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Bulgaria, 6th – 15th May 2011,

References:

A.        The Collins Pocket Guide, Birds of Britain & Europe, with N Africa and the Middle East by Hermann Heinzel, Richard Fitter & John Parslow.

INTRODUCTION

My wife and I travelled with a group from the Boletas Birdwatching Centre, Spain, Huesca with 10 other participants and 2 leaders.  The group consisted of:

Leaders:  Josele J Saiz & Simeon

The Group:  Mark & Deb Easterbrook, John & Val Sanders, John Packer, Andy Levitt, Jay & Jo Whetham, Gwyn McCreanor, Ron & Susan Martin (U.S.) and Alberto Galofre (U.S.)

With the administration and organisation taken care of, the wine was good, the beer cheap and the local foods interesting.  It must be said that the fish from the Black Sea was very good and few stomach upsets were encountered while the company and birding were outstanding.  The report consists of 15 pages with daily itineraries, a consolidated species list and summary.

DAY 1 – 6 May

With the group departing from various airports in the UK and arriving in Sofia at different times the tour did not finally get underway until about 1530 on the first day. While we were waiting for Josele to arrive from Madrid, some brief but productive birding at a small pool next to the airport, produced Little Bittern, at least 2 Great Reed Warblers, and a Nightingale.  Those who had arrived earlier had birded the mountains close to Sofia and were rewarded with Spotted Nutcracker and Firecrest amongst others – birds that were not recovered throughout the remainder of the tour. 

We headed east towards the historic town of Koprivshtitsa stopping along the way and birding from the bus.  One brief stop produced the first Isabelline Wheatears, a Tawny Pipit, various expected hirundines and a Whinchat, with a Yellowhammer being heard.  Our arrival at Koprivshtitsa was greeted by breeding Dippers with 3 young and a Grey Wagtail on a small river in front of the hotel.  Some good food and a glass of red concluded the day.

Day 2 – 7 May

After breakfast we added Willow Tit and Serin to the list before departing for the hills in the Beklemedo National Park.  The wind was chilly when we arrived but we soon added Water Pipits, Whinchats and a Black Redstart before viewing an adult Golden Eagle making rapid progress along the escarpment which was a highlight for many.  Cuckoos called constantly, flocks of Bee-eaters made steady progress north and a male Ring Ouzel of the alpestris race showed well, while a Hen Harrier quartered in the distance.

We departed the location for lunch and shortly after visited a beech forest below the restaurant.  A Redstart was heard and seen, along with a couple of Treecreepers.  However, Gwyn first heard and then eventually we all saw the star of the day – a male White-backed Woodpecker that drummed in front of us and put on a territorial display.

The drive back to the hotel brought a stop at Rozino, which produced several good raptors including Short-toed Eagle, Honey Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard and a distant Red-footed Falcon.  The supporting cast consisted of a Black-headed Yellow Wagtail, a showy Cuckoo and a Black Stork.

An obliging Cuckoo at Rozino

DAY 3 – 8 May

Departing and making progress towards Topolovgrad, our next destination, the transit day was punctuated by a number of stops at "birdy" locations that resulted in some good sightings.

Stopping firstly at Mariza/Svilengrad – an area of varying habitat next to the river was well worthwhile.  We were greeted by Rollers and Bee-eaters and departed to a Grey Partridge.  In between we had our picnic lunch and sighted a pair of Levant Sparrowhawks, our first Syrian Woodpecker, several Golden Orioles, one of a few Eastern Olivaceous Warblers and one of only 2 Kingfishers along with a cast of commoner migrants.

The next stop was a rocky valley in the area of Yerusalimovo.  This was a picturesque area that was predicted to hold several target species, and did not disappoint.  Woodchat Shrikes were evident, Cirl Buntings sang but never gave themselves up and the ubiquitous Corn Buntings were becoming monotonous.  That said, on the way to the bottom of the valley Mark found a male Black-eared Wheatear, a bird that is at the northern edge of its breeding range and which was missed on the previous tour and Simeon found the first Eastern Orphean Warbler.  At the bottom of the valley there were some pools.  A calling tit soon proved to be a cracking male Sombre Tit; the only one of the tour, whilst Honey Buzzards, a surprise Glossy Ibis and Short-toed Eagles were overhead.  Another short stop a little later provided views of a singing Ortolan Bunting.

Day 4 – 9 May

We made an earlier start from the hotel at Topolovgrad and heading for the Mramor plains in the Saker Hills region.  On our arrival we noted a Tree Pipit, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and several Isabelline Wheatears.  The stars of the show here were a pair of Eastern Imperial Eagles.  The male hunted, caught and fed whilst putting on an aerial display that was unforgettable and a great spectacle.  Supported by kettles of storks including one Black Stork, Lesser Spotted Eagles and a raft of commoner raptors, so that the morning was a great success.  A stop before lunch rewarded us with a Wood Warbler, Pied Flycatcher, Black Kite and a heard but not seen Eastern Bonelli's Warbler.

A Majestic male Eastern Imperial Eagle

After lunch we headed for oak woods near Shtit in search of the next target bird.  The woods were alive with Woodchat Shrikes, Eastern Orphean Warblers and Woodlarks, however our quarry was not evident.  Eventually, we tracked down a pair of Masked Shrikes and the male posed beautifully for the camera.  The woods also revealed several Golden Orioles, a single Ortolan Bunting and a Syrian Woodpecker.  It was becoming clear, that migration was a bit late due to the poor weather before the tour commenced and as a result the stronghold of the Olive-tree Warbler (one of our key target species) was worryingly quiet. – more of this later!

DAY 5 – 10 May

Our departure from Topolovgrad was fairly uneventful but before leaving the town, we stopped for a colony of Pallid Swifts.  Andy was on fire and spotted a Little Owl on top of a chimney that was very grey compared with ours in Britain.  Soon after Andy found a nice pair of Red-footed Falcons sitting on a telegraph wire that were scoped and enjoyed by all.  Heading further east, we paused briefly by the road for a pair of Lesser Spotted Eagles before proceeding to another woodland stop a little further on.  The woods here produced several Hawfinches, at least 2 Eastern Bonelli's Warblers, several Ortolan Buntings, a couple of Nuthatches and a Black Kite.  With lunch approaching we proceeded on our easterly course.

A stop for lunch at Srededs produced a pair of Semi-collared Flycatchers at the nest along with a breeding pair of Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, likewise at the nest hole.  A Raven was noted whilst a 3 White Pelicans above us were the shape of things to come.

After lunch we were close to Bourgas and stopped at Vaya Lake.  Here the first 4 Dalmatian Pelicans were noted with Squacco Herons and hundreds of marsh terns, with all three species being represented.  Around the eastern side of the lake at least 40 Pygmy Cormorants were breeding, accompanied by 2 Glossy Ibises, a suite of various herons and once again numerous marsh terns.

Before moving to the hotel we stopped at the Atamasovsko Lake and Reserve.  Next to the garage on the roundabout a pair of Little Bitterns revealed themselves whilst a Sedge Warbler and Penduline Tit became evident.  A Moorhen feeding young was the first of the trip, before we finally entered the reserve.

The reserve here was very good for water birds with a Ruddy Shelduck, several Garganey and waders including, Spotted Redshank, Wood, Common and Curlew Sandpipers with the only Turnstone and Dunlin of the trip being noted.  A pair of Gull-billed Terns passed overhead whilst John remarkably spotted a pair of distant Kentish Plovers.  Cetti's Warblers were seen by a lucky few whilst Reed Warblers were easier.  On our departure a very showy Nightingale sang and grabbed the attention of many.

Nightingale performing for the crowds

A very tasty fish dinner and some excellent Bulgarian red, washed down with a couple of beers, resulted in a headache the next day.

DAY 6 – 11 May

Today was billed as the Woodpecker day and although this aspect proved to be a little disappointing, some good sightings were made.  The hills and wooded reserve at Strandja Mountain was the destination (the oldest reserve in Bulgaria).  Woodpeckers were conspicuous by their absence with only Great Spotted, Syrian and a very brief Lesser Spotted being seen while Blacks were only heard distantly.  The woods did allow for a photo opportunity of a male Semi-collared Flycatcher that sat still long enough.  We took a picnic lunch in a wet valley in the reserve where Mark spotted the first Lesser Grey Shrike while at least 3 Corncrakes called.  These last birds played their usual hard to get routine and the result was another heard only record for the trip.  A Goshawk was noted by a few prior to our departure.

A stationary male Semi-collared Flycatcher

Whilst returning to the hotel we stopped at Mandra Lake and although a few Great Reed Warblers sang and the lakes were full of marsh terns, the area looked fairly unremarkable.  However, that's why you have a guide.  With previous local knowledge a pair of White-tailed Eagles performed well and allowed everyone to gain excellent views of this majestic bird.

A further stop at Podo Visitor Centre run by the Bulgarian Society for the Protection of Birds allowed viewing of several Black-necked Grebes, 2 brief Spoonbills and once again hundreds of marsh terns with a few Common and Sandwich Terns present for good measure.

After dinner the hunt was on for a Eurasian Scops Owl that had been heard singing close to the hotel the night before.  With minimum effort, the bird was located, sitting in the open on a telegraph wire, not 50 metres from the hotel.  It soon retired to a nearby tree but most agreed that it was the easiest Scops Owl they'd ever seen.

DAY 7 – 12 May

We left the hotel and paused at Vaya Lake once more to gain better views of Dalmatian Pelicans and were also rewarded with views of Little Gulls, Night Herons and a Little Bittern.

Continuing our journey to the north-east we headed for Krapets and a lovely hotel on the Black Sea.  Stopping on route throughout the day allowed for some rewarding birding experiences.  We stopped near Pomorie Lake and some salt pans, which soon produced some new birds for the trip.  4 Mediterranean Gulls along with Slender-billed and Black-headed were noted, whilst behind us Kentish Plovers and Little Terns posed for the camera.  A collection of waders included Avocets, Little Stints and Curlew Sandpipers accompanied a single Pygmy Cormorant.

We moved on stopping at another area further along Pomorie Lake.  It was agreed that nobody had ever seen so many marsh terns feeding along with Little Gulls, a couple of Little Grebes, and good numbers of herons.  A group of Ruffs fed and a Greenshank was flushed whilst a Willow Warbler caused momentary confusion before it sang.

Kentish Plover

The day continued with a stop at Camchia Riverine Forest and although there remained no Olive-tree Warblers to be heard or seen it did produce the first female Red-backed Shrike, a few Semi-collared Flycatchers and a couple of Hawfinches.

The final stop of the day was in Baltata and although the lap dancing bar and and ice cream looked inviting it was on with the birding in a nearby wood.  As it turned out, the wood was a very good stop.  It produced 3 Little Bitterns, a female Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, along with Great and Middle Spotted and the only Long-tailed Tits of the trip.

We arrived at Krapets on the Black Sea, allowing time for a little sea watching.  The only Oystercatcher of the trip was seen and hundreds of Cormorants flew to roost but little else.

DAY 8 – 13 May

The early morning crew scored outside the hotel in an area of scrub and trees with evidence of visible mass migration, a trend that continued for the next 3 days.  At least 2 Collared Flycatchers, a female Red-breasted and Pied were noted, accompanied by Barred Warblers, numerous Golden Orioles, Turtle Doves and Rollers.  A stunning male Pied Wheatear added to the experience.

Today was the day for one of the main target birds of the trip at Duramkulak Lake.  The lakes are about 3km from the Romanian border and were very close to the hotel, allowing for maximum birding time.  Our arrival was greeted by several singing Great Reed Warblers and shortly after, there in the scope was the prize – a cracking singing Paddyfield Warbler.  At least 5 of these striking little birds were eventually seen.  The next 2 hours at the site revealed yet more visible migration in the form of a male Montagu's Harrier, Ruddy Shelduck, Collared Pratincole, Hobby, Sparrowhawks, Marsh Harriers, Red-footed Falcons, and a single Baltic Gull all heading north.  Meanwhile, in the reed beds there were at least 3 reeling Savi's Warblers, a couple of Citrine Wagtails and a pair of Reed Buntings, all of which our U.S. contingent appreciated.

Great Reed Warbler

After lunch we visited Shabla Lake adding many new species for the trip.  A Little Ringed Plover was obvious, as was a Little Bittern, with a pair of Garden Warblers being a bit more difficult.  As we worked our way around the lake we recorded all the herons with the exception of a Bittern and several surprise wildfowl including, Widgeon, single male Pintail and Tufted Duck and a couple of Teal, together with Ferruginous Ducks which were more expected.  Later at the coast at Shablenska Tuzla several Sanderling and a superb Black-throated Diver in full breeding regalia was noted.  Of interest was a record of a Cattle Egret, which is apparently not that common in Bulgaria that surprised our local guide Simeon. 

A little sea watching produced the usual fair but a flock of 38 feeding Yelkouan Shearwaters was a good record.

DAY 9 – 14 May

Things were now getting desperate with absolutely no sign of an Olive-tree Warbler.  Undeterred, we continued with our morning round outside the hotel and were pleased to see that Sylvia warblers were very much in evidence including, more Barred Warblers, Lesser Whitethroats, Whitethroats, Blackcaps and a Garden Warbler.  Red-breasted, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers flitted about with Rollers, Turtle Doves, Bee-eaters and Night Herons passing above.  The surprise find of the morning was a male Siskin that was new for the trip.  Simeon recorded a Caspian Tern offshore heading north and a number of Black-throated Divers.

We proceeded to the Sveti-Nikola Steppe area near to Cape Kaliakra Reserve.  The plains produced a number of interesting species with Calandra Larks being the most numerous.  Greater Short-toed Larks were in shorter supply and although 6 Red-throated Pipit were a surprise the numerous Tawny Pipits weren't.  Eventually 3 Stone Curlews were recorded in the day and a Quail was heard.

We continued towards the cape stopping on a road with trees, scrub and bushes bordering it.  This area provided excellent cover and feeding opportunities for tired migrants and as a result an excellent birding opportunity for us.  In a small stretch of road, Redstarts, a male Red-backed Shrike, Thrush Nightingale, Wryneck, Pied Wheatears, male Collared Flycatcher and numerous Red-breasted Flycatchers were noted.  Then came the news, a singing Olive-tree Warbler had been located by Josele.  The group quickly convened and the search began.  The bird was incredibly skulking but audible and remained unseen.  A singing Icterine Warbler was more obliging.  By lunch the bird had still not been viewed satisfactorily.

After lunch we proceeded to the Cape noting at least 3 pairs of Pied Wheatears, many migrating flycatchers, a number of Alpine Swifts and the remarkable site of several hundred Yelkouan Shearwaters feeding above a pod of Harbour Porpoises.  At least 15 Shags of the Black Sea and Mediterranean form desmaresti sat on the rocks nearby.

We moved on to an Eagle Owl roost that proved unproductive but which did provide views of Savi's Warblers, Purple Herons and Red-rumped Swallows and an opportunity to return to the Olive-tree Warbler site for one last ditch attempt.

As the vehicle slowed the bird could once again be heard singing continuously from deep vegetation at the side of the road.  The group piled out and stood silently listening.  Eventually there was a little movement and with steerage the group found itself looking at a singing Olive-tree Warbler hidden and sitting completely still in deep bracken.  Satisfactory views were eventually gained by all, of this remarkably big yet difficult to see warbler – the end of a great day and good tour!

DAY 10 – 15 May

Despite much merriment and involvement in a local party by some members of the team (Jay's dancing was very memorable so I am informed), another early morning check outside the hotel produced further evidence of migration with Barred Warblers, Turtle Doves, Hoopoes and Rollers all being represented.  Simeon and Josele spotted another 2 Caspian Terns and John found 2 Grey Plovers.  Before our departure a single Greenshank on the rocks made for a lonely sight.  Prior to our flights home via Bourgas, Varna and eventually Budapest we had time for a little birding.  The only new bird added was a Redshank on some marshes near Varna and a solitary Spoonbill was also noteworthy.

Systematic Species List

SUMMARY

This was a great week, excellent birding, good company and finally lovely weather.  A total of 218 species seen and heard by the group was a good count with more being possible if some easy birds had been picked up.  The bird of the trip was voted as the Eastern Imperial Eagle, hunting, catching and feeding as we watched for an hour.  Bulgaria is well worth a visit and could be done on a budget if necessary.  The infrastructure is good and getting around relatively easy with the use of a map.  Sites and locations are well signposted and navigation is fairly straightforward.  Many thanks are due to all those who participated and for ensuring the week was productive and very enjoyable.

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