alagoas Tyrannulet, Alagoas Antwren and Alagoas Foliage-gleaner. Also: Plain/Pinto's Spinetail, Seven- colored Tanager, White-collared Kite, Long-tailed Woodnymph, the future split Alagoas (Plain-brown) Woodcreeper, the yet undescribed subspecies of Red-stained Woodpecker and many more (red data) species. Including the possible split Alagoas Purpletuft.
Access: permit required but forest is accessible without one, 4WD probably required. The site is 70 km northwest of Maceio.
Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
The road to the IBAMA reserve, near Fazenda Bananeiras, is very bad and you will need four-wheel drive if there has been any rain. Take a dirt road to the right off the BR-104 (signposted Fazenda Serra Nova), 700m north of the entrance to Murici. The way is complicated, with many tracks to the right and left. Keep to the "main" road. At a T junction with another "main" dirt road, turn left. Ask for Estreito and then Bananeiras. There is a small dam on the left at Bananeiras. The reserve is up the hill after the hamlet, forking left near the top. There is a chain (unlocked when we were there and no guard) at the entrance, 16.4km from the asphalt. The forest remnant along the left of the road before the reserve is good for Long-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania watertonii, Pinto's Spinetail Synallaxis infuscata and Smoky-fronted Tody-flycatcher Poecilotriccus fumifrons. Look inside the reserve for the local specialities: Scalloped Antbird Myrmeciza ruficauda, Orange-bellied Antwren Terenura sicki, Alagoas Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ceciliae, Alagoas Antwren Myrmotherula snowi and Alagoas foliage-gleaner Philydor novaesi (in order of increasing difficulty).
There is another bit of good forest, slightly lower, beside the telecom tower on the left of the BR-101, 16km north of the junction with the BR-104.
Nearby Fazenda Pedra Branca is deforested and no longer a site good for birding. Nearby Fazenda Bananeira is also an excellent birding spot. About 10kms north of the Murici junction on the BR 101 lies a very rough track, known as Usina Bititinga II, though perhaps only drivable during the dry months from October to February. This track leads west towards Murici, and after 10 kms one reaches the village of Bititinga. From here a really rough track leads 11 kms north, into excellent forest, though a tractor or horse are required for this second leg. The 4 specials are should be still present here.
Accommodation: The best but most expensive place to stay is the Quilombo Parque hotel in União dos Palmares. It is pleasantly situated with plenty of birds in the grounds, including Seven-colored tanager. It takes at least 50 minutes to get to the Murici reserve from the hotel.
20. Jaqueira
Birds: In 2003 the four critical endangered Murici-Alagoas specialties were found here: Orange-bellied Antwren, Alagoas Tyrannulet, Alagoas Antwren and Alagoas Foliage-gleaner.
Access: 4WD and permission needed.
Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
The R.P.P.N. Frei Caneca is a private reserve owned by the Usina Colônia sugar mill with excellent montane forest. Besides the four specialties, other interesting birds are Scalloped Antbird Myrmeciza ruficauda and Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus mirandae.
To get permission to visit the reserve write to Dr. José Alves Siqueira siqueira@ufpe.br at the Federal University of Pernambuco. To get there take the road from Palmares to Garanhuns. A few kms after Jaqueira there is an asphalt road to the right, signposted "Usina Colônia".
At the gatehouse ask for directions to the reserve or, better still, get a friendly motorcyclist to take you there. The reserve is 9 km from the Usina up a steep dirt road and you will need four-wheel drive, especially if there has been any rain. There is accomodation for visitors in a well furnished house but you must take all your own food. The wife of the the reserve guard will do the cooking and her husband will accompany you into the forest.
21. Saltinho
Birds: Pernambuco Pygmy-Owl. This critical endangered species was only described in described in December 2002 (Ararajuba 10(2). It has since frequently found by biologists in evergreen forest in Reserva Biological de Saltinho (4,8km2), which is not (yet?) visited by birdtours. There is also one record in Usina Trapiche, Sirinhaem. Also in the state of Pernambuco.
Access, directions & acommodation: unknown.
22. Serra de Baturite
Birds: Gould's Toucanet, Buff-breasted Tody-Tyrant, Ochraceous Piculet, probably split off Rufous Gnateater Conopophaga (lineata) cearae. Also: Moustached Woodcreeper (rare), Blond-crested Woodpecker, Grey-headed Spinetail, Planalto Slaty Antshrike. 2-3 Days is sufficient to cover the area.
Directions: 800m high hills south of Fortaleza. The lowlands are covered in dry thorn-scrub, but on the isolated hilltops dense evergreen forest can be found. In the private forest behind the Hotel Remanso all species can be found.
23. Serra do Intendente: Cipo
Birds: Cipo Canastero, Hyacinth Visorbearer.
Accommodation: Pousada Chão da Serra or pousada Veraneio at Cipo village.
All information (including maps) at John van der Woude's website http://johnbirding.wolweb.nl.
24. Fernando do Noronha
Birds: Best surfing of Brazil, also 2 islands endemics: Noronha Elaenia & Noronha Vireo plus at 10 breeding species of seabird.
Information extracted from www.arthurgrosset.com/sitenotes/northeastbrazil :
This island, 400 km off the northeast coast of Brazil, boasts two endemics: Noronha Elaenia Elaenia ridleyana (considered by some a subspecies of Large Elaenia E. spectabilis) and Noronha Vireo Vireo gracilirostris. Both species are common. Ten species of seabird nest in the archipelago: Red-billed and White-tailed Tropicbird Phaethon aethereus and P. lepturus, Masked, Red-footed and Brown Booby Sula dactylatra, S. sula and S. leucogaster, Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens, Sooty Tern Sterna fuscata, Brown and Black Noddy Anous stolidus and A. minutus and White Tern Gygis alba. All these except Red-billed Tropicbird are easy to see, though the main concentration of Masked Booby is on the Rasa and Sela Gineta islands and you will need a boat to see them at close range. Josivan Rabêlo da Silva (aka Bam), an IBAMA park guard, is very friendly and helpful and will take birders to the offshore nesting colonies which can be reached on foot at low tide.
The beaches and skin and scuba diving are superb. There are daily flights to the island from Recife. A tourist tax of R$23 (US$8) per day is charged. There is a wide choice of pousadas and bed and breakfast accomodation at fairly exorbitant prices. I paid R$240 per day for two rooms for three people in a B&B. The main island is about 17 km long and a beach buggy is convenient to get around. We hired one for R$80 per day. The only crime on the island is theft of petrol so take care!
These are the 198 species (of which 17 red data species and 21 endemics of NE Brazil) seen by me on my two-week trip to Bahia. On trip I only birded on 7 mornings, therefore this list is not very impressing. Black species are endemic to NE Brazil. Red data species are marked.
Again, English and scientific names are according to Deodato Souza's All the birds of Brazil (2002), with updates about taxonomy extracted from various books and magazines.
1. White-bellied Tinamou - Nothura boraquira
Chapada Diamantina - one flushed near the marsh just north of Lencois.
2. Great Egret - Egretta alba
Fairly common.
3. Snowy Egret - Egretta thula
A few birds seen.
4. Striated Heron - Butorides striatus
Fairly common
5. Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis
Locally very common.
6. White-faced Tree-Duck - Dendrocygna viduata
While heading to Chapada Diamantina 15 birds in a lake.
7. White-cheecked Pintail - Anas bahamensis
While driving to Chapada Diamantina 7 birds in a lake.
8. Southern Pochard - Netta erythrophthalma
While driving to Chapada Diamantina 6 birds in 2 little lakes.
9. Black Vulture - Coragyps atratus
Common.
10. Turkey Vulture - Cathartes aura
Common.
11. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture - Cathartes burrovianus
Small numbers.
12. White-tailed Kite - Elanus leucurus
Chapada Diamantina - one near Palmeiras
13. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle - Geranoatus melanoleucus
One on the road to Chapada Diamantina.
14. Roadside Hawk - Buteo magnirostris
Small numbers.
15. Yellow-headed Caracara - Milvago chimachima
Small numbers.
16. Southern Caracara - Polyborus plancus (Northern
Caracara is recently split)
Small numbers.
17. Aplomado Falcon - Falco femoralis
Chapada Diamantina - one bird near the marsh just north of Lencois
18. Grey-necked Wood-Rail - Aramides cajanea
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - 3 birds early morning near a little marsh.
19. Wattled Jacana - Jacana jacana
Small numbers.
20. Southern Lapwing - Vanellus chilensis
Common.
21. Black-bellied Plover - Pluvialis squatarola
Small numbers.
22. Semipalmated Plover - Charadrius semipalmatus
Small numbers along the coast.
23. Ruddy Turnstone - Arenaria interpres
Small numbers along the coast.
24. Solitary Sandpiper - Tringa solitaria
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
25. Spotted Sandpiper - Acitis macularia
Small numbers.
26. Picazuro Pigeon - Columba picazuro
Small numbers.
27. Eared Dove - Zenaida auricultata
Canudos - small numbers.
28. Common Ground-Dove - Columbina passerina
Canudos - small numbers.
29. Plain-breasted Ground-Dove - Columbina minuta
Common inland.
30. Ruddy Ground-Dove - Columbina talpacoti
Common.
31. Picui Ground-Dove - Columbina picui
Fairly common.
32. Scaled Dove - Scardafella squammata
Common.
33. Ruddy Quail-Dove - Geotrygon montana
Chapada Diamantina - at least one near the marsh just north of Lencois.
34. Lear's or Indigo
Macaw - Anodorhynchus leari - CRITICAL
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - 6 birds at the famous fazenda at 9am, feeding
on the licuri palms. The birds arrive at the fazenda's 2-3 hours after sunrise
to feed. They sleep 100s km away in the caynons, where Sick finally tracked
this species down in 1978. Apart from the dirtroad, transport to this site
is easy and visiting this last site for this species is no longer 'a mini-expedition
like in Bruce Forrester's days.
35. Blue-winged Macaw - Propyrrhura maracana - VULNERABLE
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
36. Cactus or Caatinga
Parakeet - Aratinga cactorum
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos, Dirtroad south of Canudos, Chapada Diamantina
- common.
Boa nova - small numbers.
37. Peach-fronted Parakeet - Aratinga aurea
Small numbers.
38. Golden-capped Parakeet
- Aratinga auricapilla - VULNERABLE
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - one group of 15 birds.
39. Reddish-bellied or Maroon-bellied Parakeet -
Pyrrhura frontalis
Boa Nova - 5 birds in the canopy of the wet forest.
40. Blue-winged Parrotlet - Forpus xanthopteryhgius
Common.
41. Plain Parakeet - Brotogeris titica
Common.
42. Blue-headed Parrot - Pionus menstruus reichenowi
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - 5 birds of the eastern subspecies with the
blue breast and belly.
43. Red-crowned Amazon - Amazona rhodocorytha -
ENDANGERED
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - 3 birds.
44. Squirrel Cuckoo - Piaya cayana
Chapada Diamantina - common in forests.
45. Guira Cuckoo - Guira guira
Common.
46. Burrowing Owl - Athene cunicularia
Common inland.
47. Pauraque - Nyctidromus albicollis
Common when spotlighting near touristic areas along the coast.
48. Fork-tailed Palm-Swift - Reinarda squamata
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers just north of Lencois
49. Brown Violet-ear - Colobri delphinea
Chapada Diamantina - one bird.
50. Planalto Hermit - Phaethornis pretrei
Small numbers along the coast at touristic places.
Chapada Diamantina - common at the feeders at Casa da Geleia in Lencois.
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
51. Broad-tipped Hermit
- Phaethornis gounellei
Chapada Diamantina - an excellent sighting of one bird at the Great Xenops
spot near Palmeiras.
52. Reddish Hermit - Phaethornis ruber
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - one bird.
Una EcoParque - one bird.
53. Swallow-tailed Hummingbird - Eupetomena macroura
Small numbers.
54. Frilled Coquette - Lophornis magnifica
Chapada Diamantina - one female at the feeders at Casa da Geleia, the pousada
in Lencois run by English speaking Brazilian birder Jose Carlos.
55. Glittering-bellied Emerald - Cholorostibon aureoventris
Small numbers along the coast.
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
56. Violet-capped Woodnymph - Thalurania glaucopis
Chapada Diamantina - common at the feeders at Casa da Geleia, the pousada
in Lencois run by English speaking Brazilian birder Jose Carlos.
57. Versicolored Emerald - Amazilia versicolor
Chapada Diamantina - common at the feeders at Casa da Geleia, the pousada
run by English speaking Brazilian birder Jose Carlos.
58. Glittering-throated Emerald - Amazilia fimbriata
Very common along the coast.
Chapada Diamantina - common at the feeders at Casa da Geleia, the pousada
run by English speaking Brazilian birder Jose Carlos.
59. Hooded Visorbearer
- Augastas lumachellus - NEAR-THREATENED
Chapada Diamantina - common on the plateau, halfway at the trail to the top
of Pao Inacio. The only endemic of Chapada Diamantina.
60. Surucua Trogon - Trogon surrucura
Boa Nova - 3 birds beautifully seen in the wet forest
61. Ringed Kingfisher - Ceryle orquata
Fairly common along the coast.
62. Amazon Kingfisher - Chloroceryle amazona
Small numbers.
63. Green Kingfisher - Chloroceryle americana
Small numbers.
64. Rufous-tailed Jacamar - Galbula ruficauda
Chapada Diamantina - fairly common in forest.
65. Spot-backed Puffbird - Nystalus maculatus
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - one bird.
Boa Nova - one bird at the dry forest.
66. Crescent-chested Puffbird - Malacoptila striata
Boa Nova - excellent views of one bird in the wet forest.
67. White-fronted Nunbird - Monasa morphoeus
Una EcoParque - one bird at the canopy walkway.
68. Spot-billed Toucanet - Selenidera maculirostris
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - 8 birds.
69. Channel-billed Toucan - Ramphastos vitellinus
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - two birds.
Boa Nova - one bird at the wet forest.
70. Ochraceous Piculet
- Picumnus limea - VULNERABLE
Boa Nova - two birds gave excellent views at close range in the wet forest
and are tentativelly identified as this species, although well out of range
and habitat. Description: red patch on forehead, black nape with white spots,
brown-green upperparts, buffish underparts unmarked (no stripes, spots, etc).
Unknown population or.??? If you know more, please contact me.
71. Spotted Piculet -
Picumnus pygmaeus
Boa Nova - small numbers in the wet forest.
72. Yellow-throated Woodpecker - Piculus flavigula
Boa Nova - common in wet forest. Local race in the NE has a RED throat!
73. Golden-green Woodpecker - Piculus chrysochloros
Chapada Diamantina - 3 birds at the trail near the B242, north of Lencois.
74. Plain-winged Woodcreeper - Dendrocincla turdina
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - one bird.
75. Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - Glyphorhynchus spirurus
Una EcoParque - one bird.
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
76. Buff-throated Woodcreeper - Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest
77. Narrow-billed Woodcreeper - Lepidocolaptes angustrirostris
Chapada Diamantina -one bird at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
78. Scaled Woodcreeper - Lepidocolaptes squamatus
Chapada Diamantina - one bird at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
Boa Nova - 2 birds in the wet forest.
79. Rufous Hornero - Furnarius rufus
Small numbers.
80. Pale-legged Hornero - Furnarius leucopus
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers.
Boa Nova - one bird in the dry forest.
81. Wing-banded Hornero - Furnarius figulus
Chapada Diamantina
- small numbers near marsh just north of Lencois.
82. Red-shouldered Spinetail
- Gyalophylax hellmayri - NEAR-THREATENED
Canudos - fairly common along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
83. Ochre-cheeked Spinetail - Poecilurus scutatus
Boa Nova - at least one bird in the wet forest.
84. Bahia Spinetail -
Synallaxis whitneyi - ENDANGERED
Chapada Diamantina - 1 bird at the trail near the B242, north of Lencois.
85. Pale-breasted Spinetail - Synallaxis albescens
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers near the marsh just north of Lencois.
86. Cinereous-breasted Spinetail - Synallaxis hypospodia
Boa Nova - fairly common in the wet forest.
87. Rufous-fronted Thornbird - Phacellodomus rufifrons
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers near the marsh just north of Lencois.
88. Striated Softtail - Thripophaga macroura - ENDANGERED
Boa Nova - at least 2 birds seen in the wet forest.
89. Caatinga Cacholote
- Pseudoseisura cristata
Common.
90. Pale-browed Treehunter - Cicholocolaptes leucophrus
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the wet forest.
91. White-eyed Foliage-Gleaner - Automolus leucophthalmus
Chapada Diamantina one bird at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
92. Plain Xenops - Xenops minutus
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the wet forest.
93. Great Antshrike - Taraba major
Canudos - one pair along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
Chapada Diamantina - one male near the marsh just north of Lencois.
94. Silvery-cheecked Antshrike - Sakesphorus cristatus
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the dry forest.
95. Caatinga (Barred)
Antshrike - Thamnophilus (doliatus) capistratus
Canudos - one male along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
96. Ferruginous Antbird - Drymophila ferruginea
Boa Nova - 2 birds in the wet forest.
97. Ochre-rumped Antbird - Drymophila ochropyga
- NEAR-THREATENED
Boa Nova - 4 birds in the wet forest.
98. Black-capped Antwren - Herpsilochmus atricapillus
Boa Nova - two birds in the wet forest.
99. Slender Antbird -
Rhopornis ardesiaca - ENDANGERED
Boa Nova - 3 birds heard at the famous spot in the dry forest.
100. Streak-capped Antwren - Terenura maculata
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
101. Rio de Janeiro Antbird - Cercomacra brasiliana
- NEAR-THREATENED
Boa Nova - 2 birds in the wet forest.
102. Crested Becard - Pachyramphus validus
Boa Nova - 1 bird in the wet forest.
103. Red-headed Manakin - Pipra rubrocapilla
Una EcoParque - one excellent bird.
104. Pin-tailed Manakin - Ilicura militaris
Boa Nova - wow! one male gave excellent views at close range in the wet forest.
105. Striped Manakin - Machaeropterus regulus
Una EcoParque - one excellent bird.
106. White-bearded Manakin - Manacus manacus
Una EcoParque - two birds seen.
107. Pale-bellied Manakin - Neopelma pallescens
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the wet forest.
108. White Monjita - Xolmis irupero
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos, Chapada Diamantina, Boa Nova - small numbers.
109. Black-backed or Pied Water-Tyrant Fluvicola
albiventer / pica
Porto Seguro Private Reserve - small numbers.
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers near the marsh just north of Lencois.
110. Masked Water-Tyrant - Fluvicola nengeta
Common.
111. White-headed Marsh-Tyrant - Arundinicola leucocephala
Frequent near marshes.
112. Velvety Black-Tyrant - Knipolegus nigerrimus
Chapada Diamantina - common near the plateau, halfway at the trail to the
top of Pao Inacio.
113. Yellow-browed Tyrant - Satrapa icterophrys
Chapada Diamantina - common near the marsh just north of Lencois.
114. Cattle Tyrant - Machetornis rixosus
Only one bird, on touristic island Ilha de Tinhare.
115. Tropical Kingbird - Tyrannus melancholicus
Common.
116. Variegated Flycatcher - Empidonomus varius
Chapada Diamantina - one bird near the marsh just north of Lencois.
117. Streaked Flycatcher - Myiodinastes maculatus
Boa Nova - 1 bird in the wet forest.
118. Boat-billed Flycatcher - Megarhynchus pitangua
Common.
119. Social Flycatcher - Myiozetetes similis
Common.
120. Piratic Flycatcher - Legatus leucophaius
Canudos - one bird along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
121. Great Kiskadee - Pitangus sulphuratus
Common.
122. Lesser Kiskadee - Philohydor lictor
Common.
123. Grey-hooded Attila - Attila rufus
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
124. Cinereous Mourner - Laniocera hypopyrrha
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the wet forest.
125. Euler's Flycatcher - Lathrotriccus euleri
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers.
126. Fuscous Flycatcher - Cnemotriccus fuscatus
Boa Nova - one bird in wet forest.
127. Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher - Myiobus barbatus
Boa Nova - 1 bird in the wet forest.
128. Black-tailed Flycatcher - Myiobus atricaudus
Chapada Diamantina - one bird at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
129. Brown-crested Flycatcher - Myiarchus tyrannulus
Una EcoParque - one bird.
130. Tropical Pewee - Contopus cinereus
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
131. Yellow-olive Flycatcher - Tolmomyias sulphurescens
Boa Nova - one bird at the dry forest.
132. Grey-headed Tody-Flycatcher - Todirostrum poliocephalum
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
133. Common Tody-Flycatcher - Todiostrum cinereum
Chapada Diamantina - common near the marsh just north of Lencois.
134. Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant - Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - one bird encountered.
135. Bahia Tyrannulet
- Phylloscartes beckeri - ENDANGERED
Boa Nova - 2 birds in the wet forest.
136. Pustalet's or Oustalet's Tyrannulet - Phylloscates
oustaleti - NEAR-THREATENED
Boa Nova - at least one bird in the wet forest.
137. Grey-backed Tachuri - Polystrictus superciliaris
Chapada Diamantina - 2 birds near the plateau, halfway at the trail to the
top of Pao Inacio.
138. Brazilian Wagtail-Tyrant
- Stigmatura bahiae (split from Lesser Wagtail-Tyrant)
Canudos - small numbers along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
139. Yellow-bellied Elaenia - Elaenia flavogaster
Chapada Diamantina - only one bird seen.
140. Plain-crested Elaenia - Elaenia cristata
Chapada Diamantina - two birds at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
141. Greenish Elaenia - Myiopagis viridicata
Chapada Diamantina - two birds at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
142. Grey Elaenia - Myiopagis caniceps
Boa Nova - small numbers in the wet forest.
143. Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet - Phaeomyias murina
Canudos - at least one bird along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
144. Grey-capped Tyrannulet - Phyllomyias griseocapilla
Chapada Diamantina - one bird at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
145. White-winged Swallow - Tachycineta albiventer
Small numbers.
146. Rough-winged Swallow - Stelgydopteryx ruficollis
Common.
147. White-naped Jay
- Cyanocorax cyanopogon
Canudos - fairly common along the dirtroad south of town.
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers.
148. Moustached Wren - Thryothorus genibarbis
Chapada Diamantina - 3 birds at the trail near the B242, north of Lencois.
149. House Wren - Troglodytes aedon
Small numbers.
150. Tropical Mockingbird - Mimus gilvus
Fairly common along the coast.
151. Chalk-browed Mockingbird - Mimus saturninus
Common.
152. Rufous-bellied Thrush - Turdus rufiventris
Common along the coast.
153. Pale-breasted Thrush - Turdus leucomelas
Porto Seguro Reserve, Una EcoParque - common.
154. Cocoa Thrush - Turdus fumigatus
Una EcoParque, forest near Praia do Forte - common.
155. Tropical Gnatcatcher - Polioptila plumbea
Canudos - fairly common along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
156. Grey-eyed Greenlet
- Hylophilus amaurocephalus
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers at the Great Xenops spot near Palmeiras.
157. Shiny Cowbird - Molothrus bonariensis
Canudos - fairly common along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
158. Pale Bay-winged
Cowbird - Molothrus fringillarius (split from Bay-winged Cowbird)
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
159. Chopi Blackbird - Gnorimopsar chopi
Small numbers inland.
160. Chestnut-capped Blackbird - Agelaius ruficapillus
Chapada Diamantina - common near the marsh just north of Lencois.
161. Unicolored Blackbird - Agelaius cyanopus
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers.
162. Troupial - Icterus icterus
Small numbers.
163. White-browed Blackbird - Leistus superciliaris
Common in right habitat.
164. Tropical Parula - Parula pitiayumi
Boa Nova - small numbers at the dry forest.
165. Flavescent Warbler - Basileuterus flaveolus
Boa Nova - common in the wet forest.
166. Golden-crowned Warbler - Basileuterus culicivorus
Boa Nova - common in the wet forest.
167. River Warbler - Basileuterus rivularis
Chapada Diamantina - one bird identified as this species, near the marsh just
north of Lencois.
168. Bananaquit - Coereba flaveola
Small numbers along the coast.
169. Chestnut-vented Conebill - Conirostrum specoisum
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers in the forest just south of Lencois.
170. Blue Dacnis - Dacnis cayana
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers in the forest just south of Lencois.
171. Fawn-breasted Tanager - Pipraeidea melanonota
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
172. Burnished-buff Tanager - Tangara cayana
Small numbers along the coast.
173. Purple-throated Euphonia - Euphonia chlorotica
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers in the forest just south of Lencois.
174. Sayaca Tanager - Thraupis sayaca
Common.
175. Palm Tanager - Thraupis palmarum
Common along the coast.
176. Brazilian Tanager - Ramphocelus bresilius
Small numbers along the coast.
177. Red-crowned Ant-Tanager - Habia rubica
Boa Nova - two noisy flocks of 20 birds each in the wet forest.
178. Black-googled Tanager - Thrichothraupis melanops
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
179. Hooded Tanager - Nemosia pileata
One bird at the forest near touristic site Praia do Forte.
180. Guira Tanager - Hemithraupis guira
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers in the forest just south of Lencois.
181. Orange-headed Tanager - Thlypopsis sordida
Chapada Diamantina - small numbers near the marsh just south of Lencois.
182. Black-throated Grosbeak - Pitylus fuliginosus
Boa Nova - one bird in the wet forest.
183. Greyish Saltator - Saltator coerulescens
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - one bird.
184. Black-throated Saltator - Saltator atricollis
Fairly common inland.
185. Ultramarine Grosbeak - Passerina brissonni
Canudos - one along the dirtroad south of Canudos.
186. Sooty Grassquit - Tiaris fuliginosa
Common in suitable habitat.
187. Red-cowled Cardinal
- Paroaria dominicana
Common in open areas.
188. Lineated Seedeater - Sporophila lineola
Chapada Diamantina - 4 birds at the reedbeds along the river, near the marsh
just south of Lencois.
189. Yellow-bellied Seedeater - Sporophila nigricollis
Fairly common.
190. White-throated
Seedeater - Sporophila albogularis
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - one bird.
191. Pileated Finch - Coryphospingus pileatus
Common in open areas.
192. Sao Francisco Sparrow
- Arremon franciscanus - NEAR-THREATENED
Chapada Diamantina - a excellent sighting of two birds at the Great Xenops
spot near Palmeiras.
193. Pectoral Sparrow - Arremon taciturnus
Boa Nova - 3 birds in the wet forest.
194. Saffron-billed Sparrow - Arremon flavirostris
Canudos - a pair near town.
195. Grassland Sparrow - Ammodramus humeralis
Dirtroad Jeremoabo-Canudos - small numbers.
196. Rufous-collared Sparrow - Zonotrichia capenis
Small numbers inland. Common at Chapada Diamantina.
197. Buff-throated Pampa-Finch
- Embernagra longicauda - NEAR-THREATENED
Chapada Diamantina - common at the plateau, halfway at the trail to the top
of Pao Inacio.
198. House Sparrow - Passer domesticus
Common near settlements.
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