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| A Report from birdtours.co.uk |
Northern Ecuador 18th April - 4th May 2003,
This report covers a two week birding trip to Northern Ecuador. The main sites visited were Tandayapa Lodge (which was used as a base for various sites in the Mindo area, as well as Pedro Vicente Maldonado and Los Bancos), Yuturi Lodge, Yarina Lodge and Yanacocha.
I felt that the trip was a success, although slightly more species might have been expected on the Yuturi/Yarina section, and on three days valuable early morning birding time was lost while attempting to visit Yanacocha from Tandayapa (twice foiled by landslides and once by getting seriously bogged down in mud and having to turn back) - eventually this site was visited out of Quito, from where access is less vulnerable to the effects of heavy rain.
My visit was towards the end of the rainy season, not the optimum time to visit the country, although the rain didn't really affect the birding too much, generally being confined to the afternoon or evening while at Tandayapa, and with hardly any rain at Yuturi until the boat journey to Yarina when it rained torrentially for several hours.
Flights, Ground Arrangements and Costs
I flew to Quito with Continental from Manchester via Newark (New Jersey) and Bogota (Columbia). The flights, booked through Wildwings (www.wildwings.co.uk) were expensive at £676, but this was largely because I wanted to fly out on Good Friday. It should normally be possible to get flights for at least £100 less than this.
The flights were on the whole punctual and hassle-free, although I was dismayed to note that Continental no longer provide complimentary alcohol on any of their flights!
The check in procedure at Quito airport was one of the most rigorous I have ever encountered, with everyone having to open all their bags and multiple metal detectors. Also there is a $25 (all dollar values quoted in this report are US, the currency used in Ecuador) departure tax to be paid in cash.
The ground arrangements for my trip were made for me by Cristina Cervantes of Tropical Birding (see www.tropicalbirding.com , www.tandayapa.com). This included hotel accommodation in Quito (4 nights at $30 per night), transport to Tandayapa Lodge via the White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant site on the edge of Quito ($60), accommodation at Tandayapa in a shared room for 8 nights ($488), 5 days of guiding by Nick Athanas ($735), transport back to Quito ($40), return flight Quito-Lago Agrio ($120), and a 5 day/4 night package at Yuturi with their bird guide (which was actually 3 nights at Yuturi and 1 at Yarina - more about this later) ($425), and then finally another day with Nick visiting Yanacocha from Quito ($163).
This came to $2151 in total. All but the hotel in Quito is paid to Tropical Birding, and they require a payment of 50% of your trip ca 1 month before departure. This is to be paid in to their account in Ecuador through a bank in Miami, and from the UK the transfer will cost either £9 or £15 depending on whether you use World Pay or Priority Payment. I believe you can also make the payment via Wildwings.
After this the only other expenses were the occasional beer, a few dollars entrance fee to some sites, taxis to and from the airport ($5 - 6 per journey) and meals while in Quito.
Sites visited
Since all the sites visited on this trip are well known, I will not waste too much time repeating information contained in other places, and provide just a brief description of each place.
For detailed information on logistics etc. I would point you in the direction of the excellent reports by Frank Rheindt and Gruff Dodd, both for 2001.
Tandayapa Lodge
This superb Lodge, situated in cloud forest on the western slope of the Andes, about 1.5 hrs drive from Quito, is an absolute must for any visiting birder, and makes an excellent base for visiting a number of other sites in the area.
The hummingbird feeders are world-renowned, and there are a number of excellent trails starting from the Lodge, on which a number of scarce and difficult species can be seen. The accommodation at the Lodge is very comfortable and the food is good and plentiful.
I had arranged to have a guide for 5 days of my stay at Tandayapa, and was very fortunate to get Nick Athanas. Nick is a brilliant birder with an intimate knowledge of all the sites around Tandayapa, and great company too. Nick has a 4WD, which is pretty much essential to visit most sites.
Sites visited while staying at Tandayapa:
Tandayapa Valley
This includes the area around Tandayapa village itself, as well as along the old road going up past Bella Vista towards Mindo. Some of the best birds of the trip were seen in the upper Tandayapa valley.
Los Bancos
Two sites were visited in the vicinity of the town of San Miguel de Los Bancos; the site generally referred to as 'Los Bancos' where Ochre-breasted, Moss-backed Tanager etc. can be seen, and the site referred to as 'km 106.5' or 'Four Rivers' which is a privately owned patch of remnant forest.
Mindo
Some time was spent birding the road between Mindo and the new main road, also the Hummingbird Restaurant and the feeders at Mindo Lindo.
Pedro Vicente Maldonado
A day was spent visiting the sole remaining patch of lowland forest near PVM. It is still possible to have a great day's birding here, as I did, but the tiny bit of forest left is being continually degraded by the removal of the biggest trees, so it would seem to be only a matter of time before the site is effectively destroyed once and for all.
This Lodge is situated on a tributary of the Rio Napo, some 6 hrs downstream from the town of Coca. The lowland tropical rainforest habitat is superb, it is excellent for birds, and considerably cheaper than Sacha and La Selva. I enjoyed my stay here, although with hindsight it would have been worth paying the extra to stay at Sacha or La Selva, and if I went back that is what I would do.
A few points worth bearing in mind about Yuturi:
Also on this subject, I thought it was rather poor to have to pay $10 / day extra for a bird guide for 5 days, when you only get 2.5 days.
Also there is currently no canopy tower at Yuturi.
In fairness at the moment it is certainly not practical to spend all 4 nights at Yuturi, because the coach from Coca to Lago Agrio leaves Coca at 9.30. This would mean having to leave Yuturi at approx 2am!
I also thought that it would be worthwhile to spend a morning at Yarina, because it has a canopy tower, but in reality the amount of time that you actually get to spend up the tower is a joke, about 1 hr.
I hope the above has not given an unduly negative impression of Yuturi. As I said, I enjoyed my stay here and I saw some excellent birds and mammals (including Ocelot!), but the points mentioned above definitely warrant consideration before deciding whether to stay here or at one of the more expensive Lodges.
Yanacocha
This excellent site is located on the slopes of Volcan Pichincha, just to the west of Quito. Its chief claim to fame is that it is the only place in the world where one of the world's rarest hummingbirds, the endangered Black-breasted Puffleg can be seen, but it is also good for a range of higher altitude (3500m+) species. The scenery here is impressive and was probably the best of the whole trip.
N.B. It was originally my intention to visit this site from Tandayapa, and use the last day of my trip to visit Papallacta Pass to the east of Quito. As mentioned above, it was not possible to get access from Tandayapa, so a decision had to be made between Yanacocha and Papallacta on the last day. The chief attraction of Papallacta for me was Giant Conebill (the Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes at the radio masts are the main reason most people go but I had already seen this species in Chile), which I was disappointed not to see while in Ecuador, but I think that the range of species seen at Yanacocha was better than would have been seen at Papallacta (and included both the Puffleg and the incredible Sword-billed Hummingbird).
Also the weather at Papallacta is notoriously bad, while we had glorious sunshine for much of the day at Yanacocha.
Acknowledgements
I'd like to thank Cristina Cervantes for making all the arrangements for my trip, Trevor Ellery and Jose Illanes for making my stay at Tandayapa so enjoyable, Merdado Grefa for the guiding at Yuturi, and especially Nick Athanas whose sterling efforts hugely added to my enjoyment of the trip. Thanks also to Nick for checking over my list of species at the end of this report.
Daily Diary
18th April Arrived at Quito just after 22:00, caught a taxi ($6 using one of the kiosks just outside the airport to minimize hassle) to the clean and pleasant Hostal Fuente de Piedre 1.
19th April Picked up by Tandayapa Lodge driver at 06:00, drove to the White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant site on the edge of Quito, arriving at 06:30 in thick fog. Stayed until 07:20 by which time the fog had cleared, but unfortunately dipped on the Shrike-Tyrant.
Then drove to Tandayapa Lodge, arriving 08.15. Drank coffee (the coffee at Tandayapa is excellent!) and watched the hummingbird feeders until 10.00. Then walked the Potoo Trail from 10:00 - 12:00, seeing remarkably little.
Took a long lunch from 12:00 - 14:00, by which time it had started raining. I birded round the Lodge from 16:00 - 18:40 (it stopped raining at 17:00), walking to the covered platform, then a short way along the Tanager Trail, then down to the entrance and back.
Just before dinner, Nick Athanas and Trevor Ellery arrived at the Lodge. Had dinner with Nick and discussed plans for the next five days. Early to bed.
20th April Up at 04:30 and left the Lodge at 05:15 for the drive to Yanacocha. After driving for ca 50 mins a landslide was blocking the road. We waited for a while, doing a bit of roadside birding, but by 06:50 there was no sign of any earth-moving equipment, so we headed back to Tandayapa, arriving 07:30. For the rest of the morning we walked the Tandayapa trails, following the Potoo Trail, some of the Antpitta Trail and some of the Nunbird Trail.
Had lunch from 12:30 - 14:55, then drove down the valley, stopping at various points to bird by the roadside. Light rain for much of the afternoon. Back at the Lodge by 17:10, then out along the Potoo Trail from 18:00 - 18:50 looking for Rufescent Screech Owl (unsuccessfully).
21st April Up at 05:00, left the Lodge at 05:30, arriving at Los Bancos at ca 06:30 in light rain, which fortunately didn't last long. Birded by the roadside here until ca 09:00. We then drove to the forest patch at km106.5 (also known as "Four Rivers"), via the town of Los Bancos, where I picked up a very fetching waterproof poncho ($8) and a torch ($2), having inexplicably decided to omit these items from my packing. The forest patch at Four Rivers is privately owned and there is a $5 entry fee to be paid to the owner. This was a very productive spot and we stayed here until 14:30, when we left to drive to the town of Mindo. 15:15 - 15:35 at the Hummingbird Restaurant, where several new hummers presented themselves, then we birded the road between Mindo and the new main road until 17:05 and drove back to Tandayapa in the rain.
22nd April Up at 04.45, left the Lodge at 05.15 intending to visit Yanacocha again. However once again we were foiled by a landslide, this time before even getting out of the Lodge gates! In the drizzle we decided to wait for assistance and went back to the Lodge, then walked to the hide at which a Moustached Antpitta sometimes comes to feed just after dawn. However the heavy rain during the night had also resulted in a power cut (probably caused by another landslide elsewhere), so the light that normally attracts moths-and birds-wasn't working and we saw nothing.
Eventually we cleared the landslide and got out at 07.00, driving up the valley past Bella Vista Lodge. The weather was pretty good in the morning and I even got a bit sunburnt. We birded the road until early pm when something in the suspension of Nick's car went and we headed (carefully!) back to the Lodge, arriving 14.50.
It then rained for much of the rest of the afternoon - some birding was done from the covered platform from 16.10-17.10.
23rd April Up at 04.30, left the Lodge at 05.00 with Nick and Fabian (our driver for the next two days) for another crack at Yanacocha. We made it further than yesterday but got totally bogged down in a patch of mud near a worksite for a pipeline. We got pushed out by the workmen when they arrived at 06.00, but Fabian was unwilling to go any further in his 2WD vehicle so, making the best of the situation, we drove back to the Tandayapa Valley and birded the road past Bella Vista once again, but this time going right to the end where it meets the "new" road to Mindo, arriving there at about 13.10. A number of different species to yesterday were seen.
From 13.20-14.30 we relaxed at the Hummingbird Feeders at Mindo Lindo ($5 including coffee - just Nescafe), then birded the road above Mindo from 14.40-16.10 in light rain.
Arrived back at the Lodge at 17.00.
24th April Breakfast at 04.30, left the Lodge at 05.00 to drive to Pedro Vicente Maldonado (PVM), arriving 06.30. Fabian's driving included one or two pretty interesting overtaking manoeuvres, but we made it to PVM in one piece, and had an excellent day's birding in the trashed forest, and various other spots in the surrounding area.
This was the hottest and sunniest day so far with no rain until we left at 15.10.
This was my last day at Tandayapa with Nick.
25th April Up at 05.45 (a lie in) and to the hide by 06.00. I stayed here for half an hour, after which time I was fairly confident that the Moustached Antpitta wasn't going to show, then went to the canopy platform, where I stayed until 08.50, and then had breakfast back at the Lodge.
For the rest of the morning I walked the Potoo Trail, the whole of the Antpitta Trail and the start of the Nunbird Trail.
It rained for much of the afternoon but seemed to have cleared up by 16.10 so I went out with Jose, one of the other guides who had just arrived back at the Lodge today, to look for Lyre-tailed Nightjars in the Valley. We had not got far past the village when a torrential downpour started, so we hurried back to the village and sheltered under the overhang of the village shop. Jose chatted to the elderly woman owner of the shop, while I watched some young chickens feeding on some quite unsavoury things! After about 45 mins the rain stopped so we tried again. We walked a little past the nightjar site, then back to there for dusk.
It rained heavily during the night.
26th April Up at 05.55 and out of the Lodge five minutes later. I walked the Potoo Trail and the whole of the Antpitta Trail. Mostly it was very quiet although there was a mixed flock where the Antpitta Trail rejoins the Potoo Trail. I arrived back at the Lodge for breakfast at 09.00.
It took me a while to get going again after breakfast (the temptation to simply sit and watch the hummingbird feeders and drink coffee being too strong), but from 11.15 to 13.00 I walked up the Zig Zag Trail to nearly the top and then back down to the Lodge.
From 15.10 to 16.00 I walked out to the hide and back, then at 16.40, after watching the hummingbird feeders, I walked down through the village and about half a mile further towards the main road, arriving back at the Lodge for 17.55.
There was little rain today.
27th April Up at 05.55 and out at 06.10 after setting off the Lodge burglar alarm, which provided a couple of minutes entertainment. I walked the Potoo Trail and the whole of the Antpitta Trail again, arriving back at 09.00 for breakfast.
Breakfast was interrupted by a dash up the Potoo Trail to look for a Scaled Antpitta that Jose had seen feeding a chick a little earlier, but alas they were nowhere to be seen.
For the rest of the morning I had a last walk down to the entrance and up the road towards Bella Vista a short way, but the intense heat and very slow birding caused me to give up and return to the Lodge.
From 14.00 to 15.50 I travelled back to Quito with the Tandayapa driver and Trevor, who needed a lift. From about 16.00 to 18.30 I went to an internet café ($1.78 for 2.5 hours) to email friends and family.
To my disappointment I got back to the Hostal Fuente de Piedre to discover that their restaurant wasn't open on a Sunday evening and the nearest restaurant open was about nine blocks away, so I just bought a couple of pastries and a bottle of coke from a bakery at the end of the road and went to bed early.
28th April Mainly a travel day today, although a few birds were seen while in transit, particularly along the Rio Napo.
I got up at 06.30 had breakfast, then took a taxi to the airport at 07.30, the journey taking about half an hour in the Quito morning traffic. There I was given my plane ticket by the Yuturi representative. Flew to Lago Agrio 09.50 to 10.20. Then after claiming my bags, took the airline bus to Coca 11.10 to 13.00, arriving at Coca in heavy rain.
Was met by the Yuturi representative from the bus, and taken to the Hotel Oasis where I was given a pair of Wellington boots (essential for Yuturi!), and then taken by motorized canoe to Yuturi, arriving at ca 18.00. The journey along the Rio Napo was very pleasant and mostly in fine weather. I was required to show my passport at the village of Panacocha.
On arriving at Yuturi I was introduced to Merdado Grefa, who would be guiding me for the next two-and-a-half days.
With there being nothing to do at Yuturi Lodge after dusk (and no electricity after about 8pm if memory serves me correctly), and aware that tomorrow would be a long day, I crawled under the mosquito net soon after finishing my dinner.
29th April Up at about 05.30, Merdado and I left the Lodge about half an hour later, slowly boating to the start of the Manduro Trail, where we arrived at about 08.30.
We had only been walking for about 5 minutes or so when, while we stood at the edge of a small clearing, an Ocelot casually wandered out of the forest, paused for a few seconds in the clearing, then slunk off back into the undergrowth - a memorable moment indeed.
The Manduro Trail was pretty birdy, and we spent the next 6 hrs along it. Apart from some excellent birds, other highlights included at least 5 beautiful Golden-mantled Tamarins, 3 Capuchin Monkeys and being momentarily surrounded by a foraging group of coatis, until they realised we were there and scarpered.
We then boated slowly back to Yuturi Lodge. A highlight of this journey was a good view of a Sloth (presumably the diurnal Three-toed species) climbing, with an almost painful lack of speed, along the branch of a large tree next to the river.
Had a (warm) beer with Merdado and birded around the Lodge until dusk.
30th April Up at 05.30, leaving the Lodge at 05.45 to boat to the start of the Limon Trail. From 07.30 to 15.30, a very tiring walk along the Limon Trail and some seemingly uncharted territory. Shortly after the start of the Limon Trail there is an area where you have to walk along some very slippery logs, interspersed with areas of very careful wading to avoid putting your foot in a hole approximately as deep as the earth's core. Needless to say this was where I ended up with two boots full of water. Sensing that I had not enjoyed this section of the trail, Merdado said we would take an alternative route back. Unfortunately this involved another patch of water that was even worse, as well as having to machete our way through a few kms of dense shrubbery. There were still some good birds to be seen, but overall I felt that the frankly ridiculous choice of route cost me quite a few species.
Arrived back at the boat absolutely exhausted and dripping with sweat, having perspired more than any day I can recall in the intense humidity.
Slowly boated back to the Lodge.
Watched the sun set over the lagoon as I was waiting for dinner.
1st May Up at 05.30, leaving the Lodge some 20 minutes later then birding by boat for the next-hour-and a-half. We left the boat (Merdado would presumably collect it some other time), walking a trail that led right to the bank of the Rio Napo, then walking back to Yuturi Lodge through a small village.
After quickly packing my things and having a very early lunch, I left to travel to Yarina Lodge at 11.00, the journey taking nearly 6 hrs upriver. It rained torrentially during the first half of the journey and I was very glad I had my waterproof poncho!
A little birding was done around Yarina Lodge before dinner and a few beers with a very friendly Swedish couple.
2nd May Up at 05.30 to walk to the Yarina Lodge Canopy Tower. Spent from 06.00 to 07.00 up the tower (nowhere near long enough and little was seen), then back for a quick shower and breakfast, leaving Yarina for the one hour journey to Coca at 08.00. The Volcan Sumaco, about 50 miles west of Coca, could be seen rising up out of the otherwise totally flat horizon - quite an incongruous sight.
At the Hotel Oasis I was given my plane ticket and driven to Coca airport, where the Icaro airlines bus departed for Lago Agrio, taking about two hours.
The flight was delayed for an hour, finally taking off at 13.15 and arriving back in Quito half an hour later. The flight was extremely turbulent and I was glad to have both feet back on the ground.
I took a taxi back to the Hostal Fuente de Piedre, and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. I dined at the Hong King Chinese restaurant across the road from the Hostal (I ate here the following night also and had a badly upset stomach for about a week afterwards).
3rd May Nick picked me up at 05.30, and we headed to Yanacocha for the whole day. In the morning we birded the trail along to the hummingbird feeders. In the afternoon we drove up to the polylepis forest ca 6km from the entrance. The weather was fine all day and there were some good views of Quito and the surrounding mountains.
The birding was absolutely superb and it proved to be a fitting end to a great trip.
4th May Up at 04.00, left the Hostal at 04.30, arriving at the airport 20 minutes later. After a very lengthy check in, my flight to Newark via Bogota left at 08.00, arriving at 17.12 (local time).
The flight from Newark to Manchester departed nearly an hour late at 21.30, arriving back in Manchester at 08.10 the next morning.
I was fortunate enough to have a window seat on the right hand side of the plane, and had brilliant views of Manhattan as the plane took of from Newark, banked round and flew almost right over the island.
Systematic List Of Birds Seen
The order and taxonomy of this list follows Ridgely and Greenfield (2001)
Curve-billed Tinamou Nothoprocta curvirostris
One flushed from the road at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
2 seen on two dates while at Yuturi.
Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
Just one seen, from the boat between the Rio Napo and Yuturi Lodge on 28th
April.
Striated Heron Butorides striatus
1 seen daily by Yuturi Lodge.
Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Several seen along the Rio Napo on the way to Yuturi Lodge, and 1 from Yarina
canopy tower on 2nd May.
Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius
1 imm seen early in the morning near Yuturi Lodge on 29th April
was a pleasant surprise.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Seen on several occasions in open habitat.
Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi
1 near Yuturi Lodge and 1 along the Rio Napo on 1st May.
Great Egret Ardea alba
2 seen on the Rio Napo while travelling to Yuturi Lodge.
King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa
3 circling over Yuturi Lodge itself in the late afternoon on 30th
April. Excellent.
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes
melambrotus
The commonest vulture in the Yuturi and Rio Napo area.
Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Generally common in most locations.
Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
As above.
Osprey Pandion haliaetus
1 seen on the large square lagoon near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus
2 at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April, 1 at Four Rivers on 21st
April, 1 near Mindo on 23rd April, may also have been seen at Yuturi
and not noted.
White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus
1 seen from the plane at Bogota airport on 4th May.
Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus
1 at Pedro Vicente Maldonado (PVM) on 24th April.
Gray-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Slate-coloured Hawk Leucopternis schistacea
1 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Variable Hawk Buteo polyosoma
At least 2 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Roadside Hawk B. magnirostris
Seen regularly at Tandayapa Lodge and sites in that area.
White-rumped Hawk B. leucorrhous
1 near Mindo on 23rd April.
Black-and-Chestnut Eagle Oroaetus isidori
This very impressive eagle was seen at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th,
26th and 27th April.
Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus
1 seen along the road above Mindo on 21st April was a real surprise,
being considerably higher than this species is normally recorded.
Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis
1 seen perched near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima
At least 1 along Rio Napo near Coca on 28th April.
Carunculated Caracara Phalcoboenus carunculatus
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd April.
Laughing Falcon Herpetheres cachinnans
Just 1 seen at PVM on 24th April.
Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis
1 at PVM on 24th April, 4 along Rio Napo on 28th April,
and 2 at Yuturi on 29th April. An attractive little falcon.
American Kestrel F. sparverius
2 at the White-tailed Shrike-Tyrant site on the edge of Quito on 19th
April.
Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu
1 along Manduro Trail on 29th April.
Andean Guan P. montagnii
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata
2 from boat near Yuturi Lodge on 30th April.
Common Piping-Guan Pipile pipile
1 from boat near Yuturi Lodge on 30th April.
Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii
At Tandayapa Lodge, 3 on 20th April, 1 on 25th April
and 3 on 26th April.
Sunbittern Eurypyga helias
Superb views of 1 on the lagoon at Yarina Lodge on 1st May.
Sungrebe Heliornis fulica
2-3 from boat near start of Manduro Trail on 29th April, then 1
flying alongside the boat in heavy rain as I was leaving Yuturi on 1st
May.
Gray-winged Trumpeter Psophia crepitans
1 seen briefly on the Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th April, and
2 seen briefly on the Limon Trail on 30th April. Excellent.
Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus
1 along the Rio Napo on 28th April, and 2 there on 2nd
May.
Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
1 along the Rio Napo on 1st May.
Yellow-billed Tern Sterna superciliaris
2 along the Rio Napo on 1st May.
Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
1 along the Rio Napo on 2nd May.
Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata
Commonly seen in flocks over the Tandayapa Valley.
Plumbeous Pigeon C. plumbea
1 near Bella Vista on 22nd April, and seen on a couple of occasions
from the Canopy Platform at Tandayapa Lodge.
Ruddy Pigeon C. subvinacea
1 near Mindo on 21st April, 1 at PVM on 24th April.
Dusky Pigeon C. goodsoni
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Pale-vented Pigeon C. cayennensis
Several seen daily while at Yuturi.
White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata
1 seen well at Tandayapa Lodge on 26th April. I flushed it as I
was leaving the area of the hide. It then flew up into a tree and was watched
for several minutes. It often flicked its rear end in the manner of a rail.
The face pattern, although distinctive, took several looks to discern properly.
Probably seen in the same area the previous day but only brief flight views.
Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata
Common around Quito.
Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerine
Several at the WTST site on 19th April.
White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
1-2 seen most days at Tandayapa Lodge around the Lodge itself.
Gray-fronted Dove L. rufaxilla
1 seen along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa
5 seen from the boat near the start of the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th
April.
Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata
7 seen from the boat near the start of the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th
April.
Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera
Fairly common at Yuturi.
Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura
10+ at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Black-headed Parrot Pionites melanocephala
1 seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April.
Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus
10+ at PVM on 24th April.
Red-billed Parrot P. sordidus
Several flocks totalling 19 birds seen over the Tandayapa Valley on 26th
April.
Bronze-winged Parrot P. chalcopterus
3+ at Los Bancos on 21st April, ca. 15 at PVM on 24th
April.
Orange-winged Amazon Amazona amazonica
2 from the boat near Yuturi on 30th April.
Mealy Amazon A. farinose
2 from the boat at Yuturi on 30th April, and 1 on 1st
May.
Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta
1 along road above Mindo.
Squirrel Cuckoo P. cayana
1 near Bella Vista on 22nd April, 1 at PVM on 24th April.
Black-bellied Cuckoo P. melanogaster
1 from boat at Yuturi on 1st April.
Greater Ani Crotophaga major
Common and vocal at Yuturi.
Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani
10+ at Los Bancos on 21st April. Possibly seen elsewhere and not
noted.
Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April - excellent.
Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin
10-15 always around Yuturi Lodge, wheezing asthmatically.
Tawny-bellied Screech Owl Otus watsonii
Good views of 1 from the boat at Yuturi on 1st May.
Long-tailed Potoo Nyctibius aethereus
1 roosting in forest near Yuturi on 1st May - excellent.
Common Potoo N. griseus
2 seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April.
Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra
1 male seen incredibly well in the Tandayapa Valley at dusk on the 25th
April.
After hearing the call, Jose played the minidisk, which initially did not
seem to be doing much. The bird made a few short flights, which were definitely
tickable views, but the best was yet to come. Probably as a result of the
tape, the bird settled in a tree next to the road, allowing us amazing views
down to 3-4 m. The tail on this bird is truly extraordinary!
This species vied with Ocellated Tapaculo for Bird of the Trip.
Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris
1 at Potoo Trail at Tandayapa Lodge at dusk on 20th April - heard
on other occasions too.
Sand-coloured Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris
Just 1 seen in the early morning near Yuturi Lodge on 30th April.
Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
2 seen from the boat on all three mornings at Yuturi, often giving excellent
views.
White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
Seen most days, in various habitats.
Chestnut-collared Swift Cypseloides rutilus
2 near Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Gray-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris
Fairly common at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Short-tailed Swift C. brachyura
Fairly common at Yuturi and around.
Neotropical Palm-Swift Tachornis squamata
Seen mostly in the evenings around Yuturi Lodge itself.
White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui
1 at Four Rivers and 1 at the Hummingbird Restaurant on 21st April.
Smart.
Tawny-bellied Hermit P. syrmatophorus
Fairly common in the forest at Tandayapa Lodge .
Great-billed Hermit P. malaris
1 Manduro Trail on 29th April, and 2 along the Limon Trail on 30th
April.
Wedge-billed Hummingbird Schistes geoffroyi
1 along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April.
Purple-bibbed Whitetip Urosticte benjamini
Regular in small numbers at Tandayapa Lodge feeders, also seen at Mindo Lindo
on 23rd April. One of my favourite hummers.
Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicaee
Regular in small numbers at Tandayapa Lodge feeders.
Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys
2 near Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii
Impossible to miss at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders - very common.
Purple-throated Woodstar Calliphlox mitchelli
Common at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders.
White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant
1-2 at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders most days.
Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April and 1 at PVM on 24th April.
White-necked Jacobin Florisunga mellivora
5+ at the Hummingbird Restaurant, Mindo, on 21st April, 1 along
the Limon Trail on 30th April, and 1 near Yuturi Lodge on 1st
May. Very smart.
Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae
3+ at the Hummingbird Restaurant on 21st April, and 2+ at Mindo
Lindo on 23rd April.
Green Violetear C. thalassinus
Fairly common at Tandayapa Lodge.
Sparkling Violetear C. coruscans
Common and aggressive at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders, also seen at Yanacocha.
Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides
Fairly common at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders.
Empress Brilliant H. imperatrix
A regular visitor to the Tandayapa Lodge feeders in small numbers.
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl
Very common at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders, probably also seen at other places
and not noted.
Andean Emerald A. franciae
Common at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders.
Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone
2+ near the Rio Napo, while still at Yuturi on 1st May - an absolutely
stunning hummer.
Green-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania fannyi
1 male at the Hummingbird Restaurant at Mindo on 21st April, and
1 at PVM on 24th April - stunning.
Western Emerald Chlorostilba melanorhynchus
Common at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders.
Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis
3(+) at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus
3(+) at Yanacocha on 3rd May - an impressively large hummer.
Sword-billed Hummingbird Eusifera eusifera
1 came briefly to the feeders at Yanacocha on 3rd May. This bird
is simply preposterous and was my probably my favourite hummingbird seen on
the trip.
Brown Inca Coeligena coeligena
2 in the forest at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April.
Collared Inca C. torquata
1 near Bella Vista on 22nd April, 1 along the road between Bella
Vista and Mindo on 23rd April, and 1 at Yanacocha on 3rd
May.
Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis
Regular in small numbers at the Tandayapa Lodge feeders, and also seen at
Mindo Lindo on 23rd April. The males look absolutely stunning when
the light catches them in the right way.
Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneana flavescens
Quite common at the Tandayapa Lodge, also seen at Yanacocha on 3rd
May.
Velvet-purple Coronet B. jardini
5 at Mindo Lindo on 23rd April. Yet another stunner!
Black-breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis nigrivestis
1 male seen briefly at the feeders at Yanacocha on 3rd April.
Sapphire-vented Puffleg E. luciani
5+ at Yanacocha on 3rd April.
Golden-breasted Puffleg E. mosquera
5(+) at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina
2 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Rainbow-bearded Thornbill Chalcostigma herrani
1 male at Yanacocha on 3rd May - excellent views were had of this
rather subtle but very attractive hummer.
Gorgeted Sunangel Heliangelus strophianus
2-3 near Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Amazonian White-tailed Trogon Trogon viridis
1 male from boat near the start of the Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th
April.
Western White-tailed Trogon T. chionurus
1 female at PVM on 24th April.
Collared Trogon T. collaris
1 male at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Masked Trogon T. personatus
A pair seen frequently around Tandayapa Lodge itself, the male in particular
being very approachable. Also 2 males were seen along the road between Bella
Vista and Mindo on 23rd April.
Blue-crowned Trogon T. curucui
1 male near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May - excellent.
Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps
1 along the Antpitta Trail at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April and
1 from the platform on 25th April. Also 1 flew over the road between
Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd April.
Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata
1 between Tandayapa Lodge entrance and the village on 26th April,
and 1 at Yarina Lodge on 1st May.
Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona
1-3 seen each day while at at Yuturi.
Green Kingfisher C. americana
1-2 seen daily while at Yuturi.
Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii
2 (+ 1 heard) at Four Rivers on 21st April, and 1 at PVM on 24th
April.
Turquoise Jay Cyanolyca turcosa
Excellent views of 1 near Bella Vista on 23rd April.
Beautiful Jay C. pulchra
Excellent views of 2 in the Tandayapa Valley on 25th April.
Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus
Small numbers seen each day while at Yuturi.
White-eared Jacamar Galbalcyrhynchus leucotis
1 from the boat at Yuturi on 30th April.
Scarlet-crowned Barbet Capito aurovirens
A pair at Yuturi on 29th April.
Orange-fronted Barbet C. squamatus
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Red-headed Barbet Eubucco bourcierii
A pair in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April, a pair at Tandayapa
Lodge on 26th April and 3-4 there on 27th April.
Toucan Barbet Semnornis ramphastinus
2-3 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April.
Truly stunning.
Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons
1-4 seen daily while at Yuturi.
White-fronted Nunbird M. morphoeus
1 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Crimson-rumped Toucanet Anlacorhynchus haematopygus
1 in the Tandayapa Valley on 25th April.
Golden-collared Toucanet Selenidera reinwardtii
2 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April. Very nice when
seen well, which was rather difficult to do.
Pale-mandibled Aracari Pteroglossus erythropygius
ca 10 at PVM on 24th April.
Many-banded Aracari P. pluricinctus
Several seen daily at Yuturi and Yarina.
Lettered Aracari P. inscriptus
1 near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena laminirostris
Superb views of 2 near Bella Vista on 23rd April. This is a much
better looking bird than the illustration in Ridgely and Greenfield suggests,
and simply a riot of colour.
White-throated Toucan Ramphastos tucanus
Several seen each day at Yuturi, and 1 seen from the canopy tower at Yarina
on 2nd May.
Channel-billed Toucan R. vitellinus
2 seen from the boat near the start of the Limon Trail on 30th
April.
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan R. swainsonii
1+ near PVM on 24th April.
Chocó Toucan R. brevis
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii
1-2 at Tandayapa on 20th April, 1 near Bella Vista on 22nd
April, and 4 near Bella Vista on 23rd April.
Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elegans
1 along the Manduro Trail on 29th April and 1 near Yuturi Lodge
on 1st May.
Cream-coloured Woodpecker C. flavus
1 male and 2 females along the Manduro Trail on 29th April, and
a pair with two immatures watched from the boat as they fed on an ants nest
on 1st May. Simply a brilliant bird and surely one of the world's
best woodpeckers.
Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceous
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Spot-breasted Woodpecker Chrysoptilus punctigula
1 from the boat near Yuturi on 30th April, and 1 on 1st
April. Smart.
Red-rumped Woodpecker Veniliornis kirkii
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Smoky-brown Woodpecker V. fumigatus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Scarlet-backed Woodpecker V. callonotus
1 along the road above Mindo on 21st April.
Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani
6 at PVM on 24th April.
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker M. cruentatus
1 near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
2 at Four Rivers on 21st April, 1 at PVM on 24th April,
and superb views of 1 from the boat at Yuturi on 1st May.
Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos
1 from the boat between Yuturi Lodge and the start of the Limon Trail on 30th
April, and 1 on the way back on the same day.
Guayaquil Woodpecker C. gayaquilensis
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Powerful Woodpecker C. pollens
Superb views of a pair along the Antpitta Trail on 27th April was
one of the highlights of my stay at Tandayapa Lodge. The female looks quite
comical and somehow incomplete without any red on its head.
Brown-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus
pusillus
2 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Tyrannine Woodcreeper Dendrocincla tyrannina
1 along the Antpitta Trail at Tandayapa on 25th April.
Plain-brown Woodcreeper D. fuliginosa
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April, 2 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi
on 30th April, and 1 near Yuturi Lodge on 1st April.
Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus
guttatus
4 were seen while at Yuturi.
Spotted Woodcreeper X. erythropygius
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April and 1 along the road above Mindo
on 23rd April.
Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes
souleyetii
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Montane Woodcreeper L. lacrymiger
2 along the road above Bella Vista on 22nd and 23rd
April.
Long-billed Woodcreeper Nasica longirostris
As Ridgely and Greenfield say, a spectacular species, seen very well from
the boat at Yuturi on 29th April (1) and the 30th April
(2).
Azara's Spinetail Synallaxis azarae
3+ seen along the road between Tandayapa Valley and Bella Vista on 22nd
April, also heard and probably glimpsed at Tandayapa Lodge.
Slaty Spinetail S. brachyura
2 seen from the steps leading up to Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April.
Rufous Spinetail S. unirufa
1 near Bella Vista on 23rd April.
White-browed Spinetail Hellmayrea gularis
1 of these striking spinetails was seen at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops
1-2 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April, 2 at Los Bancos on 21st
April, and at least 1 along the road above Mindo on the same date.
Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd April. Quite nice for a canastero!
Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger
2 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd April. An
absolutely stunning species.
Rusty-winged Barbtail Premnornis guttuligera
1 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April.
Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens
1 seen along the Antpitta Trail at Tandayapa Lodge on 25th April.
Nice.
Plain Xenops Xenops minutes
2 at PVM on 24th April, and 1 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on
30th April.
Western Woodhaunter Hyloctistes virgatus
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris
1 at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April, and 1 along the road above
Mindo on 23rd April.
Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia
variegaticeps
1 at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April and 26th April.
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Antomolus rubiginosus
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Pacific Hornero Furnarius cinnamomeus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April and 4 at PVM on 24th April.
Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes johnsoni
1 along the road above Bella Vista on 22nd and 23rd
April.
Striped Treehunter Thripadectes holostictus
1 along the road above Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Streak-capped Treehunter T. virgaticeps
1 from the steps at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April.
Uniform Treehunter T. ignobilis
1 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd April.
Short-billed Leaftosser Sclerurus rufigularis
1 seen very well along the Limon Trail on 30th April.
White-shouldered Antshrike Thamnophilus
aethiops
Excellent views of a pair along the Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th
April, and 1 male near Yuturi on 1st May.
Uniform Antshrike T. unicolor
1 male along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th April.
Western Slaty-Antshrike T. atrinucha
1 male at Four Rivers on 21st April. Nice.
Cinereous Antshrike Thamnomanes caesius
1 along the Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th April.
Spot-crowned Antvireo Dysithamnus puncticeps
Excellent views of 1 at Four Rivers on 21st April. Superb.
Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longinpennis
A pair along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Slaty Antwren M. schisticolor
3+ along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th April, and 1 there
on 27th April.
White-flanked Antwren M. axillaris
1 male at PVM on 24th April.
Checker-throated Antwren M. fulviventris
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Plain-throated Antwren M. hauxwelli
Several seen daily at Yuturi.
Pacific Antwren M. pacifica
1 male at Los Bancos on 21st April and 1 at PVM on 24th
April. Nice, and somewhat reminiscent of Black-and-white Warbler.
Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudate
1 male along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th April - a stunner.
Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina
1 briefly at PVM on 24th April.
Esmereldas Antbird Myrmeciza nigricauda
1-2, excellent views at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Stub-tailed Antbird M. berlepschi
1 male, excellent views at PVM on 24th April.
Immaculate Antbird M. immaculata
Excellent views of 1 male along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th
April, and 1 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
White-plumed Antbird Pithys albifrons
1 of these spectacular antbirds was seen along the Manduro Trail at Yuturi
in 29th April.
Scale-backed Antbird Hylophylax poecilinota
1 male of this very smart antbird near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Reddish-winged Bare-eye Phlegopsis erythroptera
1 male near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May. A very striking antbird.
Striated Antthrush Chamaeza nobilis
1 seen well albeit briefly on path(!) while walking along the Manduro Trail
on 29th April was then flushed a couple of times.
Black-headed Antthrush Formicarius nigricapillus
Superb views of 1 at PVM on 24th April in response to tape playback.
Rufous-capped Antthrush F. colma
1 briefly and then 1 seen well along Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th
April.
Black-faced Antthrush F. analis
1 along the Manduro Trail on 29th April and 1 along the Limon Trail
on 30th April. Both were seen briefly.
Rufous-breasted Antthrush F. rufipectus
1 briefly along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th April in response
to tape playback, then 1 that I whistled in at the hide at Tandayapa, again
giving brief views. This species was heard much more often than it was seen.
Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis
1 seen extremely well in polylepis woodland at Yanacocha on 3rd
May. It was something of a relief to finally see an Antpitta, having heard
various other species during the trip.
Ocellated Tapaculo Acropternis orthonyx
1 seen astonishingly well close to the road between Bella Vista and Mindo
on 22nd April.
Nick pulled over after hearing it calling near to the road. We scrambled with some difficulty down to the area where it seemed to be and Nick started playing the minidisk of it's call. For about 10 minutes we could hear the bird calling close by but couldn't see it, and the sound didn't seem to be moving!
Then I spotted the bird with the naked eye. It was on a horizontal branch, ca 2m up and less than 10m away, and was so obvious we couldn't believe it had been there all along. Maybe it had just hopped up. We then enjoyed uninterrupted, unobscured views of the bird for the next quarter of an hour, in the end actually leaving it still on view! The bird itself was, as expected, totally stunning, and seemed quite unconcerned by our presence.
If anything the impression of how large it was was greater when viewed through the naked eye. Another could be heard calling further away.
Quite an incredible experience with easily the most hoped-for species on the trip. Also heard in the same area the following day, and 1 heard at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Ash-coloured Tapaculo Myornis senilis
1 seen well at Yanacocha on 3rd May in response to playback.
Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps
1 along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 20th April.
Sooty-headed Tyrannulet P. griseiceps
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet Camptostoma
obsoletum
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Brown-capped Tyrannulet Ornithion brunneicapillum
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola
1 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April.
Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April. Nice.
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous
1 along the Limon Trail on 30th April.
Streak-necked Flycatcher M. striaticollis
2 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April, 1 near Bella Vista on
22nd April, 1 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd.
Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Gray Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps
2 at PVM on 24th April.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
White-crested Elaenia E. albiceps
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum
chrysocotaphum
2 seen well from the canopy tower at Yarina on 2nd April. A delightful
little bird.
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher T. nigriceps
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Common Tody-Flycatcher T. cinereum
1 along the road above Mindo on 21st April.
Rufous-crowned Tody-Flycatcher
Poecilotriccus ruficeps
1 near Bella Vista on 23rd April responded to tape - absolutely
stunning views of a gorgeous bird. Another glimpsed briefly at Tandayapa Valley
on 26th April.
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus
pileatus
1 along the road above Mindo on 23rd April and 1 at PVM on 24th
April.
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis atricapillus
1 excellent views at Four Rivers on 21st April - this attractive
little flycatcher is one of the world's smallest birds.
Tufted Tit-Tyrant Anairetes parulus
2 at the WTST site on 19th April.
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobus sulphureipygius
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April. Quite nice.
Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
1 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April.
Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus
2 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April. Excellent.
White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophyrs
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
White-tailed Tyrannulet M. poecilocercus
1 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April, 3 in the same area
on 23rd April, and 1 along the Potoo Trail and 1 by the entrance
at Tandayapa Lodge on 27th April.
White-banded Tyrannulet M. stictopterus
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Eastern Wood-Pewee Contopus virens
1 along the Manduro Trail on 29th April.
Smoke-coloured Pewee C. fumigatus
Common in the Tandayapa Valley, maximum count ca 10 on 23rd April.
Flavescent Flycatcher Myiophobus flavicans
1 along the Potoo Trail on 20th April, 1 between Tandayapa Lodge
and Bella Vista on 23rd April.
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Crowned Chat-Tyrant O. frontalis
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant O. diadema
1 near Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
A pair in residence at Tandayapa Village.
Masked Water-Tyrant Fluvicola nengeta
1 at PVM on 24th April. Very smart bird.
Drab Water-Tyrant Ochthornis littoralis
2 near Yuturi Lodge and 7 along the Rio Napo on 1st May.
Cinnamon Attila Attila cinnamomeus
2 seen from the boat at Yuturi on 30th April, and 1 on 1st
May.
Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans
Good views of 1 along the Manduro Trail on 29th April, and others
heard while at Yuturi.
Olivaceous Piha Lathria cryptolophus
1 seen along the Antpitta Trail at Tandayapa several times, generally showing
very well.
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Eastern Sirystes Sirystes sibilator
1 from the boat at Yuturi on 30th April.
Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana
3(+) seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April.
Eastern Kingbird T. tyrannus
1-2 seen from the motorized canoe along the Rio Napo on 1st May
seemed rather late according to Ridgely and Greenfield.
Tropical Kingbird T. melancholicus
Very common and widespread in open areas.
Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculates
Fairly common at Yuturi.
Golden-crowned Flycatcher M. chryocephalus
Several seen at Tandayapa, particularly near to the Lodge itself.
Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua
1 of the western race 'chrysogaster' at PVM on 24th April,
and several of the nominate eastern race while at Yuturi.
Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Lesser Kiskadee Philhydor lictor
Common at Yuturi, most not separated.
Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April, 5+ at PVM on 24th April.
Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor
1 near Bella Vista on 22nd April.
Cinnamon Becard P. cinnamomeus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April and 1 at PVM on 24th April.
Nice.
Pink-throated Becard Platypsaris minor
2 along the Manduro Trail at Yuturi on 29th April.
Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
2 at PVM on 24th April.
Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristatus
1 in polylepis at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Plum-throated Cotinga C. maynana
1 male seen from the boat early in the morning near Yuturi Lodge on 30th
April. Nice.
Spangled Cotinga C. cayana
A male perched in a treetop from the Yarina Lodge canopy tower in the early
morning sunshine on 2nd May was a fine sight indeed. This must
be one of the most beautiful of all birds.
Green-and-Black Fruiteater Pipreola rieferii
2 near Bella Vista on 22nd April. Nice.
Barred Fruiteater P. arcuata
1 female seen well at Yanacocha on 3rd May. Stunning.
White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae
A pair seen from the boat near Yuturi on the afternoon of the 29th
April.
Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata
3-4 along the Manduro Trail on 29th April, of which 1 was seen
well.
Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruviana
A male (of the western race 'sanguinolenta') of this striking species
was scoped from the road between Tandayapa Lodge and Bella Vista on 23rd
April, and a female flew across the road between Bella Vista and Mindo later
on the same day.
Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus
1 from the boat on 29th April and 2 from the boat on 30th
April, while at Yuturi.
Blue-crowned Manakin Lepidothrix coronata
1 male along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus
2 males at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April (1 along Nunbird Trail,
1 along Potoo Trail).
White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus
2 females at PVM on 24th April.
Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera
Several seen along the Rio Napo on 28th April.
Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina
Fairly common at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Blue-and-white Swallow N. cyanoleuca
Common in the Tandayapa valley, probably seen elsewhere too.
White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer
3 seen near Coca along the Rio Napo on 28th April.
White-banded Swallow Attocora fasciata
5(+) of these beautiful hirundines along the Rio Napo on 28th April.
White-thighed Swallow Neochelidon tibialis
3+ at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx
ruficollis
Fairly common in the Tandayapa Valley.
Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus
1 seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April.
Band-backed Wren C. zonatus
1 at PVM on 24th April. Smart.
Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa
2 at Yanacocha on 3rd April.
Sepia-Brown Wren C. olivascens
1 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April.
Bay Wren Thryothorus nigricapillus
1 seen eventually at Four Rivers on 21st April, and 3 at PVM on
24th April.
House Wren Troglodytes aedon
Seen around Tandayapa Lodge and Yuturi Lodge.
Grass Wren Cistothorus platensis
1 seen well at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Gray-breasted Wood-wren Henicorhina leucophrys
3-5 seen along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa on 19th April, 2 there
on 20th April. Very attractive.
Southern Nightingale-Wren Microcerculus
marginatus
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April, and 1 at PVM on 24th
April. Excellent.
Gray-mantled Wren Odontorchilus branickii
1 at PVM on 24th April. Nice.
Black-capped Donacobius Donocobius atricapillus
1 near Yuturi Lodge on 1st May.
Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea
1 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April.
Slate-throated Gnatcatcher P. schistaceigula
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Tawny-faced Gnatwren Microbates cinereiventris
1 seen briefly at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys
2 at Los Bancos on 21st April, 1+ near Bella Vista on 22nd
April and 5+ along the road between Tandayapa and Mindo on 23rd
April.
Paramo Pipit Anthus bogotensis
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus
3 on river at Tandayapa Village on 20th April. Brilliant.
Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides
1 seen well along the road above Mindo on 23rd April, and 1-2 from
the canopy platform at Tandayapa Lodge on 25th April.
Great Thrush Turdus fuscater
2 seen by the road on first failed attempt at Yanacocha on 20th
April. 1-2 near Bella Vista on 22nd April. Very common indeed at
Yanacocha on 3rd May. Probably under-recorded.
Glossy-Black Thrush T. serranus
2 males and 1 female near Bella Vista on 23rd April.
Ecuadorian Thrush T. maculirostris
1 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April and 1 at Four Rivers on
21st April .
Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi
1-2 seen daily at Tandayapa Lodge, frequently being seen around the Lodge
itself. Also 2 seen along the road above Mindo on 23rd April.
Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca
This stunning Dendroica was recorded on a number of days: 1 in the
Tandayapa Valley on 20th April, 1 between Bella Vista and Mindo
and 1 at Tandayapa Lodge on 22nd April, 3 between Bella Vista and
Mindo on 23rd April.
Slate-throated Whitestart Myioborus
miniatus
Spectacled Whitestart M. melanocephalus
Commonly seen at Tandayapa Lodge and sites in the surrounding area.
Olive-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis semiflava
A pair at Los Bancos on 21st April. Song very reminiscent of Willow
Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus.
Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus
Fairly common along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo.
Three-striped Warbler B. tristriatus
Russet-crowned Warbler B. coronatus
Commonly seen at Tandayapa Lodge and sites in the surrounding area.
Chocó Warbler B. chlorophrys
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Bananaquit Coereba flaveola
1-2 seen regularly around the hummingbird feeders at Tandayapa. Lodge
Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Blue-backed Conebill C. sitticolor
4 at Yanacocha on 3rd May. Superb.
Capped Conebill C. albifrons
1 male and 1 female near Bella Vista on 22nd April. Nice.
Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossopis cyanea
1 male near Bella Vista on 23rd April (quite a number of others
were seen by Nick but I seemed to have inexplicable difficulty in getting
on to this species before it moved!).
Glossy Flowerpiercer D. lafresnayii
Common at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Black Flowerpiercer D. humeralis
Common at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
White-sided Flowerpiercer D. albilatera
Regularly seen around the hummingbird feeders at Tandayapa Lodge, also several
seen along the road between Tandayapa and Bella Vista and along the road above
Mindo.
Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April, 4 at PVM on 24th April
and 1 from the canopy tower at Yarina on 2nd May.
Scarlet-breasted Dacnis Dacnis berlepschi
Easily the highlight of the day at PVM (24th April) were the incredible
views of a stunning male, which responded to it's minidisk recording by coming
into some low scrub right by the road. This was the bird I most wanted to
see at this site, but I expected canopy views at best. Brilliant.
Blue Dacnis D. cayana
2 females were seen at PVM on 24th April.
Scarlet-thighed Dacnis D. venusta
1(pos +1) male at PVM on 24th April. Stunning.
Golden-rumped Euphonia Euphonia cyanocephala
1 male seen at the WTST site on the edge of Quito on 19th April.
Orange-bellied Euphonia E. xanthogaster
Commonly seen at Tandayapa Lodge and around.
Thick-billed Euphonia E. laniirostris
1(+) in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April.
Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis
1 male at Los Bancos on 21st April. Nice.
Emerald Tanager Tangara florida
1 at PVM. Nice.
Blue-necked Tanager T. cyanicollis
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April, also recorded at PVM.
Golden-hooded Tanager T. larvata
5+ at PVM on 24th April.
Gray-and-Gold Tanager T. palmeri
4(+) at PVM on 24th April.
Bay-headed Tanager T. gyrola
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April, common at PVM on 24th
April
Rufous-winged Tanager T. lavinia
1 male with an immature at PVM on 24th April - a stunner.
Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira
A pair at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Scarlet-and-White Tanager Erythrothlypis
salmoni
1 male at PVM on 24th April. Stunning.
Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota
1 male at Los Bancos on 21st April. Smart.
Rufous-throated Tanager Tangara rufigula
2 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Golden Tanager T. arthus
Common at Tandayapa Lodge and around, a near constant presence in mixed flocks.
Silver-throated Tanager T. icterocephala
2 at PVM on 24th April, and 2 along the road near the entrance
to Tandayapa Lodge on 27th April.
Flame-faced Tanager T. parzudakii
1 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd April.
Golden-naped Tanager T. ruficervix
1 along the road above Mindo on 23rd April.
Beryl-spangled Tanager T. nigroviridis
Rather common at Tandayapa and Mindo. With Golden Tanager this species seemed
to make up most of the mixed flocks encountered.
Blue-and Black Tanager T. vassorii
1-2 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd April, and 1 near the
top of the ZigZag Trail at Tandayapa Lodge on 26th April.
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus
igniventris
1 seen at Yanacocha on 3rd May - excellent.
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager A. somptuosus
Very common at Tandayapa Lodge and around.
Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager A. notabilis
1 between Bella Vista and Mindo on 23rd April.
Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis Montana
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Black-chested Mountain-Tanager B. eximia
2 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Moss-backed Tanager Bangsia edwardsi
1 at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata
1 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii
A stunning species, and one of my favourite tanagers - 4-5 along the road
between Tandayapa and Mindo on 22nd April, with 2 seen in the same
area the following day.
Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus
1 in the Tandayapa Valley on 20th April; 2 at Los Bancos on 21st
April; 1 at PVM on 24th April; 4 from the boat at Yuturi on 1st
May.
Palm Tanager T. palmarum
1 at PVM on 24th April.
Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis
1 male seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April and 2 on the
30th
Silver-beaked Tanager R. carbo
1 seen from the boat at Yuturi on 29th April, and 1 on 1st
May.
Lemon-rumped Tanager R. icteronotus
Rather common at Tandayapa and around, and at PVM.
Ochre-breasted Tanager Chlorothraupis stolzmanni
1 in song at Los Bancos on 21st April.
Dusky-faced Tanager Mitrospingus cassinii
1 at PVM on 24th April.
White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus
2 pairs at PVM on 24th April.
Tawny-crested Tanager T. delatrii
5+ seen at PVM on 24th April.
Dusky Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus semifuscus
This species proved to be rather common along the road between Bella Vista
and Mindo.
Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris
2(+?) at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Plushcap Catamblyrhynchus diadema
1 along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo on 22nd - lovely.
Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus
1 at Four Rivers on 21st April, ca 10 at PVM on 24th
April.
Black-winged Saltator S. atripennis
1 at PVM on 24th April and 1+ seen from the canopy platform at
Tandayapa on 25th April. A very smart bird.
Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis
Several seen daily while at Yuturi.
Southern Yellow-Grosbeak Pheucticus chrysogaster
1 male seen at the WTST site on 19th April, then no more until
2 at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Grassland Yellow-Finch Sicalis luteola
2 at the WTST site on 19th April.
Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvine
5+ along the road above Mindo on 21st April.
Yellow-bellied Seedeater S. nigricollis
3+ at Los Bancos on 21st April, and 2 near Tandayapa Village on
25th April.
Lesson's Seedeater S. bouvronides
A pair of these smart birds were seen in bushes just by Yuturi Lodge itself
on 29th April.
Dull-coloured Grassquit Tiaris obscura
1 along the road above Mindo on 21st April. A species that lives
up to its name.
Lesser Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis
1 male at PVM on 24th April.
Plain-coloured Seedeater Catamenia inornata
Common at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Band-tailed Seedeater C. analis
1 male at the WTST site on 19th April.
Rufous-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes latinuchus
5+ at Yanacocha on 3rd May.
Tricoloured Brush-Finch A. tricolour
2 at Los Bancos on 21st April, 1 between Bella Vista and Mindo
on 23rd April and 1 near the entrance on Tandayapa Lodge on 27th
April.
White-winged Brush-Finch A. leucopterus
1 at Tandayapa Lodge on 20th April, 3 along the road between Tandayapa
and Mindo on 23rd April, 1 from the canopy platform at Tandayapa
Lodge and 2 near Tandayapa Village on 25th April.
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Buarremon brunneinucha
1 near Tandayapa Village on 20th April, seen daily along the Tandayapa
Trails, often giving excellent views. The colours on this bird are quite beautiful
and the bird has far more character in real life than one would imagine from
Ridgely and Greenfield.
Stripe-headed Brush-Finch B. torquatus
2 at Yanacocha on 3rd May - excellent.
Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris
2 at Four Rivers on 21st April.
Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris
2 along the road above Mindo on 21st April, and 1 at PVM on 24th
April. Nice.
Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis
Common in most habitats.
Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela
Rather common at Yuturi.
Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus
At least one seen from the bus between Lago Agrio and Coca, and 5+ seen from
the boat along the Rio Napo on 28th April.
Russet-backed Oropendola P. angustifrons
Common and visible at Yuturi.
Green Oropendola P. viridus
1-2 along the Limon Trail at Yuturi on 30th April.
Oriole Blackbird Gymnomystax mexicanus
2 perched in a tree on the bank of the Rio Napo near the village of Panacocha
on 28th April. Very striking.
Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi
1 along the road above Mindo on 21st April.
Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis
4 in the town of Mindo on 21st of April.
Additional Species Heard Only
I was not as rigorous as I might have been about recording species that were heard only, but they included the following of note:
Rufescent Screech-Owl Otus ingens
Along the Potoo Trail at Tandayapa.
Scaled Antpitta Grallaria guatimalensis
Tandayapa.
Moustached Antpitta G. alleni
Tandayapa.
Yellow-breasted Antpitta G. flavotincta
Along the road between Bella Vista and Mindo.
Rufous Antpitta G. rufula
Yanacocha.
Ochre-striped Antpitta G. dignissima
Yuturi.
Unicolored Tapaculo Scytalopus unicolor
Yanacocha (glimpsed but not tickable views).
Spillman's Tapaculo S. spillmanni
Tandayapa.
Richard Rae, Sheffield, August 2003
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