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A Report from birdtours.co.uk

Another late summer in Lithuania, September 4th-14th, 2006,

José María Fernández, Vitoria, Spain

When we (my wife Nerea and me) definitely decided to plan a visit to the Baltic States, I could see that few trip reports about this European region were available on the internet (see Perry and Grenabo’s at www.birdtours.co.uk/tripreports). Was that a sign of relatively fewer possibilities for birders? We first checked Nigel Wheatley’s Where to Watch Bird in Europe and Russia (Spanish edition) and found that the space paid to the country was smaller than, for instance, neighbouring Latvia and Estonia. Some other books, like Gorän Lundin’s Cranes: Where, When and Why? described no stopover site for cranes in Lithuania. So, we came to the previous conclusion that ornithological tourism and associated infrastructures were probably weaker. But some other references told us about a country with relevant wetlands, large bogs and mires covering about 5 % of its surface, and with some 3,200 inventoried lakes, as read in OMPO’s Wetlands in Africa and Europe. Besides, huge remnants of the temperate mixed forests that once covered Eastern Europe are still preserved, and, last but not least, the Baltic side is well renowned as key site for bird migration, including raptors, pigeons, passerines, waterfowl and others. The idea of combining such birding hints within an only manageable sized country (65,000 km2) became clearly exciting.

We were scheduled for a ten-day visit in early September, as constrained to summer holidays. So we tried to fix an itinerary from Vilnius, our arriving destination, to the Baltic extreme, visiting few but in-detailed places, if our time budget could afford. The selection of sites was greatly helped by the lists presented in www.birdinglithuania.lt, the web of Alcedo, a company that organizes birding tours, and by information posted in www.fatbirder.com on behalf of the Lithuanian Ornithological Society (www.birdlife.lt), whose web page, unfortunately, is not available in English. So, we would concentrate our efforts in Dzukija National Park, to the South and bordering Belarus, Nemunas Delta Regional Park, in the West, and the Curonian Spit (Kursiμ Nerija) National Park which comprises the Lithuanian section of the long and narrow sandy spit that separates the Curonian lagoon from the Baltic Sea.

We easily booked accommodation for a two-day stay in Vilnius, through www.hostelworld.com, in Ecotel, which turned to be a good idea because of very reasonable price (26 € per person/night in twin room), facilities (recently renewed, self-service breakfast, e-mail) and walking access to the city centre. It was considerably harder to book a rural farmstead in Dzukija area as we intended, mainly because some owners did not answer our e-mail requirements. Anyway, we deeply recommend visiting www.countryside.lt for a thorough review of farmsteads, where a typical, countryside atmosphere can be enjoyed, apart from the natural environment. Finally we arranged a beautiful wooden country house at remote Kapiniskiai, near Marcinkonys small town. We booked in advance with the owner (linaite@one.lt), who turned to be an employee of the National Park office, and provided useful information about places and even birding. Our last booking was at Nida, one of the villages at the Curonian spit. This area holds probably the main attraction for German tourism in Lithuania, and so, in our experience, it shouldn’t be difficult to find accommodation all year round. We did it at villa Misko Namas (www.miskonamas.com).

As we changed enough money into local currency (1 €=3,45 litas) at arrival, we seldom used our Mastercard, but we felt that either in Vilnius and the Curonian spit there was no problem with that; probably not the same in small towns or rural areas. To move around we hired a car at Litinterp Company (www.litinterp.com), which apparently offered best prices.

Accomodation prices seemed to be very interesting for a westerner, except at the touristic Curonian spit. But meals made the real difference, because they could be considered really cheap. Local recipes include a lot of potatoes, but we agree that mushrooms should be regarded as national food product, because lots and lots of people, young or old, men or women, were at that time devoted to picking in the woods, even for commercial purposes.

The people we came into along our journey were always friendly. We must say that, even in the case of communication trouble –English speakers are not frequent yet, especially among older people- they tried to help beyond any other consideration. We did find some problem with telephone booths, because no one all over the country admitted cash, and besides we couldn’t buy a proper card at supermarkets or petrol stations. Roads were in perfect condition, and the highway system has surely improved since Wheatley’s comments in his book. Unfortunately, weather was not as fine as expected, and this was a clear drawback for comfort birding. We were told later that rain is not unusual at this time of year.

Our flight was a pleasant Bilbao-Frankfurt-Vilnius with Lufthansa. Once there, we visited some bookshops for ornithological and wildlife review, and found the invaluable Important Bird Areas of the EU Importance in Lithuania, which helped a lot because, apart from complete descriptions of sites and bird populations, has a useful and detailed map of each IBA. Texts included in this book are also available at http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/sites/index.html. We also bought the very recent Lithuanian Breeding Bird Atlas, by Petras Kurlavicius, but this was more a reference for species range and probability of occurrence in the country. Searching the Internet, we only found detailed ornithological information about the Kursiu Nerija National Park (http://nerija.lt/en/gamta/pauksciai.php), because webs about other National Park, like Dzukija, only has Lithuanian version.

Trip log

Vilnius city

As we visited the main city attractions (Gediminas castle and its great scenery, dozens of churches in the old town) we paid attention to urban wildlife, somewhat enriched by the Neris river and small parks and orchards. The most remarkable for us were flocks of Tree Sparrows, the last Swifts before migration, Barn Swallows and House Martins even entering nests at Townhall square. But to take advantage of the stay in Vilnius, it’s clearly advisable going to Vinga Park, the biggest and wood-like in the city. Here you have an interesting account of forest birds, just some minutes walk from the hotel. These include woodland specialists like Black and Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Common Crossbill, Treecreeper, Coal Tit and Nuthatch. Vinga Park is a good introduction to Lithuanian mixed deciduous forests, though obviously observation is not as relaxed as in a solitary track. For Spaniards, this kind of huge parks with well developed canopy, shrub patches and natural resemblance is a welcome surprise.

Dzukija NP around Marcinkonys

I would say that the many nest boxes that Lithuanians hang from pylons and trees is not only a sample of wooden handycraft, but also a symbol of their passion for birds. White Stork is the national bird, and their big nests over roofs are common features throughout the countryside. The combination of a flat landscape, agriculture and wetlands or fish ponds favours this species. Unfortunately, the big fish-farm we intended to visit at Dzukija, called Grybaulia, was no more flooded because, apparently, the commercial fisheries ceased last year. So, in spite of several routes still announced for birding and recent proposals to extend the Ramsar status (http://www.ramsar.org/mtg/mtg_belarus_transboundary.htm), the interest of the site (White-tailed Eagle, Citrine Wagtail) seems to have currently vanished. Red-backed Shrikes and Whinchats take over growing pastures and bushes, and only Goldeneyes, Mallards and Mute Swans could be spotted in adjacent lakes.

But the boreal pine forests in Dzukija, occupying some 40,000 ha of the NP, are worth exploring for birds: about 200 species have been recorded, as informed at Park Offices in Marcinkonys. Capercaillie and Black Grouse may be, at this time of year, the main attractions, though we were not successful with them. We chose Karaviskes forest (350 ha) -about 15 km from Marcinkonys through a bumpy road- for an afternoon walk. Highlights included Black, Great Spotted and Lesser Spotted woodpeckers, whose feeding signals and nests were easily recognised, besides Treecreeper, Nuthatch, Goldcrest and Raven.

Apart from that, we could enjoy the traditional farmland landscape surrounding our base at Kapiniskiai. This is a delicious area supporting grassland, pastures, small swamps and rivers stretches, orchards with old apple trees and oak stands. We spotted perching Great Grey Shrike, Nutcraker, Wryneck, Sparrowhawk, Spotted Flycatcher, Woodpigeon, Jay and various finches and buntings.

Cepkeliμ Nature Reserve

This marsh complex is the largest in Lithuania (more than 10,000 ha), including raised bogs, flooded forest and mature pine stands growing on inland dunes. You get to the main visitors entrance few km from Marcinkonys. The Reserve has an observation tower and some available paths, but rubber boots are recommended if you are to walk through wet patches. Anyway, it’s really an exciting adventure to take a look at this vast wild area. Mature forest specialists are Black, White-backed and Lesser Spotted woodpeckers, but highlights were also Hazel Grouse, Willow Tit, Marsh Tit and Lesser Whitethroat. General biodiversity was impressive, as shown by, for instance, spiders and moss covering sandy dunes.

Zuvintas Biosphere Reserve

We had not planned to visit Zuvintas, but this site lies just on the way we chose to move from Dzukija to Nemunas delta, and we couldn’t avoid a brief stop. This allowed us to pay birding attention at Lithuanian farmland, which extends throughout much of the richer soils of the country, although basic attraction of Zuvintas is the large raised bogs and shallow lakes. Common Crane and numerous Lapwing flocks on stubble fields, and Marsh Harrier, Grey Heron, lots of Reed Bunting and Cormorant around reed beds and meadows. It’s easy to drive using dirty roads joining Aleknonys, Zuvintai, Simnas and small farms scattered. Just by the Biosphere Reserve you have Bukta forest, remarkable mixed broad-leaved woodland with enormous trees. Some patches are open for nature walking, and some others reserved, though timber cutting and regeneration stands are visible. Entrance is in the main road from Simnas to Marijampole.

Marijampole city

We arrived at Marijampole in the evening, and became astonished by hundreds, probably thousands of Rooks and Jackdaws attending a big roost in the main avenue. The vision was so spectacular, dozens of birds arguing to get best accommodation on each available tree branch. Next morning, at dawn, the birds left in a much more organised fashion.

Nemunas Delta Regional Park

Undoubtedly, the most outstanding bird area in our journey, and probably in the entire Lithuania. Nearly 30,000 ha of wetlands, fish ponds, water bodies, reed beds, meadows, fens and polders, with habitats for over 300 species recorded, 170 of them breeders. But again we were out of season for some, like Corncrake and Aquatic Warbler, having here their main Lithuanian strongholds. We hadn’t arranged accommodation in advance, but found it in comfortable Siluté Deims hotel. But there are plenty other typical options and rural farmsteads in the small towns in and around the delta (Juknaiciai, Kintiai…). 

To explore the Southern hemidelta, we designed an extensive car route: Rusne-Pakalné (information centre)-Uostadvaris (biggest shallow lake)-Svyturys-Curonian coastline. So, we could make a complete search through polders and flooded meadows, which turned to be the most profitable areas. Bird account included raptors (Lesser Spotted Eagle, Common Buzzard), gulls (Black-headed, Common, Herring and Lesser Black-backed of Baltic subspecies), herons (Grey, Great Egret), waders (Lapwing, Oystercatcher, Ruff, Golden Plover), hundreds of Greylag Geese, Common Crane families and many migrating passerines like Wheaters.

One of the main attractions in Northern hemidelta is Krokulanka lake and surrounding wet meadows, with hundreds of Greylag Geese, Coot, Gadwall, Great Crested Grebe, Mute Swan, Cormorant, Marsh Harrier, Great Egret, Snipe, Common Tern and one migrating female Merlin trying to catch unaware Meadow Pipits. Kintiai fish ponds are the favourite place for fishing White-tailed Eagles, besides dozens of Cormorants, Grey Herons and White Egrets, Herring and Black-headed gulls, and White Storks also. Additions to the trip list were Peregrine Falcon, Sparrowhawk, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Black-tailed Godwit, Little Tern and several ducks (Wigeon, Pochard, Shoveler). A vantage observation point lies on the bridge over Minija river.

Everyone should pay a visit to Ventés Ragas Ornithological Station, at the end of the road from Kintiai. Views of the Curonian shore from the top of either the lighthouse or the Station (on renovation at that time) are magnificent, but if it’s a good day for migrants you can enjoy with the trapping and ringing. And if there are species missing or problems with identification, the bird museum can help (although the ringer in charge does not speak English and you run the risk of sharing the visit with an excursion of retired people!).

Finally, a morning at Zalgirai mixed broadleaved forest near Rusné, revealed a complete community of forest birds, with Black and Lesser-spotted Woodpecker, Raven, Chiffchaff and Willow Warbler, Long-tailed Tit, Common Rosefinch, Tree Pipit, Garden Warbler or Redstart. Surrounding farmland rendered Skylark, Great Grey and Red-backed Shrikes, Wheater, Yellowhammer and Reed Bunting.

Kursiμ Nerija National Park

Apart from the very amazing natural landscape (bare dunes and sandy habitats), this narrow spit forms a deviation coastline, flown over by thousands of migrants, ringed at Nagliai and Rybaci (in neighbouring Russian Kaliningrad district, few km from the border) ringing stations. They can be easily spotted at some high points with good visibility over the vast pinewood, like some towers along the beach (one at Preila) or even at the top of the dunes. At that time of year, big flocks of Chaffinch, Meadow Pipit and Barn Swallow were passing away, accompanied by dozens of Marsh Harriers, Sparrowhawks and Common Buzzards. A visit to the Baltic shore rendered Black-throated Loon, Common Scoter, Puffin, Great Black-backed Gull and White-tailed Eagle. It’s also very advisable to visit the great Juodkranté heronry. A Grey Heron colony apparently settled there (“Garniai” or Heron hill) in the 19th century, and at present about 500 Heron and 2,000 Cormorant pairs occupy this place. There’s a brief walk from the road to the observatory. In September the colony was empty, but the number of dead trees attracts some hollow specialists, so Stock Dove, Marsh Tit, Black and Lesser Spotted Woodpeckers are readily detected in the vicinity.

Key to Table

1 Vilnius city
2 Dzujija (Grybaulia, Karaviskes and Kapiniskiai)
3 Cepkeliμ
4 Zuvintas
5 Southern Nemunas hemidelta
6 Northern Nemunas hemidelta
7 Zalgirai
8 Curonian spit
9 Palanga Botanical Garden

   

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

Black-throated Loon

Gavia arctica

             

X

 

Great Crested Grebe

Podiceps cristatus

         

X

 

X

 

Cormorant

Phalacrocorax carbo

     

X

X

X

X

X

 

Great Egret

Casmerodius albus

       

X

X

     

Grey Heron

Ardea cinerea

   

X

X

X

X

X

X

 

White Stork

Ciconia ciconia

         

X

     

Mute Swan

Cygnus olor

 

X

     

X

     

Greylag Goose

Anser anser

       

X

X

     

Mallard

Anas platyrhynchos

 

X

   

X

X

 

X

X

Gadwall

Anas strepera

         

X

     

Wigeon

Anas penelope

         

X

 

X

 

Shoveler

Anas clypeata

         

X

     

Pochard

Aythya ferina

         

X

     

Tufted Duck

Aythya fuligula

         

X

     

Common Scoter

Melanitta nigra

             

X

 

Goldeneye

Bucephala clangula

 

X

             

White-tailed Eagle

Haliateus albicilla

         

X

 

X

 

Lesser Spotted Eagle

Aquila pomarina

       

X

       

Marsh Harrier

Circus aeruginosus

     

X

 

X

 

X

 

Common Buzzard

Buteo buteo

 

X

 

X

X

X

X

X

 

Sparrowhawk

Accipiter nisus

 

X

     

X

 

X

X

Kestrel

Falco tinnunculus

 

X

     

X

 

X

 

Peregrine Falcon

Falco peregrinus

         

X

     

Merlin

Falco columbarius

         

X

     

Hazel Grouse

Bonasa bonasia

   

X

           

Grey Partridge

Perdix perdix

       

X

X

     

Coot

Fulica atra

 

X

     

X

     

Common Crane

Grus grus

     

X

X

X

     

Oystercatcher

Haematopus ostralegus

       

X

       

Ringed Plover

Charadrius hiaticula

         

X

     

Golden Plover

Pluvialis apricaria

       

X

       

Lapwing

Vanellus vanellus

     

X

X

X

X

   

Dunlin

Calidris alpina

         

X

 

X

 

Black-tailed Godwit

Limosa limosa

         

X

     

Snipe

Gallinago gallinago

         

X

     

Ruff

Philomachus pugnax

       

X

X

     

Black-headed Gull

Larus ridibundus

X

   

X

X

X

 

X

 

Common Gull

Larus canus

       

X

   

X

 

Herring Gull

Larus argentatus

       

X

X

 

X

X

Lesser Black-backed Gull

Larus fuscus

       

X

X

 

X

 

Great Black-backed Gull

Larus marinus

             

X

 

Little Tern

Sterna albifrons

         

X

     

Common Tern

Sterna hirundo

         

X

     

Puffin

Fratercula arctica

             

X

 

Woodpigeon

Columba palumbus

 

X

 

X

X

     

X

Stock Dove

Columba oenas

             

X

 

Feral Pigeon

Columba livia

X

     

X

X

     

Collared Dove

Streptopelia decaocto

     

X

X

       

Wryneck

Jynx torquilla

 

X

X

           

Tawny Owl

Strix aluco

             

X

 

Common Swift

Apus apus

X

               

Black Woodpecker

Dryocopus martius

X

X

X

     

X

X

X

Great Spotted Woodpecker

Dendrocopos major

X

X

X

   

X

 

X

X

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker

Dendrocopos minor

 

X

X

     

X

X

X

White-backed Woodpecker

Dendrocopos leucotos

   

X

           

Skylark

Alauda arvensis

           

X

   

Sand Martin

Riparia riparia

   

X

 

X

       

Barn Swallow

Hirundo rustica

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

X

 

House Martin

Delichon urbicum

X

               

Tree Pipit

Anthus trivialis

           

X

   

Meadow Pipit

Anthus pratensis

 

X

   

X

X

X

X

 

White Wagtail

Motacilla alba

X

X

 

X

X

X

     

Yellow Wagtail

Motacilla flava

           

X

X

 

Grey Wagtail

Motacilla cinerea

X

         

X

X

 

Wren

Troglodytes troglodytes

   

X

         

X

Robin

Erithacus rubecula

X

X

X

   

X

X

X

X

Redstart

Phoenicurus phoenicurus

     

X

   

X

   

Black Redstart

Phoenicurus ochruros

X

X

         

X

 

Wheater

Oenanthe oenanthe

       

X

X

X

X

 

Stonechat

Saxicola rubetra

 

X

     

X

     

Song Thrush

Turdus philomelos

 

X

             

Mistle Thrush

Turdus viscivorus

 

X

X

           

Redwing

Turdus iliacus

   

X

           

Fieldfare

Turdus pilaris

 

X

             

Blackbird

Turdus merula

 

X

     

X

X

X

X

Lesser Whitethroat

Sylvia curruca

   

X

           

Garden Warbler

Sylvia borin

           

X

   

Willow Warbler

Phylloscopus trochilus

X

         

X

X

X

Chiffchaff

Phylloscopus collybita

X

X

X

   

X

X

X

 

Goldcrest

Regulus regulus

X

X

X

         

X

Spotted Flycatcher

Muscicapa striata

 

X

       

X

   

Great Tit

Parus major

X

X

X

   

X

X

 

X

Coal Tit

Parus ater

X

 

X

         

X

Crested Tit

Parus cristatus

X

 

X

         

X

Marsh Tit

Parus palustris

   

X

       

X

 

Willow Tit

Parus montanus

   

X

       

X

 

Blue Tit

Parus caeruleus

X

X

     

X

X

X

X

Lon-tailed Tit

Aegithalos caudatus

           

X

   

Nuthatch

Sitta europaea

X

X

           

X

Treecreeper

Certhia familiaris

X

X

             

Red-backed Shrike

Lanius collurio

 

X

       

X

   

Great Grey Shrike

Lanius excubitor

 

X

 

X

   

X

   

Magpie

Pica pica

X

X

 

X

 

X

 

X

 

Jay

Garrulus glandarius

X

X

X

     

X

X

 

Jackdaw

Corvus monedula

X

               

Rook

Corvus frugilegus

X

               

Hooded Crow

Corvus cornix

X

     

X

X

 

X

 

Raven

Corvus corax

X

X

X

 

X

X

X

X

X

Nutcracker

Nucifraga caryocatactes

 

X

             

Common Starling

Sturnus vulgaris

     

X

X

X

 

X

 

House Sparrow

Passer domesticus

X

       

X

     

Tree Sparrow

Passer montanus

X

               

Chaffinch

Fringilla coelebs

X

X

X

 

X

X

X

X

X

Linnet

Carduelis cannabina

     

X

         

Goldfinch

Carduelis carduelis

X

X

     

X

     

Greenfinch

Carduelis chloris

X

X

 

X

   

X

   

Hawfinch

Coccothraustes coccothraustes

 

X

             

Common Crossbill

Loxia curvirostra

X

               

Common Rosefinch

Carpodacus erythrinus

           

X

   

Reed Bunting

Emberiza schoeniclus

 

X

 

X

 

X

X

   

Yellowhammer

Emberiza citrinella

 

X

       

X

X

 

Cirl Bunting

Emberiza cirlus

           

X

   

NUMBER OF SPECIES

112

32

41

24

18

29

54

33

44

19

 

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