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|A Report from birdtours.co.uk|
Chile 9 - 24 Nov 2002,
Please note - where I have not accurately counted the number of a particular species seen, I have preceded the location with 'n'. Numbers of each species seen are understated in many cases, especially regarding the commoner species - I'm not always as diligent as I should be in keeping numbers of species seen.
The letter 'h' denotes that the bird was heard but not seen.
1. Lesser Rhea (Rhea pennata) Several in the Seno Otway area 14.11, seen less commonly elsewhere throughout the Magallanes area e.g. the Pali Aike Road 15.11.
2. Ornate Tinamou (Nothoprocta ornata) One seen c. 09:00 along the roadside just south of Las Cuevas on both 20.11 and 21.11. Morning and evening are apparently best.
3. Chilean Tinamou (Nothoprocta perdicaria) 2 flushed from close range at Los Cipreses 12.11. Michel, Clive & Eleanor also had a group of 5 at Farellones on 9.11
4. Puna Tinamou (Tinamotis pentlandii) Usually quite common between Las Cuevas and Chucuyo, but apparently much less frequent this year. We eventually had excellent views of one bird in front of the police post at Chilcaya, Surire 21.11. This was in itself unusual, according to Gonzalo, as they are usually seen in groups.
5. California Quail (Callipepla californica) n Chillán valley 12.11, Los Cipreses 12.11, Farellones 23.11, and a few others west of Santiago de Chile
6. Pied-billed Grebe (Podilymbus podiceps) n Leyda 13.11
7. White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland) 1 near Río Rubens 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
8. Silvery Grebe (Podiceps occipitalis) 2 very distant at Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, 3 Parinacota 19.11, 1 Parinacota 20.11
9. Great Grebe (Podiceps major) n Leyda 13.11, 1 San Antonio 13.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
10. Black-browed Albatross (Diomedea melanophris) n between Punta Arenas & Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11 An amazing experience, to stand on the shoreline watching albatrosses fly past so near you could see them with a naked eye!
11. Southern Giant Petrel (Macronectes giganteus) c. 15 Punta Arenas 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
12. Southern Fulmar (Fulmarus glacioides) n Punta Arenas 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
13. White-chinned Petrel (Procellaria aequinoctialis) 2 ferry from Punta Arenas - Porvenir 17.11
14. Pintado Petrel (Daption capense) 1 ferry from Punta Arenas - Porvenir 17.11
15. Magellanic Diving-Petrel (Pelecanoides magellani) n. between Punta Arenas & Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
16. Humboldt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldti) 1 Algarrobo 13.11
17. Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus) 6 Seno Otway 14.11, n Primera Angostura 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
18. Peruvian Booby (Sula variegata) 1 Playa Corazones 22.11
19. Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus) n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, n San Antonio 13.11, 1 Algarrobo 13.11, 1 Playa Corazones 22.11, 1 Arica port 22.11
20. Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) n Leyda 13.11, n Cotacotani 19.11, n Chungará 20.11, n Arica 21.11 - 22.11, n Playa Corazones 22.11
21. Magellan Cormorant (Rock Shag) (Phalacrocorax magellanicus) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura 14.11
22. Guanay Cormorant (Phalacrocorax bougainvillii) n San Antonio 13.11, n Algarrobo 13.11
23. Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi) n San Antonio 13.11, c. 6 Playa Corazones 22.11
24. Blue-eyed (Imperial) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax atriceps atriceps) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
25. King (Imperial) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax albiventer) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
26. Little Blue Heron (Egretta caerulea) 1 Arica 21.11, 1 Lluta River mouth 22.11
27. American (Great, Great White) Egret (Casmerodius albus) several between Santiago de Chile & Angol 10.11, n Leyda 13.11
28. Snowy Egret (Egretta thula) several between Santiago de Chile & Angol 10.11, n Leyda 13.11
29. Cocoi Heron (Ardea cocoi) 1 Leyda 13.11
30. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis) n between Chillán & Rancagua 12.11
31. Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax) 1 Cotacotani 19.11, 2 Chungará 20.11, 1 Arica 21.11, 1 Arica 22.11, 1 Playa Corazones 22.11. The birds seen on the coast and one of the Chungará birds were of the very dark and distinctive obscurus race - a possible future split?
32. Puna Ibis (Plegadis ridgwayi) small groups seen at Chucuyo, Parinacota & Cotacotani 19.11 - 20.11
33. Black-faced Ibis (Theristicus melanopis) 1 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n near Río Rubens 15.11, n Puerto Natales 15.11, n near Torres del Paine 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
34. Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) 6 at km 80 on Ruta 9 towards Puerto Natales 15.11, c. 10 10km south of Porvenir 17.11, n Surire 21.11, in front of the Chilcaya police post and along the northern shore
35. Andean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus andinus) c. 15 Surire 21.11 - in the SW corner. For some reason they apparently usually prefer this part of the lake, whereas the Chileans and James's prefer the northern shore.
36. Puna (James') Flamingo (Phoenicopterus jamesi) good numbers at Surire 21.11, along the northern shore. Both James's and Andean Flamingos are sometimes seen at Parinacota or Chungará, but are apparently not reliable there - none were seen there during our visit. They are however almost always present at Surire.
37. Coscoroba Swan (Coscoroba coscoroba) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n at k80 Ruta 9 15.11, n 10 km south of Porvenir 17.11
38. Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melanocorypha) n Leyda 13.11, n El Peral 13.11, c. 5 Puerto Natales 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
39. Andean Goose (Chloephaga melanoptera) Common in ones and twos throughout Lauca area 19.11 - 21.11
40. Ashy-headed Goose (Chloephaga poliocephala) Small groups between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11
41. Ruddy-headed Goose (Chloephaga rubidiceps) Small groups between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, sometimes in association with Ashy-headed and Magellan Geese.
42. Magellan (Upland) Goose (Chloephaga picta) Common throughout Magallanes area 14.11 - 17.11
43. Kelp Goose (Chloephaga hybrida) A few between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, 4 Puerto de Hambre 14.11
44. Crested Duck (Anas specularioides) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n Puerto Natales 15.11, n Los Baguales 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11, n 10 km south of Porvenir 17.11, common throughout Lauca area 19.11 - 21.11. To our eyes the northern birds were less well-marked than those in the south, especially around the head.
45. Flightless Steamer Duck (Tachyeres pteneres) 2 Seno Otway 14.11, at the penguin hide.
46. Flying Steamer Duck (Tachyeres patachonicus) 2 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11, 2 Laguna de los Cisnes 17.11, 2 10km south of Porvenir 17.11
47. Spectacled (Bronze-winged) Duck (Anas specularis) 3 Torres del Paine 16.11
48. Chilean (Speckled) Teal (Anas flavirostris) 2 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n near Río Rubens 15.11, n Los Baguales 15.11. I didn't note down any at Torres del Paine 16.11, but find it difficult to believe that I didn't see any here - must have been an oversight.
49. Andean (Sharp-winged) Teal (Anas (flavirostris) oxyptera) Common throughout Lauca area. Distinctively different from the Speckled Teals seen in the south, with their all dark heads.
50. Chiloe Wigeon (Anas sibilatrix) n Leyda 13.11, n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n near Río Rubens 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
51. Chilean (Yellow-billed) Pintail (Anas georgica) n Leyda 13.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
52. Puna Teal (Anas puna) 3 Cotacotani 19.11, 6 Chungará 20.1
53. Silver (Versicolor) Teal (Anas versicolor) 3 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11
54. Cinnamon Teal (Anas cyanoptera) 2 Leyda 13.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
55. Red (Argentine) Shoveler (Anas platalea) 3 Leyda, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11
56. Torrent Duck (Merganetta armata) Great prolonged views of a pair plus 4 downy young on a river near Laguna Amarga in Torres del Paine NP. One of the highlights of the trip. The birds were of the Chilean race armata.
57. Rosy-billed Pochard (Netta peposaca) 1 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11
58. Andean (Peruvian Ruddy) Duck (Oxyura ferruginea) A few Torres del Paine 16.11, 1 Parinacota 19.11
59. Lake Duck (Oxyura vittata) 2 Leyda 13.11, 1 Torres del Paine 16.11, a male right next to a male Andean Duck - perfect comparison opportunity!
60. Black-headed Duck (Heteronetta atricapilla) 3 Leyda (13.11)
61. Black Vulture (Coragyps atratus) common
62. Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura) common
63. Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus) 1 Seno Otway 14.11, 2 Los Baguales 15.11, 1 Torres del Paine 16.11. Clive & Eleanor also saw 5 at Farellones 9.11
64. White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus) 1 Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11
65. Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus) 1 near Primera Angostura 14.11, 1 between Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales 16.11, 1 Laguna de Los Cisnes 17.11
66. Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus) 1 Seno Otway 14.11, 1 Puerto Natales 15.11
67. Red-backed Hawk (Buteo polyosoma) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 Farellones 23.11
68. Puna (Variable) Hawk (Buteo poecilochrous) 1 melanistic phase Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Parinacota 20.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 20.11
69. Mountain Caracara (Phalcoboenus megalopterus) 1 Cotacotani 19.11
70. Southern Caracara (Polyborus plancus) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 between Punta Arenas & Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, 1 Seno Otway 14.11, 1 between Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales 16.11
71. Chimango Caracara (Milvago chimango) abundant roadside bird from Santiago de Chile southwards.
72. American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) seen occasionally throughout trip
73. Aplomado Falcon (Falco femoralis) 1 Ancuta 21.11
74. Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus) 2 Lluta Valley 18.11, 2 Lluta Valley 21.11
75. Plumbeous Rail (Pardirallus sanguinolentus) at least 1 seen, possibly 2 and others calling from damp roadside grass near Rocas de Santo Domingo
76. Common Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus) a few San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
77. Spot-flanked Gallinule (Gallinula melanops) 1 Leyda 13.11
78. Red-gartered Coot (Fulica armillata) n Leyda 13.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
79. White-winged Coot (Fulica leucoptera) n Leyda 13.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, 1 Los Baguales 15.11
80. Red-fronted Coot (Fulica rufifrons) 1 El Peral 13.11
81. Giant Coot (Fulica gigantea) Abundant at Lauca - every body of water seemed to have a few birds
82. Peruvian Thick-knee (Burhinus superciliaris) 2 Lluta Valley 18.11
83. Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis) very common roadside bird throughout area from Santiago de Chile southwards, with several even seen from the plane on arrival.
84. Andean Lapwing (Vanellus resplendens) 1 Cotacotani 19.11, 2 Parinacota 20.11, 2 Chucuyo 20.11
85. Pacific Golden-Plover (Pluvialis fulva) 1 Lluta River mouth 22.11 was probably this species
86. Two-banded Plover (Charadrius falklandicus) 1 Seno Otway 14.11, 2 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, 2 Pali Aike road 15.11, 2 Laguna de Los Cisnes 17.11
87. Puna Plover (Charadrius alticola) 1 at SW corner of Salar de Surire 21.11
88. Semipalmated Plover (Charadrius semipalmatus) 5 Lluta River mouth 22.11
89. Killdeer (Charadrius vociferous) 1 Lluta River mouth 22.11
90. Rufous-chested Plover (Charadrius modestus) 1 in flight Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, 1 Pali Aike road 15.11
91. Diademed Sandpiper-Plover (Mitchell's Plover) (Phegornis mitchellii) up to 2 adults + 2 immatures seen daily from 19.11 - 21.11 in the small roadside marsh by the km 146 marker on the right hand side just before the Las Cuevas ranger station, on the road between Putre and Parinacota. This is the same place where Chris Goodie saw this bird in 2001. THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO WALK INTO THIS AREA - the birds were frequenting an area of the marsh very near the road, and could be watched at a range of perhaps 30 metres without leaving the roadside. Do not disturb them and they will hopefully stay to breed here for many years to come. There were many areas of suitable looking habitat throughout the area, e.g. along the road to Surire, but too few birders to check them all out. However, as Chris says in his report, they do not seem to be in the area near the Parinacota police station at Parinacota at this time - we certainly never met anyone who had found them there, although some people had tried. Definitely the bird of the trip in my opinion.
92. Tawny-throated Dotterel (Oreopholus ruficollis) 1 Primera Angostura area 14.11, 1 in flight Surire 21.11
93. Magellanic Plover (Pluvianellus socialis) 2 Laguna de Los Cisnes 17.11 Fantastic birds, rivalling Diademed Sandpiper-Plover as the bird of the trip for me. Excellent prolonged views at a range of no more than c. 20 metres.
94. American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus) n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, 4 Lluta River mouth 22.11
95. Magellanic Oystercatcher (Haematopus leucopodus) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
96. Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater) 4 Puerto de Hambre 14.11, 3 Arica 21.11, 2 Arica 22.11, 1 Playa Corazones 22.11
97. White-backed (Black-tailed) Stilt (Himantopus melanurus) n Leyda 13.11. Sibley & Monroe have split this from Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus)
98. Andean Avocet (Recurvirostra andina) 2 Cotacotani 19.11 - 20.11, 4 Surire 21.11
99. Hudsonian Whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus) n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, 1 Seno Otway 14.11, n Arica 21.11 - 22.11, 1 Playa Corazones 22.11
100. Willet (Catoptrophorus semipalmatus) n Arica 21.11 - 22.11
101. Hudsonian Godwit (Limosa haemastica) c. 40 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11. I was delighted to finally catch up with this bird, having dipped many times on previous trips to North America.
102. Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres) n Arica 21.11 - 22.11
103. Surfbird (Aphriza virgata) c. 20 Arica 21.11 - 22.11
104. Stilt Sandpiper (Micropalama himantopus) 1 Lluta River mouth 22.11
105. Baird's Sandpiper (Calidris bairdii) c. 10 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, c. 4 Laguna de Los Cisnes 17.11
106. Least Sandpiper (Calidris minutilla) 1 Lluta River mouth 22.11
107. Grey-breasted Seedsnipe (Thinocorus orbignyianus) 1 Los Baguales 15.11, 1 Chucuyo 19.11, 2 Parinacota 19.11, 1 Las Cuevas 20.11, 1 Surire 21.11
108. Least Seedsnipe (Thinocorus rumicivorus) 1 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, 2 Pali Aike road 15.11
109. Chilean Skua (Catharacta chilensis) 1 Puerto de Hambre 14.11, n Primera Angostura harrying South American Terns 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
110. Black Skimmer (Rynchops niger) large flock on beach at Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11
111. Dolphin (Magellan) Gull (Larus scoresbii) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11
112. Band-tailed Gull (Larus belcheri) 1 Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, 1 Arica 21.11, 1 Arica 22.11, 1 Playa Corazones 22.11
113. Andean Gull (Larus serranus) seen throughout whole Lauca area 19.11 - 21.11
114. Franklin's Gull (Larus pipixcan) n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, n Arica 21.11 - 22.11
115. Brown-hooded Gull (Larus maculipennis) n Leyda 13.11, n San Antonio 13.11, n Laguna El Peral 13.11, n Punta Arenas 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
116. Kelp (Southern Black-backed) Gull (Larus dominicanus) 1 between Chillán and Rancagua 12.11, n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, n Algarrobo 13.11, 1 Punta Arenas 14.11, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11
117. Grey Gull (Larus modestus) n Arica 21.11 - 22.11, on the rocky seafront right in front of the Hotel Panamericana
118. South American Tern (Sterna hirundinacea) n between Punta Arenas - Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura 14.11, following feeding flock of penguins, n Punta Arenas - Porvenir ferry crossing 17.11, 1 Arica 21.11
119. Arctic Tern (Sterna paradisaea) 1 San Antonio 13.11
120. Trudeau's (Snowy-crowned) Tern (Sterna trudeaui) 1 Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11
121. Elegant Tern (Sterna elegans) n Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, n Arica 21.11 - 22.11
122. Inca Tern (Larosterna inca) 3 San Antonio 13.11, large numbers at extremely close range (2 metres) Arica port 22.11
123. Chilean Pigeon (Columba araucana) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11
124. Feral Pigeon (Colimba livia) towns & villages
125. Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata) n between Santiago de Chile and Angol 10.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11, n Farellones 23.11
126. Pacific Dove (Zenaida meloda) 1 Lluta valley 18.11, n Arica 21.11, n Arica 22.11, n San Miguel de Azapa 22.11. Recently split from White-winged Dove (Zenaida asiatica)
127. Picui Ground-Dove (Columbina picui) n between Santiago de Chile and Angol 10.11
128. Croaking Ground-Dove (Columbina cruziana) n San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
129. Bare-faced Ground-Dove (Metriopelia ceciliae) n Putre dry gorge 19.11
130. Black-winged Ground-Dove (Metriopelia melanoptera) 2 Putre dry gorge 19.11
131. Burrowing Parakeet (Parrot) (Cyanoliseus patagonus) flock of 8 Los Cipreses 12.11
132. Austral Parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus) n Nahuelbuta 10.11 (including 1 bird perched), 1 Río Rubens (16.11)
133. Magellanic Horned Owl (Bubo magellanicus) 1 at a roadside roost c. 15 km south of Porvenir 17.11
134. Rufous-legged Owl (Strix rufipes) 1 Chillán valley 12.11. The bird was roosting on a roadside stone in broad daylight, and allowed ridiculously close approach without flying away. Gonzalo told us that while they are very difficult to see, when they are found they often show this lack of fear of humans. Another of the birds of the trip - Michel has been guiding in Chile for nearly 20 years and it is only the second one he has seen, and the first in daylight.
135. Austral Pygmy-Owl (Glaucidium nanum) 1 found in the Chillán valley 12.11, being mobbed by a flock of passerines.
136. Burrowing Owl (Speotyto cunicularia) 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11, 2 Lluta River mouth 22.11
137. Andean Swift (Aeronautes andecolus) n Lluta valley 18.11 The birds were of the race parvulus
138. Sparkling Violet-ear (Colibri coruscans) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11
139. Andean Hillstar (Oreotrochilus estella) 1 Hostería Las Vicunas, Putre 19.11, 2 Putre wet gorge 20.11, 1 Hostería Las Vicunas, Putre 21.11. The birds were of the estella subspecies, known as Stripe-bellied Hillstar.
140. Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas) n Putre dry gorge 19.11
141. Green-backed Firecrown (Sephanoides sephaniodes) 1 near Angol, on the road towards Nahuelbuta 10.11
142. Oasis Hummingbird (Rhodopis vesper) 2 (1 male, 1 female) San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
143. Peruvian Sheartail (Thaumastura cora) 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
144. Chilean Flicker (Colaptes pitius) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 Laguna Verde 15.11, 1 Torres del Paine 16.11
145. Andean Flicker (Colaptes rupicola) Large, famous and long-established colony in the roadside embankment near Chucuyo - birds seen here 19.11 - 20.11. Other birds seen nearby at Parinacota 19.11 and Cotacotani 20.11
146. Greyish Miner (Geositta maritima) a total of 3 flushed from the roadside on the ascent up the Lluta Valley towards Putre on 18.11. 1 showed reasonably well as we drove by after landing at the side of the road.
147. Rufous-banded Miner (Geositta rufipennis) 1 Farellones 23.11
148. Puna Miner (Geositta punensis) common on the plan between Las Cuevas and Parinacota 19.11 - 20.11, and on the way to Surire 21.11
149. Common Miner (Geositta cunicularia) n Seno Otway 14.11, 1 Pali Aike road 15.11 I am sure there were others seen in the south.
150. Short-billed Miner (Geositta antarctica) 1 Seno Otway 14.11 (at the penguin hide), 2 Laguna de Los Cisnes 17.11. They are apparently commoner on Tierra del Fuego than on the mainland.
151. Scale-throated Earthcreeper (Upucerthia dumetaria) 1 Primera Angostura area 14.11
152. White-throated Earthcreeper (Upucerthia albigula) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11. The best identification feature is the extensive rufous in the wings, seen easily when the bird flies.
153. Plain-breasted Earthcreeper (Upucerthia jelskii) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 19.11, 1 Cotacotani 19.11, 1 Hostería Las Vicuñas, Putre 21.11
154. Band-tailed Earthcreeper (Eremobius phoenicurus) 1 Primera Angostura area 14.11. Until recently this was considered to be an Argentinean endemic, but it has recently been discovered breeding just over the Chilean border in the Primera Angostura area.
155. Dark-bellied Cinclodes (Cinclodes patagonicus) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 Los Baguales 15.11, 1 15 km south of Porvenir 17.11
156. Bar-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus) several across the Magallanes area, 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, common throughout Lauca area, 2 Farellones 23.11
157. White-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes atacamensis) 3 Parinacota 20.11
158. Chilean Seaside Cinclodes (Cinclodes nigrofumosus) 1 Playa Corazones 22.11. Big relief having dipped in central Chile. They are apparently quite uncommon and difficult to find this far north, which is the extreme northern edge of their range. However, Chris Goodie also saw one here in 2001, so this may be a reasonably reliable place at present.
159. Des Murs' Wiretail (Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11
160. Thorn-tailed Rayadito (Aphrastura spinicauda) 1 near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta 10.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11, n Chillán Valley 12.11
161. Streaked Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura striata) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 20.11
162. Plain-mantled Tit-Spinetail (Leptasthenura aegithaloides) 1 Torres del Paine 16.11, 1 Chucuyo 19.11
163. Lesser Canastero (Asthenes pyrrholeuca) 1 Torres del Paine 16.11
164. Dark-winged Canastero (Asthenes arequipae) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 19.11. Recently split from Creamy-breasted Canastero (Asthenes dorbignyi)
165. Cordilleran Canastero (Asthenes modesta) very common throughout Putre & Lauca area 19.11 - 21.11
166. Austral Canastero (Asthenes anthoides) 1 Torres del Paine 16.11
167. Canyon Canastero (Asthenes pudibunda) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11. Not included in the de la Peña & Rumboll guide, but has recently been found regularly in the dry gorge at Putre. Easily identified by rich rufous tones on tail, rump and most of wings
168. White-throated Treerunner (Pygarrhichas albogularis) 2 Nahuelbuta 11.11. Others heard
169. (Black-throated) Huet-huet (Pteroptochos tarnii) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11
170. Moustached Turca (Pteroptochos megapodius) 4 Farellones 23.11
171. Chucao Tapaculo (Scelorchilus rubecula) 1 near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta on 10.11 & 11.11, 2 Nahuelbuta 11.11 & others heard. This bird seemed to react to the tape playback of just about any Tapaculo, not just it's own calls, and was by far the easiest of these to see, with the exception of the Turca.
172. Ochre-flanked Tapaculo (Eugralla paradoxa) 1 heard near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta on 11.11 - despite calling from just inside a small bush, it couldn't be seen despite trying for nearly half an hour. 1 heard and seen briefly but well by Eleanor and badly by Clive and myself Nahuelbuta 11.11
173. Magellanic Tapaculo (Scytalopus magellanicus) very bad views of a calling bird Nahuelbuta 11.11 We didn't feel too bad about the poor views as it is in any case almost identical to Dusky Tapaculo, and its most distinctive feature is its voice, which we heard very well.
174. Dusky Tapaculo (Scytalopus fuscus) 1 taped into view near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta on 10.11 & 11.11 - brief but excellent views.
175. Chilean (White-crested) Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps) 1 Angol 11.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11
176. Peruvian Elaenia (Elaenia modesta) 1 Lluta Valley 18.11, 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11 Recent split from Chilean Elaenia
177. Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes flavirostris) 1 Putre wet gorge 20.11
178. Tufted Tit-Tyrant (Anairetes parulus) 2 seen very poorly at Nahuelbuta 11.11
179. Many-colored Rush-Tyrant (Tachuris rubrigastra) 2 Laguna El Peral 13.11. Absolute crackers!
180. Vermilion Flycatcher (Pyrocephalus rubinus) 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11, 4+ Lluta Valley 22.11
181. Patagonian Tyrant (Ochthoeca parvirostris) 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11
182. White-browed Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca leucophrys) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11
183. Fire-eyed Diucon (Xolmis pyrope) 2 near Angol 10.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 El Tabo 13.11
184. Chocolate-vented Tyrant (Neoxolmis rufiventris) 1 Pali Aike road 15.11, 1 Los Baguales 15.11
185. Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montana) 1 Hostería Las Vicuñas, Putre 20.11, 1 Ancuta 21.11
186. Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis microptera) 1 Los Baguales 15.11, 1 Surire 21.11 These birds are rare in Chile, although ranging widely throughout Argentina and Bolivia. Amazingly we managed to see two, one in the south near the border with Argentina and one in the extreme north near the Bolivian border!
187. Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola capistrata) c. 8 Los Baguales 15.11
188. Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola rufivertex) 1 seen briefly Cotacotani 19.11
189. Puna Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola juninensis) 1 Las Cuevas 19.11, 1 Las Cuevas 20.11, 1 Chungará 20.11, 1 Surire (Chilcaya) 21.11. I think there may have been a few others.
190. White-browed Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola albilora) 3 Farellones 23.11
191. Giant (White-fronted) Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola albifrons) 1 Las Cuevas 19.11, 1 Chucuyo 19.11, n Parinacota 20.11, 1 Las Cuevas 20.11
192. Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant (Muscisaxicola flavinucha) c. 4 Los Baguales 15.11
193. Andean Negrito (Lessonia oreas) 4 Cotacotani 19.11, 2 Chungará 20.11
194. Austral (Patagonian) Negrito (Lessonia rufa) very common throughout Magallanes region
195. Spectacled Tyrant (Hymenops perspicillatus) 1 Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11
196. Rufous-tailed Plantcutter (Phytotoma rara) 2 Rocas de Santo Domingo 13.11, 2 Torres del Paine 16.11
197. Chilean Swallow (Tachycineta meyeni / leucopyga) very common from Santiago de Chile southwards
198. Blue-and-white Swallow (Notiochelidon cyanoleuca) 1 near Torres del Paine 15.11, 1 Torres del Paine 16.11, 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 20.11, 2 Farellones 23.11. The birds were of the southern race patagonica - Patagonian Swallow.
199. Barn Swallow (Hirundo rustica) 1 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Primera Angostura marsh 14.11, n Lluta Valley 22.11 There may have been others.
200. Andean Swallow (Hirundo andecola) 1 Chucuyo 19.11, 1 Cotacotani 20.11
201. Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) (Riparia riparia) 1 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11
202. Cliff Swallow (Hirundo pyrrhonota) 1 Primera Angostura marsh 14.11 on the ground with a group of Barn Swallows
203. Southern House-Wren (Troglodytes aedon musculus) 1 at a petrol stop between Santiago & Angol 10.11, 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 San Antonio 13.11, 1 15km south of Porvenir 17.11, 1 Lluta Valley 22.11 The latter bird, in the Lluta Valley was of the race tecellatus, and very different in appearance from the other birds seen - very grey and barred, and possibly a shorter tail - possible future split?
204. Chiguanco Thrush (Turdus chiguanco) common around Putre, especially Putre wet gorge where abundant 19.11 - 20.11
205. Austral Thrush (Turdus falcklandii) common from Chillán southwards. Clive & Eleanor also saw them at Farellones and in Santiago de Chile
206. Chilean Mockingbird (Mimus thenca) 1 between Santiago & Angol 10.11, 1 Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 Chillán 12.11, 2 Farellones 23.11
207. Patagonian Mockingbird (Mimus patagonicus) 1 Primera Angostura 14.11
208. Correndera Pipit (Anthus correndera) 1 Leyda 13.11, 1 Seno Otway 14..11, 1 Pali Aike road 15.11
209. Blue-and-yellow Tanager (Thraupis bonariensis) resident pair at Hostería Las Vicuñas, Putre 19.11 - 21.11 - they attacked the wing mirrors of parked cars religiously every morning! Also 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre wet gorge 20.11
210. Golden-billed Saltator (Saltator aurantiirostris) 1 Putre wet gorge 19.11 - 20.11
211. Band-tailed Seedeater (Catamenia analis) c. 3 Putre dry gorge 19.11, 1 Putre 20.11
212. Chestnut-throated Seedeater (Sporophila telasco) 1 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11, n Lluta Valley 22.11
213. Greater Yellow-Finch (Sicalis auriventris) 2 Los Baguales 15.11
214. Greenish Yellow-Finch (Sicalis olivascens) n Putre dry gorge 19.11, n Putre 20.11
215. Patagonian Yellow-Finch (Sicalis lebruni) 2 Seno Otway 14.11, n Los Baguales 15.11
216. Grassland Yellow-Finch (Sicalis luteola) several at roadside stop near Curico 10.11, n Leyda 13.11
217. Blue-black Grassquit (Volatinia jacarina) 1 Lluta Valley 22.11
218. Slender-billed Finch (Xenospingus concolor) 3 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
219. White-winged Diuca-Finch (Diuca speculifera) 2 Las Cuevas 19.11, 2 Cotacotani 19.11, 2 Las Cuevas 20.11
220. Common Diuca-Finch (Diuca diuca) 1 near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta 10.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11, n Chillán 12.11
221. Black-throated Flower-piercer (Diglossa brunneiventris) 1 Putre dry gorge 19.11
222. Canary-winged (Black-throated) Finch (Melanodera melanodera) 4 Pali Aike road 15.11
223. Patagonian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus patagonicus) 1 Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11
224. Grey-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus gayi) 1 near Angol on way to Nahuelbuta 10.11, 1 El Tabo 13.11, 1 Primera Angostura 14.11, n Pali Aike road 15.11, n Los Baguales 15.11, n Torres del Paine 16.11, 1 Farellones 23.11
225. Black-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus atriceps) 1 Putre wet gorge 19.11, n Parinacota 19.11, 2 Chungará 20.11, n Putre 20.11, 1 Surire 21.11
226. Mourning Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus fruticeti) very common around Putre 19.11 - 21.11, n Farellones 23.11
227. Plumbeous Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus unicolor) n Los Baguales 15.11, n Cotacotani 19.11, 1 Chungará 20.11
228. Red-backed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus dorsalis) 2 Cotacotani 19.11. In rarity terms, probably the best sighting of the trip - they have been recorded from this area rarely in the past, but are only reliable further south in the El Tatio area
229. White-throated Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus erythronotus) 1 Cotacotani 19.11, 1 Cotacotani 20.11
230. Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus plebejus) n just east of Putre 20.11
231. Band-tailed Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus alaudinus) n Los Cipreses 12.11
232. Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis) common everywhere. The southern race with a relatively plain grey head look quite different from the stripe-headed northern race.
233. Cinereous Conebill (Conirostrum cinereum) 3 San Miguel de Azapa 22.11
234. Shiny Cowbird (Molothrus bonariensis) 1 between Chillán and Rancagua 12.11, 1 Lluta Valley 22.11. Others seen but not recorded
235. Austral Blackbird (Curaeus curaeus) n Nahuelbuta 11.11, n Chillán 12.11, 1 El Tabo 13.11
236. Yellow-winged Blackbird (Agelaius thilius) 4 Leyda 13.11
237. Long-tailed Meadowlark (Sturnella loyca) common roadside bird from Santiago de Chile southwards
238. Peruvian Meadowlark (Sturnella bellicosa) 1 Lluta Valley 21.11, 3 Lluta River mouth 22.11, n Lluta Valley 22.11
239. Hooded Siskin (Carduelis magellanica) common around Putre 19.11 - 21.11, 2 san Miguel de Azapa 22.11, 1 Farellones 23.11
240. Black Siskin (Carduelis atrata) small flocks throughout Lauca & Surire areas
241. Black-chinned Siskin (Carduelis barbata) n Angol 11.11, n Nahuelbuta 11.11, n between Punta Arenas and Fuerte Bulnes 14.11, Río Rubens 15.11, n Los Baguales 15.11
242. House Sparrow (Passer domesticus) towns and villages
1. Austral Rail (Rallus antarcticus) 1 bird responded immediately to a tape in the marsh on the left hand side just inside the Lago Sarmiento entrance gate to Torres del Paine. However, despite calling repeatedly for a lengthy spell, it refused to come into view, staying just inside the dense reeds. This is the norm here, although it is occasionally glimpsed as it dashes across gaps in the vegetation. We were very satisfied just to hear this bird, considered extinct until some 25 years ago.
2. Striped Woodpecker (Picoides lignarius) Several heard at Nahuelbuta 11.11, 1 heard at El Tabo 13.11 (seen by Clive & Eleanor but not by myself), 1 heard Torres del Paine 16.11. Each time they called just once, and then fell completely silent, and no amount of searching, tape playback etc could bring them into view. The bird at El Tabo was seen by Clive & Eleanor when it flew into a dead tree, but it moved on before I could get onto it.
3. Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus) one bird heard calling very close (< 50 metres) at Nahuelbuta, but didn't show despite tape playback, instead moving further away into the trees. Very frustrating! Also looked for in Torres del Paine (Lago Gray area) and by Clive & Eleanor at Puyehue without success
4. White-throated Tapaculo (Scelorchilus albicollis) heard at El Tabo 13.11 in response to a tape, but couldn't be attracted in in the short time we had available. We should really have tried for this bird at dawn, and allowed far more time for what is a notoriously skulking bird.
5. Grass Wren (Cistothorus platensis) heard but not seen in very windy conditions at Torres del Paine 16.11
The main target species that we missed are detailed below, with suggestions for where they might be seen.
1. Puna Rhea (Rhea (pennata) tarapacensis) Often seen along the drive to Surire, as well as within the Lauca area. Much less tolerant of humans than the Magallanes rheas
2. Patagonian Tinamou (Tinamotis ingoufi) Difficult bird in Chile - Ricardo told us that they are more reliably seen in southern Argentina, not far from el Calafate.
3. Hooded Grebe (Podiceps gallardoi) has been reported from roadside pools near Puerto Natales but extremely rare at best.
4. Peruvian Diving-Petrel (Pelecanoides garnotii) possible offshore from Arica
5. Gentoo Penguin (Pygoscelis papua) some colonies in Argentinean Patagonia. Occasionally seen in Chile
6. Rockhopper Penguin (Eudyptes crestatus) restricted to islands in the Chilean fjords - large colony on Isla Noir.
7. Rufous-tailed Hawk (Buteo ventralis) best place is probably Chiloé Island, which I didn't visit. Also possible at Torres del Paine. This is a forest hawk, and can be very difficult to find.
8. White-throated Caracara (Phalcoboenus albogularis) possible at Torres del Paine (including Los Baguales) and Ushuaia rubbish dump in Argentina, but apparently not in between
9. Forster's (Striated) Caracara (Phalcoboenus australis) restricted to outer islands in fjords
10. Slate-colored Coot (Fulica ardesiaca) possible at Chungará, but not apparently elsewhere in Lauca area. We made a half-hearted attempt to see it, but didn't try very hard due to annoying flies and recurrence of altitude sickness
11. Fuegian (Cordilleran) Snipe (Gallinago stricklandii) restricted to outer islands in fjords. I'm not aware of any reliable sites.
12. Snowy Sheathbill (Chionis alba) possible in austral winter in Primera Angostura area, but rarely still present from October onwards. Most reliable site during the breeding season is the Isla Marta sealion colony in the Magellan Straits, a small islet adjacent to the Isla Magdalena penguin colony
13. Peruvian (Chilean) Tern (Sterna lorata) seen sometimes offshore from Arica, but no breeding colonies here - they do however breed offshore from Antofagasta to the south
14. Golden-spotted Ground-Dove (Metriopelia aymara) can be seen in the Lauca area, e.g. around Parinacota
15. Slender-billed Parakeet (Enicognathus leptorhynchus) I didn't go far enough south to have a real chance of this bird - others have seen them at Nahuelbuta, but the rangers told us that they were not there during our visit, and that we would need to go further south. Chiloé Island is apparently a reliable spot - Clive & Eleanor had a flock of about 20 birds there later in the trip.
16. Mountain Parakeet (Bolborhynchus aurifrons) possible at El Yeso, Putre etc. Gonzalo told us that they used to be reliable until recently just east of Putre along the old road towards Lauca - we dipped, but some other birders we met saw them here.
17. Chilean Woodstar (Eulidia yarrellii) possible in the Azapa Valley, but getting increasingly rare - Gonzalo referred to this bird as the second most endangered in Chile, after the Juan Fernández Firecrown. The row of flowering bushes near San Miguel de Azapa which used to be reasonably reliable for them was cut down and destroyed earlier this year, and they have now become even harder to find - Gonzalo birds regularly in this area and has only seen one in the past 12 months.
18. Creamy-rumped Miner (Geositta isabellina) Possible at Farellones and at Portillo
19. Crag Chilia (Chilia melanura) Disappointed to dip this one, but they were hard to find this year. Can be seen at Farellones and El Yeso. Christian told us that in September they were easy to find both along the ridge just before reaching Farellones and on the escarpment at the end of the grassy plateau accessed by a track running left from the middle of town. However, October saw two unseasonal and very heavy snowfalls which disrupted their breeding attempts, after which they had disappeared. On 23.11 we tried both here, and further down the valley back towards Santiago de Chile where they winter but with no luck. Clive & Eleanor also tried here with Michel on 9.11, also with no luck.
20. Blackish Cinclodes (Cinclodes antarcticus) restricted to outer islands in fjords, especially the Parque Nacional Cabo de Hornos, only accessible by boat.
21. Grey-flanked Cinclodes (Cinclodes oustaleti) possible in Andes near Santiago, and also in Magallanes.
22. Dusky-tailed Canastero (Asthenes humicola) Another annoying dip. Clive & Eleanor saw this bird at Farellones on 9.11, but we didn't really have time to look when I visited on 23.11 Thanks Iberia!!
23. Chestnut-throated Huet-huet (Pteroptochos castaneus) The most often recommended sites are at Las Lajas and along the road up from Chillán towards Las Termas. One possible scooted out from the side of the road and vanished under the car, leaving a trail of loose feathers but no sign of the bird itself.
24. D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant (Ochthoeca oenanthoides) Uncommon at Putre - some other birders we met saw one at Putre wet gorge 21.11
25. White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis andicola) possible around Surire and Lauca
26. Tamarugo Conebill (Conirostrum tamarugense) possible around Arica, but very unreliable. The most reliable spot is the section of the Reserva Nacional Pampa del Tamarugal near Pica, east of Iquique
27. Giant Conebill (Oreomanes fraseri) inhabits polylepis woodland around Arica. Not looked for by us
28. Yellow-bridled Finch (Melanodera xanthogramma) can be seen in places in Magallanes, e.g. the southern mountains on Tierra del Fuego. Also possible in Torres del Paine
1. Peale's Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis) several seen offshore between Punta Arenas and Fuerte Bulnes 14.11
2. Southern Sea Lion (Otaria byronia) groups seen sunning themselves on buoys offshore at San Antonio
3. Patagonian Gray Fox (Pseudalopex griseus) several seen in the area around Seno Otway 14.11
4. Guanaco (Lama guanicoe) Common in the Magallanes area especially Torres del Paine.
We also saw Llamas (Lama glama) and Alpacas (Lama pacos) but these are domesticated animals rather than wild populations.
5. Vicuña (Vicugna vicugna) Common in the Lauca area
6. Patagonian Skunk (Conepatus humboldti) One seen on exit from Torres del Paine on 16.11
7. Mountain Vizcacha (Viscacha) (Lagidium viscacia) Common in Lauca and Surire areas
8. North Andean Deer (Northern Huemul) (Hippocamelus antisensis) Our sighting of one of these highly threatened animals on the outskirts of Putre on 20.11 was, objectively, probably as good as any bird sighting throughout the trip.
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