Background

I decided to take the opportunity to visit Kenya again when I saw the price of the Thomson flight from Manchester to Mombasa had reduced to £500. If I’d have waited a few more weeks, I could have got it for less than £300. I suppose the actions of the Somali pirates caused that. I can understand why people are nervous in such circumstances but the Somali border is a very long way from the areas frequented by most British tourists. Anyway, £500 is pretty good for a direct flight so off I went on the evening of 13 October, having driven from Northumberland earlier in the afternoon.

14 October

Arrived a few minutes late [missing Libyan airspace] and got a flyer. I was outside within 25 minutes and met by my friend Jonathan Baya [see www.tracktours.weebly.com for all the details]. Unfortunately, it had been raining very hard in the previous few days and roads were difficult. Heavy lorries have a tendency to tip over in such conditions and we got caught up in two long traffic jams, which cost us the best part of two hours. Eventually, we got going and we made our way towards Voi, and Sagala Lodge, where we were staying for the first night. We didn’t see much en route, Tawny Eagle and Pale Chanting Goshawk being the pick of a small bunch.

We arrived at Sagala at 1pm and quickly got into our stride. There were several Pink Breasted Larks in the bushy areas alongside the road and a few Golden Breasted Starlings and White Browed Sparrow Weavers. Once parked, we walked to the Lodge and had lunch, watching a pair of stunning African Paradise Flycatchers [white morph] chase each other around, while Vitelline Masked, Black Necked and Village Weavers got on with their nest making skills. After lunch we went for a walk around the grounds. This was my second visit to Sagala Lodge and once again, the site produced about 50 species in all. Pick of the afternoon were Orange Bellied Parrot, Brubru, Vulturine Guineafowl, Grey Wren Warbler, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Klass’s Cuckoo, a pair of Green Winged Pytilia and a few Black Throated Barbets. There were no lifers for me but it was very good to get such excellent views of these birds.

15 October

It was cloudy and rain was threatening as we walked the grounds at 6.30. We managed just about an hour before it became too wet to continue. In that time, we saw many of the birds seen on the previous day. Highlights, and new, were a Three Streaked Tchagra and a Diederik Cuckoo. We had breakfast and then started our journey to Taita Hills. Jonathan stopped for petrol at Voi and I watched 50 or more Little Swifts flying around the forecourt. Strange place for a nest.

We made our way slowly towards Taita Hills, stopping where we could to see a few birds along the way. It was getting wetter as we got closer. It didn’t look too promising. We got to the Taita Rocks Hotel [good value and comfortable] in mid afternoon. We were told it had been raining off and on for several days. There appeared to be little hope for an immediate change. Occasionally, there was a break in the clouds and I went outside to see what was around. Cape Robin Chat and 3 Common Fiscals was the answer. After another heavy shower, we went back outside to the back of the hotel. In the tallest tree, there were three Spot Flanked Barbets, an Amythest Sunbird and then one of the targets, a Taita White-Eye. A distant bird had me reaching for my book. All I could see was a red head and I couldn’t be sure what it was. I lost sight of it. Very frustrating at the time.

16 October

It was no surprise that the rain was still falling when I awoke. We had hoped to be able to leave fairly early to meet the ranger at the forest at Taita Hills but that was a non starter in view of the weather. Jonathan had arranged for a local guide, John, to make the necessary arrangements for the trip. John arrived to say that the road to the forest was almost impassable and that we would have to walk. Thankfully, as we were doing that, a Landrover came past and John persuaded the driver to give us a lift [for a fee].  We would never have made it on foot. Even then, the 4x4 couldn’t quite make it all the way. It was apparent that the area had suffered major rainfall and that normal service was not available!

Anyway, in low cloud and drizzle, we made our way to the ranger’s house and we met two guides who accompanied us for the rest of the morning. The conditions were unhelpful but improved slightly as we made our way along the track. We were surprised to see a Yellow Bishop sat out on the top of a bush. That was new bird for me, as was the Striped Pipit that followed shortly afterwards. After a long search, the guides were able to put me onto two Taita Thrush but no amount of calling, taping or praying brought us an Apalis. It just wasn’t their kind of day. Happily, I added a few lifers, with Stripe Cheeked Greenbul and Yellow-Throated Woodland Warbler showing well. I also saw a Scarce Swift, which was a new bird. Three adult White-Starred Robins weren’t new but were very good to see, as were two Hartlaub’s Turacos.

We said our farewells and drove back towards the Hotel for another off-road experience . We arrived in mid afternoon, by which time the weather was much better. A cup of tea followed and then I went back to the spot I had visited on the previous day. Immediately, my red headed bird was evident. In fact, there were two of them - Brown Breasted Barbets, which was another lifer. Nothing else was new.

17 October

I would have won a few quid if I had placed a bet on this morning’s weather. Sunny!!

Anyway, there was nothing I could do so we had breakfast and made our way back towards the main road. We had decided that we would visit the Saltlick area but having re-joined the main road to Taveta, we found ourselves facing another traffic jam, caused by the road being flooded and impassable for heavy vehicles. We decided we could do without the hassle so turned around and headed towards Voi.

We stopped the van at a likely-looking spot and walked around for a while. Rattling Cisticolas were singing out and then we heard a distant Red Chested Cuckoo. I told Jonathan that this would be a new bird for me so we drove further along the road and then made our way through a few bushes. As we got nearer, we disturbed a few small birds, one of which was a Purple Grenadier, a lifer for me! Then, just a little further and I got great views of the Cuckoo. It was a birdy place, with Black Backed Puffbird, Yellow Bishop, Little Bee-eaters, Hoopoe and Lilac Breasted Rollers dotted around. We got back into the van but hadn’t gone far before we were out again.  Large numbers of hirundines were flying low over the road in front of us. Closer inspection showed most of them to be Barn Swallows but I noticed that there were also a few large Swifts flying high above the trees. I got the scope and was able to confirm that they were all Alpine Swifts. There were hundreds of birds passing through and they put on an excellent show for at least 10 minutes before gradually edging away.

A brief detour enabled Jonathan to visit his Son’s In-Laws. I was invited inside and was made to feel very welcome. We were soon off towards the Voi Gate at Tsavo East and once they had my 60 USD [surely that’s getting too expensive now…] ,we drove through the Park, which appeared to be very dry. A mix of birds and animals followed. Both species of Oxpeckers on Buffalo, a large family of Elephants, good numbers of Impala and Grant’s Gazelles soon came and went. A few Starling species and a huge Verraux’s Eagle-Owl  kept me on my toes but generally, it was quiet. Larks became a nightmare. Eventually, I decided that everything was a Red-Winged Lark unless it was Pink Breasted. I look forward to hearing the songs... roll on the long-awaited Bird Sounds of East Africa CD.

A few birds on the pipeline road reminded me of home, with Wheatear, Green Sandpiper and 2 Wood Sandpipers making the most of a small pool of water. More exotic were a Three Banded Plover, 2 Kori Bustards and a family of Somali Ostrich.

We made our way to the Tarhi Tented Camp, where I watched a few Buffalo come to drink in the floodlit waterhole, before being shown the door by a herd of Elephants!

18 October

I looked out at the waterhole. There were several Doves and Superb Starlings but little else of note, other than a lone Buffalo. After breakfast, we made our way out. As we reached the reception area, a Red Chested Cuckoo flew into a tree above us and was quickly sorted out by many resident birds! We left, stopping almost immediately to look at a couple of Lesser Kudu, which seemed less wary than normal. Perhaps they were hungry and tired.

Jonathan drove us to the nearby Kandari Loop, where our first sighting was a male Lion, looking very cool! He wasn’t bothered by the circus that went on around him. That’s the downside of safaris really. Vans appear from nowhere. However, everyone got to see the main star and left. We stayed on as the area looked good for birds. I could see a small group of Sandgrouse flying around but they were very distant. A Hoopoe showed fairly well as did the first of many Rosy-Patched Bush-Shrikes. Even better was a Cisticola. However, I struggled with the ID but took a camcorder shot with the bird singing from the top of a bush. Subsequently posted on Bird Forum, I am reliably informed that it was an Ashy Cisticola so that’s a lifer after the event. A Fish Eagle sat patiently in a tree and a Tawny Eagle flew above it. Then a Bateleur joined in the fun. It’s a good place to stop and wait for birds to come to you. You can’t do that with most safari vehicles…

We moved on and quickly saw 2 Secretary Birds walking alongside the road. They weren’t bothered about us at all so we got excellent and prolonged views. We then stopped to watch a large group of White Crested Helmet Shrikes at close quarters, followed by a number of Long Tailed Shrikes. We also saw a Taita Fiscal as we made our way around the Park, heading towards the Aruba waterhole.

We were in for a shock! It was bone dry. Not one bird or animal. We had planned to spend some time there but it was pointless. Jonathan drove us to the Ashnil Aruba for a short break. Several Open Billed Storks sat in the trees as if they were waiting for something to happen at the waterhole. I suspect they might have had to change their plans.

Back in the Park, we drove around to one area where there was some water. 7 Warthogs were enjoying themselves in the mud as many Zebras looked on. There were large numbers of Chestnut Headed Sparrow-Larks around the area and a few Spur Winged Plovers. We had to be outside the Sala Gate by 2.45 pm so we headed off towards the Gate, stopping for at least four Southern Ground Hornbills, Black Headed Plover and Buff Crested Bustard. We also saw our only Giraffes along this stretch, together with three Gerenuks. As we got nearer the Gate, the road became more bumpy. It was fairly uncomfortable.

Once through the Gate, we stopped at the shop and I looked out over the river, where there were a number of Yellow Billed Storks, Herons and waders. Then we set off. This was the fourth time I had travelled along the track to Malindi. It was in a much worse condition than I have ever seen previously. The normal 2 hour journey was extended by 90 minutes! Clearly, the recent rains were mainly responsible but nevertheless, it’s not receiving a large amount of TLC. I hope someone improves it for the sake of other travellers. It’s a very bumpy ride and does neither passengers nor vehicle any good. The only good news about that journey back was that I added a lifer when Jonathan stopped for me to see a dozen or so Magpie Starlings. Other birds seen included another Buff Crested Bustard and a couple of Carmine Bee-eaters.

19 October

I stayed at Scorpio Villas in Malindi on 18 and 19 October. Nice, and once again, comfortable. Today was code-named “Operation Clarke’s Weaver”. Having missed them on all previous occasions., I decided it was time to click. Jonathan picked me up early and we made our way to the Arabuko Sokoke Forest. I had a few others on my wish-list too and I was soon watching two Fischer’s Turacos, which I had missed previously. We then went on patrol, looking for a late Spotted Ground Thrush, which had been seen recently. No luck but a nice pair of Forest Batis, two Eastern Nicators, two groups of Helmet Shrikes and a few glimpses of Golden Rumped Elephant Shrew all helped to keep us alert.

The unmistakable sound, and then sight, of European Bee-eaters flying over the forest was a great bonus. It’s my favourite bird by some distance. We had about 50 birds in total, in small groups of between 6 and a dozen. Obviously, it was a good day to migrate south.

We kept on searching, seeing several groups of Helmet Shrikes, both Retz and Chestnut Fronted, or a combination of the two - but no Weavers. There were many birds calling but we didn’t follow them. Greater Honeyguide, Scaly-Throated Honeyguide, Green Barbet, Red Capped Robin Chat and Olive Sunbird were all heard but I had seen them previously so didn’t chase them. One bird that did elude me was a Fischer’s Greenbul, which would have been a lifer had I seen it, as would the Eastern Green Tinkerbird that didn’t show either.

We stayed in the Forest for about three hours and saw a number of good birds but not the sought-after Weaver. A male Amani Sunbird showed very well by the Swamp, as did Collared Sunbird, more Bee-Eaters and a few hirundines. Eventually, it was time to give up so we made our way back to the HQ. I then went to Jonathan’s house for a while for lunch and generally chilled until it was time to return to the Forest. This time, we entered by the gate close to Mida Creek. Two hours of scanning every group of Helmet Shrikes produced… Helmet Shrikes! We did see three or four Sokoke Pipits as we did so but we came away with neither sight nor sound of Clarke’s Weaver. Perhaps next time….

20 October

My last full day. We decided to drive to Gongoni to see whether the Malindi Pipits were showing. Along the way, we stopped to look over the saltpans and adjoining flooded fields. There was a good number of birds, including vast numbers of Greater Flamingoes, both species of Whistling Duck, numerous waders, a couple of Malachite Kingfishers and a few small birds.

We parked and walked back along the edge of one of the saltpans for about half a mile. We had no luck until two Pipits were flushed by cattle that were walking down the track. They flew across the road so we made our way up the bank to see whether we could spot them. They spotted us first and flew back over our heads and away into the distance. That was as close as we got. Four Carmine Bee-eaters flew around, as did a number of Ethiopean Swallows. We made our way back to the van and set off for Sabaki.

Sabaki is always full of birds! It’s brilliant for waders and Terns. There must have been around 3,000 birds there. I saw nothing new but just enjoyed the spectacle of seeing so many birds together. A Marsh Harrier flew around to give them a few scary moments but generally, the birds were easy to see. A few Terek Sandpipers walked around and one Marsh Sandpiper, together with good numbers of Greater and Lesser Sandplovers, were nice to see. Curlew Sandpipers were present in very large numbers. It’s such a good place. It can be difficult to get very close to the birds but it’s well worth the effort.  Don’t go without a telescope. As we left, icing on the cake was provided by two European Bee-eaters, flying low.

We returned to the Hotel and I checked out. We stopped at Mida Creek, where the tide was out so views were distant. I counted at least 50 Crab Plovers though! We moved on to Roka Pools. The track was under water near the pools so we walked the last 200 metres. The first bird we saw was a Broad Billed Roller. There were a few nice birds in the vicinity. The pools themselves were quiet although there was a distant Water Thick Knee on the far side.

We made our way to Bamburi, where we were staying overnight.

21 October

We left Bamburi at 7am and arrived at the Airport an hour later. After a brief chat with Jonathan, I made my way through check-in and the flight left on time, taking about 9 Hours 45 minutes before we arrived in Manchester. Three more hours and I was back in Morpeth.

It was another excellent trip. The weather could have been kinder but I suppose that’s the chance you take. 200 species, plus many impressive animals, is pretty good in one week. Most people would go for a fortnight but my trip shows that you can get a good list together in just seven days.

I will be happy to answer any questions that you may have. Contact me at bob@rpbiggs.fsnet.co.uk