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A Report from birdtours.co.uk

SE Peru, May 8-June 1, 2000,

Garry George

Participants:

Garry George, Joseph Brooks, Ed Craven (east slope and lowlands only)

Guides:


Colin Bushell for Manu Expeditions (main trip), Barry Walker for Manu Expeditions (extension) http://www.manuexpeditions.com

References:


Handbook of Birds of the World (some plates only), Lynx Edicions
Birds of South America Vol. I and II, Ridgely & Tudor, University of Texas Press
Birds of Columbia, Hilty, Brown and Tudor, Princeton University Press

Itinerary:


Day 1-LA-LIMA
Day 2-LIMA-Cusco, Huacarpay Lakes,  (3020m) surface to Sacred Valley
Day 3,4-Abra Malaga-(4000m+) and Quillabamba Road(to 3200m)
Day 5-Cusco to Manu Road to Pillahuata (2600m) with stops in Huancarani, Paucartambo, Tres Cruces, upper Mirador on Manu Road, overnight camping in Pillahuata 
Day 6-Manu Road from Pillahuata to San Pedro y Union Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge (1500m)
Day 7,8-San Pedro y Union Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge area (1500m)
Day 9-San Pedo y Union to Atalya w/ stops at Patria, Pilcopata, boat to Amazonia Lodge
Day 10-Boat to Atalaya, birding on road to Pilcopata (550m-900m)
Day 11,12-Amanazonia Lodge 
Day 13-Boat ride on Madre de Dios River to Manu Wildlife Center (7 hours)
Day 14-9-Manu Wildlife Center area
Day 20-afternoon flight from Boca Manu to Cusco
EXTENSION
Day 21-flight to Lima, Lomas de Lanchay (300m)
Day 22-Santa Eulalia Road above Huanico (2,500-3,000m)
Day 23-Marcopomacocha (4500m+)
Day 24-Lima to Pucusana with stops at Villa Marshes, San Pedro (sea level)
Day 25-Lima-LA

Background and Overview:

There are six habitat zones in Andean South America:

Polylepis forest above 3500m with polylepis trees
Puna from 3500m up
Temperate 2500-3500m
Subtropical 1500-2500m
Upper Tropical  500-1500m
Tropical  0-500m

The unique thing about the itinerary of this trip was the ability to spend time in all the habitat zones. The Manu Road from Cusco to Atalaya travels through all of the zones (except Polylepis forest)with prolonged stops at different elevations.

We spent one morning at Abra Malaga pass outside Cusco in Polylepis forest. This is the most critically endangered habitat in South America. There is a program of reforestation of this area initiated by Gunnar Engblom, Gregorio Ferro Meza and Constantino Aucca Chutas detailed on Mr. Engblom's website for his tour company Kolibri Expeditions. (http://netaccessperu.net/kolibri/ then select "Abra Malaga" from the bottom of the left frame). A donation to this valuable program would surely be welcome.

Three days in the stunted growth of the high Andes puna were spent. Two mornings were below and between the polylepis forest patches at Abra Malaga near Cusco and a day at Marcopomachocha, the highest altitude at over 4600 meters (just over 15,000 ft) five hours drive north from Lima where we hiked in bogs and ponds just below the snow line. Both expeditions yielded the rarest species.

The Temperate zone encompassing the treeline of both slopes were reached in drives from Cusco or Lima. The initial portion of the drive down Manu Road was especially interesting as the dry brown high altitude Puna and Temperate zones gave way to cloud forest. This was the most dramatic change in species of plants, mammals and birds. We began to see the first wild mammals here. Almost all the observations in this zone were made from the road which thankfully was not well travelled, but the trail behind Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge right on the transition between Subtropical and Upper Tropical zones was very productive and interesting. I would have liked to have penetrated the forest more in that area.

Diversity of bird, mammal, insect and plant species was greatest in the Tropical lowland humid forest at the base of the east slope on the western edge of the Amazon basin along the Madre de Dios River where we spent the most time just outside of Manu National Park, the largest park in South America. The environment is absolutely incredible. Memorable were the sunsets over the river, the flights of hundreds of Sand-colored Nightjars in the sunset light taking off from their roost on the river island, the towering ceiba trees with strangler figs and lianas, the sounds of the forest and the dreams while sleeping in it, the night at the tapir lick, the long boat rides at the end of the day. It was great to wake up in the forest instead of travelling to it and it was great to be free of vehicles. But the pressure of human settlers is taking it's toll on this habitat around Manu Wildlife Center. There used to be four Giant Otters at Cocha Blanco in the oxbow lake but now there are three. One female was killed and her two pups stolen by poachers who then sold them at the market in Puerto Maldonaldo. Luckily, the pups were bought by members of SelvaSur who are trying to conserve the area. They reintroduced the two pups successfully to another female in another lake. We fell in love with an orphaned four-month old red howler monkey named Arturo who was in residence at Manu Wildlife Center. His mother was shot for food. Cocha Nuevo and Cocha Comungo near Manu Wildlife Center are currently being developed for eco-tourism and the trails have been cleared and camping platforms built. There is pressure inside Manu National Park from settlers and is probably the park's biggest problem.

On the west slope, we spent two days in coastal habitat around the arid desert of Lima. The arid lomas with cactus and rock that are moistened by the fog from the ocean were particularly interesting. We spent a few hours on the Pacific Ocean itself looking for pelagic and coastal species.

We chose Manu Expeditions for Barry Walker's long experience and reputation in the region and booked a private tour for three of us, costing just over $200/day each for everything including guide, internal flights, ground transportation and airport transfers, drivers, meals, boat rides and accommodations including tents and cook in one location. Colin Bushell was provided by Manu Expeditions as our guide. In addition to his work for Manu Expeditions, Colin also has his own company Toucan Tours (http://www.netcomuk.co.uk/~toucan/toucan.htm) e-mail: bush-bird@toucan66.freeserve.co.uk. We joined friends in Lima for an extension to Santa Eulalia road and Marcopomacocha with Barry Walker as guide. Airfare from LA on Continental with a stop in Houston cost around $600/person round trip. Outfitting throughout was exceptional. We had a six passenger van or ten passenger luxury bus with plenty of space for luggage in the back and competent, helpful, polite drivers and boat men. Tipping was appreciated. The flight from Boca Manu back to Cusco was a white knuckler but only 45 minutes in duration. The accommodations were exceptional as was the food.

This was our sixth trip to South America and our fifth to Amazonia.

Results:

542 species of birds with almost 200 new. Outstanding looks at 4 species of Tinamou, rare Humboldt Penguin, Crested Duck, Razor-billed Currasow, Pale-winged Trumpeter and Diademed Sandpiper-plover, 3 species of Pygmy-owl, 43 species of hummingbird (5 endemic), 49 species of Furnarid (14 endemic) and critically endangered Royal Cinclodes (photographed), 37 species of Antbird (2 endemic), 74 species of flycatcher (2 endemic), 1 endemic wren, 48 species of Tanager, 35 species of finch (1 endemic) and 5 species of Oropendola.
8 species of primates including rare Emperor Tamarin, Woolley Monkey, Night Monkey.
4 species of other wild mammals including Brazilian tapir, Giant Otter, Tamandaua (anteater) and red Brocket Deer.

Hindsight:

September through November are the popular months for this route. May was not the best time for the Subtropical and Tropical locations.It was the end of the rainy season and many birds were in post-breeding moult and not very active or vocal. Tapes were not that productive for some species. Juvenile birds were numerous. As a joke, we thought SE Peru in May might make a good workshop for tape dependent guides or a great fundraiser called the May Challenge.

The weather was weird. We hit a friaje (cold front) for a week that extended from San Pedro area on the Manu Road down through the first day at Manu Wildlife Center. During this time it was cold and rainy, and neither insects nor birds were moving. Sometimes four or five hours would go by with only one or two species seen. Our seven hour boat ride down the Madre de Dios River was freezing, and we wore knit caps, wool gloves and three layers of clothing. We lost a morning on the mirador just above Atalaya to rain and cold so we missed the streams of macaws coming from their roosts in the morning especially the endemic Blue-headed Macaw usually seen at that site. Flycatchers and antbirds were in particularly worn plumage. We theorized that during moult birds must be particularly vulnerable to energy loss as well as predators and therefore pretty much stayed put, but we have no scientific evidence to support our theory. I would be interested in any studies of behavior of neo-tropical birds during post-breeding moult if there are any.

There were no medical emergencies. Altitude sickness in Cusco, Abra Malaga and Marcopomacocha was a problem for some who couldn't take prophylaxis medication due to allergic reactions. We didn't take any anti-malarial drugs and so far have no botflies or leishmaniasis lesions although we talked about both whenever we had the opportunity. Barry Walker, who has the flesh-eating leishmaniasis and the scar to prove it believes it is carried by a transparent fly with red eyes that dances on the skin before biting. He believes the fly is crepuscular in the forest canopy and most easily contracted in a canopy tower at sunrise or sunset. There was some discussion as to whether repeated exposure might be a factor. Covering skin with fabric and repellent is the best preventative it seems. The food was amazing at all locations and we experienced no intestinal distress. Few snakes were seen although we asked questions and told stories about bushmaster and fer-de-lance encounters. We were told that both Amazonia Lodge and Manu Wildlife Center now have anti-venom. It would definitely pay to research snakebite emergency procedures in advance of a trip here with a qualified doctor including a rehearsal of an allergy test of the antivenom and intravenous injection procedures. A clean hypodermic needle might also be handy as well as knowledge of the quickest evacuation procedure to a clean hospital in Cusco,Lima,Miami or Houston.

In hindsight, I would have booked two or three nights in Manu National Park Lodge inside the park and three or four nights at Manu Wildlife Center outside the park instead of seven nights at Manu Wildlife Center. There is a better chance to see Jaguar drinking at the river or sunning on a log hanging over the river during the long boat ride into and out of the park, and Black-faced Cotinga and Rufous-fronted Antthrush are fairly common around Manu Lodge but rare and difficult near Manu Wildlife Center. Rufous-vented Ground-cuckoo is only possible at Pakitza which requires camping and an expedition from Manu Lodge. The cuckoo seen on the Jeep track at Amazonia Lodge in 1997 hasn't been seen since, and there are no records of the cuckoo from Manu Wildlife Center. When visiting Abra Malaga we stayed in Yucay in the Sacred Valley and drove long trips in the morning and evening. The Sacred Valley was interesting and the cliff carvings were amazing, but the drives were almost three hours to and from Quillabamba Road and Abra Malaga and I would have preferred camping at least one night.

The most unexpected surprise of the entire trip for me was the diversity of Furnarids in this area. Austral migrant terrestrial species were just arriving so Ground-Tryants were tough to sort out in the high altitudes and the variety of rare and endemic Miners, Cinclodes, Canasteros and Earthcreepers at the higher altitudes and Peruvian Recurvebill, Spinetails, Foliage-gleaners and Xenops' in the subtropical and tropical forest mid-canopy and canopy were a lot more fascinating than I had predicted from my study of these mostly brown birds prior to the trip. Painted plates can't really communicate sounds and behaviors and Furnarids seemed unaffected by the season or weather and firmly established in all habitat. Each genus and species seemed to have some distinctive behavior or field mark that really set it apart.,  This trip opened my eyes to Furnarids and took my attention away from my usual obssession with Antbirds.

Locations and Sightings
*specialty of that location
+endemic
**rare and endangered
H heard only

Huacarpay Lakes,  (3020m)

A short drive from and a lower altitude than Cusco, Huacarpay Lakes is an easy first day of birding and a great way to acclimate especially to the altitude after the flights to Lima and Cusco. We drove east on Urcos Road to the puna habitat of rocky sandy brown hills dotted with cactus and flowering nicotina,lakes bordered by reeds and grasses,dry fields with small patches of agriculture here and there tended by old women with dry,wrinkled faces and red-purple ponchos. Did the hummers mistake them for huge flowers?,  Endemic Rusty-fronted Canastero stayed close to the ground running between clumps of grasse on the hillside where Bearded Helmetcrests feed on the nicotina blooms. Our first Ground-tyrants of the trip were spotted in the open dried dirt edges between the reeds and the road. Cinereous Harrier started hunting the grasses just before dusk. We missed Streak-fronted Thornbird, only hearing it once up the hillside but we did get to investigate an abandoned nest. We had poor looks at Many-colored Rush-Tyrant here but caught up with it at Villa Marshes near Lima for great looks later in the trip. Plumbeous Rail were numerous and easy to see when they feed near the reeds or preened at the water's edge. They were certainly easy to hear. Near the lake were small ponds here and there with Grebe, Teal and Ibis.

White-tufted Grebe, Rollandia rolland
Snowy Egret,  Egretta thula
Black-crowned Night-Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax
Puna Ibis,  Plegadis ridgwayi
Speckled Teal, Anas flavirostris
(the yellow-billed,light breasted ssp.oxyptera and not the dark-billed, dark breasted ssp.andium sometimes called Andean Teal that we were used to in Ecuador)
Yellow-billed Pintail,  Anas georgica
Puna Teal,  Anas puna
Cinnamon Teal, Anas cyanoptera
Cinereous Harrier, Circus cinereus
American Kestrel,  Falco sparverius
Plumbeous Rail,  Pardirallus sanguinolentus
Common Moorhen,  Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot, Fulica ardesiaca
Andean Lapwing,  Vanellus resplendens
Greater Yellowlegs, Tringa melanoleuca
Andean Gull,  Larus serranus
Spot-winged Pigeon ,Columba maculosa
Eared Dove, Zenaida auriculata
Bare-faced Ground-Dove, Metriopelia ceciliae
Black-winged Ground-Dove,  Metriopelia melanoptera
Sparkling Violet-ear,Colibri coruscans
White-bellied Hummingbird, Leucippus chionogaster
Giant Hummingbird, Patagona gigas
*Bearded Mountaineer,Oreonympha nobilis
Andean Flicker,  Colaptes rupicola
Wren-like Rushbird, Phleocryptes melanops
+*Rusty-fronted Canastero, Asthenes ottonis
H-Streak-fronted Thornbird ,  Phacellodomus striaticeps
White-crested Elaenia,  Elaenia albiceps
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant,  Anairetes flavirostris
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant,  Tachuris rubrigastra
White-browed Chat-Tyrant,  Ochthoeca leucophrys
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Rufous-naped Ground-Tyrant,  Muscisaxicola rufivertex
Andean Negrito,  Lessonia oreas
House Wren, Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush,  Turdus chiguanco
Hooded Siskin, Carduelis magellanica
Cinereous Conebill,Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Thraupis bonariensis
Peruvian Sierra-Finch,  Phrygilus punensis
Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch, Phrygilus plebejus
Band-tailed Seedeater,  Catamenia analis
Grassland Yellow-Finch, Sicalis luteola
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch,  Sicalis uropygialis
Greenish Yellow-Finch,  Sicalis olivascens
Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis
Golden-billed Saltator, Saltator aurantiirostris
Yellow-winged Blackbird, Agelaius thilius

Abra Malaga (3800m+)
We stayed in Yucay in the Sacred Valley but it would have been more convenient to camp on the Quillabamba Road and avoid the three hour drive back and forth at least one night. Abra Malaga was the only location with accessible polylepis forest on the trip,and with the rare and endangered species that live in it. There is a house right on the road at the top of the pass with a large pile of polylepis firewood outside. My hope was that someday they would find eucalyptus just as good or better. Our first assault up the ridge to the right of the road was aborted when Colin hit the crest and found that there was no inhabitable forest left in that location. It had changed that much in one year. The next morning we started up the ridge before the house and to the left of the road as you ascend. It was around 8 a.m. We crested the ridge after 30 minutes of breathless hiking and decided to try the patch of polylepis to our right and up the valley away from the road, a further hike of about 45 more minutes and the highest patch of polylepis that we could see in the pass. It would limit our energy to explore the top of the second patch of polylepis further down the valley to the road, but it would be our only chance to see the rare and critically endangered (and formerly endemic until a recent sighting in Bolivia) Royal Cinclodes. Colin hadn't seen the bird in his previous attempts over the last two years. Gunnar Engblom, who lives in Peru and operates Kolibri Expeditions has written a excellent paper and proposal to study Royal Cinclodes and published it on his website http://netaccessperu.net/kolibri/ (choose "Royal Cinclodes" under Research at the bottom of the left frame).

As we made our way into the patch we saw that many of the limbs of the polylepis trees had been cut as if pruned, allowing a lot of light on to the moss cover below. It wouldn't be long before the moss-cover would dry up. Just above the cut-over patch Colin played a tape of the Cinclodes, and we couldn't believe our amazing fortune as we saw this rare bird perched thirty feet above us in a polylepis tree, allowing me to crawl slowly up the rocks and moss slowly to get a photograph. The bird flew higher and back into the forest and we found it again on the side of the trail on the ground tossing moss-cover in search of invertebrates. Other than the common Bar-winged Cinclodes it was the only bird we saw for the hour or so that we explored this patch of polylepis.

We hiked over an hour parallel to but lower than the crest of the ridge to the next patch of polylepis, some replanted as part of a valuable program started by Gunnar Engblom, Gregorio Ferro Meza and Constantino Aucca Chutas and funded in part by donations from birders. Read more on this program at http://netaccessperu.net/kolibri/ click "Abra Malaga" under Research at the bottom of the left frame.

We spent two hours hiking down and towards the road in this patch of polylepis, getting good looks at the rare, endemic White-browed Tit-spinetail, and several looks at a pair of Tawny Tit-Spinetails. We just missed an Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant seen by Colin. A big miss was Stripe-headed Antpitta which we never heard nor saw although we combed the scree and polylepis treeline for the two hours we were there.

In the polylepis :

Andean Hillstar, Oreotrochilus estella
Bar-winged Cinclodes,Cinclodes fuscus
***Royal Cinclodes, Cinclodes aricomae
+***White-browed Tit-Spinetail, Leptasthenura xenothorax
*Tawny Tit-Spinetail,Leptasthenura yanacensis
Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrant  ,Anairetes alpinus
*D'Orbigny's Chat-Tyrant,  Ochthoeca oenanthoides
Thick-billed Siskin,  Carduelis crassirostris
Tit-like Dacnis, Xenodacnis parina
Slaty Finch,  Haplospiza rustica

In the puna around and below the polylepis and above Quillabamba Road:

Speckled Teal, Anas flavirostris
Variable Hawk, Buteo polyosoma
+White-tufted Sunbeam,  Aglaeactis castelnaudii
Slender-billed Miner,Geositta tenuirostris
+Creamy-crested Spinetail, Cranioleuca albicapilla
Rufous-webbed Tyrant   ,  Polioxolmis rufipennis
Puna Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola juninensis
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola cinerea
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola flavinucha
H-Puna Tapaculo    ,  Scytalopus simonsi
Paramo Pipit, Anthus bogotensis
Thick-billed Siskin,  Carduelis crassirostris
Tit-like Dacnis, Xenodacnis parina
Peruvian Sierra-Finch,  Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Phrygilus unicolor
Bright-rumped Yellow-finch  ,  Sicalis uropygialis

Quillabamba Road (cloud forest) (3800-3200m)

The cloud forest of Quillabamba Road and the lower altitude was a relief after the long morning at Abra Malaga. Species that were usually common and vocal during September to November were quiet and hard to find in May. We missed +Parodi's Hemispingus entirely, not seeing or hearing it. Patches of cloud forest could be explored from the road but there were big areas where it looked like there had been fires. We found one entire hillside of one species of cycad palm. The tanagers and the epiphyte and moss-covered trees reminded us that we were back in the cloud forest of South America.

White-throated Hawk,  Buteo albigula
Mountain Caracara, Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Band-tailed Pigeon, Columba fasciata
Andean Parakeet, Bolborhynchus orbygnesius
Band-winged Nightjar,Caprimulgus longirostris
Sparkling Violet-ear,Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird, Patagona gigas
Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Eriocnemis luciani
Tyrian Metaltail,  Metallura tyrianthina
Scaled Metaltail,  Metallura aeneocauda
Blue-mantled Thornbill, Chalcostigma stanleyi
+Marcapata Spinetail,Cranioleuca marcapatae
+Puna Thistletail, Schizoeaca helleri
Cordilleran Canastero,  Asthenes modesta
Streak-throated Canastero, Asthenes humilis
Line-fronted Canastero, Asthenes urubambensis
Pearled Treerunner, Margarornis squamiger
H-Diademed Tapaculo    ,  Scytalopus schulenbergi
Red-crested Cotinga,  Ampelion rubrocristata
White-throated Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochraceous-breasted Flycatcher, Myiophobus ochraceiventris
Cinnamon Flycatcher,  Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant, Ochthoeca rufipectoralis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant,  Ochthoeca fumicolor
Red-rumped Bush-Tyrant, Cnemarchus erythropygius
Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant,  Agriornis montana
Brown-bellied Swallow,  Notiochelidon murina
+Inca Wren, Thryothorus eisenmanni
House Wren, Troglodytes aedon
Mountain Wren, Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush, Turdus fuscater
Spectacled Redstart,  Myioborus melanocephalus
White-browed Conebill,  Conirostrum ferrugineiventre
Three-striped Hemispingus, Hemispingus trifasciatus
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Anisognathus igniventris
*Golden-collared Tanager,  Iridosornis jelskii
*Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager,  Delothraupis castaneoventris
Plain-colored Seedeater, Catamenia inornata
Moustached Flowerpiercer,  Diglossa mystacalis
Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Diglossa brunneiventris
Masked Flowerpiercer,Diglossopis cyanea
Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis

Manu Road from Cusco to Pillahuata (3300m-2600m)

We took off from Cusco in the dark and saw sunrise in the Andes just as we began our descent into the agricultural valley between Cusco and Tres Cruces. Not much habitat left in the valley which made spotting birds from the bus fairly easy. We stopped and made breakfast near the small village of Huancarani and found a cooperative male +Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch. Two Andean Lapwing foraged on the ground next to our breakfast site. Agricultural fields in this area were filled with amaranth which produces the grain quinoa,and a lot of blue lupine. I remembered that I had eaten a dish of beans called "cho cho" at San Isidro ranch in Ecuador, and Carmen had explained to me that they were the beans of a certain species of lupine which had to be soaked for two days to leech out the toxins. I wondered if these fields produced beans not cut flowers. There was one small valley of native habitat and trees after the agricutural fields in a curve in the road and we stopped there. Colin found a pair of +Creamy-crested Spinetail and soon the entire hillside of them were calling. A small stream and waterfall went beneath the road and we looked down on the trees below. I spotted an interesting bird in a large leaf light bark mature tree kind of like and alder in the shade below us and soon we had identified a female Crested Becard, a first sighting for this area. We stopped in the river town of Paucartambo to have a walk and watch Brown-bellied Swallows over the river. Tres Cruces is on the peak of the ridge and the exact spot where Manu National Park begins. It is also the beginning of unbroken forest which is contiguous down to the Madre de Dios River. We walked the road near a Tunnel in cloud forest and were delighted by a long flyover of eight Golden-plumed Parakeet. We stopped at a mirador that overlooked the entire east slope and marvelled at the view of the road that would take us to Amazonia. At dusk, we found two female Swallow-tailed Nightjars with our spotlights for close looks. We heard that an Andean Potoo had been seen here, but no luck for us. We ended the day at Pillahuata and camped overnight in a building beside the road.


Variable Hawk, Buteo polyosoma
Mountain Caracara, Phalcoboenus megalopterus
American Kestrel,  Falco sparverius
Andean Guan,  Penelope montagnii
Andean Lapwing , Vanellus resplendens
Band-tailed Pigeon, Columba fasciata
Golden-plumed Parakeet, Leptosittaca branickii
Swallow-tailed Nightjar, Uropsalis segmentata
White-collared Swift, Streptoprocne zonaris
Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Coeligena violifer
Amethyst-throated Sunangel,  Heliangelus amethysticollis
Tyrian Metaltail,  Metallura tyrianthina
Rufous-capped Thornbill, Chalcostigma ruficeps
Long-tailed Sylph, Aglaiocercus kingi
Golden-headed Quetzal,  Pharomachrus auriceps
Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan,  Andigena hypoglauca
Crimson-mantled Woodpecker,  Piculus rivolii
Common Miner,Geositta cunicularia
Bar-winged Cinclodes,Cinclodes fuscus
+*Creamy-crested Spinetail,  Cranioleuca albicapilla
Red-crested Cotinga,  Ampelion rubrocristat
Barred Fruiteater,Pipreola arcuata
Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Elaenia flavogaster
Sierran Elaenia, Elaenia pallatangae
Torrent Tyrannulet, Serpophaga cinerea
+Inca Flycatcher,  Leptopogon taczanowskii
White-throated Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus leucophrys
Black-throated Tody-Tyrant,  Hemitriccus granadensis
Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant,  Ochthoeca fumicolor
Puna Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola juninensis
Crested Becard,  Pachyramphus validus
Brown-bellied Swallow,  Notiochelidon murina
Fulvous Wren, Cinnycerthia fulva
Mountain Wren, Troglodytes solstitialis
Chiguanco Thrush,Turdus chiguanco
Great Thrush, Turdus fuscater
Hooded Siskin, Carduelis magellanica
Spectacled Redstart,  Myioborus melanocephalus
Citrine Warbler, Basileuterus luteoviridis
Cinereous Conebill, Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-capped Tanager,  Thraupis cyanocephala
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Anisognathus igniventris
Golden-collared Tanager, Iridosornis jelskii
Blue-and-black Tanager, Tangara vassorii
Peruvian Sierra-Finch,  Phrygilus punensis
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Phrygilus unicolor
+***Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch,  Poospiza caesar
Band-tailed Seedeater,  Catamenia analis
Moustached Flowerpiercer,  Diglossa mystacalis
Masked Flowerpiercer,Diglossopis cyanea
Black-faced Brush-Finch, Atlapetes melanolaemus
(an anticipated split from Rufous-naped Brush-Finch)
Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis

Manu Rd from Pillahuata to San Pedro 2600-1500m


I felt guilty for waking everyone while trying to get outside in the middle of the night to answer nature's calling. But once outside I stood in awe of black sky with a full moon and shooting stars. The crisp cool air was invigorating and I relished the time I spent by myself. Nature was calling in a different way. A few hours later after breakfast we looked for Red-and-white Antpitta just behind the latrines. We stood on the hill looking down at the creek below and played the tape. Edward saw the bird run across the opening like a thrush on a mission but no one else got even a glimpse. Colin played the tape again. While we were looking down for the bird I looked to the right and left as I usually do and spotted the white breast and the red shoulder and wing. The bird was perched about twelve feet to our right about six inches off the ground on a limb, facing the same direction as we were as if to say "what the hell are you looking at?",  It flushed before anyone else got on it. We spent twenty minutes listening to a bird which never became visible and finally saw a pair run across the trail a little further down the road behind the building. There seemed to be three or four pair calling along the stream in the valley.
, As we worked out way down the road in the cloud forest, we heard a Yungas Pygmy-owl calling. It was close. We tried to find it in the epiphyte loaded trees by focusing on the clump of foliage in the middle of a tree where the hummingbirds were mobbing. No luck. I stepped away about twenty feet up the road for a better view and found the owl sitting in the open on a limb not even close to the mobbing activity. Were the hummingbirds guessing? Was it some kind of diversionary tactic? Were they wisely keeping their distance? I made a note for the future to not always rely on mobbing hummingbirds for location of an owl.
,  As we descended into the valley of the San Pedro area and the Cock-of-the-Rock lodge the cloud forest became a lot more moist. It was almost as if we had rounded a bend into another world. We were looking for White-eared Solitaire, which we never heard or saw, and happened upon Blue-banded Toucanet. Violent movement in the trees behind turned out not to be a wind storm but a troop of rare Common Wooly Monkey, our first wild mammal. We heard Cocks-of-the-Rock displaying as we passed two leks between Cloud Forest Lodge and Cock-of-the-Rock lodge, and saw a female flying over the road. We were to stay three nights in this area.

White Hawk, Leucopternis albicollis
White-rumped Hawk, Buteo leucorrhous
Black-and-chestnut Eagle,  Oroaetus isidori
Andean Guan,  Penelope montagnii
Scaly-naped Parrot, Amazona mercenaria
Squirrel Cuckoo, Piaya cayana
*Yungas Pygmy-Owl, Glaucidium bolivianum
Chestnut-collared Swift, Streptoprocne rutila
Green Violet-ear,Colibri thalassinus
Golden-tailed Sapphire, Chrysuronia oenone
Speckled Hummingbird,Adelomyia melanogenys
Gould's Inca, Coeligena inca
Long-tailed Sylph, Aglaiocercus kingi
Masked Trogon, Trogon personatus
*Blue-banded Toucanet,  Aulacorhynchus coeruleicinctis
Azara's Spinetail, Synallaxis azarae
Spotted Barbtail,  Premnoplex brunnescens
Pearled Treerunner, Margarornis squamiger
Streaked Tuftedcheek,Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii
Striped Treehunter, Thripadectes holostictus
Montane Woodcreeper,  Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
+*Red-and-white Antpitta,  Grallaria erythroleuca
*Andean Cock-of-the-rock,  Rupicola peruviana
White-throated Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus leucophrys
White-banded Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus stictopterus
Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, Todirostrum plumbeiceps
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus
Handsome Flycatcher,  Myiophobus pulcher
Cinnamon Flycatcher,  Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea
Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant,Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris
Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Myiarchus tuberculifer
Barred Becard, Pachyramphus versicolor
Blue-and-white Swallow, Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
White-capped Dipper,Cinclus leucocephalus
Fulvous Wren, Cinnycerthia fulva
Mountain Wren, Troglodytes solstitialis
Great Thrush, Turdus fuscater
Green Jay,  Cyanocorax yncas
*White-collared Jay,  Cyanolyca viridicyana
Slate-throated Redstart, Myioborus miniatus
Spectacled Redstart,  Myioborus melanocephalus
Pale-legged Warbler,  Basileuterus signatus
Citrine Warbler ,Basileuterus luteoviridis
Capped Conebill, Conirostrum albifrons
Grass-green Tanager,  Chlorornis riefferii
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager, Chlorospingus flavigularis
Gray-hooded Bush-Tanager,  Cnemoscopus rubrirostris
Black-capped Hemispingus,  Hemispingus atropileus
Superciliaried Hemispingus,  Hemispingus superciliaris
Black-eared Hemispingus, Hemispingus melanotis
*Rust-and-yellow Tanager,Thlypopsis ruficeps
Blue-capped Tanager,  Thraupis cyanocephala
Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Buthraupis montana
Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Anisognathus igniventris
Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager, Anisognathus somptuosus
Golden-collared Tanager, Iridosornis jelskii
Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, Delothraupis castaneoventris
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Blue-and-black Tanager, Tangara vassorii
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer, Diglossopis glauca
Masked Flowerpiercer,Diglossopis cyanea
Black-faced Brush-Finch, Atlapetes melanolaemus
Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis
Black-backed Grosbeak, Pheucticus aureoventris
Mountain Cacique,  Cacicus chrysonotus
Dusky-green Oropendola, Psarocolius atrovirens

Manu Road and San Pedro Area (Cock of the Rock Lodge) 1500m
Up and down the road we walked stopping for feeding flocks and scouring the river for Torrent Ducks. The Cock-of-the-Rock lodge www.inkanatura.com had hummingbird feeders which were productive for Violet-fronted Brilliants at close range and a feeding platform in the clearing which brought Silver-beak Tanagers and Brown Capuchin Monkey for close viewing. Blooming trees in the clearing brought other hummers and an occasional feeding flock. One flock had a male and female Versicolored Barbet and was the only time we saw the bird. Especially productive was the new trail behind the lodge which winds around and down to and along the river. We found Slaty Gnateater here, the female visible with the long rufous eye stripe, and spent an hour with a Chestnut-breasted Wren which zipped from spot to spot allowing brief looks here and there. The song of this wren may be better than the song of Musician Wren. Magnificent. We found a lek of Yungas Manakin and got good looks at the displaying males. Later we were told by one of the volunteers studying primates at Manu Wildlife Center that he had seen a flock of five Olive Finches on this trail for several days in a row!
We watched in the valley after 10 a.m. for a Solitary Eagle that is frequently seen soaring here but found a pair of Black Hawk-Eagle. We spent one morning at the Cock-of-the-Rock lek and even though we've seen these birds a few times the display behaviour and sounds never fail to impress.
It was here that a cold front from Patagonia called a friaje came into the entire area and put a damper on the birds. We lost a morning to rain and had showers on and off, and the temperature dropped considerably. It would stay with us for six days making birding challenging. One day we spent three hours seeing only Yellow-throated Bush-Tanagers.
, Feeding flocks especially in the morning were very productive, even yielding a migrant Andean Slaty-thrush. Common in the flocks were birds like Paradise Tanager, Marble-faced Bristle-tyrant, Blue Dacnis, Red-eyed Vireo, Three-striped Warbler, Slate-throated Redstart and Pearled Treerunner, the possible leader. We had a Dusky-capped Greenlet at eye level, a blessing from this bird of the high canopy. We walked the road below the lodge seeing our first Oropendolas of the trip, a sure sign that we were heading into the Tropical zone. Cerulean-capped Manakin, a specialty of this area, was heard only once by Colin.

Fasciated Tiger-Heron,  Tigrisoma fasciatum
Torrent Duck, Merganetta armata
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
Black Hawk-Eagle,  Spizaetus tyrannus
Speckled Chachalaca,  Ortalis guttata
Scaly-naped Parrot, Amazona mercenaria
Lyre-tailed Nightjar,Uropsalis lyra
Violet-fronted Brilliant,  Heliodoxa leadbeateri
Booted Racket-tail, Ocreatus underwoodii
Long-tailed Sylph, Aglaiocercus kingi
*Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Versicolored Barbet,  Eubucco versicolor
Line-cheeked Spinetail, Cranioleuca antisiensis
Spotted Barbtail,  Premnoplex brunnescens
Pearled Treerunner, Margarornis squamiger
Montane Foliage-gleaner, Anabacerthia striaticollis
Black-billed Treehunter, Thripadectes melanorhynchus
Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Philydor rufus
Black-banded Woodcreeper,  Dendrocolaptes picumnus
Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Olive-backed Woodcreeper,  Xiphorhynchus triangularis
Montane Woodcreeper,  Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger
Red-billed Scythebill,  Campylorhamphus trochilirostris
Stripe-chested Antwren ,Myrmotherula longicauda
Yellow-breasted Antwren, Herpsilochmus axillaris
Black Antbird, Cercomacra serva
Slaty Gnateater, Conopophaga ardesiaca
White-crowned Tapaculo    ,  Scytalopus atratus
*Andean Cock-of-the-rock,  Rupicola peruviana
*Yungas Manakin, Chiroxiphia boliviana
Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Elaenia flavogaster
Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Leptopogon superciliaris
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Phylloscartes ophthalmicus
Bolivian Tyrannulet,  Zimmerius bolivianus
White-throated Tyrannulet, Mecocerculus leucophrys
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant,  Lophotriccus pileatus
Fulvous-breasted Flatbill, Rhynchocyclus fulvipectus
Smoke-colored Pewee,  Contopus fumigatus
Dusky-capped Flycatcher, Myiarchus tuberculifer
Social Flycatcher, Myiozetetes similis
Blue-and-white Swallow, Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
Southern Rough-winged Swallow,  Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
White-capped Dipper,  Cinclus leucocephalus
Chestnut-breasted Wren, Cyphorhinus thoracicus
Andean Slaty-Thrush,  Turdus nigriceps
Brown-capped Vireo, Vireo leucophrys
Dusky-capped Greenlet,  Hylophilus hypoxanthus
Tropical Parula, Parula pitiayumi
Slate-throated Redstart, Myioborus miniatus
Two-banded Warbler, Basileuterus bivittatus
Russet-crowned Warbler, Basileuterus coronatus
Three-striped Warbler,  Basileuterus tristriatus
Grass-green Tanager,  Chlorornis riefferii
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager,Chlorospingus flavigularis
Black-eared Hemispingus, Hemispingus melanotis
Silver-beaked Tanager,  Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus
Yellow-throated Tanager, Iridosornis analis
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Chlorophonia cyanea
Orange-eared Tanager,Chlorochrysa calliparaea
Paradise Tanager,  Tangara chilensis
Golden Tanager,  Tangara arthus
Saffron-crowned Tanager, Tangara xanthocephala
Spotted Tanager, Tangara punctata
Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola
Blue-necked Tanager,  Tangara cyanicollis
Blue-and-black Tanager, Tangara vassorii
Blue Dacnis,  Dacnis cayana
Purple Honeycreeper,  Cyanerpes caeruleus
Deep-blue Flowerpiercer, Diglossopis glauca
Black-faced Brush-Finch, Atlapetes melanolaemus
Yellow-browed Sparrow,  Ammodramus aurifrons
Buff-throated Saltator, Saltator maximus
Dusky-green Oropendola, Psarocolius atrovirens
Russet-backed Oropendola,  Psarocolius angustifrons

MAMMALS
Brown Capuchin Monkey - several came to feeders at the lodge
Common Wooly Monkey
Bolivian Squirrel

Manu Road from San Pedro to Atalaya (1500m-550m)
We reluctantly left the Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge heading further into denser and denser vegetation to the Atalaya on the Madre de Dios River where we would catch a boat to Amazonia Lodge across the river.
We began to see macaws and more parrots, more antbirds and furnarids.
But our stops in bamboo were frustrating. We would only occasionally hear Chestnut-backed Antshrike call and we never saw it. Bamboo Antshrike would call occasionally but we never could get a response. Black-backed Tody-flycatcher wouldn't answer. The bamboo was absolutely dead and we couldn't believe it, although one afternoon we surprised a pair of Night Monkey and got really close views as they stared back at us.

We stopped at the mirador and walked in that area. We returned to the mirador from Amazonia lodge for the macaw display but the friaje and the rain kept macaws from streaming across the river. They either didn't leave their roost or flew low through the forest. We never saw Blue-headed Macaw. Black-capped Tinamou were calling frequently and Colin thought as a joke he'd tape one and play it back while he was by himself. Of course, the bird poked it's head out of the trail and only Colin, in amazement, saw it.,  We found a tree in bloom with lots of new hummers including Gray-breasted Sabrewing, Fork-tailed Woodnymph, Rufous-throated Sapphire, Many Spotted Hummingbird, Sapphire-spangled Emerald. At one stop we had a pair of very vocal Moustached Wrens, Great Antshrike, a pair of White-browed Antbirds and Purplish Jays. Another spot yeilded a cooperative Cabanis' Spinetail. The calling of a Forest-falcon brought our attention to a dead snag in a clearing. Let's get the scope on it. Wait. What's behind it? A pair of Scarlet-hooded Barbets! Get on them! Get no them! By the time we went back to the Forest-falcon it was gone. That would be the story with Forest-falcons on this trip. Never actually saw one well enough to identify it. There was more activity along this road and we were encouraged that perhaps the friaje had lifted. It had for a few hours only. It would be back for the next few days.


Black-capped Tinamou   ,  Crypturellus atrocapillus
Little Blue Heron, Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret,  Egretta thula
Fasciated Tiger-Heron,  Tigrisoma fasciatum
Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture,  Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture,  Cathartes melambrotus
Hook-billed Kite,  Chondrohierax uncinatus
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
Black-and-white Hawk-Eagle,  Spizastur melanoleucus
Laughing Falcon, Herpetotheres cachinnans
Speckled Chachalaca,  Ortalis guttata
Military Macaw,  Ara militaris
Red-and-green Macaw,  Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
White-eyed Parakeet,  Aratinga leucophthalmus
Dusky-headed Parakeet,  Aratinga weddellii
Blue-headed Parrot, Pionus menstruus
Smooth-billed Ani,Crotophaga ani
White-collared Swift,Streptoprocne zonaris
Western Long-tailed Hermit,  Phaethornis longirostris
Reddish Hermit,  Phaethornis ruber
Gray-breasted Sabrewing, Campylopterus largipennis
Violet-headed Hummingbird, Klais guimeti
Fork-tailed Woodnymph,  Thalurania furcata
Rufous-throated Sapphire,  Hylocharis sapphirina
Many-spotted Hummingbird,  Leucippus hypostictus
Sapphire-spangled Emerald, Polyerata lactea
Speckled Hummingbird,Adelomyia melanogenys
Violet-fronted Brilliant,  Heliodoxa leadbeateri
Blue-crowned Trogon,  Trogon curucui
Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Swallow-wing, Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Scarlet-hooded Barbet,  Eubucco tucinkae
Chestnut-eared Aracari, Pteroglossus castanotis
Crimson-crested Woodpecker,  Campephilus melanoleucos
Dark-breasted Spinetail, Synallaxis albigularis
Cabanis' Spinetail, Synallaxis cabanisi
Plain-crowned Spinetail, Synallaxis gujanensis
Montane Foliage-gleaner, Anabacerthia striaticollis
Rufous-rumped Foliage-gleaner,  Philydor erythrocercus
Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner,  Philydor ruficaudatus
Black-banded Woodcreeper,  Dendrocolaptes picumnus
Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus guttatus
H-Bamboo Antshrike   ,  Cymbilaimus sannctaemariae
Great Antshrike, Taraba major
Barred Antshrike,  Thamnophilus doliatus
H-Chestnut-backed Antshrike ,  Thamnophilus palliatus
Plain-winged Antshrike, Thamnophilus schistaceus
Stripe-chested Antwren, Myrmotherula longicauda
Slaty Antwren, Myrmotherula schisticolor
Dot-winged Antwren, Microrhopias quixensis
White-browed Antbird,Myrmoborus leucophrys
Spot-winged Antbird,  Percnostola leucostigma
White-lined Antbird,  Percnostola lophotes
Black-throated Antbird, Myrmeciza atrothorax
Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Elaenia flavogaster
Small-billed Elaenia,Elaenia parvirostris
Olive-striped Flycatcher,  Mionectes olivaceus
Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Phylloscartes ophthalmicus
Slender-footed Tyrannulet, Zimmerius gracilipes
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant,  Lophotriccus pileatus
Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher,  Todirostrum latirostre
Yellow-margined Flycatcher,  Tolmomyias assimilis
Euler's Flycatcher, Lathrotriccus euleri
Vermilion Flycatcher,Pyrocephalus rubinus
Long-tailed Tyrant, Colonia colonus
Short-crested Flycatcher,  Myiarchus ferox
Social Flycatcher, Myiozetetes similis
Gray-capped Flycatcher, Myiozetetes granadensis
Tropical Kingbird,Tyrannus melancholicus
Masked Tityra, Tityra semifasciata
Southern Rough-winged Swallow,  Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Moustached Wren, Thryothorus genibarbis
Black-billed Thrush,  Turdus ignobilis
Purplish Jay, Cyanocorax cyanomelas
Violaceous Jay,  Cyanocorax violaceus
Red-eyed Vireo,  Vireo olivaceus
Slate-throated Redstart, Myioborus miniatus
+*Golden-bellied Warbler, Basileuterus chrysogaster
Buff-rumped Warbler,  Basileuterus fulvicauda
Bananaquit, Coereba flaveola
Magpie Tanager,  Cissopis leveriana
Yellow-throated Bush-Tanager,Chlorospingus flavigularis
*Black-goggled Tanager,  Trichothraupis melanops
Silver-beaked Tanager,  Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus
Palm Tanager, Thraupis palmarum
Bronze-green Euphonia,  Euphonia mesochrysa
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Blue-naped Chlorophonia, Chlorophonia cyanea
Orange-eared Tanager,Chlorochrysa calliparaea
Turquoise Tanager, Tangara mexicana
Paradise Tanager,  Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager, Tangara schrankii
Golden Tanager,  Tangara arthus
Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola
Blue-necked Tanager,  Tangara cyanicollis
Beryl-spangled Tanager, Tangara nigroviridis
Black-faced Dacnis, Dacnis lineata
Blue Dacnis,  Dacnis cayana
Green Honeycreeper,Chlorophanes spiza
Purple Honeycreeper,  Cyanerpes caeruleus
Chestnut-bellied Seedeater,  Sporophila castaneiventris
Black-billed Seed-Finch, Oryzoborus atrirostris
Yellow-browed Sparrow,  Ammodramus aurifrons
Buff-throated Saltator, Saltator maximus
Giant Cowbird, Scaphidura oryzivora
Yellow-rumped Cacique,  Cacicus cela
Dusky-green Oropendola, Psarocolius atrovirens
Russet-backed Oropendola,  Psarocolius angustifrons

MAMMALS
Night Monkey
Common Squirrel Monkey
Brown Capucin Monkey
Common Wooley Monkey

Amazonia Lodge (250M)

Here we were at the fabled Amazonia Lodge where Gail MacKiernan had seen her jaguar, many had seen Rufuos-vented Ground-cuckoo on the Jeep Track and the site of legendary,  snake attacks by Bushmaster and fer-de-lance. Alas, it turns out the Cuckoo hasn't been seen since that one season in 1997 and most of the workers have never seen Jaguar. Luckily, we never saw poisonous snakes. Unluckily we never saw a cat, although we found fresh puma tracks. The Jeep Track was great but very muddy, and the Blackish Rails wouldn't come out even though we tried every day. A Uniform Crake did however walk along the track right in front of us. Johanes' Tody-flycatcher proved elusive in the rain and cold and we never saw it. No antswarms either even up on the ridge, so no Hairy-crested Antbird which is rumored to be there. We consoled ourselves with the amazing food and with stories of the famous snake bites that have occurred at the lodge - even visited the corner where a Bushmaster struck a Field Guides participant with a five foot strike and hit him above the rubber boot!,  We heard a Long-tailed Potoo behind the workers' cabins and could have seen it but we spent too much time on a pair of Tawny-bellied Screech-owl for a possible split to S.T-b S-o. What were we thinking? We saw two potoos fly away and one could easily have been the Long-tailed but too late we missed it.
We spent three hours crawling on our stomachs through helliconia and mud to get a bad glimpse of a singing Amazonian Antpitta which we never re-found, and even gave up a calling Buckley's Forest-falcon to stay with the Antpitta the first time when we didn't see it. Later we would get incredible, easy looks on an island in the Madre de Dios River, but that's birding! We could easily have spent three more days at this amazing place even though it rained every night., 

Undulated Tinamou,Crypturellus undulatus
Turkey Vulture,  Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture,  Cathartes melambrotus
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
Red-throated Caracara,  Daptrius americanus
Peregrine Falcon,  Falco peregrinus
H-Barred Forest-Falcon   ,  Micrastur ruficollis
H-Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon , Micrastur mirandollei
H-Buckley's Forest-Falcon , Micrastur buckleyi
H-Wattled Guan   ,  Aburria aburri
Spix's Guan,  Penelope jacquacu
Hoatzin, Opisthocomus hoazin
Gray-necked Wood-Rail,  Aramides cajanea
Uniform Crake, Amaurolimnas concolor
H-Blackish Rail, Pardirallus nigricans
Purple Gallinule,  Porphyrula martinica
Sungrebe, Heliornis fulica
Sunbittern, Eurypyga helias
Gray-fronted Dove, Leptotila rufaxilla
Military Macaw,  Ara militaris
Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao
Red-and-green Macaw,  Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
White-eyed Parakeet,  Aratinga leucophthalmus
Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
Blue-headed Parrot, Pionus menstruus
Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl, Otus watsonii
(possible split to S.Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl)
H-Long-tailed Potoo  ,  Nyctibius aethereus
Common Potoo, Nyctibius griseus
White-collared Swift,Streptoprocne zonaris
Pale-rumped Swift, Chaetura egregia
Short-tailed Swift, Chaetura brachyura
Pale-tailed Barbthroat, Threnetes niger
Western Long-tailed Hermit,  Phaethornis longirostris
+*Koepcke's Hermit, Phaethornis koepckeae
Green-fronted Lancebill, Doryfera ludovicae
(on the hibiscus in the garden in front of the cabins!)
Rufous-crested Coquette, Lophornis delattrei
Wire-crested Thorntail, Popelairia popelairii
Blue-tailed Emerald,  Chlorostilbon mellisugus
Fork-tailed Woodnymph,  Thalurania furcata
Golden-tailed Sapphire, Chrysuronia oenone
Black-eared Fairy, Heliothryx aurita
White-tailed Trogon,  Trogon viridis
Collared Trogon, Trogon collaris
Blue-crowned Trogon,Trogon curucui
Black-tailed Trogon,  Trogon melanurus
Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Black-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa nigrifrons
H-Golden-collared Toucanet  ,  Selenidera reinwardtii
H-Yellow-ridged Toucan   ,  Ramphastos culminatus
H-Cuvier's Toucan   ,  Ramphastos cuvieri
Cream-colored Woodpecker,  Celeus flavus
Crimson-crested Woodpecker,  Campephilus melanoleucos
Pale-legged Hornero,  Furnarius leucopus
Crested Foliage-gleaner, Anabazenops dorsalis
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner, Automolus rufipileatus
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner,  Automolus ochrolaemus
Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Lineated Woodcreeper,Lepidocolaptes albolineatus
Plain Antvireo,  Dysithamnus mentalis
Bluish-slate Antshrike, Thamnomanes schistogynus
Pygmy Antwren,Myrmotherula brachyura
White-browed Antbird,Myrmoborus leucophrys
Warbling Antbird,  Hypocnemis cantator
Chestnut-tailed Antbird, Myrmeciza hemimelaena
Goeldi's Antbird,  Myrmeciza goeldii
Sooty Antbird, Myrmeciza fortis
Spot-backed Antbird,  Hylophylax naevia
Black-faced Antthrush,  Formicarius analis
Amazonian Antpitta, Hylopezus berlepschi
Band-tailed Manakin,  Pipra fasciicauda
Fiery-capped Manakin,Machaeropterus pyrocephalus
MacConnell's Flycatcher, Mionectes macconnelli
Spectacled Bristle-Tyrant, Phylloscartes orbitalis
Bran-colored Flycatcher,Myiophobus fasciatus
Short-crested Flycatcher,  Myiarchus ferox
Boat-billed Flycatcher, Megarynchus pitangua
Social Flycatcher, Myiozetetes similis
Gray-capped Flycatcher, Myiozetetes granadensis
Tropical Kingbird, Tyrannus melancholicus
White-thighed Swallow,  Neochelidon tibialis
Southern Rough-winged Swallow,  Stelgidopteryx ruficollis
Black-capped Donacobius, Donacobius atricapillus
House Wren, Troglodytes aedon
Black-billed Thrush,  Turdus ignobilis
Violaceous Jay,  Cyanocorax violaceus
Red-eyed Vireo,  Vireo olivaceus
Golden-bellied Warbler,Basileuterus chrysogaster
Olive Tanager, Chlorothraupis carmioli
Masked Crimson Tanager, Ramphocelus nigrogularis
Silver-beaked Tanager,  Ramphocelus carbo
Blue-gray Tanager, Thraupis episcopus
Paradise Tanager,  Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager, Tangara schrankii
Opal-crowned Tanager,Tangara callophrys
Black-faced Dacnis, Dacnis lineata
Blue Dacnis, Dacnis cayana
Green Honeycreeper, Chlorophanes spiza
Purple Honeycreeper,  Cyanerpes caeruleus
Yellow-browed Sparrow,  Ammodramus aurifrons
Troupial, Icterus icterus
Yellow-rumped Cacique,  Cacicus cela
Russet-backed Oropendola,  Psarocolius angustifrons
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

Boat Rides on the Madre de Dios River

A highlight of the trip were the boat rides every day and the birds we saw. Our first boat ride was the seven hour trip to Manu Wildlife Center. Because of the friaje we were freezing and wore wool gloves and knit caps and three layers of clothes.

Capped Heron, Pilherodius pileatus
Cocoi Heron,  Ardea cocoi
Great Egret,  Ardea alba
Snowy Egret,  Egretta thula
Fasciated Tiger-Heron,  Tigrisoma fasciatum
Wood Stork,Mycteria americana
Horned Screamer, Anhima cornuta
Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture,  Cathartes aura
Osprey,  Pandion haliaetus
Crane Hawk ,Geranospiza caerulescens
Great Black-Hawk,  Buteogallus urubitinga
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
Short-tailed Hawk, Buteo brachyurus
Red-throated Caracara,Daptrius americanus
Bat Falcon, Falco rufigularis
Orange-breasted Falcon, Falco deiroleucus
Pied Lapwing, Vanellus cayanus
Collared Plover, Charadrius collaris
Yellow-billed Tern, Sterna superciliaris
Large-billed Tern, Phaetusa simplex
Black Skimmer, Rynchops niger
Pale-vented Pigeon, Columba cayennensis
Red-and-green Macaw,Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
White-eyed Parakeet,  Aratinga leucophthalmus
Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
White-bellied Parrot,Pionites leucogaster
Sand-colored Nighthawk, Chordeiles rupestris
(100s flew from their roost on the rocks on the river islands at sunset)
White-collared Swift,Streptoprocne zonaris
Fork-tailed Palm-Swift, Tachornis squamata
Amazon Kingfisher, Chloroceryle amazona
Swallow-wing, Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Drab Water-Tyrant, Ochthornis littoralis
Little Ground-Tyrant,Muscisaxicola fluviatilis
White-winged Swallow,Tachycineta albiventer
Blue-and-white Swallow, Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
White-banded Swallow,Atticora fasciata
Red-capped Cardinal,  Paroaria gularis
Giant Cowbird, Scaphidura oryzivora
Russet-backed Oropendola,  Psarocolius angustifrons
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

Manu Wildlife Center
A seven hour boat ride in a covered boat brought us to the Manu Wildlife Center just outside Manu National Park and our home for seven nights. Here there's plenty to explore by foot with a canopy tower, a grid of riverside and terra firma trails, a tapir lick with viewing platform and short boat rides are possible to oxbow lakes for Giant Otter, a mineral lick where parrots and macaws gather every day, river islands and bamboo habitat. No more roads, no more vehicles, no more mountains and altitude. Just river and forest and the incredible diversity and wealth of species in the tropical forest. Like Africa, Manu is a paradise for wild life viewing. And for birdwatchers, Manu is mind boggling. John Terborgh, Professor at Duke University Center for Tropical Conservation contrasts the same size patch of forest in Manu and in New Hampshire: "..both harbor about 1,000 pairs of breeding birds per square kilometer, but the former contains over 330 species while the latter supports only 35."

The fascinating history of the Manu area through booms and busts in rubber, lumber, animal skins and oil including fascinating characters such as Fitzcarraldo (who died there), the coincidental meeting which formed the largest park in South America and photographs of the flora and fauna of the area are presented in a special edition of 250 of the book Peru's Amazonian Eden:Manu National Park and Biosphere to benefit the conservationist organization La Selva Sur. A few are available only in the offices of Peru Verde in Cusco, Urb. Santa Monica, Jr. Ricardo Palma J-1 (fax #(084) 22-6392) for approxiamately $90US.,  We went to the offices of Peru Verde in Cusco after we returned from Manu and had the good fortune to run into David G. Ricalde who had just returned from three years at Madidi National Park in Bolivia working to create eco-tourism and conservation programs based on Manu. New local owned and operated eco-tourism lodges will be opening soon in Madidi as well as in the western end of Manu under the auspices of partnerships like Inkanatura which owns and operates Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge and Manu Wildlife Center (www.inkanatura.com). Copies of the book are at both lodges for those mornings or birding breaks.

Booms and busts leave human residue, and settlers are encroaching on this paradise, particularly visible in the area of Manu Wildlife Center. We fell in love with Arturo, a four-month old orphaned red howler monkey who's mother had been shot for food. He is cared for by one of the staff of the Center and we spent time with him at the end of every day. Arturo ran to us as we left the boat, or dropped on our heads from the rafters of the walkways, clutching to the back of our necks as if we were members of his troop, tail wrapped around throat.,  Or he would play, reaching his long arm out to grab a finger or an ear.,  Giant otter pups had been stolen by poachers who shot the mother, only to be bought by SelvaSur conservationists for $30 each in the market at Puerto Maldonaldo and reintroduced into the wild. Two of the locations we visited by boat were being developed for eco-tourism by Manu Safaris, another ecotourism company, the trails widened and clearings cut for tented platforms.

I don't think Manu can be experienced in one visit. When I go back, I'll spend time at Manu Park Lodge inside the park, and hopefully in the new lodge on the western end when it opens. But there is no question that I will go back to this natural paradise.

Undulated Tinamou, Crypturellus undulatus
Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture,Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture,  Cathartes melambrotus
Slate-colored Hawk, Leucopternis schistacea
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
Black Caracara,  Daptrius ater
Lined Forest-Falcon,  Micrastur gilvicollis
Speckled Chachalaca,  Ortalis guttata
Spix's Guan,  Penelope jacquacu
Starred Wood-Quail, Odontophorus stellatus
*Pale-winged Trumpeter , Psophia leucoptera
(Ed spent an hour with a flock of Trumpeters on a trail on the grid watching them perform a wing display, dance, and feed on the floor of the forest)
Ruddy Quail-Dove,  Geotrygon montana
Blue-and-yellow Macaw, Ara ararauna
Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao
Red-and-green Macaw,  Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
Red-bellied Macaw, Orthopsittaca manilata
White-eyed Parakeet,Aratinga leucophthalmus
Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
White-bellied Parrot,Pionites leucogaster
Mealy Parrot, Amazona farinosa
Squirrel Cuckoo, Piaya cayana
Amazonian Pygmy-Owl,  Glaucidium hardyi
Pauraque, Nyctidromus albicollis
Rufous-breasted Hermit, Glaucis hirsuta
White-bearded Hermit,Phaethornis hispidus
Needle-billed Hermit   ,  Phaethornis philippii
Pavonine Quetzal,  Pharomachrus pavoninus
Blue-crowned Motmot,  Momotus momota
Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Paradise Jacamar,  Galbula dea
Collared Puffbird    ,  Bucco capensis
Striolated Puffbird,  Nystalus striolatus
Black-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa nigrifrons
White-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa morphoeus
Swallow-wing, Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Brown-mandibled Aracari, Pteroglossus mariae
Curl-crested Aracari,Pteroglossus beauharnaesii
Golden-collared Toucanet,  Selenidera reinwardtii
Cuvier's Toucan, Ramphastos cuvieri
Yellow-tufted Woodpecker,  Melanerpes cruentatus
Red-stained Woodpecker, Veniliornis affinis
Red-necked Woodpecker    ,  Campephilus rubricollis
Rufous-tailed Xenops,Xenops milleri
Slender-billed Xenops,  Xenops tenuirostris
Chestnut-winged Hookbill,  Ancistrops strigilatus
Black-tailed Leaftosser, Sclerurus caudacutus
Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Dendrocincla fuliginosa
Long-tailed Woodcreeper, Deconychura longicauda
Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Sittasomus griseicapillus
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper,  Glyphorynchus spirurus
Straight-billed Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus picus
Spix's Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus spixii
Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Xiphorhynchus guttatus
Red-billed Scythebill,  Campylorhamphus trochilirostris
Mouse-colored Antshrike   ,  Thamnophilus murinus
Spot-winged Antshrike,  Pygiptila stellaris
Bluish-slate Antshrike,Thamnomanes schistogynus
(Flock leader here acting like Cinereous Antshrike in Ecuador)
White-flanked Antwren,  Myrmotherula axillaris
Long-winged Antwren,  Myrmotherula longipennis
Gray Antwren,Myrmotherula menetriesii
Striated Antbird,  Drymophila devillei
Gray Antbird, Cercomacra cinerascens
White-browed Antbird,Myrmoborus leucophrys
White-lined Antbird,  Percnostola lophotes
Black-faced Antthrush,  Formicarius analis
Band-tailed Manakin,  Pipra fasciicauda
Round-tailed Manakin,Pipra chloromeros
Dwarf Tyrant-Manakin,Tyranneutes stolzmanni
Sepia-capped Flycatcher, Leptopogon amaurocephalus
Ringed Antpipit, Corythopis torquata
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Terenotriccus erythrurus
Sirystes, Sirystes sibilator
Moustached Wren, Thryothorus genibarbis
Violaceous Jay,  Cyanocorax violaceus
Red-eyed Vireo,  Vireo olivaceus
Buff-rumped Warbler,  Basileuterus fulvicauda
Yellow-backed Tanager,  Hemithraupis flavicollis
White-winged Shrike-Tanager, Lanio versicolor
(eye level close views of this canopy species)
Flame-crested Tanager,  Tachyphonus cristatus
White-shouldered Tanager,  Tachyphonus luctuosus
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager, Habia rubica
Silver-beaked Tanager,  Ramphocelus carbo
White-lored Euphonia,Euphonia chrysopasta
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Turquoise Tanager, Tangara mexicana
Paradise Tanager,  Tangara chilensis
Green-and-gold Tanager, Tangara schrankii
Bay-headed Tanager, Tangara gyrola
Black-faced Dacnis, Dacnis lineata
Slate-colored Grosbeak,Saltator grossus
Yellow-rumped Cacique,  Cacicus cela
Casqued Oropendola, Psarocolius oseryi
Crested Oropendola, Psarocolius decumanus
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

MAMMALS
Saddleback Tamarin
Emperor Tamarin
Dusky Titi Monkey
Common Squirrel Monkey
Red Howler Monkey
South American Coati
Brazilian Tapir - one every hour from 8:30 p.m. as we slept on platform
Southern Amazon Red Squirrel
Squirrel

Old Bamboo Trail on Madre de Dios River

Blue-and-yellow Macaw,  Ara ararauna
Rufous-breasted Piculet, Picumnus rufiventris
White-throated Woodpecker, Piculus leucolaemus
Crested Foliage-gleaner, Anabazenops dorsalis
*Manu Antbird, Cercomacra manu
White-browed Antbird,Myrmoborus leucophrys
Warbling Antbird,  Hypocnemis cantator
*Goeldi's Antbird, Myrmeciza goeldii
Black-faced Antthrush,  Formicarius analis
*Rufous-fronted Antthrush, Formicarius rufifrons
(very difficult in this location as bird is wary of tape. Took us two trips about three hours per trip to finally see it well. I hear it might be easier around Manu Park Lodge)
Amazonian Antpitta, Hylopezus berlepschi
(great views just beside the trail)


Thrush-like Wren,  Campylorhynchus turdinus
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

MAMMALS
White-lipped Peccary

Bamboo Island across the River from Manu Wildlife Center
We returned here three times that we could have been on the trails at MWC because the bamboo specialists were so difficult. We finally saw Bamboo Antshrike here which would be easy August-November. And Ihering's Antwren was difficult.,  I particularly was obssessed with the Peruvian Recurvebill, which I saw two of the three times we were here. This bird was the most fascinating of the trip and I would gladly go back and watch it some more. The first time we heard the loud raucous call in some new bamboo. Colin played tape and the bird came right in, perching sideways very low on a palm tree trunk, but with it's head turned away from us so the bill wasn't in clear view.,  It only perched for a second then disappeared. The second time we saw it was on a minor antswarm with Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaners and White-browed Antibirds. The Recurvebill seemed to be dominating the flock at the swarm, not only in size but also in voice. We watched it flying down to the ground and then back up, but poor views through palm fronds and foliage. I wish we had been closer. The bird is a monster and I left wanting to observe this bird more and with a greater appreciation for furnarids.


Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
White-bearded Hermit,Phaethornis hispidus
*Peruvian Recurvebill,  Simoxenops ucayalae
Chestnut-crowned Foliage-gleaner, Automolus rufipileatus
*Bamboo Antshrike, Cymbilaimus sanctaemariae
*Ihering's Antwren, Myrmotherula iheringi
*Manu Antbird, Cercomacra manu
White-browed Antbird,Myrmoborus leucophrys
Dusky-tailed Flatbill,  Ramphotrigon fuscicauda
Red-capped Cardinal,  Paroaria gularis
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

ocha Blanco oxbow lake
We came here for the Giant Otters. Security has been tightened since a female was killed and her two cubs stolen for sale in Puerto Maldonaldo. Luckily they were purchased by SelvaSur conservationists and reintroduced to another oxbow, but a full-time manager does what he can to guard the lake and the remaining three otters. We came in the morning and set up our portable chairs on the moving platform hoping that our journey to the left end of the oxbow and back would yield otters. Your boatmen are not allowed to chase them and there is only one route. Luckily the otter guard spotted them behind us and we watched them swim across the lake, and they became more curious when we returned, one swimming up to the platform for a closer look. Perhaps the male defending his territory? We were glad we brought the scope so we could get great looks at them.,  Luckily a Blue-throated Piping-guan flew over the lake and perched in a bare tree. Antbirds along the banks were very cooperative, and we had a much desired flyover of Orange-cheeked Parrot, which meant we could skip the trip to the Macaw lick the next morning. We had seen all the species that might come to the lick and didn't want to spend the hours in the boat and hours in the hide that we could spend looking for other species.

Anhinga, Anhinga anhinga
Cocoi Heron,  Ardea cocoi
Striated Heron,  Butorides striatus
Horned Screamer, Anhima cornuta
Blue-throated Piping-Guan, Pipile cumanensis
Hoatzin, Opisthocomus hoazin
Pale-vented Pigeon, Columba cayennensis
Blue-and-yellow Macaw,  Ara ararauna
Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao
Red-and-green Macaw,  Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
White-eyed Parakeet,Aratinga leucophthalmus
Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
Orange-cheeked Parrot,  Pionopsitta barrabandi
Mealy Parrot, Amazona farinosa
Amazon Kingfisher, Chloroceryle amazona
Green Kingfisher,  Chloroceryle americana
Swallow-wing, Chelidoptera tenebrosa
Amazonian Streaked-Antwren,  Myrmotherula multostriata
*Band-tailed Antbird,Hypocnemoides maculicauda
*Silvered Antbird, Sclateria naevia
Vermilion Flycatcher,Pyrocephalus rubinus
Lesser Kiskadee, Philohydor lictor

MAMMALS
Saddleback Tamarin
Giant Otter

Cocha Nuevo (bamboo habitat)
Manu Safaris has developed this bamboo habitat as a platform camping eco-tourist site. The bamboo trails have been widened to around eight feet and the birds seemed to stay far back. But we still saw a few good ones. There were a lot of people camping here. They were bathing from a log in the river that Arrico the boat man told us has electric eels and there were bites on their legs from mosquitos. We were glad we were staying at MWC.

Undulated Tinamou, Crypturellus undulatus
Black Caracara,Daptrius ater
Scaly-naped Parrot, Amazona mercenaria
White-bearded Hermit,Phaethornis hispidus
Blue-crowned Trogon,  Trogon curucui
Broad-billed Motmot,  Electron platyrhynchum
Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Black-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa nigrifrons
Slender-billed Xenops,  Xenops tenuirostris
Long-winged Antwren,  Myrmotherula longipennis
Gray Antwren,Myrmotherula menetriesii
+**White-cheeked Tody-Tyrant, Poecilotriccus albifacies
Large-headed Flatbill,  Ramphotrigon megacephala
Dull-capped Attila, Attila bolivianus
Violaceous Jay,Cyanocorax violaceus
Slate-colored Grosbeak, Saltator grossus
Yellow-rumped Cacique,  Cacicus cela
Crested Oropendola, Psarocolius decumanus

Cocha Comungo
Manu Safaris has developed this bamboo habitat as a platform camping eco-tourist site. The bamboo trails have been widened to around eight feet and the birds seemed to stay far back. But we still saw a few good ones. There were a lot of people camping here. They were bathing from a log in the river that Arrico the boat man told us has electric eels and there were bites on their legs from mosquitos. We were glad we were staying at MWC.

Cinereous Tinamou, Crypturellus cinereus
Undulated Tinamou, Crypturellus undulatus
Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus
Turkey Vulture,  Cathartes aura
Greater Yellow-headed Vulture,  Cathartes melambrotus
King Vulture, Sarcoramphus papa
Roadside Hawk, Buteo magnirostris
*Razor-billed Curassow,  Mitu tuberosa
Hoatzin, Opisthocomus hoazin
Gray-fronted Dove, Leptotila rufaxilla
Scarlet Macaw, Ara macao
Red-and-green Macaw,  Ara chloroptera
Chestnut-fronted Macaw, Ara severa
Cobalt-winged Parakeet, Brotogeris cyanoptera
Mealy Parrot, Amazona farinosa
Gray-rumped Swift, Chaetura cinereiventris
Pale-tailed Barbthroat, Threnetes niger
Collared Trogon, Trogon collaris
***Chestnut Jacamar,  Galbalcyrhynchus purusianus
Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
Black-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa nigrifrons
White-fronted Nunbird,  Monasa morphoeus
Bluish-slate Antshrike, Thamnomanes schistogynus
Rusty-belted Tapaculo    ,  Liosceles Thoracicus
Cinereous Mourner, Laniocera hypopyrra
Band-tailed Manakin,  Pipra fasciicauda
Lesser Kiskadee, Philohydor lictor
Black-tailed Tityra,  Tityra cayana
Thrush-like Wren,  Campylorhynchus turdinus
Silver-beaked Tanager,  Ramphocelus carbo
White-lored Euphonia,Euphonia chrysopasta
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Paradise Tanager,  Tangara chilensis
Yellow-rumped Cacique,  Cacicus cela
Amazonian Oropendola,Gymnostinops bifasciatus

Boca Manu Airstrip
The woods on either side of the trail to the airstrip from the river actually yielded an endemic and we heard and almost saw a bird we had missed at Amazonia Lodge.

Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Galbula cyanescens
+Fine-barred Piculet,Picumnus subtilis
H-Johannes' Tody-Tyrant   ,  Hemitriccus johannis
Short-crested Flycatcher,  Myiarchus ferox
Tropical Kingbird, Tyrannus melancholicus
Red-eyed Vireo,  Vireo olivaceus
Orange-bellied Euphonia, Euphonia xanthogaster
Blue-black Grassquit,Volatinia jacarina
Double-collared Seedeater, Sporophila caerulescens

Lomas de Lanchay near Lima (250m)

At Lima airport we met up with friends who had been in the North with Barry Walker and we shared stories of our trips and the unusual weather we had experienced. It was election day in Peru, and everything was closed but we decided to try the reserve at Lomas de Lanchay anyway. We drove out of Lima into the hot, arid desert habitat - gray and rocky with cactus, moisture provided only by coastal fog. In a side canyon we finally found +Cactus Canastero. The reserve at Lomas de Lanchay was closed, so we hiked around the gate and up the road and the hills to find a +Thick-billed Miner. The vegetation by the side the road which usually has Least Seedsnipe was dry and we didn't see any. Their favorite food are shoots and there just weren't any.

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Black Caracara,  Daptrius ater
American Kestrel,  Falco sparverius
Bat Falcon, Falco rufigularis
*Tawny-throated Dotterel  ,  Oreopholus ruficollis
Croaking Ground-Dove,Columbina cruziana
+*Coastal Miner,    Geositta peruviana
Grayish Miner, Geositta maritima
+*Thick-billed Miner,Geositta crassirostris
+**Cactus Canastero, Asthenes cactorum
Vermilion Flycatcher,Pyrocephalus rubinus
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Muscigralla brevicauda
Blue-and-white Swallow, Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
Cinereous Conebill, Conirostrum cinereum
Blue-and-yellow Tanager, Thraupis bonariensis
Rufous-collared Sparrow, Zonotrichia capensis

Santa Eulalia Road above Huanico (2,500-3,000m)

We were feeling the effects back in the altitude of Peru this time North of Lima. The forest was fragmented and scrubby and dry, not like the more humid forest on the East slope, but each patch was good as we headed up to the Puna zone. +Chestnut-breasted Warbling-Finch has been seen in the upper stretches of this road but we didn't see it. We were impressed with the Inca-Finches and the amazing hummingbirds in this habitat.

Andean Tinamou,  Nothoprocta pentlandii
Andean Condor, Vultur gryphus
Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Geranoaetus melanoleucus
Variable Hawk, Buteo polyosoma
Eared Dove, Zenaida auriculata
Bare-faced Ground-Dove, Metriopelia ceciliae
Black-winged Ground-Dove,Metriopelia melanoptera
White-tipped Dove, Leptotila verreauxi
Peruvian Pygmy-Owl, Glaucidium peruanum
Andean Swift, Aeronautes andecolus
Sparkling Violet-ear,Colibri coruscans
Giant Hummingbird, Patagona gigas
+**Bronze-tailed Comet,  Polyonymus caroli
*Oasis Hummingbird, Rhodopis vesper
Peruvian Sheartail, Thaumastura cora
Purple-collared Woodstar , Myrtis fanny
Black-necked Woodpecker, Colaptes atricollis
+*Rusty-crowned Tit-Spinetail, Leptasthenura pileata
+Canyon Canastero,  Asthenes pudibunda
*Pied-crested Tit-Tyrant, Anairetes reguloides
Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant,  Anairetes flavirostris
White-browed Chat-Tyrant,  Ochthoeca leucophrys
Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Myiotheretes striaticollis
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Blue-and-white Swallow, Pygochelidon cyanoleuca
House Wren, Troglodytes aedon
Chiguanco Thrush,  Turdus chiguanco
Hooded Siskin, Carduelis magellanica
Cinereous Conebill,Conirostrum cinereum
Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, Phrygilus unicolor
Band-tailed Sierra-Finch,  Phrygilus alaudinus
+***Great Inca-Finch,Incaspiza pulchra
Band-tailed Seedeater,  Catamenia analis
Rusty Flowerpiercer,  Diglossa sittoides
Greenish Yellow-Finch,  Sicalis olivascens
+*Rusty-bellied Brush-Finch,Atlapetes nationi
Golden-bellied Grosbeak, Pheucticus chrysogaster
Scrub Blackbird,Dives warszewiczi

Marcopomacocha (4600m+)

This was the highest altitude I have ever been anywhere in the world. It was a long drive up to the bogs and snowcapped peaks where we would search for some of the rarest birds in Peru and South America. Visibility was good as all the growth was stunted, but our movement was slow and we tired easily. It was one of the greatest days of birding in my life especially for the furnarids we saw.

Andean Goose, Chloephaga melanoptera
Crested Duck, Anas specularioides
Mountain Caracara, Phalcoboenus megalopterus
Andean Lapwing,  Vanellus resplendens
**Diademed Sandpiper-Plover,  Phegornis mitchellii
(two in one location, five in the other in various plumages)
Puna Snipe, Gallinago andina
Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe,  Attagis gayi
(big flocks of them)
Gray-breasted Seedsnipe, Thinocorus orbignyianus
Andean Hillstar, Oreotrochilus estella
+***Black-breasted Hillstar, Oreotrochilus melanogaster
Olivaceous Thornbill,Chalcostigma olivaceum
(feeds by walking on the ground)
Andean Flicker,  Colaptes rupicola
+*Dark-winged Miner, Geositta saxicolina
Pain-breasted Earthcreeper, Upucerthia jelskii
+Striated Earthcreeper,  Upucerthia serrana
White-winged Cinclodes, Cinclodes atacamensis
+***White-bellied Cinclodes, Cinclodes palliatus
Cordilleran Canastero,  Asthenes modesta
+***Junin Canastero, Asthenes virgata
Line-fronted Canastero, Asthenes urubambensis
Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola maculirostris
Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola cinerea
White-fronted Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola albifrons
Ochre-naped Ground-Tyrant, Muscisaxicola flavinucha
Black Siskin, Carduelis atrata
White-winged Diuca-Finch,  Diuca speculifera
Bright-rumped Yellow-Finch,  Sicalis uropygialis

Stops on the road from Lima to Pucusana, mini-pelagic from Pucusana, Villa Marshes near Lima (sea level)

Our last day in Peru was spent at a leisurely pace along the coast between Lima and the fishing village of Pucusana. We stopped in San Pedro and birded the agricultural fields and the coast, and we stopped along the highway wherever we saw any habitat. We spent a few hours at the Villa Marshes including the coastal habitat where we searched for Least Seedsnipe through the fence but no luck.

*Humboldt Penguin,  Spheniscus humboldti
Pied-billed Grebe, Podilymbus podiceps
Great Grebe,Podiceps major
Peruvian Pelican,  Pelecanus thagus
Peruvian Booby,  Sula variegata
Guanay Cormorant,  Phalacrocorax bougainvillii
Red-legged Cormorant,Phalacrocorax gaimardi
Great Egret,  Ardea alba
Little Blue Heron, Egretta caerulea
Snowy Egret,  Egretta thula
Cattle Egret, Bubulcus ibis
Striated Heron,  Butorides striatus
Black-crowned Night-Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax
Puna Ibis,  Plegadis ridgwayi
White-cheeked Pintail,  Anas bahamensis
Cinnamon Teal, Anas cyanoptera
Andean Duck,Oxyura ferruginea
Black Vulture, Coragyps atratus
Cinereous Harrier, Circus cinereus
American Kestrel,  Falco sparverius
Common Moorhen,  Gallinula chloropus
Slate-colored Coot, Fulica ardesiaca
Blackish Oystercatcher, Haematopus ater
Black-necked Stilt, Himantopus mexicanus
Peruvian Thick-knee,  Burhinus superciliaris
Killdeer, Charadrius vociferus
Tawny-throated Dotterel, Oreopholus ruficollis
Ruddy Turnstone, Arenaria interpres
Surfbird, Aphriza virgata
Band-tailed Gull,  Larus belcheri
Gray Gull,  Larus modestus
Kelp Gull,  Larus dominicanus
Gray-headed Gull,  Larus cirrocephalus
Inca Tern,  Larosterna inca
Eared Dove,Zenaida auriculata
Pacific Dove, Zenaida meloda
Croaking Ground-Dove,Columbina cruziana
Groove-billed Ani, Crotophaga sulcirostris
Wren-like Rushbird, Phleocryptes melanops
Many-colored Rush-Tyrant,  Tachuris rubrigastra
Vermilion Flycatcher,Pyrocephalus rubinus
Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant,  Muscisaxicola macloviana
Short-tailed Field-Tyrant, Muscigralla brevicauda
House Wren ,Troglodytes aedon
Collared Warbling-Finch, Poospiza hispaniolensis
Variable Seedeater, Sporophila corvina
Drab Seedeater,  Sporophila simplex

garrygeorge@msn.com

 

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