Introduction

Consolidated Species List

My wife had the choice of where we holidayed at Christmas this year and chose Thailand – I was quietly delighted.  We booked independently through the Travel Councillors who dealt with our flight arrangements, transfers and accommodation.  Although I was constantly reminded that "I had done quite a lot of birding this year, and this was not a birding holiday"; the chance to see Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Nordman's Greenshank, White-faced Plover and Malaysian Plover was an opportunity that could not be missed.  Consequently I booked a couple of birdguides before I arrived in Thailand (2 in the Bangkok area and one in Krabi when we headed south to Phuket for the second half of the holiday). I will not enter into costs, it's for you to negotiate what you wish to pay and for what sort of day out you want.  In any event, my first trip to Thailand and a non-birding holiday resulted in a fairly successful trip.  I accepted before my departure that it was not the best time of the year for Pittas; however the waders were my main focus.  I had no intention of driving in Thailand and being situated in the centre of China Town (the busiest part of town for traffic jams); I think I made the right decision.  For those wishing to drive, select a hotel a little out of town to avoid the numerous and frequent traffic jams, ensuring that you do not have to transit Bangkok if you can avoid it.

Nick Upton’s web page provides some excellent pre trip information along with many contacts and site information and I recommend you visit it at: http://www.thaibirding.com

Day 1 – 18 Dec

We flew from Heathrow and with the heavyish snow fall and the ability of the UK to get wrapped around the axle over it, we had to quickly rehash our travel arrangements and get to the airport by taxi, train and tube as opposed to driving as planned.  In any event we departed on time and flew overnight arriving in Bangkok and the Grand China Princess Hotel in the heart of China Town at about 1730 the next day.

Day 2 – 19 Dec

Arriving in the evening in Bangkok, after a shower we explored the local area and enjoyed our first seafood street food that was excellent and very cheap.  A couple of beers later and it was off to bed. 

Day 3 – 20 Dec

Despite a couple of beers it did not cure the jetlag and we were awake very early.  After breakfast we departed for the weekend market at Chatuchak.  Before the onset of a round of mental shopping and bartering, the nearby Suan Rot Fei Park afforded an opportunity to catch up with some common Bangkok birds.  The park provided good views of Olive-backed Sunbird, Chinese Pond Heron a couple of Taiga Flycatchers, Pied Fantails and several other common city birds but the only Black-hooded Oriole of the trip. 

Later that day we caught the underground from the market to Limphini Park, where besides more views of the commoner birds there was an opportunity to catch up with a few others that I had noted on previous trip reports.  Indeed, as others had previously noted, this was the only place where I caught up with Black-collared Starlings and Asian Pied Mynahs.  The site of a monitor lizard eating a fish that it had caught was also quite a spectacle.  By now it was becoming dark, so we made for the nearby night market where we also ate some more excellent Thai cuisine for dinner.  Many thanks also to Andy Howes for some useful Bangkok information.

Day 4 – 21 Dec

Before departing the UK, I had booked an excursion to the Bridge on the River Kwai with City-discovery.com.  We were picked up at 0600 and preceded to the Bridge in an air conned coach.  Along the roadside, numerous Black Drongos, Little and Great White Egrets were seen along with several Indian Rollers.

At the bridge I had good views of several Red-collared Doves, another Taiga Flycatcher whilst in the Kanchanaburi Military Cemetery I found a couple of Oriental Pipits, Zebra Doves and four Sooty-headed Bulbuls.  An Ashy Wood Swallow also put in an appearance on a nearby telephone line.

Sooty-headed Bulbul

We drove to Nam Tok train station to catch the train back to the bridge via Hell Fire Pass and the coach for the journey back to Bangkok.  At the station I saw two Thick-billed Flowerpeckers and a small group of Black-headed Bulbuls.  From the train, several Indian Rollers, a Blue-tailed Bee-eater and two Little Green Bee-eaters were noted.

An early evening arrival at the hotel gave us ample time for a couple of beers, a shower, some more great street food, another couple of beers and a good night's sleep.  All in all, a really enjoyable day albeit with limited birding opportunities.

Day 5 – 22 Dec

I had booked Peter Ericsson (email: pkknjj@yahoo.com), today for a trip to Pak Thale and Lam Phak Bia Sand Spit with Mr Daeng – a local fisherman.  Peter had been recommended from a trip report that I had read and he proved to be a very able birder and great company.  My wife accompanied us today and although very bored at the saltpans, she did experience a bit of local culture, see the country and enjoy an excellent lunch provide by Mrs Daeng – thank you.  The obvious and most pressing aim being to see Spoon-billed Sandpiper at the now most reliable wintering site in Thailand.

The day started at the King’s Mangrove Project near to Pak Thale wader site with a flyover Peregrine.  At the mangroves and reed beds, several Ruddy-breasted Crakes were seen, Common and Pintail Snipes, numerous waders including Marsh Sandpiper, Pacific Golden Plover, Red-wattled Lapwing and Long-toed Stint.  An Oriental Reed Warbler was seen in the reeds and two Dusky Warblers flitted about.  Both Great White and Intermediate Egrets were present allowing for easy discrimination but separating Javan and Chinese Pond Herons was still proving problematic.

Intermediate Egret

We proceeded to Pak Thale where the search for Spoon-billed Sandpiper ensued.  After about four hours, and several thousand waders later, with time pushing on, it was necessary to give up the search in order to guarantee seeing the other target waders.  On leaving Pak Thale, obviously disappointed I reflected that it had been a whose-who of waders including Marsh, Terek, Common, Broad-billed, and Curlew Sandpipers, Long-toed and Red-necked Stints, Kentish, Grey, Lesser and Greater Sand Plovers, Black-tailed and Bar-tailed Godwits, Eurasian Curlew, numerous Terns and two flyover Painted Storks, proving that despite the obvious omission Pak Thale is an exceptional site to spend time at.

We drove to another area of saltpans where a large roost had formed.  The roost included one of the target birds, with circa fifty Nordman’s Greenshanks, sixty Great Knots, numerous Common Greenshanks and several Caspian Terns amongst the Brown-headed Gulls.  After carefully noting the relevant ID features of the Nordman’s we departed for lunch – which was an authentic Thai meal prepared by Mrs Daeng.

The boat trip along the mangroves provided fleeting views of Black-capped and Collared Kingfisher before arriving at the sand spit, to be greeted by a dark phase Pacific Reef Egret.  We walked gingerly along the beach flushing a pair of Malaysian Plovers and then saw a loan wader.  We approached a little closer and scoped what proved to be a male White-faced Plover, apparently holding territory.  The ID features were clear and easy to pick out on this individual with an obvious black eye in a white face lacking any black or dusky areas on the lores, coupled with the collar head and overall light colour.  With Kentish Plovers to compare the individual against, it was an ideal opportunity.  The bird was very skittish and eventually flew off, not to be found again during my visit.  We scoped yet more beautiful male and female Malaysian Plovers, however were still missing one of our quarry.  We retuned to the boat, when a largish Egret flew out of the mangroves and landed on some distant rocks.  A quick rethink and bail out of the boat ensured that I scoped the Chinese Egret and left the sand spit extremely happy.

Stopping on the roadside along the Thung Bahng drainage channel and fields on the way back to Bangkok gave an opportunity to catch up with some noteworthy birds including a male and female Plain-backed Sparrow at the nest, another Oriental Reed Warbler, a couple of Black-eared Kites and a Pink-necked Pigeon.  An egret that flew out of the reeds was the most definite (as you can be) example of a Javan Pond Heron that I saw that day.  The only Long-tailed Shrike of the holiday was seen and a Greater Coucal clumsily made for a near by bush.  A small flock of Baya Weavers and a Siberian Stonechat concluded the day’s excitement.

Day 6 – 23 Dec

I had booked a day out with Nature Trails Thailand (ntrails@truemail.co.th) via Patcharee and my guide for the day was Ms Sukanya Thanombuddha who proved to be good company, with a good sense of humour, impeccable spoken English skills and above all a very competent birder.  Having dipped on the Sandpiper the previous day at Pak Thale with Peter, I was extremely glad that I had worked in a contingency day and had a second bite at the cherry.  Another early morning pick-up at 0600 and we were soon speeding south to Samutsakhon and the famous saltpans.  Having searched through several thousand Red-necked Stints, Lesser Sand Plovers, Long-toed Stints broken up by a lone Great Knot without success, I was beginning to feel a little edgy.  Sukanya then received a phone call and said that the lone Spoon-billed Sandpiper had been found sleeping by whom other than the legendary Mr T.

Spoon-billed Sandpiper

We quickly returned to the vehicle and sped about a kilometre down the road where Mr T greeted us.  After frantically setting up the scope I was soon on the bird.  Shortly after it started preening and there in all of its glory was the spatulate-shaped bill.  I moved closer to digiscope it – a fantastic moment with a bird that I had wanted to see for some time.  I concur with others in that, if you wish to enhance your chances of seeing the Spoonie, employ the services of Mr T.

Delighted, we moved on to a nearby temple where the monks harvested the nests of Gremain’s (Eddible nest) Swiftlets for Bird’s Nest Soup (what else)?  Having achieved the aim of the day we moved onto to Mahachai Mangrove Research Station.  Several good birds were encountered and photographed here with several others heard only.  The list of mangrove specialities included Golden-bellied Gerygone, Mangrove Whistler, Collared Kingfishers, several Oriental White-eyes, a Green-billed Malkoha and a small family group of Racket-tailed Treepies.

                      
Mangrove Whistler                                     Golden-bellied Gerygone

After a very enjoyable lunch of Tom Yam soup and Chilli Squid we moved along the Rama II road pulling off to view several wetland areas.  Five beautiful Grey-headed Lapwings gave themselves up along with a Yellow Bittern, the only Asian Openbill of the trip, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas whilst in the reeds, acceptable views of Black-browed Reed Warbler, Yellow-bellied Prinia and Blunt-winged Warbler were gained.

Grey-headed Lapwing

Before returning to Bangkok for 1800 several Streak-eared Bulbuls, White-rumped and Scaly-breasted Munias were noted in roadside scrub.

Day 7 – 24 Dec

An early morning departure from the hotel saw us catching the 0955 flight to Phuket, arriving at about 1000 and transferring to our hotel in Patong (which was a shock)!  Having arrived in the Ayia Napa of Thailand, I wasn’t particularly enamoured to be there and I advise others to avoid the place like the plague and select an area to the south such as Kata or Karong Hill.  In any event the hotel was set back and quiet which was a relief; however it was clear that birding was going to be difficult in the area and I was pleased that I had booked a day in Krabi for the 29^th Dec.

Even so, an immediate lifer in the hotel grounds in the form of several Yellow-vented Bulbuls cheered my up.  The ever-present Common Mynahs became irritating whilst a few Common Tailorbirds and Olive-backed Sunbirds revealed themselves.  A walk along the street gave me the opportunity to view some Pacific Swallows and a colony of Little Swifts, nest building under a hotel overhang.

 
Yellow-vented Bulbul

A quiet day today, however not wishing to have a “blank” day I managed to walk into the hills where I was pleased to find a Grey Wagtail, Besra, a soaring Oriental Honey Buzzard and finally a lifer in the form of a Red-eyed Bulbul.

Day 9 – 26 Dec

We had been given a complimentary Phuket tour today, which we had taken knowing that it would include the equivalent of Turkish rug shops etc.  It did, however, some of the places we visited did afford some birding opportunities and I saw a female Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, several Brown Shrikes, a couple of Common Buzzard, the only Black-nest Swiftlet and a group of what appeared to be nothing more interesting than Red-rumped Swallows.  An afternoon at leisure and a few Singapore Slings, fitted in well with my wife’s plans.

Day 10 – 27 Dec

We did the tourist trip today, wishing to visit Phangnga and (James Bond Island) on a boat trip.  Although the birding was not prolific, I noted an Orange-bellied Flowerpecker before boarding the boat.  Throughout the trip Brahminy Kites were very common and two White-bellied Sea Eagles were seen.  On the island itself, two Pacific Reef Egrets and a cracking male Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker was recorded.  On stopping at Lawa Island on the return voyage, a Forest Wagtail and Asian Brown Flycatcher put in an appearance and a surprise lifer – three Olive-winged Bulbuls that I was not expecting.

Day 11 – 28 Dec

I took an early morning walk to Karon hill today and started at the Meridian Hotel.  This area looks like a much better place to stay for a bit of casual birding.  The walk gave opportunities to see White-breasted Kingfisher, Asian Koel, Grey Wagtails a White-breasted Waterhen and in a private Hill Resort a little down the hill towards Patong a pair of Streak-throated Bulbuls, so I managed to avoid another blank day.  We spent the remainder of the day by the pool reading and supping a few more cocktails (Mange Tout Rodney – Mange Tout).

Day 12 – 29 Dec

I had booked a day out in the Krabi area before I left the UK with Tony "Eagle-eye" from his Website at: Thailand Bird Watching (info@thailandbirdwatching.com).  The day began with a trip through the Krabi mangroves with Mr Dai, where many Brown-winged Kingfishers were seen.  A White-bellied Sea Eagle sat above us and two Dollarbirds were seen sat motionless on lookout points.  A couple of Ruby-cheeked Sunbirds were seen and a Greater Racket-tailed Drongo flew over us.  A Vernal Hanging Parrot perched on a dead snag but try as we may; the Mangrove Pitta remained a heard only record.

We proceeded to the mouth of the estuary to some sand bars on which many Greater Sand Plovers sat along with at least 50 Lesser Crested Terns and about the same number of Black-naped Terns.  An Osprey watched us from atop one of the fishing pens and eight Whimbrels were noted along with a Great White Egret and a Javan Pond Heron.  As we departed the boat, the only Asian Glossy Starling was noted in Krabi town on top of a TV aerial.

 
Lesser Crested Tern

We departed for lunch on route to Khao Nor Chu Chi (KNC) Forest and reserve.  As previously mentioned this was never going to be the optimum time of year to see Pittas and so it proved.  However, the afternoon was productive although in true forest fashion slow and hard work most of the time, interspersed with periods of immense activity.  One such moment bought a mixed flock including a Crow-billed Drongo, Chestnut-headed Babbler, Chestnut-winged Babbler, Rufous Piculet, two Chestnut-bellied Malkohas, an Asian Paradise Flycatcher and a Black-naped Monarch.  A little further along the track a pair of Little Spiderhunters was seen.  As we continued further a pair of Thick-billed Spiderhunters were seen and a single Vernal Hanging Parrot zipped by.  Whilst returning to the vehicle at least seven Grey-rumped Treeswift flew low overhead.

Thinking the day was over I was treated to a Javan Frogmouth sat in the open after a little coaxing, near KNC at a place called Ron Falls (I think).  It was a stakeout that Tony had discovered previously.  A long journey back to Patong saw me arrive at the hotel at about 2100, just in time for "tea and medals" – well the Thai equivalent – street food and Singha beer.  

Day 13 – 30 Dec

This was our final full day and it was spent enjoying a couple of massages and beers, relaxing, before flying home the following day.  No new birds were added as a result, however it did keep the peace and compromise was gained between birding and family imperatives.

Day 14 – 31 Dec

Liking to start early when returning home to avoid just waiting in a hotel, we departed at 0500 took the early morning flight to Bangkok and arrived in Heathrow via EVA Airlines at about 1930 local time.  Just in time to flake, exhausted before missing seeing the New Year in.  The last bird seen in Thailand was a small group of Tree Sparrows at Bangkok Airport.

Consolidated Species List 

      

Oriental White Eye 

Summary

The aim was achieved – Spoon-billed Sandpiper!  It was never going to be the best time to visit Thailand with the Pittas not calling, however a fantastic country to bird in with plenty of opportunities for the birdwatcher on a family holiday.  The street food is not to be missed.  Cheap, fresh and very tasty, we encountered no stomach upsets or any other difficulties through eating (every day) in this way – I recommend it!  If you wish to target the Pittas etc, do your homework and visit at the right time of year, however, if you happen to be in Thailand there are plenty of other birds to enjoy as you also enjoy the country, culture and cuisine.