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Indonesia 2001,
Introduction
We spent the period between 5th June and 13th October 2001 birding in Indonesia, visiting sites on Sumatra, Java, Bali, Sulawesi, Sanghie, Talaud, Sumba, Flores, Komodo and Sumbawa. Indonesia is fantastic birding, the high level of endemism and the overall diversity (cultural and biological) throughout the country make it a stunning destination. It is hard work though, the archipelago that makes up this country is vast and consists of over 13,000 islands. The birds are well-spread across the country and to see the majority of them would be the work of a lifetime. Got to give a go though haven't you? Additionally many areas are very poorly covered and discoveries still remain to be made - for example at least five new species of bird have been discovered in Wallacea in the last 20 years. Keep notes of what you see and you will undoubtedly add to the knowledge of the ornithology of the region.
The downside is that Indonesia is politically very unstable and has been wracked by internal troubles in the recent past. Our itinerary was to a certain extent dictated by these various problems. Malaku is currently off-limits so sadly Halmahera (reputed to be the finest birding in the world) was off-limits. Keep you ear to the ground and look at the Foreign and Commonwealth Office website if you are concerned about your safety in specific areas. We had a presidential impeachment (peaceful and the second of our whole trip) and the backlash from the bombing of Afghanistan to deal with but got through it all OK. Best to register with the British Embassy if the political climate looks bad, usually though foreigners are unaffected by internal political struggles. One thing that will affect you, if you visit Indonesia, is the effect of the recent de-centralisation of government which appears to have negatively impacted on the management and protection of National Parks in many areas. A lot of illegal logging is going on as a result.
We used the handy book by Paul Jepson Birding Indonesia and two antique reports by the late Tim Andrews (1989 - Birding in Indonesia) and Dave Gibbs (1993 - Wallacea) - both excellent but well out of date now. Most sites are we visited are well covered in the Jepson book so we do not give too many logistical details. If you are visiting Sumatra try and get hold of Verbelen's superb trip report for this island. If you are planning a lengthy tour in Indonesia make sure you have a well-stocked first-aid kit - we needed ours a lot!
You only get a two month visa for Indonesia so if you plan to stay longer you have to go out and back in again. We flew Java to Singapore to renew our visas, the cheapest option by a long way (GBP60-80 return with Emirates). We also used many internal flights with Garuda and Merpati and these are best booked in-country. We were served well by Vayatour in Bogor (Gedung Setyajaya Lt. 2, Jalan Raya Pajarajan No. 23, Bogor 16143, Indonesia. Tel: 0251 356861. Fax: 0251 356865. email vayabgr@indo.net.id). If you find a friendly immigration office somewhere in Indonesia that will extend tourist visas please let me know!
We send our special thanks to Pete Wood and Anny Andaryati for adopting us during our time in Bogor and allowing us the use of their house, car and driver whilst on Java. Thanks also go to Pete Hayman who spent a six week period with us and was excellent company and provided a lot of added value on the birding front. We also thank Frank Lambert, Liz and the Cam-dude, Pete Wood and Anny, Andy Adcock and Bob Roberts for their company in the field at various points. Dominique Verbelen and Edward Vercruysse kindly supplied much needed gen and tapes for Sumatra. On the domestic front we were well catered for by a number of Indonesian guesthouse operators and guides and would especially like to thank again Pak Subandi (Gunung Kerinci), Freddy (Gunung Gede), Wesley (Sanghie) and Henrik (Ujung Pandang) for their time and effort.
Site details
8/6 - 19/6 Gunung Kerinci (Sumatra)
Arrived in Indonesia via ferry from Singapore and spent two days getting
from Batanta to Gunung Kerinci. Spent a lengthy period here staying with Pak
Subandi. Frank Lambert came up and birded with us the first weekend. Birding
here was good but birds shy and at low density and signs that many are being
trapped out. Did see most of the specialities but failed miserably with the
cochoa, peacock-pheasant and the pitta. It transpired later that both Frank
and I were suffering from typhoid! Hard work but good value. Highlights included;
red-billed partridge, Salvadori's pheasant, pale-headed frogmouth, Sumatran
green pigeon, Sumatran trogon, whistling-thrushes, Sunda warbler, Sunda blue
robin and long-billed wren-babbler.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus from nearby Sungei Penuh to Keresik Tuo. Get dropped off
at Pak Subandi's Homestay. This is one of the most pleasant homestays we stayed
in Indonesia and very good value. Subandi and family are used to catering
for birders and will provide packed lunches and give you a lift to the start
of the trail up the volcano before dawn. Ask to see the logbook for the latest
information. Bird the trail that leads up the mountain and ask Subandi for
a lift to the Letter W waterfall one afternoon for giant swiftlet. We struggled
here partly due to illness but also because this is very hard birding. We
got very close to seeing the pitta and the cochoa but failed. Trapping here
is sadly reducing the number of laughing-thrushes and pheasants. Allow plenty
of time here if you want to clean up. Do not ignore warnings from the locals
if the volcano is active (as it was when we were here) - we were advised not
to go near the summit.
20/6 - 22/6 Mauro Sako (Sumatra)
Spent a day birding the road and did not hear any graceful pittas. We
did get the bulbuls, drongo and blue-masked leafbird though and saw a good
selection of other birds but I was starting to feel quite unwell at this point.
After a 36 hour bus journey to Bandar Lampung I collapsed in a heap and was
diagnosed with typhoid and ordered to bed for ten days!
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Take a bus from Sungei Penuh for the short hop to Mauro Sako. Get dropped
off at the restaurant in town and contact the kepala desa for a place to stay
the night. We were well looked after here. Hitch/walk back up the hill to
near the pass and walk back down to the village looking for the specialities.
Graceful pitta is staked out here but the road menders had removed all the
km posts when we were here so we could not find the site! See the logbook
at Pak Subandi's for details.
5/7 - 9/7 Way Kambas (Sumatra)
Felt a little shaky after my run-in with typhoid so took it pretty easy.
Mostly birded at night and did rather well; large frogmouth (4+ sightings),
Gould's frogmouth (1), reddish Scops-owl (1) and heard tiger! Also managed
to see a white-winged wood-duck which was one of the birds of the trip for
me. Other birds of note included Storm's stork (excellent views on the deck)
and cinnamon-headed green pigeon.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus from Bandar Lampung to Raja Basalam. From there we hired
motorbike taxis to take us to the Way Kanan Ranger Post (about 20 km). Get
your permits at the check post on the way in and pray that there will be accommodation
available when you arrive. The guesthouse is rather run-down. Take all your
food in with you and cook in the staff kitchen by the main building. We took
a guide into the swamp one morning and saw a single white-winged wood-duck.
The loop trial is quiet but is a good place to see Sumatran tiger (we dipped
but heard one at night - you may be luckier). There is a small pool along
the loop track, approach this with caution as if often holds a Storm's stork.
We spent most of our time birding at night along the access track.
9/7 - 12/7 Carita (Java)
Met up with Pete Wood and Pete Hayman here and spent a long night searching
for a calling Javan frogmouth but I think our torches were not bright enough
to pick it out. It was so close. I had a relapse of typhoid to contend with
here so things did not go too well. Did manage to see white-breasted babbler
but only heard black-banded barbet.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
The logistics of getting to this site are well covered in Jepson's book.
We birded the main drag to the waterfall and saw a few birds. Pretty disappointing
though and if you have time I would visit Gunung Halimun (has the babbler)
and Pangandaran (has the barbet) instead.
14/7 Maura Angke and Pulau Rambut (Java)
Borrowed a friend's driver and car and went for a day out with Pete Hayman.
First stop was the small beleaguered wetland of Maura Angke in Jakarta. Allegedly
a site for the scarce Javan coucal. We sadly failed to score but did see a
number of new birds for the trip including Sunda teal, Javan plover, small
blue kingfisher and Horsfield's bronze cuckoo. Spent the afternoon taking
a boat out to Pulau Rambut which was crawling with pied imperial pigeons as
well as hosting a big colony of waterbirds (ibises, storks, cormorants and
herons).
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Both sites covered in Jepson's book. We covered both in a day with the
aid of a car. At Maure Anke concentrate on the are around the observation
tower for the coucal (they can be difficult though).
17/7 - 20/7 Megah Indah, Gunung Halimun
National Park (Java)
On the first day Annie, Pete Hayman and I went up to a posh housing estate
at Megah Indah where Pete Wood had recently seen Javan kingfisher. We were
not disappointed and soon found a pair flying around and perching for us.
Also had orange-spotted bulbul here. Later the same day we all headed for
Gunung Halimun National Park. This place was good and is at a slightly lower
altitude than Gunung Gede. It produced the birds we hoped for proving good
for dark-backed imperial pigeon, Javan trogon, white-bellied fantail and white-breasted
babbler, as well as some of the commoner endemics.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Megah Indah housing estate is on the left as you drive up to Gunung Gede.
It is about 4 km before the Safari Park - the left turning just after a mosque
with an unusual geometric roof design. There is a check-point but the guard
will probably let you through.
We accessed the Gunung Halimun NP via the Citralahab/Cikaniki entrance. From Bogor take the Sukabumi road until you go through Purung Kuda. Just after this town there is a signed right turn to the Park. Follow the signs until reaching the village of Cipenteng and stop for permits at the National Park HQ. Continue on along the rough dirt track that leads to Cikaniki and Citralahab. Expensive accommodation is available at the Research Station at Cikaniki (bring your own food) or you can stay in homestays and losmen in nearby Citralahab. Cikaniki is best for birding as two trails lead from the back of the hostel and there is a canopy walkway nearby. We birded the loop trail to Citralahab and the Gunung Kentang trail (the latter being the best for birds). It is possible to get to this site by public transport but probably cheaper and more convenient to hire a vehicle to get you to the site from Bogor - getting out is always easier!
23/7 - 26/7 Gunung Gede (Java)
I was again dogged by ill health here, this time in the form of a massive
nasal abscess! Painful and yet more antibiotics. So yet again did not bird
to our full potential and missed time in the field. Did see some great birds
and managed to climb to the summit and back in a day. Whole area hooching
with Indonesian students which must have impacted on the quality of the birding.
We failed to find the partridge, serin and the cochoa so plenty of reasons
to go back but did see most of the other specialities including Javan hawk
eagle, yellow-throated hanging-parrot and Javan tesia. Enjoyed staying with
Freddy even if he did call me Pinnochio for most of the week.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took one of the many minibuses waiting along the main drag in Bogor
that go up to Cianjur. From the junction to Cibodas there are many minibuses
that can take you the short distance (3 km)to Freddy's Homestay. On the right
as you approach the mountain about 1 km before Park HQ. Technically you need
a permit here but they wanted things like photocopies of passport and stuff
so we said we would go back later... Birding here is mainly along the main
path to the summit and this can be very crowded and noisy if it is the holidays.
We were unlucky. Later the park was closed for cleaning (!) but serious birders
were allowed in and the birding was apparently very good.
1/8 - 3/8 Bali Barat (Bali)
Took an overnight train across Java with the Hayman's to get to Bali.
Arrived at our hotel in the evening and within ten minutes a guide had arrived
asking if we wanted to see the Bali starling. Took a boat out to the site
the next day, stopping off for some snorkelling at Pulau Manjangan where we
had beach thick-knee, white-shouldered triller and lemon-bellied white-eye.
Then we went on to the area of the release pen where after a short walk we
were soon looking at a pair of Bali starlings. Superb but sobering. The next
day we went in search of black-winged starling and had good views of a single
bird as well as some nice yellow-throated hanging-parrots. All feeding in
flowering flame trees. Charlotte and I also managed our first banded pitta
of the trip here too. Hunted fruitlessly for Java sparrow for the remainder
of the stay.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
There are apparently only 6 Bali starlings remaining in the wild in the
Park. These are fairly easily but rather expensively available to all. We
were approached by guides within minutes of checking into our hotel in Gilimanuk.
We arranged permits and boats through our guide at the National Park HQ the
next day. The boat hire to the best area (near the release cages) costs Rupiah
150,000-200,000 for the first four hours and then Rupiah 20,000 per hour thereafter.
The park also insists on a 'donation' of Rupiah 200,000 (currently USD25)
per person. I was happy to pay this as they insist it goes towards conservation
of the bird but an official receipt was not possible apparently. I hope everything
is all above board.
We saw three Bali starlings relatively easily and also recorded beach thick-knee and great-billed heron. Black-winged starlings were hard to find and look set to become the next Bali starling along with Java sparrow (which we could not find at all). We eventually found black-winged starling by staking out some flowering trees that our guide knew about.
4/8 - 6/8 Pulau Bunaken (Sulawesi)
We flew ahead of Pete Hayman who was to accompany us for the Sulawesi
leg of our trip and spent a couple of enjoyable days at Pulau Bunaken. Snorkelling
and taking it easy. Probably the best snorkelling I have ever done - a fantastic
inshore reef system. Typically though there were no big fish.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
If you fancy this wonderful break from birding then logistical details
are in the Lonely Planet guide. You will not be able to get out of the airport without
being approached by touts wanting to get you out to the island.
6/8 - 9/8 Tangkoko (Sulawesi)
Picked up Pete from the airport and whisked him straight off to Tangkoko.
Stopped en route and picked up six new birds just like that. These included
our only views of Sulawesi crested myna. This site was a fantastic introduction
to the birds of Sulawesi and was very exciting. Used the spotlight I bought
in Singapore for the first time and saw green-backed wood kingfisher and Sulawesi
Scops-owl on the first day with it! Great birding. Very commercial here though
and the rangers spent most of their time trying to get us to part with our
money. Highlights included; red-knobbed hornbill (common), silver-tipped imperial
pigeon, two hanging-parrots, lilac kingfisher, isabelline waterhen, mynas
and cuckoo-shrikes.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Logistics covered well in Jepson book. We stayed at the Ranger Homestay.
We found that free access was barred without a guide but eventually we were
allowed in along the beach but not inland. We regularly cut inland before
the ranger station to circumvent this hindrance. The rates for guiding were
very steep by Indonesian standards and we just did not have the budget to
do it every day. In fact many of the endemics we saw were in open areas to
the right of the main track in before you get to the ranger post. You do have
to go in for some of the birds though. Combine a guided trip with a hunt for
spectral tarsier at dusk for value for money.
11/8 - 18/8 Dumoga-Bone National Park
(Sulawesi)
Arrived here to find the site was being selectively logged and was a right
mess. Loads of trees across the nature trail, lots of gaps in the canopy and
the bridge had fallen down. Made birding the site rather difficult and not
much fun. Also Charlotte and I both hit by a mystery virus and laid low for
a couple of days. All this combined to make this site my least favourite in
Sulawesi. Despite all this we did see some excellent birds including Sulawesi
hornbill, Sulawesi dwarf kingfisher, great-billed kingfisher, Sulawesi masked
owl and maroon-chinned fruit-dove.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Again well covered in Jepson. We stayed at Toraut - take your own food
if you are on a budget. No good guides were available when we were here -
we would have done better if there had been. Not getting lost occupied our
time. Wade the river and bird the trails in the forest on the other side.
We also saw birded along the road to the dam, crossed it, doubled back and
went up the small sidestream, accessing the forest by crossing a dodgy bridge
after 2 km.
21/8 - 26/8 Gunung Ambang (Sulawesi)
Having been warned away from Lore Lindu by local birders due to unrest
amongst the squatter there we elected to bird Gunung Ambang instead. This
proved to be a great idea as we clawed back a lot of the endemics we missed
by not going to Lore Lindu and saw a few species that are rarely observed.
We teamed up with Bob Roberts here (last seen on Doi Intanon). Star bird was
the cinnabar hawk owl that we located on a spotlighting session that yielded
four species of owl (Bob was impressed and I do not think I have ever done
better, sadly Pete elected to have an early night!). Other highlights here
were Sulawesi hawk-eagle, red-eared fruit-dove, white-bellied imperial pigeon,
purple-bearded bee-eater, red-backed thrush, Matinan flycatcher and lesser
Sulawesi honeyeater. Great birding at a little visited site.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
It is necessary to get a permit to visit this reserve beforehand. Go to
the National Park Office in Kotamobagu, which is in on Jalan AKD in suburb
of Mongkonai. We were accompanied by a ranger from Kotamobagu to the house
of the on-site ranger (Julius) in nearby Singsingon. We took plenty of food
for breakfast and lunch and ate at Julius' house every night. We stayed in
the abandoned ranger station (basic but OK, room for four to six people).
Julius can show you the trail on your first day and is good at spotting birds
but speaks no English. Bird this trail and try and get as high as you can,
there was a lot of logging going on when we were here but it was still very
good birding.
28/8 - 31/8 Gunung Sahengbalira (Sanghie)
Really off-piste now. Took an overnight ferry from Manado and arrived
in Tahuna, hooked straight up with the local conservation NGO and they took
us straight to the losmen that was to be our base for the next few days. We
elected not to waste time and after a short climb were camped at 600 meters.
The next day we went straight to the stake-out for the Caerulean paradise
flycatcher and after a five hour wait we were rewarded with good but distant
views. Also had no problem picking up the endemic elegant sunbird. On day
two we climbed high onto the ridge top to look for the shrike-thrush but only
got very bad views but did see the endemic hanging-parrot. After this we elected
to try another ridge top the next day and so dropped back down to the losmen
for a night in a real bed. Climbed slowly up the ridge at dawn and I quickly
connected with a family party of shrike-thrushes. Pete had gone on ahead but
eventually after about an hour he scored too. We ended the day looking at
a superb golden bulbul that our guide had picked up on call. Really special
forest on these ridgetops with an 'other-world' type feel to them. Before
we left the island we attempted to see Sanghie Scops-owl at Mahena neat Tahuna
but failed, the dip was brightened up considerably though by our first and
only spectral tarsier.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Sanghie is accessible from Manado by regular overnight ferries (Monday,
Wednesday and Friday @ 1800 hrs), a faster day ferry (weekday mornings but
broken when we were here) and a weekly (Monday) Merpati flight. On arrival
in Tahuna (or before) contact Fahrul at Yayasan Sampiri (Tel: 0432 21767 -
a local conservation NGO) - they will be able to help you get to some of the
sites. We elected to bird Gunung Sahengbalira and were quickly transported
by minibus to the Rainbow Losmen run by Phrets Pangimangan in Lilipan B just
past Tamako. A journey of just over two hours. Phrets has a brother called
Wesley who will guide you up into the good forest high on the ridges and gullies
of the mountain. Take a tent if you have one, otherwise you can stay in rudimentary
shelters (max 4 people). We spent two days birding here and had another day
on Gunung Batu Katirang - which is located up the track that passes the Rainbow
Losmen.
We spent just three days birding here and managed to see the following endemics; Sanghie shrike-thrush (5), Caerulean paradise-flycatcher (1), elegant sunbird (common) and Sanghie hanging-parrot (15+). We also saw the stunning local race of golden bulbul - which is, like the shrike-thrush, best located along the Gunung Batu Katirang ridge. The forest on top of the ridges here is very different from any other we visited in Indonesia and well worth seeing (you have to tell yourself that after climbing up to the ridgetops from sea level though). We failed to see the white-eye (very rare) and for some reason the scops-owl was silent. We tried again for the latter at the village of Mahena near Tahuna in plantation/forest edge habitat where the bird has been seen in the past but again no birds were calling. Note that red-and-blue lory no longer occurs on Sanghie and is now restricted to Talaud.
3/9, 7/9 Beo (Talaud)
We flew from Sanghie to Talaud and travelled up the bumpy road to Beo
which was to be our base here. We birded south along the road on a number
of days seeing some good birds in fairly disturbed and open habitat.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We flew from Sanghie (Naha) to Talaud (Melonguane on the southern tip
of Karakelang Island) with Merpati (GBP8). Whilst the infrastructure of Sanghie
is comparable with Northern Sulawesi the same cannot be said of Talaud. The
main island of Karakelang has the worst roads we saw in five months in Indonesia
and there are few buses or other forms of transport. Added to this the islands
are predominantly Christian and totally shut-down on Sundays. This combines
to make Talaud slightly more problematical to get around. The upside is that
there is still plenty of habitat and lots of birds.
From Melonguane airstrip we walked into town to the beachside bus stop and took a bus to Beo, where we stayed in the losmen opposite the Church. We also birded the road south of Beo and also had the lory here. There is a small wetland just outside town on this road which probably holds Talaud rail but we failed to score.
4/9 - 6/9 Lobo (Talaud)
Our main attempt at seeing some of the endemics hinged on a trip to the
plentiful forest of the island near the village of Lobo. We hooked up with
a local girl who acted on our behalf and headed up the road, meeting the kepala
desa of Lobo en route - he was getting drunk at a roadside café. He agreed
to take us into the forest for a couple of nights - a prospect we were not
exactly looking forward too but he proved (when sober) to be a congenial host
and his wife looked after us well. We camped in the forest and tramped around.
Could not find a sign of the bush-hen but did see the Talaud kingfisher and
had heart-stopping views of the lory. Also here great-billed parrot, yellow-eyed
imperial pigeon, island monarch and an interesting race of red-bellied pitta.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We took a bus to Lobo from Beo, meeting the kepala desa (village headman)
en route who offered to guide us into the forest near the village (Lobo).
Next day we walked for about two hours into good habitat where we camped and
enjoyed reasonable birding for two days. Rain was a problem (September).
Talaud being further from Northern Sulawesi appears to have had little attention from visiting birders as yet. Frank Lambert recently added two new endemic rails to the avifauna and an undescribed Ninox owl lurks in the woods. We saw none of these species in the time we had available. But did connect with Talaud kingfisher (common), red-and-blue lory (regular) and two nice supertramp species (island monarch and blue-tailed imperial pigeon).
Talaud is currently logistically more difficult than Sanghie but, with increasing numbers of birders thinking of heading in that direction, hopefully things will get easier and stakeouts for the harder species will be found.
8/9 - 9/9 Melonguane (Talaud)
Chilled out here for a couple of days whilst waiting for the plane. Plenty
of terns offshore and a solitary red-necked phalarope.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We flew back to Manado from Melonguane, having booked the ticket before
we realised how difficult it was to travel the 60 km from Beo to Melonguane
in order to connect with the flight. We would have been better taking one
of the night ferries out of Beo direct to Manado.
12/9 Karaenta Forest Reserve (Sulawesi)
and Ujung Pandang fishponds
Decided to spend 24 hours here and try and cosh off the white-eye that
is endemic to this arm of Sulawesi. On arrival at the airport we hooked up
with Hendrik who had guided birders before and we put everything in his hands.
The next day we were picked up and driven to Karaenta Forest. Good birding
here and we eventually saw about four black-ringed white-eyes which proved
to be surprisingly good birds. Hendrik also knew some good fishponds for waders
so we were soon in amongst lots of migrating waterbirds which was a pleasant
thing to do before taking our onward flight to Jakarta for another visa run
to Singapore.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We used a guide called Henrik (tel: 0411 553628) who arranged the car
and has worked with numerous birders. He knows the way to Karaenta which is
about 60 km from the city airport at Maros and also knows the best fishponds
(which are excellent during migration periods). If you cannot find Henrik,
charter a vehicle to take you towards Bantimurung (see Lonely Planet guide)
but keep on the main road at the rather grotesque ape archway and continue
for a few more kilometres.
Signs tell you when you have reached the forest reserve and there are marked trails off the road on the right. We saw about 4 white-eyes (listen for their pleasant short warbled song), mostly whilst walking along the road. They seemed to favour more open forest. Note that these birds do show lemon yellow vents (contra Coates and Bishop).
Henrik also know the way to Lompobatang flycatcher so I hope to meet him again soon!
18/9 - 19/9, 23/9 and 25/9 Waingapu mudflats
(Sumba)
Flew to here from Bali, flying over the dry landscape of Sumba, dry plateaux
with only patches of forest remaining. Over the next 2 weeks we spent a few
enjoyable days thrashing the mudflats at Waingapu and turned up some good
birds; Asian dowitcher (first for Sumba but no surprise), red knot (ditto)
and also far eastern curlew (a personal favourite).
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Accessed easily from the town. Details in Jepson's book.
19/9 Yumbu (Sumba)
Searched here one morning for Sumba buttonquail, could not get good views
on the deck but flushed several buttonquail, probably of two species (anyone
out there know how to distinguish Sumba from red-backed buttonquail in flight?).
Disappointing but we were rewarded for the hard work with two Oriental plovers.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We took a bus out to the site and jumped out
at the bridge.
20/9 Luku Melolo (Sumba)
Stopped here briefly en route to Gunung Wangameti and we were not disappointed.
We quickly added a number of island and regional endemics to our lists, including
the incredible red-naped fruit-dove. We also taped out chestnut-backed thrush
and heard our first elegant pitta.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We hired a car in Wangameti to drop us at Loraija
(Gunung Wangameti) going via Luku Melolo.
20/9 - 22/9 Gunung Wangameti (Sumba)
We were dropped off here for a couple of days. Stayed in the village in
the headman's house and wished yet again that we spoke better Indonesian and
knew how to be more polite in village society. This site is excellent and
we did well here despite only having a short time. Highlights included; elegant
pitta (at last pitta number 20, I have managed to dip four on this trip though!!),
cinnamon-banded kingfisher (superb), Sumba boobook, the three flycatchers,
and Sumba hornbill. The big surprise was a female superb fruit-dove, a sighting
that may indicate that an unknown population/subspecies of this species exists
on Sumba!!
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Details in Jepson's book. We birded along the tracks into the forest that
start after crossing the stream. You can hear cinnamon-banded kingfisher and
elegant pitta from your bed in the village - both can be found around the
stream crossing and this area is good for owls at night too.
24/9 - 25/9 Lewa (Sumba)
As we were missing two endemics (the green pigeon and the myzomela) we
decided to make a short trip to Lewa. Camped in the forest and as darkness
fell we heard the call of the Sumba 'scopsowl' a species discovered by birders
about ten years ago and yet to be described. We eventually taped a pair in
and decided that they were boobooks not Otus owls! Only time and a
shotgun will tell what genus these owls should truly be assigned to. Failed
to find the pigeon and the myzomela, so will have to go back to Sumba one
day.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Classic location - access details in Jepson's book. We birded forest edge
and a few trails going into the forest.
27/9 Ferry to Flores
Finally some seabird action. Woke before dawn and joined the crew up by
the bridge whilst Charlotte slept. Enjoyed a few excellent birds on the deepwater
shelf off the south coast of Flores before we docked at Ende. Highlights included
Wilson's storm petrel, streaked shearwater and large flocks of red-necked
phalarope.
27/9 - 28/9 Keli Mutu (Flores)
Visited this tourist venue to see the volcanic lakes but it produced a
surprising number of good birds as well. We arrived at the top at dawn and
slowly walked the 12 km back from the top. Very little good habitat but the
birds kept coming through the day. Managed to see ten new birds which included
all three regionally endemic darkeyes.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Well covered in Jepson and the Lonely Planet guide. We took a lorry to
the top and birded all the way back to Moni - very disturbed but plenty of
birds.
30/9 - 1/10 Kisol area (Flores)
Stayed at the Catholic seminary in the village and birded the nearby mountain
(Gunung Ndeki) and coastal areas (Nangarawe). Good but rather slow birding
here. Highlights included Flores crow, white-rumped kingfisher and black-backed
fruit-dove. Failed to find Flores green pigeon.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We stayed at the seminary (details in Jepson). If you are female watch
the seminary boys - they can get a little too curious when you take a shower.
We used a seminary vehicle to get to and from Nanagarawe. Negotiate prices
here beforehand it was too expensive really.
3/10 - 4/10 Ruteng (Flores)
More montane birding around this mountain town. Managed to catch up with
five-coloured munia, Flores jungle flycatcher and little minivet here. Now
we were just chasing the three remaining Flores endemics, all of which we
managed to miss at Puarldo (see Jepson) and sites around Labuanbajo. Will
have to get back to Flores with some better gen sometime and try again. Interesting
birding though.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Plenty of accommodation and food in town. We birded Danau Rana Mese, Golo
Lusang and Gunung Ranaka - all detailed in Jepson.
6/10 - 7/10 Labuanbajo area (Flores)
Birded the Potawangka road (no joy finding any forest, but some birds)
and the Puarldo Telkom station (very little).
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
We birded these sites from our hotel in Labuanbajo. All details in Jepson.
8/10 - 11/10 Komodo
Chartered a fishing boat to take us to Komodo through the incredible channel
between Rinca and Komodo, all whirlpools and rip currents - amazing. Really
enjoyed this spot. Stayed here for a couple of nights and kicked back and
relaxed. Apart from the dragons and the yellow-crested cockatoos (only seen
at this site and now drastically reduced or extinct elsewhere) there is not
much going on here. Did manage a few interesting seabirds though including
sooty tern and brown booby. Having been abandoned by the ferry on Komodo we
hired a small fishing boat to take us back to Flores. On the way managed our
first Bulwer's petrel. In Labuanbajo we had a chance to catch up on world
news and discovered that Afghanistan was being bombed! Great timing as we
were about to head through Sumbawa and Lombok both staunchly muslim islands.
Decided to shoot through as fast as possible.
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Arrange transport to Komodo in Labuan bajo. It is possible to get there
by ferry too but we waited in vain to get off the island and eventually chartered
a boat. Good accommodation and food on island. Birding limited as you are
not allowed in without a guide. Most birds can be seen on the guided dragon
walks and from the beach.
12/10 Lebuk Taliwang (Sumbawa)
The two days getting through Sumbawa and Lombok were not very pleasant,
the usual greeting of "Hello mister" had been abandoned in favour of "Are
you American?". We sat up front with the bus driver and listened quietly to
the rantings of the passengers behind us. Broke the journey by stopping at
Lebuk Taliwang where we had some nice wetland birds including comb-crested
jacana and glossy ibis (3 - possibly the first for the island).
Getting there, accommodation and birding the site
Take a bus from Labuahan Poto (where ferry from Lombok docks) to Taliwang
(1 hour). There are losmen here. Take a bus back up the road a few kilometres
to view the roadside lake.
13/10 Ferries to Bali
Excellent birding off all the ferries during this time!! More Bulwer's
petrels, brown boobies and one streaked shearwater. Reached the haven of Bali
safely, to hear that some tourists had been beaten up in Lombok that day.
This was in fact the last day of our year long trip as faced with all the
possibilities (post 9/11) we decided to call it a day and miss out on the
Indian leg of the trip. We were very tired!
Birds recorded in Indonesia between 4th June and 13th October 2001
Sites visited: Sumatra; Gunung Kerinci (GK) 8/6 - 19/6, Mauro Sako (MS) 20/6 - 22/6, Way Kambas (WK) 5/7 - 9/7. Java; Carita (C) 9/7 - 12/7, Maura Angke (MA) 14/7, Pulau Rambut (PR) 14/7, Bogor (B) 16/7, Megah Indah (MI) 17/7, Gunung Halimun (GH) 17/7 - 20/7, Gunung Gede (GG) 23/7 - 26/7. Bali; Bali Barat (BB) 1/8 - 3/8. Sulawesi; Pulau Bunaken (PB) 4/8 - 6/8, Tangkoko (T) 6/8 - 9/8, Dumoga-Bone NP (DB) 11/8 - 18/8, Gunung Ambang (GA) 21/8 - 26/8. Sanghie; Gunung Sahengbalira (GS) 28/8 - 31/8. Talaud; Beo (BT) 3/9 and 7/9, Lobo (LT) 4/9 - 6/9, Melonguane (MT) 8/9 - 9/9. Sulawesi; Karaenta Forest (KF) 12/9, Ujung Pandang fish ponds (UP) 12/9. Sumba; Waingapu (W) 18/9 - 19/9, 23/9 and 25/9, Yumbu (Y) 19/9, Luku Melolo (LM) 20/9, Gunung Wangameti (GW) 20/9 - 22/9, Lewa (L) 24/9 - 25/9, Gallery forest near Melolo (FM) 26/9. Flores; Keli Mutu (KM) 27/9 - 28/9, Gunung Ndeke (GN) 30/9, Nangarawe (N) 1/10, Golo Lusang (GL) 3/10, Gunung Ranaka (RK) 4/10, Danau Rana Mese (RM) 4/10, Potawangka (P) 6/10, Labuan bajo (LB) 6/10 and 7/10, Puarldo Telekom (PT) 7/10. Komodo (K) 8/10 - 11/10. Sumbawa; Lebok Taliwang (TL) 12/10. Birds in square brackets were heard only.
Bulwer's petrel Bulweri bulweri ferries in the Lesser Sundas, Two between Komodo and Labuanbajo
(Flores) on 9/10, five between Labuanbajo and Sumbawa on 11/10, three between
Sumbawa and Lombok on 13/10 and one between Lombok and Bali on the same day.
Streaked shearwater Calonectris leucomelas ferries in the Lesser Sundas, 20+ off Flores on 9/10
and 1 flying south from the Lombok to Bali ferry on 13/10.
Wilson's storm petrel Oceanitus oceanicus ferry to Ende.
At least two birds just off the south coast of Flores on 27/9.
Red-throated little grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis RM
Great frigatebird Fregata minor T
Lesser frigatebird Fregata ariel BB, T, LB, K
Christmas frigatebird Fregata andrewsi PR
Little black cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris PR
Little pied cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos LB, LT
Little cormorant Phalacrocorax niger MA
Oriental darter Anhinga melanogaster MA
Brown booby Sula leucogaster K, ferries
Single in the bay at Komodo one morning, two birds between Sumbawa and Lombok
and at least ten birds between Lombok and Bali.
Grey heron Ardea cinerea MA
Great-billed heron Ardea sumatrana K
Purple heron Ardea purpurea MA, Denpasar, DB, UP, LB, TL
Great egret Casmerodius albus LT
Intermediate egret Egretta intermedia PR, TL
White-faced heron Egretta novahollandae GW
Little egret Egretta garzetta
Pacific reef egret Egretta sacra T, W, K
Cattle egret Bubulcus ibis DB, GA, LB
Javan pond heron Ardeola speciosus MA, Denpasar, UP, W, TL
Striated heron Butorides striatus BB, UP
Black-crowned night heron Nycticorax nyticorax MA, B
Cinnamon bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus DB, TL
Black bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis BT
Milky stork Mycteria cinerea PR
Storm´s stork Ciconia stormi WK
Lesser adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus WK, Gilimanuk, BB
Glossy ibis Plegadis falcinellus PR, TL, Three birds at
Lebuk Taliwang on 12/10 may be the first record for Sumbawa.
Black-headed ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus PR
Osprey Pandion haliaetus WK
Jerdon's baza Aviceda jerdoni DB
Black-winged kite Elanus caeruleus GK, N, LB
Brahminy kite Haliastur indus T, DB, GA, BT, W, GW, N, LB, K
White-bellied fish-eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster C, PR, BB, T, GA, N, LB, K
Lesser fish eagle Ichthyophaga humilis DB
Grey-headed fish eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus WK
Short-toed eagle Circaetus gallicus P, PT
Crested serpent eagle Spilornis cheela MS, C, [GH], [GG]
Sulawesi serpent eagle Spilornis rufipectus GA, KF
Spotted harrier Circus assimilis T
Crested goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus WK
Sulawesi goshawk Accipiter griseiceps T, GA
Japanese sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis L, FM, N
Spot-tailed goshawk Accipiter trinotatus DB, GA
Brown goshawk Accipiter fasciatus LM, L, FM, LB
Variable goshawk Accipiter hiogaster K
Besra Accipiter virgatus GG
Vinous-breasted sparrowhawk Accipiter rhodogaster GA
Black eagle Ictinaetus malayensis GK, GG, DB, GA
Rufous-bellied eagle Hieraaetus kieneri MS
Changeable hawk eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus C, GH, BB, KM
Javan hawk eagle Spizaetus bartelsi GG
Sulawesi hawk eagle Spizaetus lanceolatus GA
Blyth's hawk eagle Spizaetus alboniger GK, MS
Black-thighed falconet Microhierax fringillarius WK, GH
Spotted kestrel Falco moluccensis GG, BB, DB, Y, GW, N, GL
Oriental hobby Falco severus DB
Peregrine falcon Falco peregrinus N, Single bird of migrant northern race calidus on 1/10. No previous record of this migrant race on Flores.
Wandering whistling duck Dendrocygna arcuata DB, TL
Lesser whistling duck Dendrocygna javanica RM, TL
White-winged duck Cairina scutulata WK
Sunda teal Anas gibberifrons MA, DB, W, TL
Pacific black duck Anas superciliosa RM, TL
Tabon scrubfowl Megapodius cummingi LT
Orange-footed scrubfowl Megapodius reinwardt K
Brown quail Coturnix australis roadsides on Sumba
Blue-breasted quail Coturnix chinensis DB
[Chestnut-bellied partridge] Arborophila javanica [GH], [GG]
Red-billed partridge Arborophila rubrirostris GK
Salvadori's pheasant Lophura inornata GK
Crested fireback Lophura ignita WK
[Red junglefowl] Gallus gallus [WK], [KF]
Green junglefowl Gallus varius BB, LM, GW, [L], FM, [N], [GL], [RM],
[P], [LB], K, TL
[Bronze-tailed peacock pheasant] Polyplectron chalcurum [GK]
[Great argus] Argusianus argus [MS], [WK]
Barred buttonquail Turnix suscitator GK, DB
Buff-banded rail Gallirallus philippensis T, DB, GA, GW, KM, LB
Barred rail Gallirallus torquatus T, DB, GA
White-browed crake Poliolimnas cinerea UP, TL
Isabelline bush-hen Amaurornis isabellina T, DB, [GA]
White-breasted waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus BB, DB, [KM], [P]
Common moorhen Gallinula chloropus TL
Purple swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio MA
Comb-crested jacana Irediparra gallinacea TL
Greater painted snipe Rostratula benghalensis DB, Between
6 and 9 birds together on a small wetland on the boundary of the National
Park on 15/08 - amazingly this constitutes only the second record for Sulawesi!
Grey plover Pluvialis squatarola W,K
Asian golden plover Pluvialis fulva MT, W, N, LB
Little ringed plover Charadrius dubius UP
Javan plover Charadrius javanicus MA
Malaysian plover Charadrius peronii BB, W, N, K
Lesser sand plover Charadrius mongolus W, N
Greater sand plover Charadrius leschenaultii UP, W, K
Oriental plover Charadrius veredus Y
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Batam, BT, W, K
Far eastern curlew Numenius madagascariensis W
Bar-tailed godwit Limosa lapponica W
Common redshank Tringa totanus W
Marsh sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis UP
Common greenshank Tringa nebularia UP, W
Wood sandpiper Tringa glareola UP, W, LB, TL
Terek sandpiper Xenus cinerea UP, W
Common sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos BB, T, LT, UP, W, N, LB, K
Grey-tailed tattler Heteroscelus brevipes LT, W
Ruddy turnstone Arenaria interpres UP, W
Asian dowitcher Limnodromus semipalmatus W Single bird on 18-19/09 was the first record
for Sumba.
Horsfield's woodcock Scolopax saturata GK
Great knot Calidris tenuirostris UP, W
Red knot Calidris canutus UP, W A single bird on 23/09 and 25/09 at Waingapu was
the first record for Sumba.
Sanderling Calidris alba UP, W
Rufous-necked stint Calidris ruficollis UP, W, LB
Long-toed stint Calidris subminuta UP
Curlew sandpiper Calidris ferruginea UP, W
White-headed stilt Himantopus leucocephalus UP
Red-necked phalarope Phalaropus lobatus PB, MT, off Flores, N, K, ferries. A small flock of
6 birds off PB on 6/08 was an early record.
Beach thick-knee Esacus magnirostris BB, N, K
Australian pratincole Stiltia isabella Denpasar airport
Pomarine skua Stercorarius pomarinus ferries. Two en route to Komodo on 8/10 and at least
25 between Labuanbajo and Sumbawa on 11/10.
Whiskered tern Chlidonias hybridus UP, K
White-winged tern Chlidonias leucopterus PR, UP
Gull-billed tern Gelochelidon nilotica PB, UP
Common tern Sterna hirundo MT, W
Black-naped tern Sterna sumatrana Batam, ferries, BB, K
Bridled tern Sterna anaethetus ferries
Sooty tern Sterna fuscata K
Little tern Sterna albifrons MT, UP, W
Great crested tern Sterna bergii ferries, W, K
Sunda pin-tailed pigeon Treron oxyura GK, [GH]
[Wedge-tailed green pigeon] Treron sphenura [GK]
Thick-billed green pigeon Treron curvirostra [WK], C
Grey-cheeked green pigeon Treron griseicauda T
Cinnamon-headed green pigeon Treron fulvicollis WK
Little green pigeon Treron olax WK
Pink-necked green pigeon Treron vernans BB, T
Black-backed fruit-dove Ptilinopus cinctus GN
Red-naped fruit-dove Ptilinopus dohertyi LM, GW, L
Pink-headed fruit-dove Ptilinopus porphyreus GK, GG
Red-eared fruit-dove Ptilinopus fischeri GA
Maroon-chinned fruit-dove Ptilinopus subgularis DB
Superb fruit-dove Ptilinopus superbus T, GA, GW No previous records for Sumba so our record
of an adult female could indicate the presence of a hitherto undiscovered
sub-species.
Black-naped fruit-dove Ptilinopus melanospila B, T, DB, GS, LT,
BT, LM, L, FM, GN, N, P
White-bellied imperial pigeon Ducula forsteni GA
[Grey-headed imperial pigeon] Ducula radiata [GA]
Green imperial pigeon Ducula aenea WK, T, DB, KF, LM, GW,
L, N, P, LB, K
Blue-tailed imperial pigeon Ducula concinna [GS], LT
Dark-backed imperial pigeon Ducula lacernulata GH
Pied imperial pigeon Ducula bicolor PR, PB
White imperial pigeon Ducula luctuosa T, DB
Rock pigeon Columba livia
Sulawesi black pigeon Turacoena manadensis T, DB
Barred cuckoo-dove Macropygia unchall KK
Slender-billed cuckoo-dove Macropygia amboinensis T, DB, GA, GS
Little cuckoo-dove Macropygia ruficeps [GK], [MS], [GH], [GW]
Island collared dove Streptopelia bitorquata BB
Spotted dove Streptopelia chinensis B, BB, T, GA, BT, Y, LM, KM, P, K
Zebra dove Geopelia striata BB
Barred dove Geopelia maugei Y, LM, FM, N, [P], LB, K
Emerald dove Chalcophaps indica MS, T, DB, GS, LT, LM, GW, L,
FM, GN, P
Stephan's dove Chalcophaps stephani T
Red-and-blue lory Eos histrio LT, BT
Ornate lorikeet Trichoglossus ornatus T, DB, [KF]
Rainbow lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus GW, L, KM, GN
Yellow-and-green lorikeet Trichoglossus flavoviridis GA
Yellow-crested cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea K
Red-cheeked parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi GW, L, FM, P
Yellow-breasted racquet-tail Prioniturus flavicans DB
Golden-mantled racquet-tail Prioniturus platurus [T], [DB],
[GA], LT
Blue-naped parrot Tanygnathus lucionensis LT
Blue-backed parrot Tanygnathus sumatranus T, DB, LT
Great-billed parrot Tanygnathus megalorhynchos LT, P
Red-breasted parakeet Psittacula alexandri MA, BB
Blue-rumped parrot Psittinus cyanurus WK
Blue-throated hanging-parrot Loriculus galgulus WK
Sulawesi hanging-parrot Loriculus stigmatus T, DB, GA
Sangihe hanging-parrot Loriculus catamene GS
Red-billed hanging-parrot Loriculus exilis T
Yellow-throated hanging-parrot Loriculus pusillus GG, BB
[Large hawk cuckoo] Cuculus sparveroides [GH]
Oriental cuckoo Cuculus saturatus GK, [GH], [GG], GW, GN, [RK], LB
Banded bay cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii C
Plaintive cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus [GK], [WK], MA, B
Rusty-breasted cuckoo Cacomantis sepulcralis [GK], [C], [GG], GA, LM, [L], [FM], [RK], [P], [PT]
Horsfield's bronze cuckoo Chrysococcyx basalis MA
Drongo cuckoo Surniculus lugubris [MS], [WK]
Asian koel Eudynamys scolopacea PR, GS, [LT], [L], [K]
Black-billed koel Eudynamys melanorhyncha T, [DB], [GA]
Black-bellied malkoha Rhopodytes diardi WK
Yellow-billed malkoha Rhamphococcyx calyorhynchus T, DB, GA
Chestnut-breasted malkoha Rhamphococcyx curvirostris GH, GG, BB
Greater coucal Centropus sinensis MS, WK
Lesser coucal Centropus bengalensis GK, T, DB, GA, BT, GW, [N], P
Bay coucal Centropus celebensis DB, [GA]
Barn owl Tyto alba Sungei Penuh
Sulawesi owl Tyto rosenbergii DB, GA, Manado
Reddish scopsowl Otus rufescens WK
Sulawesi scopsowl Otus manadensis T, GA, [Manado]
[Rajah scopsowl] Otus brookii [GK]
[Collared scopsowl] Otus bakkamoena [WK], [GG]
[Barred eagle owl] Bubo sumatranus [GK]
Mystery Scops/boobook sp Otus/Ninox sp. [GW], L
Sumba boobook Ninox rudolfi GW
Brown hawk owl Ninox scutulata [WK]
Ochre-bellied boobook Ninox ochracea [DB]
Cinnabar boobook Ninox ios GA
Speckled boobook Ninox punctulata GA
[Brown wood owl] Strix leptogrammica [WK]
Large frogmouth Batrachostomus auritus WK
Gould's frogmouth Batrachostomus stellatus WK
Pale-headed frogmouth Batrachostomus poliolophus GK
[Javan frogmouth] Batrachostomus javensis [C]
[Blyth's frogmouth] Batrachostomus affinis [WK]
[Sunda frogmouth] Batrachostomus cornutus [WK]
Malaysian eared nightjar Eurostopodus temminckii WK
Great eared nightjar Eurostopodus macrotis T, [DB], GA,
[Manado]
[Large-tailed nightjar] Caprimulgus macrurus WK, [L]
[Sulawesi nightjar] Caprimulgus celebensis [T]
Savanna nightjar Caprimulgus affinis [Bandar Lampung], Denpasar, [N]
[Bonaparte's nightjar] Caprimulgus concretus [WK]
Waterfall swift Hydrochous gigas GK
Volcano swiftlet Aerodramus vulcanorum GG
Edible-nest swiftlet Aerodramus fuciphagus L, P, LB
Uniform swiftlet Aerodramus vanikorensis DB
Moluccan swiftlet Aerodramus infuscatus T, DB, GA, GS
Glossy swiftlet Collocalia esculenta GK, MS, T, GA, GS, LM, GW, L, FM, KM, GL, P, PT
Cave swiftlet Collocalia linchi C, B, GG
Brown-backed needletail Hirundapus giganteus BB
Purple needletail Hirundapus celebensis DB, GA
Silver-rumped swift Rhaphidura leucopygialis MS
Fork-tailed swift Apus pacificus L
Little swift Apus affinis Ujung Pandang, KM
Asian palm-swift Cypsiurus balasiensis WK, BB, Ujung Pandang, DB The Dumoga-Bone record
(a single bird with swiftlet flock on 14/08) may be the first record for North
Sulawesi.
Grey-rumped treeswift Hemiprocne longipennis WK, GH, BB, T, DB, GA
Whiskered treeswift Hemiprocne comata MS
Javan trogon Harpactes reinwardtii GH
Sumatran trogon Harpactes mackloti GK
Red-naped trogon Harpactes kasumba WK
Scarlet-rumped trogon Harpactes duvaucellii WK
Common kingfisher Alcedo atthis T, DB, LT, W
Blue-eared kingfisher Alcedo meninting WK
Small blue kingfisher Alcedo coerulescens MA, BB, TL
Sulawesi dwarf kingfisher Ceyx fallax DB
Stork-billed kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis WK
Black-billed kingfisher Pelargopsis melanorhyncha DB
[Banded kingfisher] Lacedo pulchella [WK], [C]
Lilac-cheeked kingfisher Cittura cyanotis T, DB, GS
White-throated kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis [WK]
Javan kingfisher Halcyon cyanoventris MI, GG, Bali
Cinnamon-banded kingfisher Halcyon australasia GW
Sacred kingfisher Halcyon sancta BB, BT, Y, N, K
Collared kingfisher Halcyon chloris B, GG, BB, T, DB, GA, [LT], BT, LM, GN, GL, RK
Talaud kingfisher Halcyon enigma LT
White-rumped kingfisher Caridonax fulgidus GN
Green-backed kingfisher Actenoides monachus T, DB
[Scaly-breasted kingfisher] Actenoides princeps [GA]
Chestnut-headed bee-eater Merops leschenaulti BB
Blue-tailed bee-eater Merops philippinus MA, W, LM, FM, KM, N, K Birds found nesting at Nangarawe,
Flores.
Rainbow bee-eater Merops ornatus T
Red-bearded bee-eater Nyctiornis amictus MS
Purple-bearded bee-eater Meropogon forsteni GA Nest found at GA.
Purple-winged roller Coracias temminckii T
Dollarbird Eurystomus orientalis P
Bushy-crested hornbill Annorhinus galeritus GK, [MS]
Tarictic hornbill Penelopides exarhatus DB, KF
Red-knobbed hornbill Rhyticeros cassidix T, KF
Wreathed hornbill Rhyticeros undulatus GK, MS
Sumba hornbill Rhyticeros everetti GW
Asian black hornbill Anthracoceros malayanus WK
Rhinoceros hornbill Buceros rhinoceros MS
[Helmeted hornbill] Rhinoplax vigil [MS]
Fire-tufted barbet Psilopogon pyrolophus GK, [MS]
[Lineated barbet] Megalaima lineata [BB]
[Brown-throated barbet] Megalaima corvina [GH], [GG]
[Gold-whiskered barbet] Megalaima chrysopogon [MS]
Red-crowned barbet Megalaima rafflesii WK
[Black-banded barbet] Megalaima javensis [C]
[Black-browed barbet] Megalaima oorti [GK]
Orange-fronted barbet Megalaima armillaris GH, GG
Blue-eared barbet Megalaima australis [MS], [WK], C
Coppersmith barbet Megalaima haemacephala GK, [B]
Brown barbet Calorhamphus fuliginosus WK
Rufous piculet Sasia abnormis GH
Greater yellownape Picus flavinucha MS
Checker-throated woodpecker Picus mentalis GH, GG
Crimson-winged woodpecker Picus puniceus GH
Common goldenback Dinopium javanense WK, BB
Buff-rumped woodpecker Meiglyptes tristis WK
Ashy woodpecker Mulleripicus fulvus T, DB, KF
White-bellied woodpecker Dryocopus javensis WK
Fulvous-breasted woodpecker Dendrocopus macei MA, BB
Brown-capped woodpecker Dendrocopus moluccensis WK, MA, BB, KM, GN, RK, RM, P
Sulawesi woodpecker Dendrocopus temminckii T, GA Tangkoko; pair feeding young at nest
on 7/8.
Grey-and-buff woodpecker Hemicircus concretus C, GH
Maroon woodpecker Blythipicus rubiginosus [GK]
Orange-backed woodpecker Reinwardtipicus validus WK
Dusky broadbill Corydon sumatranus WK
Black-and-red broadbill Cymbirhynchus macrorhynchos WK
Banded broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus GH, GG
Black-and-yellow broadbill Eurylaimus ochromalus [MS], WK
[Schneider's pitta] Pitta schneideri [GK]
Banded pitta Pitta guajana [WK], [C], BB
Red-bellied pitta Pitta erythrogaster DB, LT, KF
Hooded pitta Pitta sordida WK, [GS]
Elegant pitta Pitta elegans [LM], GW, [L], [FM], [GN], [TL]
Singing bush-lark Mirafra javanica Y, L, N, LB
Barn swallow Hirundo rustica T, LT, Sumba, N, P, LB, K, TL
Pacific swallow Hirundo tahitica MS, PB, T, DB, GA, GS, Y
Striated swallow Hirundo striolata GH, GG, Y
Yellow wagtail Motacilla flava MT
Grey wagtail Motacilla cinerea KM
Richard's pipit Anthus novaeseelandiae Denpasar, Sumba, N, LB, K
[Javan cuckooshrike] Coracina javensis [BB]
Wallacean cuckooshrike Coracina personata LM, L, N, P
Caerulean cuckooshrike Coracina temminckii GA
Sunda cuckooshrike Coracina larvata GK
Bar-bellied cuckooshrike Coracina striata WK
Pied cuckooshrike Coracina bicolor T, DB
White-rumped cuckooshrike Coracina leucopygia T
Sumba cicadabird Coracina dohertyi LM, GW, L, RM, P
Sulawesi cicadabird Coracina morio T, DB, GA, LT
Lesser cuckooshrike Coracina fimbriata C
Pied triller Lalage nigra MA
Sulawesi triller Lalage leucopygialis T, GA
White-shouldered triller Lalage sueurii BB, UP, Y
Small minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus C, BB
Fiery minivet Pericrocotus igneus WK
Little minivet Pericrocotus lansbergei RK, P
Grey-chinned minivet Pericrocotus solaris GK
Sunda minivet Pericrocotus miniatus GK, GH, GG
Scarlet minivet Pericrocotus flammeus C
Bar-winged flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus GK
Black-winged flycatcher-shrike Hemipus hirundinaceus
WK, C, GH, GG
Cream-striped bulbul Pycnonotus leucogrammicus MS
Spot-necked bulbul Pycnonotus tympanistrigus MS
Black-headed bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps MS, WK, C
Black-crested bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus MS
Scaly-breasted bulbul Pycnonotus squamatus MS
Grey-bellied bulbul Pycnonotus cyaniventris MS
Sooty-headed bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster GK, C, MA, B, BB, Ujung
Pandang, T, KF
Orange-spotted bulbul Pycnonotus bimaculatus GK, MI
Yellow-vented bulbul Pycnonotus goavier GK, MA, BB
Olive-winged bulbul Pycnonotus plumosus WK
Cream-vented bulbul Pycnonotus simplex WK
Red-eyed bulbul Pycnonotus brunneus MS, WK, C
Spectacled bulbul Pycnonotus erythropthalmos MS
Ochraceous bulbul Criniger ochraceos MS
Grey-cheeked bulbul Criniger bres MS, C, GG
Buff-vented bulbul Hypsipetes charlottae MS
Hairy-backed bulbul Hypsipetes criniger MS
Golden bulbul Hypsipetes affinis GS
Sunda streaked bulbul Hypsipetes virescens MS, GH, GG
Ashy bulbul Hypsipetes flavala MS
Common iora Aegithina tiphia C, BB
Green iora Aegithina viridissima WK
Blue-winged leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis MS, GH
Blue-masked leafbird Chloropsis venusta MS
Asian fairy bluebird Irene puella MS
Long-tailed shrike Lanius schach GK, MA, GH, BB
Lesser shortwing Brachypteryx leucophyrys GK, GH, GG
White-browed shortwing Brachypteryx montana GK, GL
Magpie robin Copsychus saularis MS, WK
White-rumped shama Copsychus malabaricus [WK]
Sunda blue robin Cinclidium dianae GK, GG
Lesser forktail Enicrurus velatus GK, MS, GG
White-crowned forktail Enicrurus leschenaulti MI, GG
[Sumatran cochoa] Cochoa beccarii [GK]
Shiny whistling thrush Myophonus melanurus GK
Javan whistling thrush Myophonus glaucinus GH, GG
Sumatran whistling thrush Myophonus castaneus GK
Chestnut-backed thrush Zoothera dohertyi LM, GW
Red-backed thrush Zoothera erythronota GA
Island thrush Turdus poliocephalus GG
Black-capped babbler Pellorneum capistratum C
Ferruginous babbler Trichastoma bicolor WK
Horsfield´s babbler Trichastoma sepiarium [GH], GG
Sulawesi babbler Trichastoma celebense T, DB, GA, KF
Sooty-capped babbler Malacopteron affine WK
Scaly-crowned babbler Malacopteron cinereum C
Chestnut-backed scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus montanus GG
Long-billed wren-babbler Rimator malacoptilus GK
Rusty-breasted wren-babbler Napothera rufipectus GK
Eye-browed wren-babbler Napothera epilepidota GK, GH, GG
Pygmy wren-babbler Pnoepyga pusilla GK, GH, GG, [KM],
[GL], [RK], [RM]
Golden babbler Stachyris chrysaea GK
White-breasted babbler Stachyris grammiceps C, GH
Grey-throated babbler Stachyris nigriceps GK, MS
Grey-headed babbler Stachyris poliocephala MS
Spot-necked babbler Stachyris striolata GK
White-bibbed babbler Stachyris thoracica GH, GG
Chestnut-winged babbler Stachyris erythroptera WK
Crescent-chested babbler Stachyris melanothorax GG
Grey-cheeked tit-babbler Macronous flavicollis C
Striped tit-babbler Macronous gularis MS, WK, C
Fluffy-backed tit-babbler Macronous ptilinosus WK
Rufous-fronted laughingthrush Garrulax rufifrons GG
Black laughingthrush Garrulax lugubris MS
Chestnut-capped laughingthrush Garrulax mitratus MS
White-browed shrike-babbler Pteruthius flaviscapis GK,
GH, GG
Chestnut-fronted shrike-babbler Pteruthius aenobarbus
GH, GG
Brown fulvetta Alcippe brunneicauda MS
Javan fulvetta Alcippe pyrrhoptera GH, GG
Spotted crocias Crocias albonotatus GH, GG
Long-tailed sibia Heterophasia picaoides MS
Malia Malia grata GA
Javan tesia Tesia superciliaris GG
Russet-capped tesia Tesia everetti KM, [GL], [RK], RM, [PT]
Sunda bush warbler Cettia vulcania GK, [GG]
Chestnut-backed bush warbler Bradypterus castaneus GA
Striated grassbird Megalurus palustris GH
Clamorous reed warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus TL
Zitting cisticola Cisticola juncidis Y, GW, L, N, LB
Golden-headed cisticola Cisticola exilis DB, GL
Hill prinia Prinia atrogularis GK, MS,
Bar-winged prinia Prinia familiaris MS, C, GG, BB
Yellow-bellied prinia Prinia flaviventris WK
Plain prinia Prinia inornata MA
Mountain tailorbird Orthotomus cuculatus GK, GG, GA, KM, [GL], RK
Dark-necked tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis WK
Rufous-tailed tailorbird Orthotomus sericeus [WK]
Ashy tailorbird Orthotomus ruficeps MS, WK, MA
Olive-backed tailorbird Orthotomus sepium GH, GG, BB
Arctic warbler Phylloscopus borealis LT
Mountain leaf warbler Phylloscopus trivirgatus GK, GH,
GG
Sulawesi leaf warbler Phylloscopus sarasinorum GA
Timor leaf warbler Phylloscopus presbytes KM, GL, RK
Yellow-breasted warbler Seicercus montis KM
White-rumped warbler Seicercus grammiceps GK, GH, GG
Yellow-bellied warbler Abroscopus superciliaris C
Sumba jungle flycatcher Rhinomyias GW, L
Flores jungle flycatcher Rhinomyias oscillans RK
Asian brown flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica GS A single bird
observed at the camp site on the slopes of Gunung Sahengbalira may be only
the second record for Wallacea.
Sumba brown flycatcher Muscicapa segregata GW, L Pair nest-building
at Lewa.
Verditer flycatcher Eumyias thalassina MS
Island flycatcher Eumyias panayensis GA
Indigo flycatcher Eumyias indigo GK, GH, GG
Snowy-browed flycatcher Ficedula hypererythra GK, GG, GA
Sumba flycatcher Ficedula harterti GW, L
Little pied flycatcher Ficedula westermanni GK, GG, GA, KM, GL, RK, RM
Rufous-vented niltava Niltava sumatrana GK
Matinan flycatcher Cyornis sanfordi GA
Hill blue flycatcher Cyornis banyumas B
Pygmy blue flycatcher Muscicapella hodgsoni GK
Grey-headed flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis GK, MS, GG, LM, GW, L, PT
Citrine flycatcher Culicicapa helianthea GA
Flyeater Gerygone sulphurea [MA], BB, KM, RK, LB
Black-naped monarch Hypothymis azurea MS, WK, BB, T, DB, KF, LM, KM, GN, N, P
Caerulean paradise flycatcher Eutrichomyias rowleyi GS
Asian paradise flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi WK, LM,
GW, L, FM, GN, P, LB
Rufous paradise flycatcher Terpsiphone cinnamomea LT,
BT
Island monarch Monarcha cinerascens LT
Spectacled monarch Monarcha trivirgatus LM, GW, L, GN
Rufous-tailed fantail Rhipidura phoenicura GG
White-throated fantail Rhipidura albicollis GK
White-bellied fantail Rhipidura euryura GH
Pied fantail Rhipidura javanica WK, MA, BB
Brown-capped fantail Rhipidura diluta KM, GL, RK, RM
Rusty-bellied fantail Rhipidura teysmanni GA
Rufous fantail Rhipidura rufifrons GW, L, FM, GN, N
Sulphur-bellied whistler Pachycephala sulfuriventer GA
Common golden whistler Pachycephala pectoralis [LM], GW,
L, [FM], KM, GN, N, P, PT, LB, K
Bare-throated whistler Pachycephala nudigula KM, GL, RK, RM
Sangihe shrike-thrush Colluricincla sangirensis GS
Pygmy tit Psaltria exilis GH, GG
Great tit Parus major GK, C, GG, GW, L, KM, RK, LB
Velvet-fronted nuthatch Sitta frontalis WK, GH
Blue nuthatch Sitta azurea GK, GH, GG
Yellow-breasted flowerpecker Prionochilus maculatus MS
Crimson-breasted flowerpecker Prionochilus percussus
WK
Golden-rumped flowerpecker Dicaeum annae KM, GL, RK
Thick-billed flowerpecker Dicaeum agile L, P
Yellow-sided flowerpecker Dicaeum aureolimbatum T, DB, GA,
GS, KF
Orange-bellied flowerpecker Dicaeum trigonostigma MS,
WK
Crimson-crowned flowerpecker Dicaeum nehrkorni GA
Black-fronted flowerpecker Dicaeum igniferum N, P
Blood-breasted flowerpecker Dicaeum sanguiniolentum GG,
LM, GW, L, FM, RK
Grey-sided flowerpecker Dicaeum celebicum Ujung Pandang,
T, DB, GA, GS, LT, BT
Buff-bellied flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus GK
Scarlet-headed flowerpecker Dicaeum trochileum Bandar Lampung,
C, MA, B
Plain sunbird Anthreptes simplex MS
Plain-throated sunbird Anthreptes malacensis B, BB, T, GS, KF, FM, GN, LB
Ruby-cheeked sunbird Anthreptes singalensis MS, WK, C
Purple-naped sunbird Hypogramma hypogrammicum MS
Black sunbird Nectarinia aspasia T, GS, LT, KF
Olive-backed sunbird Nectarinia jugularis BB, Ujung Pandang, T, DB, GA, N, LB
Apricot-breasted sunbird Nectarinia buettikoferi LM, L, FM
Flame-breasted sunbird Nectarinia solaris KM, GN, N, PT, LB, K
Elegant sunbird Aethopyga duyvenbodei GS
White-flanked sunbird Aethopyga eximia GG
Crimson sunbird Aethopyga siparaja WK, KF
Temminck's sunbird Aethopyga temminckii GK, MS
Violet-tailed sunbird Aethopyga mystacalis C, GH
Little spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra C
Yellow-eared spiderhunter Arachnothera chrysogenys MS
Grey-breasted spiderhunter Arachnothera affinis MS
Oriental white-eye Zosterops palpebrosus GK, GH, GG, KM, P
Black-capped white-eye Zosterops atricapilla GK
Everett's white-eye Zosterops everetti LT
Mountain white-eye Zosterops montanus GK, KM, GL, RK
Yellow-spectacled white-eye Zosterops wallacei LM, GW, L, FM, KM, GW, N, PT, LB, K
Lemon-bellied white-eye Zosterops chloris BB, Ujung Pandang
Ashy-bellied white-eye Zosterops citrinellus W, GW
Black-ringed white-eye Zosterops anomalus KF
Black-fronted white-eye Zosterops atrifrons T, GA
Streak-headed darkeye Lophozosterops squamiceps GA
Grey-throated darkeye Lophozosterops javanicus GH, GG
Yellow-browed darkeye Lophozosterops superciliaris KM, GL, RK
Crested darkeye Lophozosterops dohertyi KM, P, PT
Thick-billed darkeye Lophozosterops crassirostris KM, GN
Scaly-crowned honeyeater Lichmera lombokia KM, GL, RK
Indonesian honeyeater Lichmera limbata Y, LM
Sulawesi myzomela Myzomela chloroptera DB, GA
Helmeted friarbird Philemon buceroides LM, GW, L, KM, GN, N, RM, P, K
Dark-eared myza Myza celebensis GA
White-rumped munia Lonchura striata MS
Javan munia Lonchura leucogastroides C, Negara (Bali)
Black-faced munia Lonchura molucca DB, W, LM, FM, KM, N, P
Scaly-breasted munia Lonchura punctulata MA, BB, FM, KM, GL
Five-coloured munia Lonchura quinticolor GL
Chestnut munia Lonchura malacca Ujung Pandang, T, DB, GA
White-headed munia Lonchura maja GK, B
Pale-headed munia Lonchura pallida Ujung Pandang, TL
Eurasian tree sparrow Passer montanus MS, GG, GS, GL
Short-tailed starling Aplonis minor GW, L, KM, GL
Asian glossy starling Aplonis panayensis BB, PB, DB, BT,
LT
Black-winged starling Sturnus melanopterus BB
Bali starling Leucopsar rothschildi BB, Two or three birds (of the remaining six wild
birds) on 1/8.
White-vented myna Acridotheres javanicus Manado, Y
Short-crested myna Basiliornis celebensis T
White-necked myna Streptocitta albicollis T, DB
[Hill myna] Gracula religiosa [WK]
Fiery-browed myna Enodes erythrophris GA
Finch-billed myna Scissirostrum dubium T, DB
Black-naped oriole Oriolus chinensis MA, B, BB, T, DB, GS, LT, L, FM, P, K
Black-and-crimson oriole Oriolus cruentus MS
Black drongo Dicrurus macrocercus BB
Ashy drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus MS, C, B, MI, GG
Bronzed drongo Dicrurus aeneus WK
Lesser racquet-tailed drongo Dicrurus remifer GK, GH, GG
Sumatran drongo Dicrurus sumatranus MS
Sulawesi drongo Dicrurus montanus GA
Spangled drongo Dicrurus bracteatus PR, GS
Wallacean drongo Dicrurus densus LM, GW, L, KM, GN, N, GL, RK, P,
LB, K
Hair-crested drongo Dicrurus hottentottus BB, T, DB, KF
Greater racquet-tailed drongo Dicrurus paradiseus WK
White-breasted woodswallow Artamus leucorynchus PR, GH, BB, DB, GA, GW, FM
Ivory-backed woodswallow Artamus monarchus T, DB
Crested jay Platylophus galericulatus MS
Sumatran treepie Dendrocitta occipitalis GK, MS
Racquet-tailed treepie Crypsirina temia MA, BB
Slender-billed crow Corvus enca WK, PB, T, DB, GA
Flores crow Corvus florensis [GN], N, P
Large-billed crow Corvus macrorhynchos GK, LM, GW, FM, KM, K
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