Even before our plane has landed, Arctic Terns are spotted. Next day we set sail across Breidafjördur bound for the island of Flatey. During the voyage we spot a Minke Whale beside the thousands of busy Fulmars, Puffins and Arctic Terns. Pulling into a small rocky islet we enjoy close views of 16 Common Seals and a resting group of some 20 Knot, still in nice red breeding plumage.

We arrive on Flatey in warm sunshine with many Snipe drumming overhead and male Snow Buntings in their black and white colours. Along the shore numerous Kittiwakes, Black Guillemots, Turnstones and Purple Sandpipers attract our attention. Scoping a variety of waders we pick out numerous Red necked Phalaropes and then a single rufous male Grey Phalarope, in the same view for comparison with the red necks. During an exciting return trip sprayed by white surf, we break our journey for superb close views of a pair of White tailed Eagles, both perched and in flight, plus their two eaglets.

Next day we are all at sea again, on a whale watching adventure. Pitching and rolling on the swell from a stiff breeze, whale spotting is difficult but we do manage several porpoising White beaked Dolphins and Minke Whales as well as a couple of Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrels at close range. Back on dry land we spot some 40 Turnstones and 75 Purple Sandpipers on rocks near Olafsvík, with hundreds of tawny looking Sanderlings scurrying along a nearby beach. Glaucous Gulls pose at the intriguing basalt rock formations at Arnarstapi while 6 male Harlequins ride the surf which pounds the rocks below. Further west along the beautiful Snaefellsnes peninsula, a short walk leads to cliffs covered in yet more Kittiwakes, Puffins and Razorbills plus Common and Brünnich's Guillemots side by side.

Moving east to Mývatn, we pass numerous Whooper Swans and a big raft of some 850 plus Greylag Geese in brilliant sunshine on Svínavatn. On Mývatn, the thousands of wildfowl dotted across the lake include many Wigeon, Scaup, Long tailed Duck, Barrow's Goldeneye and Slavonian Grebes. Inshore we have marvellous views of Red throated and magnificent Great Northern Divers with Whimbrels, Black tailed Godwits, Ptarmigan, Merlins, Short eared Owls and Gyr Falcons among the surrounding lava fields. All this on top of the marvels of an unearthly landscape of steaming lava, fumaroles, boiling mud and the awesome power of Dettifoss.

Crossing the uninhabited interior, we watch Snow Buntings while immersed in the geothermal water of a natural spring pool at Hveravellir. Deeper into this desolate no man's land, betwixt glaciers, a scan of a braided watercourse reveals up to 90 Pink footed Geese grazing their harsh summer land.

A final day on the trail of the 'Golden Circle'; the amazing spouting Geysir, the spectacular Gullfoss, Thingvellir with its tectonic rift, and a dip into the heavenly warm water of the Blue Lagoon.

Once in Reykjavík its time to reflect on the highlights of this wonderful tour; the family of White tailed Eagles, Harlequins at close range, beautiful summer plumage Golden Plovers, a Gyr Falcon perched atop a lava crater, Short eared Owl in effortless silent flight, that raft of Greylag Geese and of course the very rare Grey Phalarope.

Chris & Alison Hall