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A Report from

Indonesia 2001,

Phil and Charlotte Benstead, Norfolk, UK


We spent the period between 5th June and 13th October 2001 birding in Indonesia, visiting sites on Sumatra, Java, Bali, Sulawesi, Sanghie, Talaud, Sumba, Flores, Komodo and Sumbawa. Indonesia is fantastic birding, the high level of endemism and the overall diversity (cultural and biological) throughout the country make it a stunning destination. It is hard work though, the archipelago that makes up this country is vast and consists of over 13,000 islands. The birds are well-spread across the country and to see the majority of them would be the work of a lifetime. Got to give a go though haven't you? Additionally many areas are very poorly covered and discoveries still remain to be made - for example at least five new species of bird have been discovered in Wallacea in the last 20 years. Keep notes of what you see and you will undoubtedly add to the knowledge of the ornithology of the region.

The downside is that Indonesia is politically very unstable and has been wracked by internal troubles in the recent past. Our itinerary was to a certain extent dictated by these various problems. Malaku is currently off-limits so sadly Halmahera (reputed to be the finest birding in the world) was off-limits. Keep you ear to the ground and look at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office website if you are concerned about  your safety in specific areas. We had a presidential impeachment (peaceful and the second of our whole trip) and the backlash from the bombing of Afghanistan to deal with but got through it all OK. Best to register with the British Embassy if the political climate looks bad, usually though foreigners are unaffected by internal political struggles. One thing that will affect you, if you visit Indonesia, is the effect of the recent de-centralisation of government which appears to have negatively impacted on the management and protection of National Parks in many areas. A lot of illegal logging is going on as a result.

We used the handy book by Paul Jepson Birding Indonesia and two antique reports by the late Tim Andrews (1989 - Birding in Indonesia) and Dave Gibbs (1993 - Wallacea) - both excellent but well out of date now. Most sites are we visited are well covered in the Jepson book so we do not give too many logistical details. If you are visiting Sumatra try and get hold of Verbelen's superb trip report for this island. If you are planning a lengthy tour in Indonesia make sure you have a well-stocked first-aid kit - we needed ours a lot!

You only get a two month visa for Indonesia so if you plan to stay longer you have to go out and back in again. We flew Java to Singapore to renew our visas, the cheapest option by a long way (GBP60-80 return with Emirates). We also used many internal flights with Garuda and Merpati and these are best booked in-country. We were served well by Vayatour in Bogor (Gedung Setyajaya Lt. 2, Jalan Raya Pajarajan No. 23, Bogor 16143, Indonesia. Tel: 0251 356861. Fax: 0251 356865. email If you find a friendly immigration office somewhere in Indonesia that will extend tourist visas please let me know!

We send our  special thanks to Pete Wood and Anny Andaryati for adopting us during our time in Bogor and allowing us the use of their house, car and driver whilst on Java. Thanks also go to Pete Hayman who spent a six week period with us and was excellent company and provided a lot of added value on the birding front. We also thank Frank Lambert, Liz and the Cam-dude, Pete Wood and Anny, Andy Adcock and Bob Roberts for their company in the field at various points. Dominique Verbelen and Edward Vercruysse kindly supplied much needed gen and tapes for Sumatra. On the domestic front we were well catered for by a number of Indonesian guesthouse operators and guides and would especially like to thank again Pak Subandi (Gunung Kerinci), Freddy (Gunung Gede), Wesley (Sanghie) and Henrik (Ujung Pandang) for their time and effort.

Site details

8/6 - 19/6  Gunung Kerinci (Sumatra)
Arrived in Indonesia via ferry from Singapore and spent two days getting from Batanta to Gunung Kerinci. Spent a lengthy period here staying with Pak Subandi. Frank Lambert came up and birded with us the first weekend. Birding here was good but birds shy and at low density and signs that many are being trapped out. Did see most of the specialities but failed miserably with the cochoa, peacock-pheasant and the pitta. It transpired later that both Frank and I were suffering from typhoid! Hard work but good value. Highlights included; red-billed partridge, Salvadori's pheasant, pale-headed frogmouth, Sumatran green pigeon, Sumatran trogon, whistling-thrushes, Sunda warbler, Sunda blue robin and long-billed wren-babbler.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus from nearby Sungei Penuh to Keresik Tuo. Get dropped off at Pak Subandi's Homestay. This is one of the most pleasant homestays we stayed in Indonesia and very good value. Subandi and family are used to catering for birders and will provide packed lunches and give you a lift to the start of the trail up the volcano before dawn. Ask to see the logbook for the latest information. Bird the trail that leads up the mountain and ask Subandi for a lift to the Letter W waterfall one afternoon for giant swiftlet. We struggled here partly due to illness but also because this is very hard birding. We got very close to seeing the pitta and the cochoa but failed. Trapping here is sadly reducing the number of laughing-thrushes and pheasants. Allow plenty of time here if you want to clean up. Do not ignore warnings from the locals if the volcano is active (as it was when we were here) - we were advised not to go near the summit.


20/6 - 22/6      Mauro Sako (Sumatra)
Spent a day birding the road and did not hear any graceful pittas. We did get the bulbuls, drongo  and blue-masked leafbird though and saw a good selection of other birds but I was starting to feel quite unwell at this point. After a 36 hour bus journey to Bandar Lampung I collapsed in a heap and was diagnosed with typhoid and ordered to bed for ten days!

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Take a bus from Sungei Penuh for the short hop to Mauro Sako. Get dropped off at the restaurant in town and contact the kepala desa for a place to stay the night. We were well looked after here. Hitch/walk back up the hill to near the pass and walk back down to the village looking for the specialities. Graceful pitta is staked out here but the road menders had removed all the km posts when we were here so we could not find the site! See the logbook at Pak Subandi's for details.


5/7 - 9/7  Way Kambas (Sumatra)
Felt a little shaky after my run-in with typhoid so took it pretty easy. Mostly birded at night and did rather well; large frogmouth (4+ sightings), Gould's frogmouth (1), reddish Scops-owl (1) and heard tiger! Also managed to see a white-winged wood-duck which was one of the birds of the trip for me. Other birds of note included Storm's stork (excellent views on the deck) and cinnamon-headed green pigeon.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus from Bandar Lampung to Raja Basalam. From there we hired motorbike taxis to take us to the Way Kanan Ranger Post (about 20 km). Get your permits at the check post on the way in and pray that there will be accommodation available when you arrive. The guesthouse is rather run-down. Take all your food in with you and cook in the staff kitchen by the main building. We took a guide into the swamp one morning and saw a single white-winged wood-duck. The loop trial is quiet but is a good place to see Sumatran tiger (we dipped but heard one at night - you may be luckier). There is a small pool along the loop track, approach this with caution as if often holds a Storm's stork. We spent most of our time birding at night along the access track.


9/7 - 12/7 Carita (Java)
Met up with Pete Wood and Pete Hayman here and spent a long night searching for a calling Javan frogmouth but I think our torches were not bright enough to pick it out. It was so close. I had a relapse of typhoid to contend with here so things did not go too well. Did manage to see white-breasted babbler but only heard black-banded barbet.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
The logistics of getting to this site are well covered in Jepson's book. We birded the main drag to the waterfall and saw a few birds. Pretty disappointing though and if you have time I would visit Gunung Halimun (has the babbler) and Pangandaran (has the barbet) instead.


14/7  Maura Angke and Pulau Rambut (Java)
Borrowed a friend's driver and car and went for a day out with Pete Hayman. First stop was the small beleaguered wetland of Maura Angke in Jakarta. Allegedly a site for the scarce Javan coucal. We sadly failed to score but did see a number of new birds for the trip including Sunda teal, Javan plover, small blue kingfisher and Horsfield's bronze cuckoo. Spent the afternoon taking a boat out to Pulau Rambut which was crawling with pied imperial pigeons as well as hosting a big colony of waterbirds (ibises, storks, cormorants and herons).

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Both sites covered in Jepson's book. We covered both in a day with the aid of a car. At Maure Anke concentrate on the are around the observation tower for the coucal (they can be difficult though).


17/7 - 20/7     Megah Indah, Gunung Halimun National Park (Java)
On the first day Annie, Pete Hayman and I went up to a posh housing estate at Megah Indah where Pete Wood had recently seen Javan kingfisher. We were not disappointed and soon found a pair flying around and perching for us. Also had orange-spotted bulbul here. Later the same day we all headed for Gunung Halimun National Park. This place was good and is at a slightly lower altitude than Gunung Gede. It produced the birds we hoped for proving good for dark-backed imperial pigeon, Javan trogon, white-bellied fantail and white-breasted babbler, as well as some of the commoner endemics.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Megah Indah housing estate is on the left as you drive up to Gunung Gede. It is about 4 km before the Safari Park - the left turning just after a mosque with an unusual geometric roof design. There is a check-point but the guard will probably let you through.

We accessed the Gunung Halimun NP via the Citralahab/Cikaniki entrance. From Bogor take the Sukabumi road until you go through Purung Kuda. Just after this town there is a signed right turn to the Park. Follow the signs until reaching the village of Cipenteng and stop for permits at the National Park HQ. Continue on along the rough dirt track that leads to Cikaniki and Citralahab. Expensive accommodation is available at the Research Station at Cikaniki (bring your own food) or you can stay in homestays and losmen in nearby Citralahab. Cikaniki is best for birding as two trails lead from the back of the hostel and there is a canopy walkway nearby. We birded the loop trail to Citralahab and the Gunung Kentang trail (the latter being the best for birds). It is possible to get to this site by public transport but probably cheaper and more convenient to hire a vehicle to get you to the site from Bogor - getting out is always easier!


23/7 - 26/7  Gunung Gede (Java)
I was again dogged by ill health here, this time in the form of a massive nasal abscess! Painful and yet more antibiotics. So yet again did not bird to our full potential and missed time in the field. Did see some great birds and managed to climb to the summit and back in a day. Whole area hooching with Indonesian students which must have impacted on the quality of the birding. We failed to find the partridge, serin and the cochoa so plenty of reasons to go back but did see most of the other specialities including Javan hawk eagle, yellow-throated hanging-parrot and Javan tesia. Enjoyed staying with Freddy even if he did call me Pinnochio for most of the week.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took one of the many minibuses waiting along the main drag in Bogor that go up to Cianjur. From the junction to Cibodas there are many minibuses that can take you the short distance (3 km)to Freddy's Homestay. On the right as you approach the mountain about 1 km before Park HQ. Technically you need a permit here but they wanted things like photocopies of passport and stuff so we said we would go back later... Birding here is mainly along the main path to the summit and this can be very crowded and noisy if it is the holidays. We were unlucky. Later the park was closed for cleaning (!) but serious birders were allowed in and the birding was apparently very good.


1/8 - 3/8  Bali Barat (Bali)
Took an overnight train across Java with the Hayman's to get to Bali. Arrived at our hotel in the evening and within ten minutes a guide had arrived asking if we wanted to see the Bali starling. Took a boat out to the site the next day, stopping off for some snorkelling at Pulau Manjangan where we had beach thick-knee, white-shouldered triller and lemon-bellied white-eye. Then we went on to the area of the release pen where after a short walk we were soon looking at a pair of Bali starlings. Superb but sobering. The next day we went in search of black-winged starling and had good views of a single bird as well as some nice yellow-throated hanging-parrots. All feeding in flowering flame trees. Charlotte and I also managed our first banded pitta of the trip here too. Hunted fruitlessly for Java sparrow for the remainder of the stay.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
There are apparently only 6 Bali starlings remaining in the wild in the Park. These are fairly easily but rather expensively available to all. We were approached by guides within minutes of checking into our hotel in Gilimanuk. We arranged permits and boats through our guide at the National Park HQ the next day. The boat hire to the best area (near the release cages) costs Rupiah 150,000-200,000 for the first four hours and then Rupiah 20,000 per hour thereafter. The park also insists on a 'donation' of Rupiah 200,000 (currently USD25) per person. I was happy to pay this as they insist it goes towards conservation of the bird but an official receipt was not possible apparently. I hope everything is all above board.

We saw three Bali starlings relatively easily and also recorded beach thick-knee and great-billed heron. Black-winged starlings were hard to find and look set to become the next Bali starling along with Java sparrow (which we could not find at all). We eventually found black-winged starling by staking out some flowering trees that our guide knew about.


4/8 - 6/8  Pulau Bunaken (Sulawesi)
We flew ahead of Pete Hayman who was to accompany us for the Sulawesi leg of our trip and spent a couple of enjoyable days at Pulau Bunaken. Snorkelling and taking it easy. Probably the best snorkelling I have ever done - a fantastic inshore reef system. Typically though there were no big fish.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
If you fancy this wonderful break from birding then logistical details are in the Lonely Planet guide. You will not be able to get out of the airport without being approached by touts wanting to get you out to the island.


6/8 - 9/8  Tangkoko (Sulawesi)
Picked up Pete from the airport and whisked him straight off to Tangkoko. Stopped en route and picked up six new birds just like that. These included our only views of Sulawesi crested myna. This site was a fantastic introduction to the birds of Sulawesi and was very exciting. Used the spotlight I bought in Singapore for the first time and saw green-backed wood kingfisher and Sulawesi Scops-owl on the first day with it! Great birding. Very commercial here though and the rangers spent most of their time trying to get us to part with our money. Highlights included; red-knobbed hornbill (common), silver-tipped imperial pigeon, two hanging-parrots, lilac kingfisher, isabelline waterhen, mynas and cuckoo-shrikes.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Logistics covered well in Jepson book. We stayed at the Ranger Homestay. We found that free access was barred without a guide but eventually we were allowed in along the beach but not inland. We regularly cut inland before the ranger station to circumvent this hindrance. The rates for guiding were very steep by Indonesian standards and we just did not have the budget to do it every day. In fact many of the endemics we saw were in open areas to the right of the main track in before you get to the ranger post. You do have to go in for some of the birds though. Combine a guided trip with a hunt for spectral tarsier at dusk for value for money.


11/8 - 18/8     Dumoga-Bone National Park (Sulawesi)
Arrived here to find the site was being selectively logged and was a right mess. Loads of trees across the nature trail, lots of gaps in the canopy and the bridge had fallen down. Made birding the site rather difficult and not much fun. Also Charlotte and I both hit by a mystery virus and laid low for a couple of days. All this combined to make this site my least favourite in Sulawesi. Despite all this we did see some excellent birds including Sulawesi hornbill, Sulawesi dwarf kingfisher, great-billed kingfisher, Sulawesi masked owl and maroon-chinned fruit-dove.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Again well covered in Jepson. We stayed at Toraut - take your own food if you are on a budget. No good guides were available when we were here - we would have done better if there had been. Not getting lost occupied our time. Wade the river and bird the trails in the forest on the other side. We also saw birded along the road to the dam, crossed it, doubled back  and went up the small sidestream, accessing the forest by crossing a dodgy bridge after 2 km.


21/8 - 26/8     Gunung Ambang (Sulawesi)
Having been warned away from Lore Lindu by local birders due to unrest amongst the squatter there we elected to bird Gunung Ambang instead. This proved to be a great idea as we clawed back a lot of the endemics we missed by not going to Lore Lindu and saw a few species that are rarely observed. We teamed up with Bob Roberts here (last seen on Doi Intanon). Star bird was the cinnabar hawk owl that we located on a spotlighting session that yielded four species of owl (Bob was impressed and I do not think I have ever done better, sadly Pete elected to have an early night!). Other highlights here were Sulawesi hawk-eagle, red-eared fruit-dove, white-bellied imperial pigeon, purple-bearded bee-eater, red-backed thrush, Matinan flycatcher and lesser Sulawesi honeyeater. Great birding at a little visited site.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
It is necessary to get a permit to visit this reserve beforehand. Go to the National Park Office in Kotamobagu, which is in on Jalan AKD in suburb of Mongkonai. We were accompanied by a ranger from Kotamobagu to the house of the on-site ranger (Julius) in nearby Singsingon. We took plenty of food for breakfast and lunch and ate at Julius' house every night. We stayed in the abandoned ranger station (basic but OK, room for four to six people). Julius can show you the trail on your first day and is good at spotting birds but speaks no English. Bird this trail and try and get as high as you can, there was a lot of logging going on when we were here but it was still very good birding.


28/8 - 31/8 Gunung Sahengbalira (Sanghie)
Really off-piste now. Took an overnight ferry from Manado and arrived in Tahuna, hooked straight up with the local conservation NGO and they took us straight to the losmen that was to be our base for the next few days. We elected not to waste time and after a short climb were camped at 600 meters. The next day we went straight to the stake-out for the Caerulean paradise flycatcher and after a five hour wait we were rewarded with good but distant views. Also had no problem picking up the endemic elegant sunbird. On day two we climbed high onto the ridge top to look for the shrike-thrush but only got very bad views but did see the endemic hanging-parrot. After this we elected to try another ridge top the next day and so dropped back down to the losmen for a night in a real bed. Climbed slowly up the ridge at dawn and I quickly connected with a family party of shrike-thrushes. Pete had gone on ahead but eventually after about an hour he scored too. We ended the day looking at a superb golden bulbul that our guide had picked up on call. Really special forest on these ridgetops with an 'other-world' type feel to them. Before we left the island we attempted to see Sanghie Scops-owl at Mahena neat Tahuna but failed, the dip was brightened up considerably though by our first and only spectral tarsier.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Sanghie is accessible from Manado by regular overnight ferries (Monday, Wednesday and Friday @ 1800 hrs), a faster day ferry (weekday mornings but broken when we were here) and a weekly (Monday) Merpati flight. On arrival in Tahuna (or before) contact Fahrul at Yayasan Sampiri (Tel: 0432 21767 - a local conservation NGO) - they will be able to help you get to some of the sites. We elected to bird Gunung Sahengbalira and were quickly transported by minibus to the Rainbow Losmen run by Phrets Pangimangan in Lilipan B just past Tamako. A journey of just over two hours. Phrets has a brother called Wesley who will guide you up into the good forest high on the ridges and gullies of the mountain. Take a tent if you have one, otherwise you can stay in rudimentary shelters (max 4 people). We spent two days birding here and had another day on Gunung Batu Katirang - which is located up the track that passes the Rainbow Losmen.

We spent just three days birding here and managed to see the following endemics; Sanghie shrike-thrush (5), Caerulean paradise-flycatcher (1), elegant sunbird (common) and Sanghie hanging-parrot (15+). We also saw the stunning local race of golden bulbul - which is, like the shrike-thrush, best located along the Gunung Batu Katirang ridge. The forest on top of the ridges here is very different from any other we visited in Indonesia and well worth seeing (you have to tell yourself that after climbing up to the ridgetops from sea level though). We failed to see the white-eye (very rare) and for some reason the scops-owl was silent. We tried again for the latter at the village of Mahena near Tahuna in plantation/forest edge habitat where the bird has been seen in the past but again no birds were calling. Note that red-and-blue lory no longer occurs on Sanghie and is now restricted to Talaud.


3/9, 7/9  Beo (Talaud)
We flew from Sanghie to Talaud and travelled up the bumpy road to Beo which was to be our base here. We birded south along the road on a number of days seeing some good birds in fairly disturbed and open habitat.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We flew from Sanghie (Naha) to Talaud (Melonguane on the southern tip of Karakelang Island) with Merpati (GBP8). Whilst the infrastructure of Sanghie is comparable with Northern Sulawesi the same cannot be said of Talaud. The main island of Karakelang has the worst roads we saw in five months in Indonesia and there are few buses or other forms of transport. Added to this the islands are predominantly Christian and totally shut-down on Sundays. This combines to make Talaud slightly more problematical to get around. The upside is that there is still plenty of habitat and lots of birds.

From Melonguane airstrip we walked into town to the beachside bus stop and took a bus to Beo, where we stayed in the losmen opposite the Church. We also birded the road south of Beo and also had the lory here. There is a small wetland just outside town on this road which probably holds Talaud rail but we failed to score.


4/9 - 6/9  Lobo (Talaud)
Our main attempt at seeing some of the endemics hinged on a trip to the plentiful forest of the island near the village of Lobo. We hooked up with a local girl who acted on our behalf and headed up the road, meeting the kepala desa of Lobo en route - he was getting drunk at a roadside café. He agreed to take us into the forest for a couple of nights - a prospect we were not exactly looking forward too but he proved (when sober) to be a congenial host and his wife looked after us well. We camped in the forest and tramped around. Could not find a sign of the bush-hen but did see the Talaud kingfisher and had heart-stopping views of the lory. Also here great-billed parrot, yellow-eyed imperial pigeon, island monarch and an interesting race of red-bellied pitta.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus to Lobo from Beo, meeting the kepala desa (village headman) en route who offered to guide us into the forest near the village (Lobo). Next day we walked for about two hours into good habitat where we camped and enjoyed reasonable birding for two days. Rain was a problem (September).

Talaud being further from Northern Sulawesi appears to have had little attention from visiting birders as yet. Frank Lambert recently added two new endemic rails to the avifauna and an undescribed Ninox owl lurks in the woods. We saw none of these species in the time we had available. But did connect with Talaud kingfisher (common), red-and-blue lory (regular) and two nice supertramp species (island monarch and blue-tailed imperial pigeon).

Talaud is currently logistically more difficult than Sanghie but, with increasing numbers of birders thinking of heading in that direction, hopefully things will get easier and stakeouts for the harder species will be found.


8/9 - 9/9  Melonguane (Talaud)
Chilled out here for a couple of days whilst waiting for the plane. Plenty of terns offshore and a solitary red-necked phalarope.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We flew back to Manado from Melonguane, having booked the ticket before we realised how difficult it was to travel the 60 km from Beo to Melonguane in order to connect with the flight. We would have been better taking one of the night ferries out of Beo direct to Manado.


12/9  Karaenta Forest Reserve (Sulawesi) and Ujung Pandang fishponds
Decided to spend 24 hours here and try and cosh off the white-eye that is endemic to this arm of Sulawesi. On arrival at the airport we hooked up with Hendrik who had guided birders before and we put everything in his hands. The next day we were picked up and driven to Karaenta Forest. Good birding here and we eventually saw about four black-ringed white-eyes which proved to be surprisingly good birds. Hendrik also knew some good fishponds for waders so we were soon in amongst lots of migrating waterbirds which was a pleasant thing to do before taking our onward flight to Jakarta for another visa run to Singapore.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We used a guide called Henrik (tel: 0411 553628) who arranged the car and has worked with numerous birders. He knows the way to Karaenta which is about 60 km from the city airport at Maros and also knows the best fishponds (which are excellent during migration periods). If you cannot find Henrik, charter a vehicle to take you towards Bantimurung (see Lonely Planet guide) but keep on the main road at the rather grotesque ape archway and continue for a few more kilometres.

Signs tell you when you have reached the forest reserve and there are marked trails off the road on the right. We saw about 4 white-eyes (listen for their pleasant short warbled song), mostly whilst walking along the road. They seemed to favour more open forest. Note that these birds do show lemon yellow vents (contra Coates and Bishop).

Henrik also know the way to Lompobatang flycatcher so I hope to meet him again soon!


18/9 - 19/9, 23/9 and 25/9 Waingapu mudflats (Sumba)
Flew to here from Bali, flying over the dry landscape of Sumba, dry plateaux with only patches of forest remaining. Over the next 2 weeks we spent a few enjoyable days thrashing the mudflats at Waingapu and turned up some good birds; Asian dowitcher (first for Sumba but no surprise), red knot (ditto) and also far eastern curlew (a personal favourite).

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Accessed easily from the town. Details in Jepson's book.


19/9  Yumbu (Sumba)
Searched here one morning for Sumba buttonquail, could not get good views on the deck but flushed several buttonquail, probably of two species (anyone out there know how to distinguish Sumba from red-backed buttonquail in flight?). Disappointing but we were rewarded for the hard work with two Oriental plovers.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We took a bus out to the site and jumped out at the bridge.


20/9  Luku Melolo (Sumba)
Stopped here briefly en route to Gunung Wangameti and we were not disappointed. We quickly added a number of island and regional endemics to our lists, including the incredible red-naped fruit-dove. We also taped out chestnut-backed thrush and heard our first elegant pitta.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We hired a car in Wangameti to drop us at Loraija (Gunung Wangameti) going via Luku Melolo.


20/9 - 22/9     Gunung Wangameti  (Sumba)
We were dropped off here for a couple of days. Stayed in the village in the headman's house and wished yet again that we spoke better Indonesian and knew how to be more polite in village society. This site is excellent and we did well here despite only having a short time. Highlights included; elegant pitta (at last pitta number 20, I have managed to dip four on this trip though!!), cinnamon-banded kingfisher (superb), Sumba boobook, the three flycatchers, and Sumba hornbill. The big surprise was a female superb fruit-dove, a sighting that may indicate that an unknown population/subspecies of this species exists on Sumba!!

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We birded along the tracks into the forest that start after crossing the stream. You can hear cinnamon-banded kingfisher and elegant pitta from your bed in the village - both can be found around the stream crossing and this area is good for owls at night too.


24/9 - 25/9     Lewa (Sumba)
As we were missing two endemics (the green pigeon and the myzomela) we decided to make a short trip to Lewa. Camped in the forest and as darkness fell we heard the call of the Sumba 'scopsowl' a species discovered by birders about ten years ago and yet to be described. We eventually taped a pair in and decided that they were boobooks not Otus owls! Only time and a shotgun will tell what genus these owls should truly be assigned to. Failed to find the pigeon and the myzomela, so will have to go back to Sumba one day.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Classic location - access details in Jepson's book. We birded forest edge and a few trails going into the forest.


27/9  Ferry to Flores
Finally some seabird action. Woke before dawn and joined the crew up by the bridge whilst Charlotte slept. Enjoyed a few excellent birds on the deepwater shelf off the south coast of Flores before we docked at Ende. Highlights included Wilson's storm petrel, streaked shearwater and large flocks of red-necked phalarope.


27/9 - 28/9     Keli Mutu (Flores)
Visited this tourist venue to see the volcanic lakes but it produced a surprising number of good birds as well. We arrived at the top at dawn and slowly walked the 12 km back from the top. Very little good habitat but the birds kept coming through the day. Managed to see ten new birds which included all three regionally endemic darkeyes.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Well covered in Jepson and the Lonely Planet guide. We took a lorry to the top and birded all the way back to Moni - very disturbed but plenty of birds.


30/9 - 1/10     Kisol area (Flores)
Stayed at the Catholic seminary in the village and birded the nearby mountain (Gunung Ndeki) and coastal areas (Nangarawe). Good but rather slow birding here. Highlights included Flores crow, white-rumped kingfisher and black-backed fruit-dove. Failed to find Flores green pigeon.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We stayed at the seminary (details in Jepson). If you are female watch the seminary boys - they can get a little too curious when you take a shower. We used a seminary vehicle to get to and from Nanagarawe. Negotiate prices here beforehand it was too expensive really.


3/10 - 4/10  Ruteng  (Flores)
More montane birding around this mountain town. Managed to catch up with five-coloured munia, Flores jungle flycatcher and little minivet here. Now we were just chasing the three remaining Flores endemics, all of which we managed to miss at Puarldo (see Jepson) and sites around Labuanbajo. Will have to get back to Flores with some better gen sometime and try again. Interesting birding though.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Plenty of accommodation and food in town. We birded Danau Rana Mese, Golo Lusang and Gunung Ranaka - all detailed in Jepson.


6/10 - 7/10     Labuanbajo area (Flores)
Birded the Potawangka road (no joy finding any forest, but some birds) and the Puarldo Telkom station (very little).

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We birded these sites from our hotel in Labuanbajo. All details in Jepson.


8/10 - 11/10   Komodo
Chartered a fishing boat to take us to Komodo through the incredible channel between Rinca and Komodo, all whirlpools and rip currents - amazing. Really enjoyed this spot. Stayed here for a couple of nights and kicked back and relaxed. Apart from the dragons and the yellow-crested cockatoos (only seen at this site and now drastically reduced or extinct elsewhere) there is not much going on here. Did manage a few interesting seabirds though including sooty tern and brown booby. Having been abandoned by the ferry on Komodo we hired a small fishing boat to take us back to Flores. On the way managed our first Bulwer's petrel. In Labuanbajo we had a chance to catch up on world news and discovered that Afghanistan was being bombed! Great timing as we were about to head through Sumbawa and Lombok both staunchly muslim islands. Decided to shoot through as fast as possible.

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Arrange transport to Komodo in Labuan bajo. It is possible to get there by ferry too but we waited in vain to get off the island and eventually chartered a boat. Good accommodation and food on island. Birding limited as you are not allowed in without a guide. Most birds can be seen on the guided dragon walks and from the beach.


12/10     Lebuk Taliwang (Sumbawa)
The two days getting through Sumbawa and Lombok were not very pleasant, the usual greeting of "Hello mister" had been abandoned in favour of "Are you American?". We sat up front with the bus driver and listened quietly to the rantings of the passengers behind us. Broke the journey by stopping at Lebuk Taliwang where we had some nice wetland birds including comb-crested jacana and glossy ibis (3 - possibly the first for the island).

Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Take a bus from Labuahan Poto (where ferry from Lombok docks) to Taliwang (1 hour). There are losmen here. Take a bus back up the road a few kilometres to view the roadside lake.


13/10     Ferries to Bali
Excellent birding off all the ferries during this time!! More Bulwer's petrels, brown boobies and one streaked shearwater. Reached the haven of Bali safely, to hear that some tourists had been beaten up in Lombok that day. This was in fact the last day of our year long trip as faced with all the possibilities (post 9/11) we decided to call it a day and miss out on the Indian leg of the trip. We were very tired!

Birds recorded in Indonesia between 4th June and 13th October 2001

Sites visited: Sumatra; Gunung Kerinci (GK) 8/6 - 19/6, Mauro Sako (MS) 20/6 - 22/6, Way Kambas (WK) 5/7 - 9/7. Java; Carita (C) 9/7 - 12/7, Maura Angke (MA) 14/7, Pulau Rambut (PR) 14/7, Bogor (B) 16/7, Megah Indah (MI) 17/7, Gunung Halimun (GH) 17/7 - 20/7, Gunung Gede (GG) 23/7 - 26/7. Bali; Bali Barat (BB) 1/8 - 3/8. Sulawesi; Pulau Bunaken (PB) 4/8 - 6/8, Tangkoko (T) 6/8 - 9/8, Dumoga-Bone NP (DB) 11/8 - 18/8, Gunung Ambang (GA) 21/8 - 26/8. Sanghie; Gunung Sahengbalira (GS) 28/8 - 31/8. Talaud; Beo (BT) 3/9 and 7/9, Lobo (LT) 4/9 - 6/9, Melonguane (MT) 8/9 - 9/9. Sulawesi; Karaenta Forest (KF) 12/9, Ujung Pandang fish ponds (UP) 12/9. Sumba; Waingapu (W) 18/9 - 19/9, 23/9 and 25/9, Yumbu (Y) 19/9, Luku Melolo (LM) 20/9, Gunung Wangameti (GW) 20/9 - 22/9, Lewa (L) 24/9 - 25/9, Gallery forest near Melolo (FM) 26/9. Flores; Keli Mutu (KM) 27/9 - 28/9, Gunung Ndeke (GN) 30/9, Nangarawe (N) 1/10, Golo Lusang (GL) 3/10, Gunung Ranaka (RK) 4/10, Danau Rana Mese (RM) 4/10, Potawangka (P) 6/10, Labuan bajo (LB) 6/10 and 7/10, Puarldo Telekom (PT) 7/10. Komodo (K) 8/10 - 11/10. Sumbawa; Lebok Taliwang (TL) 12/10. Birds in square brackets were heard only.

Bulwer's petrel  Bulweri bulweri  ferries in the Lesser Sundas, Two between Komodo and Labuanbajo (Flores) on 9/10, five between Labuanbajo and Sumbawa on 11/10, three between Sumbawa and Lombok on 13/10 and one between Lombok and Bali on the same day.
Streaked shearwater  Calonectris leucomelas  ferries in the Lesser Sundas, 20+ off Flores on 9/10 and 1 flying south from the Lombok to Bali ferry on 13/10.
Wilson's storm petrel  Oceanitus oceanicus     ferry to Ende. At least two birds just off the south coast of Flores on 27/9.
Red-throated little grebe  Tachybaptus ruficollis      RM
Great frigatebird  Fregata minor  T
Lesser frigatebird  Fregata ariel   BB, T, LB, K
Christmas frigatebird  Fregata andrewsi     PR
Little black cormorant  Phalacrocorax sulcirostris    PR
Little pied cormorant  Phalacrocorax melanoleucos   LB, LT
Little cormorant  Phalacrocorax niger     MA
Oriental darter  Anhinga melanogaster  MA
Brown booby  Sula leucogaster K, ferries
Single in the bay at Komodo one morning, two birds between Sumbawa and Lombok and at least ten birds between Lombok and Bali.
Grey heron  Ardea cinerea   MA
Great-billed heron  Ardea sumatrana     K
Purple heron  Ardea purpurea  MA, Denpasar, DB, UP, LB, TL
Great egret  Casmerodius albus  LT
Intermediate egret  Egretta intermedia  PR, TL
White-faced heron  Egretta novahollandae GW
Little egret  Egretta garzetta     
Pacific reef egret  Egretta sacra  T, W, K
Cattle egret  Bubulcus ibis    DB, GA, LB
Javan pond heron  Ardeola speciosus     MA, Denpasar, UP, W, TL
Striated heron  Butorides striatus BB, UP
Black-crowned night heron  Nycticorax nyticorax  MA, B
Cinnamon bittern  Ixobrychus cinnamomeus   DB, TL
Black bittern  Ixobrychus flavicollis  BT
Milky stork  Mycteria cinerea    PR
Storm´s stork  Ciconia stormi    WK
Lesser adjutant  Leptoptilos javanicus    WK, Gilimanuk, BB
Glossy ibis  Plegadis falcinellus    PR, TL, Three birds at Lebuk Taliwang on 12/10 may be the first record for Sumbawa.
Black-headed ibis  Threskiornis melanocephalus PR
Osprey  Pandion haliaetus   WK
Jerdon's baza  Aviceda jerdoni   DB
Black-winged kite  Elanus caeruleus      GK, N, LB
Brahminy kite  Haliastur indus    T, DB, GA, BT, W, GW, N, LB, K
White-bellied fish-eagle  Haliaeetus leucogaster C, PR, BB, T, GA, N, LB, K
Lesser fish eagle  Ichthyophaga humilis      DB
Grey-headed fish eagle  Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus  WK
Short-toed eagle  Circaetus gallicus  P, PT
Crested serpent eagle  Spilornis cheela MS, C, [GH], [GG]
Sulawesi serpent eagle  Spilornis rufipectus  GA, KF
Spotted harrier  Circus assimilis   T
Crested goshawk  Accipiter trivirgatus      WK
Sulawesi goshawk  Accipiter griseiceps     T, GA
Japanese sparrowhawk  Accipiter gularis L, FM, N
Spot-tailed goshawk  Accipiter trinotatus   DB, GA
Brown goshawk  Accipiter fasciatus LM, L, FM, LB
Variable goshawk  Accipiter hiogaster  K
Besra  Accipiter virgatus GG
Vinous-breasted sparrowhawk  Accipiter rhodogaster    GA
Black eagle  Ictinaetus malayensis      GK, GG, DB, GA
Rufous-bellied eagle  Hieraaetus kieneri     MS
Changeable hawk eagle  Spizaetus cirrhatus C, GH, BB, KM
Javan hawk eagle  Spizaetus bartelsi           GG
Sulawesi hawk eagle  Spizaetus lanceolatus   GA
Blyth's hawk eagle  Spizaetus alboniger     GK, MS
Black-thighed falconet  Microhierax fringillarius    WK, GH
Spotted kestrel  Falco moluccensis      GG, BB, DB, Y, GW, N, GL
Oriental hobby  Falco severus  DB
Peregrine falcon  Falco peregrinus    N, Single bird of migrant northern race calidus on 1/10. No previous record of this migrant race on Flores.
Wandering whistling duck  Dendrocygna arcuata   DB, TL
Lesser whistling duck  Dendrocygna javanica    RM, TL
White-winged duck  Cairina scutulata  WK
Sunda teal  Anas gibberifrons   MA, DB, W, TL
Pacific black duck  Anas superciliosa     RM, TL
Tabon scrubfowl  Megapodius cummingi  LT
Orange-footed scrubfowl  Megapodius reinwardt    K
Brown quail  Coturnix australis roadsides on Sumba
Blue-breasted quail  Coturnix chinensis    DB
[Chestnut-bellied partridge]  Arborophila javanica [GH], [GG]
Red-billed partridge  Arborophila rubrirostris     GK
Salvadori's pheasant  Lophura inornata     GK
Crested fireback  Lophura ignita WK
[Red junglefowl]  Gallus gallus [WK], [KF]
Green junglefowl  Gallus varius BB, LM, GW, [L], FM, [N], [GL], [RM], [P], [LB], K, TL
[Bronze-tailed peacock pheasant]  Polyplectron chalcurum [GK]
[Great argus]  Argusianus argus  [MS], [WK]
Barred buttonquail  Turnix suscitator   GK, DB
Buff-banded rail  Gallirallus philippensis  T, DB, GA, GW, KM, LB
Barred rail  Gallirallus torquatus   T, DB, GA
White-browed crake  Poliolimnas cinerea   UP, TL
Isabelline bush-hen  Amaurornis isabellina    T, DB, [GA]
White-breasted waterhen  Amaurornis phoenicurus BB, DB, [KM], [P]
Common moorhen  Gallinula chloropus          TL
Purple swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio    MA
Comb-crested jacana   Irediparra gallinacea   TL
Greater painted snipe  Rostratula benghalensis  DB, Between 6 and 9 birds together on a small wetland on the boundary of the National Park on 15/08 - amazingly this constitutes only the second record for Sulawesi!
Grey plover  Pluvialis squatarola  W,K
Asian golden plover  Pluvialis fulva     MT, W, N, LB
Little ringed plover  Charadrius dubius UP
Javan plover  Charadrius javanicus   MA
Malaysian plover  Charadrius peronii   BB, W, N, K
Lesser sand plover  Charadrius mongolus  W, N
Greater sand plover  Charadrius leschenaultii     UP, W, K
Oriental plover  Charadrius veredus Y
Whimbrel  Numenius phaeopus  Batam, BT, W, K
Far eastern curlew  Numenius madagascariensis W
Bar-tailed godwit  Limosa lapponica W
Common redshank  Tringa totanus W
Marsh sandpiper  Tringa stagnatilis      UP
Common greenshank  Tringa nebularia    UP, W
Wood sandpiper  Tringa glareola      UP, W, LB, TL
Terek sandpiper  Xenus cinerea  UP, W
Common sandpiper  Actitis hypoleucos     BB, T, LT, UP, W, N, LB, K
Grey-tailed tattler  Heteroscelus brevipes     LT, W
Ruddy turnstone  Arenaria interpres      UP, W
Asian dowitcher  Limnodromus semipalmatus     W Single bird on 18-19/09 was the first record for Sumba.
Horsfield's woodcock  Scolopax saturata   GK
Great knot  Calidris tenuirostris    UP, W
Red knot  Calidris canutus   UP, W A single bird on 23/09 and 25/09 at Waingapu was the first record for Sumba.
Sanderling  Calidris alba     UP, W
Rufous-necked stint  Calidris ruficollis     UP, W, LB
Long-toed stint  Calidris subminuta  UP
Curlew sandpiper  Calidris ferruginea  UP, W
White-headed stilt  Himantopus leucocephalus    UP
Red-necked phalarope  Phalaropus lobatus    PB, MT, off Flores, N, K, ferries. A small flock of 6 birds off PB on 6/08 was an early record.
Beach thick-knee  Esacus magnirostris  BB, N, K
Australian pratincole  Stiltia isabella     Denpasar airport
Pomarine skua  Stercorarius pomarinus ferries. Two en route to Komodo on 8/10 and at least 25 between Labuanbajo and Sumbawa on 11/10.
Whiskered tern  Chlidonias hybridus    UP, K
White-winged tern  Chlidonias leucopterus     PR, UP
Gull-billed tern  Gelochelidon nilotica    PB, UP
Common tern  Sterna hirundo  MT, W
Black-naped tern  Sterna sumatrana Batam, ferries, BB, K
Bridled tern  Sterna anaethetus ferries
Sooty tern  Sterna fuscata     K
Little tern  Sterna albifrons   MT, UP, W
Great crested tern  Sterna bergii  ferries, W, K
Sunda pin-tailed pigeon  Treron oxyura   GK, [GH]
[Wedge-tailed green pigeon]  Treron sphenura  [GK]
Thick-billed green pigeon  Treron curvirostra    [WK], C
Grey-cheeked green pigeon  Treron griseicauda     T
Cinnamon-headed green pigeon  Treron fulvicollis WK
Little green pigeon  Treron olax  WK
Pink-necked green pigeon  Treron vernans    BB, T
Black-backed fruit-dove  Ptilinopus cinctus   GN
Red-naped fruit-dove  Ptilinopus dohertyi LM, GW, L
Pink-headed fruit-dove  Ptilinopus porphyreus  GK, GG
Red-eared fruit-dove  Ptilinopus fischeri    GA
Maroon-chinned fruit-dove  Ptilinopus subgularis  DB
Superb fruit-dove  Ptilinopus superbus T, GA, GW No previous records for Sumba so our record of an adult female could indicate the presence of a hitherto undiscovered sub-species.
Black-naped fruit-dove  Ptilinopus melanospila B, T, DB, GS, LT, BT, LM, L, FM, GN, N, P
White-bellied imperial pigeon  Ducula forsteni GA
[Grey-headed imperial pigeon]  Ducula radiata      [GA]
Green imperial pigeon  Ducula aenea   WK, T, DB, KF, LM, GW, L, N, P, LB, K
Blue-tailed imperial pigeon  Ducula concinna    [GS], LT
Dark-backed imperial pigeon  Ducula lacernulata GH
Pied imperial pigeon  Ducula bicolor    PR, PB
White imperial pigeon  Ducula luctuosa     T, DB
Rock pigeon  Columba livia     
Sulawesi black pigeon  Turacoena manadensis   T, DB
Barred cuckoo-dove  Macropygia unchall  KK
Slender-billed cuckoo-dove  Macropygia amboinensis     T, DB, GA, GS
Little cuckoo-dove  Macropygia ruficeps     [GK], [MS], [GH], [GW]
Island collared dove  Streptopelia bitorquata  BB
Spotted dove  Streptopelia chinensis B, BB, T, GA, BT, Y, LM, KM, P, K
Zebra dove  Geopelia striata      BB
Barred dove  Geopelia maugei  Y, LM, FM, N, [P], LB, K
Emerald dove  Chalcophaps indica   MS, T, DB, GS, LT, LM, GW, L, FM, GN, P
Stephan's dove  Chalcophaps stephani  T
Red-and-blue lory  Eos histrio LT, BT
Ornate lorikeet  Trichoglossus ornatus   T, DB, [KF]
Rainbow lorikeet  Trichoglossus haematodus  GW, L, KM, GN
Yellow-and-green lorikeet  Trichoglossus flavoviridis     GA
Yellow-crested cockatoo  Cacatua sulphurea  K
Red-cheeked parrot  Geoffroyus geoffroyi  GW, L, FM, P
Yellow-breasted racquet-tail  Prioniturus flavicans  DB
Golden-mantled racquet-tail  Prioniturus platurus [T], [DB], [GA], LT
Blue-naped parrot  Tanygnathus lucionensis  LT
Blue-backed parrot  Tanygnathus sumatranus    T, DB, LT
Great-billed parrot  Tanygnathus megalorhynchos   LT, P
Red-breasted parakeet  Psittacula alexandri  MA, BB
Blue-rumped parrot  Psittinus cyanurus    WK
Blue-throated hanging-parrot  Loriculus galgulus   WK
Sulawesi hanging-parrot  Loriculus stigmatus    T, DB, GA
Sangihe hanging-parrot  Loriculus catamene  GS
Red-billed hanging-parrot  Loriculus exilis    T
Yellow-throated hanging-parrot  Loriculus pusillus GG, BB
[Large hawk cuckoo]  Cuculus sparveroides    [GH]
Oriental cuckoo  Cuculus saturatus  GK, [GH], [GG], GW, GN, [RK], LB
Banded bay cuckoo  Cacomantis sonneratii     C
Plaintive cuckoo  Cacomantis merulinus     [GK], [WK], MA, B
Rusty-breasted cuckoo  Cacomantis sepulcralis  [GK], [C], [GG], GA, LM, [L], [FM], [RK], [P], [PT]
Horsfield's bronze cuckoo  Chrysococcyx basalis    MA
Drongo cuckoo  Surniculus lugubris [MS], [WK]
Asian koel  Eudynamys scolopacea    PR, GS, [LT], [L], [K]
Black-billed koel  Eudynamys melanorhyncha    T, [DB], [GA]
Black-bellied malkoha  Rhopodytes diardi     WK

Green-billed malkoha  Rhopodytes tristis MS

Yellow-billed malkoha  Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus  T, DB, GA
Chestnut-breasted malkoha  Rhamphococcyx curvirostris    GH, GG, BB
Greater coucal  Centropus sinensis    MS, WK
Lesser coucal  Centropus bengalensis      GK, T, DB, GA, BT, GW, [N], P
Bay coucal  Centropus celebensis   DB, [GA]
Barn owl  Tyto alba    Sungei Penuh
Sulawesi owl  Tyto rosenbergii  DB, GA, Manado
Reddish scopsowl  Otus rufescens    WK
Sulawesi scopsowl  Otus manadensis    T, GA, [Manado]
[Rajah scopsowl]  Otus brookii  [GK]
[Collared scopsowl]  Otus bakkamoena  [WK], [GG]
[Barred eagle owl]  Bubo sumatranus     [GK]
Mystery Scops/boobook  sp  Otus/Ninox sp. [GW], L
Sumba boobook  Ninox rudolfi GW
Brown hawk owl  Ninox scutulata    [WK]
Ochre-bellied boobook  Ninox ochracea    [DB]
Cinnabar boobook  Ninox ios  GA
Speckled boobook  Ninox punctulata    GA
[Brown wood owl]  Strix leptogrammica    [WK]
Large frogmouth  Batrachostomus auritus   WK
Gould's frogmouth  Batrachostomus stellatus WK
Pale-headed frogmouth  Batrachostomus poliolophus GK
[Javan frogmouth]  Batrachostomus javensis    [C]
[Blyth's frogmouth]  Batrachostomus affinis    [WK]
[Sunda frogmouth]  Batrachostomus cornutus [WK]
Malaysian eared nightjar  Eurostopodus temminckii WK
Great eared nightjar  Eurostopodus macrotis  T, [DB], GA, [Manado]
[Large-tailed nightjar]  Caprimulgus macrurus   WK, [L]
[Sulawesi nightjar]  Caprimulgus celebensis    [T]
Savanna nightjar  Caprimulgus affinis  [Bandar Lampung], Denpasar, [N]
[Bonaparte's nightjar]  Caprimulgus concretus    [WK]
Waterfall swift  Hydrochous gigas    GK
Volcano swiftlet  Aerodramus vulcanorum  GG
Edible-nest swiftlet  Aerodramus fuciphagus  L, P, LB
Uniform swiftlet  Aerodramus vanikorensis     DB
Moluccan swiftlet  Aerodramus infuscatus  T, DB, GA, GS
Glossy swiftlet  Collocalia esculenta GK, MS, T, GA, GS, LM, GW, L, FM, KM, GL, P, PT
Cave swiftlet  Collocalia linchi C, B, GG
Brown-backed needletail  Hirundapus giganteus    BB
Purple needletail  Hirundapus celebensis    DB, GA
Silver-rumped swift  Rhaphidura leucopygialis  MS
Fork-tailed swift  Apus pacificus  L
Little swift  Apus affinis Ujung Pandang, KM
Asian palm-swift  Cypsiurus balasiensis     WK, BB, Ujung Pandang, DB The Dumoga-Bone  record (a single bird with swiftlet flock on 14/08) may be the first record for North Sulawesi.
Grey-rumped treeswift  Hemiprocne longipennis     WK, GH, BB, T, DB, GA
Whiskered treeswift  Hemiprocne comata   MS
Javan trogon  Harpactes reinwardtii  GH
Sumatran trogon  Harpactes mackloti     GK
Red-naped trogon  Harpactes kasumba  WK
Scarlet-rumped trogon  Harpactes duvaucellii     WK
Common kingfisher  Alcedo atthis   T, DB, LT, W
Blue-eared kingfisher  Alcedo meninting   WK
Small blue kingfisher  Alcedo coerulescens     MA, BB, TL
Sulawesi dwarf kingfisher  Ceyx fallax    DB
Stork-billed kingfisher  Pelargopsis capensis WK
Black-billed kingfisher  Pelargopsis melanorhyncha DB
[Banded kingfisher]  Lacedo pulchella   [WK], [C]
Lilac-cheeked kingfisher  Cittura cyanotis     T, DB, GS
White-throated kingfisher  Halcyon smyrnensis      [WK]
Javan kingfisher  Halcyon cyanoventris     MI, GG, Bali
Cinnamon-banded kingfisher  Halcyon australasia GW
Sacred kingfisher  Halcyon sancta    BB, BT, Y, N, K
Collared kingfisher  Halcyon chloris     B, GG, BB, T, DB, GA, [LT], BT, LM, GN, GL, RK
Talaud kingfisher  Halcyon enigma LT
White-rumped kingfisher  Caridonax fulgidus  GN
Green-backed kingfisher  Actenoides monachus      T, DB
[Scaly-breasted kingfisher]  Actenoides princeps     [GA]
Chestnut-headed bee-eater  Merops leschenaulti     BB
Blue-tailed bee-eater  Merops philippinus MA, W, LM, FM, KM, N, K Birds found nesting at Nangarawe, Flores.
Rainbow bee-eater  Merops ornatus T
Red-bearded bee-eater  Nyctiornis amictus    MS
Purple-bearded bee-eater  Meropogon forsteni  GA Nest found at GA.
Purple-winged roller  Coracias temminckii T
Dollarbird  Eurystomus orientalis P
Bushy-crested hornbill  Annorhinus galeritus     GK, [MS]
Tarictic hornbill  Penelopides exarhatus DB, KF
Red-knobbed hornbill  Rhyticeros cassidix    T, KF
Wreathed hornbill  Rhyticeros undulatus   GK, MS
Sumba hornbill  Rhyticeros everetti  GW
Asian black hornbill  Anthracoceros malayanus  WK
Rhinoceros hornbill  Buceros rhinoceros     MS
[Helmeted hornbill]  Rhinoplax vigil    [MS]
Fire-tufted barbet  Psilopogon pyrolophus  GK, [MS]
[Lineated barbet]  Megalaima lineata     [BB]
[Brown-throated barbet]  Megalaima corvina [GH], [GG]
[Gold-whiskered barbet]  Megalaima chrysopogon [MS]
Red-crowned barbet  Megalaima rafflesii   WK
[Black-banded barbet]  Megalaima javensis   [C]
[Black-browed barbet]  Megalaima oorti    [GK]
Orange-fronted barbet  Megalaima armillaris    GH, GG
Blue-eared barbet  Megalaima australis      [MS], [WK], C
Coppersmith barbet  Megalaima haemacephala  GK, [B]
Brown barbet  Calorhamphus fuliginosus   WK
Rufous piculet  Sasia abnormis  GH
Greater yellownape  Picus flavinucha   MS
Checker-throated woodpecker  Picus mentalis  GH, GG
Crimson-winged woodpecker  Picus puniceus   GH
Common goldenback  Dinopium javanense    WK, BB
Buff-rumped woodpecker  Meiglyptes tristis     WK
Ashy woodpecker  Mulleripicus fulvus T, DB, KF
White-bellied woodpecker  Dryocopus javensis      WK
Fulvous-breasted woodpecker  Dendrocopus macei  MA, BB
Brown-capped woodpecker  Dendrocopus moluccensis    WK, MA, BB, KM, GN, RK, RM, P
Sulawesi woodpecker  Dendrocopus temminckii        T, GA Tangkoko; pair feeding young at nest on 7/8.
Grey-and-buff woodpecker  Hemicircus concretus  C, GH
Maroon woodpecker  Blythipicus rubiginosus    [GK]
Orange-backed woodpecker  Reinwardtipicus validus    WK
Dusky broadbill  Corydon sumatranus  WK
Black-and-red broadbill  Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos      WK
Banded broadbill  Eurylaimus javanicus    GH, GG
Black-and-yellow broadbill  Eurylaimus ochromalus [MS], WK
[Schneider's pitta]  Pitta schneideri  [GK]
Banded pitta  Pitta guajana      [WK], [C], BB
Red-bellied pitta  Pitta erythrogaster     DB, LT, KF
Hooded pitta  Pitta sordida WK, [GS]
Elegant pitta  Pitta elegans  [LM], GW, [L], [FM], [GN], [TL]
Singing bush-lark  Mirafra javanica      Y, L, N, LB
Barn swallow  Hirundo rustica  T, LT, Sumba, N, P, LB, K, TL
Pacific swallow  Hirundo tahitica      MS, PB, T, DB, GA, GS, Y
Striated swallow  Hirundo striolata  GH, GG, Y
Yellow wagtail  Motacilla flava    MT
Grey wagtail  Motacilla cinerea     KM
Richard's pipit  Anthus novaeseelandiae      Denpasar, Sumba, N, LB, K
[Javan cuckooshrike]  Coracina javensis    [BB]
Wallacean cuckooshrike  Coracina personata     LM, L, N, P
Caerulean cuckooshrike  Coracina temminckii   GA
Sunda cuckooshrike  Coracina larvata  GK
Bar-bellied cuckooshrike  Coracina striata     WK
Pied cuckooshrike  Coracina bicolor      T, DB
White-rumped cuckooshrike  Coracina leucopygia T
Sumba cicadabird  Coracina dohertyi    LM, GW, L, RM, P
Sulawesi cicadabird  Coracina morio    T, DB, GA, LT
Lesser cuckooshrike  Coracina fimbriata    C
Pied triller  Lalage nigra MA
Sulawesi triller  Lalage leucopygialis     T, GA
White-shouldered triller Lalage sueurii     BB, UP, Y
Small minivet  Pericrocotus cinnamomeus   C, BB
Fiery minivet  Pericrocotus igneus      WK
Little minivet  Pericrocotus lansbergei     RK, P
Grey-chinned minivet  Pericrocotus solaris     GK
Sunda minivet  Pericrocotus miniatus    GK, GH, GG
Scarlet minivet  Pericrocotus flammeus  C
Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike  Hemipus picatus      GK
Black-winged flycatcher-shrike  Hemipus hirundinaceus     WK, C, GH, GG
Cream-striped bulbul  Pycnonotus leucogrammicus MS
Spot-necked bulbul  Pycnonotus tympanistrigus      MS
Black-headed bulbul  Pycnonotus atriceps MS, WK, C
Black-crested bulbul  Pycnonotus melanicterus   MS
Scaly-breasted bulbul  Pycnonotus squamatus    MS
Grey-bellied bulbul  Pycnonotus cyaniventris     MS
Sooty-headed bulbul  Pycnonotus aurigaster  GK, C, MA, B, BB, Ujung Pandang, T, KF
Orange-spotted bulbul  Pycnonotus bimaculatus      GK, MI
Yellow-vented bulbul  Pycnonotus goavier     GK, MA, BB
Olive-winged bulbul  Pycnonotus plumosus   WK
Cream-vented bulbul  Pycnonotus simplex     WK
Red-eyed bulbul  Pycnonotus brunneus MS, WK, C
Spectacled bulbul  Pycnonotus erythropthalmos MS
Ochraceous bulbul  Criniger ochraceos MS
Grey-cheeked bulbul  Criniger bres      MS, C, GG
Buff-vented bulbul  Hypsipetes charlottae  MS
Hairy-backed bulbul  Hypsipetes criniger  MS
Golden bulbul  Hypsipetes affinis      GS
Sunda streaked bulbul  Hypsipetes virescens MS, GH, GG
Ashy bulbul  Hypsipetes flavala   MS
Common iora  Aegithina tiphia     C, BB
Green iora  Aegithina viridissima WK
Blue-winged leafbird  Chloropsis cochinchinensis   MS, GH
Blue-masked leafbird  Chloropsis venusta     MS
Asian fairy bluebird  Irene puella      MS
Long-tailed shrike  Lanius schach      GK, MA, GH, BB
Lesser shortwing  Brachypteryx leucophyrys  GK, GH, GG
White-browed shortwing  Brachypteryx montana    GK, GL
Magpie robin  Copsychus saularis      MS, WK
White-rumped shama  Copsychus malabaricus   [WK]
Sunda blue robin  Cinclidium dianae    GK, GG
Lesser forktail  Enicrurus velatus GK, MS, GG
White-crowned forktail  Enicrurus leschenaulti  MI, GG
[Sumatran cochoa]  Cochoa beccarii  [GK]
Shiny whistling thrush  Myophonus melanurus    GK
Javan whistling thrush  Myophonus glaucinus   GH, GG
Sumatran whistling thrush  Myophonus castaneus  GK
Chestnut-backed thrush  Zoothera dohertyi   LM, GW
Red-backed thrush  Zoothera erythronota  GA
Island thrush  Turdus poliocephalus GG
Black-capped babbler  Pellorneum capistratum  C
Ferruginous babbler  Trichastoma bicolor  WK
Horsfield´s babbler  Trichastoma sepiarium   [GH], GG
Sulawesi babbler  Trichastoma celebense    T, DB, GA, KF
Sooty-capped babbler  Malacopteron affine    WK
Scaly-crowned babbler  Malacopteron cinereum C
Chestnut-backed scimitar-babbler  Pomatorhinus montanus GG
Long-billed wren-babbler  Rimator malacoptilus    GK
Rusty-breasted wren-babbler  Napothera rufipectus  GK
Eye-browed wren-babbler  Napothera epilepidota  GK, GH, GG
Pygmy wren-babbler  Pnoepyga pusilla    GK, GH, GG, [KM], [GL], [RK], [RM]
Golden babbler  Stachyris chrysaea GK
White-breasted babbler  Stachyris grammiceps    C, GH
Grey-throated babbler  Stachyris nigriceps    GK, MS
Grey-headed babbler  Stachyris poliocephala     MS
Spot-necked babbler   Stachyris striolata   GK
White-bibbed babbler  Stachyris thoracica     GH, GG
Chestnut-winged babbler  Stachyris erythroptera   WK
Crescent-chested babbler  Stachyris melanothorax GG
Grey-cheeked tit-babbler  Macronous flavicollis     C
Striped tit-babbler  Macronous gularis  MS, WK, C
Fluffy-backed tit-babbler  Macronous ptilinosus      WK
Rufous-fronted laughingthrush  Garrulax rufifrons GG
Black laughingthrush  Garrulax lugubris   MS
Chestnut-capped laughingthrush  Garrulax mitratus      MS
White-browed shrike-babbler  Pteruthius flaviscapis      GK, GH, GG
Chestnut-fronted shrike-babbler  Pteruthius aenobarbus      GH, GG
Brown fulvetta  Alcippe brunneicauda    MS
Javan fulvetta  Alcippe pyrrhoptera  GH, GG
Spotted crocias  Crocias albonotatus GH, GG
Long-tailed sibia  Heterophasia picaoides    MS
Malia  Malia grata GA
Javan tesia  Tesia superciliaris  GG
Russet-capped tesia  Tesia everetti   KM, [GL], [RK], RM, [PT]
Sunda bush warbler  Cettia vulcania    GK, [GG]
Chestnut-backed bush warbler  Bradypterus castaneus   GA
Striated grassbird  Megalurus palustris GH
Clamorous reed warbler  Acrocephalus stentoreus   TL
Zitting cisticola  Cisticola juncidis      Y, GW, L, N, LB
Golden-headed cisticola  Cisticola exilis   DB, GL
Hill prinia  Prinia atrogularis   GK, MS,
Bar-winged prinia  Prinia familiaris      MS, C, GG, BB
Yellow-bellied prinia  Prinia flaviventris   WK
Plain prinia  Prinia inornata     MA
Mountain tailorbird  Orthotomus cuculatus     GK, GG, GA, KM, [GL], RK
Dark-necked tailorbird  Orthotomus atrogularis      WK
Rufous-tailed tailorbird  Orthotomus sericeus     [WK]
Ashy tailorbird  Orthotomus ruficeps      MS, WK, MA
Olive-backed tailorbird  Orthotomus sepium GH, GG, BB
Arctic warbler  Phylloscopus borealis     LT
Mountain leaf warbler  Phylloscopus trivirgatus     GK, GH, GG
Sulawesi leaf warbler  Phylloscopus sarasinorum    GA
Timor leaf warbler  Phylloscopus presbytes    KM, GL, RK
Yellow-breasted warbler  Seicercus montis     KM
White-rumped warbler  Seicercus grammiceps    GK, GH, GG
Yellow-bellied warbler  Abroscopus superciliaris     C
Sumba jungle flycatcher  Rhinomyias  GW, L
Flores jungle flycatcher  Rhinomyias oscillans    RK
Asian brown flycatcher  Muscicapa dauurica GS A single bird observed at the camp site on the slopes of Gunung Sahengbalira may be only the second record for Wallacea.
Sumba brown flycatcher  Muscicapa segregata  GW, L Pair nest-building at Lewa.
Verditer flycatcher  Eumyias thalassina      MS
Island flycatcher  Eumyias panayensis  GA
Indigo flycatcher  Eumyias indigo    GK, GH, GG
Snowy-browed flycatcher  Ficedula hypererythra    GK, GG, GA
Sumba flycatcher  Ficedula harterti  GW, L
Little pied flycatcher  Ficedula westermanni    GK, GG, GA, KM, GL, RK, RM
Rufous-vented niltava  Niltava sumatrana GK
Matinan flycatcher  Cyornis sanfordi    GA
Hill blue flycatcher  Cyornis banyumas     B
Pygmy blue flycatcher  Muscicapella hodgsoni   GK
Grey-headed flycatcher  Culicicapa ceylonensis GK, MS, GG, LM, GW, L, PT
Citrine flycatcher  Culicicapa helianthea     GA
Flyeater  Gerygone sulphurea    [MA], BB, KM, RK, LB
Black-naped monarch  Hypothymis azurea    MS, WK, BB, T, DB, KF, LM, KM, GN, N, P
Caerulean paradise flycatcher  Eutrichomyias rowleyi    GS
Asian paradise flycatcher  Terpsiphone paradisi      WK, LM, GW, L, FM, GN, P, LB
Rufous paradise flycatcher  Terpsiphone cinnamomea      LT, BT
Island monarch  Monarcha cinerascens  LT
Spectacled monarch  Monarcha trivirgatus    LM, GW, L, GN
Rufous-tailed fantail  Rhipidura phoenicura   GG
White-throated fantail  Rhipidura albicollis   GK
White-bellied fantail  Rhipidura euryura   GH
Pied fantail  Rhipidura javanica   WK, MA, BB
Brown-capped fantail  Rhipidura diluta    KM, GL, RK, RM
Rusty-bellied fantail  Rhipidura teysmanni    GA
Rufous fantail  Rhipidura rufifrons  GW, L, FM, GN, N
Sulphur-bellied whistler  Pachycephala sulfuriventer GA
Common golden whistler  Pachycephala pectoralis [LM], GW, L, [FM], KM, GN, N, P, PT, LB, K
Bare-throated whistler  Pachycephala nudigula  KM, GL, RK, RM
Sangihe shrike-thrush  Colluricincla sangirensis     GS
Pygmy tit  Psaltria exilis GH, GG
Great tit  Parus major GK, C, GG, GW, L, KM, RK, LB
Velvet-fronted nuthatch  Sitta frontalis      WK, GH
Blue nuthatch  Sitta azurea GK, GH, GG
Yellow-breasted flowerpecker  Prionochilus maculatus MS
Crimson-breasted flowerpecker  Prionochilus percussus      WK
Golden-rumped flowerpecker  Dicaeum annae KM, GL, RK
Thick-billed flowerpecker  Dicaeum agile     L, P
Yellow-sided flowerpecker  Dicaeum aureolimbatum T, DB, GA, GS, KF
Orange-bellied flowerpecker  Dicaeum trigonostigma    MS, WK
Crimson-crowned flowerpecker  Dicaeum nehrkorni GA
Black-fronted flowerpecker  Dicaeum igniferum     N, P
Blood-breasted flowerpecker  Dicaeum sanguiniolentum     GG, LM, GW, L, FM, RK
Grey-sided flowerpecker  Dicaeum celebicum    Ujung Pandang, T, DB, GA, GS, LT, BT
Buff-bellied flowerpecker  Dicaeum ignipectus GK
Scarlet-headed flowerpecker  Dicaeum trochileum Bandar Lampung, C, MA, B
Plain sunbird  Anthreptes simplex      MS
Plain-throated sunbird  Anthreptes malacensis    B, BB, T, GS, KF, FM, GN, LB
Ruby-cheeked sunbird  Anthreptes singalensis  MS, WK, C
Purple-naped sunbird  Hypogramma hypogrammicum    MS
Black sunbird  Nectarinia aspasia      T, GS, LT, KF
Olive-backed sunbird  Nectarinia jugularis   BB, Ujung Pandang, T, DB, GA, N, LB
Apricot-breasted sunbird  Nectarinia buettikoferi    LM, L, FM
Flame-breasted sunbird  Nectarinia solaris    KM, GN, N, PT, LB, K
Elegant sunbird  Aethopyga duyvenbodei   GS
White-flanked sunbird  Aethopyga eximia     GG
Crimson sunbird  Aethopyga siparaja    WK, KF
Temminck's sunbird  Aethopyga temminckii GK, MS
Violet-tailed sunbird  Aethopyga mystacalis   C, GH
Little spiderhunter  Arachnothera longirostra C
Yellow-eared spiderhunter  Arachnothera chrysogenys   MS
Grey-breasted spiderhunter  Arachnothera affinis  MS
Oriental white-eye  Zosterops palpebrosus GK, GH, GG, KM, P
Black-capped white-eye  Zosterops atricapilla   GK
Everett's white-eye  Zosterops everetti   LT
Mountain white-eye  Zosterops montanus  GK, KM, GL, RK
Yellow-spectacled white-eye  Zosterops wallacei    LM, GW, L, FM, KM, GW, N, PT, LB, K
Lemon-bellied white-eye  Zosterops chloris   BB, Ujung Pandang
Ashy-bellied white-eye  Zosterops citrinellus     W, GW
Black-ringed white-eye  Zosterops anomalus KF
Black-fronted white-eye  Zosterops atrifrons T, GA
Streak-headed darkeye  Lophozosterops squamiceps GA
Grey-throated darkeye  Lophozosterops javanicus   GH, GG
Yellow-browed darkeye  Lophozosterops superciliaris      KM, GL, RK
Crested darkeye  Lophozosterops dohertyi  KM, P, PT
Thick-billed darkeye  Lophozosterops crassirostris  KM, GN
Scaly-crowned honeyeater  Lichmera lombokia  KM, GL, RK
Indonesian honeyeater  Lichmera limbata Y, LM
Sulawesi myzomela  Myzomela chloroptera   DB, GA
Helmeted friarbird  Philemon buceroides    LM, GW, L, KM, GN, N, RM, P, K
Dark-eared myza  Myza celebensis   GA
White-rumped munia  Lonchura striata     MS
Javan munia  Lonchura leucogastroides  C, Negara (Bali)
Black-faced munia  Lonchura molucca  DB, W, LM, FM, KM, N, P
Scaly-breasted munia  Lonchura punctulata   MA, BB, FM, KM, GL
Five-coloured munia  Lonchura quinticolor     GL
Chestnut munia  Lonchura malacca  Ujung Pandang, T, DB, GA
White-headed munia  Lonchura maja   GK, B
Pale-headed munia  Lonchura pallida   Ujung Pandang, TL
Eurasian tree sparrow  Passer montanus    MS, GG, GS, GL
Short-tailed starling  Aplonis minor GW, L, KM, GL
Asian glossy starling Aplonis panayensis  BB, PB, DB, BT, LT
Black-winged starling  Sturnus melanopterus BB
Bali starling  Leucopsar rothschildi    BB, Two or three birds (of the remaining six wild birds) on 1/8.
White-vented myna  Acridotheres javanicus   Manado, Y
Short-crested myna  Basiliornis celebensis  T
White-necked myna  Streptocitta albicollis     T, DB
[Hill myna]  Gracula religiosa   [WK]
Fiery-browed myna  Enodes erythrophris   GA
Finch-billed myna  Scissirostrum dubium   T, DB
Black-naped oriole  Oriolus chinensis   MA, B, BB, T, DB, GS, LT, L, FM, P, K
Black-and-crimson oriole  Oriolus cruentus   MS
Black drongo  Dicrurus macrocercus BB
Ashy drongo  Dicrurus leucophaeus  MS, C, B, MI, GG
Bronzed drongo  Dicrurus aeneus     WK
Lesser racquet-tailed drongo Dicrurus remifer  GK, GH, GG
Sumatran drongo  Dicrurus sumatranus     MS
Sulawesi drongo  Dicrurus montanus    GA
Spangled drongo  Dicrurus bracteatus   PR, GS
Wallacean drongo  Dicrurus densus LM, GW, L, KM, GN, N, GL, RK, P, LB, K
Hair-crested drongo Dicrurus hottentottus    BB, T, DB, KF
Greater racquet-tailed drongo  Dicrurus paradiseus WK
White-breasted woodswallow  Artamus leucorynchus     PR, GH, BB, DB, GA, GW, FM
Ivory-backed woodswallow  Artamus monarchus   T, DB
Crested jay  Platylophus galericulatus    MS
Sumatran treepie  Dendrocitta occipitalis   GK, MS
Racquet-tailed treepie  Crypsirina temia    MA, BB
Slender-billed crow  Corvus enca      WK, PB, T, DB, GA
Flores crow  Corvus florensis    [GN], N, P
Large-billed crow  Corvus macrorhynchos  GK, LM, GW, FM, KM, K


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