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A Report from

Bangkok, Thailand May 2004,

Hanno Stamm

Unlike last year, this was primarily a shopping trip to Bangkok for all the things I cannot get in Vietnam (shoes in particular). However, I had agreed with my girlfriend that I could sneak away for a short time to get some bird watching in.  Below a brief outline, "*" indicates lifers.

Lumpini Park on the 6th of May 2004

This is the largest park in Bangkok, right in the center and close to a Sky train station. Even at 05:30 in the morning, and with the occasional downpour, the place was humming. Literally hundreds of people jogging, practicing Tai Chi and sword fight, or just chilling out. My first thought was "no way are you going to see any birds here!" However, within a few steps, I was proven wrong. Magpie Robins where everywhere, and tame as you please, even if they had a hard time making themselves heard against the constant Bangkok noise. The handful of Large-billed Crows where quieter, but still very evident.

Common and White-vented Mynas were all over the grass, joined by the odd Black-collared and AsianPiedStarlings. A CommonKoel gave excellent views in a bare tree, even better were the numerous CoppersmithBarbets. Whilst the latter are fairly common here in Vietnam, I do not believe that I ever had such magnificent views as I did in this park. A couple of AlexandrineParakeets* were very conspicuous. I first dismissed them as escapes, but heard later from Peter Ericsson that they might truly be wild birds, seeking a last refuge in an area where there are still some tall(ish) trees left. A Little Egret looked somewhat out of place in the middle of an artificial pond, whereas the Zebra Dove appeared to be more at home. Streak-eared Bulbuls were plentiful, but still outdone by the Eurasian Tree Sparrows. Regrettably, it started pouring in earnest, so I beat a retreat to the hotel for a much-deserved cup of coffee.

Greater Bangkok on the 7th of May 2004

I had arranged to meet Peter Ericsson near his house. Peter is a missionary, and an excellent birder. He is not a bird guide per se, but for a contribution to his charitable work, and time permitting, he will take birders out (Contact him at We had agreed to meet at 05:30, yet another early start. Encountered a few problems getting there: I had trouble waking up, even more trouble to wake up my girlfriend, and then get transport to the meeting point. A taxi was in theory organized, but when the driver got to the hotel, he decided that he didn't know where to go. We hailed a second taxi, this particular driver decided in the middle of nowhere that he was lost, and chucked us out!! Finally managed to get a third taxi, and that actually took us where we wanted to go. And all that without coffee. Ah, the joys of birding!!!

Well, we did manage to meet Peter in the end, and set off for our morning's birding. One of the species I did want to see was Asian Openbill. There are still a few around in Vietnam, but I had never seen one. (Stop press: Finally added Openbill to my Vietnam list when I saw one at my local patch a week after my Thailand trip). Peter was confident of seeing quite a few of those and sure enough, we had hardly left Bangkok when we saw the first Asian Openbills* flying over the Highway. Other birds that were busy early in the morning were Little Egrets, Great Egrets and Black-crowned Night Herons.

Our first stop was at Bangpra No Hunting Area. Target species here was Chinese Francolin. Sure enough, as soon as we got out of the car, we heard two calling right in front of us. Regrettably, we never managed more than a frustratingly short glimpse of one Chinese Francolin*. However, there were some other good birds all around us, many of them sitting very exposed, trying to dry out after a recent downpour. A Long-tailed Shrike gave us excellent views, as did the Greater Coucals, it seemed like there was one sitting on every bush. Red-wattled Lapwings were their usual noisy selves. We also saw a number of Hoopoes, a couple of Green Bee-eaters, Streak-eared and Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Indian Roller and Red Collared Dove.

Peter suggested that we should go on to our next destination, a patch of forest near Bangpra (sorry Peter, forgot the name). Our arrival coincided with the arrival of a number of kids, who were obviously on some seriously mind-altering substances. So much for a peaceful morning. We took off straight away, trying to stay ahead of that noisy bunch. We had come to look for Blue-winged Pitta, which Peter had seen the previous week. No such luck this time; we only heard them calling. Other birds heard (by Peter, really) were Blue-eared Barbet*, Linneated Barbet, Emerald Dove, Puff-throated Babbler and White-crested Laughingthrush. As usual in this sort of habitat, birds were frustratingly difficult to see, but we did get views, in order of sightings, of Black-crested Bulbul, Green-billed Malkoha, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Grey-eyed Bulbul*, Dollarbird, Hill Myna, Black-headed Bulbul, and White-throated Kingfisher.

We headed back to Bangpra to take another shot at Chinese Francolin. Whilst they were still calling, we completely failed to see them. We walked a bit further into the brush, and this is where some really good birds showed up. First was Bright-capped Cisticola*, followed by Chestnut-capped Babbler*. A little pond hosted Little Cormorant, White-breasted Waterhen, Yellow Bittern, and Yellow Wagtail. Another target bird, Baya Weaver, was seen just before we moved on a little further to where we could actually access the lake. Most waders had already disappeared, but there were a few Pacific Plovers, Black-winged Stilts, and a solitary Common Greenshank. We did look for Crakes, but the single glimpse we got was too short to clinch identification.

By now, the early start, and birding for the first time, took its toll on my girlfriend, so we decided to slowly head back to Bangkok, looking for more Openbills on the way. Those we duly saw, and a stop by a small, and very smelly pond, rewarded us with great views of Bronze-winged Jacana, Pheasant-tailed Jacana, and ca. 25 Lesser Whistling Ducks. A bit further we found Oriental Pratincole behaving like waders; standing knee-deep in water.

River Cruise on the 8th of May

Time to do the tourist bit today, with an organized trip up-river. The weather was pretty bad, but I still managed to add a few birds to the trip list: Collared Kingfisher, Small Minivet, and Olive-backed Sunbird.

All in all, not a bad trip, seeing how the main focus was actually shopping! We saw a total of 85 species, 10 of which were lifers for me.

P.S.: I found shoes on the last day. If you have large feet (like me) try the MBK mall.

List of birds seen, Thailand 04/05/04 - 10/05/04

Little Grebe

Tachybaptus ruficollis

Little Cormorant

Phalacrocorax niger [pygmeus]

Little Egret

Egretta garzetta

Purple Heron

Ardea purpurea

Great White Egret

Egretta alba

Cattle Egret

Bubulcus ibis

Javan Pond-heron

Ardeola speciosa

Black-crowned Night-heron

Nycticorax nycticorax

Yellow Bittern

Ixobrychus sinensis

Black Bittern

Dupetor flavicollis

Asian Openbill*

Anastomus oscitans

Lesser Whistling-duck

Dendrocygna javanica

Black-shouldered Kite

Elanus caeruleus


Pandion haliaetus

Chinese Francolin*

Francolinus pintadeanus

White-breasted Waterhen

Amaurornis phoenicurus

Pheasant-tailed Jacana

Hydrophasianus chirurgus

Bronze-winged Jacana

Metopidius indicus

Black-winged Stilt

Himantopus himantopus

Oriental Pratincole

Glareola maldivarum [pratincola]

Pacific Golden Plover

Pluvialis fulva

Red-wattled Lapwing

Vanellus indicus

Common Greenshank

Tringa nebularia

Whiskered Tern

Chlidonias hybridus

Oriental Turtle-dove

Streptopelia orientalis

Spotted Dove

Streptopelia chinensis

Red Collared-dove

Streptopelia tranquebarica

Emerald Dove

Chalcophaps indica

Zebra Dove

Geopelia striata

Alexandrine Parakeet*

Psittacula eupatria

Asian Koel

Eudynamys scolopacea

Green-billed Malkoha

Phaenicophaeus tristis

Greater Coucal

Centropus sinensis

Crested Treeswift

Hemiprocne coronata [longipennis]

Asian Palm-swift

Cypsiurus balasiensis [parvus]

House Swift

Apus nipalensis [affinis]

White-breasted Kingfisher

Halcyon smyrnensis

Collared Kingfisher

Todirhamphus chloris

Little Green Bee-eater

Merops orientalis

Indian Roller

Coracias benghalensis


Eurystomus orientalis

Eurasian Hoopoe

Upupa epops

Lineated Barbet

Megalaima lineata

Blue-eared Barbet*

Megalaima australis

Coppersmith Barbet

Megalaima haemacephala

Blue-winged Pitta

Pitta moluccensis

Rufous-winged Bushlark

Mirafra assamica

Barn Swallow

Hirundo rustica

Oriental Pipit

Anthus rufulus [richardi]

Yellow Wagtail

Motacilla flava

Small Minivet

Pericrocotus cinnamomeus

Black-headed Bulbul

Pycnonotus atriceps

Black-crested Bulbul

Pycnonotus melanicterus

Sooty-headed Bulbul*

Pycnonotus aurigaster [cafer]

Stripe-throated Bulbul

Pycnonotus finlaysoni

Yellow-vented Bulbul

Pycnonotus goiavier

Streak-eared Bulbul

Pycnonotus blanfordi

Grey-eyed Bulbul*

Iole propinqua

Common Iora

Aegithina tiphia

Oriental Magpie-robin

Copsychus saularis

Zitting Cisticola

Cisticola juncidis

Bright-capped Cisticola*

Cisticola exilis

Grey-breasted Prinia

Prinia hodgsonii

Plain Prinia

Prinia inornata [subflava]

Great Reed-warbler

Acrocephalus arundinaceus

Dark-necked Tailorbird

Orthotomus atrogularis

Pied Fantail

Rhipidura javanica

White-crested Laughingthrush

Garrulax leucolophus

Puff-throated Babbler

Pellorneum ruficeps

Chestnut-capped Babbler*

Timalia pileata

Yellow-eyed Babbler*

Chrysomma sinense

Olive-backed Sunbird

Nectarinia jugularis

Long-tailed Shrike

Lanius schach

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo

Dicrurus paradiseus

Large-billed Crow

Corvus macrorhynchos

Ashy Woodswallow

Artamus fuscus

Asian Pied Starling

Sturnus contra

Black-collared Starling

Sturnus nigricollis

Common Myna

Acridotheres tristis

White-vented Myna

Acridotheres grandis [cinereus]

Hill Myna

Gracula religiosa

Plain-backed Sparrow

Passer flaveolus

Eurasian Tree Sparrow

Passer montanus

Baya Weaver*

Ploceus philippinus

Scaly-breasted Munia

Lonchura punctulata


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