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West Bengal and Sikkim,India ,
Jan Vermeulen CONTENTS
General Information
References
Itinerary (summary)
Notes on Sites
WEST BENGAL
Lava and surroundings
Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary
SIKKIM
Tholung Valley
Teesta River Valley
Damthang Forest
Daily Log
Systematic List of Birds and Mammals
GENERAL INFORMATION
This is an account of a 16 days trip to northern West Bengal & Sikkim in Northeast India from 29 March -14 April 2002. There were four of us on the trip: my long-time friends Vital van Gorp and Eric Wille and Peter Lobo, who was our guide for the whole period. For the three of us it was our third visit to India.
Two months ago we decided to travel to this area after we had cancelled our trip to Nepal due to the civil unrest in that country.
Darjeeling and Kalimpong in West Bengal and the state of Sikkim are a part of the Eastern Himalayan region and provide some excellent birding, though few birders venture into Sikkim. This is a tiny area, with fantastic variations. The terrain rises sharply from the plains of Bengal at near sea level to the snow capped Singelila Range rising up to over 8000 meters in elevation - all in crow fly distance of under 100 km. This telescoping of terrain has created distinct altitudinal zones in respect of humidity, rainfall, climate and vegetation. This factor is responsible for the great variety and abundance of the resident bird life, making this area arguably one of the richest areas of its size anywhere in the world. It is estimated that more than 30 percent of the species of the Indian Subcontinent can be spotted in this region.
Sikkim is perched between Nepal in the west, Bhutan in
the east and Tibet (China) in the north.
Sikkim, an extremely mountainous region in the eastern Himalayas, is spread
below the world's third highest mountain Khanchendzonga (8585m) revered by the
Sikkimese as their protective deity. Though measuring just 65 km by 115 km -
the size of Switzerland - it ranges from sweltering deep valleys - a mere 300m
above sea level to lofty snow peaks such as Khanchendzonga. Formerly an independent
kingdom, since 1975 it has been a tiny land-locked province to India.
Sikkim has 600 species of birds, or about half of the over 1200 species to be
found in India.
We made an eight days trekking into the Tholung Valley, an area never visited
by any (western) birder.
FLIGHT
We flew to New Delhi from Amsterdam for € 590 with KLM - service quite
good and flight on time. This flight took approximately 8 hours. The flight
to Bagdogra was with Jet Airways for € 260 return. The time difference
with the Netherlands was 3½ hours.
The security around airports in India was remarkable. Two x-rays and metal detectors,
hand luggage & body search and baggage identification!
VISA
You do need a visa for India, currently € 50. When applying for an India
visa, application must be made for entry to foreign tourists are permitted a
stay of 15 days in Sikkim. I applied for one at the consulate in The Hague.
This is easily obtainable for 15 days. A separate trekking permit is required
for birding treks in Tholung Valley and Gurudongma Tours & Treks took care
of that.
MONEY
The official currency of India is the rupee. Take travelling cheques with you
or cash. The exchange rate at the bank in New Delhi was 4500 Rs to US$100.
FOOD AND DRINK
Many birdwatchers rule out third world destinations as options for holidays
fearing strange food, language barriers, sickness, bugs, and galore and intense
heat. They needn't have any such reservations about Sikkim however.
Bottled mineral water is widely available, stick to this and bottled soft drinks
or Dansberg Blue beer (630cl).
The Indian food is excellent and of a high standard.
HEALTH AND SAFETY
Theft is really not a problem in Sikkim & West Bengal. The people are very
friendly, easy going and helpful. They smile and greet you and almost without
exception respond to a greeting or smile.
For vaccinations consult your own doctor for up to date advice. Generally you
should be immunised or "topped up" against hepatitis A and B, Tetanus,
Typhoid and Polio. In addition to this you are recommended to take Malaria tablets.
We had virtually no health problems and saw surprisingly few mosquitoes, the
only real nuisance being loads of leeches in the Tholung Valley in Sikkim. Leeches
are a real pest and you can pick them up not just in the forest but also in
damp grass (grazing cattle!), often when you least expect it. Although there
is no complete answer to the problem, as precaution wear long trousers tucked
securely into your socks and spray insect repellent liberally on your clothing
and boots! If they do get on to you, you can simply flick or pull them off.
They don't leave their head in you or cause infections.
LANGUAGE
English is a widespread lingua franca and the first language for many educated
people. Nearly everywhere English will get you through.
WEATHER
The weather in Sikkim and West Bengal is extremely variable and can be very
unpredictable as we found out ourselves. We had rain, hail, fog and sunshine,
but most days we had excellent weather. We had one day of hail and rain in Lava
and three days of rain at the Tholung Valley in Sikkim. Be prepared for any
kind of weather!
Most birders visit northeast India between November and April, which is the
"dry " season. April is an are ideal month as residents birds are
in full song and the rich red rhododendron flowers are attractive to the birds,
but most northern migrants are still present. It is best to do as much birding
in the early morning as possible as many species are less active in the afternoon.
EQUIPMENT
A tape recorder and the "Birdsongs of Nepal" and "Birdsongs of
the Himalaya" by Scott Connop are quite useful for drawing in birds. These
tapes can be ordered at Wildsounds in England. E-mail: sales@wildsounds.com
With the help of the tape recorder we played the songs of a few birds. Sometimes
we recorded the song or call and played it back again. A good torch is a must.
A telescope is useful at rivers and very useful for viewing canopy species especially
from roadsides.
TRANSPORT AND ROADS
Road conditions in Sikkim vary, but are generally fairly good, though barely
wide enough for passing other cars, cows, goats and wandering people. The driving
is entertaining unless you are the nervous type. Drivers use the horn the entire
time even when the road is empty. The custom seems to be hoot and let the world
know you are there.
NOMENCLATURE & TAXONOMY
I have decided to follow the English names of James F. Clements (Birds of the
World, A Check List, Fifth Edition, 2000).
COMMON BIRDSPECIES
The following list of birds we saw frequently and if you spend any sort of time
in the right habitats you will too:
Oriental Turtle Dove, Himalayan Swiftlet, Great Barbet, Olive backed Pipit,
Short billed Minivet, Red vented Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Blue Whistling Thrush,
Grey winged Blackbird, Blyth's Leaf Warbler, Golden spectacled Warbler, Grey
hooded Warbler, Rufous gorgeted Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Grey headed
Canary Flycatcher, Blue fronted Redstart, White capped Redstart, Plumbeous Redstart,
Grey Bushchat, Striated Laughingthrush, Rufous capped Babbler, Golden Babbler,
Rufous winged Fulvetta, Rufous Sibia, Whiskered Yuhina, Stripe throated Yuhina,
Green backed Tit, House Crow, Common Myna, Eurasian Tree Sparrow.
For a detailed report of species and numbers please refer to the systematic
list at the end of this report.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Many thanks to Henk Hendriks for providing the tape of Himalayan birdsongs.
REFERENCES
BOOKS
James F. Clements. Birds of the World. A Check List.
B. Grewal. A Photographic Guide to Birds of India and Nepal.
Richard Grimmett, Carol Inskipp, Tim Inskipp. Birds
of the Indian Subcontinent.
Richard Grimmett, Carol Inskipp, Tim Inskipp. Birds of Nepal.
Krys Kazmierczak. A
Field Guide to the Birds of the Indian Subcontinent.
Krys Kazmierczak & Raj Singh. A Birdwatcher's Guide to India.
Michael Walters. Complete Checklist. Vogels van de Wereld.
Nigel Wheatley. Where to watch birds in Asia.
There are two excellent field guides for India: Grimmett,
Inskipp & Inskipp, a field guide-sized set of plates from their 1998 Birds
of the Indian Subcontinent tome with facing page id. text and range maps
for all species, and Kazmierczak
with paintings by my countryman Ber van Perlo, facing page id. text, and range
maps for all species. Quite a lot of artists did the plates in Grimmett et al.;
most of them have more artistic talent to van Perlo who did all the plates in
Kazmierczak.
We tended to use both guides in the beginning. This changed over time. We found
that Kazmierczak's
text was consistently better and more focused on the key state-of-the-art
id. characters, and it included vocalisations (missing from the field guide
version of Grimmett; one must refer to their weighty volume for those details).
And although the artistic talent in Grimmett et al. was more pleasing to the
eye, time and again the van Perlo painting was more accurate. Finally, from
a usage standpoint, the Kazmierczak was far superior with its English index
as the last page, its shortcut to the groupings on each plate inside the front
cover, the placement of range maps adjacent to the plates, and its normal Old
World taxonomic arrangement. Thus, in the end, the Kazmierczak turned out to
be the better field guide for India although one surely needs both guides for
any visit. In many respects both guides are absolute necessities. Time and again
it took the use of the combination of books to come up with the identification
and I still have two mystery birds on my list, although Eric managed to film
both birds.
Krys Kazmierczak's "A Birdwatcher's Guide to India" is very useful
at the planning stage.
REPORTS AND ARTICLES
Seb Buckton and Pete Morris. India and Nepal, December
1989 - June 1990.
Raf Drijvers. India & Nepal, February 1992, December 1993 - May 1994 &
January 1995 - May 1995.
Iwein Mauro. India & Nepal, 14th January - 01 June 1996.
Jon Hornbuckle. Report on a birding trip to Northeast India, 17 February - 21
March 1998.
Henk Hendriks. Northeast India, March 7 - April 20 1998.
Prasad Anand. Lava, Darjeeling, North Bengal India Birding Trip, April - May
1999.
Oriental Bird Club. Indian Birding Itineraries - Darjeeling.
SOFTWARE
BIRDBASE & BIRDAREA
I use this software to keep track of the birds I have seen and to make lists
of any country, labelling endemics and birds previously seen in that country,
outside it, or both. BirdArea can produce checklists of the birds of any country
of Clements' world birds.
USEFUL ADDRESS
Gurudongma Tours & Treks
Gurudongma House
Hilltop
Kalimpong 734301
India
Phone/fax: 91-3552-55204
E-mail: gurutt@sancharnet.in
Website: www.adventuresikkim.com
I cannot praise Gurudongma Tours & Treks enough -
it was an absolutely fabulous trip without any significant
difficulty - pulled off in a difficult and extremely bureaucratic country. Having
Gurudongma Tours & Treks arrange our trip was by far the best decision we
could have made.
ITINERARY
March 29 Chaam * Amsterdam * Delhi
March 30 Delhi * Bagdogra * Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary * Kalimpong
WEST BENGAL
March 31 Kalimpong * Algarah * Lava *Algarah * Kalimpong
April 1 Kalimpong * Algarah * Lava (Rachet Forest) * Algarah * Kalimpong
April 2 Kalimpong * Algarah * Lava (Neora Valley NP) * Algarah * Kalimpong
April 3 Kalimpong * Algarah * Lava (Jeep Track - Neora Valley NP) * Algarah
* Kalimpong
SIKKIM
April 4 Kalimpong * Melli * Namchi * Damthang Forest
* Singtam * Dikchu * Mangan
April 5 Mangan * Lower Tholung Valley * Tsana Wilderness Lodge Camp
April 6 Lower Tholung Valley area
April 7 Tsana Wilderness Lodge Camp * Tholung Gompa * Tholung House Wilderness
Lodge
April 8 Tholung House Wilderness Lodge* Upper Tholung Valley * Temrong Camp
April 9 Temrong Camp * Upper Tholung Valley * Tholung House Wilderness Lodge
April 10 Tholung Gompa area * Hot Springs
April 11 Tholung Gompa * Lower Tholung Valley * Tsana Wilderness Lodge Camp
April 12 Tsana Wilderness Lodge Camp * Mangan * Dikchu * Singtam * Kalimpong
WEST BENGAL
April 13 Kalimpong * Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary * Bagdogra
* Guwahati * Delhi
April 14 Delhi * Amsterdam * Chaam
NOTES ON SITES
The notes about Lava are only information supplementary
to Krys Kazmierczak's excellent "A Birdwatcher's Guide to India",
the essential guide to the bird sites of India.
For a detailed report of species and numbers please refer to the systematic
list at the end of this report.
WEST BENGAL
LAVA & SURROUNDINGS
Lava has been on the birding map for many years and the mid altitude forest
(1600 - 2400m) near the village supports a number of eastern Himalayan specialities.
However birding was restricted to areas close to the main road.
Lava, at an altitude of 2200 metres, 32 km from Kalimpong, is a large forest
village, growing into a small town.
It is an eco-tourism destination. The West Bengal Forest Development Corporation
operates a tourist complex and a Nature Interpretation Centre. Accommodation
is available by prior booking. The village also has some private lodges and
the surrounding areas are covered with large tracts of reserved forests. The
Neora Valley National Park and Rachet Reserve Forest are close by and are wildlife
reserves. Entry is restricted and permits have to be obtained from the Wildlife
Wing.
The forests have rough roads and walking trails. Birding is feasible from the
main roads, however for deeper entry it is advisable to obtain permission and
a guide.
Birds seen here during our trip:
Bar headed Goose, Crested Serpent Eagle, Crested Goshawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk,
Eurasian Buzzard, Black Eagle, Mountain Hawk Eagle, Kalij Pheasant, Oriental
Turtle Dove, Spotted Dove, Barred Cuckoo Dove, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Common Cuckoo,
Oriental Cuckoo, Green billed Malkoha (Kalimpong), Greater Coucal, Brown Wood
Owl (Kalimpong), Asian Barred Owlet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Great Barbet, Golden
throated Barbet, Grey capped Woodpecker, Greater Yellownape, Barn Swallow, Grey
Wagtail, Olive backed Pipit, Black winged Cuckoo Shrike, Short billed Minivet,
Striated Bulbul, White cheeked Bulbul, Red vented Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Maroon
backed Accentor, Chestnut bellied Rock Thrush, Blue Whistling Thrush, Plain
backed Thrush, Grey winged Blackbird, Grey sided Thrush, Dark throated Thrush,
Grey bellied Tesia, Brownish flanked Bush Warbler, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Tickell's
Leaf Warbler, Buff barred Warbler, Ashy throated Warbler, Greenish Warbler,
Blyth's Leaf Warbler, Golden spectacled Warbler, Grey hooded Warbler, Grey cheeked
Warbler, Chestnut crowned Warbler, Black faced Warbler, Broad billed Warbler,
Siberian Flycatcher, Rufous gorgeted Flycatcher, Snowy browed Flycatcher, White
gorgeted Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher, Slaty blue Flycatcher, Sapphire
Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Rufous bellied Niltava, Grey
headed Canary Flycatcher, Red flanked Bluetail, Rufous breasted Bush Robin,
Blue fronted Redstart, White capped Redstart, Plumbeous Redstart, Little Forktail,
Spotted Forktail, Common Stonechat, Grey Bushchat, Yellow bellied Fantail, White
throated Fantail, White throated Laughingthrush, Striated Laughingthrush, Grey
sided Laughing Thrush, Scaly Laughingthrush, Blue winged Laughingthrush, Chestnut
crowned Laughingthrush, Red faced Liocichla, Spot breasted Scimitar Babbler,
Rusty cheeked Scimitar Babbler, White browed Scimitar Babbler, Long billed Wren
Babbler, Rufous throated Scimitar Babbler, Spotted Wren Babbler, Rufous capped
Babbler, Golden Babbler, Grey throated Babbler, Silver eared Mesia, Red billed
Leiothrix, Black headed Shrike Babbler, White browed Shrike Babbler, Black eared
Shrike Babbler, Rusty fronted Barwing, Hoary throated Barwing, Blue winged Minla,
Chestnut tailed Minla, Red tailed Minla, Yellow throated Fulvetta, Rufous winged
Fulvetta, White browed Fulvetta, Nepal Fulvetta, Rufous Sibia, White naped Yuhina,
Whiskered Yuhina, Stripe throated Yuhina, Rufous vented Yuhina, Black throated
Tit, Black browed Tit, Coal Tit, Green backed Tit, Yellow cheeked Tit, Yellow
browed Tit, White tailed Nuthatch, Eurasian Treecreeper, Rusty flanked Treecreeper,
Brown throated Treecreeper, Green tailed Sunbird, Fire tailed Sunbird, Little
Spiderhunter, Bay backed Shrike, Long tailed Shrike, Ashy Drongo, Hair crested
Drongo (Kalimpong), Green Magpie, Grey Treepie, House Crow, Large billed Crow,
Common Myna, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, White rumped Munia, Plain Mountain Finch,
Crimson browed Finch, Dark breasted Rosefinch, Dark rumped Rosefinch, Tibetan
Serin, Brown Bullfinch, Red headed Bullfinch, Gold naped Finch, Little Bunting.
Other birds that can be seen:
Hill Partridge, Rufous throated Partridge, Satyr Tragopan, Wedge tailed Green
Pigeon, Speckled Wood Pigeon, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Emerald Dove, Lesser Cuckoo,
Mountain Scops Owl, Fork Tailed Swift, Ward's Trogon, Great Hornbill, White
browed Piculet, Crimson breasted Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Long tailed
Broadbill, Mountain Bulbul, Orange bellied Leafbird, Long billed Thrush, Chestnut
Thrush, Eyebrowed Thrush, Dusky Thrush, Rusty bellied Shortwing, Gould's Shortwing,
Lesser Shortwing, White browed Shortwing, Chestnut headed Tesia, Slat bellied
Tesia, Russet Bush Warbler, White spectacled Warbler, Pygmy Blue Flycatcher,
Golden Bush Robin, White browed Bush Robin, Blue fronted Robin, Spotted Laughingthrush,
Coral billed Scimitar Babbler, Scaly breasted Wren Babbler, Cutia, Golden breasted
Fulvetta, Fire tailed Myzornis, Black Throated Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter,
Fire breasted Flowerpecker, Maroon Oriole, Common Rosefinch, Red Crossbill.
MAHANANDA WILLIFE SANCTUARY
The Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary constitutes the terai and bhabar forests of
the lower catchment area of the Mahananda river and covers an area of 160 km2.
The main road from Bagdogra to Kalimpong passes through this sanctuary, but
foreigners need written permission from the office of the Chief Wildlife Warden
in Calcutta to bird anywhere other than along the road.
We had not planned to visit this area so we had to make a short stroll along
the road and spent two hours at a picnic site in the park. We did not see many
birds, but I am sure that given time we would have seen many more birds.
Birds seen here during our trip:
Lesser Adjutant, Red naped Ibis, Black Baza, Oriental Honey Buzzard, Black Kite,
White rumped Vulture, Slender billed Vulture, Crested Serpent Eagle, Besra,
Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Buzzard, Eurasian Kestrel, Oriental Turtle Dove,
Red breasted Parakeet, Asian Koel, Green billed Malkoha, Greater Coucal, Chestnut
headed Bee eater, Indian Roller, Eurasian Hoopoe, Indian Grey Hornbill, Great
Barbet, Scarlet Minivet, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Red vented Bulbul, Jungle Babbler,
Black hooded Oriole, Long tailed Shrike, Hair crested Drongo, Rufous Treepie,
Large billed Crow, House Crow, Common Hill Myna, Common Myna, Asian Pied Starling,
White rumped Munia.
SIKKIM
THOLUNG VALLEY
The mossy oak rhododendron forests, coniferous forests and bamboo stands in
the Tholung Valley support some beautiful East Himalayan specialities. We were
the first (western) birders ever visiting this area!
The Tholung Valley is located in the shadow of the almost 6900m high Siniolchu
and the 5200m Lamo Anden.
This valley is virtually uninhabited with a minuscule population (less than
50) of Lamas, yak herdsmen, wood cutters, cow and sheep grazers.
The valley is approximately 540 km2 in area. The upper reaches comprise glaciers,
snow clad peaks, alpine lakes, moraine and meadows. The lower half of the valley
has mixed open forest with amazing biodiversity. The altitudinal variation,
variety of trees and shrubs, lack of human population and vehicular traffic
combine to make it a haven for birds, and a prime birding site. A very good
walking trail (lower part of the valley) with offshoots of grazing trails provides
access for birding. The entire length of the walking trail from Lingsha to Tholung
Gompa is a birding hot spot. Productive birding is also available for about
3 km on the trail connecting Be with Lingsha.
The one frustration was not being able to go above 3000m where a number of the
high altitude Himalayan specialities occur.
Under normal circumstances the route is open in April, but sometimes there is
un-seasonal snow above 3000 meters.
Birds seen here during our trip:
Crested Serpent Eagle, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Northern Goshawk, Upland Buzzard,
Satyr Tragopan, Kalij Pheasant, Whimbrel, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Oriental Turtle
Dove, Large Hawk Cuckoo, Asian Koel, Greater Coucal, Brown Wood Owl, Asian Barred
Owlet, Himalayan Swiftlet, Fork tailed Swift, House Swift, Great Barbet, Golden
throated Barbet, Rufous bellied Woodpecker, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Crimson breasted
Woodpecker, Bay Woodpecker, Yellow rumped Honeyguide, Nepal Martin, Citrine
Wagtail, Olive backed Pipit, Rosy Pipit, Black winged Cuckoo Shrike, Short billed
Minivet, Striated Bulbul, Red vented Bulbul, Black Bulbul, Orange bellied Leafbird,
Winter Wren, Blue capped Rock Thrush, Chestnut bellied Rock Thrush, Blue Whistling
Thrush, Plain backed Thrush, Long tailed Thrush, Scaly Thrush, White collared
Blackbird, Grey winged Blackbird, White browed Shortwing, Striated Prinia, Hill
Prinia, Chestnut headed Tesia, Slaty bellied Tesia, Brownish flanked Bush Warbler,
Tickell's Leaf Warbler, Buff barred Warbler, Ashy throated Warbler, Lemon rumped
Warbler, Large billed Leaf Warbler, Blyth's Leaf Warbler, Yellow vented Warbler,
Golden spectacled Warbler, Grey hooded Warbler, Chestnut crowned Warbler, Ferruginous
Flycatcher, Rufous gorgeted Flycatcher, Snowy browed Flycatcher, White gorgeted
Flycatcher, Little Pied Flycatcher, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Slaty blue Flycatcher,
Verditer Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Small Niltava, Rufous bellied Niltava, Grey
headed Canary Flycatcher, Blue fronted Redstart, White capped Redstart, Plumbeous
Redstart, Little Forktail, Spotted Forktail, Common Stonechat, Grey Bushchat,
Yellow bellied Fantail, White throated Laughingthrush, Striated Laughingthrush,
Scaly Laughingthrush, Black faced Laughingthrush, Pygmy Wren Babbler, Spotted
Wren Babbler, Rufous capped Babbler, Golden Babbler, Cutia, White browed Shrike
Babbler, Black eared Shrike Babbler, Hoary throated Barwing, Blue winged Minla,
Chestnut tailed Minla, Red tailed Minla, Rufous winged Fulvetta, White browed
Fulvetta, Nepal Fulvetta, Rufous Sibia, White naped Yuhina, Whiskered Yuhina,
Stripe throated Yuhina, Rufous vented Yuhina, Black throated Tit, Green backed
Tit, Yellow cheeked Tit, Yellow browed Tit, White tailed Nuthatch, Rusty flanked
Treecreeper, Wallcreeper, Gould's Sunbird, Green tailed Sunbird, Black throated
Sunbird, Fire tailed Sunbird, Little Spiderhunter, Streaked Spiderhunter, Fire
breasted Flowerpecker, Maroon Oriole, Grey backed Shrike, Black Drongo, Ashy
Drongo, Gold billed Magpie, Grey Treepie, White rumped Munia, Plain Mountain
Finch, Black headed Mountain Finch, Dark breasted Rosefinch, Scarlet Finch,
Other birds that can be seen:
Black Eagle, Himalayan Monal, Spotted Dove, Snow Pigeon, Slaty headed Parakeet,
White rumped Needletail, Greater Yellownape, Lesser Yellownape, Long tailed
Shrike, Green Magpie, Grey Chinned Minivet, Small Minivet, White Eared Bulbul,
White cheeked Bulbul, Mountain Bulbul, Striated Yuhina, White Crested Laughingthrush,
Pygmy Blue Flycatcher, Yellow bellied Warbler, Black faced Warbler, White browed
Tit Warbler, Rufous breasted Bush Robin, Grey crested Tit, Sultan Tit.
TEESTA RIVER VALLEY
En route from Bagdogra - Kalimpong and during our drive from Kalimpong to Mangan
in Sikkim we drove quite a while along this river. It is worthwhile to stop
here a few times and check the river banks.
Birds seen here during our trip:
Great Cormorant, Great Egret, Indian Pond Heron, Eurasian Buzzard, Shikra, Red
Junglefowl, River Lapwing, Green billed Malkoha, White throated Kingfisher,
Crested Kingfisher, Chestnut headed Bee eater, Indian Roller, Dollarbird, Great
Barbet, Greater Yellownape, Black backed Wagtail, Small Minivet, Scarlet Minivet,
Black crested Bulbul, White cheeked Bulbul, Red vented Bulbul, Black Bulbul,
Golden fronted Leafbird, Orange bellied Leafbird, Common Iora, Blue Rock Thrush,
Chestnut bellied Rock Thrush, White capped Redstart, Hair crested Drongo, Green
Magpie, Himalayan Swiftlet, Oriental White eye.
Other birds that can be seen:
Kalij Pheasant, Ibisbill (winter), Small Pratincole, Pin tailed Green Pigeon,
Blyth's Kingfisher, Pale headed Woodpecker, Rufous bellied Niltava, Common Hill
Myna.
DAMTHANG FOREST
En route from Kalimpong to Mangan we made a short stop at this forest near the
very small village of Damthang.
A very good walking trail in the centre of the village provides easy access
for birding.
Birds seen here during our trip:
Eurasian Buzzard, Eurasian Kestrel, Green billed Malkoha, Dollarbird, Black
winged Cuckoo Shrike, Short billed Minivet, Chestnut bellied Rock Thrush, Blue
Whistling Thrush, Grey winged Blackbird, Buff barred Warbler, Blyth's Leaf Warbler,
Golden spectacled Warbler, Grey hooded Warbler, Black faced Warbler, Rufous
gorgeted Flycatcher, Verditer Flycatcher, Rufous bellied Niltava, Grey headed
Canary Flycatcher, Red flanked Bluetail, Blue fronted Redstart, Grey Bushchat,
White throated Fantail, White crested Laughingthrush, Chestnut tailed Minla,
Red tailed Minla, Rufous Sibia, Whiskered Yuhina, Rufous vented Yuhina, Black
throated Tit, Green backed Tit, Chestnut bellied Nuthatch, Green tailed Sunbird,
Ashy Drongo, Maroon Oriole, Brown Bullfinch.
DAILY LOG
Friday 29 March
Our trip started with a KLM flight from Amsterdam to Delhi. We landed at the
airport around midnight (3½ hours time difference with the Netherlands).
We then took a taxi and spent the night at the nearby very expensive Radisson
Hotel.
Saturday 30 March
We left Delhi at 10.00 a.m. for our two hours spectacular flight along the southern
flank of the Himalayas to Bagdogra in West Bengal. Peter Lobo was waiting with
a jeep for us at the airport. En route to Kalimpong we made a short stop at
the Mahananda WLS. Amongst the birds we did see here were a group of Slender
billed Vultures, Red breasted Parakeet, Indian Roller, Indian Grey Hornbill,
Great Barbet and Scarlet Minivet.
In the late afternoon we arrived in Kalimpong, a sleepy little town in West
Bengal, tucked away in the foothills of the eastern Himalayas. At an altitude
of 1250 metres, the picturesque town of Kalimpong is definitely a place to visit
in this region. Once a part of Sikkim, this town was an important centre for
trade and commerce for Tibetans from the north and the headquarters of the Governor
of Bhutan. During our visit to West Bengal we stayed at General J.M. "Jimmy"
Singh's house on the Hilltop with a breath taking view of the eastern Himalayas.
We made a walk on the Hilltop and amongst the birds we encountered were Green
billed Malkoha, Asian Barred Owlet, White cheeked Bulbul, Common Tailorbird,
Blyth's Leaf Warbler, Blue fronted Redstart, Hair crested Drongo and the ubiquitous
Green backed Tit.
On our first evening, luxuriating in this plenitude, a beer in hand I felt euphorically
divorced from the frenzy and frenetic lunacy of my everyday world.
Sunday 31 March
After a refreshing night's sleep we started early on our second day and found
us en route to the little known resort of Lava and I noted with satisfaction
that the skies were clear and Khanchendzonga loomed grey on the horizon, a featureless
silhouette.
We were soon in the forest on a perfect spring morning and the first few hours
we spent on the lower part of the Algarah road. Quite a variety of birds frequented
this area amongst them Asian Barred Owlet, a Greater Yellownape that dwarfed
the diminutive Grey capped Woodpecker, Black winged Cuckoo Shrike, Grey winged
Blackbird, Dark throated Thrush and White throated Laughingthrush whilst overhead
we saw a group of Bar headed Geese flying north. A mobile Green Magpie did its
best to stay just out of reach, but best of all however was a Red faced Liocichla,
a difficult to find bird in the Himalayas, which gave good views.
We walked along the road from km 7 to Lava. Here we saw the vociferous Sibia
and our first flocks of Red tailed and Chestnut tailed Minlas. There was much
activity and amongst the other birds we saw were Buff barred, Grey hooded, Grey
cheeked, Chestnut crowned Warbler, the demure Black faced Warbler, a single
Broad billed Warbler, a pair of Black headed Shrike Babblers, White browed Shrike
Babbler, Black eared Shrike Babbler, Grey sided Laughingthrush, Rusty fronted
Barwing, Whiskered, Stripe throated & Rufous vented Yuhina.
It was already noon when we arrived at Lava and here we made a stroll in the
superb Paktham Forest. There was less activity, but we added Plain backed Thrush,
Large & Rufous bellied Niltava, the rare Rufous breasted Bush Robin and
Gold naped Finch to our rapidly growing list.
After a warm lunch under a shady tree in the forest, the late afternoon saw
us again birding along the Algarah Road (km 2 - 7) adding Little Pied Flycatcher,
Spot breasted Scimitar Babbler, Rufous capped Babbler, Red billed Leiothrix,
Blue winged Minla, Yellow browed Tit and Nepal Fulvetta to our fast growing
bird list.
We then returned to Kalimpong, where Tara, General Singh's housekeeper, had
prepared a wonderful dinner for us.
Monday 1 April
It rained heavily during the night, but again the skies were clear when we left
Kalimpong at 4.45 a.m.
The Rachet Forest Reserve near Lava was our destination today. We arrived at
6.30 and we followed the trail and began to explore the excellent forest. April
Fool's Day was no joke and we spent all morning in this forest and although
most of it was secondary forest, we saw many birds amongst them Kalij Pheasant,
Grey bellied Tesia, Brownish flanked Bush Warbler, Tickell's Leaf Warbler, Sapphire
Flycatcher, White tailed Robin, Streak breasted Scimitar Babbler, Long billed
& Spotted Wren Babbler, Grey throated Babbler, Hoary throated Barwing, Rusty
flanked Treecreeper, Little Spiderhunter, a party of Maroon backed Accentors,
Dark rumped Rosefinch, a large group of Dark breasted Rosefinches and Tibetan
Serins.
A small waterfall hosted a Spotted Forktail and while having lunch we admired
a pair of displaying Crested Goshawks.
In the afternoon we again headed to the Algarah road and spent the rest of the
day here. We saw a lot of birds and amongst the 'new' ones we saw were Rufous
throated Wren Babbler, Chestnut crowned Laughingthrush and Red headed Bullfinch.
In the evening the general again entertained us with great stories about his
military career.
Tuesday 2 April
At 5.00 o'clock we headed to the Neora Valley near Lava. In Lava we saw a single
Little Bunting and a large group of Plain backed Mountain Finches. We started
our birding day in beautiful weather and amongst the birds we saw before 10
a.m. were Blue winged Laughingthrush, Yellow throated & White browed Fulvetta
and Brown Bullfinch. Eric was able to film a party of very obliging Red headed
Bullfinches at less than three metres. Other memorable encounters included a
small party of Crimson browed Finches and several more stunning Fire tailed
Sunbirds. Hereafter the temperature dropped and we had rain and hail till midday
and had to seek shelter in our jeep.
We then headed to the Paktham Forest and made a stroll in the forest. We again
encountered a few large foraging flocks with Rusty fronted Barwing, Chestnut
tailed Minla, Red tailed Minla, Rufous winged Fulvetta, Whiskered Yuhina, Stripe
throated Yuhina, Green backed Tit amongst them, whilst overhead we saw a Black
Eagle and many Himalayan Swiftlets.
Wednesday 3 April
We set off very early the following morning for our last day in the Lava area.
Our search for the Blue fronted Robin in the gully failed miserably and hereafter
we headed to the Jeep Track. This track was very disappointing, as there was
hardly any forest left and we did not see many birds. Amongst the birds seen
here were Mountain Hawk Eagle, Little Forktail and Little Pied Flycatcher.
Heavy rain and hail started again and the Algarah road was very slippery. Luck
was with us as we obtained good views of a Grey sided Thrush and a few km before
we reached Algarah we saw a group of beautiful Silver eared Mesias.
In the late afternoon we visited an old fort near Algarah and here we added
Barred Cuckoo Dove and Rusty cheeked Scimitar Babbler to our trip list.
Thursday 4 April
A travel day. Next morning clear conditions gave us an unparalleled view of
the main Himalayan range in Sikkim and we started our long drive to our next
destination. Two Red Junglefowls walking on the road marked our entrance into
the Teesta Valley in Sikkim, where other notable events included a flight view
of a Crested Kingfisher and superb views of Black crested Bulbul, Golden fronted
Leafbird, Common Iora and a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes.
Heading north we came to the very small village of Damthang where we visited
the nearby forest. Working this mountain was not easy but we eventually managed
to locate Green billed Malkoha, Black faced Warbler, Rufous belied Niltava,
Rufous vented Yuhina, Brown Bullfinch and best of all two very obliging Maroon
Orioles.
En route to the Teesta Valley we had excellent views of a noisy group of White-crested
Laughingthrushes and two Dollarbirds. In the late afternoon we arrived at the
small town of Mangan, where we stayed in the relative luxury of a private house
of an aunt of Joe, our trekking leader in the Tholung Valley.
We ended our day with a short walk in the hills above Mangan, where we had good
views of our only Crested Bunting of the trip.
Friday 5 April
At 5.00 a.m. we were picked up by a jeep and headed to the Tholung Valley. The
very rough road down to the valley was very much a 4-wheel drive road and we
only made moderate progress. After a two hours trip the very rough road ended
and we had breakfast at a local farm in Lingsha. Then our trek started: 10 porters,
a cook, a guide and 3 handy men accompanied us. The route was an upward climb,
strewn with boulders, the first three kilometres not smooth at all.
In the mixed open forest a wealth of species were to vie for our attentions
amongst them Asian Barred Owlet, Fork tailed Swift, Golden throated Barbet,
Blue capped Rock Thrush, Striated Prinia, Ferruginous Flycatcher, White gorgeted
Flycatcher, White browed Shrike Babbler, Gould's Sunbird, Black throated Sunbird
and Streaked Spiderhunter.
We probably saw a Yellow rumped Honeyguide guarding a Rock Bee colony, but the
distance was too far to positively identify the bird even with a telescope.
At 2.00 p.m. we arrived at the Tsana Wilderness Lodge (1750m), actually a fairly
large log cabin. This was to be our first night halt.
After lunch we made a stroll in the open area around the cabin and along the
Ringpi Chu River. Skulkers such as Slaty bellied Tesia and Pygmy Wren Babbler
were seen, the last one coming so close that it was impossible to focus out.
Along the river we had excellent views of Fire breasted Flowerpeckers and a
single Crimson breasted Woodpecker.
The night we spent in the Buddha room of the "lodge".
Saturday 6 April
We slept well and woke up to a bright day with clear sunshine. We spent all
day in the vicinity of our lodge (1500 - 2000m). The habitat was superb and
this area was very birdy and produced some excellent birds. Many of the species
were of course the same ones as at Lava, such as Grey hooded Warbler, Snowy
browed Flycatcher, Siberian Flycatcher, Golden Babbler and Dark breasted Rosefinch.
However we encountered 'new' species and amongst them were Yellow vented Warbler
- a rare and little known Phylloscopus - and Small Niltava, Scaly Laughingthrush,
Gold billed Magpie and the stunning Scarlet Finch.
Sunday 7 April
Rising early to climb up towards Tholung Gompa we entered the mossy oak forest.
The birding during the early morning hours was slow, with hardly any new sightings
at all. As we climbed the mountain a pair of Bay Woodpeckers was a good find
and other birds included Darjeeling Woodpecker, Hill Prinia, Large billed Leaf
Warbler, Little Forktail and Hoary throated Barwing. We heard a Cutia calling,
but failed to find this most wanted species.
The last kilometres the track was very steep. It was passed 2.00 p.m. when we
reached Tholung Gompa (2400m).
Vital paid a visit to the monastery, not a large one and very well maintained.
The small Tholung Gompa area is small and boasts only a handful of houses and
here we saw our first Yaks and many leeches. We put our stuff in the Tholung
Gompa Wilderness Lodge.
The rest of the day we explored the Tholung Gompa area where Rosy Pipits flitted
about and White collared Blackbird, Chestnut headed Tesia and Plain Mountain
Finch were amongst many species all seen well.
We spent the night at a cabin near the monastery. The nights were cold in the
upper Tholung Valley and we needed to tuck up with hot water bottles.
Monday 8 April
Next morning it was very cloudy and we were climbing again. The weather started
worsening and we still had a steep upward climb ahead of us. At some places
there was no clear trail and we had to plod through forests of varying density,
uneven rocks and through downward flowing streams. The only salve the route
offered were the flowering rhododendrons and the many birds these flowers attracted.
Black faced Laughingthrushes sang sweetly from the rhododendron scrub and hopped
across the track in plain view to us all. The wail of a Satyr Tragopan was heard
a few times, but it refused to come out. Amongst the other birds we encountered
were Upland Buzzard, Hoary throated Barwing, Nepal Fulvetta and Stripe throated
& Rufous vented Yuhina.
The last part of our trekking we had to cross a few glaciers, but we all made
it across in one piece. It was past 3.00 p.m. when we reached Temrong Camp (2950m).
The porters erected our sleeping tents and made a campfire complete with folding
chairs and tables. The rest of the day we birded in the vicinity of the camp
noting Darjeeling Woodpecker, Rosy Pipit, Winter Wren, Slaty blue Flycatcher
and Plain Mountain Finch.
Just after "dinner ', it started raining again and a hailstorm followed
soon after. We slunk into our tents, wondering if we had been so off-key that
the mountain gods had decided to step in and make us stop.
Tuesday 9 April
Next morning, we woke up to ice on our tents. The sky was not clear, but the
rain had stopped. We started birding and we had great views of Rusty flanked
Treecreeper and Scaly Thrush. However, by eight a.m., the skies became overcast
again and the light faded quickly, followed by rain. We had become used to these
sudden changes and continued birding.
Going down we came upon a landslide blocking our path. A wide swathe of the
track had been washed away and the surface looked treacherously slippery. But
the only way to go was ahead. Our handy men built a new "bridge" and
we managed to cross the stream. Our shoes were soaked and the conditions were
beginning to tell on our bodies (and our minds). When we arrived at the lodge,
we started to dry out our shoes and wet kits over the fire in our bedroom.
In the afternoon we made a stroll in the vicinity of the monastery and had great
views of the rare Long tailed Thrush and a very tame first summer Black headed
Mountain Finch, a real surprise at this height. Eric was able to film the bird
at less than one metre!
Wednesday 10 April
Next morning the sky was clear and we made a walk to the nearby hot springs
on the other side of the river. We had to cross the river on a wooden suspension
bridge I did not trust, but we made it with a whole skin.
It was worthwhile the "risk" and we were successful in obtaining excellent
views of Ashy headed Wood Pigeon, Bay Woodpecker, Plain backed Thrush, Scaly
Thrush, Chestnut headed Tesia, Pygmy Wren Babbler, Lemon rumped Warbler and
White browed Fulvetta. However, the undoubted highlight of the day was a pair
of very co-operative White browed Shortwings only two metres away almost at
eye level.
The weather gods did not smile for the next two days and in the afternoon the
mountains hid behind a pall of thick, impenetrable clouds and then consistent
heavy rain sabotaged further birding, driving us back into the cover of our
cabin.
Later on we were drinking the local "chang" beer at the campfire,
but I preferred the lager beer.
Thursday 11 April
Early the following morning we took a bird walk in the forest near the hot springs
and saw a good variety of birds amongst them Golden spectacled Warbler, Rufous
gorgeted Flycatcher, White throated Laughingthrush, Black throated Tit, Yellow
browed Tit and Ashy Drongo. After breakfast we took the walk downhill to the
Tsana Wilderness Lodge.
We heard the Cutia twice, but again failed to find the bird, no doubt the greatest
disappointment of our trip.
A little disheartened we left the mossy oak forest. During the rest of the walk
downhill we had a flight view of a Rufous bellied Woodpecker and other memorable
birds we encountered were Tickell's Leaf Warbler, Yellow bellied Fantail, Scaly
Laughingthrush, Spotted Wren Babbler and Grey backed Shrike.
However, as the day progressed the rain started and became worse and worse and
we had to stay a while in the log cabin.
Despite the rain we saw some good birds near the cabin amongst them a real surprise,
Ultramarine Flycatcher!
Friday 12 April
After breakfast the next morning we took four hours to walk the 8-km to Lingsha.
We had excellent weather and amongst the many birds seen were Crested Serpent
Eagle, Striated & Hill Prinia, a male Ultramarine Flycatcher, Large Niltava,
Blue winged Minla, Maroon Oriole and Nepal Martin.
At Linsha we said goodbye to Joe and the porters and a jeep transferred us to
Mangan, en route adding a beautiful Wallcreeper to our trip list.
On our way back to West Bengal we made a few stops in the Teesta River Valley
adding Great Cormorant, River Lapwing and Black backed Wagtail to our list.
In the late afternoon we arrived at Kalimpong for our goodbye dinner at the
general's house.
Saturday/Sunday 13/14 April
At 6.00 a.m. we left General Singh's house and headed to Bagdogra for our Jet
Airways flight to New Delhi. Our last birding morning was warm and sunny and
the trip now almost over, our final stop on the way to the airport was at Mahananda
WLS.
We walked along the road and also spent two hours at a picnic site. We saw a
rich variety of birds in the sanctuary, adding Lesser Adjutant, Red naped Ibis,
Black Baza, Besra, Greater Coucal, Large Cuckoo Shrike, Black hooded Oriole
and Common Hill Myna to our birding tally.
At 13.30 we left Bagdogra and flew via Guwahati to Delhi. We left India at midnight
and returned to The Netherlands at Schiphol airport at 6.15 in the morning.
Sikkim is a fabulous country, the name of the state derived
form Sukhim meaning "happy home, a place of peace".
And indeed the people are a delight, amazingly friendly and genuinely warm.
The culture is so different, the scenery varied and spectacular and the birding
was great.
Amongst a host of good birds seen, highlights for me were some quite difficult
to find species including Grey sided & Long tailed Thrush, Broad billed
Warbler, Yellow vented Warbler, Ultramarine Flycatcher, Rufous breasted Bush
Robin, Black headed Shrike Babbler and Black headed Mountain Finch. However
we still failed to find a bunch of good birds, e.g. Rusty bellied Shortwing,
Blue fronted Robin, Fire tailed Myzornis and Golden breasted Fulvetta, while
Gould's Shortwing, Long billed & Dusky Thrush were seen by an English birder
(in fact the only birder we saw during the trip) in Lava, while we were there.
Sometimes I get the feeling we are just a bunch of "great dippers".
The final total for the two weeks trip was 238 species of birds and I finished
the trip with 73 lifers.
Chaam, 30 April 2002,
If you need any help or further information, contact me at the following address and I'll try and help if I can!
Jan Vermeulen
Bredaseweg 14
4861 AH Chaam
The Netherlands
Telephone: (031) - 161 - 491327
E-mail:jem.vermeulen@wxs.nl
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