Trip report Malawi (with a side trip to Zambia)July 1999

A report by Jan Vermeulen

CONTENTS

General-Information
References
Itinerary(summary)
The Sites:

Malawi:-
Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary
Dzalanyama Forest Reserve
Nyika National Park
Nkhata Bay area
Liwonde National Park
Blantyre area
Lengwe National Park

Zambia:
South Luangwa National Park

Daily Log
Systematic List of Birds
Systematic List of Mammals

GENERAL INFORMATION

In July 1999 I spent more than three weeks in Malawi and the Luangwa Valley in Zambia with Staf & Jos Elzermans, Vital & Riet van Gorp, Wilfred Sterk and Eric Wille.

The main objective of the trip was to see as many birds as possible. The two major habitats we covered during our visit were (Brachystegia) woodland and montane forests.

We recorded 367 species during this time, including Bronze-winged Courser, Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, Ruwenzori Nightjar, Boehm’s Bee-eater, Brown-breasted Barbet, Pallid Honeyguide, White-chested & Cholo Alethe, East Coast Akalat, White‑winged Apalis, Brown Warbler (Parisoma), Green‑backed Twinspot, Striped Pipit and a host of miombo species such as Pale-billed Hornbill, Racket-tailed Roller, Stierling’s Woodpecker, Souza’s Shrike and Boehm’s Flycatcher.

Malawi, formerly known as the Nyasaland Protectorate, is a small narrow country bordered by Tanzania, Mozambique and Zambia and is best known for Lake Malawi, the third largest lake of Africa. Malawi does not support as many species as Kenya or South Africa, but its relatively modern infrastructure, short distances, fine landscapes and excellent avifauna, including quite a few birds which are hard elsewhere to see, make it a worthy destination. Combined with a visit to South Luangwa National Park of adjacent Zambia, a trip to this part of Africa should produce a fine selection of birds and mammals.

Malawi is densely populated, but the Malawi government seems keen to protect the country’s natural resources.

They have designed nine national parks and many forest reserves, which may help the threatened birds occurring in Malawi. However forest sites such as Soche Mountain and the Thyolo Mountains are probably living on borrowed time.

FLIGHT AND VISA

We travelled to Malawi via Brussels, London and Harare (Zimbabwe). Our return-ticket (British Airways) for the air journey cost us about 850 US$. You do not need a visa for Malawi, but you definitely need one for Zambia. A yellow fever inoculation certificate is compulsory and must be submitted with your visa application.

We applied for one at the embassy at Brussels and the visa cost us 25 US$. When you're leaving Malawi, you have to pay 20 US$ departure tax.

MONEY

The official currency of Malawi is the Malawi Kwacha (MK). The Kwacha fluctuated between 42 - 45 to the Dollar. The unit of currency in Zambia is the Zambian Kwacha. The exchange rate was about 2400 Zambian Kwacha to the Dollar.

All major credit cards and traveller cheques are accepted. Changing money at any of the commercial banks is usually easy and often, but not always, quick.

ACCOMMODATION

There are expensive first-class hotels in the main towns, cheaper resthouses in all urban centres. All wildlife reserves and larger forest reserves have accommodation of varying standard.

Prices of accommodation:

Malawi

Dzalanyama Forest Resthouse (1080 MK - double room)
Tiyeseho (Try) Hotel, Mchinji (200 MK - double room)
Kasungu Inn, Kasungu (1260 MK - double room)
Chalet, Nyika NP (100 US$  - 2 double rooms)
Camping at Nyika NP (5 US$ - per person)
Chikale Beach Resort, Nkhata Bay (850 MK - double room)
Camping at Liwonde NP (8 US$ - per person)
Chalet at Liwonde NP (38 US$ - per person)
Grace Bandawe Conference Centre, Blantyre (500 MK  - double room)
Chalet, Lengwe NP (270 MK - double room)
Hotel Capital, Lilongwe (plush!)(216 US$ - double room)

Zambia

Wildlife Camp (chalet), South Luangwa NP (60 US$- 2 double rooms)

FOOD AND DRINK

Generally quite good. Stay away from uncooked fruits and vegetables that you haven't peeled yourself, and don't use ice.

It is best to avoid drinking the water unless you know it is boiled.

Restaurants are available in towns and some national parks (South Luangwa, Nyika and Liwonde).

During our stay at the other reserves we bought food for a few days. Most of the towns have small supermarkets where you can buy most of your supplies. We also bought mineral water, fanta, sprite and beer (Carlsberg). Fresh vegetables can easily be purchased at local markets.

We did not experience any serious stomach upsets despite regularly eating local food.

ENTRANCE FEES  NATIONALPARKS

The entrance fees of national parks in Malawi are 5 US$ p.p. per day and a car cost 2 US$ per day.

Park fees in Zambia are considerably higher and the entrance fee of South Luangwa National Park was 20 US$ p.p. per day and a car cost 15 US$ per day!

HEALTH AND SAFETY

Theft is really not a problem in Malawi unless you are careless. Malawians are very friendly and helpful and the country is very safe and the worst that the traveller is likely to encounter is a pickpocket in Blantyre or Lilongwe.

For vaccinations consult your own doctor for up to date advice. Malaria is a major risk so all precautions against malaria are a must. Lake Malawi is generally free from bilharzia at the main beaches but don’t paddle in still water or around reeds.

A Yellow Fever Inoculation Certificate is required to enter and leave Malawi and Zambia!

Lock your car at all times, never leave valuables in open sight.

TAKE CARE: Many of the animals local to the camps in South Luangwa National Park in Zambia are very used to humans - and their food and litter! Baboons, elephants, hyenas and even lions can cause major problems for visitors - don't leave anything outside at night and never sleep even partially outside a tent. Make sure that your tent is fully zipped up.

Elephants in Liwonde National Park are unpredictable and can be dangerous, so give them a wide berth.

Never approach elephants, hippos, lions or other large animals too closely.

LANGUAGE

English is the official language in Malawi and Zambia and is widely spoken nearly everywhere.

WEATHER

The weather was generally pleasant, sometimes warm and sunny. Humidity was only really high at Nkhata Bay. In the early morning at Nyika NP it was really cold.

Since this is the Southern Hemisphere, mid‑winter is June/July and mid‑summer is December/January. The best time of the year to visit Malawi is at the start of the wet season (October to November) and January to February, when the birds are breeding. For cooler, more pleasant weather, try April – September, when birdwatching is still excellent.

EQUIPMENT

A small tape recorder and the excellent bird call sets of South African birds by Guy Gibbon is quite useful for drawing in birds. Guy Gibbon's comprehensive set of pre‑recorded southern African birdcalls is available at approximately $60 for a set of 6 cassettes.

The set may be ordered from Wild Sounds, Cross Street, Salthouse, Norfolk NR25 7XH, England, telefax: 44‑1263‑741100.

A good torch is a must. A telescope is useful at lakes and very useful for viewing canopy species especially from roadsides. Photography is NOT difficult, as birds are easy to approach and light conditions are good.

Clothing can be T‑shirt and short anywhere (during the daytime) except at Nyika National Park.

TRANSPORT AND ROADS

Road conditions in Malawi vary, but are generally good by African standards, make getting around easy. The main roads are sealed, but elsewhere are poor‑quality dirt, where a 4‑wheel drive would be a distinct advantage.

WARNING: If you haven't a high clearance 4WD vehicle in Nyika NP, don't even consider visiting this reserve, or you will certainly get some big problems!

It is very difficult to get around in Malawi without personal transport, as public transport is not recommended.

In Malawi, it's best to hire a car if you can afford it. For car rental, you will need a major credit card and a valid international driver's license

Car hire was pre‑booked in Belgium with Wilfred Sterk. Wilfred, a Belgian, living eight months a year in Zimbabwe, has a few Landrovers and can be contacted at the following address: Wilfred Sterk, Rekai Tangwena Avenue 5, Marondera, telephone 79/23087. We had to pay Wilfred 75 US$ per Landrover per day.

It is forbidden to alight from one's car away from specified areas in South Luangwa National Park and Liwonde National Park.

This is no great disadvantage as we found most of the birds and animals most confiding and the car provided a superb hide.

NOMENCLATURE & TAXONOMY

In Africa there is much confusion regarding the English names for birds, and often each author, having their own preferences which results in the same species having up to 3 or 4 different names.

For instance:

Pycnonotus barbatus: Blackeyed Bulbul (Newman and Roberts), Garden Bulbul (Howard & Moore), Common Bulbul (Clements), Yellow-vented Bulbul (Williams/Arlott)....ridiculous!

I have decided to follow the English names of James F. Clements (July 1991, Birds of the World, A Check List).

COMMON BIRDSPECIES

The following list of birds we saw frequently and if you spend any sort of time in the right habitats you will too:

Long‑tailed Cormorant, Black-headed Heron, Cattle Egret, Hamerkop, Hadada Ibis, African Openbill, African Fish-Eagle, Bateleur, Helmeted Guineafowl, Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove, Red‑eyed Dove, Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove (Greenspotted Dove), Speckled Mousebird, African Palm‑Swift, Pied Kingfisher, Little Bee‑eater, Lilac‑breasted Roller, Red‑billed Hornbill, Crowned Hornbill, Fork‑tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, Common Fiscal, Black‑backed Puffback, Greater Blue‑eared Glossy‑Starling, Meve's Glossy‑Starling, Wire‑tailed Swallow, Lesser Striped‑Swallow, Common (Blackeyed) Bulbul, African Yellow White-eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Green-backed Camaroptera (Bleating Warbler), Grey-headed Sparrow, Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Bronze Mannikin, African Pied Wagtail, White‑browed Sparrow‑Weaver, Red‑billed Quelea, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary.

For a detailed report of species and numbers please refer to the systematic list at the end of this report.

REFERENCES

BOOKS

-       James F. Clements. Birds of the World. A Check List.

-       Jonathan Kingdon. The Kingdon Field Guide to African Mammals.

-       Gordon Lindsay Maclean. Robert's Birds of Southern Africa.

-       KENNETH NEWMAN. BIRDS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA, EXPANDED EDITION.

-       KENNETH NEWMAN, NIGEL JOHNSTON-STEWART & BOB MEDLAND. BIRDS OF MALAWI, A SUPPLEMENT TO NEWMAN’S BIRDS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA.

-       IAN SINCLAIR, PHIL HOCKEY & WARWICK TARBOTON, ILLUSTRATED GUIDE TO THE BIRDS OF SOUTHERN AFRICA.

-       E.K. Urban, L.H. Brown, K.B. Newman. The Birds of Africa, volume I. Ostriches to Falcons.

-       E.K. Urban, C.H. Fry, S. Keith. The Birds of Africa, volume II (Gamebirds to Pigeons), volume III (Parrots to Woodpeckers), volume IV (Broadbills to Chats) and volume V (Thrushes to Puffback Flycatchers).

-       Michael Walters. Complete Checklist. Vogels van de Wereld.

-       Nigel Wheatley. Where to watch birds in Africa.

Nigel Wheatley's " Where to watch birds in Africa" is useful at the planning stage.

REPORTS AND ARTICLES

-  Andrew Dobson. Malawi and the Luangwa Valley 27th July – 2nd September 1988

-   Valéry Schollaert. Malawi from 5th to 25th June 1996, an ornithological report.

-   Jon Hornbuckle. Report on a Birding Trip to Malawi 5 – 15th March 1997.

-   Henk Hendriks. Malawi , A Birder’s Guide to Malawi, Southern Africa, based on a trip from 13-07-1997 until 25‑08‑1997

-  Robert Langhendries. Malawi. Report on a birding trip, 27th September – 18th October 1997.

-   Birdwatching in Malawi. Bob Medland. An article in the Bulletin of the African Bird Club, Volume 2 No 2 August 1995.

I found the detailed notes by Henk Hendriks most useful, with additional information from the report by Jon Hornbuckle.

SOFTWARE

BIRDBASE& BIRDAREA

I use this software to keep track of the birds I have seen and to make lists of any country, labelling endemics and birds previously seen in that country, outside it, or both. BirdArea can produce checklists of the birds of any country of Clements’ world birds.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Many thanks to Mark van Beirs and Henk Hendriks for help and advice and particularly to Jos and Staf Elzermans for driving the Landrovers with Wilfred from Zimbabwe (Harare) to Malawi and back to Zimbabwe.

ITINERARY

MALAWI

July 10    Chaam * Brussels * London
July 11    Harare * Lilongwe * Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary * Dzalanyama Forest Reserve
July 12    Dzalanyama Forest Reserve
July 13    Dzalanyama Forest Reserve * Mchinji

ZAMBIA

July 14    Mchinji * Chipata * South Luangwa National Park
July 15    South Luangwa National Park
July 16    South Luangwa National Park
July 17    South Luangwa National Park * Chipata * Mchinji* Kasungu

MALAWI

July 18    Kasungu * Mzuzu * Rumphi * Nyika National Park
July 19    Nyika National Park
July 20    Nyika National Park
July 21    Nyika National Park * Rumphi * Mzuzu * Nkhata Bay
July 22    Nkhata Bay - Kalwe Forest Reserve * Nkwadzi Forest Reserve * Nkhata Bay
July 23    Nkhata Bay * Salima * Liwonde National Park
July 24    Liwonde National Park
July 25    Liwonde National Park
July 26    Liwonde National Park * Zomba * Blantyre
July 27    Blantyre * Thyolo Mountains * Blantyre
July 28    Soche Mountain * Lengwe National Park
July 29    Lengwe National Park
July 30    Lengwe National Park * Blantyre
July 31    Blantyre * Soche Mountain * Blantyre * Lilongwe
August 1/2          Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary * Harare * London * Brussels * Chaam

THE SITES

Most of the sites are detailed in the trip reports, so I will restrict to a brief description and mention the species we have seen.

MALAWI

LILONGWE NATURE SANCTUARY

Accommodation: a hotel in Lilongwe.

Lilongwe NR situated in the middle of the capital in Central Malawi, may be your first introduction to the common species of Central Malawi. It is a good place to bird, when you have a free afternoon after arriving or the last morning of your trip to Malawi before taking your plane.

The thick bush, gallery forest, bamboo thickets and woodland supports White‑backed Night‑Heron, African Finfoot, Half‑collared Kingfisher and Magpie Mannikin, to name a few.

Birds seen:

Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant,Yellow‑billed Duck, Black‑headed Heron, Hamerkop, Black Kite, Helmeted Guineafowl, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Red‑eyed Dove, Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove (Greenspotted Dove), Speckled Mousebird, Livingstone’s, Half‑collared Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher, Brown‑hooded Kingfisher, Giant Kingfisher, Striped Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Green (Redbilled) Woodhoopoe, Yellow‑fronted Tinkerbird, Black-collared Barbet, Bearded Woodpecker, Fork‑tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, Tropical Boubou, (Orange-) Sulphur‑breasted Bushshrike, Chinspot Batis, Black‑throated Wattle‑eye (Wattle‑eyed Flycatcher), Greater Blue‑eared Glossy‑Starling, African Dusky Flycatcher, Ashy (Bluegrey) Flycatcher, White‑browed Robin‑Chat (Heuglin’s Robin), Wire‑tailed Swallow, Common Bulbul, Terrestrial Brownbul, African Yellow White‑eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Grey‑backed Camaroptera, Yellow‑breasted Apalis, Greencap Eremomela, Peters’ (Redthroated) Twinspot, Red‑billed Firefinch, Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Bronze Mannikin, Magpie (Pied) Mannikin, African Pied Wagtail, Mountain (Long‑tailed) Wagtail, Golden Weaver, Spectacled Weaver, Village (Spottedbacked) Weaver, Red‑billed Quelea, Collared Sunbird, Scarlet‑chested Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary.

Birds we did not see:

Black Goshawk, White‑backed Night‑Heron, African Finfoot, White‑faced Scops‑Owl, Narina Trogon, African Broadbill.

DZALANYAMA FOREST RESERVE

Accommodation: Dzalanyama Forest Resthouse in the reserve. You have to make reservations. We did not make reservations, but we managed to get rooms at the resthouse. You have to bring your own food and drink.

Southwest of Lilongwe (two hours driving to the resthouse) towards the Zambian border, lies an impressive expanse of pristine miombo woodland at Dzalanyama Forest Reserve, an excellent site for the miombo specialities.

Miombo bird-watching is a pretty easy-going affair, you just drive slowly along the forest, until you come across a bird party, stop and get out, don’t panic and you may well pick up twenty or more species in ten minutes.

Birds seen:

(Western) Banded Snake‑Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, African Hawk‑Eagle, Coqui Francolin, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Red‑eyed Dove, Emerald Spotted Wood‑Dove, Speckled Mousebird, Schalow’s Turaco, Swallow‑tailed Bee‑eater, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Pale-billed Hornbill, Trumpeter Hornbill, Whyte's Barbet, Miombo Barbet, Stierling’s Woodpecker, Fork-tailed Drongo, African Black‑headed Oriole, White‑breasted Cuckoo‑Shrike, Souza’s Shrike, Brubru, Black‑backed Puffback, Black‑crowned Tchagra, White Helmetshrike, Retz's (Redbilled) Helmetshrike, Chinspot Batis, Miombo Rock‑Thrush, Kurrichane Thrush, Pale (Mousecoloured) Flycatcher, Boehm’s Flycatcher, African Dusky Flycatcher, Ashy (Bluegrey) Flycatcher, Miombo (Central Bearded) Scrub‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Familiar Chat, Wire-tailed Swallow, Eastern Sawwing, Common Bulbul, African Yellow White‑eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Green‑backed Camaroptera, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Greencap Eremomela, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Southern (Mashona) Hyliota, Rufous‑bellied Tit, Yellow‑throated Petronia, Orange‑winged (Goldenbacked) Pytilia, Green‑winged Pytilia (Melba Finch), Peters’ (Redthroated) Twinspot, Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Bronze Mannikin, Broad‑tailed Paradise‑Whydah, Mountain (Longtailed) Wagtail, Yellow‑throated Longclaw, Olive‑headed Weaver, Anchieta’s (Red and Blue) Sunbird, Amethyst (Black) Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, Miombo Sunbird, Shelley’s Sunbird, Black‑eared Seedeater, Cinnamon‑breasted (Rock) Bunting, Golden‑breasted Bunting, Cabanis’ Bunting.

Birds we did not see:

Pennant‑winged Nightjar (absent during this time of the year), Red‑capped Crombec, Stierling’s Wren‑Warbler, Lesser (Nyasa) Seedcracker.

NYIKA NATIONAL PARK

Accommodation: It is possible to camp or to hire a chalet at Chelinda Camp. The campsite is 2 km from the main accommodation. There is a restaurant at Chelinda.

At the northern end of Lake Malawi is the Nyika Plateau (3135 km2), an almost tundra‑like area of upland dotted with montane rainforest patches, marshes and small lakes that is part of the western rim of the Great Rift Valley, surrounded by Brachystegia covered foothills.

This is the premier birdwatching destination in Malawi or for anyone wishing to escape the summer heat of the valleys below. Due to the high altitude, night temperatures some times drop below freezing from May - September as we noticed.

The road across the plateau and until the junction towards the Chelinda Camp area forms the international border with Zambia with free access between Malawi and Zambia. The park is quite well covered in Bob Medland’s ABC article, but the recommended Zambian resthouse has been closed.

To get the most out of your visit it is necessary to visit two rainforest patches: Zovo Chipolo Forest and Chowo Forest, the latter is actually in Zambia.

Allow some time entering and leaving the park to bird the Brachystegia woodland on either side of Thazima gate for bird parties.

Birds seen:

Little Grebe (Dabchick), Yellow‑billed Duck, Black‑headed Heron, White‑backed Vulture, Rufous‑chested Sparrowhawk, Augur Buzzard, Red‑winged Francolin, Common Quail, Knobbed Coot, Stanley Bustard, Common Sandpiper, African (Rameron) Pigeon, Dusky (Pinkbreasted) Turtle Dove, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Speckled Mousebird, Schalow’s Turaco, Grey Go‑away‑bird, Spotted Eagle‑Owl, Ruwenzori Nightjar, Freckled Nightjar, Bar‑tailed Trogon, Pied Kingfisher, Common (Greater) Scimitar-bill, Crowned Hornbill, Moustached Green‑Tinkerbird, Black‑collared Barbet, Cardinal Woodpecker, Olive Woodpecker, White‑tailed Blue‑Flycatcher, White‑tailed Crested‑Flycatcher, Fork-tailed Drongo, White‑necked Raven, African Black‑headed Oriole, White‑breasted Cuckoo‑Shrike, Brubru, Black‑backed Puffback, Black‑crowned Tchagra, Fuelleborn’s Boubou, Grey‑headed Bushshrike, Malawi Batis, Miombo Rock‑Thrush, Kurrrichane Thrush, White‑chested Alethe, Waller’s Starling, White‑eyed Slaty‑Flycatcher, Southern Black‑Flycatcher, African Dusky Flycatcher, White‑starred Robin, Sharpe’s Akalat, Olive‑flanked Robin‑Chat, Cape Robin‑Chat, Common Stonechat, Familiar Chat, White‑headed Black‑Chat (Arnot’s Chat), Spotted Creeper, Wire-tailed Swallow, Common Bulbul, (Olivebreasted) Mountain Greenbul, Sharpe’s Greenbul, African Yellow White‑eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Trilling Cisticola, (Mountain) Black‑lored Cisticola, Lazy Cisticola, Churring Cisticola, Wing‑snapping (Ayres’) Cisticola, Bar‑throated Apalis, Brown‑headed Apalis, Mountain Warbler, Greencap Eremomela, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Brown Warbler (Parisoma), Mountain Illadopsis, Abyssinian Hill‑Babbler (Mountain Babbler), Rufous‑bellied, Miombo (Northern Grey) Tit, African   (Grey) Penduline‑Tit, Rufous‑naped Lark, Black‑tailed (Grey) Waxbill, Yellow‑bellied Waxbill (East African Swee), Common Waxbill, Variable-Indigobird (Black Widowfinch), African Pied Wagtail, Buffy Pipit, Jackson’s Pipit, Spectacled Weaver, Buff‑shouldered Widowbird (Mountain Marsh Widow), Anchieta’s (Red and Blue) Sunbird, Green‑headed Sunbird, Amethyst (Black) Sunbird, Scarlet‑chested Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, Miombo Sunbird, Malachite Sunbird, Red‑tufted Sunbird, Miombo Sunbird, Cape Canary, African Citril, Southern Yellow‑rumped Seedeater (Blackthroated Canary), Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary, Reichard’s (Stripebreasted) Seedeater, Yellow‑browed Seedeater, Cabanis’Bunting.

Birds we did not see:

Wattled Crane (we were one month too early), Pennant‑winged Nightjar (absent this time of year), Blue Quail, Black‑backed Barbet, Orange Ground‑Thrush, Chapin’s Apalis, Chestnut‑throated Apalis, Evergreen Forest Warbler (luckily we did see this bird near Blantyre), Blue Swallow (absent this time of year), Angola Swallow, Baglafecht Weaver, Oriole Finch.

Chestnut‑backed Sparrow‑Weaver and Babbling Starling are said to be easy at Kawyia Camp at Vwaza Marsh, a large reserve just south of Nyika NP, a place we did not visit.

NKHATA BAY AREA

Accommodation: Chikale Beach Resort at Nkhata Bay or plenty of other accommodation.

Close to Nkhata Bay are the lakeshore reserves: Kalwe Forest Reserve and Nkwadzi Forest Reserve.

Both remnant patches of rainforest are the best locations for the elusive East Coast Akalat (Gunning’s Robin), difficult to see at its better known haunts along the Kenyan Coast.

Kalwe Forest Reserve:

Go inland on the main road to Mzuzu. A few kilometres west of the Nkhata Bay/Mzuzu/Chinteche junction is a remnant patch of rainforest. The forest is signposted on the left-hand side of the road coming from Nkhata Bay.

There is a fairly good road into the forest. Park your car a few hundred metres up this road and play the tape.

Nkwadzi Forest Reserve:

This forest is situated en route from Nkhata Bay to Chinteche, approximately 15 kilometres from the Nkhata Bay/Mzuzu/Chinteche junction.

After the second stretch of rubber plantation (Vizarra Estate), there is nice patch of rainforest: Nkwadzi Forest.

At the southern side of the forest there is a small village. Park your car here and ask for the park guards.

They will gladly accompany you on the difficult to find track on the other side of the main road.

In both forests East Coast Akalat was easy to find, but otherwise both forests were rather lifeless.

Birds seen:

Green‑backed (Little Spotted) Woodpecker, African Golden‑Oriole, Black Cuckoo‑Shrike, Chinspot Batis, Green‑backed Camaroptera, East Coast Akalat (Gunning’s Robin), Lemon‑breasted Seedeater (near Kalwe FR at a marshy area along a river on the Mzuzu road), Purple‑banded Sunbird.

Birds we did not see:

Bronze‑naped Pigeon, Broad‑billed Roller, Yellowbill, Narina Trogon, Black‑bellied Gloss-Starling, Grey Sunbird.

LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK

Accommodation: the campsite or a chalet at Mvuu Camp, but I recommend camping.

Liwonde encompasses part of the Shire River and some marshes and mopane woodland in the Shire Valley.

The dominant vegetation is Mopane woodland.

Birdlife is abundant in Liwonde with over 500 species having been recorded. Mvuu Camp on the banks of the Shire River, is a very attractive birding spot and here we spent most of our time. Around the campsite we saw amongst many others: African Cuckoo‑Falcon, Red‑necked Falcon, African Barred Owlet, Boehm’s Bee‑eater, Brown‑breasted Barbet, Livingstone’s Flycatcher and Collared Palm‑Thrush.

A serious problem at the camp is that you are not allowed to go birding on your own (walking). The nest site of the Brown‑breasted Barbet is only 400 metres from the camp, but you are not allowed to walk to this place.

The local guide is now Benjamin (Ben), since Robert Nyirenda has left the place. Ben is knowledgeable and sharp‑eyed, although we did surprise him when we identified a melanistic form of the Gabar Goshawk within 5 seconds. He did not believe us and after consulting his book he reluctantly admitted that we were right.

Make a bird walk with Ben in the early morning with an armed ranger, although this is very expensive (18 US$ p.p.), but it is the only way to see the barbet.

Birds seen:

Great (Whitebreasted) Cormorant, African Darter, White‑faced Whistling‑Duck, Spur‑winged Goose, Comb Duck, Intermediate Egret, Grey Heron, Black‑headed Heron, Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Squacco Heron, Goliath Heron, Striated (Greenbacked) Heron, Hamerkop, Glossy Ibis, Hadada Ibis, African Spoonbill, African Openbill, Marabou Stork, African Cuckoo‑Falcon, African Fish‑Eagle, White‑headed Vulture, (Western) Banded Snake‑Eagle, Bateleur, African Marsh‑Harrier, African Harrier‑Hawk (Gymnogene), Gabar Goshawk, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Ayres’ Hawk‑Eagle, Dickinson’s Kestrel, Red‑necked Falcon, Helmeted Guineafowl, Red‑necked Spurfowl, African Jacana, Common Sandpiper, Black‑winged Stilt, Bronze‑winged Courser, Temminck’s Courser, Long‑toed Lapwing, Blacksmith Plover, White‑headed Lapwing, Senegal Lapwing (Lesser Blackwinged Plover), Gray‑headed Gull, Laughing Dove, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Red‑eyed Dove, Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove (Greenspotted Dove), Tambourine Dove, Namaqua Dove, Brown‑headed Parrot, Lilian’s Lovebird, Red‑faced Mousebird, Purple‑crested Turaco, Grey Go‑away‑bird, African Emerald Cuckoo, Burchell's Coucal, Fiery‑necked Nightjar, African Barred Owlet, African Palm‑Swift, Malachite Kingfisher, Brown‑hooded Kingfisher, Striped Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Little Bee-eater, Swallow‑tailed Bee‑eater, Boehm’s Bee‑eater, Lilac‑breasted Roller, African Hoopoe, Green (Redbilled) Woodhoopoe, Common (Greater) Scimitar-bill, Red‑billed Hornbill, Crowned Hornbill, African Grey Hornbill, Southern Ground‑Hornbill, Brown‑breasted Barbet, Greater Honeyguide, Lesser Honeyguide, Green‑backed (Slenderbilled) Honeyguide, Cardinal woodpecker, Livingstone’s Flycatcher, African Paradise‑Flycatcher, Fork‑tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, African Golden‑Oriole, Black Cuckoo‑Shrike, Brubru, Black‑backed Puffback, Brown‑crowned (Threestreaked) Tchagra, Tropical Boubou, (Orange-) Sulphur‑breasted Bushshrike, Grey‑headed Bushshrike, Chinspot Batis, Black‑throated Wattle‑eye (Wattle‑eyed Flycatcher), Greater Blue‑eared Glossy‑Starling, Southern Blue‑eared Glossy‑Starling, (Longtailed) Meves’ Glossy‑Starling, Red‑billed Oxpecker, African Dusky Flycatcher, White‑browed Robin‑Chat (Heuglin’s Robin), Red‑capped Robin‑Chat, Collared Palm‑Thrush, White‑headed Black‑Chat (Arnot's Chat), Grey‑rumped Swallow, Wire‑tailed Swallow, Pearl‑breasted Swallow, Common Bulbul, Sombre Greenbul, Yellow‑bellied Greenbul, Placid Greenbul, Terrestrial Brownbul, African Yellow White‑eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Yellow‑breasted Apalis, Grey‑backed Camaroptera, Cape (Longbilled) Crombec, Arrow‑marked Babbler, Southern Black‑Tit, Cinnamon‑breasted Tit, Flappet Lark, Grey‑headed Sparrow, Green‑winged Pytilia (Melba Finch), Red‑billed Firefinch, Jameson’s Firefinch, Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Bronze Mannikin, Cutthroat, Village Indigobird (Steelblue Widowfinch), Eastern Paradise‑Whydah, African Pied Wagtail, Yellow‑throated Longclaw, White‑browed Sparrow‑Weaver, Spectacled Weaver, Southern Brown‑throated Weaver, Red‑billed Quelea, Collared Sunbird, Scarlet‑chested Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, Eastern Double‑collared Sunbird, Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary, Cinnamon‑breasted (Rock) Bunting.

Birds we did not see:

Rufous‑bellied Heron, White‑backed Night‑Heron, Bat Hawk, Lesser Jacana, Pel’s Fishing‑Owl, Boehm’s Spinetail, Racket‑tailed Roller, Black‑winged Bishop.

BLANTYRE AREA

Accommodation: A hotel in Blantyre: Grace Bandawe Conference Centre.

Amongst the many tea plantations on the Thyolo Mountains to the south of Blantyre, remnant montane forest patches support some rare African species.

SOCHE MOUNTAIN

This site, just south of Blantyre is supposedly the easiest site to observe the Cholo Alethe, Malawi’s (well almost) only endemic.

From Blantyre take Victoria Road and Kapemi Road to the top of hill with the satellite disk on your left. Turn right at the satellite (crossroads) and drive into a small dirty village. Park your car at the PHC-church (50 m before the transformer mast) on the right side of the road and walk along the church to the mountain.

Follow the main path into the forest. Key birds we did see were: Pallid Honeyguide, Green‑backed Honeyguide, Black‑fronted Bushshrike, Malawi Batis, Pale Batis, Black‑throated Wattle‑eye, Cholo Alethe, Placid Greenbul, Black‑headed Apalis, White‑winged Apalis, Striped Pipit,

THYOLO MOUNTAINS

The Thyolo Mountains, an hour’s drive from Blantyre, hold almost the same birds as Soche Mountain. Green‑headed Oriole is said to be easy here, but we dipped miserably.

Drive from Blantyre to Limbe and then take the very bad road to Thyolo (a new road was almost finished!). It is almost 30 km from Blantyre to the Satemwa Tea Estate. The Tea Estate is signposted along the main road.

Birds seen in both areas:

African Fish‑Eagle, Shikra (Little Banded Goshawk), Ovampo Sparrowhawk, Verreaux's (Black) Eagle, Martial Eagle, Eurasian Kestrel, Lanner Falcon, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Tambourine Dove, African Palm‑Swift, Livingstone’s Turaco, White‑eared Barbet, Green Barbet, Yellow‑rumped Tinkerbird, Pallid (Eastern) Honeyguide, Green‑backed (Slenderbilled) Honeyguide, Square‑tailed Drongo, African Golden‑Oriole, African Black‑headed Oriole, Grey Cuckoo‑Shrike, Brubru, Black‑backed Puffback, Black‑fronted Bushshrike, Malawi Batis, Pale (Mozambique) Batis, Black‑throated Wattle‑eye, Olive Thrush, Cholo Alethe, Ashy (Bluegrey) Flycatcher, White‑starred Robin, (Eastern) Bearded Scrub‑Robin, Common Stonechat, Familiar Chat, Eastern Sawwing, Common Bulbul, Little Greenbul, Stripe‑cheeked Bulbul, Yellow‑bellied Greenbul, Placid Greenbul, Grey‑olive Greenbul, Yellow‑streaked Greenbul, African Yellow White‑eye, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, White‑winged Apalis, Black‑headed Apalis, Green‑backed Camaroptera, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Greencap Eremomela, Yellow‑throated Woodland‑Warbler, Southern (Mashona) Hyliota, Yellow‑throated Petronia, Green‑backed Twinspot, Peters’ (Redthroated) Twinspot, Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Black‑and‑white (Redbacked) Mannikin, Mountain (Longtailed) Wagtail, Striped Pipit, Wood Pipit, Bertrand’s Weaver, Southern Masked‑Weaver, Forest Weaver, Yellow Bishop (Yellowrumped Widow), Olive Sunbird, Amethyst (Black) Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, African Citril.

Birds we did not see:

Crowned Hawk‑Eagle, Bar‑tailed Trogon, Spotted Ground‑Thrush, Orange Ground‑Thrush, Green‑headed Oriole, Red‑faced Crimsonwing.

LENGWE NATIONAL PARK

Accommodation: a chalet at the entrance of the park. You have to bring your own food and drink .The very friendly people at the main gate have an excellent cook.

Lengwe NP is a dense deciduous thicket park in the lower Shire Valley and is quite different from the other parks. It is a hot and dusty park, but you can find a wide variety of species here scarcely found elsewhere. During the time we were there, there was no water in the park, except in the four artificial waterholes.

Only the hide near the entrance was in excellent condition, the other hides were in a very bad shape.

Birds seen:

Intermediate Egret, Grey Heron, Black‑headed Heron, Great Egret, Cattle Egret, Hamerkop, Hadada Ibis, African Openbill, Woolly‑necked Stork, Marabou Stork, Black‑shouldered Kite, African Fish‑Eagle, Hooded Vulture, White‑backed Vulture, (Western) Banded Snake‑Eagle, Bateleur, African Harrier‑Hawk (Gymnogene), Lizard Buzzard, African Goshawk, Tawny Eagle, Long‑crested Eagle, Lanner Falcon, Helmeted Guineafowl, Bronze‑winged Courser, Laughing Dove, Ring-necked Dove (Cape Turtle Dove), Red‑eyed Dove, Emerald-Spotted Wood-Dove (Greenspotted Dove), Tambourine Dove, Brown‑headed Parrot, Lilian’s Lovebird, Speckled Mousebird, Grey Go‑away‑bird, Barred Long‑tailed Cuckoo, Burchell's Coucal, Fiery‑necked Nightjar, Square‑tailed (Mozambique) Nightjar, African Palm‑Swift, Malachite Kingbird, Brown‑hooded Kingfisher, Striped Kingfisher, Pied Kingfisher, Little Bee‑eater, Boehm’s Bee‑eater, Lilac‑breasted Roller, African Hoopoe, Green (Redbilled) Woodhoopoe, Common (Greater) Scimitar-bill, Red‑billed Hornbill, Southern Yellow‑billed Hornbill, Crowned Hornbill, African Grey Hornbill, Trumpeter Hornbill, Southern Ground‑Hornbill, Crested Barbet, Golden‑tailed Woodpecker, Green‑backed (Little Spotted) Woodpecker, Cardinal woodpecker, Bearded Woodpecker, Livingstone’s Flycatcher, African Paradise‑Flycatcher, Square‑tailed Drongo, Fork‑tailed Drongo, Pied Crow, African Golden‑Oriole, White‑breasted Cuckoo‑Shrike, Black Cuckoo‑Shrike, Common Fiscal, Brubru, Black‑backed Puffback, Tropical Boubou, (Orange-) Sulphur‑breasted Bushshrike, White Helmetshrike, Retz’s (Redbilled) Helmetshrike, Chinspot Batis, Southern Blue‑eared Glossy‑Starling, Southern Black‑Flycatcher, African Dusky Flycatcher, Red‑capped Robin‑Chat, Wire‑tailed Swallow, Common Bulbul, Yellow‑bellied Greenbul, Placid Greenbul, Grey‑olive Greenbul, Eastern (Yellowspotted) Nicator, African Yellow White‑eye, Rattling Cisticola, Tawny‑flanked Prinia, Yellow‑breasted Apalis, Grey‑backed Camaroptera, Southern Black‑Tit, Grey‑headed Sparrow, Yellow‑throated Petronia, Green‑winged Pytilia (Melba Finch), Blue‑breasted Cordonblue (Blue Waxbill), Bronze Mannikin, African Pied Wagtail, White‑browed Sparrow‑Weaver, Forest Weaver, Red‑headed Weaver, Red‑billed Quelea, Collared Sunbird, Amethyst (Black) Sunbird, Variable (Yellowbellied) Sunbird, White‑breasted Sunbird, Yellow-fronted (Yelloweyed) Canary, Cabanis’ Bunting.

Birds we did not see:

Madagascar Squacco‑Heron, Black‑and‑white Shrike‑Flycatcher, Ruwenzori Batis.