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Birdwatching Trip Reports from the Gambia
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An early departure saw us on our way to Georgetown. Gambia had had an unusually high rainfall for the summer and the with the now very pot-holed road, it was going to be a long day's travelling. Particularly as we have to stop every so often for a little birding.
First stop was at the old shrimp farm where we had previously seen Crowned Cranes. But not this time. Wire Tailed swallows were in abundance having nested in the large drain pipes leading between the pools. Senegal Thick-knee and the ubiquitous Spur Winged Plovers were in everywhere. Whilst there are plenty of Oxpeckers about, one doesn't see them all that often on the local cattle. They are more likely to be found on donkeys!!! However, it was interesting to see a large group of Piapiac had taken over this niche in the food market.
There was also a pair of plain backed pipits about but I was a little late on the scene and although my companion managed some good video of them in the open, by the time I arrived they were in and out of the brush and the pictures I achieved were not very satisfactory.
We contiuned on our way along ever worsening roads with a fairly inconsequnetial stop, (for the video photographers although the sound recorders seemed to do better) at Pirang. A couple more short stops and then we were really rushing over what were by now appallingly potholed roads. It was soon clear that we would either wreck the vehicle or arrive at Georgetown very late. We decided the late arrival was the more prudent option. Because we were late, we didn't stop in Georgetown at the office of the Bird Safari Camp but continued straight on down to the camp. Big mistake, the road was badly overgrown after the particularly heavy rains of the 1999 summer and more like a marsh than a road. We did make it in the end, to find that we had been expected to leave the vehicle at the office where they had a boat waiting to bring us down. However, a few cold drinks and a pleasant meal put us all in good shape again
I awoke early the next morning to the most extraordinary dawn chorus of Kingfishers!! I had been vaguely concious of much noise from owls during the night too but, after the long previous day, I never really awoke enough to force myself out of bed to look for them. The sound recordists did make the effort however, and believed they had some good recordings. Needless to say, they didn't actually spot any of the "singers".
After a hearty breakfast, we began our walk through the local countryside. Even though very early still, it was already very hot a pattern that was to be with us for the whole of the week we were in the Gambia. We had arrived on what turned out to be the last day of the rainy season, but the tropical front lay just to the south of us throughout our stay maintaining the humidity at close to 100% and the temperature each day climbed well into the 40's Centigrade. Focussing the camera became difficult as salty perspiration was contually running into ones eyes. However, for anyone reading this who has never been to the Gambia before, do not be put off. Though hot, it was in no way debilitating. We carried heavy camera gear around with us all day without undue discomfort and in ten years of visiting the Gambia this was the only time that I have known it be consistently this hot. Normal temperatures are very pleasant even in the middle of the rainy season.
Birding on Macarthy Island is pure magic. The habitat is quite varied with some farmland, open bush and forested areas and the waters edge. The bird life reflects the different environments. Because of the density of the vegetation after the heavy rains it was difficult getting video of the birds, but there was certainly plenty to see. A total failure for the umpteenth year running was an attempt to get pictures of a Red Shouldered Cuckoo Shrike. We had plenty of views of it, but it would never stay still or in the open long enough to get any video. Such is the story for many of the smaller birds, although quite common and often seen, they are always flitting about in the undergrowth and impossible to video. As a resident, one would wait or set up the shot, but on a brief holiday one rarely has the time to devote to one bird. A Violet Touraco was a little more accommodating, although it too never really came into the open. However, the Western Banded Snake Eagle and a Cardinal Woodpecker proved much better subjects. We also spent a long time at one end of the island trying to get pictures of a Swamp Flycatcher only to find later in the day that there were several flitting about in the bushes right in the camp itself.
The late afternoon until dark was spent on the river in the Safari Camp's boat. I was optimistic about seeing the one Kingfisher missing from my video collection, the Shining Blue Kingfisher, but despite all the noise in the morning, very few kingfishers were evident along the riverside. Even the very common Pied Kingfisher was noticeable by its absence. We decided that the fishing was probably so good, that they had had their fill long before we embarked on our trip. However, we did get quite close to some Hippo and for the two sound recordists who had not seen a Black Coucal before, they were able to collect another first.