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Birdwatching Trip Reports from South Africa
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A Birdwatchers
Calendar for the Wakkerstroom area of South Africa.
Introduction:
Birds have a great advantage over other wild animals - they can still be
found virtually anywhere and are not restricted to natural areas specially
set aside for them - not yet at any rate. South Africa’s grasslands are a
good example. Once teeming with antelope and other large mammals the
wildlife here is virtually restricted to dispirited herds of Blesbok (now
more often than not hybridised with Bontebok) and sometimes Black Wildebeest
and the odd Springbok or two. If you are VERY lucky you may see a Grey
Rhebuck, a Mountain Reedbuck, a Steenbok or even an Oribi. Generally our
grasslands are pretty much devoid of wildlife now - unless of course you are
a birder.
For bird watchers or birders as many prefer to call themselves, the
grasslands of south-eastern Mpumalanga provide a wealth of exciting
wildlife. More than 400 species occur regularly in South African grasslands.
Twenty-one, or more than half, of South Africa's 40 endemic birds, i.e.
birds that can be found nowhere else on Earth, can be found here. Twelve of
these are endemic to the grasslands themselves. A further 64 southern
African (Africa south of the Zambezi and Cunene rivers) endemics or near
endemics can also be found here.
Wakkerstroom, a sleepy little village nestled among the hills and wetlands
of the Mpumalanga / KwaZulu-Natal border country has capitalised on this
abundance of endemic bird life. From being an archetype no-hoper South
African country "dorp" on a slippery downhill economic slope the
town has a
fast growing if embryo tourism industry based entirely on it being in the
centre of one of the few remaining relatively pristine grassland areas of
the country. It is fast become a household name among international birders.
The town has a host of accommodation establishments ranging from the
relatively luxurious country hotel and lodge type accommodation through
B&B
and self-catering to caravan and camp sites.
A typical Wakkerstroom birding year runs something along the following
lines.
MAY, JUNE and JULY:
Provide some spectacular winter weather - crisp, sunny
days often without a cloud in the sky. The hills are sometimes covered with
a mantle of snow. The grassland plants have withdrawn their nutrients into
their root systems to protect themselves against the heavy frosts of winter.
The veld has become a kaleidoscope of soothing shades of yellow, brown,
mauve and even soft red - but they are pretty quiet months birding-wise.
Many species have left the high-lying areas for the warmer climes lower down
in KwaZulu-Natal.
Once the farmers start burning firebreaks along the road verges and
elsewhere they form a magnet for many birds attracted to exposed areas where
food is often easier to see than in the still long, but now dormant and
nutritionally poor grasses in the surrounding countryside. Here the winter
birder should look for Pink-billed Larks with their warm chestnut or rufous
underparts. Spike-heeled Larks, with their friendly, soft chattering, are
also common in the burnt areas. Occasionally the odd Botha’s Lark may be
tempted to put in an appearance here as well.
The pipits that one sees now are more likely to be Plain-backed Pipits as
the ubiquitous African or Grassveld Pipits have also decided to opt for
lower lying areas. The Sentinel Rock Thrushes that you see in the open
grassland are not the same individuals that occupy the rocky hillsides in
summer. These have also opted for warmer climes. They are visitors from the
Lesotho Highlands enjoying the relative warmth of a Wakkerstroom winter.
AUGUST:
Is the month to be on the lookout for large flocks of pre-breeding
Blue Cranes. Groups of 200 or more birds, reminiscent of days gone by before
this species, our national bird, became a globally threatened species,
gather in the fallow maize fields and grasslands. This is the time of year
for older pairs to strengthen pair bonds with their mates and for younger
birds to establish relationships that will last the rest of their lives.
Their dancing displays are truly a sight to behold leaving even the most
hardened individual moved by thoughts of the approaching Spring. Often they
are joined by a hundred or so spectacular Grey Crowned Cranes and a lonely
Wattled Crane or two.
Late August is the time when most farmers in the area begin burning parts of
their veld to stimulate good grass growth in anticipation of the first
Spring rains. This in turn stimulates the first breeding activity at the
cliff-side Southern Bald Ibis breeding colonies - yet another globally
threatened grassland endemic bird. Blue Korhaans suddenly become more
conspicuous and their resounding "knock-me-down" calls can be heard
all over
the veld.
SEPTEMBER and OCTOBER:
Are months of awakening in the Wakkerstroom
grasslands. The Southern Bald Ibis colonies become a hive of activity as
more and more birds establish nests, chicks start hatching and parent birds
are kept endlessly busy tending the needs of their young.
The first Yellow-breasted Pipits arrive back in the area. From mid-September
through to mid-March these otherwise little brown jobs appear on the higher
lying ground (mostly areas above 2 000 m) around Wakkerstroom. The
underparts of these birds - particularly the breasts and upper bellies -
become bright yellow and the birds indulge in loud and conspicuous display
flights.
The large crane flocks start breaking up into breeding pairs and smaller
groups of non-breeding birds.
Other altitudinal migrants are starting to put in an appearance once more.
Bush Blackcaps are re-colonising the forest patches on the moister
south-facing slopes of the escarpment. Black-winged Plovers join the flocks
of ubiquitous Crowned Plovers. Stanley’s Bustards are starting to put in an
appearance again. The lucky birder may see male birds giving their
spectacular displays on prominent hilltop spots. They puff out their chests
to such an extent that they seem to nearly double in size. This is done by
single male birds in complete silence, but the brilliant white feathers of
the much enlarged chest against the brilliant green background of the early
summer grass is visible for many kilometres and female birds can sometimes
be seen striding across the veld towards the distant hilltop display sites.
During the last week in October the hormones of the hitherto silent Rudd’s
Larks spur them on into starting the strange, somewhat guttural "purple
jeep" calls.
NOVEMBER:
Is the month when everything really hangs out in Wakkerstroom’s birding world. Rudd’s Lark, a somewhat cryptically coloured, inconspicuous bird which holds the unwelcome distinction of being South Africa’s most threatened bird suddenly becomes extremely conspicuous and easy to find. At this time the males indulge in fluttering display flights high above their chosen breeding territories. These flights can carry on for upwards of an hour and a half and many surprised birder has complained of "rain forest neck" in Mpumalanga’s grasslands! This species once occurred in primary mid-altitude grasslands (1 500 to 2 000 m. a.s.l.) along the Drakensberg Escarpment from northern Mpumalanga to the Eastern Cape. This habitat has been dramatically fragmented by agricultural activities and it has been estimated that 85% of the world population of Rudd’s Larks are now to be found within 100 km of Wakkerstroom.
Botha’s Lark is another equally cryptically coloured threatened species that is restricted to primary grasslands in the upper Vaal catchment from Wakkerstroom in the east to around Balfour in western Mpumalanga and Kroonstad in the Free State. While Botha’s Larks don’t indulge in any spectacular display flights they have a very pretty trilling call and become extraordinarily confiding during the breeding season. Wakkerstroom is one of the few areas where, during November each year, birders can be guaranteed of finding both Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks in the same field as their ranges are otherwise very separate.
DECEMBER THROUGH to MARCH:
Are also great birding months in the Wakkerstroom area although birders still wanting to see Rudd’s and Botha’s Larks should visit the area earlier rather than later during this period. All the other local "specials" are still present in abundance, however. Migrant birds from the Northern hemisphere are prominent at this time. Globally threatened Lesser Kestrels are often found among the many thousands of Amur (or Eastern Red-footed) Falcons that roost in the clumps of exotic trees dotted around the countryside. The falcons are essentially insectivorous and migrate from their breeding grounds in eastern Siberia and northern China through India to Africa. From India the birds fly straight out over the Indian Ocean probably making their first landfall on the African coast around Mombasa in Kenya - quite a feat for an insectivorous bird.
Hundreds of White Storks dot the open countryside at this time picking off the many insects in the ever-bountiful grassland. The lucky birder may also happen across Montagu’s and even Pallid Harrier here - both increasingly rare migrants from the north.
APRIL:
Is the month when everything starts quietening down again in preparation for the winter. Local altitudinal migrants have mostly left the Wakkerstroom area for their winter holidays nearer the coast. Like any time of year there is something for the keen birder in Wakkerstroom, however. This is the time to watch for spectacles such as large numbers of birds gathering in early April for the long migration back to their breeding grounds in Europe and Asia.
I hope that the above has served to whet some appetites. Whatever you do don't be put off coming to South Africa because of the unfortunate goings on in Zimbabwe. Not coming to South Africa because of this is akin to saying *There is trouble in Iceland so whatever you do don't go to the Shetlands!*
Wakkerstroom, South Africa