Visit your favourite destinations
|
Visit your favourite destinations |
| A Report from birdtours.co.uk |
Madagascar - 26th November to 15th December 1995,
CONTENTS
- General Information
- References
- Itinerary (summary)
- The Sites:
* Lake Alarobia (Antananarivo)
* Ampijora Forest Station (Ankarafantsika Reserve)
* Marshes 17 km north of Ampijora
* Périnet (Analamazaotra Special Reserve)
* Marshy Area at km 127.2 near Périnet
* Ranomafana National Park
* Vohiparara
* Lake 9 km west of Vohiparara
* Tulear area:
* Tulear Airport Pool Area
* Mora Mora Hotel Area
* La Mangrove Hotel Area
* Nosy Ve Island & Anakoa
* Berenty Reserve
* Zombitsy Forest
* Relais de la Reine (Isalo National Park)
* Sites not visited
- Systematic List of Birds
- Mammals
This report covers my trip to Madagascar from 26th November to 15th December 1995. Our three weeks trip encompassed many of the well‑known sites in the eastern rainforest, the western deciduous woodland and the southern spiny desert of Madagascar. As ever I was accompanied by my Belgian friends Vital van Gorp and Eric Wille.
Some 1600 km long and mostly about a quarter as wide and because Australia is ranked as a continent, Madagascar - or the Malagasy Republic - is the world's fourth largest island after Greenland, New Guinea and Borneo.
Madagascar has been separate from Africa so many millions of years and has fostered the preservation and evolution of such a multitude of unique life forms that it is considered one of the major zoogeographic regions of the Earth.
The heaviest bird that ever existed, the Elephant Bird (Aepyornis maximus), lived in Madagascar and may actually have survived until 300 years ago. Pieces of egg shells of this bird are still found at Faux Cap.
Unfortunately, few other places in the world are as threatened as the native environments of Madagascar and nearby islands. As intense human settlement and population increase have led to the destruction of large areas of the native habitats (80% of the rainforest has already been destroyed), a sense of urgency exists to visit Madagascar. Otherwise, the Delalande's Coua (Snail‑eating Coua) is the only bird now regarded as having become extinct in Madagascar since 1600, and even that possibly still survives somewhere. Last supposedly identified in 1930 - and, before that, not for nearly a century - it was (or is) a secretive forest bird; only a few specimens are known.
It is often difficult to be certain, except on small islands, that such species are extinct: the rediscovery after nearly 60 years, also since 1930, of the Madagascar Serpent‑Eagle illustrates this well.
Fortunately the island has been the focus over the last decade of a concentrated conservation effort by international organizations in concert with the Malagasy government, and the outlook for preservation of areas representative of all Madagascar's habitats is promising.
Madagascar is an island-continent with a very high degree of endemism. The bird‑list of Madagascar includes five families found only here in the world: the three rail‑like Mesites, the monotypic Cuckoo‑Roller, the five widely differing Ground‑Rollers that nest in burrows, the four Asities or 'false Sunbirds' and the 14 species of Vangas. In addition to these five unique families, there is an endemic sub‑family, the Couas, a group of nine species of large long‑tailed, partly terrestrial relatives of the Cuckoos.
Of the 198 nesting birds, 106 are endemic and another 25 are limited to the "Malagasy Region" (Madagascar, Mascarenes, Comoros and the Seychelles).
Madagascar has a good number of National Parks where you can see most of the species. But you have to search there! Rainforest birdwatching requires much time and patience due to weather and visibility problems. Most birds are rather shy and some ground-species can only be seen by walking VERY silently along the trails. Even so, long periods of time may pass before a mixed-species feeding flock appears or some shy and skulking individual is detected.
Madagascar is a 'must' for most of the keenest birders. In addition, all the land mammals are unique to the island, including 20 species of Lemurs.
FLIGHT AND VISA
Before we travelled to Madagascar we visited the Mascarene Islands Mauritius and Réunion. From Réunion we travelled to Madagascar.
Our return-ticket (Air France) for the air journey cost us about ¦ 1900,--. The flights were punctual and troublefree. It would have been cheaper to have taken a flight with Aeroflot via Moscow, but I don't recommend it, because lengthy transit times are the norm.
You do need a visa for Madagascar. The tourist visa to Madagascar (30 days) at the consulate in Rotterdam cost ¦ 90,-- and four photos are required. When you're leaving Madagascar, you are required to pay a departure tax of 100 French Francs. The airtax for each domestic flight (Air Madagascar) was 8000 Malagasy Francs.
Be sure to confirm your reservations for your return
flight at least 72 hours before the flight.
MONEY
The currency in Madagascar is the Malagasy Franc. When we were there the exchange rate fluctuated between 2500 - 2600 Malagasy Francs to the guilder. We took traveller's cheques in French Francs, which are readily changeable, as are Dutch Guilders, Belgian Francs etc. Creditcard holders can get cash advances at some Malagasy Commercial Banks. The main problem with the currency in Madagascar is that you end up with a hugh wad of money as the notes do not come in large denomination notes. Also the shops in small villages sometimes cannot accept large denomination notes, as they do not have enough change.
Ivato Airport in Tana is the easiest option for changing money, the banks inevitably are much slower.
Most of the larger hotels are also able to change currency for you. On arrival at Madagascar, a currency declaration form must be completed, stating the amount of currency you have. Money changers must enter details of transactions and stamp the form. On departure from the country remaining cash and traveller's cheques must correspond to the declaration, otherwise you have to bribe the Customs officer (not difficult).
Only 25000 Malagasy Francs may be taken abroad.
ACCOMMODATION
All sites have convenient hotel facilities fairly close by, with the exception of Ampijora Forest Station.
Some of the hotels are very basic, but adequate for most birders. The prices are low, generally under 40000 Malagasy Francs per person per night. Good hotels in Antananarivo are much higher in price.
Some prices for a double room:
Hotel Colbert, Antananarivo
660 French Francs (very plush)
Hotel Radama, Antananarivo 440
French Francs (very plush)
New Hotel, Majunga
112000 Malagasy Francs
Hotel Les Roches Rouges, Majunga 80000 Malagasy
Francs
Hotel Feon' Ny Ala, Périnet 70000
Malagasy Francs
Mora Mora Hotel near Tulear 70000
Malagasy Francs (3 persons)
Station Thermale de Ranomafana, Ranomafana 30000 Malagasy
Francs
Relais de la Reine, Isalo N.P.
300000 Malagasy Francs (3 persons, very luxurious)
FOOD AND DRINK
Generally quite good and inexpensive, with many different meals available and the food is generally very reasonable in both taste and quantity. The food has strong French and oriental influences.
Stay away from uncooked fruits and vegetables that you haven't peeled yourself, and don't use ice. It is best to avoid drinking the water unless you know it is boiled. Drink bottled drinks, water or a "THB" (Three Horses beer).
HEALTH AND SAFETY
The people in Madagascar are in general both friendly and helpful, making for a pleasant and relatively hassle‑free trip. Madagascar appeared to be quite a safe place to travel in and with caution you should not anticipate any problems.
Antananarivo is certainly not safe to walk around at night, for locals as well as tourists. Get a taxi if you need to get anywhere in the capital after dark.
Vaccinations, consult your own doctor for up to date advice. Be sure to get enough malaria tablets for your trip, and do take them! Nowadays with the Lariam Roche tablets you have to take only one tablet a week.
Hepatitis A, a 10-year injection (three jabs at interval) is now available, doing away with the need to visit the doctor immediately before travel.
Mosquitoes and flies are sometimes a problem. Insect repellent is necessary at these locations. Mosquitoes were not much of a problem in the field, but they are present in most of the hotels at night. Most of the hotels provided nets, but we took our own and used them sometimes.
Sand flies can be a problem in coastal areas.
Terrestrial leeches, one of Madagascar's many interesting Asian affinities, can be a real pest, and you can pick them up not just in the forest but also in damp grass, often when you least expect it. Although there is no complete answer to the problem, as precaution wear long trousers tucked securely into your socks and spray insect repellent liberally on your clothing and boots! If they do get on to you, you can simply flick or pull them off. They don't leave their head in you or cause infections. At Ranomafana National Park the leeches, especially on rainy days, are numerous.
The inevitable stomach problems affected all three of us. The last week we were sometimes to sick to make a long stroll in the forest.
Always carry a small but well stocked first-aid kit. Cuts can become infected very quickly in tropical conditions -never regard an abrasion as too minor to worry about.
LANGUAGE
After Malagasy, French is the second language and is widely spoken. Most people in Madagascar speak little or no English, particularly away from the big cities (Antananarivo), so the ability to speak some basic French is essential.
WEATHER
To coincide with the austral spring and hence the maximum period of vocalisation September - November is the best time to visit, also this is prior to the onset of the rainy season and the heat is not too oppressive.
Most of the well-known bird tour companies visit Madagascar at this time. Having said all that, nearly all the endemics were still singing in December and we had hardly any rainfall during our visit.
The heat was very daunting, most notably in the south. During the time we spent in Madagascar it was mostly sunny and hot (temperatures around 33o). In the tropics it is wise to wear a hat.
TRANSPORT AND ROADS
Most of the roads are in poor condition, especially during the rains (November-March) making overland travel time consuming and, at times, impossible. Cheap long‑distance taxis are available in some areas (eg. Antananarivo to Ampijora and Périnet), and the internal air network is also cheap.
In Madagascar, it's best to hire a car if you can afford it. For car rental, you will need a major credit card, a passport and a valid driver's license. The first five days (300 French Francs per day) we hired a two wheel drive car (Peugeot 205 GL) with driver, which was OK, but we did get two punctures. The last two weeks we hired a four wheel drive Mitsubishi with driver from Aventour (Mrs. Michèle R. Hafaliana).
We payed 800 French Francs a day (included unlimited mileage). We payed for gas about 1600 Malagasy Francs per litre. The drivers were Lala and Celestin and both were very good and reliable and can be recommended.
EQUIPMENT
To see Madagascar's numerous skulkers tapes are essential. We got recordings of some of the real skulkers, before we left. With the help of the tape recorder we played the songs of a lot of birds. Some of the bird guides have recordings of many of the species i.e. Maurice at Périnet and Fidi at Ranomafana.
A good torch is a must. A telescope is useful at coastal sites and lakes and very useful for viewing canopy species especially from roadsides.
Photography is VERY difficult, as birds are difficult to approach and light conditions are bad in the forest. Good opportunities to photograph arise in the dryer South and West. The lemurs were very confiding and could be easily photographed due to their habituated nature.
PERMITS
Permits are required for all national parks and reserves and can be purchased at the entrance of the park. Permits cost 20000 Malagasy Francs and are valid for three days. For the private reserve of Berenty, a permit has to be obtained in Fort Dauphin (Talanaro) from either the Le Galion or Le Dauphin Hotels.
GUIDES
All the reserves have local guides, but they do vary tremendously in their knowledge. Mostly they are hired by tourists for finding lemurs etc., but some do have a knowledge of the birds and can find even the hardest of the avian skulkers.
The following list of guides may prove useful:
Ampijora Forest Station: Jackie lives on site and has a good knowledge of the local endemics, as does the chief forester and Romaine also a forester.
Mora Mora Hotel area: Masindraka and his two sons (Mosa & his brother) can find all the endemics in the spiny forest. In three hours we had all the endemics!
Ranomafana N.P.: Jean Emilian Rifidison or "Fidi" is a very good guide and can show you most of the good birds at Ranomafana and Vohiparara.
Périnet: Maurice and his brother Patrice are very good and can show you all the birds here. Their brother Luke is not so good.
The guides at Ranomafana and Périnet have recordings of many of the species.
The guides will make contact with you on arrival, but seek out the above to ensure that your money is well spent. Payment for guides services should be agreed beforehand, otherwise it will lead to arguments. Most guides seem to charge 25000 - 50000 Malagasy Francs a day for their services. Try to avoid being at a site when the bird tours are there, because these companies hire all the best guides and you will find yourself without a guide there.
CLASSIFICATION
Taxonomy and sequence follow James F. Clements Birds of the World, A Check List (July 1991).
Species in parentheses are the English names in "Guide to the Birds of Madagascar" by Olivier Langrand, but only mentioned when these differ significantly from the Clements Check List.
MAPS AND SKETCH MAPS
The best road maps can be obtained in advance in Europe. Maps are also easily obtainable in the main bookshops in Antananarivo, for about a third of the cost.
I have only made sketch maps of places we visited and which are NOT sketched in Jem Babbington's report.
Nearly all sketch maps in this trip report are orientated so that north is at the top. Although I have tried to make all the maps as accurate as possible, please allow for the vagaries of memory. The sketch maps are NOT to scale!
BIRDSPECIES
Despite its size and subtropical location, Madagascar supports surprisingly few species. Only 256 have been recorded. The following list of birds we saw frequently and if you spend any sort of time in the right habitats you will too:
Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Black Kite, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Madagascar Turtle-Dove, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Common Myna, Mascarene Martin, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar (Bush) Lark, Madagascar Wagtail, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
Aventour
55 Route de Majunga, Antanimena
101 Antananarivo
Madagascar
Telephone: 31761
Fax: 27299
Claude Ranarivelo & Fils (permit to visit Lake Alarobia)
Madoptioue
40, Avenue de L'Indépendance
Antananarivo BP 4248
Madagascar
Telephone: 204-54/331-85
Fax: 251-17
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This trip would not have been so successful without Jem Babbington's report.
Mark van Beirs provided useful advice. I also want to thank Jon Hornbuckle who gave us useful advice and many bird locations during the hour that we met at Ivato Airport. Thanks are also due to Eric who organised most of the pre‑trip details and Vital van Gorp, who as always was a very good birding companion.
It was the 25th time that Vital and I made a large birding
trip abroad.
BOOKS
- James F. Clements. Birds of the World. A Check List.
- Oliver Langrand. Guide to the Birds of Madagascar.
- T. Haltnorth, H. Diller. A Field Guide to the Mammals of Africa including Madagascar.
I brought one field guide, Oliver Langrand's "Guide to the Birds of Madagascar". This is the only available field guide, essential, but weak on Jery's & Greenbuls and most of the plates are too dull.
Many of the distribution maps are not accurate, and some of the text is very limited.
REPORTS
- Jem Babbington. A Report on the Birds of Madagascar, a visit between November 10th -December 10th 1994.
- Nick Gardner. A Birder's Guide to travel in Madagascar.
- Kerry K. Harrison. Madagascar: 14 December 1993 - 7 January 1994.
Many reports have been written about Madagascar. I found the detailed notes by Jem Babbington most useful, with additional information from the report by Nick Gardner. Nick Gardner's report is now a little out of date and some of the maps are not too accurate, although Kerry Harrison has done improved versions of these.
SUMMARY
November 26 Réunion * Antananarivo (Tana)
November 27 Antananarivo * Mahajanga (Majunga)
November 28 Majunga * Ampijora Forest Station * Majunga
November 29 Majunga * Ampijora Forest Station * Majunga
November 30 Majunga * Ampijora Forest Station * Antananarivo
December 1 Antananarivo * Périnet
December 2 Périnet
December 3 Périnet * Antananarivo * Talanaro (Fort Dauphin)
December 4 Fort Dauphin * Berenty
December 5 Berenty * Fort Dauphin * Toliara (Tulear)
December 6 Nosy Ve * Anakoa
December 7 Mora Mora Hotel area
December 8 Mora Mora Hotel area * Tulear * Zombitsy Forest * Relais
de la Reine (Isalo National Park)
December 9 Relais de la Reine * Fianarantsoa * Vohiparara * Ranomafana
December 10 Vohiparara
December 11 Ranomafana National Park
December 12 Ranomafana National Park * Antananarivo
December 13 Antananarivo * Périnet
December 14 Périnet * Antananarivo
December 15 Antananarivo (Lake Alarobia) * Nairobi
December 16 Nairobi * Paris * Brussels
LAKE ALAROBIA * ANTANANARIVO
Lake Alarobia is a privately owned garden with a small lake, within the city limits of Antananarivo.
Accommodation: a hotel in Antananarivo.
Lake Alarobia in Antananarivo, may be your first introduction to some of the commoner Malagasy birds. Madagascar Pond‑Heron breeds in small numbers amongst the large mixed heron colony and Meller's Duck which occurs on the lake itself, but is not guaranteed.
It is a good place to stay, when you have a free afternoon after arriving etc.
The easiest way to reach the lake is to get a taxi. Don't forget to haggle and get the price down by a third at least. A permit is required for visiting this lake and can be bought at the office of Claude Ranarivelo & Fils Madoptioue 40, Avenue de L'Indépendance, Antananarivo BP 4248. We had to pay 50000 Malagasy Francs per person!!
Birdspecies:
Fulvous & White‑faced Whistling‑Duck, Comb (Knob‑billed) Duck, MELLER'S DUCK, Red‑billed Teal, Hottentot Teal, Black Heron, Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret), Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Squacco Heron, MADAGASCAR POND‑HERON, Black‑crowned Night‑Heron, African Spoonbill, Glossy Ibis, MADAGASCAR CUCKOO‑FALCON (rare), Réunion HARRIER, Cuvier's (White‑throated) Rail, Common Moorhen, Red‑knobbed Coot, Common Sandpiper, Madagascar Coucal, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Swamp‑Warbler, (Madagascar) Red Fody.
AMPIJORA FOREST STATION
This is an area of tall, deciduous forest 462 km north of Antananarivo (Tana) and 106 km south of Mahajanga (Majunga). Ampijora lies next to Ankarafantsika SNR, where the species found are similar.
Accommodation: accommodation is limited at this site, but there is a possibility that you may be able to stay in the researchers accommodation at the station. There is an official campsite at the forest station, but facilities are very limited. Another option is a hotel in Majunga (New Hotel or Hotel Les Roches Rouges).
This reserve has a very good network of footpaths. 103 species of birds have been recorded here, among which the most localized are Madagascar Fish‑Eagle, Coquerel's Coua, Schlegel's Asity (here at the edge of its range), Rufous and Van Dam's Vanga (the last described as being in imminent danger of extinction). This is also one of only four known sites for the highly localized White‑breasted Mesite.
A permit is required for visiting this reserve, but this is available at the entrance, from the chief forester, for the sum of 20000 Malagasy Francs per person.
Birdspecies:
African Darter, MADAGASCAR LITTLE GREBE, Little Bittern, Purple Heron, Black Heron, Grey Heron, Malagasy Pond-Heron, Black‑crowned Night‑Heron, Striated (Green‑backed) Heron, African Open‑billed Stork, WHITE‑WINGED (MADAGASCAR CRESTED) IBIS, Black Kite, MADAGASCAR FISH‑EAGLE, Madagascar Harrier‑Hawk, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), MADAGASCAR SPARROWHAWK, Madagascar Buzzard, Sooty Falcon, Cuvier's (White‑throated) Rail, WHITE‑BREASTED MESITE, MADAGASCAR JACANA, Common Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Black‑winged Stilt, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Madagascar Green‑Pigeon, (Greater) Vasa Parrot, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Grey‑headed Lovebird, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, COQUEREL'S COUA, Red‑capped Coua, Crested Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Malagasy Scops‑Owl, Madagascar Nightjar, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Broad‑billed Roller, Cuckoo‑Roller, SCHLEGEL'S ASITY, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Rufous Vanga, Hook‑billed Vanga, VAN DAM'S VANGA, Sickle‑billed Vanga, White‑headed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Blue Vanga, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Swamp‑Warbler, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Sakalava Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird.
Mammals:
Coquerel's Sifaka, Brown Lemur, Avahi.
MARSHES 17 KM NORTH OF AMPIJORA STATION
North of Ampijora, in the direction of Mahajanga, is a large dam wall with a reservoir behind. By walking up the road (track) at the south side of Lac Amboramalandry, following it along the edge of the water, you come to an arm that is vegetation filled.
Accommodation: the same as at Ampijora Forest Station.
The edge of the shore is good for Herons. The specialities of this site include: Madagascar (Humblot's) Heron, Madagascar Heron, Madagascar Jacana and the chance to see the very rare Bernier's Teal.
Birdspecies:
Little Grebe, White‑backed Duck, BERNIER'S TEAL, African Pygmy‑Goose, Hottentot Teal, Black Heron, Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret), Grey Heron, MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Striated (Green‑backed) Heron, Black Kite, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Buttonquail, Allen's Gallinule, Common Moorhen, MADAGASCAR JACANA, Common Greenshank, Common & Green Sandpiper, Black‑winged Stilt, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Coucal, African Palm‑Swift, Madagascar Bee‑eater, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar (Bush) Lark, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin), (Madagascar) Red Fody.
PÉRINET (ANALAMAZAOTRA SPECIAL RESERVE)
This national park is a rainforest site situated 136 kilometres east of Antananarivo and 206 kilometres west of Tamatave.
Accommodation: Hotel Feon' Ny Ala (small chalets) at the small lake near the reserve or Hotel de la Gare in the village of Andasibe.
The main attraction for the general visitor to Périnet is the Indri, the world's largest (and noisiest) lemur, a magnificent pied creature that sits in trees in family groups and rends the forest with ear‑splitting moans and wails. Its close proximity to the capital (3 hours by car) means that this small national park is the most popular in Madagascar.
The Périnet complex of protected rainforest covers 810 hectares and is vital to the survival of many of the island's unique species. The elevation is lower than Ranomafana, but the two bird‑lists have many overlaps. More than 100 resident species have been recorded, including more than 60 endemics, and a fine selection of lemurs.
Approx. 15 km from Périnet en route from Périnet - Andasibe - Graphite mines lies a good area of rainforest, where Scaly Ground‑Roller and Pitta‑like Ground‑Roller can be found. It is necessary to obtain a permit from the owner of the grafite mines to visit this area. Maurice can arrange it.
Located en route from Antananarivo to Périnet, the bridge over the River Mangoro (west of Moramanga) is a good place to stop. Madagascar Pratincoles can be found on the islands in the river.
Birdspecies:
MADAGASCAR LITTLE GREBE, Little Bittern, Purple Heron, Green‑backed (Striated) Heron, WHITE‑WINGED (MADAGASCAR CRESTED) IBIS, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), MADAGASCAR SPARROWHAWK, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Flufftail, Madagascar Wood Rail, MADAGASCAR RAIL, Cuvier's (White‑throated) Rail, Common Moorhen, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Madagascar Blue‑Pigeon, (Greater) Vasa Parrot, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, RED‑BREASTED COUA, Red‑fronted Coua, Blue Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Malagasy Scops‑Owl, MADAGASCAR LONG‑EARED OWL, Madagascar Nightjar, COLLARED NIGHTJAR, Madagascar Spinetail (Malagasy Spine‑tailed Swift), Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Pygmy‑Kingfisher, Broad‑billed Roller, SHORT‑LEGGED GROUND‑ROLLER, SCALY GROUND‑ROLLER (rare, can be found in the grafite mine area), PITTA‑LIKE GROUND‑ROLLER (very scarce), Cuckoo‑Roller, Velvet Asity, Wattled Asity (Sunbird‑Asity), Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Red‑tailed Vanga, POLLEN'S VANGA (rare), Chabert Vanga, Blue Vanga, Tylas (Vanga), CORRAL‑BILLED NUTHATCH (NUTHATCH VANGA), Madagascar Starling, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Plain (Brown‑throated Sand) Martin, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Spectacled Greenbul, DUSKY GREENBUL (exceptionally rare species), Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Madagascar Swamp‑Warbler, Dark Newtonia, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Green Jery, Stripe‑throated Jery, White‑throated Oxylabes, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin), Madagascar Wagtail, Nelicourvi Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Forest Fody, Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird, CRYPTIC WARBLER.
Mammals:
INDRI, Grey Gentle Lemur, Greater Dwarf Lemur, Russet Mouse‑Lemur, Brown Lemur, Aye-Aye.
MARSHY AREA AT KM 127.2 NEAR PÉRINET
This small marshy area is about 9 km from Périnet en route to Antananarivo at km 127.2 near a very small village.
Accommodation: Hotel Feon' Ny Ala (small chalets) at the small lake near the reserve or Hotel de la Gare in the village of Andasibe.
This area is a very good place to see the rare Madagascar Rail.
Birdspecies:
Little Bittern, Madagascar Buzzard, MADAGASCAR RAIL, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Swamp‑Warbler, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin).
RANOMAFANA NATIONAL PARK
Ranomafana National Park (Ranomafana means 'hot water' in Malagasy) is a rainforest site situated in the east of Madagascar, 445 kilometres south of Antananarivo and 65 kilometres east of Fianarantsoa. The park entrance to the main trail system is c. 5km uphill from Ranomafana village.
Accommodation: Hotel Station Thermale de Ranomafana at Ranomafana (very basic). Cheaper and even more basic accommodation is available in the village.
When combined with Vohiparara, this is the most productive location easily accessible to visiting birders. This national park was set aside to give further protection to what remains of the humid rainforest of eastern Madagascar. This is a superb area of rainforest where a new species of lemur, the Golden Bamboo Lemur, was discovered a few years ago (1986). The bird‑list is long, and contains an impressive number of endemic species.
A permit (20000 Malagasy Francs per person), available from the entrance gate, is required to visit, and guides are compulsory. Beware of the abundant leeches!
Birdspecies:
WHITE‑WINGED (MADAGASCAR CRESTED) IBIS, Madagascar Harrier‑Hawk, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), HENST'S GOSHAWK, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Flufftail, Madagascar Wood Rail, BROWN MESITE, Madagascar Blue‑Pigeon, (Greater) Vasa Parrot, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Grey‑headed Lovebird, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, Red‑fronted Coua, Blue Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Malagasy Scops‑Owl, Madagascar Nightjar, COLLARED NIGHTJAR, African Palm‑Swift, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Pygmy‑Kingfisher, Broad‑billed Roller, SHORT‑LEGGED GROUND‑ROLLER, SCALY GROUND‑ROLLER (rare), PITTA‑LIKE GROUND‑ROLLER, Cuckoo‑Roller, Velvet Asity, Wattled Asity (Sunbird‑Asity), Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Red‑tailed Vanga, Rufous Vanga, Hook‑billed Vanga, POLLEN'S VANGA, White‑headed Vanga, Blue Vanga, Tylas (Vanga), Madagascar Starling, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Plain (Brown‑throated Sand) Martin, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Spectacled Greenbul, DUSKY GREENBUL (exceptionally rare species), Grey‑crowned Greenbul, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Dark Newtonia, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Green Jery, WEDGE‑TAILED JERY, White‑throated Oxylabes, Yellow‑browed Oxylabes, Crossley's Babbler, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin), Madagascar Wagtail, Nelicourvi Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Forest Fody, Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird, CRYPTIC WARBLER.
Mammals:
GOLDEN BAMBOO LEMUR, Diademed Sifaka, Red‑fronted Lemur, Ruffed Lemur, Red-bellied Lemur, Grey Gentle Lemur, Greater Dwarf Lemur, Russet Mouse‑Lemur, Brown Lemur, Avahi, Ring-tailed Mongoose, Striped Civet.
VOHIPARARA
This site is located c. 13 km west of Ranomafana village on the road to Fianarantsoa. This site includes forest trails, a small marsh and wet paddies.
Accommodation: Hotel Station Thermale de Ranomafana at Ranomafana (very basic). Cheaper and even more basic accommodation is available in the village.
The main areas to check here are the small marsh including the disused rice paddies, the roadside trees and the forest trails.
Small‑billed Asity (Yellow‑bellied Sunbird‑Asity) and Rufous‑headed and Short‑legged Ground‑Rollers occur here, as well as the recently described Crypic Warbler, near the tourist routes sign.
The species which occur here are very similar to those that occur at nearby Ranomafana, however there are a number of species seen here which will not be seen elsewhere.
Birdspecies:
Madagascar Little Grebe, MELLER'S DUCK, Red‑billed Teal, Madagascar Buzzard, Madagascar Flufftail, SLENDER‑BILLED FLUFFTAIL, Madagascar Snipe, Greater Painted-Snipe, Madagascar Blue‑Pigeon, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, Red‑fronted Coua, Blue Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Pygmy‑Kingfisher, Broad‑billed Roller, SHORT‑LEGGED GROUND‑ROLLER, RUFOUS‑HEADED GROUND‑ROLLER, Cuckoo‑Roller, Velvet Asity, Wattled Asity (Sunbird‑Asity), Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, POLLEN'S VANGA, SMALL‑BILLED ASITY (YELLOW‑BELLIED SUNBIRD‑ASITY), Tylas (Vanga), FOREST ROCK‑THRUSH, Madagascar Starling, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Spectacled Greenbul, Grey‑crowned Greenbul, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, BROWN EMU‑TAIL, GREY EMU‑TAIL, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Stripe‑throated Jery, Yellow‑browed Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, CRYPTIC WARBLER.
LAKE 9 KM WEST OF VOHIPARARA
This site is a small lake with disused paddies at the back of it.
Accommodation: Hotel Station Thermale de Ranomafana at Ranomafana (very basic). Cheaper and even more basic accommodation is available in the village.
The disused rice paddies are one of the few known sites for Slender‑billed Flufftail, while specialities as Meller's Duck, Réunion Harrier and Madagascar Snipe are regularly seen.
Birdspecies:
MELLER'S DUCK, Red‑billed Duck, Purple Heron, Cattle Egret, Hamerkop, Réunion HARRIER, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Black Kite, SLENDER‑BILLED FLUFFTAIL, MADAGASCAR SNIPE, Madagascar Coucal, Common Myna, Mascarene Martin, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Madagascar (Bush) Lark, Madagascar Wagtail, (Madagascar) Red Fody.
TULEAR (TOLIARA) AREA
This coastal town in southwest Madagascar is surrounded by lagoons, freshwater marshes, mudflats and, most importantly, bizarre Didierea thickets.
1) TULEAR AIRPORT POOL AREA
This is a large salt pool (almost no water when we visited the pool), situated about 500 metres off the main road at the airport, about 7 km north-east of Tulear.
Accommodation: can be found very easily at Tulear.
This site is not essential to visit as the specialty species (Madagascar Plover) here can be seen quite easily at Mora Mora, but it is near the airport and is not out of the way at all.
Birdspecies:
Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret), Grey Heron, MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, Black Kite, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Whimbrel, Common Greenshank, Curlew Sandpiper, Black‑winged Stilt, Common Ringed Plover, MADAGASCAR PLOVER, Kittlitz's Plover, White‑fronted Plover, Greater Sandplover, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Bee‑eater, Pied Crow, Common Myna, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Common Jery, (Madagascar) Red Fody.
2) MORA MORA HOTEL AREA
This is a large area of the famous Spiny Forest, approximately 27 km north of Tulear, along a sandy coastal track towards the town of Ifaty. Access to the spiny forest is almost directly opposite the Mora Mora Hotel.
Accommodation: Mora Mora Hotel, Bamboo Club or the Dunes Hotel.
Today the landscape of baobab and Didiera shrub is a fantastic creation of science fiction, utterly unfamiliar to Europeans. This site, should definitely be included in any itinerary, as it is the only easily accessible area for a number of very rare endemics. With the help of the guides we saw the endemics in a few hours.
Birdspecies:
MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, Cattle Egret, MADAGASCAR HARRIER‑HAWK, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), Madagascar Buzzard, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, BARRED (BANDED) KESTREL, Madagascar Button‑quail, SUBDESERT MESITE, Whimbrel, Common Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Gray (Black‑bellied) Plover, MADAGASCAR PLOVER, Lesser Crested‑Tern, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Green‑Pigeon, (Greater) Vasa Parrot, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Grey‑headed Lovebird, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, Red‑fronted Coua, RUNNING COUA, Red‑capped Coua, Crested Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Nightjar, Madagascar Swift, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Bee‑eater, LONG‑TAILED GROUND‑ROLLER, African Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Red‑tailed Vanga, Hook‑billed Vanga, LAFRESNAYE'S VANGA, Sickle‑billed Vanga, White‑headed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, LITTORAL ROCK‑THRUSH (very rare), Common Myna, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, THAMNORNIS (WARBLER), Common Newtonia, ARCHBOLD'S NEWTONIA, Common Jery, Stripe‑throated Jery, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin), Sakalava Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird.
3) LA MANGROVE HOTEL AREA (ST. AUGUSTIN ROAD)
La Mangrove Hotel is situated 12 km south of Tulear, and the journey time by car from there is only about half an hour.
Accommodation: La Mangrove Hotel
The scrub that grows on the eroded coral 'rags' alongside the road to Baie de St. Augustin, at the mouth of the Onilahy river, 35 km south of Toliara, supports the highly localised Verreaux's Coua and Littoral Rock‑Thrush.
The tracks into the coastal 'rag' are very easy to follow, and the vegetation is low, so no problems should be encountered on this front.
Birdspecies:
Comb (Knob‑billed) Duck, Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret), Grey Heron, MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, Great Egret, Striated (Green‑backed) Heron, Black Kite, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Madagascar Buttonquail, Whimbrel, Common Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Gray (Black‑bellied) Plover, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Green‑Pigeon, Grey‑headed Lovebird, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, Running Coua, Crested Coua, VERREAUX'S COUA, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Nightjar, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Bee‑eater, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Chabert Vanga, Common Myna, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Common Jery, Madagascar (Bush) Lark, Sakalava Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody.
4) NOSY VE ISLAND & ANAKOA
The island of Nosy Ve and the village of Anakoa are accessible by boat, which can be arranged at the Mangrove Hotel or others (Anakoa is an eight-hour trip by road).
Nosy Ve is a small sandy island, opposite Anakoa, situated about 4.5 km offshore, where Red‑tailed Tropicbird breeds.
Accommodation: La Mangrove Hotel.
Day long trips are operated from La Mangrove Hotel to Nosy Ve and Anakoa. It is a very small boat and I don't recommend to sail to the island when the sea state is not good. The island of Nosy Ve has 75 pairs of nesting Red‑tailed Tropicbirds, which are very tame.
Littoral Rock‑Thrush is found in the dune vegetation in the Anakoa hinterland, but also in the village itself.
A boat with 8 persons in it cost 60000 Malagasy Francs per person (lunch included).
Birdspecies:
Nosy Ve: Greater & Lesser Frigatebird, RED‑TAILED TROPICBIRD (75 pairs breeding), Cattle Egret, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, CRAB PLOVER, Gray (Black‑bellied) Plover, White‑fronted Plover, Caspian Tern, Great Crested-Tern, Lesser Crested‑Tern, Roseate Tern, Saunders' Tern, Bridled Tern.
Anakoa: Greater & Lesser Frigatebird, Black Kite, BARRED (BANDED) KESTREL, African Hoopoe, LITTORAL ROCK‑THRUSH, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Plain (Brown‑throated Sand) Martin, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Souimanga Sunbird.
BERENTY RESERVE
This tiny reserve is situated 80 km west of Fort Dauphin and 6 km north of the village of Ambasary.
Accommodation: comfortable chalets at the reserve itself.
Berenty is an active sisal estate, a part of which has been conserved in its original state by the de Heaulme family. The habitat comprises spiny forest, frontage onto the Mandrare River, and most importantly, a 100‑hectare patch of deciduous gallery forest that contains excellent walking tracks.
The ridiculously tame lemurs are the star attraction here, but there are also some good birds including Giant Coua, Malagasy Scops‑Owl and Madagascar Hawk‑Owl (White‑browed Owl). Madagascar Sandgrouse occasionally drink at the Mandrare river at dawn and dusk. For the private reserve of Berenty, a permit has to be obtained in Fort Dauphin (Fort Dauphin) from either the Le Galion or Le Dauphin Hotels.
Birdspecies:
Comb (Knob‑billed) Duck, Red‑billed Teal, Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret), MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Black Kite, Madagascar Harrier‑Hawk, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), Madagascar Sparrowhawk, Madagascar Buzzzard, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Helmeted Guineafowl, Common Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Namaqua Dove, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, GIANT COUA, Crested Coua, MALAGASY SCOPS‑OWL, MADAGASCAR HAWK‑OWL (WHITE‑BROWED OWL), Madagascar Bee‑eater, Broad‑billed Roller, African Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Hook‑billed Vanga, White‑headed Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Common Myna, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Cisticola, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Stripe‑throated Jery, Sakalava Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird.
Mammals:
Lesser (Western) Mouse‑Lemur, Weasel Lemur, Verreaux's Sifaka, Ring‑tailed Lemur, Brown Lemur, White‑footed Sportive Lemur, Madagascar Flying Fox.
ZOMBITSY FOREST
This small area of dry forest is located 18 km northeast of Sakahara, which is 152 km northeast of Tulear and on the road to Ranohira.
Accommodation: Hotel Esperance at Sakahara.
The speciality of this forest is the very rare 'terrestrial' Appert's Greenbul, but if you are not going to Berenty you can also find here Giant Coua and Madagascar Hawk‑Owl (White‑browed Owl).
It is imperative to get into the forest itself to see the Greenbul, as it is a forest floor species, and is unlikely to be seen from the roadside. Access is a problem because of the dense undergrowth, but a woodcutters track is located near the 'football pitch' (about 14 km from Sakahara at the edge of the forest). An overgrown trail is located at 17.5 km from Sakahara.
Birdspecies:
Madagascar Buzzard, Namaqua Dove, Madagascar Green‑Pigeon, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Grey‑headed Lovebird, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, GIANT COUA, COQUEREL'S COUA, Madagascar Coucal, MADAGASCAR HAWK‑OWL (WHITE‑BROWED OWL), Broad‑billed Roller, Cuckoo‑Roller, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Red‑tailed Vanga, Rufous Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Long‑billed Greenbul, APPERT'S GREENBUL, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Madagascar Brush‑Warbler, Common Newtonia, Common Jery, Stripe‑throated Jery, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird.
RELAIS DE LA REINE (ISALO NATIONAL PARK)
This hotel is situated just off the main road, about 285 km south‑west of Fianarantsoa and 247 km northeast of Tulear. The nearest village is Ranohira, which is about 14 km north of Relais de la Reine.
Accommodation: Relais de la Reine or Hotel L'Orchidee de L'Isalo at Ranohira.
This is a small area of water, surrounded by trees, in an area of limestone outcroppings at the edge of the Isalo National Park. Benson's Rock‑Thrush is easily found on the Relais itself. Within a quarter of an hour we had seen three birds on the roof of the hotel!
A permit is not required for visiting this area, but one is needed for visiting Isalo National Park.
The Oasis, another area of small water, is located 2 km north (at km post 97) of Relais de la Reine. There is a dirt track that leaves the road and goes about 500 metres to the Oasis itself. Here at the limestone outcrops Benson's Rock‑Thrush also can be found.
Birdspecies:
Black Kite, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Helmeted Guineafowl, MADAGASCAR PARTRIDGE, Madagascar Buttonquail, Cuvier's (White‑throated) Rail, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Namaqua Dove, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Madagascar (Lesser) Cuckoo, Madagascar Coucal, African Palm‑Swift, Madagascar Swift, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Bee‑eater, Broad‑billed Roller, African Hoopoe, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, BENSON'S ROCK‑THRUSH, Common Myna, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar (Bush) Lark, Madagascar Wagtail, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird.
SITES NOT VISITED
LAKE ALAOTRA
This huge lake, 180 km northeast of Antananarivo, is famous for the Alaotra Little Grebe and Madagascar Pochard. Unfortunately both species may be extinct now. The lake can be viewed from the villages of Ambatosotra or Andreba on the southeast shore, or Anororo on the western site. However the best way to explore the lake is to hire a local boat.
Birdspecies:
Little Grebe, Madagascar Little Grebe, ALAOTRA GREBE, MELLER'S DUCK, MADAGASCAR POCHARD, Madagascar Pond‑Heron, MADAGASCAR (HUMBLOT'S) HERON, REUNION HARRIER, MADAGASCAR RAIL, MADAGASCAR SNIPE.
AMBANISANA
The area around Ambanisana on the Masoala Peninsula in northeast Madagascar supports a fine selection of rare Madagascar endemics, notably Madagascar Serpent‑Eagle, Madagascar Red Owl, Scaly Ground‑Roller, Bernier's Vanga and Helmetbird. Except the Scaly Ground‑Roller all the species are virtually impossible to see elsewhere.
Accommodation actually at the site, is basically restricted to camping. This superb site is accessible by boat from Maroantsetra. There are many trails here (ask local people for directions). Guides are available, but are not very good on birds.
Birdspecies:
Long‑tailed (Reed) Cormorant, White‑faced Whistling‑Duck, , Black Heron, Mascarene Reef‑Egret (Dimorphic Egret, Cattle Egret, Striated (Green‑backed) Heron, Black‑crowned Night‑Heron, MADAGASCAR SERPENT‑EAGLE, Frances' Goshawk (Sparrowhawk), HENST'S GOSHAWK, Madagascar Buzzard, Newton's (Madagascar) Kestrel, Eleonora's Falcon, BROWN MESITE, Whimbrel, Common Sandpiper, Ruddy Turnstone, Sanderling, Madagascar Pratincole, Gray (Black‑bellied) Plover, Great Crested‑tern, Lesser Crested‑tern, Roseate Tern, Madagascar Turtle‑Dove, Madagascar Green‑Pigeon, Madagascar Blue‑Pigeon, Black (Lesser Vasa) Parrot, Red‑breasted Coua, Crested Coua, Blue Coua, Madagascar Coucal, Malagasy Scops‑Owl, MADAGASCAR RED OWL, Madagascar Spinetail (Malagasy Spine‑tailed Swift), African Palm‑Swift, Diademed (Malagasy) Kingfisher, Madagascar Pygmy‑Kingfisher, Madagascar Bee‑eater, Broad‑billed Roller, SCALY GROUND‑ROLLER, Cuckoo‑Roller, Velvet Asity, Madagascar Paradise‑Flycatcher, Crested Drongo, Pied Crow, Madagascar (Ashy) Cuckoo‑Shrike, Red‑tailed Vanga, Rufous Vanga, Chabert Vanga, Blue Vanga, Tylas (Vanga), Coral‑billed Nuthatch (Nuthatch Vanga), BERNIER'S VANGA, HELMETBIRD, Madagascar Starling, Madagascar Magpie‑Robin, Mascarene Martin, Long‑billed Greenbul, Spectacled Greenbul, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar White‑eye, Stripe‑throated Jery, White‑throated Oxylabes, Crossley's Babbler, Madagascar Munia (Mannikin), Nelicourvi Weaver, (Madagascar) Red Fody, Souimanga Sunbird, Madagascar (Long‑billed Green) Sunbird.
Why not send us a report, or an update to one of your current reports?
