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A Report from birdtours.co.uk

Cuba, March 2005,

Tony Murray

Conservation Officer, National Parks & Wildlife Service, Wexford Wildfowl Reserve, Republic of Ireland

Email: tmurray@duchas.ie

Introduction.

This birding holiday trip was undertaken by both myself and James Kilroy of the National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) in Ireland. Our aim was to see as many of Cuba's endemic bird species and subspecies as possible, as well as the general West Indian specialities. Considering our timing in March, many of the North American wintering migrants should be present in good numbers too. We followed a well-worn birding path, first travelling west from Havana and anti-clockwise around the country. Most of the endemics can be seen by visiting four main areas, hill forests west of Havana (La Guira NP and Soroa area), the Zapata Peninsula (Cienaga de Zapata) Cayo Coco and the Najasa/La Belen NP area near Camaguey. This was not my first visit to the West Indies, having worked with Birdlife International/Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (Global Programmes Dept.) and partners in the region including Anguilla National Trust, and National Trust of the Turks & Caicos Islands. Birdlife International has declared Cuba as an Endemic Bird Area (EBA) of Critical priority. The main treat is habitat loss, which has been extensive. In additional introduced predators and hunting/trapping have also ad their impacts on the Cuban birds. Depending on which authority you follow Cuba has between 25 and 30 endemic species, some authorities classify some as subspecies.

Itinerary.

On the morning of March 5th 2005 we departed Dublin with Aer Lingus to Amsterdam, to connect with Martinair to Havana. Following a ten hour delay while Martinair repaired the plane we finally arrived in Havana at 3am, dropped to our prebooked Hotel with prebooked transfer. Seeing as we were so late they had given out our room, but quickly arranged another room at a nearby hotel and sent us by taxi, at 4am we finally got some welcome sleep. We had arranged our hire car collection at Hotel La Sevilla in Havana and following paperwork signing we hit the road. We headed straight for Soroa and stayed there two nights. We then headed to Playa Larga where we stayed for four nights (8th to 11th inc). Then off east for Najasa/La Belen, but stopped halfway at Playa Ancon near Trinidad. Next two nights in La Belen NP (13th & 14th). We then drove north to Moron, which we used as a base for the area and for Cayo Coco, we stayed here two nights (15th and 16th). On St. Patricks Day we hit the road again for Playa Larga, visiting Santa Clara en route. The next two days (18th & 19th) we birded again with Chino around the Cienaga de Zapata. We spent our last few days then enjoying Cuban sunshine, music, culture and mojitos up north again.

Money.

In November 2004 the Cuban government withdrew the circulation of the US Dollar (US$) from circulation. Prior to this most tourists operated solely with US$. With US$ off the scene we carried Euro and Euro traveller cheques. Euro cash was widely accepted and there was no problem changing Euro traveller cheques in some hotels, Cadeca (Bureau De Change) offices and banks. In Cuba there are two currencies in circulation now, Cuban pesos and Convertible pesos. Basically Cuban people use Cuban pesos, and non-nationals/tourists use Convertible pesos (cuc). The Convertible pesos (cuc) is linked to the US$, so that 1US$ = 1cuc, only the Cuban peso varies and fluctuates in value and rose against the dollar by 7% over our stay. Credit cards are not accepted everywhere but are handy to have when then can be used, it should be noted that credit cards issue by a US bank or affiliated to a US bank are not accepted. Similarly travellers cheques in US$ will not be cashed everywhere, but some places will take them, but will charge an additional charge of 10% to change. This is generally the same with US$ cash, so basically Euros are the best option.

Costs, accommodation, food etc.

Accommodation costs in Cuba are generally quite cheap and inexpensive. We generally stayed in widely available mid-ranged priced accommodation throughout, which as shared works out similar to the casa particulare accommodation and affords the independence of coming and going as you wish and not disturbing anyone by early starts. Standards vary greatly, ranging from pretty bad to excellent within this price range. Food also varies considerably and it is generally the same menu and options available throughout the country. In Soroa we stayed in the Villa Soroa (55cuc/twin room/night), a good spot which affords easy access to the Mirador Trail and has good birding on the grounds. In Playa Larga (Cienaga de Zapata) area we stayed in the Hotel Playa Larga (49cuc/twin room/night), a poor hotel with a bad reputation for dodgy food, to which we concurred with. The Osnedy's the casa particulare in Playa Larga would probably be the better option, and they are used to early starts and birders here so probably no hassles coming and going at all hours here. In La Belen we stayed in the La Belen NP grounds (10cuc - 17cuc /single rooms/night) very good accommodation with good food produced from the ranch, also has a pool. In Moron, we stayed in La Casona de Moron (26cuc/twin room/night), a nice place with average restaurant, pool (empty), but with a late disco both nights. In Havana we stayed in Hotel Caribbean on the main Avienda (54cuc/twin room/night), a good central location. Overall food was pretty average, except that in La Belen and in Chino's which was nice Cuban home made food.

Car hire, road conditions, driving, etc.

Car hire in Cuba is relatively straightforward and much like anywhere else, though relatively expensive when compared with other countries. Having originally booked (with havanacarhire) a Suzuki Vitara for our visit about a month before we travelled, we were emailed about a week before travelling to say they could not fulfil the booking, which left us a bit stuck to say the least. Thanks to Andy Mitchell and Havanatour (sales@havanatour.co.uk) we/they were able to organise us a Toyota Yaris for the duration we required through havanaautos. Road conditions are pretty poor, even at times on the Central Autopiste, especially east of Santa Clara where it seems to change from dual carriageway with a central reservation to a three-lane highway, both ways.. Outside the Central Autopiste the roads vary and we certainly put our car through it paces. Signage is virtually non-existent and we found the Rough Guide map essential and quite useful but not absolutely accurate. Getting lost seems par for the course, but we asked directions on numerous occasions and always found our way back on course thanks to helpful Cubans. On both our visits to Cayo Coco police presence was high (even going on at 0630hrs) and coming off to Moron our first day we were stopped by police for supposedly crossing a line in the road. Considering lines on roads in Cuba are virtually non existent this seemed extraordinary, anyway were fined 30cuc for it, payable in Havana, when we got there. For this reason it is important to have your passport, driving licence, and rental agreement with you at all times driving.

Visa's.

Everyone wishing to enter Cuba as a tourist is required to apply for a Tourist Visa-card. There is no Cuban embassy in Ireland. If you want a Tourist Card Application Form with full details sent to you by mail, you have to send a request with a stamped addressed envelope (SAE) to The Cuban Consulate, 167 High Holborn, London, WC1V 6PA, UK. Check out the website www.cubaldn.com or the email addresses embacuba@cubaldn.com /consulcuba@cubaldn.com

Weather, conditions etc.

Generally the weather was hot and sunny throughout, with temperatures over 30°C quite often, with the only variation being in the Zapata area where we had light rainfall overnight on March 9th/10th and heavier though short lived thunderstorms overnight on 17th/18th March. This however did not effect our birding really. This dry weather during our trip was a continuation of a rather long dry spell, Chino had told us there were few ducks about and with the water retreating getting any rails, never mind Zapata Rail would be very difficult. It was also no doubt partly responsible for the large areas of recent burns we seen and on one day some serious fires were burning in the area. The only weather induced factor effecting birding was the strong wings in the Zapata area which is not conducive to locating bee hummingbird. Fortunately these strong winds were short lived.

Birding.

Access to pretty much anywhere never seemed to be a problem, and we were never refused access. You have to show your passports to get on and off Cayo Coco, and we were asked for them to get onto Cayo Paredon Grande, where we were also asked for a pen to keep! We used birding guides only twice. In Cienaga de Zapata, Orestes Garcia Martinez (El Chino), an excellent guide with unparalleled knowledge of the birds of Cienaga de Zapata area. When we arrived in Najasa we called to Pedro Regaldo who was unfortunately in Holguin for the next three days. Leonardo Benavides (in La Belen NP) organised a guide, Lulie, for us in La Belen NP. Though not to Chino's amazing standard, she brought us around La Belen NP and knew the spots for Cuban Grassquit within the park. We used both the Kirconnell/Garrido Birds of Cuba and the Raffaele et al Birds of the West Indies in tandem, good to compare with each other. We did not have tapes with us but Chino did have them and we used them with him a few times with him.

Notes on sites visited.

Soroa

Soroa is about just over one hour drive west of Havana, and easily accessed via the Autopiste. There is a garage at the Autopiste turn off and you follow this road right up to the Villa Soroa, just passing the Mirador carpark on the right. This is a nice place to spend a couple of days, with good accommodation and swimming pool and gardens. The Villa Soroa is only a hundred metres or so from the start of the forest trails with a walk to a nice view point, the Mirador. An excellent site for an introduction to Cuban birding, and we found Cuban Solitaire easily here at the top of the trail near the viewpoint. Yellow-headed Warblers are also common here. It was also the only location we seen Louisansa Waterthrush, Swainson's Warbler and Rose-breasted Grosbeak. There is also supposedly a chance of Blue-headed Quail-Dove on the forest trails early in the morning, but we did not see this species here. Cuban Pygmy-Owl is extremely common in the hotel grounds, and we seen one (or more?) on several occasions. Though Cuban Vireo is supposedly common here, for some reason we did not see this here, but seen it just about everywhere else. It did also seem to be the coolest here on our visit, a rather pleasant temperature much of the day.

La Guira National Park

La Guira National Park is about 40 km west of Soroa, near San Diego de Los Banos, and can be easily be done from a Soroa base. The two specialities of the area are Olive-capped Warbler and Cuban Solitaire.

The NP is signposted and easily found from San Diego de Los Banos. It's a long drive on a bad road to the pines about, 7km, to the site for Olive-capped Warblers, near some abandoned buildings. Possibly due to time of day it took us a while to locate them but eventually we did see up to 3 here. La Guira National Park was also the only place we seen Blackburnian Warbler. There are a number of tracks/trails and roads where you will see a good selection of warblers and a similar cast to that of Soroa. Cuban Grassquit is also a possibility here, though we did not see them here.

Zapata Peninsula/ Cienaga de Zapata

The turn off to Playa Larga is at kilometre 142 from Havana, heading for Australia, turn right before Central Australia and follow the road to Playa Larga. Playa Larga, situated on the famous Bay of Pigs and this is the key birding area in Cuba. This is really a large site with a multitude of sites within the Cienaga de Zapata, and at least four days is required to get to grips with all the species here. We spent 9th to 12th and 18th and 19th March here having returned to try again for the species we missed first time round. There are several sites worth a visit here, La Salina, Sopillar, Pálpite, La Turba, Crocodile Farm, the Ordenas area, the Cienfuegos area (East of Ordenas), and Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, as well as Playa Larga itself.

The La Salina site is accessed from Playa Larga itself (past Chino's house). You need to pay an entry here (10cuc), which goes towards the conservation fund on site. This is an excellent site for wetland birds. We seen many waders and herons here including Reddish Egret, Roseate Spoonbill, among many others. It's a long drive down the track, about 22km and we had our only puncture here, fortunately at the start, so we went back. We also had many Cuban Crab Hawk/Common Black Hawk here.

Sopillar, is found from driving north from Playa Larga to Pálpite village, and turning right past the bus stop. There are many tracks and trails here, within several open (cleared) areas here. Most of our time in the Cienaga de Zapata was spent birding these tracks and trails, where we seen Cuban Northern & Fernandina's Flicker, Bee Hummingbird, Cuban Bare-legged Owl, White-eyed Vireo, West Indian Whistling Duck, Key-West Quail Dove and Grey-headed Quail Dove, among many others. There's also a wetland at the end of the trail where we seen many Moorhen, Northern Jacana, American Bittern, Crested Caracara, Osprey and Blue-winged Teal. White-crowned Pigeon also seemed to be more common here than anywhere else in Cuba. Sopillar can also be reached off the Playa Giron Road. We tried hard for Blue-headed Quail-Dove here but seen only one bad view and heard a few. Where we got the West Indian Whistling Duck, at a lake Chino called Laguna de Sopillar, I picked out a Hooded Merganser, Chino told me was the second record for the Cienaga de Zapata

Pálpite is the first small village north of Playa Larga, the best trail is directly opposite the Sopillar turn. Best to park just after you turn off, out of the way of the residents, and go on foot. Chino had a Bee Hummingbird lined up for us here, but we had to forgo on the first day due to high winds, we then seen them here on 10th and 12th March. We seen Fernandina's Flicker nearer the village and though we tried hard for Blue-headed Quail-Dove we only heard one here.

The Crocodile Farm is north of Pálpite, just off the side of the road. Despite good reports we seen little here, but it is supposedly a spot worth looking for Red-shouldered Blackbird, but we just seen many Tawny-shouldered Blackbird here and a Limpkin.

The La Turba turn is just on the left before you meet the park exit (heading north from Playa Larga). There are some good trails here and Chino had seen a Gundlach's Hawk five days before we were here. We seen excellent views of Key-West Quail Dove here, but much the same cast otherwise. Following on the trail Chino brought us to a site just off the trail, where he had marked for Zapata Wren. Sure enough we got excellent views of a pair at close views and calling away, a little bit Sedge Warbler like in Ireland to my ear. We also went to another area to try for Red-shouldered Blackbird with Chino, where he encouragingly heard a Zapata Wren at a location he had not previously, and again we got even better views. I picked out the first Cuban Martin of the year here, on 10th March.

East of Sopillar, on the eastern side of the bridge you can see at the end of the Sopillar trails at the wetland is the Ordenas area. The habitat and trails are much like those of Sopillar. Our morning here with Chino proved to be one of our best mornings birding in Cuba. After hearing many Blue-headed Quail-Dove and getting unsatisfactory views we managed to see a pair giving excellent views at close range and we were even afforded a display here between the pair. James also managed a third bird here. We also got our best views of Grey-headed Quail Dove and great views of a Key-West Quail Dove too, just to complete the trio. We also managed to see a male Gundlach's Hawk here and we seen a pair of Bee Hummingbirds here thank to Chino's finely tuned ear. Even further east of this area is what Chino called the Cienfuegos area of the Cienaga de Zapata. This compromised of a large open area of water one side with habitat similar to that of La Turba on the other. Here we managed excellent views of a male and female Red-shouldered Blackbird, having been picked up by their distinctive call, and brought out of the dense habitat by Chino and his tape.

The Estacion Ecologica Amarillas is reached by driving back north from Playa Larga onto the Autopiste and driving East to km 164 and turning right to a rice plantation area, in the San Francisco area. The area is a farmland with a large area of open water and though not the best for endemic birds, though we did get excellent views of a male and female Red-shouldered Blackbird, and heard another, it is an excellent area for birding. Chestnut Mannakin were abundant and we seen Cuban Meadowlark, Indigo Bunting, Shiny Cowbird and Eastern Kingbird here. The wetland is full of birds and we seen Fulvous Whistling Duck, Northern Harrier, Common Snipe, Pied-billed Grebe, Bahama (White-cheeked) Pintail, Northern Shovelor and Least Bittern here to name just a few.

Cayo Coco

Cayo Coco is reached by driving the long causeway onto the island. There is good birding from the causeway including, many Red-breasted Merganser, Greater Flamingo, Magnificent Frigatebird, Laughing Gull and terns. Once on Cayo Coco we headed for the Flamingo Beach track where we got our only Zapata Sparrow of the trip only about 150m from the main road. Oriente Warblers seemed to be common here with ten along a one kilometre stretch of the road. We then moved to Cayo Guillermo where we drove 4.9km beyond the tarred road (or 4.2km from the Electric station) before we started birding. Here we easily found Bahama Mockingbird, much as I had seen in Turks & Caicos Islands, quite easily found and approached, feeding in some sort of berry bushes. We also seen a few Cuban Gnatcather here. Cayo Guillermo was also good for waders and herons and we seen our only Grey Kingbird & Semi-palmated Plover on Cayo Guillermo. On the opposite side of Cayo Coco lies Cayo Paredon Grande. Cayo Paredon Grande is accessed over a very suspect bridge and then a long drive to the lighthouse. You need to go through a military checkpoint after the bridge, but you'll have your passport from getting onto Cayo Coco anyway. We drove to the end and after getting out of the car heard and seen at least three Thick-billed Vireos in an area 100m to 500m back from the lighthouse. This is a species I had seen many times in the Turks & Caicos Islands, but is suggested as a separate subspecies here in Cuba. There's good birding around Cayo Paredon Grande and we seen our only Lesser Black-backed Gull of the trip here. It also seemed to be a good area for Crested Caracara and Cuban Crab Hawk/Common Black Hawk

Najasa/La Belen Area

The Najasa/La Belen area is situated south east of Camaguey. The best birding area is all around Najasa village and into La Belen NP. South of Najasa village the roads turns left for La Belen NP, there is also a left/straight on option to Najasa cemetery. The Najasa cemetery is a good birding area and we seen Giant Kingbird here, firstly giving nice views before flying high into some tall trees on the left hand side of the road. We also got Cuban Palm Crow here and brief views of Plain Pigeon. Our next day was spent within the La Belen NP, where we got good views of Plain Pigeon, another Giant Kingbird perched way up in a tree and our only Cuban Grassquits of the trip. Both the Cuban Parakeets and the Cuban parrot are common here, and it was good to see a nice selection of nestboxes for them. We tried a few wetlands in the area for Whistling Ducks, but none looked really suitable.

Playa Ancon

Rather than doing the Playa Larga to La Belen drive in one go we overnighted halfway near Trinidad and stayed in the very nice Costasur (70cuc/twin room/night - full board, including drinks). This is a nice coastal area, with the adjacent Laguna La Chorrera. In the Laguna La Chorrera we seen 2 Black Skimmers, supposedly quite rare in Cuba, also a good selection of waders, much as La Salina. There was a great selection of warblers along the coast including Prairie Warbler (25), Yellow Warbler (25), Palm Warbler (30), Black & white Warbler (2), Common Yellowthroat (15), American Redstart (5), Magnolia Warbler (2), Yellow-rumped Warbler (3), Ovenbird (1) and Northern Parula (2). This was also a good area for Cuban Vireo and though we didn't see it, Cuban Gnatcatcher can be seen in this area.

Contacts

Orestes Garcia Martinez (El Chino) Email: chino@zapata.atenas.inf.cu
Leonardo Benavides Email: leonardobenavides63@yahoo.es
Havanatour Email: sales@havanatour.co.uk

Acknowledgements.

We both would like to thank Aidan Kelly, Orestes Garcia Martinez and Andy Mitchell for there help in making this a highly successful and enjoyable Cuban birding trip and holiday. Go raibh míle maith agat.

References.

Cleeves, T., Gibbs-Williams, E., Hilton, G. & Murray, T. (1999) Wetland Bird Communities in the Turks & Caicos Islands, West Indies, 1999.
Garrido, O., Kirkconnell, A. (& Company, R. - Illustrator) (2000) Field Guide to the Birds of Cuba Helm.
Gorey, Conner (2004) Lonely Planet, Cuba. Lonely Planet Guide Books, 2004.
Kelly, A. G. (2002) Report on a birding trip to Cuba,15-29 December 2001.
Raffaele, H. Wiley, J. Garrido, O. Keith, A. & Raffaele, J. (2003) The Birds of the West Indies Helm Field Guides.
Mitchell, A., (2005) Cuban Birding Notes.
Murray, T., Cleeves, T., Gibbs-Williams, E. & Hilton, G.M. (1999) Bird Records from the Caicos Islands, February to April 1999.
Reise Know-How Verlag Peter Rump, Bielefeld. (2003) Rough Guide, Cuba Map. Rough Guide Books.
Sargeant, D. & N., (2002) Cuba Birding Trip Report, 14 - 27 March 2002.

Apologies for any errors or omissions...

Species list:

1. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
A single at La Belen NP on 14th March, and at least 3 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 were the only records.

2. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps
A single at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

3. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Common throughout on all coasts visited including in Havana, with at least 70 around the La Salina area on 09/03 by far the highest single site count.

4. Double-crested Cormorant Phalacrocorax auritus
Seen in fairly large numbers at Cayo Coco. Just a few noted at other sites during the trip.

5. Neotropic Cormorant  Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Only seen in La Salina and Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata, with a peak of over 150 at the former on 09/03, with smaller numbers at the latter on 19/03.

6. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
2 at Sopillar on 10/03, 4 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

7. Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
A single at Playa Ancon on 13/03 and 1 on Cayo Coco on 15/03 with 4 there on 16/03.

8. American Bittern Botarus lentiginosus
A single at Sopillar on 18/03 was the only record.

9. Least Bittern Ixobrychus exilis
2 seen well at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03, were the only records.

10. Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
Noted on many dates during the trip, with peak of 30 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

11. Great Egret Ardea alba
Noted on many dates during the trip , with peak of 30 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

12. Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Noted on many dates during the trip, with peak of 10 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

13. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
Noted on many dates during the trip, with peak of 10 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

14.Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor
Noted on many dates during the trip, with peak of 25 at La Salina on 09/03.

15. Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens
Peak of 6 at La Salina on 09/03, 3 on Cayo Guillermo on 15/03 and 2 on Cayo Coco also on 15/03.

16. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Very common and recorded daily, just about everywhere.

17. Green Heron Butorides virescens
A single at Playa Ancon on 13/03, a single at Sopillar on 18/03 and 8 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

18. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
2 adults at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 were the only records.

19. Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea
An immature at Playa Ancon on 13/03, 2 adults at La Belen NP on 14/03 and an immature at Sopillar on 18/03.

20. White Ibis Eudocimus albus
Noted on many dates during the trip, with peak of over 50 at La Salina on 09/03 but usually seen in smaller numbers.

21. Glossy Ibis Pelagadis falcinellus
A single at Sopillar on 10/03 and up to 15 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 were the only records.

22. Roseate Spoonbill Ajaia ajaja
Peak of over 30 at La Salina on 09/03 with a single in La Belen NP on 14/03 these were the only records.

23. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus ruber
Singletons were seen around the northern Cays on 15 & 16/03, with over a thousand seen in the distance seen coming off Cayo Coco 16/03.

24. West Indian Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arborea
After much searching we finally seen 15 at Laguna de Sopillar on 18/03, having spent many months searching for this species in the Caicos Islands it was good to see them again. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000) and is still declining. It has become a flagship species for conservation in the West Indies with the West Indian Whistling Duck Working Group working hard on a conservation education programme throughout the West Indies. In addition to these birds at Laguna de Sopillar we came across a farmer with three captive birds, and sadly the species is still hunted despite officially being legally protected in Cuba.

25. Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor
A flock of 11 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

26. Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
Small numbers were seen at Sopillar and in La Belen, with an estimated 250 seen around Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

27. Green-winged Teal Anas crecca
A single at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

28. Bahama (White-cheeked) Pintail Anas bahamensis
Two seen together at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

29. Northern Shovelor Anas clypeata
Two seen together at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

30. Ring-necked Duck Aythya collaris
A single female was seen on the Rio Gallinado, East of Cienfuegos, while driving from Trinidad to Najasa, this was our only record of this species.

31. Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator
Only seen around Cayo Coco where a minimum of 60 were seen on 15/03.

32. Hooded Merganser Cophodytes cucullatus
A single at Laguna de Sopillar on 18/03, was the only record. Chino told us this was only the second record for the Zapata area.

33. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Very common and recorded daily, just about everywhere.

34. Osprey Pandion heliaetus
Common and regularly seen around wetlands and the coast throughout the whole trip.

35. Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus
Between one and three seen around Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03, these were the only records.

36. Gundlach's Hawk Accipiter gundlachi
After much searching a single was seen briefly on the Ordenas area of the Cienaga de Zapata on 18/03. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

37. Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus
Fairly common around the coast and seen in La Salina (2-3 on 09/03), Playa Larga (1 on 09/03, 1 on 19/03) and on Cayo Paredon Grande (1 on 16/03). This Cuban race of this species has been considered a separate species, Cuban Crab Hawk Buteogallus gundlachii.
38. Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
Recorded as follows, 1 at Sopillar on 10/03 and 1 at Playa Larga 19/03.

39. Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
Recorded as follows, 1 at Jaguey Grande on 08/03, 1 at Sopillar on 10/03, 1 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03, 1 at Playa Larga 19/03.

40. Crested Caracara Caracara plancus
Quite common, though not seen everyday, usually seen in singles and often while driving. Three were seen on Cayo Paredon Grande on 16/03. Not seen in the Soroa area.

41. American Kestrel Falco sparverius
Very common and recorded daily, just about everywhere.

42. Merlin Falco columbarius
Recorded as follows, 1 at Sopillar on 10/03 and 1 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

43. Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
A group of about 20-25 birds were seen in La Belen NP on a few occasions. This species was introduced to many parts of the West Indies centuries ago.

44. American Purple Gallinule Porphyrula martinica
A single at La Turba on 10/03 with 3 at the Crocodile Farm, north of Pálpite on 11/03 and at least 7 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

45. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Very common and recorded at all wetland sites visited, with several hundred at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03 by far the most at any one site.

46. American Coot Fulica americana
A single was seen at La Turba on 10/03 with up to 150 hundred at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

47. Limpkin Aramus guarauna
A single at the Crocodile Farm, north of Pálpite on 10/03, 4 in La Belen on 14/03 and 1 in the Ordenas area on 18/03.

48. Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Quite common and seen on several times throughout our trip including in the Zapata, Playa Ancon, La Belen and Cayo Coco areas.

49. Semi-palmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus
At least 30 were seen near the bridge at Cayo Guillermo on 15/03, this was our only record.

50. Black-bellied Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Quite common, though in small numbers and seen in most coastal wetlands visited.

51. Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
25 at La Salina on 09/03 and 3 in La Belen on 14/03 were the only records.

52. Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa
Quite common, though in small numbers and seen in most suitable wetlands visited.

53. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
2 at La Salina on 09/03, 6 at Laguna la Chorrea, Playa Ancon on 12/03 and one at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

54. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes
2 at La Salina on 09/03 and 3 at Laguna la Chorrea, Playa Ancon on 12/03.

55. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
2 at La Salina on 09/03 were the only records.

56. Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatopus
1 at La Salina on 09/03, 1 at Playa Ancon on 12/03 and 3 at Cayo Guillermo on 15/03.

57. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Up to 15 were seen at Cayo Guillermo on 15/03.

58. Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla
10 were seen at La Salina on 09/03.

59. Common (Wilson's) Snipe Gallinago gallinago delicata
20 were seen at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

60. Stilt Sandpiper Micropalmus himantopus
2 were seen at La Salina on 09/03.

61. Short-billed Dowitcher Limnodromus griseus
8 were seen at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

62. Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
Quite common along the north coast especially around Cayo Coco.

63. Ring-billed Gull Larus delawarensis
2 1st-winters were seen off Cayo Coco causeway on 16/03.

64. Herring Gull Larus argentatus
1 2nd-winter was seen off Cayo Coco causeway on 16/03.

65. Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus
An adult was seen on Cayo Paredon Grande on 16/03.

66. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
2 seen at La Salina on 09/03, and 2 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas on 19/03.

67. Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Quite common and regularly seen along the coast and also at La Salina.

68. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
4 seen off Cayo Coco causeway on 16/03.

69. Black Skimmer Rhynchops niger
2 at Laguna la Chorrea, Playa Ancon on 12/03.

70. Rock Dove (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia
Small numbers seen around large settled areas.

71. White-crowned Pigeon Columba leucocephala

Fairly common in wooded areas and recorded almost daily, seemed to be most common in the Zapata area and we seen at least 20 in the Sopillar area on the morning of 10/03. This species is listed as Near-threatened in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

72. Plain Pigeon Columba inornata

Only seen in the La Belen/Najasa area where on 13/03 we managed to see brief views of two birds in flight near Najasa cemetery, next day, 14/04 we managed to see four birds inside La Belen NP. This species is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

73. Zenaida Dove Zenaida aurita
Quite common and seen throughout Cuba.

74. Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura
Quite common and seen throughout Cuba.

75. White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
A single was seen in Sopillar on 10/03 and 2 on Cayo Coco on 16/03.

76. Common Ground Dove Columbina passerina
Quite common and seen throughout Cuba.

77. Key West Quail-dove Geotrygon chrysia
One was seen very well perched at La Turba on 10/03 with another seen walking the forest floor in the Ordenas area on 18/03. A beautiful species that had eluded me in the Caicos Islands.

78. Grey-headed Quail-dove Geotrygon caniceps
One was heard at Sopillar on 09/03, one was seen very briefly giving unsatisfactory views in Sopillar on 10/03, one probable at La Turba on 11/03 and two were heard again at Sopillar on 12/03, with one briefly giving unsatisfactory views again. On 18/03 two were heard and one again flushed in the Ordenas area before we finally got excellent views with Chino of a bird perched at close range, and well worth the wait and frustration of the last few days. This species is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

79. Blue-headed Quail-dove Starnoenas cyanocephala
One was heard at Pálpite on 10/03, one was seen very briefly giving unsatisfactory views in Sopillar on 10/03, we finally managed to see two birds really well walking the track in front of us giving excellent views at close range and we were even afforded a display here between the pair. A third was also seen briefly here. One of the most fantastic birds we seen and well worth the doubling back for. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000). Unfortunately this species seems to be suffering from deforestation and habitat loss and disturbance and is prone to dove trapping that is still carried out.

80. Collared Dove Streptopelia decaoto
Good numbers seen around Varadero at the end of our trip.

81. Cuban Parakeet Aratinga euops
Only seen around the Najasa and La Belen NP area where it seemed to be quite common and seen throughout our couple of days in the area. It maybe benefiting from a nestbox scheme in La Belen NP. This species is listed as Vulnerable in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

82. Cuban Parrot Amazona leucocephala
Firstly seen in Sopillar on 09/03, 2 were also seen in Pálpite on 09/03, with two there again 10/03, 7 in La Belen NP on 13/03, 5 again in La Belen NP on 14/03 and 2 near La Belen NP on 14/03. This species is listed as Near-threatened in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

83. Great Lizard Cuckoo Saurothera merlini
Quite common, and seen quite regularly, though more often heard than seen.

84. Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
Quite common and seen throughout Cuba.

85. Cuban Bare-legged Owl Otus lawrencii
In Soroa one birds' presence was alerted to us be an agitated West Indian Woodpecker while it day roosted, one or two were also seen regularly under the lights later in the evening in Soroa.

86. Cuban Pygmy Owl Glaucidium siju
Chino brought us to see two day roost sites in Sopillar for this species where we managed to see a bird at both sites well with too much interruption.

87. Stygian Owl Asio stygius
On 09/03 Chino brought us to see a bird near his office at a site where he knew one to call regularly, we managed to see it well, spotlighting. He told us the next day that he heard another near his house in Playa Larga after we left after dinner.

88. Greater Antillean Nightjar Caprimulgus cubanensis
With Chino we managed to see at least three in the twilight in the La Turba area on 10/03.

89. Antillean Palm Swift Tachornis phoenicobia
Quite common and seen near Soroa, La Belen NP, Havana, Cardenas and a few sites while driving through Cuba.

90. Cuban Emerald Chlorostilbon ricordii
Quite common and seen pretty much daily.

91. Bee Hummingbird Mellisuga helenae
After arriving in Playa Larga we discussed seeing Bee Hummingbird over a rum or two with Chino, to which he was quite confident we would.. Strong winds prevented this on our first day with him but we managed to see a male with him the following day (10/10) in Pálpite, after an anxious wait. Also on 10/03 thanks to Chino's fine tuned ears we seen another male at close range in Sopillar. On 12/03 we seen the male again in Pálpite at the same site as on 10/03. On 18/03 we managed to see both a male and female in the Ordenas area, though not as well as in Pálpite or Sopillar. Hurricane Michelle, which hit the Bay of Pigs area quite hard in November 2001 had a serious effect on this species but fortunately it has managed to recover over the last few years. Illegal logging, still takes place and this deforestation/habitat loss/disturbance continues to have an effect on this sensitive species. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

92. Cuban Trojan Priotelus temnurus
Quite common throughout Cuba in all suitable woodland habitat, and as well as being seen a lot is quite often heard calling.

93. Cuban Tody Todus multicolor
Quite common, and seen in all good woodland during our trip. With its beautiful call and appearance we never tired of seeing this species through the whole trip.

94. Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Quite common and singletons seen all along the coast and in most wetlands visited.

95. West Indian Woodpecker Melanerpes superciliaris
Quite common, and seen in all good woodland during our trip.

96. Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
Two in the La Salina area on 09/03, 1 in La Belen NP on 14/03, 1 on Cayo Coco on 16/03 and 1 in Sopillar on 18/03.

97. Cuban Green Woodpecker Xiphidiopicus percussus
Quite common, and seen in all good woodland during our trip.

98. Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus
A pair were seen really well near Sopillar village on 18/03, this Cuban race of this species has been considered a separate species, Cuban Flicker Colaptes chrysocaulosus.
99. Fernandina's Flicker Colaptes fernandinae
After much searching on 09/03 we finally managed to see a female in the Sopillar area, and later that day nice views of a male near Pálpite village. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

100. Cuban Cresent-eyed Pewee Contopus caribaeus
Quite common and seen throughout Cuba.

101. La Sagra's Flycatcher Myiarchus sagrae
Quite common, and seen in all good woodland during our trip.

102. Eastern Kingbird Tyrannus tyrannus
A single in the Cienfuegos area of the Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

103. Grey Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis
A single on Cayo Guillermo on 15/03 was the only record.

104. Loggerhead Kingbird Tyrannus caudifasciatus
Quite common, and seen in all good woodland and scrubby areas during our trip.

105. Giant Kingbird Tyrannus cubensis
Only seen in the La Belen/Najasa area where on 13/03 we managed to see one well near Najasa cemetery, next day, 14/04 we managed to see another one inside La Belen NP. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

106. Cuban Martin Progne cryptoleuca
Firstly seen on 10/03 in the La Turba area of Cienaga de Zapata, this was the first record of the year. Not seen again until 19/03 when at least two were seen in the Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata. Also seen at the end of out trip when we seen a few in Havana.

107. Tree Swallow Tachycineta bicolor
Quite common, though not seen every day, on occasions large numbers were seen together.

108. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
At least three were seen in the Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 with good numbers of Tree Swallows. These were the only records.

109. Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
At the end of our trip 8 were seen in Havana passing through.

110. Cuban Palm Crow Corvus palmarum
One bird was seen near Najasa cemetery on 13/03 and on 15/03 six were seen near Najasa village. These were the only records of this very local bird. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

111. Cuban Crow Corvus nasicus
Only seen in the Najasa/La Belen NP and the Zapata peninsula areas. It appeared to be quite common in the Najasa/La Belen NP area with smaller numbers were also seen in the Playa Larga area of the Zapata peninsula.

112. Zapata Wren Ferminia cerverai
Only seen in the La Turba area of the Cienaga de Zapata, where a pair were seen well at one well known location, while another male gave excellent views down to six feet at a new location for Chino. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

113. Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea
Recorded as follows, 2 in Sopillar on 09/03, 1 at La Turba on 11/03.

114. Cuban Gnatcatcher Polioptila lembeyei
Only seen on Cayo Coco, Cayo Guillermo and Cayo Paredon Grande where small numbers were seen each day.

115. Cuban Solitaire Myadestes elisabeth
A single bird was seen very well near the top of the Mirador trail, Soroa, on 07/03, it or another was heard again next morning in roughly the same area of the Mirador trail. This species is listed as Near-threatened in Threatened Birds of the World BirdLife International (2000).

116. Red-legged Thrush Turdus plumbeus
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

117. Gray Catbird Dumetella carolinensis
Common and seen throughout Cuba, despite being listed as being quite scarce.

118. Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

119. Bahama Mockingbird Mimus gundlachii
Only seen on the west end of Cayo Guillermo where two birds were watched at close range on 15/03.

120. Thick-billed Vireo Vireo crassirostris
Only seen on Cayo Paredon Grande where up to three were seen in the vicinity of the lighthouse on 16/03.

121. White-eyed Vireo Vireo griseus
Recorded as follows, 2 in Sopillar on 10/03, 1 in Sopillar on 11/03.

122. Cuban Vireo Vireo gundlachii
Recorded throughout the trip with the exception of the Soroa area. Recorded as follows, 1 in Sopillar on 09/03, 2 in Sopillar on 10/03, 2 in Sopillar on 11/03, 1 at Playa Ancon on 12/03, 2 at Playa Ancon on 13/03, 2 in La Belen on 14/03, 2 on Cayo Guillermo on 15/03, 2 on Cayo Coco on 15/03 and 3 on Cayo Coco on 16/03.

123. Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons
1 in Soroa on 07/03 was the only record.

124. Black-whiskered Vireo Vireo altiloquus
1 in Soroa on 07/03, 1 in the Ordenas area of the Zapata area on 18/03 were the only records.

125. Northern Parula Parula americana
1 in Soroa on 06/03, 3 in Soroa on 07/03, 2 in Sopillar on 09/03, 1 at Playa Ancon on 12/03, 4 in La Belen NP on 14/03, 1 on Cayo Coco on 15/03, 2 on Cayo Guillermo on 15/03 and 5 on Cayo Coco on 16/03.

126. Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Recorded as follows, 11 at Playa Ancon on 13/03, 2 on Cayo Guillermo on 15/03 and 1 on Cayo Coco on 16/03.

127. Magnolia Warbler Dendroica magnolia
1 in Sopillar on 10/03, 2 at Playa Ancon on 12/03, 4 at Playa Ancon on 13/03 were the only records.

128. Black-throated Blue Warbler Dendroica caerulescens
Quite common and usually seen in one or two's with the exception of 4 in La Belen NP on 14/03.

129. Yellow-rumped Warbler Dendroica coronata
3 at Playa Ancon on 13/03, 1 on Cayo Coco on 16/03 were the only records.

130. Cape May Warbler Dendroica tigrina
2 birds were seen near Varadero on 20/03, these were the only birds recorded.

131. Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
Small numbers seen in Soroa and in the Zapata area.

132. Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica
1 in Playa Larga on 08/03 was the only record.

133. Olive-capped Warbler Dendroica pityophila
2 to 3 in La Guira NP on 07/03 were the only records.

134. Prairie Warbler Dendroica discolor
1 in Sopillar on 10/03, 25 at Playa Ancon on 12/03, 6 at Playa Ancon on 13/03, 5 on Cayo Coco on 16/03 and 2 near Moron on 16/03.

135. Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
1 in La Guira NP on 07/03 was the only record.

136. Palm Warbler Dendroica palmarum
Common throughout with small numbers just about everywhere, occasionally seen in good numbers such as 20 in Sopillar on 09/03, 30 at Playa Ancon on 12/03 and 25 at Playa Ancon on 13/03.

137. Black-and-White Warbler Mniotilta varia
Common and seen throughout Cuba in small numbers, with 4 in Sopillar on 10/03 our best count.

138. American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
Common and seen throughout Cuba in small numbers, with 5 at Playa Ancon on 12/03 our best count.

139. Worm-eating Warbler Helmitheros vermivorus
1 in Soroa on 07/03, 1 in Sopillar on 10/03 were the only records.

140. Swainson's Warbler Limnnothylpis swainsonii
One was seen on the Mirador Trail, Soroa on 06/03, while next morning it or another was seen a little further up the Mirador on 07/03. These were the only records.

141. Ovenbird Seiurus aurocapillus
Common and seen throughout Cuba in small numbers, with 6 in Soroa on 07/03 our best count.

142. Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis
Common and seen throughout Cuba in small numbers.

143. Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
1 in Soroa on 07/03 and 08/03 were our only records.

144. Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Common and usually seen in one's or two's but 15 at Playa Ancon on 13/03 was by far the most seen in any one day or at any one site.

145. Yellow-headed Warbler Teretistris fernandinae
Recorded as follows, 6 in Soroa on 07/03, 4 in Soroa on 08/03, 2 in Sopillar on 09/03, 8 in Sopillar on 09/03, 15 at Playa Ancon on 12/03 and 3 in the Ordenas area of the Zapata area on 18/03.

146. Oriente Warbler Teretistris fornsi
3 on Cayo Coco on 15/03 and 10 on Cayo Coco on 16/03 were the only records.

147. Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus
12 in La Guira NP on 07/03, 8 in Soroa on 08/03 were our peak counts.

148. Western Stripe-headed Tanager Spindalis zena
Common and seen throughout Cuba in small numbers.

149. Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
1 in Palpite on 09/03, 1 in Palpite on 10/03 and 2 in La Belen NP on 14/03 were the only records.

150. Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus
1 in Soroa on 08/03 was the only one seen.

151. Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
At least 1 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

152. Cuban Grassquit Tiaris canora
We had excellent views of five birds in La Belen NP on 14/03, these were our only record of this beautiful endemic.

153. Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

154. Cuban Bullfinch Melopyrrha nigra
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

155. Zapata (Cuban) Sparrow Torreornis
A single bird was seen well but briefly on the Flamingo beach track on Cayo Coco on 15/03, this was our only sighting during our trip. This species is listed as Endangered in Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International (2000).

156. Red-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius assimilis
A male & female were seen in the Cienfuegos area of Cienaga de Zapata on 18/03, another male & female were seen at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03, and another one was heard in this area also on 19/03.

157. Tawny-shouldered Blackbird Agelaius humeralis
Seen in small numbers at all sites visited with at least 10 at the Crocodile Farm on 11/03 the largest group seen.

158. Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna
Coming back from the Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 we managed to see at least three on open country and heard at least three more at least four sites. This Cuban race of this species has been considered a separate species, Cuban Meadowlark Sturnella hippocrepis.

159. Cuban Blackbird Dives atroviolacea
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

160. Greater Antillean Grackle Quiscalus niger
Common and seen throughout Cuba.

161. Black-cowled Oriole Icterus dominicensis
1 in Soroa on 07/03, 2 at the Crocodile Farm on 11/03 and 1 in La Belen NP on 14/03 were our only records.

162. Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
1 at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03 was the only record.

163. House Sparrow Passer domesticus
See at most settled areas visited.

164. Chestnut Mannikin Lonchura malacca
At least 250 were seen at Estacion Ecologica Amarillas, Cienaga de Zapata on 19/03.

 

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