Birdwatching Trip Report from Romania

SITES

TRANSYLVANIAN MOUNTAINS (CARPATHIANS)

Accommodation: Guesthouse Elena in Zărneşti. Zărneşti is a quiet Transylvanian village, backed by the mountains of the Piatra Craiului National Park, where the locals still use horse-drawn carts for transport.

The Transylvanian Alps of Transylvania are some of the most magnificent and least disturbed mountains in Europe today, possessing an exciting avifauna. The Transylvanian Mountains are a sanctuary of deep forests and wildlife and is one of the most pristine ecosystems left in Europe. Piatra Craiului National Park is a spectacular park, dominated by a jagged, 25-kilometre limestone ridge, and widely regarded as one of Romania’s most beautiful sights, which reaches a height of 2,250 metres.

The scenery is stunning and the Transylvanian dark pine forests and alpine habitats offers are the haunt of Golden Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Ural Owl, Eurasian Nutcracker, Eurasian Three-toed Woodpecker, White-backed Woodpecker and Wallcreeper.

The huge expanses of pristine forest that cloak the hillsides still provide an ideal habitat for Europe’s largest populations of Brown Bears, Wolves and Lynx. Wolves and Lynx are rarely seen, but there is a good chance to see Brown Bears from a series of observation hides in the forest. These shy mammals are most reliably seen during the last week of April and the first week of May, when they are lured to the hides, following their long winter hibernation, by the prospect of an easy meal. Transylvania still has some 3,000 Brown Bears, a truly amazing quantity, and this is undoubtedly the best place in Europe for observing this magnificent creature.

Birds seen during our visit:

Grey Heron, Black Stork, Mallard, Western Marsh-Harrier, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Eurasian Kestrel, Eurasian Hobby, Peregrine Falcon, Common Sandpiper, Common Wood-Pigeon, Eurasian Collared-Dove, Common Cuckoo, Ural Owl, Alpine Swift, Common Swift, Middle Spotted Woodpecker, White-backed Woodpecker, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker, Green Woodpecker, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Wood Lark, Barn Swallow, White Wagtail, Yellow Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Tree Pipit, Water Pipit, Goldcrest, Firecrest, White-throated Dipper, Winter Wren, Ring Ouzel, Eurasian Blackbird, Fieldfare, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Common Chiffchaff, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Garden Warbler, Lesser Whitethroat, Collared Flycatcher, European Robin, Black Redstart, Whinchat, Northern Wheatear, Long-tailed Tit, Marsh Tit, Willow Tit, Coal Tit, Crested Tit, Great Tit, Eurasian Blue Tit, Eurasian Treecreeper, Eurasian Jay, Black-billed Magpie, Eurasian Nutcracker, Eurasian Jackdaw, Hooded Crow, Common Raven, European Starling, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Chaffinch, European Greenfinch, European Goldfinch, Eurasian Bullfinch, Hawfinch, Yellowhammer.

Mammals seen during our trip:

Red Fox, Grey Wolf, Brown Bear, Chamois.

DOBROGEA REGION

Accommodation: Ibis Tours Guesthouse (sometimes called “Golden Oriole Guesthouse”) in Tulcea.

This largely dry region nestles between the River Danube, as it flows from south to north before forming the delta, and the lagoons and Black Sea to the east. The landscape is typically rolling steppe and agricultural country, dotted with woodlands and brackish and freshwater lakes. There are some excellent wetlands, thronged by waders and waterfowl, herons and marsh terns.

Many of the birds that inhabit the Danube Delta can also be seen here. In addition there are some, like Levant Sparrowhawk, Collared Pratincole, Pied Wheatear, Calandra Lark and Spanish Sparrow that are easier to locate here than in the delta.

Furthermore, its Black Sea coast, running from north to south, is part of a major flyway for migrating birds travelling between their breeding grounds in Eurasia and their winter quarters in the Mediterranean, Africa or further east.
In Dobrogea we visited Babadag Forest, Istria (Lacul Sinoie & Lacul Histria), Vadu (Black Sea), the lakes near Murighiol & Plopui, Macin National Park and the Celic Dere Monastery area.

Birds seen during our visit:

Arctic Loon, Great Crested Grebe, Great White Pelican, Dalmatian Pelican, Great Cormorant, Pygmy Cormorant, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Great Egret, Little Egret, Squacco Heron, White Stork, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Mute Swan, Greylag Goose, Common Shelduck, Eurasian Wigeon, Gadwall, Mallard, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard, Ferruginous Pochard, Short-toed Eagle, Western Marsh-Harrier, Montagu’s Harrier, Levant Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Buzzard, Long-legged Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Imperial Eagle, Booted eagle, Eurasian Kestrel, Red-footed Falcon, Eurasian Hobby, Saker Falcon, Common Quail, Ring-necked Pheasant, Corn Crake, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot, Eurasian Oystercatcher, Black-winged Stilt, Pied Avocet, Eurasian Thick-knee, Collared Pratincole, Northern Lapwing, Snowy Plover, Spotted Redshank, Common Redshank, Common Greenshank, Green Sandpiper, Wood Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Parasitic Jaeger, Caspian Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Black-headed Gull, Mediterranean Gull, Caspian Tern, Common Tern, Whiskered Tern, White-winged Tern, Black Tern, Rock Pigeon, Common Wood-Pigeon, Eurasian Turtle-Dove, Eurasian Collared-Dove, Common Cuckoo, European Scops-Owl, Common Swift, European Bee-eater, European Roller, Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Wryneck, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Syrian Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Calandra Lark, Greater Short-toed Lark, Crested Lark, Wood Lark, Sky Lark, Bank Swallow, Barn Swallow, Red-rumped Swallow, House Martin, White Wagtail, Yellow Wagtail, Tawny Pipit, Winter Wren, Eurasian Blackbird, Song Thrush, Mistle Thrush, Savi’s Warbler, Paddyfield Warbler, Eurasian Reed-Warbler, Great Reed-Warbler, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Willow Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Lesser Whitethroat, Barred Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, European Pied Flycatcher, Red-breasted Flycatcher, European Robin, Thrush Nightingale, Common Nightingale, Black Redstart, Common Redstart, Whinchat, Northern Wheatear, Pied Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, Bearded Reedling, Marsh Tit, Great Tit, Eurasian Blue Tit, Eurasian Nuthatch, Short-toed Treecreeper, Eurasian Penduline-Tit, Eurasian Golden-Oriole, Red-backed Shrike, Eurasian Jay, Black-billed Magpie, Eurasian Jackdaw, Rook, Hooded Crow, European Starling, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Spanish Sparrow, Chaffinch, European Greenfinch, European Goldfinch, Eurasian Linnet, Eurasian Bullfinch, Hawfinch, Yellowhammer, Ortolan Bunting, Reed Bunting, Corn Bunting.

DANUBE DELTA

Accommodation: Ibis Tours Guesthouse (sometimes called “Golden Oriole Guesthouse”) in Tulcea and in the Delta at Maliuc in an apartment.

For its serene beauty and richness of birds, the immense Danube Delta is perhaps Europe's greatest natural treasure. The largest reed beds in the world are here and, during the spring and summer months, the Delta provides one of the world's major bird spectacles. It is a wetland area larger than the Camargue and the Cota Doñana combined! All of the Danube Delta was declared a Biosphere Reserve in 1990.

After a 2800 kilometres journey across Europe, the Danube reaches the Black Sea, splitting into many channels, creating the second largest delta on the continent. Vast expanses of swamps, forests and shallow lakes, surrounded by thick reed beds, provide a sanctuary for over 300 species of birds as well as amphibians, reptiles, dragonflies and mammals, including otters.

Needless to say, the Delta is a truly wonderful place and, in ornithological terms, probably deserves the title of Europe's single most valuable habitat.

Birds seen during our visit:

Red-necked Grebe, Great Crested Grebe, Great White Pelican, Dalmatian Pelican, Great Cormorant, Pygmy Cormorant, Grey Heron, Purple Heron, Great Egret, Little Egret, Squacco Heron, Black-crowned Night-Heron, Little Bittern, Black Stork, White Stork, Glossy Ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Mute Swan, Greylag Goose, Common Shelduck, Gadwall, Green-winged Teal, Mallard, Northern Pintail, Garganey, Northern Shoveler, Red-crested Pochard, Common Pochard, Ferruginous Pochard, Tufted Duck, European Honey-Buzzard, Black Kite, White-tailed Eagle, Western Marsh-Harrier, Montagu’s Harrier, Levant Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Eurasian Buzzard, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Eurasian Kestrel, Red-footed Falcon, Eurasian Hobby, Ring-necked Pheasant, Water Rail, Common Moorhen, Eurasian Coot, Black-winged Stilt, Northern Lapwing, Eurasian Curlew, Spotted Redshank, Common Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Ruff, Caspian Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Black-headed Gull, Caspian Tern, Common Tern, Whiskered Tern, White-winged Tern, Black Tern, Stock Dove Common Wood-Pigeon, Eurasian Collared-Dove, Common Cuckoo, Tawny Owl, Eurasian Nightjar, Common Swift, Common Kingfisher, European Bee-eater, European Roller, Eurasian Hoopoe, Eurasian Wryneck, Black Woodpecker, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Wood Lark, Bank Swallow, Barn Swallow, House Martin, White Wagtail, Yellow Wagtail, Eurasian Blackbird, Song Thrush, Savi’s Warbler, Sedge Warbler, Eurasian Reed-Warbler, Great Reed-Warbler, Common Chiffchaff, Wood Warbler, Blackcap, Garden Warbler,

Lesser Whitethroat, Thrush Nightingale, Common Nightingale, Bluethroat, Black Redstart, Common Redstart, Whinchat, Northern Wheatear, Bearded Reedling, Marsh Tit, Great Tit, Eurasian Blue Tit, Eurasian Penduline-Tit, Eurasian Golden-Oriole, Red-backed Shrike, Black-billed Magpie, Eurasian Jackdaw, Rook, Hooded Crow, European Starling, House Sparrow, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Chaffinch, European Greenfinch, European Goldfinch, Reed Bunting, Corn Bunting.

DAILY LOG

Friday May 1

Our trip began with a 2½ hours Tarom flight (10.20 a.m.) from Brussels to Bucharest, and despite a slight delay on take off, we arrived on time in Bucharest and met up with Adrian Hagatis and Laurentiu Petrencu, our guides during the trip. We immediately drove for three hours out of the flat plains that surround the capital and into the cool, forest-clad mountains of the Transylvanian Mountains. Amongst the birds seen en route were Black-crowned Night-Heron, Black-headed Wagtail, White-throated Dipper and Coal Tit.

In the late afternoon we arrived in Zărneşti, at the foot of the Piatra Craiului Mountains, in the Carpathians.

We checked into Guesthouse Elena, a very comfortable place to stay with good food.

Saturday May 2

First light saw us tramping in the cool of the early morning in the hills surrounding Zărneşti. Amongst the more interesting birds seen were Whinchat, Fieldfare, Hawfinch and Yellowhammer. A Grey-faced Woodpecker was constantly calling, but we could not locate the bird.

After breakfast a short bus journey took us to the head of the Zărneşti Gorge to explore Piatra Craiului National Park. The scenery was stunning and we made a 5½ hours walk in the valley, the forests and on the alpine slopes. In the valley a wealth of species were to vie our attention and amongst the birds seen were European Sparrowhawk, Peregrine Falcon, Black & Grey-faced Woodpecker, Grey Wagtail, White-throated Dipper, Wood Warbler, Common Raven and Hawfinch.. We made a special effort to find the Wallcreeper, but we had no luck. Branching off from the main track, we followed a steep path through the spruce woods, seeing not many interesting birds and finally emerged onto an alpine meadow, where we had a picnic lunch. Amongst the few birds seen here were Common Buzzard, Water Pipit, Firecrest, Marsh Tit and Ring Ouzel (the white flecked alpestris race). From here we descended through the woodland back into the Zărneşti Gorge. In the late afternoon we headed to Valea Strâmba. We made a long stroll here and the highlights included Western Marsh-Harrier, soaring Lesser Spotted Eagles, Eurasian Hobby, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Black Woodpecker and Black-headed Wagtail. Vital spent most of the time trying to identify the butterflies, while the rest of us were more interested in the birds.

Then we headed in the company of an experienced local guide to a remote bear hide deep in the Carpathian forest. We did not have to wait long before we saw our first Brown Bear. We stayed more than two hours in the hide and saw no less than 17 bears! Initial individuals to the site were sub-adults later followed by mothers with 1 to 2 year old cubs, with large males making a later appearance just before dark.

Undoubtedly the highlight was the mother with the 3 one year old cubs. At 22.30 we again arrived at our guesthouse, where we heard from another group they had seen an Ural Owl, when they returned from an unsuccessful trip to another observation hide.

Sunday May 3

After breakfast, our first port of call was again the hill surrounding Zărneşti. Inevitably we saw the same birds as yesterday, but we managed to find a few new ones. We had close encounters with a beautiful White-backed Woodpecker as it flew into a dead tree. Other ‘new’ ones were Goldcrest, Northern Wheatear, Eurasian Treecreeper, Eurasian Nutcracker and Eurasian Bullfinch.

In the afternoon we visited the gorge near Rasov, where the highlight was a single Black Stork. Yellow-bellied Toads were found in the local streams.

We ended our day with a visit to another observation hide near Zărneşti. We stayed a few hours in the hide and hardly saw any birds. Highlight however was the heart-stopping view of three wolves in the valley.

About 40% of the European wolf population occurs in Romania.

When we headed back to Zărneşti, we spotted an Ural Owl in a tree along the road, which gave superb views. It was the only owl in Europe I still had not seen.

Monday May 4

A pre-breakfast visit to the nearby Piatra Craiului National Park revealed nearly the same birds as two days ago, but we also spotted a group of Alpine Swifts and also Chamois.

Then we returned to Zărneşti, where we had breakfast. Hereafter we visited the nearby Castle Bran, the ‘alleged’ haunt of Vlad the Impaler, on whom the Dracula stories are based. Here of course we made a lot of photographs and we also saw here our only Long-tailed Tits of the trip.

We then made a short excursion into the nearby medieval town of Brasov. We changed money and made a stroll in a park in the centre of the town. Amongst the birds seen here were a few Eurasian Nuthatches.

On the long journey to the Danube Delta we drove out of the Carpathians and east through an undulating

landscape where cereals, sunflowers and grapes were growing. During the drive in the mountains an opportune stop in some oak woodland produced superb views of Middle Spotted Woodpecker, Wood Warbler and Collared Flycatcher. Not far from lake Hasarlâc we found an excellent Red-footed Falcon colony

We finally arrived at 19.15 hours in Tulcea , the gate way to the Danube Delta, where we checked in at the “Golden Oriole” Guesthouse from Ibis Tours. This was to be our home for the next four nights.

Tuesday May 5

The following morning saw us driving into the typically rolling steppe and agricultural country of Dobrogea. Our first stop was at Denise Tepe near Rândunica, where we made a stroll on the steppe along a hill, a rare habitat nowadays in Europe. We sampled a long list of birds amongst them Short-toed Eagle, Long-legged Buzzard, Imperial Eagle, Greater Short-toed Lark, Tawny Pipit, Whinchat, the localised Isabelline Wheatear, Red-backed Shrike, Spanish Sparrow and Ortolan Bunting. We also saw here our first Susliks.

Hereafter we drove to the nearby Babadag Forest, an area of ancient woodland rich in flowers. Here we made a long stroll and of course we saw a good supply of forest birds amongst them Wood Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Eurasian Golden-Oriole, Eurasian Bullfinch and Eurasian Nuthatch. More effort was needed to find the Red-breasted Flycatcher, although eventually we managed to get good views of 2 birds.

In the afternoon we drove through the steppe/farmland that forms a main part of this landscape to Histria.

The amount of birds was tremendous and amongst the birds seen in this habitat were Western Marsh-Harrier, Montagu’s Harrier, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, large numbers of Red-Footed Falcon, European Bee-eater, European Roller, Eurasian Hoopoe, Calandra Lark, Sky Lark, Black-headed and Blue-headed Wagtail, Whinchat, Northern Wheatear and Corn Bunting.

We continued on to wetland habitats near the Black Sea at Histria, where Yellow Wagtails of various sub-species were scurrying about catching flies. The area near Lake Istria and Lake Sinoie is probably the most productive birding spot on Romania's Black Sea Coast. We had an excellent sighting of a Paddyfield Warbler singing high in the reeds and also saw Eurasian Penduline-Tits and Bearded Reedlings. The wet areas near Histria also had a large group of Great White Pelicans and many egrets and herons.

We observed here a good selection of waders such as Black-winged Stilt, Collared Pratincole, Dunlin, Curlew Sandpiper in summer plumage, Little Stint and Ruff in large numbers. We then drove to Vadu, a former industrial area with old lagoons beside the Black Sea. We spent some tome along the edge of the Black Sea were we had good views of the endangered Dalmatian Pelican and we also saw an Arctic Loon and a Parasitic Jaeger. Hereafter we travelled back to Tulcea to the Ibis guesthouse.

Wednesday May 6

While I was having a shower this morning I heard a Thrush Nightingale singing in a nearby garden.

First we travelled west of Tulcea to a place with superb views across the upper Danube Delta. Amongst the birds seen here were Pygmy Cormorant, Long-legged Buzzard, Whiskered & White-winged Tern, European Bee-eater, European Roller and Great Reed-Warbler.

A short drive further west brought us to a valley of old vines and scrubland where we found a pair of Syrian Woodpeckers and along a small river under a bridge, we encountered a few Red-rumped Swallows, a scarce breeding bird in Romania.

We then drove on to an area of ancient woodland of oak, lime and hornbeam near the Celic Dere Monastery. We walked through part of the woodland, encountering a rich variety of birds along the way.

A Grey-faced Woodpecker gave unbeatable views and other birds included Black Woodpecker, Wood Warbler, Spotted Flycatcher, Marsh Tit, Short-toed Treecreeper and a few Hawfinches to name but a few.

We then drove on to the newly designated Macin Mountains National Park, the last recorded breeding site for Black Vulture in Romania. After lunch we made a walk on the dry slope to the hills were we encountered a soaring Levant Sparrowhawk, soaring Long-legged Buzzards, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and Ortolan Bunting. Here too we had yet another find a male Pied Wheatear watched at length on the rocks above us, here at the westernmost limit of its range.

A couple of hours were then spent exploring the rocky crags and adjacent steppe just east of Macin. Isabelline Wheatears were quite common and conspicuous on the steppe, where several Susliks were seen and a pair of Eurasian Thicknees. We also saw a group of eight Wild Boars on the well-wooded slopes.

With the evening wearing on we reluctantly left the area on the one hour return journey to Tulcea.

Thursday May 7

Today we spent all day in the Dobrogea area south of Tulcea. At Nufâru we had excellent views of two soaring Saker Falcons, Long-legged Buzzard and we also saw a few Tawny Pipits here.

The Plopui Lake (Murighiol area) offered an almost bewildering array of birdlife. Most noteworthy of the birds we encountered in this area were Dalmatian Pelican, Glossy Ibis, Red-crested Pochard, Pied Avocet, a large colony of Mediterranean Gulls, Caspian Tern and in the gardens of the village near the lake Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and Barred Warbler.

We then headed to the Uspenia Monastery area. We made a stroll along the edge of the woodland and amongst the birds seen were Short-toed Eagle, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Corncrake (heard), European Scops-Owl and Wood Lark.

Then dark storm clouds gathered and the first drops of rain started to fall and our birding day was over.

We drove on slippery sandy roads now and it cost us a lot of trouble to return to the tarmac road.

Friday May 8

This morning we left Tulcea by boat, definitely the way to explore the best locations in the very heart of the Danube Delta – seeing birds and places that are just impossible to reach any other way.

We glided along the numerous tree-lined water channels with the morning chorus of Thrush Nightingales, Common Redstarts, Eurasian Golden-Orioles, Eurasian Reed-Warblers and the reeling of Savi’s Warblers from the dense reed-beds. In the shallower channels Common Kingfishers were ubiquitous.

Many waterbirds were seen in huge numbers - including Red-necked Grebes, Purple Herons, Squacco Herons, Black-crowned Night-Herons, Glossy Ibises, Red-crested Pochards, Ferruginous Pochards, huge numbers of Whiskered and White-winged Terns and Common Cuckoos.

Overhead, soaring Great White Pelicans and Pygmy Cormorants were everywhere and then the highlight a small group of Black Storks. We did see a few White-tailed Eagles flying over the poplars. Red-footed Falcons were seen in small groups hunting insects overhead and quite a few hunting Hobbies skimmed low in pursuit of the delta's abundant dragonflies.

In the late afternoon we arrived at Maliuc, a small village in the centre of the delta, where we checked into an apartment from Ibis Tours.

In the evening we made a stroll along a few deserted fishing ponds near the village and amongst the birds seen here were Little Grebe, Greylag Goose, Northern Pintail, Eurasian Hoopoe, Sedge Warbler and Eurasian Penduline-Tit. The food prepared by a woman from the small village of Letea was excellent and there was plenty of it!

Saturday May 9

We made a short pre-breakfast walk along the fish ponds near the village, where we saw the same birds as yesterday and a few other birds such as Little Bittern and Tufted Duck.

Hereafter we left Maliuc by boat and explored another region of the delta. In places, the channels unexpectedly opened out into wide eutrophic lakes covered in white and yellow water lilies. Here marsh terns swooped low over the water hawking insects (all three species, Whiskered Tern being the most abundant) and here we also saw Red-necked Grebe, Eared Grebe and wildfowl such as Ferruginous Duck.

Via a few channels and lakes we arrived at the Stipoc Fish Farm. Here we had the opportunity to undertake a short walk on land. Amongst the birds seen here were Green-winged Teal, Garganey, a group of 750+ Spotted Redshank in breeding plumage, Curlew Sandpiper, Bluethroat, and Bearded Reedling.

We had frequent sightings of raptors: a small group of migrating European Honey-Buzzards, Western Marsh-Harriers, Eurasian Buzzards, Lesser Spotted eagle, Red-footed Falcons and Hobbies.

Other vertebrates included a few Frog species, Grass Snakes, Dice Snakes and European Pond Terrapins

At 19.30 we were back in Maliuc.

Sunday May 10

Today we made a boat trip to Letea, a remote village in the north-east of the Danube Delta area.

Large flocks of Whiskered, White-winged and Black Terns flew overhead on the old branch of the Danube, whilst in the shallower channels Kingfishers, Common Sandpipers and Green Sandpipers fed along the banks. At Letea we made a stroll in the sand dunes and the deciduous forest, while it was scorching hot.

The more open land held Eurasian Wryneck, Grey-faced Woodpecker, Wood Lark, Willow Warbler, Northern Wheatear and Red-backed Shrike to name but a few. After a short while we had to return to the village, because it really was too hot!

In Letea we searched in vain for a café, where we wanted to drink a cold beer. Hereafter we returned to our boat relaxing under the canopy of the deck. The pleasure of relaxing, sipping coffee (or the occasional beer) and gliding past a succession of birds, cannot be over-emphasised.

On our way back we saw an European Nightjar, a species we certainly did not expect to find here and when we arrived in Maliuc we heard a calling Tawny Owl.

Monday May 11

Eventually it was time to board our boat back to Tulcea, it was our last day in the delta. Once again, there were various herons, egrets, cormorants and waterfowl. We saw a group of 70+ Eared Grebes on one of the large lakes. Other birds of note were Purple Heron, Great Bittern, Black Stork, Black Woodpecker, Lesser Whitethroat, Eurasian Penduline-Tit, Bearded Reedling, and of course we heard Thrush Nightingale everywhere. We were fortunate to have perfect weather during our whole trip in the delta.

At 18.45 hours we were in Tulcea and again checked into the Ibis Tours Guesthouse.

Tuesday May 12

Unfortunately today we had to pack our bags on to our car. After breakfast we left Tulcea and the Danube valley behind and drove back to Bucharest. A short stop along the Hasarlâc Lake added Ruddy Shelduck to our list and en route to the capital we saw our only Lesser Grey Shrike of the trip. In Bucharest we visited the palace of the parliament, the world's largest civilian administrative building designed and nearly completed by the Ceausescu regime. We enjoyed a final lunch before we caught the late afternoon flight back to Brussels. At 9.00 p.m. I was back in Chaam.

Romania has much to offer and, in my opinion, is one of the finest countries in the whole of Europe for birdwatching, in some remarkably unspoilt surroundings.

During our explorations in Romania we saw a lot of birds, but the most memorable event during our trip certainly occurred when three wolves were seen in the Carpathian Mountains and we could admire this magnificent mammals for a quarter of an hour.

My five best birds of the trip? Dalmatian Pelican, Ural Owl, Paddyfield Warbler, Pied Wheatear and Isabelline Wheatear. The final group total was 199 species. I had one lifer, Ural Owl, a species I wanted to see for many years.

Chaam, 20 July 2009

If you need any help or further information, contact me at the following address and I'll try and help if I can!

Jan Vermeulen
Bredaseweg 14
4861 AH Chaam
The Netherlands
Telephone: (031) – 161 – 491327
E-mail: jem.vermeulen@wxs.nl

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF BIRDS

This list follows the taxonomy, names and sequence of James F. Clements (Birds of the World, A Check List, Sixth Edition, 2007, including updates July 2007 – November 2008). This sixth edition is based primarily on the higher taxonomic sequence outlined in the “Handbook of the Birds of the World” series published by Lynx Edicions.

The Dutch names follow the translated "Complete Checklist of Birds of the World" (Complete Checklist van Vogels van de Wereld) of Michael Walters.

This list follows the taxonomy, names and sequence of the Mammal Data by BirdBase & BirdArea by Andrew Duff and Ann Lawson. Numbers quoted are estimates of the minimum numbers seen.

This systematic list follows the taxonomy, names and sequence of Reptiles and Amphibians by E.N. Arnold/J.A. Burton/D.W. Ovenden.

This systematc list follows the taxonomy, names and sequence of the Field Guide to the Butterflies of Britain and Europe by L.G. Higgins/N.D. Riley.

Western Europe	North America	Caribbean	Africa	Asia
Eastern Europe	South America	Australasia	Middle East	East Indies