Malayan Night Heron	Light-vented Bulbul	Styan's Bulbul

A beautiful country with outstanding scenery and friendly people. Five days in northern Taiwan produced a list of 114 species including 12 endemic species and 30 endemic sub-species.

At the beginning of 2005 I saw a competition in Birdwatch magazine with the prize of an ‘all-expenses paid’ birding trip for two to Taiwan. I don’t normally enter competitions but the location sounded excellent and I could answer the questions, so I thought to myself ‘for the price of a stamp, let’s give it a go’. When a letter arrived in the mail telling me I’d won first prize I couldn’t believe my luck. My son, Ben, accompanied me on the trip.

Itinerary

Sunday   25 September      Evening flight from London Heathrow to Taipei via Bangkok
Monday 26 September       Late evening arrival (local time) Taipei. Overnight Taipei
Tuesday 27 September      Taipei Botanical Gardens, Guandu Nature Reserve and Yangmingshan National Park. Overnight Taipei
Wednesday 28 September  Pinglin area, Lanyang river mouth and Wu-wei-kang Water  Bird Reserve. Overnight Jiaosi Hot Springs
Thursday 29 September     AM travel, PM Taroko National Park. Overnight Sincheng
Friday 30 September         Taroko National Park. Overnight Guanyuan
Saturday 1 October            Taroko Nat. Park then to airport. Evening flight to Bangkok
Sunday 2 October               Flight from Bangkok to London Heathrow

General Information

Blue Rock Thrush	Alpine Accentor	Crested Serpent Eagle

In early 2005 I saw a competition in Birdwatch magazine with the first prize of a birding holiday for two in Taiwan (provided by the tourism department of the Taiwanese government). The prospect of some Asian birding and a good number of endemics prompted an entry and later delight when I received a letter from McClusky International telling me that I had won. I was put onto Ours Travel for the detailed arrangements and then onto our guide, Jane-Fuh Lu (Geoff), Assistant Professor in the Department of Tourism Management at the Chinese Cultural University, Taipei.

Flights were arranged through the Taiwanese airline Eva Air. The route was via Bangkok in both directions. The aircraft was fairly new and staff efficient and helpful. They were put to the test on the return leg as Typhoon Longwang was due to hit Taiwan on the morning of our departure. All flights on that day were cancelled and the airline re-scheduled our flight to the Saturday evening and provided accommodation in Bangkok till the scheduled departure to London. Everything worked like clockwork and I cannot praise them enough for their arrangements.

Geoff, our guide, was able to explain many aspects of natural history and local information and customs. He took us to some lovely areas and was a great help in restaurants where, outside Taipei, little English was spoken/written. His companionship throughout certainly enriched our trip.

Transport was with Geoff in his car, and a mixture of mid-range hotels, a B&B and a Hostel were used for accommodation. Most meals were Taiwanese style.

Generally, the weather was extremely pleasant, being around 86-90degrees during the day and upper 70’s at night. Most buildings had air-conditioning. It was a little cooler when we climbed up Taroko National Park to 3100 metres. We experienced a morning of rain at Pinglin and fled infront of the impending Typhoon on Saturday which turned out to be our last day.

For research we used ‘A Field Guide to the Birds of China’ by MacKinnon and Phillips which showed Taiwan on the range maps. We had been provided with a list of possible sightings by Geoff in advance, and whilst with him he carried a Field Guide to the Birds of Taiwan written in Chinese and not available in English. This proved to be a super book as the illustrations were of races found on Taiwan. Bird names were a slight headache as the European and Chinese names for quite a few species differed.

More details can be obtained by contacting me on ‘alanmiller@electric-magic.co.uk’

Taiwan Blue Magpie	Vinaceous Rosefinch	Scaly-breasted Munia

Daily Highlights

Sunday 25th September

We departed Heathrow airport just after 10pm, a little later than scheduled. We flew with Eva Air to Taiwan via a brief stop at Bangkok.

Monday 26th September

We arrived at Taipei airport at 9.30pm local time and met Geoff, our guide and companion for the trip. We were taken to our hotel, the Aristocrat, in central Taipei and after a discussion of plans for the trip we went straight to bed.

Tuesday 27th September

We met Geoff at 6am and were taken straight to Taipei Botanical Gardens. Our first sightings were of Japanese White-eye and Light-vented (Chinese) Bulbuls. We soon connected with a pair of Crested Goshawk in the trees before locating the star of the Gardens, Malayan Night-Heron. We saw two birds feeding in the open close to dozens of people doing early morning exercises! We also found an unexpected treat in the form of a migrant Japanese Paradise-Flycatcher.

After returning to the hotel for a quick breakfast we continued to Guandu Nature Park where sightings included Black Drongo, Scaly-Breasted Munia, Brown Shrike, Long-tailed Shrike, feral Sacred Ibis, and Common Kingfisher. On the nearby Danshuei River we added Osprey, Whiskered Tern and Little, Intermediate and Great White Egrets.

In the afternoon we headed to Yangmingshan National Park and walked the 3.4km round-trip trail from Datun to Erzihping. Here we heard our first Crested Serpent Eagle and sightings included Rufous-capped Tree Babbler and Streak-breasted Scimitar-Babbler. It was dark when we got back to the car. By the time we had eaten enroute back to the hotel it was straight to bed.

Wednesday 28th September

On the road just after 6am and we headed to a valley near Pinglin. The morning was showery but warm.

We connected with our first Taiwanese endemic, Taiwan Blue Magpie. Further along the valley we soon found our second, Taiwan Whistling Thrush. Other sightings included Grey Treepie, Grey-chinned Minivet, Grey-cheeked Fulvetta, Black-browed Barbet, Plumbeous Water Redstart, Brown Dipper and Crested Serpent Eagle.

Our next stop was the Lanyang river mouth where we turned up a good range of shorebirds including Terek Sandpiper, Bar-tailed Godwit, Kentish Plover, Sanderling, Dunlin, Mongolian Sandplover and Red-necked Stint. We also saw Little Tern and Gull-billed Tern, and our only gull of the trip a Mongolian Gull.

Our last stop of the day was at Wu-wei-kang Water Bird Reserve. On the water we added Spot-billed Duck, Common Teal, White-breasted Waterhen and Moorhen whilst in the trees along the path to the hides we found Black-naped Blue Monarch along with a migrant Grey-Streaked Flycatcher and another Japanese Paradise-Flycatcher.

We then drove back to Jiaosi Hot Springs for supper and bed.

Thursday 29th September

We were on the road at 9am for the drive to Taroko National Park. Enroute we added Pacific Swallow and Oriental Pratincole to the trip list before arriving at 12.45pm.

We had Taiwan Beef Noodle Soup for lunch before driving up through the gorge to about 2000 metres elevation. We started ticking more endemics; Styan’s (Taiwan) Bulbul, Taiwan Yuhina, Steer’s Liocichla and White-eared Sibia. The supporting cast included Indian Black Eagle, Collared Finchbill, Ferruginous Flycatcher, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Blue Rock Thrush and Rufous-faced Flycatcher Warbler.

As darkness fell we descended the mountain to our accommodation in Sincheng.

Friday 30th September

This was our favourite day. We set off just after 5.30am on a glorious morning to drive the length of the National Park up to the summit pass at Hohuan mountain, about 3100 metres above our starting point at sea level.

With a clear sky and brilliant sunshine the scenery was absolutely stunning. We ticked-off similar species to the day before but added White-throated Needletail, Bronzed Drongo, Fire-breasted Flowerpecker and Little Forktail. We also had a surprise in finding two Spotted Nutcrackers. We heard another endemic, Taiwan Hill Partridge and had a two Chinese Bamboo Partridges walk across the road infront of us and show well in the undergrowth next to the road. We also had super views of Crested Serpent Eagle saw on a roadside tree stump

At 2000 metres we set off on foot along Mount Yangtou trail. It was an interesting experience as the gradient through the forest was steep enough to require knotted ropes and wooden ladders to assist us. The effort was worthwhile as we soon found our next endemic, Taiwan Barwing. We also connected with Green-Backed Tit.

Back on the road upwards to the road crest viewpoint with more stops we added Taiwan (White-whiskered) Laughing Thrush, Taiwan Scrub Warbler, Collared Bush Robin, Vinaceous Rosefinch and Yellowish-bellied (Verraux’s) Bush Warbler.

By the time we had reached the top it was misty and cooler. As dusk fell we descended to 2000 metres to our accommodation for the night, Guanyun Hostel. We ate a typical Chinese meal before retiring for the night

Saturday 1st October

Packing the car at 6am ‘crests’ could be heard in the conifers surrounding the car park. Benjamin soon found our last endemic, Flamecrest (Taiwan Firecrest).

We continued to the summit which was much colder and very windy. We ticked Alpine Accentor in the car park before descending down the western side of Hohuan mountain towards the more inhabited west part of the island. New birds on the descent included Streak-throated Fulvetta, Ashy-headed Wood Pigeon, White-tailed Robin and White-bellied Green Pigeon.

Whilst descending a message was received from the airline that our flight to Bangkok had been re-scheduled due to the impending arrival of Typhoon Longwang and brought forward to 10.30pm that night. We considered our options and decided to have a bit more time birding before making the long drive straight to the airport. Our last night’s accommodation was cancelled. We birded around Wu-sir and Puli then headed for the airport. As we neared the airport we ran into wind and rain but managed to arrive before the worst of the weather.

We unloaded our belongings and then packed in the airport Departure area. We said our thanks and fond farewells to Geoff before booking in. We departed Taiwan at 10.50pm.

Sunday 2nd October

We arrived at Bangkok airport at 2.15am. Eva Air staff  were on-hand to shepherd us to a bus and we were taken to a central hotel where we had a bed for the night, or what was left of it. We were woken at 7am, had showers and a good breakfast before being returned to the airport. The flight from Bangkok flew in the scheduled slot and we arrived at Heathrow at 7pm.

Postscript

We later learnt that the typhoon killed one person, injured 46 others and 500,000 homes suffered power cuts. Taiwan was also hit by an earthquake measuring 5.4 on the Richter Scale that Sunday morning.

SIGHTINGS

(E)-       Endemic species
(essp) – Endemic sub-species

1. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea – seen regularly around water. Max 40 on 28th

2. Great Egret Egretta alba –  6 at Guandu on 27th ,4 at Lanyang river on 28th & 6 near Puli on 1st.

3. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia – 2 at Guandu on 27th,2 at Lanyang river on 28th ,1 near Jiaosi Hot Springs on 29th & 6 near Puli on 1st

4. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis – seen regularly. Max 42 on 28th 

5. Little Egret Egretta garzetta – seen regularly. Max 42 on 28th and 1st

6. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax – 2 at Taipei Botanical Gardens & 2 at Guandu on 27th. 2 at Lanyang river and 2 at Wu-wei-kang Water Bird Reserve on 28th

7. Malayan Night Heron  Gorsachius melanolophus – 2 at Taipei Bot. Gdns on 27th.

8. Common Teal Anas crecca – 1 at Guandu on 27th & 43 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

9. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos – 2 at Guandu on 28th, 5 near Jiaosi Hot Spr. on 30th

10. Spotbill Duck Anas poecilorhyncha – 2 at Guandu on 27th, 100 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th  & 3 near Puli on 1st

11. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela hoya (essp) – 1 near Pinglin on 28th, 1 enroute Taroko on 29th and one in Taroko N.P. on 30th

12. Indian Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis – 1 in Taroko N.P. on 29th, 3 single bird sightings in Taroko N.P. on 30th

13. Kestrel Falco tinnunculus – 1 on 30th & 2 on 1st in Taroko N.P.

14. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus formosae (essp) – 2 in Taipei Bot. Gdns on 27th, 1 near Pinglin on 28th & 3 enroute Taroko on 29th

15. Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus – 2 in Taroko N.P. on 30th

16. Osprey Pandion haliatus – 1 at Guandu on 27th & 1 at Lanyang River on 28th

17. Chinese Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola thoracica sonorivox (essp) –  2 in Taroko N.P.on 30th 

18. Taiwan Hill Partridge Arborophila crudigularis (E) – Heard in Taroko N.P. on 30th

19. White-breasted Water Hen Amaurornis Phoenicurus – 2 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th   

20. Moorhen Gallinula chloropus – 4 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

21. Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum – 10 enroute Taroko on 29th

22. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius – 4 at Guandu on 27th & 6 near Puli on 1st 

23. Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus – 20 at Lanyang river on 28th 

24. Sanderling Calidris alba – 4 at Lanyang river on 28th

25. Mongolian Sandplover Charadrius [mongolus] mongolus – 1 Lanyang river on 28th 

26. Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus – 1 at Lanyang river on 28th 

27. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica - 1 at Lanyang river on 28th 

28. Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus - 1 at Lanyang river on 28th 

29. Redshank Tringa totanus - 1 at Lanyang river on 28th 

30. Greenshank Tringa nebularia – 1 at Guandu on 27th & 2 at Lanyang river on 28th 

31. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus – 3 near Puli on 1st

32. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola – 1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th  & 12 near Puli on 1st

33. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos – 1 at Guandu on 27th, 1 at Lanyang river on 28th  & 3 near Puli on 1st

34. Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis - 4 at Lanyang river on 28th

35. Dunlin Calidris alpina – 2 at Lanyang river on 28th 

36. Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus – 12 feral/introduced birds at Guandu on 27th  

37. Mongolian Gull Larus [cachinnans] mongolicus – 1 at Lanyang river on 28th 

38. Little Tern Sterna albifrons – 20 at Lanyang river on 28th 

39. Common Tern Sterna hirundo longpensis – 2 at Lanyang river on 28th 

40. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica – 2 at Lanyang river on 28th

41. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida – 2 at Guandu on 27th 

42. Feral Pigeon Columba livia (domest.) – Seen daily

43. Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis – 4 at Taroko on 29th & 1 near Puli on 1st

44. White-bellied Green Pigeon Treron sieboldii sororius (essp) – 11 near Puli on 1st

45. Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis orii (essp) – Common. Max. 12 on 27th 

46. Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica – 1 at Guandu on 27th ,6 Puli on 1st

47. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis – Seen regularly. Max 12 on 28th

48. House Swift Apus affinis – Seen regularly. Max 20 on 30th

49. Pacific Swift Apus pacificus – 6 at Taroko N.P. on 29th

50. White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus – 2 at Taroko N.P. on 30th

51. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis – 1 at Guandu on 27th

52. Black-browed Barbet Megalaima oorti nuchalis (essp)– >3 seen daily

53. White-backed Woodpecker Picoides leucotes insularis (essp) – Heard Taroko 30th  

54. Plain Martin Riparia paludicola – 10 near Puli on 1st 

55. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica – Seen regularly. Max 20 on 28th 

56. Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitaci – Seen daily at Taroko. Max 6 on 29th & 1st

57. Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata – 4 near Puli on 1st 

58. Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus – Seen daily at Taroko. Max 14 on 29th

59. White (Amur) Wagtail Motacilla alba leucopsis – 1 on 29th & 3 on 30th at Taroko. 4 on 1st near Puli

60. Eastern Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [tschutschensis/flava] (mainly taivana) –  2 at Guandu on 27th, 10 at Lanyang river on 28th & 4 near Puli on 1st 

61. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea – Seen daily. Max 9 on 30th

62. Winter Wren Troglodytes troglodytes taivanus (essp) – 1 at Taroko on 29th & 30th  

63. Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii – 2 near Pinglin on 28th

64. Grey-chinned Minivet Pericrocotus solaris –2 nr Pinglin on 28th. 7 at Taroko on 30th

65. Collared Finchbill Spizixos semitorques cinereicapillus (essp) –  2 at Taroko on 29th & 5 near Puli on 1st

66. Light-vented (Chinese) Bulbul Pycnonotus sinensis formosae (essp)– Seen daily. Max 20 on 28th. Some evidence seen of hybridisation with Styan’s Bulbul in Taroko NP

67. Styan’s Bulbul Pycnonotus taivanus (E) – 4 at Taroko on 29th & 30th

68. Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus nigerrimus (essp) –    2 at Taipei Bot. Gdns on 27th & 6 at Taroko on 29th 

69. Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus – 4 at Guandu on 27th, 1 at Jiaosi Hot Springs on 29th & 2 near Puli on 1st

70. Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach – 1 at Guandu on 27th

71. Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris fennelli (essp) - 3 at Taroko on 1st

72. Collared Bush Robin Erithacus johnstoniae (E) – 4 at Taroko on 30th & 1st

73. Plumbeous Water Redstart Phoenicurus fuliginosus affinis (essp) – 1 near Pinglin on 28th & 14 at Taroko on 30th

74. White-tailed Blue Robin Cinclidium leucurum montium (essp) – 1 near Puli on 1st

75. Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius philippensis –  1 at Taroko on 30th & 4 near Puli on 1st

76. Taiwan Whistling Thrush Myiophoneus insularis (E) –1 near Pinglin on 28th & 2 in Taroko on 30th 

77. Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys erythrocnemis (essp) – Heard on 27th & 28th

78. Streak-breasted Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis musicus (essp) – 2 at Yangmingshan (Erzihping) on 27th

79. Rufous-capped Tree Babbler Stachyris ruficeps praecognita (essp) – 4 at Yangmingshan (Erzihping) on 27th,1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th  & 1 at Taroko on 29th

80. White-bellied Yuhina Yuhina zantholeuca – 1 near Pinglin on 28th

81. Taiwan Yuhina Yuhina brunneiceps (E) – Seen daily at Taroko. Max 17 on 30th

82. White-whiskered (Taiwan) Laughing Thrush Garrulax morrisoniana (E) –   4 on 30th & 1 on 1st at Taroko

83. Steer’s Liocichla Liocichla steerii (E) – 2 -29th & 5 -30th at Taroko. 4 on 1st near Puli

84. Grey-cheeked Fulvetta Alcippe morrisonia morrisonia (essp) –12 at Yangmingshan on 27th & 20 near Pinglin on 28th

85. Streak-throated Fulvetta Alcippe cinereiceps formosana (essp) – 2 nr. Taroko on 1st

86. White-eared Sibia Heterophasia auricularis (E) - >4 on 28th, 29th & 30th at Taroko

87. Taiwan Barwing Actinodura morrisoniana (E) – 4 at Taroko on 30th

88. Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri – 2 at Taroko on 30th

89. Yellowish-bellied (Varreaux’s) Bush Warbler Cattia acanthizoides concolor (essp)  – 6 at Taroko on 30th

90. Taiwan Bush Warbler Bradypterus alishanensis (E) – 1 at Taroko on 30th

91. Plain (Tawny-flanked) Prinia Prinia inornata flavirostris (essp) – 3 near Puli on 1st

92. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris – heard at Guandu on 27th

93. Rufous-faced Flycatcher Warbler Abroscopus albogularis – 6 on 29th & 2 on 30th at Taroko

94. Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis – 1 at Yangmingshan on 27th. 1 near Pinglin & 1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

95. Flamecrest (Taiwan Firecrest) Regulus goodfellowi (E) – 1 at Taroko on 1st

96. Ferruginous Flycatcher Muscicapa ferruginea –1 at Taroko on 29th & 1 near Puli on 1st

97. Grey-streaked Flycatcher Muscicapa griseisticta - 1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

98. Black-naped Blue Monarch Hypothymis azurea oberholseri (essp) – 1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

99. Japanese Paradise-flycatcher Terpsiphone atrocaudata – 1 at Taipei Bot. Gdns on 27th & 1 at Wu-wei-kang on 28th 

100. Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus inseperatus (essp) – 2 at Taroko on 29th

101. Coal Tit Parus ater ptilosus (essp) – 1 at Taroko on 30th & 1st

102. Eurasian Nuthatch Sitta europaea - 1 at Taroko on 30th & 1st

103. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus formosum (essp) – 1 at Taroko on 29th

104. Japanese White-eye Zosterops japonica – Seen daily. Max 30 on 29th

105. Vinaceous Rosefinch Carpodacus vinaceus formosanus (essp) –14 on 30th & 8 on 1st at Taroko

106. Scaly-breasted Munia (Nutmeg Mannikin) Lonchura punctulata – 4 at Guandu on 27th & 16 near Puli on 1st

107. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus – Seen daily. Max 42 on 1st near Puli

108. Crested Myna Acridotheres cristatellus –   4 at Taipei on 27th, 4 at Taroko on 30th & 6 near Puli on 1st

109. Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocerus harterti (essp) >6 seen daily except in high alt.

110. Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus braunianus (essp) – 1 at Taroko on 30th

111. Taiwan Blue Magpie Urocissa caerulea (E) – 8 near Pinglin on 28th

112. Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae formosae (essp) – 12 near Pinglin on 28th

113. Large-billed Crow Corvus macrorhynchos - >4 seen at Taroko on 29th, 30th & 1st

114. Spotted Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes owstoni (essp) – 2 at Taroko on 30th

NB1. Ben also recorded Little Grebe, White-rumped Munia and Yellow-browed Warbler

NB2. All pictures taken by myself except Malayan Night Heron which was taken by Ben.