INTRODUCTION

A year in the planning this was to be me and my brother’s, (Lee) second all out ‘dawn ‘till dusk’ birding venture following on from Trinidad and Tobago two years ago.

There are a multitude of trip reports for Goa on the net and justifiably so. Goa is a great introduction for getting to grips with exotic Indian birds. Many reports are detailed and are an invaluable resource to any one visiting this part of India. With this in mind I do not intend to reproduce said reports here, just give an indication as to what can be achieved in seven days of intense birding, with an excellent guide and a bit of luck

Firstly I must thank the many people I contacted prior to our visit with special thanks to Brian & Isabel Eady. They supplied me with some excellent DVDs, checklists and personal trip reports and were extremely helpful in every way. Many thanks Brian & Isabel.    

We booked through Portland Holidays via www.portlandholidays.co.uk. We got an excellent deal on a week’s bed and breakfast at the Marinha Dourada, Baga. As mentioned in other reports this hotel is excellent, both in location and 3* accommodation.

GUIDE

On the recommendation of Roy Tricehurst (trip report 16 Feb-16 Mar 2006) we contacted our bird guide Santosh Redkar by e-mail goabirdingsantosh@hotmail.com.  To be absolutely honest I don’t think you could get a better bird guide in Goa than Santosh. Like most guides he knew all the stakeouts for Owls, Nightjars etc but, unlike most guides, also had ‘secret’ places for Pitta and Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher (both in the Baga area) that only he knew.  He was punctual and charged only the going taxi rates although we did tip him after each day and more generously at the end of the week.  

We also booked Backwoods on the net backwoodsgoa@hotmail.com for 3 days/2 nights at a cost of 5000 Rupees per person. (money definitely well spent)

DAY ONE

With only a weeks birding available we had to ‘hit the ground running’ to maximize our limited time. We therefore decided to get Santosh to pick us up from the airport to enable us to bird on the way to the hotel.

Our flight was on time and landed at Dabolim airport at 16:30. First bird from the airport, House Sparrow! Not quite the exotics we had flown 9+ hours to find but they all add to make the trip list bigger. 

No problems with immigration, in fact we were through within 15 minutes. Santosh was there to collect us. Once through the nightmare that is rush hour in Panjim we were heading across the bridge over the Zuari River picking up Gull-billed Tern and Indian Cormorant. The first few hours in a new country is always a bit manic, trying to identify everything that flies even when you know full well that most are birds that you will see at a more leisurely pace later. Anyway we were picking up birds all the way to Marinha Dourada. Brahminy Kite, White-breasted Kingfisher, Pied Bushchat, Green Bee-eater, Black-shouldered Kite all made it on the ever-growing list before we reached the hotel.

We had made great time and still had about ¾ hour daylight so we left our luggage in reception and headed across the road to bird the paddies. Although not much to look at the paddies held an array of birds and our Goan list increased with the more anticipated species of the trip like Small Pratincole, Ashy Woodswallow, Jungle Myna and White-browed Wagtail.

Although we were to be up at the crack of dawn the next day to be collected and off to Backwoods Santosh came back just after dusk and drove us to a Barn Owl site that he knew. Ok not an ‘exotic’ but an extra billy bonus for the trip list. Lifers so far 14.

DAY TWO

Picked up at 05:15 am for Backwoods. First bird of the day Spotted Owlet on wires outside the hotel Biera Mar. With only 3 other people on board the next 3 days were going to be good. We had heard bad stories of groups of 10 or more making the Backwoods birding experience a little less enjoyable and not so productive and with Pramod being the only guide as Loven was off elsewhere in India our little band of 5 was an ideal number for birding with extra eyes but not too many bodies!

En-route we stopped at first light at a school playing field to get our first taste of Western Ghats birding. Crimson-fronted Barbet, Vernal Hanging-Parrot, Chestnut-tailed Starling, Parakeets, Flamebacks and Sunbirds all vied for our attention. 30+ different species were seen in little over an hour. Back on the bus we added Indian Roller, Indian Peafowl, Long-tailed Shrike and Golden Oriole to the list. Lifers so far 41

At Backwoods camp we were allocated our tents. A quick walk around the camp environs didn’t produce too much but the first walk into the forest with Pramod certainly did! The list seemed endless with highlights being Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike, Western Crowned Warbler, Black-naped Monarch, Bulbuls, Babblers and Drongo’s.

As mentioned in other reports the daily schedule was tea and biscuits at first light, a guided walk, back for breakfast, back out ‘till lunchtime, early afternoon spent in the camp area relaxing, unless you are like me and Lee in which case out and about again albeit not seeing much!, a light tea then off on another walkabout at about 4pm then back for dinner. I must mention that the food at Backwoods was delicious. I wasn’t too sure at times what I was eating but every meal was superb.

The afternoon walk took us past Tambdi Sula and birding the open ridges. Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, Pompadour Green Pigeon, Malabar Pied and Grey Hornbill, Needletails, Swifts and Raptors were all in the offing. Yet again another fantastic trip out. The only downer was being told that the Sri Lanka Frogmouth’s had moved roost as somebody from the last Backwoods visit had returned without a guide and possibly disturbed them when taking photo’s. Why can’t people leave well alone? Pramod was not impressed and hadn’t re found them as yet. Lifers so far 75

DAY THREE      

The second day at Backwoods started off with Orange-headed Ground-Thrush. The early morning walk produced a cracking Oriental Turtle-Dove, and Brown-cheeked Fulvetta among many others but the undoubted highlight was Spot-breasted Eagle-Owl. A cracking bird eventually found after a hard search. To top that off a superb White-bellied Woodpecker was also tracked down. 

After breakfast we headed off to the raptor watch point. Excellent variety of raptors seen including Black Eagle, Shikra, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Booted Eagle and Woolly-necked Stork.

The afternoon walk took us a bit further a field. Not too sure where it was but it produced the goods again. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, a fantastic Blue-faced Malkoha, Heart-spotted Woodpecker, a Grey Junglefowl crossing our path and, to Pramods surprise, a mega rarity Oriental Hobby.

From there we went on to the Nightjar watch. As dusk fell we picked up both Jerdon’s and Grey Nightjar. Lifers so far 95

DAY FOUR 

This was our last day at Backwoods. The morning walk took us back to Tambdi Sula and a river walk. Target bird Blue-eared Kingfisher was easily picked up but the best sighting was of Great Hornbill. Other goodies included Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, superb male and female Malabar Trogon and culminating in a fantastic pair of Rufous-bellied Hawk-Eagles.

Before we left for the return journey back to the coast, a walk around the camp area produced Common Wood-shrike, Jungle Babbler and Black-lored Tit.

Lifers so far 107 and we hadn’t even birded the coastal environs yet!!

Back at the Marinha Dourada for the afternoon and straight out and picking up ‘common’ species as yet unseen by us such as Richard’s and Paddyfield Pipit, Pacific Golden Plover and various waders to notch up the trip list. Highlight was a pair of White-bellied Sea-Eagles over Baga hill.

The early evening saw us positioned by the pool at the Biera Mar. We had been told that Cinnamon Bittern, Ruddy-breasted Crake and Painted-Snipe had all been seen in the past few days. I had heard varying reports, before we came out, about the Beira Mar marsh and to be honest I was pleasantly surprised. Birds perched on the wires included, among others, Black-capped Kingfisher, Scaly-breasted Munia and Common Myna. The ubiquitous Black and Brahminy Kites were everywhere along with Eurasian Marsh Harrier.  The marsh itself held various Egrets and White-breasted Waterhen. As the light began to fade a Clamorous Reed Warbler appeared and shortly afterwards not one but two Cinnamon Bittern appeared. Just as the light had almost gone out came a cracking female Greater Painted-Snipe. Although the light wasn’t great the bird showed extremely well out in the open. Lifers so far 117

DAY FIVE      

Today we headed off, with Santosh, to Carambolin . First light saw us positioned by a small wood scoping a magnificent Greater Spotted Eagle perched out in the open. Male and female Asian Koels and Openbill Storks were all new along with Greater Coucal. Santosh had previously staked out Brown Hawk-Owl and Jungle Owlet and these were duly seen along with Spotted Owlet. A quick walk to the other side of the wood led to a marshy area where Black-headed Ibis, Siberian Stonechat, Bluethroat and Baya Weaver were seen along with LBJ’s like Ashy and Plain Prinia.

On to the lake itself, the amount of water birds was astounding. I was surprised just how many Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas there were. I thought the Pheasant-tailed Jacanas would be quite difficult to pick up but both Jacanas were abundant. Cotton Pygmy-Goose were also common along with Lesser Whistling-Duck. Snipe were also in evidence and we were fortunate to get good views of Pintail Snipe in flight.

A few km’s down the road is Velha Lake where we went to get the ducks not present at Carambolin such as Teal, Pintail, Gargany and Shoveler.

Santosh dropped us off back to the hotel mid afternoon. Brian & Isabel Eady had given us directions for breeding Alexandrine Parakeet in the area. It was baking hot but we set off (mad dogs and Englishmen?) Although the birds had obviously moved on from where Brian and Isabel had said Lee managed to get onto one a few hundred meters further on. A quick yomp over some fields and we found the breeding site of a couple of Alexandrines with both males and females present at the nest holes.

Later in the afternoon Santosh picked us up and took us to the Brown Wood-Owl site at Saligao Spring. Further up on the hillside raptors were much in evidence with both Greater and Indian Spotted Eagle being present plus Tawny Eagle.

During the day Santosh also took us to his ‘secret’ site for Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher, a little gem that we failed to see at Backwoods.

Back at the Biera mar and duly picking up Ruddy-breasted Crake well before dusk. The bird showing well for a good few minutes. How easy is this birding lark? Lifers so far 144

DAY SIX

This morning found us at Mayem Lake for first light.  Target bird was Orange-breasted Green Pigeon. Surprise, surprise the Pigeon was picked up easily five minutes after arrival!! Other birds picked up around the lake included Pied, Stork-billed and Common Kingfisher, an excellent Crested Treeswift and a beautiful Brown Fish-Owl. Santosh also knew the roost of Grey Nightjar and again one of his ‘secret’ sites for Indian Nightjar.

From Mayem we called in at Dikhanem Lake to pick up Terek Sandpiper and from there on to a site on the Zouri River were we got excellent views of Lesser Adjutant.

Again it was baking hot and after nearly six days in the field I was beginning to feel the strain. With this in mind we declined Santosh’s offer of going out again later in the afternoon and spent the time around Baga Fields. This was quite productive, no lifers, but it was nice to just do a bit of relaxing birding. Lifers so far 149

DAY SEVEN    

Batteries now re-charged after yesterday’s easy afternoon, Santosh picked us up and headed for Morjim Beach. En route we stopped at various fields to pick up 5 feeding Indian Peafowl and half a dozen Yellow-wattled Lapwing. The latter I thought we would have to wait until we visited Dona Paula to connect with. White-bellied Sea-Eagle also put in an appearance. At the beach all target birds were seen including summer plumaged Pallas’ Gull, Brown and Black-headed Gulls, Caspian Gull, Heughlin’s Gull and Lesser Crested Tern. In the surrounding fields Barred Buttonquail was flushed, a cracking Bay-backed Shrike showed well and a Brahminy Starling was also found.

In the afternoon we took the ferry over to Divar Island to connect with Harriers. First bird seen off the ferry was an excellent male Pallid Harrier. Positioning ourselves under the shade of a lone tree we picked up more Pallid’s, Eurasian Marsh and a single Montague’s Harrier. Santosh said we’d get them all and how right he was!

Also during the day Santosh took us to his ‘secret’ site for Indian Pitta. Apparently the Arpora bird has not returned this year so without Santosh we would have dipped on this species. The bird showed well in super light although it did take some scrambling around in some ‘unsavory’ conditions. This is not the ‘Pitta in the shitta’ site of Fort Aguada.

Lifers so far 159

DAY EIGHT      

Last day with us flying out at 1800. Santosh took us to Dona Paula for our final push. Although not exactly aesthetically pleasing the area produced the goods with all target birds easily found. Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Oriental Skylark and Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark were all ridiculously easy and our bogy bird of the trip Indian Robin saved the last day to show. In fact they were abundant here.

After here Santosh dropped us off at the airport where an uneventful flight brought us back to reality. I eventually ended up with a trip list of 236 with 161 lifers. Not a bad effort for  a weeks birding. It was exhausting. Lee felt the strain when he got back and was unwell for a few days, heatstroke and exhaustion we believe. Me, I was absolutely shattered but. after a good nights sleep, was up and busy typing up my birding records.

Goa is a fantastic place to bird, Backwoods is unmissable,

If I have any advice to give to fellow birders who intend to visit Goa. Don’t go to Goa without doing Backwoods. Even if you are only visiting for a week DO BACKWOODS!

If anyone wants to get in touch with any questions please feel free to contact me via e-mail snbaines@blueyonder.co.uk

For the record here is the trip list, lifers in bold:

Legend : MD/Marinha Dourada BW/Backwoods BM/Biera Mar CL/Carambolin Lake, wood, marsh VL/Velha Lake SS/Sligao Spring ML/Mayem Lake DL/Dikhanem Lake ZR/Zouri River BF/Baga Fields, woods, MB/Morjim Beach DI/Divar Island DP/Dona Paula 

SPECIES	SITE
Little Grebe	CL / VL
Oriental Darter	CL
Indian Cormorant	CL / ZR
Little Cormorant	Common
Grey Heron	MD / CL
Purple Heron	CL
Cattle Egret	Abundant
Great White Egret	MD / CL / ZR / DI
Intermediate Egret	Common
Little Egret	Common
Western Reef-Heron	ZR / DI
Indian Pond-Heron	Abundant
Striated Heron	ML
Black-crowned Night-Heron	MB
Cinnamon Bittern	BM
Asian Openbill	CL
Woolly-necked Stork	BW
Lesser Adjutant	ZR / DI
Black-headed Ibis	CL
Glossy Ibis	CL / DL
Lesser Whistling-Duck	CL / VL
Cotton Pygmy-Goose	CL
Gadwall	CL
Common Teal	VL
Northern Pintail	VL
Gargany	VL
Northern Shoveler	VL
Osprey	CL / VL
White-bellied Sea-Eagle	MD / MB
Crested Serpent-Eagle	BW / CL
Asian Black Eagle	BW
Indian Spotted Eagle	SS
Greater Spotted Eagle	CL / SS
Tawny Eagle	SS
Bonelli’s Eagle	BW
Booted Eagle	BW
Rufous-bellied Hawk-Eagle	BW
Black-shouldered Kite	Common
Black Kite	Abundant
Brahminy Kite	Very Common
Pallid Harrier	DI
Montague’s Harrier	DI
Eurasian Marsh Harrier	BM / DI
Oriental Honey-Buzzard	BW
Western Steppe Buzzard	MD
Crested Goshawk	BW
Shikra	MD / BW
Eurasian Kestrel	MD
Oriental Hobby	BW
Peregrine	CL / BF
Grey Junglefowl	BW
Indian Peafowl	BW / MB
Barred Buttonquail	MB
Ruddy-breasted Crake	BM
Common Moorhen	CL / VL
Purple Swamphen	CL
White-breasted Waterhen	BM/ML
Eurasian Coot	CL / VL
Pheasant-tailed Jacana	CL
Bronze-winged Jacana	CL / VL
Greater Painted-Snipe	BM
Black-winged Stilt	CL
Small Pratincole	MD
Yellow-wattled Lapwing	MB / DP
Red-wattled Lapwing	Common
Pacific Golden Plover	MD
Little Ringed Plover	MD / DL
Kentish Plover	MD / DL
Lesser Sand-Plover	MB
Greater Sand-Plover	MB
Eurasian Whimbrel	ZR
Eurasian Curlew	ZR
Common Redshank	MD / DL / DI
Marsh Sandpiper	MD
Common Greenshank	MD / DL
Green Sandpiper	MD / BW
Wood Sandpiper	MD / DL
Common Sandpiper	MD / BW / DL / ZR
Terek Sandpiper	DL
Pintail Snipe	CL
Common Snipe	BM / CL / BF
Little Stint	MD
Temminck’s Stint	MD
Ruff	CL
Heuglin’s Gull	MB
Caspian Gull	MB
Pallas’ Gull	MB
Brown-headed Gull	ZR / MB
Black-headed Gull	MB
Slender-billed Gull	MB
Gull-billed Tern	CL / ZR
Lesser Crested Tern	MB
Sandwich Tern	MB
Oriental Turtle-Dove	BW
Spotted Dove	BW / BF
Orange-breasted Green Pigeon	ML
Pompadour Green Pigeon	BW
Mountain Imperial-Pigeon	BW
Vernal Hanging-Parrot	BW
Alexandrine Parakeet	MD
Ring-necked Parakeet	Common
Plum-headed Parakeet	BW / ML
Malabar Parakeet	BW
Asian Koel	Fairly common
Blue-faced Malkoha	BW / ML
Greater Coucal	CL
Barn-Owl	MD
Spot-bellied Eagle-Owl	BW
Brown Fish-Owl	ML
Brown Wood-Owl	SS
Jungle Owlet	CL
Spotted Owlet	MD / CL
Brown Hawk-Owl	CL
Grey Nightjar	BW / ML
Jerdon’s Nightjar	BW
Indian Nightjar	ML
Indian Swiflet	BW / MB
White-rumped Spinetail	BW
Brown-backed Needletail	BW
Asian Palm-Swift	BW
Little Swift	BW
Crested Treeswift	BW / ML
Malabar Trogon	BW
Pied Kingfisher	CL / ML
Common Kingfisher	Common
Blue-eared Kingfisher	BW
Oriental Dwarf Kingfisher	-
Stork-billed Kingfisher	Common
White-breasted Kingfisher	Abundant
Black-capped Kingfisher	BM
Little Green Bee-eater	Abundant
Blue-tailed Bee-eater	Common
Chestnut-headed Bee-eater	BW
Indian Roller	BW / CL
Eurasian Hoopoe	BF
Malabar Grey Hornbill	Fairly Common
Malabar Pied Hornbill	BW
Great Hornbill	BW
White-cheeked Barbet	BW
Crimson-fronted Barbet	BW
Coppersmith Barbet	SS
White-bellied Woodpecker	BW
Black-rumped Flameback	Fairly common
Greater Flameback	BW
Heart-spotted Woodpecker	BW
Brown-breasted Flycatcher	BW
Verditer Flycatcher	BW
Tickell’s Blue-Flycatcher	BW
Asian Paradise Flycatcher	Fairly common
Black-naped Monarch	BW
White-browed Fantail	BW / CL
Indian Pitta
Greater Short-toed Lark	DI
Malabar Lark	CL / BF
Oriental Skylark	DI / DP
Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark	DP
Barn Swallow	Common
Wire-tailed Swallow	Common
Red-rumped Swallow	Common
Streak-throated Swallow	Fairly common
Forest Wagtail	BW
Grey Wagtail	BW / CL / VL
Grey-headed Wagtail	MD / CL
White-wagtail	BW
White-browed Wagtail	Fairly common
Richard’s Pipit	MD / BF
Paddyfield Pipit	BW / MD / BF / MB
Blyth’s Pipit	CL
Eurasian Tree Pipit	BM
Grey-headed Bulbul	BW
Black-crested Bulbul	BW
Red-whiskered Bulbul	Common
Red-vented Bulbul	Common
White-browed Bulbul	BW / CL
Yellow-browed Bulbul	BW
Common Iora	BW
Golden-fronted Leafbird	Fairly common
Asian Fairy-Bluebird	BW
Black-headed Cuckoo-shrike	BW
Small Minivet	CL
Scarlet Minivet	BW
Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike	BW
Common Woodshrike	BW
Bay-backed Shrike	MB
Long-tailed Shrike	Common
Indian Robin	DP
Malabar Whistling-Thrush	BW
Orange-headed Ground-Thrush	BW / BF
Nilgiri Blackbird	BW
Bluethroat	CL
Oriental Magpie-Robin	Common
Siberian Stonechat	CL / BF
Pied Bushchat	Abundant
Puff-throated Babbler	BW / BF
Dark-fronted Babbler	BW
Jungle Babbler	BW / SS
Brown-cheeked Fulvetta	BW / SS
Zitting Cisticola	CL
Ashy Prinia	Fairly common
Plain Prinia	CL
Blyth’s Reed Warbler	Fairly common
Clamorous Reed Warbler	BM
Common Tailorbird	BW / ML
Greenish Warbler	Fairly Common
Large-billed Leaf-Warbler	BW
Western Crowned Warbler	BW
Black-lored Tit	BW
Velvet-fronted Nuthatch	BW
Thick-billed Flowerpecker	Fairly common
Plain Flowerpecker	Fairly common
Purple Sunbird	Fairly common
Purple-rumped Sunbird	Fairly common
Crimson-backed Sunbird	Fairly Common
Loten’s Sunbird	BW
Little Spiderhunter	BW / ML
Black Drongo	Abundant
Ashy Drongo	BW
Bronzed Drongo	BW
Greater Racket-tailed Drongo	BW
Ashy Woodswallow	Fairly common
Rufous Treepie	Fairly common
House Crow	Abundant
Large-billed Crow	BW
Golden Oriole	Fairly common
Black-hooded Oriole	BW
Chestnut-tailed Starling	BW / BF
Malabar White-headed Starling	BW
Brahminy Starling	MB
Rose-coloured Starling	Common
Common Myna	BM / BF
Jungle Myna	Abundant
White-rumped Munia	Fairly common
Scaly-breasted Munia	BM
Baya Weaver	CL
House Sparrow	MD
Chestnut-shouldered Petronia	BW