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Ecuador - West Slope 1998,

Yanacocha, Nono-Mindo Road, Bellavista Lodge, Choco forest near Pedro Vicente Maldonaldo

This was our second trip to the west slope of the Andes.  This was a shorter trip that normal and we stayed the entire time at Bellavista Lodge near the small village of Tandayapa.  The forest around Bellavista is incredible and the birding is fantastic.  December is not the best time to visit this region of Ecuador.  It is at the height of the dry season and it was sunny during most of our stay.   Despite the sunny weather, we were able to find most of our target birds and had the opportunity to see some very special birds, such as Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Toucan Barbet, Tanager Finch, Swallow-tailed Nightjar and Yellow-breasted Antpitta.

The Bellavista Lodge is an interesting place.  It is a dome made primarily of bamboo.  There is no electricity, a fact that is not mentioned on either of their web pages.  The food is good and primarily vegetarian.  The accommodations are interesting.  The bamboo walls provide very little sound proofing and the bathrooms are quite small and unlit.  There are gas lamps in each room and hot water is provided.  By U.S. standards, the place is quite rustic and probably overpriced.  I will say, that we had a great time and thoroughly enjoyed our stay.  I would have no problem recommending Bellavista, but they need to provide a little more information about the accommodations.

Bellavista sets on a point overlooking the deep valley that the Nono-Mindo Road follows.  The property held within the Bellavista Clouds Forest Reserve is on a relatively steep slope, so that when hiking one either has to hike uphill either when leaving the lodge or returning.  There is an extensive network of trails through the forest.  We primarily birded two trails and the Nono-Mindo Road, which passes through the property.  In the annotated list of birds we observed below I refer some of the trails by name.  I have also divided the trails into two groups, those that are higher in elevation than the lodge and those that are lower in elevation.  We spent more time on the lower elevation trails.  Here is a brief description of the trails we frequented.

Nono-Mindo Road - We birded the road both above and below the lodge.  There are extensive bamboo thickets above the lodge and quality forest below.  While we were there, between trail D (see below) and the waterfall was the best stretch of the road for birding.

The upper trails:

H trail - begins at the entrance to the lodge.  This trail basically contours along the slope for about a quarter of a mile (possibly longer) then abruptly begins climbing the slope to the Nanegalito Road.  The climb is quite arduous and we usually birded the flat part of the trail.  The F trail provides an easier assent to to the road.   This was the only trail we regularly birded above the lodge.  Excellent forest birding.

Nanegalito Road - This road leads from the Nono-Mindo Road to the village of Nanegalito and eventually meets the highway.  This road also provided excellent birding opportunities.

Lower trails:

C trail - begins at the lodge and goes directly down slope.  It is very steep, but does offer good forest birding.  We only walked the entire trail once, but I did walk down into the forest just below the lodge frequently.

D trail - This trail begins near the lower boundary of the reserve.  It contours along the slope to a small water fall and then becomes very difficult to follow.  We birded the stretch between the start of the trail and the waterfall several times and found this trail to have the best birding of any trail we followed.

We made our lodging and transportation arrangements directly through Richard Parsons, the owner of Bellavista via email (aecie3@ecnet.ec).  I contact Jane Lyons separately to arrange for our day trip to the Choco lowlands.  Her husband, Vinicio Perez offers guide services in Mindo and is a good birder.

6 December ‑ Traveled from Quito to Bellavista Lodge on Nono-Mindo road.  Morning spent at Yanacocha.  Bellavista Lodge is located on the old Nono-Mindo Road, 6 km (by road) above Tandayapa near Tandayapa Pass.

7 December ‑ Birded trails above Bellavista Lodge in the morning.  Afternoon spent on trails between Bellavista Lodge and falls on the road to Tandayapa.

8 December ‑ Morning birding on the road and trails between Bellavista Lodge and falls on the road to Tandayapa.  Afternoon spent in vicinity of lodge and trails above lodge.

9 December - Birded forest and open habitats along an unpaved road at km 132 on main highway west of Los Bancos (approximately 10 km west of Pedro Vicente Maldanado), also birded trail into good primary growth forest.  Made a brief stop near Los Bancos on the way back to Bellavista Lodge.  Day spent with Vinicio Perez and Jane Lyons.

10 December ‑ Morning birding on the road and trails between Bellavista Lodge and the falls on the road to Tandayapa.  Afternoon spent in vicinity of lodge.

BL - in vicinity of Bellavista Lodge, including the upper portion of the C trail
HT - trails on Bellavista property above (higher in elevation) the lodge, including the road toward Mindo, the Nanegalito Road and the H trail
LT - trail on Bellavista property below (lower in elevation) the lodge, including the road to Tandayapa as far       down as the falls and the D trail to the small falls.
Bellavista - entire Bellavista property, including BL, HT, and LT
YA - Yanacocha
PVM - road at KM 132 of main highway between Los Bancos and Esmeraldas, approximately 10 km west of Pedro Vicente Maldanado.

Little Tinamou -One seen and at least five others heard along road near Pedro Vicente Maldanado.
Black Vulture - small numbers seen daily at Bellavista and PVM
Turkey Vulture - less commonly observed than Black Vulture at Bellavista and PVM
Plumbeous Kite - two seen very well along road near PVM on the 10th.
Plain -breasted Hawk -one seen in silhouette at YA, one seen from the road below BL (LT) on the 8th and another        near Los Bancos on the 9th
Barred Hawk - a pair seen soaring over the road near the H trail below Bellavista on the 10th
Roadside Hawk - Two seen along the Nono -Mindo Road between Nono and Tandayapa on the 6th
White -rumped Hawk - One seen from BL on the 7th and two soaring together along the road below the D trail        (LT) on the 10th
Black -and -chestnut Eagle - one seen overhead along the road below the D trail (LT) on the 10th
American Kestrel - Three above Nono on the 6th, one above Bellavista on the 9th.
Rock Dove - Two along the road near the D trail  (LT) on the 7th
Band -tailed Pigeon - Two or three daily on the Bellavista property
Ruddy Pigeon - Three at PVM on the 9th
Plumbeous Pigeon - Two along the road below the D trail (LT) on the 8th
Eared Dove - common in Quito
White -tipped Dove - Singles on the D trail and the road (LT) on the 7th and one on the H trail (HT) on the 8th
White -throated Quail -Dove - One seen very well just below BL on the C trail on the 7th.
Maroon -tailed Parakeet - Two small flocks were seen at PVM on the 9th
Pacific Parrotlet - Two were seen at PVM on the 9th
Red -billed Parrot - small flocks (2 to 10) were seen on the 7th, 8th and 10th at Bellavista
Bronze -winged Parrot - A flock of 37 birds was seen near Los Bancos on the 9th
Scaly -naped Parrot - Six+ at PVM on the 9th
Squirrel Cuckoo - Singles at BL on the 7^th and along the road below the D trail (LT), and two on the 9th at PVM
Little Cuckoo - One at PVM on the 9th
Striped Cuckoo - One at PVM on the 9th
Smooth -billed Ani - Three at PVM on the 9th
Rufous -bellied Nighthawk - Two seen before sunrise from the road below the lodge (LT) on the 8th
Swallow -tailed Nightjar - A female seen at about 5:30 am on the road below BL and a male seen at the first curve    of the road below BL at dusk, both on the 8th
White -collared Swift - Two to five seen from the road (LT) on the 8th and 10th.  About 20 at BL on the 10th
Chestnut -collared Swift - 20 to 30 seen at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th.
White -tipped Swift - Five seen from the road below the D trail (LT) on the 8th and three there on the 10th
Lesser Swallow -tailed Swift - One at PVM on the 9th
Tawny -breasted Hermit - One came to the feeder irregularly at BL on the 8th and 10th.
Green Violet -ear - One at the feeds at BL on the 7th, 8th and 10th.
Sparkling Violet -ear - One or two were seen along the between Nono and Tandayapa on the 6th
Green Thorntail - Two females were seen coming to flowers at PVM on the 9th
Blue -tailed (Western) Emerald - A male was observed on the LT and a female at BL on the 10th
Purple -chested Hummingbird - One at PVM on the 9th
Speckled Hummingbird - Common, up to 10 at the feeders at BL and frequently seen along the trails at Bellavista
Fawn -breasted Brilliant - One or two at the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th.
Collared Inca - About five coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th.
Buff -tailed Coronet - Up to 20 at the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th.
Gorgeted Sunangel - Five or six coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th.
Sapphire -vented Puffleg - Two at YA and another near Nono on the 6th
Hoary Puffleg - One studied at length on the Nono -Mindo Road about 5 km above Tandayapa on the 6th.
Violet -tailed Sylph - Two along the D trail (LT) on the 7th.
Purple -crowned Fairy - Two at PVM on the 9th
Purple -throated Woodstar - Up to three females coming to the feeders at BL on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th.
White -eyed Trogon - One seen very well at PVM on the 9th
Masked Trogon - Two along the Nanegalito Road on the afternoon of the 8th.
Red -headed Barbet - One male near the falls on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th
Toucan Barbet - Singles seen at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th.
Crimson -rumped Toucanet - Two near the falls on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th
Stripe -billed Aracari - Three along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Pale -mandibled Aracari - 20+ in open habitats at PVM on the 9th.
Plate -billed Mountain -Toucan - One on the D trail (LT) on the 8th and two along the Nanegalito Road on the 10th.
Choco Toucan - One seen from the highway near Los Bancos on the 9th.
Olivaceous Piculet - One at PVM on the 9th
Black -cheeked Woodpecker - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Crimson -mantled Woodpecker - One along the D trail (LT) on the LT on the 7th.
Guayaquil Woodpecker - Two at PVM on the 9th
Powerful Woodpecker - Two females along the H trail (HT) on the 7th.
Pale -legged Hornero - Two at PVM on the 9th
Azara's Spinetail - Two near Nono on the 6th.  Fairly common at Bellavista with two to three seen daily and   several others heard.
Slaty Spinetail - One bathing in a pool formed on a large leaf at BL on the 7th
Rufous Spinetail - One seen well on the 8th along the Nanegalito Road (HT).
Pearled Treerunner - Two to three seen on the H trail and other HT areas on the 7th and 8th.
Spotted Barbtail - One near the small falls on the D trail (LT) on the 8th
Rusty -winged Barbtail - One seen along the road (LT) on the 6th.
Streaked Tuftedcheek - One along the D trail (LT) on the 8th and two near BL on the 10th
Buff -fronted Foliage -gleaner - One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Striped Treehunter - Three to five around BL and HT on the 6th, 7th and 8th.
Streak -capped Treehunter - Two along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 7th.
Plain Xenops - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Tyrannine Woodcreeper - One along the D trail (LT) on the 7th
Spotted Woodcreeper - Four along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Plain -brown Woodcreeper - Three along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Montane Woodcreeper - Three along the D trail (LT) on the 7th and three at BL on the 10th
Uniform Antshrike - A female near the falls (LT) on the road to Tandayapa on the 10th
Western Slaty -Antshrike - At least five at PVM on the 9th
Checker -throated Antwren - Four along the forest trail and one along the road at PVM on the 9th
Dot -winged Antwren - 15+ along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Long -tailed Antbird - Three along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th
Chestnut -crowned Antpitta - Frequently heard, one seen well on the 10th along the road between the D trail and   the falls (LT).
Yellow -breasted Antpitta - One seen in the same location between 5:30 and 5:45 am on the road below BL on the   8th and 10th.
Unicolored (Blackish) Tapaculo - One seen and many heard at YA on the 6th.
Narino Tapaculo - One seen very well along the road below BL (LT) on the 10th
Spillmann's Tapaculo - Very common at Bellavista, singles seen on the 7th and 8th.
Sooty -headed Tyrannulet - Two, or three, along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Black -capped Tyrannulet - Three along the H trail (HT) on the 7th
Golden -faced Tyrannulet - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Brown -capped Tyrannulet - Two along the road at PVM on the 9th
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet - Singles near Tandayapa on the 6th and PVM on the 9th
Yellow -crowned Tyrannulet - Two along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
White -crested Elaenia - One above Nono on the 6th
White -throated Tyrannulet - Three at YA and one above Nono on the 6th
White -tailed Tyrannulet - Singles at YA and Nono on the 6th,  2 -5 at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th
Streak -necked Flycatcher - Two to five at Bellavista on the 6th, 7th, 8th and 10th
Marble -faced Bristle -Tyrant - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Black -capped Pygmy -Tyrant - Six along the road at PVM on the 9th
Rufous -crowned Tody -Tyrant - Two along the road near the start of the D trail (LT) on the 8th
Black -headed Tody -Flycatcher - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Cinnamon Flycatcher - Commonly observed along the Nono -Mindo Road and at Bellavista
Flavescent Flycatcher - One along the road (LT) on the 10th
Tropical Pewee - Three at PVM on the 9th
Smoke -colored Pewee - Three along the Nono -Mindo Road on the on the 6th, one or two at Bellavista on the 7th,        8th and 10th.
Olive -sided Flycatcher - Two at PVM on the 9th
Acadian Flycatcher - Three at PVM on the 9th
Brown -backed Chat -Tyrant - One at YA on the 6th
Crowned Chat -Tyrant - One at YA on the 6th
Yellow -bellied Chat -Tyrant - One along the road (LT) on the 8th
Streak -throated Bush -Tyrant - Singles at Quito on the 6th and on the road near the D trail (LT) on the 8th
Dusky -capped Flycatcher - Two at PVM on the 9th
Social Flycatcher - Three at PVM on the 9th
Gray -capped Flycatcher - One at PVM on the 9th
Streaked Flycatcher - One at PVM on the 9th
Tropical Kingbird - Three at PVM on the 9th
Snowy -throated Kingbird - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Cinnamon Becard - One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Black -and -white Becard - One or two at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th
One -colored Becard - One female along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Green -and -black Fruiteater - A pair at BL on the 7th and a female along the road (LT) on the 8th
Rufous Piha - Two along the road at PVM on the 9th
White -bearded Manakin - Five along the road and two along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Turquoise Jay - Two along the road to Mindo (HT) on the 8th, frequently heard at Bellavista
Red -eyed Vireo - Five along the road at PVM
Brown -capped Vireo - One or two at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th and 10th
Lesser Greenlet - Three seen along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Brown -bellied Swallow - About 35 near Nono on the 6th
Blue -and -white Swallow - Five to ten daily at Bellavista
Southern Rough -winged Swallow - Two at PVM on the 9th
Andean Solitaire - Commonly heard in the early morning and late afternoon at Bellavista.  Three seen along the D        trail (LT) on the 8th.
Swainson's Thrush - Two along the forest trail at PVM
Great Thrush - Common around Quito, YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th.  Two to three at Bellavista on   the 7th, 8th, and 10th.
Plain -tailed Wren - Pairs were seen in bamboo at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
House Wren - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Mountain Wren - One along the D trail (LT) on the 7th
Gray -breasted Wood -Wren - Common at Bellavista, up to 10/day seen and many others heard
Southern Nightingale -Wren - One seen and several others heard along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Slate -throated Gnatcatcher - Eight along the road at PVM on the 9th
Tawny -faced Gnatwren - at least 6 at PVM on the 9th
Tropical Parula - One near Los Bancos on the 9th
Cerulean Warbler - One along the D trail (LT) on the 8th
Blackburnian Warbler - Common at Bellavista, 10/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Slate -throated Redstart - Fairly common at Bellavista, 5/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Spectacled Redstart - Ten at YA and two more near Nono on the 6th, four along the road (HT) on the 7th
Three -striped Warbler - Four along the D trail (LT) on the 8th and three at BL on the 10th
Black -crested Warbler - One near Nono on the 6th, singles on the LT on the 7th, 8th and 10th.
Russet -crowned Warbler - Fairly common at Bellavista, at least 5/day on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Buff -rumped Warbler - One at PVM on the 9th
Yellow -collared Chlorophonia - One male seen briefly in a mixed flock near the falls (LT) on the 10th
Orange -bellied Euphonia - Two or three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Thick -billed Euphonia - A pair along the road between the D trail and the falls on the 8th
Cinereous Conebill - Two at YA and another near Nono on the 6th
Blue -backed Conebill - One at YA on the 6th
Capped Conebill - Two to three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Masked Flowerpiercer - 15+ at YA and near Nono on the 6th
Glossy Flowerpiercer - 50+ at YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th
White -sided Flowerpiercer - Two to three per day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Green Honeycreeper - A female along the road at PVM on the 9th
Yellow -tufted Dacnis - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Scarlet -breasted Dacnis - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Golden Tanager - Common along the Nono -Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 10/day
Silver -throated Tanager - Four near Los Bancos on the 9th
Flame -faced Tanager - Three at BL on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Metallic -green Tanager - Three on the 7th and two on the 10th on the LT
Blue -necked Tanager - 10+ along the road at PVM on the 9th
Golden -hooded Tanager - Five along the road at PVM on the 9th
Golden -naped Tanager - Common along the Nono -Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 10/day
Bay -headed Tanager - Two near Los Bancos on the 9th
Beryl -spangled Tanager - Up to 10/day at Bellavista on the 7th, 8th, and 10th
Blue -and -black Tanager - One adult at BL on the 10th
Black -capped Tanager - Females were seen near Tandayapa on the 6th and at BL on the 10th
Golden -crowned Tanager - One at YA on the 6th
Scarlet -bellied Mountain -Tanager - About 10 at YA and along the road to Nono on the 6th, one along the      Nanegalito Road (HT) on the 8th.
Blue -winged Mountain -Tanager - Common along the Nono -Mindo Road and at Bellavista, 20/day
Hooded Mountain -Tanager - One seen briefly at YA on the 6th
Swallow Tanager - Three near Los Bancos on the 9th
Blue -gray Tanager - Five along the road at PVM and two near Los Bancos on the 9th
Palm Tanager - One near Los Bancos on the 9th
Blue -capped Tanager - Singles near BL on the 7th and 10th
Flame -rumped Tanager - Seven along the road at PVM on the 9th
White -shouldered Tanager - About 20 at PVM on the 9th
Rufous -chested Tanager - Singes along the H trail (HT) on the 7th and along the road between the D trail and the        falls (LT) and at BL on the 10th
Dusky Bush -Tanager - Common at Bellavista, 20/day on the 6th, 7th, 8th, and 10th
Black -eared Hemispingus - Singles in bamboo above BL on the 7th and 10th
Grass -green Tanager - One along the Nanegalito Road (HT) on the 7th
Plushcap - One in bamboo along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th
Buff -throated Saltator - 10+ along the road at PVM on the 9th
Slate -colored Grosbeak - One along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Southern Yellow -Grosbeak - A pair frequented the trees around BL on the 8th and 10th.
Variable Seedeater - Two along the road at PVM on the 9th
Yellow -bellied Seedeater - Three along the road at PVM on the 9th and one at LT on the 10th
Rufous -naped Brush -Finch - Three at YA on the 6th
White -winged Brush -Finch - Singles at Tandayapa on the 6th an between the D trail and falls on the 8th
Stripe -headed Brush -Finch - One at YA on the 6th
Tanager Finch - One feeding along road in the U of the Nanegalito Road (near the intersection with the Mindo      Road, HT) at about 5:15 pm on the 8th.
Scrub Blackbird - One is a pasture along the road at PVM on the 9th
Yellow -bellied Siskin - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Lesser Goldfinch - Two females along the road between the D trail and the falls (LT) on the 8th

199 species

Heard Only

White -throated Crake - One along the road at PVM on the 9th
Andean Pygmy -Owl - One on the 7th and two on the 10th between the D trail and the falls (LT).
Common Potoo - One heard predawn below BL on the 8th
Great Jacamar - One along the forest trail at PVM
Great Antshrike - One along the road at PVM
Chestnut -backed Antbird - Several along the forest trail at PVM on the 9th
Undulated Antpitta - Three or four at YA on the 6th
Rufous Antpitta - Three at YA on the 6th
Tawny Antpitta - One heard near Nono on the 6th
Ocellated Tapaculo - Several (5 -10) at YA on the 6th

Mark Lockwood
Austin, Texas 78745
mwlockwood@juno.com

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