Introduction
As we had holidayed in Britain and endured it’s rotten summer in 2007, I decided that my wife Jan, children Alessandria and Madeleine and myself were due for something more exotic in 2008.
A short list was compiled, and we eventually came up with Tobago in the southern Caribbean. It’s appeal was it’s tropical climate, great beaches and warm sea, small size, apparent friendliness, English language, fair prices, low risk, and last but not least, the potential for greatly expanding my world bird list.
We booked 14 days (24 May to 7 June) at the Sherwood Park apartments with Just Tobago. This accommodation is in the village of Carnbee in the south-west of the island. This part of Tobago is where most of the tourist accommodation including a handful of all-inclusive hotels are located, although I don’t think there is any other accommodation in Carnbee. Also, as we were in the quiet season and for over half our stay there were no other guests at the 12 apartment Sherwood, we were probably the only tourists staying in Carnbee at the time. This was very apparent whenever I visited the supermarket, but it didn’t worry me in the least; it was nice to blend in with the locals.
Unfortunately, as direct flights to Tobago from the UK are rather restricted, we had no choice but to fly from Gatwick, a hell of a trek from north-west Leeds where we live. Although this was not too much of a problem on the outward journey (apart from working out how many hours to allow before the flight time), it was a real pain to have to drive home 250 miles or more after already enduring a 9 hour flight. An overnighter somewhere in Surrey would have been more pain free.
We also booked a 4wd hire vehicle (Daihatsu Terios) for the duration in advance through Just Tobago. Although we could have got by with an ordinary car as most of the roads are good quality, we were advised that staying at the Sherwood some sort of vehicle would be essential. This was good advice, as the supermarket (we were self-catering) was a mile away, nearest restaurants were about 3 miles away and beaches about 5 miles away. There was a tiny shack next to the Sherwood though where I bought water, milk, fruit juice etc, although they never seemed to have any bread whenever I called.
Although we had a 3 hour power cut just after we arrived, and one night forest fires were raging just 500m away, Sherwood was a relaxing place to stay with a nice pool which the kids loved and gardens, complete with nesting Tropical Mockingbird, Blue-grey Tanager and Yellow-bellied Elaenia. I started most mornings with an hour or so’s birding and exploration on foot before the rest of the family was up. Staff presence was minimal, although the manager, Nigel, was very friendly, and never tired of our string of questions. There was always a night porter on duty, although one morning when I wanted him to open the gates extra early so I could get the car out, he was asleep. I don’t know how much use he would have been as security.
Other Relevant Information
In Trinidad and Tobago (usually abbreviated to T&T) the main language is English, although when the locals are talking between themselves, with their local dialect and speed of delivery, you wouldn’t know it. Another bonus for English visitors is that they drive on the left.
The only vaccinations we were recommended to have were for tetanus and hepatitis A, both of which I was already covered for. Malaria tablets don’t seem to be necessary.
Local currency is the T&T Dollar, which has a fixed exchange rate to the US Dollar. Many retailers will also accept payment in US Dollars or Sterling, but one shouldn’t depend on that.
Petrol is extremely cheap compared to Britain (I recall it cost less than £10 equivalent to fill up in 2008, although the Terios had a small tank). Eating out can be quite expensive though, although the Chinese restaurants we visited were good value.
I understand that there are no venomous snakes on Tobago (although there are on Trinidad) or venomous spiders. Insects weren’t a problem, except on one trip into the rainforest when mosquitoes were buzzing around my head. After I sprayed some more repellent, although they didn’t disappear altogether, they kept their distance.
The climate is obviously pretty hot, and at the time of year we visited (end of dry / beginning of wet season), quite humid. It wasn’t too oppressive for me, except may be in the wetlands in the afternoon, although the kids appreciated the shade and water. It was much cooler in the rain forest. The rain we had, although occasionally heavy, was mostly at night, so didn’t affect any plans. The sea temperature was fabulous.
The bird literature I used both before and during the trip was mainly Helm Field Guide’s Birds of Trinidad and Tobago by Kenefick, Restall and Hayes, first published in 2007. This is a convenient and well set out book, although some of the illustrations aren’t up to the standard of equivalent European bird books – you’ve only got to check out familiar birds to realise this. Waders aren’t shown in flight either, which is pretty useless.
I also referred to Helm’s Birds of the West Indies (Raffaele, Wiley etc) for widespread Caribbean birds. Many of the commoner birds on T&T (eg seabirds, Eared Dove, Bananaquit, Tropical Mockingbird, Carib Grackle and Grey Kingbird are also found on other Caribbean islands, and I saw them all on St Lucia in 2000. This book however is too large to cart around. North American and probably even more so South American field guides would also be useful to identify many T&T birds.
Gray Kingbird
Apart from the books, I bought Malcolm Rymer’s DVD ‘Birding Tobago’ before we travelled, so I was pretty well prepared. I only got his ‘Birding Trinidad’ after the holiday, as I hadn’t reckoned on visiting this island beforehand.
Based on Malcolm Rymer’s recommendation and that of several bird trip accounts, I booked Newton George for some guiding. I birded with him for 1.5 days on Tobago and 1 day on Trinidad. He was both great company and a top class birder, the most respected one in Tobago. Some species, particularly in the rain forest, I wouldn’t have had a hope of finding without him. His e-mail address (unless he’s changed it since) is ngeorge@tstt.net.tt.
Daily Schedule
Saturday 24 May
Flight from Gatwick to Tobago direct, after an extremely early start from home. We flew with XL Airways, who have since unfortunately gone belly up, so travel arrangements may now have to be different. We were met at the airport by a very large saloon car taxi which swallowed all our luggage and had been arranged by the tour operator. For some reason, they were expecting a family of a different name, but as no-one else was travelling to the Sherwood, after clearing up the misunderstanding, we were on our way. We arrived at the Sherwood in the last hour of daylight, and half an hour later, our hire vehicle arrived on cue. Had time to pick out a handful of bird species before dark. We actually had 2 adjoining apartments with a link through door, so plenty of space, and doubled up bathrooms, kitchens, stocked fridges etc.
Sunday 25 May
Travelled locally along the Claude Noel Highway (the nearest thing to a tourist strip) to Pigeon Point at the extreme south-west of Tobago. Most of the restaurants are around here, the airport is close by at Crown Point, and the beaches are great at Pigeon Point, although you pay a small amount to take a car here. I later on had a drive to Buccoo to investigate the birding potential of this area.
Monday 26 May
Travelled half way up the west coast as far as Arnos Vale and the nearby water wheel, and closer by Grafton Bird Santuary, with it’s string of forest trails.
Tuesday 27 May
Didn’t travel far today. Went up the west coast as far as Grafton (again), called at Mt Irvine Bay for some beach activity, and Buccoo (again).
Wednesday 28 May
Another trip to Grafton (it’s so good, and was only 15 minutes away) and also Bon Accord wetland near Pigeon Point.
Thursday 29 May
A very early start and full day’s birding with Newton. He picked me up from the Sherwood (even though he lives at the other end of the island at Speyside), and we used his car – all part of the service. Jan and the kids chose to stay at the resort.
We visited Hilton Ponds at the south-west end, but most of the day was concentrated on the Roxburgh- Bloody Bay road through the rain forest in the north-east of Tobago. We spent a few hours along Gilpin Trace, the most accessible and well known trail into the forest. It took an hour or so to get to Roxburgh from our base. A great day with 23 lifers.
Friday 30 May
Returned to Gilpin Trace in the rain forest with the family in the morning. Other guides left us alone when I said I’d already been there with Newton George – they couldn’t compete ! However, I struggled to find a fraction of the birds that Newton had located, with the major exception of a pair of Great Black Hawks, which we didn’t see yesterday.
We later met up with Newton and a party at the Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, to have an escorted boat trip to Little Tobago, a small island about 2 miles off the north-east coast. It was very hot on this island, with quite a bit of climbing involved. There are great seabird colonies here, and we also had time for some snorkelling off smaller Goat Island on the return.
Saturday 31 May
We stayed at the southern end of the island today. I visited the wetlands at Bon Accord and Hilton in the morning. Later on we had a few hours on the beach at Canoe Bay. There is a small fee to use this beach, but refreshments, umbrellas etc are available. We had this beach virtually to ourselves, and the sea was shallow, warm, safe for kids and calm. We did have to share it with an iguana though.
Sunday 1 June
Had a clockwise road trip of the entire island, calling at Englishman’s Bay (beautiful), Bloody Bay river, Charlotteville (started raining), Flagstaff Hill (overlooking St Giles islands), Speyside (stopped again at the Blue Waters Inn for refreshment), and finally Argyll waterfalls near Roxburgh. These waterfalls are certainly worth a visit for their beauty, but unfortunately, a Sunday outing in Tobago is much like one in Britain, ie full of tourists, but without the dogs. You are encouraged to take a guide from the car park to the water falls, but as we were going to have to wait half an hour or more for one, we didn’t bother, and with the well marked trail and all the people, we didn’t get lost.
Monday 2 June
Early morning birding at Bon Accord and Hilton Ponds wetlands and Store Bay next to the airport. Later, took a trip to the Adventure Farm. Another good place for birds, although the only adventure was following more trails. Two resident dogs decided to walk themselves with us, but were friendly enough and didn’t make a nuisance of themselves.
Tuesday 3 June
Family went on a snorkelling boat trip from Pigeon Point to Buccoo Reef. Otherwise, some local birding in Bon Accord and Buccoo Bay areas.
Wednesday 4 June
Family had a trip up to Englishman’s Bay on the west coast for some beach / sea activity, and spent several hours here. Called at Arnos Vale hotel on the return for refreshment and walks in their grounds.
Thursday 5 June
A very long and full day’s birding with Newton, this time on Trinidad. As, without wishing to sound big-headed, with Newton’s help I had seen nearly all the possible species on Tobago in the first week, and as nearly everyone we met had been to Trinidad and said you ‘must’ go, I arranged this trip with Newton just a couple of days beforehand. My family couldn’t be persuaded to come along, so they stayed on Tobago, which obviously saved me money. I had to pay for 2 return flight tickets, Newton’s guide service for the day, cost for Newton to ‘borrow’ a friends car on Trinidad, Asa Wright entry and food, plus boat trip tickets. I think it cost me around US$300 all-in, so not too bad.
Trinidad is only about 25 miles from Tobago, the flight only lasted 20-25 minutes, and flew over some pristine-looking rain forest.
After we’d checked through Trinidad’s very modern airport and picked up the vehicle, we went through some very sinister looking suburbs and joined the main east -west highway. Fortunately, we were travelling east, because it was morning rush hour, and most of the cars on the island seemed to be travelling, in the loosest sense only as they were stationary, to the capital, Port of Spain, a few miles west. We then took the Blanchisseuse road north into the mountains and forest to the Asa Wright centre. We spent a few hours at this fabulous place and stayed for lunch.
In the afternoon, we travelled back south and west to the Caroni Swamp, stopping briefly at Trincity sewage ponds on the way.
At Caroni, we took a boat and driver into the maze of channels in this huge mangrove swamp. The main reason was to witness the large numbers of Scarlet Ibis flying to their roost. We got back to the base just before dark, and travelled the short distance back to the airport and caught the flight back to Tobago.
I’d left Sherwood at about 5.30 am, and was back there around 11.30 pm. A superb day.
Friday 6 June
We travelled again to the Arnos Vale area, and I had another trip to Buccoo bay.
Saturday 7 June
The last day unfortunately. Managed a last visit to Grafton bird sanctuary and Hilton ponds, before the car hire rep turned up within seconds of the due time to collect the Terios. She’d obviously missed the public relations training course, and didn’t manage to ask how we’d got on with the car or even a smile. She just wanted the keys and off.
There was later confusion and misunderstanding about the taxi service back to the airport. Firstly, we received a phone message that we were to be picked up earlier than we’d originally been told. Then we got a message that a taxi had turned up even earlier than this, but we weren’t ready. We scrambled our packing together, and went out front with our 4 cases and sets of hand luggage, to be met with an old Nissan Sunny saloon. There was no way that my family and luggage was going to fit in this, even if the driver stayed behind, and most of the meagre boot space was taken up with his speakers. The driver admitted that he didn’t expect us to have any luggage even though we were travelling to the airport after a 2 week holiday!
He drove off empty handed, and after a frantic phone call to the holiday rep, a more suitable MPV was dispatched, and we were soon on the way to the airport.
Having checked in, I was rather alarmed to find the departure lounge full of groups of loud lager swilling blokes, when our time on the island had been very quiet, with all the other tourists we’d met being families and couples. It turned out that they’d been over for the England v T&T football match a few days earlier, and were now on the way home. God knows where they’d stayed; probably locked into the all-inclusives. I feared that the flight home was going to be a 9 hour riot, but to be fair, as soon as they stepped on the plane, they were all quiet and fell asleep like everyone else.
Birding Sites - Tobago
Grounds of Sherwood Park and immediate vicinity, Carnbee
Some time, usually early morning, was spent birding here every day, and was very productive. Commonest birds were Eared Dove, Caribbean Martin, Tropical Mockingbird, Blue-grey Tanager and Bananaquit. Other common birds were Rufous-vented Chacalaca (heard more than seen), Ruddy Ground-Dove, White-tipped Dove, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Smooth-billed Ani, Short-tailed Swift, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, House Wren, Bare-eyed Thrush, White-lined Tanager, Black-faced Grassquit and Blue-black Grassquit.
Other species in the area included small numbers of Pale-vented Pigeon, various hummingbirds (not a good place for these, probably because there were no feeders around), White-tailed Nightjar (flushed most mornings), Blue-crowned Motmot, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Barred Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Tropical Kingbird, Grey Kingbird, Palm Tanager and Shiny Cowbird.
Rarities seen on single occasions were Yellow-headed Caracara and Red-rumped Woodpecker.
Buccoo Bay
Buccoo was only 10 minutes or so drive from Carnbee. There’s a small village here with a boat repair business and the odd restaurant. Not many tourists seem to get here, even though there’s a golf course and hotels a couple of miles away. There’s a curved sandy beach with mangrove immediately behind and a more open marsh behind this, although not much open water.
There were usually Brown Pelicans, Laughing Gulls and Roseate Terns in the bay, with the pelicans roosting on the boats. More interesting though as they are meant to be scarce on Tobago, there were usually 1-2 White-winged Swallows, always either over the sea or sat on boat rails.
Laughing Gull
Waders seen here in small numbers, and not elsewhere on the island were Semipalmated Plover, Sanderling and Turnstone.
The marshy area was good for Green and Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Cattle Egret, Moorhen, Southern Lapwing, Smooth-billed Ani and Carib Grackle.
Birds were quite hard to see and in low numbers in the mangrove, which could be walked through with difficulty as it was mostly dry, although I did turn up Red-crowned Woodpecker, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Grey Kingbird and Brown-crested Flycatcher here.
Store Bay / Pigeon Point
Located at the south-west extremity of the island near the airport, and as well as beach and diving activities and restaurants, a very good area for sea watching.
The commonest seabirds here are generally Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird (usually high in the sky and/or well off shore), and Laughing Gull (the only gull I saw on the islands). It is also good for terns: Roseates are the commonest, followed by Royal, with a handful of Sandwich and the odd Cayenne Tern (currently considered a race of Sandwich). Other seabirds which are quite common here are the comedy name pair of Brown Booby and Brown Noddy.
Other than seabirds, Pigeon Point is another good place to look for White-winged Swallow, which I saw a couple of times over the beach.
Grafton
A great site near Mount Irvine on the south-west coast. Most famous as a bird feed station, although the various woodland trails are more rewarding. This is not rainforest, it is quite dry woodland and gets hot here in the afternoon.
Birds are fed here regularly a couple of times of day, and it’s a great place to see a few species at close quarters. However, Bananaquits totally dominate on the nectar feeders here. If you want to see hummers, for some reason, the feeders at Arnos Vale and the Adventure Farm are much better. The seed tables are dominated by Eared Doves and Pale-vented Pigeons. Star bird at the feeders appears to be Blue-crowned Motmot, a dazzling and very approachable bird attracted by lumps of cheese!
Blue-crowned Motmot
I had 4 trips here, and in that time, other species seen on the trails included Rufous-vented Chacalaca, Broad-winged Hawk, Orange-winged Amazon, Short-tailed Swift, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Rufous-breasted Hermit, Ruby Topaz, Copper-rumped Hummingbird, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Red-rumped Woodpecker, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Barred Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Brown-crested Flycatcher, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, Red-eyed Vireo, Scrub Greenlet, Rufous-breasted Wren and Palm Tanager.
There are supposed to be Blue-backed Manakins here, although I didn’t find them. Stripe-breasted Spinetail is present as well, although I only heard them. Not all the rainforest species can be found here, although this place is much easier to watch.
Arnos Vale Hotel area and water wheel
The feeders are excellent for hummingbirds, which can be approached to about a metre when they are feeding. Commonest is the dazzling little Ruby Topaz, but there were also smaller numbers of Copper-rumped Hummingbird, Black-throated Mango and the stunning White-necked Jacobin. This is also a great place for Palm and White-lined Tanagers, Red-crowned Woodpecker and Blue-crowned Motmot. As we sat in comfy chairs here drinking tea and snacking, a Motmot landed on my fingers and made off with some cake. That will stay with me for ever.
The surrounding woodlands and water wheel area (a mile or so up the road), is good for birds such as Rufous-vented Chacalaca, Orange-winged Amazon, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Short-tailed Swift, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Barred Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher and Rufous-breasted Wren.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Bon Accord wetland
Along with Hilton ponds, the best freshwater wetland I encountered. Located just north of the straight Claude Noel / Milford Road highway to the airport and Pigeon Point. Turn off this road by the large Chinese restaurant, and view the water-filled channels alongside Mt Pleasant Boulevard and the pools and grass banks through a chain link fence from Alfred Crescent. Looking at aerial satellite pictures, there are other more natural looking ponds in this area, although these may not be possible to get to.
The ditches are excellent for Wattled Jacana (highly distinctive with their long trailing legs and lime green wing panels in flight), which are very approachable if you stay in the car, and also Moorhen and Green Heron. I also had single Whimbrel and Greater Yellowlegs here, the only ones of the holiday. There were usually a few noisy Southern Lapwings in the fields. This is the only breeding wader on the island, and was by far the commonest on my visit.
Immature Green Heron.
Commonest birds on and around the ponds were Least Grebe, Anhinga and Black Skimmer. On each of my 4 visits there was a flock of around 18 Skimmers. Usually they were just roosting on the grass banks, but occasionally a bird would fly around the ponds skimming. These are a very recent colonist from Trinidad and beyond. Sometimes there were a few White-cheeked Pintails present, but according to Newton, you need to visit early in the day to guarantee them, because as soon as it gets too hot, they fly off to shelter in the mangroves.
This place is also good for a variety of herons. Cattle Egrets were around in the fields, but also seen were Black-crowned Night Heron (up to 4), Yellow-crowned Night Heron (up to 2), Tri-colored Heron (up to 2), and the odd Great White Egret and Great Blue Heron.
Other species seen at Bon Accord included Black-bellied Whistling Duck, Osprey, Mangrove Cuckoo, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Grey Kingbird and Scrub Greenlet.
Hilton Ponds
Newton introduced me to this place, which is about 3 miles east (towards Scarborough) along the Claude Noel highway from Bon Accord, and on the south side of the highway. Look for the entrance to the Hilton Tobago hotel and take this road. After passing the first pool, you pass a security barrier. As long as you are friendly and show that you are birding, you should be let past.
The first pool on the right doesn’t seem too good for waterbirds apart from Anhinga, but has Caiman. On my trips, there were plenty of Black-bellied Whistling Duck and Southern Lapwings in the grass, and it’s a good area for Smooth-billed Ani.
Even better for herons than Bon Accord, and I recorded all 9 regular Tobago species here.
Another good place for Least Grebe, White-cheeked Pintail and Wattled Jacana, but Black Skimmer not seen here. Another couple of species recorded here but not at Bon Accord were Masked Duck (rare on Tobago) and American Purple Gallinule.
Roxburgh – Bloody Bay road / rainforest / Gilpin Trace
The jewel in Tobago’s crown. I spent the best part of a day on this road and in the rain forest with Newton and half of the next day here with my family.
The rain forest proper is in the north of the island, and this road gives the best access. There are several species which won’t be seen anywhere else on Tobago. However, because of the nature of the habitat, seeing most birds is very difficult, but at least birding from the road gives a fighting chance of getting some species, and the heat is less oppressive than the rest of the island. There were a good dozen species which I wouldn’t have seen without Newton’s knowledge of calls and where to find species.
For those that want to do some exploring, Gilpin Trace is the best bet. Travelling from Roxburgh to the north-west coast, it is on the right hand side of the road near the highest point of the road, and is marked by a wooden shelter. It is quite safe and well marked, but narrow, steep in places and can be slippery with protruding tree roots. Expect to come back the same way - it is not a circular.
Some species were seen elsewhere on the island as well:- Southern Lapwing, Orange-winged Amazon, Rufous-breasted Hermit, White-necked Jacobin, Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Streaked Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, Rufous-breasted Wren, Bananaquit, Red-legged Honeycreeper and Crested Oropendola to name a few.
However, it’s the specialities I came here for, and I got almost a full house mostly with Newton’s help. Species I saw here and nowhere else on Tobago were:-
Great Black Hawk, White-tailed Sabrewing, Grey-rumped Swift, Collared Trogon, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, Plain Antvireo, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, White-throated Spadebill, Piratic Flycatcher, Venezuelan Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, Blue-backed Manakin, Yellow-legged Thrush, White-necked Thrush and Violaceous Euphonia. The details are in the species accounts.
Little Tobago / Goat Island
An un-missable fabulous seabird breeding location, about 20 minutes boat trip out of Speyside in the north-east. We picked a good time of year to visit, as all major species were present.
The most obvious and abundant species were Magnificent Frigatebird and Red-billed Tropicbird. There were also quite good numbers of Brown Booby, Sooty Tern and Brown Noddy, about 10 Red-footed Booby (all of brown morph), and 2-3 Bridled Terns from the boat crossing. Audobon’s Shearwater nest here, but as with many of their clan they are either far out at sea or deep in their nesting burrows during daylight, I had to be satisfied with seeing a single chick in the gloom of it’s burrow.
Two locally rare seabirds I didn’t see: White-tailed Tropicbird, which has nested here, and Masked Booby (more likely on the St Giles Islands).
Amongst the non-seabirds, we recorded Scaly-naped Pigeon (a rare vagrant from the Lesser Antilles), Pale-vented Pigeon, a roosting White-tailed Nightjar, Brown-crested Flycatcher and Crested Oropendola on Little Tobago.
Argyll Waterfall
Some good quality forest species including Orange-winged Amazon, Black-throated Mango, Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Streaked Flycatcher, Tropical Kingbird and Red-eyed Vireo were seen here in a couple of hours.
Adventure Farm
Another excellent bird feeding station and woodland area, near the west coast between Grafton and Arnos Vale.
Like Arnos Vale, a great place for hummers, with in order of abundance great views of Ruby Topaz, Black-throated Mango and White-necked Jacobin on the nectar feeders.
A couple of hours in the gardens and woodland also turned up Rufous-breasted Hermit, Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Stripe-breasted Spinetail, Barred Antshrike, White-fringed Antwren, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, Fuscous Flycatcher, White-lined Tanager and Shiny Cowbird amongst the commoner stuff.
Englishman’s Bay
Essentially a stereotypically stunning palm-fringed Caribbean bay, located on the mid-west coast. However, should the sea and beach get too much, there are some nice birds here as well.
Over the sea, Brown Pelican, Magnificent Frigatebird, good numbers of Brown Booby and Laughing Gull, and a single Brown Noddy were seen.
Otherwise the small tree-lined river flowing into the sea here was productive, with good numbers of Short-tailed Swift, and also Rufous-breasted Hermit, Blue-crowned Motmot, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Barred Antshrike, Yellow-breasted Flycatcher, White-lined and Palm Tanagers seen here. Highlight was fabulous view of 2 Streaked Flycatchers.
Birding Sites - Trinidad
Asa Wright Centre and Blanchisseuse Road
Just wish I could have had more than a few hours here. Asa Wright is a fabulous place set in the rain forest in the north, and the Blanchisseuse Road is used to reach it from the east-west corridor road.
Asa Wright is a characterful old colonial type house, with a verandah overlooking the forest and valley, and a host of trails leading into the forest. The casual visitor is not allowed onto the trails without a guide, and fortunately Newton qualifies in this respect.
Because of the quality of birds from the verandah visiting the nectar feeders and fruit trays, it was very hard to drag myself away to lunch and even to walk in the forest.
Although Newton hadn’t held much hope, one of the first birds I saw from here was a Channel-billed Toucan in one of the large trees opposite. A few seconds, and it was off, and not to be seen again.
Probably the commonest birds from the Verandah at Asa Wright were Palm Tanager and Bananaquit. A few other species had also been seen on Tobago: Black-throated Mango, White-necked Jacobin, Piratic Flycatcher, Bare-eyed Thrush, Tropical Mockingbird, White-lined Tanager and Shiny Cowbird for example.
Although the hummingbirds were good (Blue-chinned Sapphire and the miniature Tufted Coquette were also seen here), star turn were the Honeycreepers. Tobago only has Red-legged Honeycreeper, but here, this species was seen alongside Purple and Green Honeycreepers; all common, confiding and dazzling. Before heading off into the forest, other great birds seen from here included Tropical Pewee, Great Kiskadee, Black-tailed Tityra, Cocoa Thrush, Silver-beaked Tanager and Blue Dacnis. It’s worth looking upwards as well, as Trinidad is much better than Tobago for raptors. Those seen from here included Turkey Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite, White Hawk and Common Black Hawk. There were also swifts in the air, which Newton considered to be Band-rumped, but my views were not confirming.
I had 3 main target birds to get in the forest here: Bearded Bellbird and the 2 Manakins (White-bearded and Golden-headed). All 3 were found without any trouble. The Manakins are little gems, and White-bearded were seen lekking. Bearded Bellbird is not much of a looker with strands of skin hanging from it’s throat, but it’s voice is something else. It is extremely loud and it’s call will not be forgotten once heard. Full details of these and other species seen at Asa Wright are in the species accounts.
Trincity Sewage Ponds
Only a short time was available at this excellent wetland site travelling between Asa Wright and Caroni.
Species seen here included Striated Heron (which I’d only previously seen across the Atlantic in Gambia), Snowy Egret, American Purple Gallinule, Black-necked Stilt, Spotted Sandpiper, Large-billed Tern, Pied Water Tyrant, Yellow-chinned Spinetail and Yellow-hooded Blackbird.
Caroni Swamp
A fascinating place, but difficult to spot birds in the mangroves as you chug along in the boat. Obviously the star turn was Scarlet Ibis, with a few hundred seen, mostly in flight. Little Blue and Tricolored Herons are also quite common here.
A handful of other interesting species were also seen here, in particular Green-throated Mango, Bicolored Conebill and Red-capped Cardinal
Non-Bird Wildlife
Apart from birds, other wildlife seen included:-
Caiman: 1 seen at Hilton Ponds on 29 May, and 2 at Trincity, Trinidad on 5 June
Manta Ray: 1 close inshore, Speyside 30 May
Green Turtle: 1 swimming off Speyside, 30 May
Fruit Bats sp: at Arnos Vale water wheel on 26 May
‘Red’ Squirrel: 1 near Sherwood on 4 June. Only wild mammal seen.
Iguana sp: 1 swimming in Canoe Bay, 31 May
‘Very large bright green’ lizard: crossing Milford Road, 31 May
Tegu Lizard: 2-3 Trinidad, 5 June. Huge fat orange and black lizard
Trinidad / Cook’s Tree Boa: 1 huge specimen, Caroni Swamp, Trinidad, 5 June
Additionally, Giant Clams, various corals and numerous exotic fish whose names I don’t recall were seen while snorkelling off Goat Island and Buccoo Reef. The rain forests would also be a treat for butterfly enthusiasts.
Account of Birds Recorded on Trip
This is a summary of all the bird species I recorded between 24 May and 7 June 2008. Those indicated with a (Tr) after their name, were only seen on Trinidad on 5 June. All other records from Trinidad were also on this date.
Black-bellied Whistling Duck
Three dates, most birds from Hilton Ponds, where pretty approachable.
At least 20 there on 29 May, 8 on 2 June and up to 30 on 7 June; birds seen both on the marshes and surrounding cropped grass. Otherwise, 3 overhead at Bon Accord on 2 June.
White-cheeked Pintail
Also 3 dates, the same locations as the previous species, but much flightier and smaller numbers.
A single at Hilton on 29 May, 2 with Black Skimmers at Bon Accord on 31 May and 6-7 here on 2 June.
Masked Duck
This rare bird was also seen on 3 dates, all at Hilton.
Sightings were a female and 2 juveniles on 29 May, and female only on 31 May and 7 June. Very shy, and would dive and disappear into reeds at slightest provocation.
Rufous-vented Chacalaca
A common bird in the south of Tobago, seen on 10 days. A raucous, deafening part of the dawn chorus; a bird which despite it’s size somewhere between a Pheasant and Turkey, could be difficult to spot up in the foliage.
Common around Sherwood, large numbers at Grafton, and also seen Pigeon Point and Arnos Vale.
Least Grebe
Five dates from the 2 main wetlands in the south.
Two at Bon Accord on 28 May, around 10 at Hilton on 29 May, 2+ at Bon Accord on 31 May, a few including young at both these sites on 2 June and 11-12 at Hilton on 7 June. Like an all dark Little Grebe.
Audubon’s Shearwater
A single downy chick was seen in the gloom of it’s nest burrow near the landing stage on Little Tobago on 30 May.
Red-billed Tropicbird
A large number were seen, but all on and from Little Tobago on 30 May. Great views of birds at the colonies here, including a juvenile lurking inches away under the viewing platform we were stood on.
Brown Pelican
A common inshore seabird, seen on 11 dates. Both adults and juveniles seen, often loafing on moored boats. Records from Pigeon Point, Buccoo Bay, Mt Irvine Bay, Scarborough, Store Bay, Canoe Bay, Englishman’s Bay, Stonehaven Bay and Grafton Bay.
Red-footed Booby
Only recorded on Little Tobago on 30 May, with 10 brown morph birds seen. Most were on their nests in trees, with only 1 flight view obtained.
Brown Booby
Commoner than Red-footed Booby, and seen on 4 dates.
Modest numbers around Little Tobago and Goat Island on 30 May, 4 in Store Bay near the airport on 31 May and 6 here on 2 June; good numbers including some plunge-diving in Englishman’s Bay on 4 June.
Anhinga
Recorded on 5 dates.
At Bon Accord, 7 on 28 May, a few on 31 May and several on 2 June; at Hilton Ponds, 3-4 on 29 May, 1 on 31 May, several on 2 June and around 4 on 7 June; also 1 passed Canoe Bay on 31 May.
Magnificent Frigatebird
The 2nd commonest sea bird after Laughing Gull, and seen on 13 dates.
Usually hanging in the air at great height, and regularly seen over the land as well as the sea. Some seen at close quarters, in particular Little Tobago on 30 May and a male harassing gulls on Charlotteville beach on 1 June.
Great Blue Heron
Very small numbers.
Singles at Hilton on 29 and 31 May and juvenile at Bon Accord on 2 June.
Little Blue Heron
Recorded on 5 dates.
Two on Bloody Bay river and several at Hilton on 29 May, 2 at Speyside on 30 May, 3 adults again at Bloody Bay on 1 June, 1 juvenile at Hilton on 2 June and around 8 at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad.
Tricolored Heron
Also recorded on 5 dates.
One at a swamp on the north-east coast and 2 -3 at Hilton on 29 May, 2 at Bon Accord and 1 over Canoe Bay on 31 May; singles at Bon Accord and Hilton on 2 June, c10 at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad, and single again at Hilton on 7 June.
Cattle Egret
Very common bird seen on 13 dates, starting with the airport runway when we arrived.
Snowy Egret
A couple of dates from Hilton Ponds: 1 on 29 May and 2 on 2 June.
On Trinidad, several at Trincity and 2 at Caroni Swamp.
Great White Egret
Recorded on 4 dates.
Two at Hilton on 29 May, singles at Hilton and Bon Accord on 2 June, half dozen at Trincity and single at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad; single again at Hilton on 7 June.
Green Heron
Second commonest heron after Cattle Egret, seen on 9 dates.
Single near the water wheel, Arnos Vale on 26 May, 3 at Buccoo on 27 May, 2 at Bon Accord on 28 May, a few throughout on 29 May, 3-4 at Bon Accord on 31 May, singles at Bloody Bay and Charlotteville on 1 June; many at Hilton and Bon Accord on 2 June, 2 at Buccoo on 3 June and many at Hilton on 7 June.
Striated Heron (Tr)
Two on Trinidad; 1 well on wires at Trincity and another in flight.
Black-crowned Night Heron
Small number on 3 dates.
A juvenile in flight at Hilton on 29 May, and at Bon Accord, an adult on 31 May and 4 adults on 2 June.
Yellow-crowned Night Heron
Commoner than it’s Black-crowned cousin, all birds adult, and seen on 8 dates.
One very well in a roadside ditch near Stone Haven Bay on 26 May, 1 flushed near Buccoo on 27 May, one at Bon Accord on 28 May, 1 at Roxburgh and 3 at Speyside on 30 May, 2 at Bon Accord and 1 on the beach near the Adventure Farm on 2 June, single at Buccoo on 3 June, 2 at Turtle Bay on 6 June and single at Hilton on 7 June.
Scarlet Ibis (Tr)
All birds from Caroni Swamp, Trinidad, with around 250 altogether, mostly in flight over the mangroves flying to roost prior to dusk. The national bird of Trinidad, and Caroni is the place to see them. Many birds however were juveniles or in partial moult, and relatively few were the full text book scarlet.
Turkey Vulture (Tr)
Two seen well from Asa Wright, Trinidad, and other high circling vultures which weren’t examined closely were either this species or the next.
American Black Vulture (Tr)
A bit of a cop out. Newton called high circling vultures from the car on Trinidad as American Black, but as we were travelling and as I’d seen 100’s of the things in Florida in 2006, I didn’t pay much attention, and booked them in without any conclusive views.
Osprey
The raptor which is always a day’s birding highlight in the UK, and doesn’t get a 2nd glance abroad !
Three dates: 1 at Bon Accord on 31 May, 2 at Pigeon Point on 3 June and 1 at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad on 5 June.
Swallow-tailed Kite (Tr)
A group of at least 5 of these beauties were seen at Asa Wright. Unfortunately, as they were seen through the forest canopy from below, views were somewhat obscured.
(Plumbeous Kite)
A raptor seen from the verandah at Asa Wright, Newton thought was this species, but from my view, I’m not claiming it.
White Hawk (Tr)
Two soaring birds seen very well from Asa Wright’s verandah.
Common Black Hawk (Tr)
Between 3 and 7 birds soaring over Asa Wright, Trinidad, with some great views.
Great Black Hawk
Two birds seen together at distance over the Main Ridge rain forest on 30 May.
Broad-winged Hawk
Most records from Grafton.
Two seen here on 27 and 28 May, including great views of perched birds. The only other record was 1 over Sherwood on 27 May.
Yellow-headed Caracara
Records from 3 dates.
Singles low over Sherwood on 25 May, near Port of Spain, Trinidad on 5 June and over Arnos Vale Hotel on 6 June. Pretty scarce on Tobago, so 2 records from there were very welcome.
Moorhen
Common and seen on 6 dates. Most from Bon Accord, Hilton Ponds and Buccoo.
American Purple Gallinule
Single dates each from Tobago and Trinidad.
On Tobago, 2-3 at Hilton Ponds and around 4 at a marsh in the north-east on 29 May. Not seen on subsequent trips to Hilton however. On Trinidad, 2 at Trincity.
A very shy species, which had to be seen within the first few seconds or not at all.
Black-necked Stilt (Tr)
Single record of 14 birds at Trincity, Trinidad. Very similar to Black-winged Stilt.
Southern Lapwing
A common wader, seen on 10 dates.
On Tobago, at Buccoo, a territorial pair on 27 May and 3 June; a pair on the golf course on 28 May; at Bon Accord, 3 and 2 chicks on 28 May and birds on 31 May and 2 June; at Hilton, good numbers on 29 May, 31 May, 2 June and 7 June (including a small chick); 1 by the Main Ridge road on 29 May, 1 in school fields at Roxburgh on 31 May, pair by Bloody Bay river on 1 June; others about the island on 29 and 30 May and 1 June. On Trinidad, a single at Trincity sewage ponds.
A very vocal bird, and with it’s longer legs, more elegant than the Northern Lapwing.
Semipalmated Plover
Two non-breeding plumage birds on the beach at Buccoo on 25 and 27 May and 3 June. Almost certainly the same birds on each occasion.
Whimbrel
A single Hudsonian bird on bare ground near Bon Accord on 28 and 31 May and 2 June. Obviously darker and longer-billed than European birds, but I could never get the thing to fly in order to see the dark rump.
Sanderling
Only birds seen were 2 with the Semipalmated Plovers at Buccoo on 25 and 27 May and 3 June.
Spotted Sandpiper (Tr)
A single non-breeding plumage bird at Trincity sewage ponds, Trinidad.
Greater Yellowlegs
Great roadside views of a single bird in ditches near Bon Accord on 28 May and 2 June; both probably the same bird.
Turnstone
Only birds seen were 5 at Buccoo on 25 May.
Wattled Jacana
Recorded on 7 dates, but only 3 sites.
At Bon Accord, up to 10 including juveniles in ditches on 28 May, 31 May, 2 June and 3 June; at Hilton 3 on 29 May, fair number on 2 June and small number on 7 June; on Trinidad, several adults and juveniles at Trincity on 5 June.
Laughing Gull
A very common species on the beaches of Tobago, seen on 13 dates. For some reason, all birds were adults and in breeding plumage. The only gull species seen.
Brown Noddy
Recorded on 5 dates.
On 30 May, 2 well from Blue Waters Inn, Speyside and several on and around Little Tobago; in Store Bay, 1 on 31 May and 4 on 2 June, 1 in Englishman’s Bay on 4 June and 2 in Grafton Bay on 7 June.
Sooty Tern
Seen on 3 dates.
Two of these dates were of birds around Smith Island on the east coast, with 40-50 on 29 May and 1 June. The other record was of modest numbers and quite good views on Little Tobago on 30 May.
Bridled Tern
Very small numbers, with 2-3 on the boat crossing between Goat Island and Speyside on 30 May and 1-2 in the same area from Speyside on 1 June.
Large-billed Tern (Tr)
Up to 7 birds seen well at Trincity sewage works, Trinidad on 5 June. A large, very distinctive tern.
Roseate Tern
The most frequently seen tern, with 9 dates on Tobago.
Recorded from Buccoo Bay, Little Courland Bay, Mount Irvine Bay, Grafton Bay, Store Bay, Pigeon Point, a colony on a small island off Plymouth, and other sites on the east coast.
Compared to UK birds, although very pale and long-tailed, they lacked the pink flush and had mainly red rather than black bills.
Royal Tern
Recorded in small numbers on 6 dates.
A few at Pigeon Point on 25 May, 1 at Buccoo Bay on 27 May, a pair on the east coast on 29 May, 2 Store Bay on 31 May and 3 on 2 June; 3-5 again at Pigeon Point on 3 June.
Sandwich / Cayenne Tern
Small numbers on 4 dates.
Sandwich Tern records were all from the south coast: at Store Bay, at least 2 on 25 May, 2 on 31 May and 4-5 on 2 June; at Pigeon Point, 1-2 on 3 June.
The yellow-billed ‘Cayenne’ race records were 1 at Store Bay on 31 May and 2-3 here on 2 June.
Black Skimmer
Only recorded at Bon Accord, where seen on 28 and 31 May and 2 and 3 June.
Up to 18 birds recorded, presumably the same birds on each occasion, usually sat in a tight flock in short grass between the pools, with occasional birds flying around.
Scaled Pigeon (Tr)
Around 5-6 birds were seen in Trinidad, but all were fly-overs, and no good views were secured.
Scaly-naped Pigeon
One was seen in flight on Little Tobago on 30 May. This is a vagrant to Tobago from other Caribbean islands, and was probably the locally rarest bird of the holiday.
Ruddy Ground Dove
A very small and common dove, seen on all dates between 25 May and 7 June 2009, including on Trinidad. Many of those seen were around the Sherwood Apartments, either as the name implies, feeding on the ground, or sat on phone wires.
Eared Dove
Even more abundant than Ruddy Ground Dove, and seen on all dates, including on Trinidad. Particularly common around Sherwood, and the southern end of Tobago.
Very large numbers at feeding time at Grafton.
White-tipped Dove
Common, and recorded on 13 dates on Tobago.
Mainly seen in wooded areas, eg Sherwood vicinity, Grafton and Arnos Vale.
Pale-vented Pigeon
The least common, and largest of the 4 Tobago dove species, but even so, still recorded on 11 dates.
Best views and largest numbers were at the Grafton feeding station, although even here, greatly outnumbered by Eared Doves. A few birds from Sherwood, and others from Hilton Ponds, Little Tobago etc.
Green-rumped Parrotlet
A common bird at the southern end of Tobago, where seen on 13 dates.
Very frequent from Sherwood, and also seen at Grafton, Arnos Vale, Buccoo Bay and Bon Accord. Tiny, and all over bright green, not just on the rump !
Orange-winged Amazon
Obviously common on Tobago, although as essentially a bird of rain forest, which was at the other end of the island from where we stayed, I saw relatively few, and certainly heard more.
Wild birds (they’re common in cages, including one at the Sherwood), were seen on 4 dates on Tobago and 1 on Trinidad. On Tobago, on 26 May, 2 in trees at Arnos Vale and 2 overhead at Grafton, many in the northern rainforest on 29 May, but only 2 seen here on 30 May; 10-12 generally in the north on 1 June, including 2 at Argyll Waterfall. Heard only on other dates. On Trinidad, only 2 seen, high over the forest.
Mangrove Cuckoo
One seen well although briefly at Bon Accord on 31 May. This bird was found by Newton who I bumped into while he was guiding other people, and I think they had 2 of them. A scarce bird on Tobago.
Smooth-billed Ani
A common bird seen on 13 dates.
Usually in family groups, and quite approachable. Recorded from Sherwood, Buccoo marsh, Hilton Ponds, Flagstaff Hill, Grafton bay and elsewhere on Tobago. Also seen on Trinidad at Trincity and elsewhere.
Ferruginous Pygmy Owl
Not seen, although one was heard calling at Asa Wright on Trinidad.
White-tailed Nightjar
Birds were flushed on 8 occasions (26 to 28 and 30 May, 1, 2, 4 and 6 June) from a small bare patch of ground, usually early mornings, adjacent to the Sherwood. On 2 June, 2 birds were seen, but otherwise just a single bird. On 4 June, a bird was seen on the deck, but otherwise just flight views. In flight, very similar to European Nightjar, but smaller. Birds heard calling at night on other occasions.
Another bird was seen extremely well roosting on Little Tobago on 30 May.
(Band-rumped Swift)
Swifts seeing flying around Asa Wright, Trinidad were reckoned by Newton to be this species, but I didn’t get clinching views.
Grey-rumped Swift
Like most countries that have more than one swift species occurring, this was the real headache on Tobago. Being swifts, they don’t sit still to be identified !
On Tobago, this is essentially an upland, forest species, and was probably seen on 29 and 30 May; Newton certainly reckoned so. However, a group seen over the forest near Charlotteville on 1 June were convincingly different from the next species.
Short-tailed Swift
The common swift on Tobago, and seen on 9 dates.
Most birds seen over forest (such as around Arnos Vale water wheel, Grafton and the north of the island), and rivers such as at Englishman’s Bay and Speyside. Regular also in small numbers at Sherwood.
Rufous-breasted Hermit
A large, approachable and quite common hummingbird seen on 8 dates.
Singles at Grafton on 26 and 27 May, 1-2 in the rainforest on 29 May and up to 4 at Gilpin on 30 May; at least 1 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June, 1 at Englishman’s Bay on 4 June, 1 at Asa Wright on Trinidad on 5 June and 1-2 again at Grafton on 7 June. Not attracted to nectar feeders.
White-tailed Sabrewing
The least seen of the 6 Tobago Hummingbirds.
Fabulous views of 2 males and another 2-4 seen on the Gilpin Trace on 29 May, and at least 1 also seen here on 30 May. This species and the Hermit seem to have a habit of hovering in front of one’s face.
White-necked Jacobin
Recorded on 5 dates.
Single male and female in the rainforest on 29 May, 4-5 males and probable females at the Adventure Farm on 2 June, a couple of males and a female at Arnos Vale on 4 June, at least 1 male at Asa Wright on 5 June, and 2 males again at Arnos Vale on 6 June.
Nectar feeders are the best place to look for this species, and only my first record was away from them. The male is a very smart looking bird.
Green-throated Mango (Tr)
Two males were seen in the mangroves at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad.
Black-throated Mango
Recorded on at least 9 dates, and all birds were females except where stated otherwise. Most records from around nectar feeders.
Probably seen at Sherwood on 25 May, and firm records were singles at Sherwood and Arnos Vale on 26 May, 1 at Grafton on 28 May, 1 at Argyll on 1 June, good numbers including males at Adventure Farm on 2 June, 2 at Pigeon Point on 3 June, a few at Arnos Vale on 4 June, a male at Asa Wright, Trinidad on 5 June, 1 at Arnos Vale on 6 June and a single at Grafton on 7 June.
Ruby Topaz
Gorgeous little hummer, recorded on minimum of 6 dates.
Sightings were 3-4 at Grafton on 27 May, single males at or near Sherwood on 30 May and 1 June, loads at Adventure Farm on 2 June, and abundant at Arnos Vale on 4 and 6 June.
Tufted Coquette (Tr)
Two of these miniature birds at Asa Wright, both females.
Blue-chinned Sapphire (Tr)
At Asa Wright, 1-2 males and probably 2 females were seen on 5 June.
White-chested Emerald (Tr)
Two birds were seen around Asa Wright on 5 June.
Copper-rumped Hummingbird
Seen marginally more frequently than any other hummer with 10 dates.
Birds seen at Arnos Vale, Grafton, Sherwood and Asa Wright in Trinidad. The default hummingbird, most easily distinguished by it’s lack of distinguishing features.
White-tailed Trogon (Tr)
A single male was seen very well at Asa Wright in Trinidad.
Violaceous Trogon (Tr)
Single male and female were also seen very well at Asa Wright. Very like the last species, but smaller.
Collared Trogon
Recorded on 2 dates in the Main Ridge forest on Tobago.
On 29 May, a male was seen well, and 2 females less so. On 30 May, a male was seen superbly well near the Gilpin Trace entrance.
Green Kingfisher
Two record dates of what was probably the same bird each occasion.
A male was seen near it’s nest burrow on Bloody Bay river, and on both occasions with a fish on 29 May and 1 June.
Blue-crowned Motmot
Seen on 11 dates, all on Tobago.
7-8 at Arnos Vale and 2 at Grafton on 26 May, around 3 near Sherwood on 27 May, 2 at both Sherwood and Grafton on 28 May, at least 1 in the rainforest on 29 May, 5-6 on 30 May (Gilpin Trace and Speyside), 1 near Carnbee on 31 May, 2 near Sherwood, 1-2 at Argyll Falls and 2 elsewhere on 1 June; 2 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June, at least 8 on 4 June (including at Sherwood, Englishman’s Bay and Arnos Vale), around 4 at Arnos Vale on 6 June and 2 at Grafton on 7 June.
This bird is just the ticket for breaking through the apathy of spouses and children towards birding walks on Tobago: quite common, confiding and a stunner.
Rufous-tailed Jacamar
Shadowed Blue-crowned Motmot to some extent in terms of locations, abundance, character and beauty. Seen on 9 dates, again all on Tobago.
Excellent views of around 3 at Grafton on both 26 and 27 May, 2 again here on 28 May, 2 in the rainforest on 29 May, 1 brilliantly at Gilpin on 30 May, 1 at Bloody Bay river and 2 at Argyll Falls on 1 June, 1 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June, 2 at Englishman’s Bay on 4 June and 1 at Arnos Vale on 6 June. Heard only again at Grafton on 7 June.
Another bird likely to get the nod from non-birding family members.
Channel-billed Toucan (Tr)
One seen briefly from the verandah at Asa Wright on 5 June was an unexpected pleasure.
Red-crowned Woodpecker
By far the commonest Woodpecker, seen on 10 dates.
Sightings were a pair and juvenile at Sherwood on 26 May, around 6 at Sherwood, others at Grafton and 1 at Buccoo on 27 May, single at Grafton on 28 May, 1-2 in the north on 29 May, 2 at Sherwood and 1 at Argyll falls on 1 June, 2+ at Sherwood and 2+ at Adventure Farm on 2 June, several at Sherwood and 2 at Buccoo Bay on 3 June, 5 at Sherwood and 2 at Arnos Vale on 4 June, a few at Arnos Vale on 6 June and finally 2 at Grafton on 7 June.
Very vocal, often in family groups, and attracted to feeders such as at Arnos Vale, where very approachable.
Red-rumped Woodpecker
The Helm field guide describes this as a bird of the main ridge forest on Tobago, although the 2 records I had were from elsewhere.
Two seen well at Grafton on 28 May and a male in the Sherwood grounds on 30 May was very unexpected.
Golden-olive Woodpecker
Single records from each of the 2 islands.
5-6 in the rain forest on Tobago on 29 May, although only a single bird was seen well; single at Asa Wright on 5 June was seen very well.
(Lineated Woodpecker)
According to Newton, we heard one at Asa Wright, although I couldn’t get any views on it.
Stripe-breasted Spinetail
Seen on 4 dates.
Great views of 4 birds on Gilpin Trace on 29 May, 1 seen well and another heard only here on 30 May, brief views of 1 at Adventure Farm on 2 June and another very well at Arnos Vale on 6 June. Heard only at Grafton on 7 June.
A forest floor species with a distinct call. Not too difficult to see if call can be located, and one then waits for the bird to creep into open view.
Yellow-chinned Spinetail (Tr)
Probably 4 birds seen at Trincity sewage works, Trinidad on 5 June in a very short space of time. Easier to see than the previous species.
Plain-brown Woodcreeper
Two birds were seen well on the Gilpin trace with Newton’s assistance, on 29 May.
Olivaceous Woodcreeper
A single bird of this species was also seen on Gilpin on 29 May. More difficult to see than the last species, and views not quite as good.
(Straight-billed Woodcreeper)
A likely bird was seen over the mangroves at Caroni, Trinidad on 5 June. Newton and the boat driver called the bird, but my view was insufficient to claim.
Cocoa Woodcreeper
The common woodcreeper on Tobago, which I saw on 7 dates, heard only on another 2, and secured some great views.
One very well near Buccoo on 25 May, 1 seen and others heard at Grafton on 26 May, 1 seen very well and again others heard in the mangroves at Buccoo on 27 May, another at Grafton on 28 May, 1 across the road near Roxburgh on I June, probably 2 near Sherwood on 4 June, heard only at Asa Wright on 5 June and singles at both Grafton and the Sherwood grounds on 7 June.
Easy to locate by following the loud, descending call. Like a cross between a giant Treecreeper and giant moth.
Great Antshrike (Tr)
A female of this large, dumpy antshrike species was seen in the undergrowth at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Barred Antshrike
Quite common in thick undergrowth, and seen on 8 dates.
Females very well at Sherwood and Arnos Vale on 26 May, a male at Sherwood and female at Grafton on 27 May, 5 at Sherwood and 2 males at Grafton on 28 May, 1-2 females at Sherwood on 31 May, 2 again at Sherwood on 1 June, 3 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June; a pair at Sherwood, male at Englishman’s Bay and female again at Arnos Vale on 4 June; finally 2 males at Arnos Vale and 2 at Sherwood on 6 June.
The male is very distinct looking like a mint humbug, but the female is an almost identical rufous colour and size to the female White-lined Tanager. You need to see the head pattern and bill shape to differentiate from that species.
Plain Antvireo
3-4 were seen in the rainforest at Gilpin Trace on 29 May, and good but very brief views were had of a couple of them.
White-fringed Antwren
Quite a common and confiding bird, seen on 10 dates. The male is a dazzler.
Single males at Arnos Vale water wheel and at Grafton on 26 May, single males again at Grafton on 27 and 28 May; at Sherwood, 2 females on 30 May and 1 female on 31 May and 1 June; a female at the Adventure Farm on 2 June, a pair at Sherwood on 3 June, male at Sherwood on 4 June and a male and 1-2 females at Arnos Vale on 6 June.
Yellow-bellied Elaenia
A common but scruffy-looking species seen on 14 dates, ie all but 5 June when I day-tripped to Trinidad.
A pair was breeding in the Sherwood’s garden. Also seen at Grafton, Speyside, Adventure Farm, Pigeon Point and probably elsewhere.
Forest Elaenia (Tr)
1 seen well in the forest at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Ochre-bellied Flycatcher
A very brief view was had of one at Gilpin Trace on 29 May. A bird which flew in front of the car on the Blanchisseuse Road en route to Asa Wright, Newton also called as this species.
Yellow-breasted Flycatcher
Quite a regular sight on Tobago, with 7 dates.
Two at Arnos Vale on 26 May, 3-4 well at Grafton on 27 May, 3 again at Grafton on 28 May, 2 near Sherwood on 1 June, 2 at the Adventure Farm and 1 at Sherwood on 2 June, 2 at Sherwood and 1 at Englishman’s Bay on 4 June and 1 seen at Grafton on 7 June.
White-throated Spadebill
I had brief views of a probable female of this odd, tiny and scarce species in the rainforest on 29 May, after Newton successfully called one down.
Fuscous Flycatcher
A forest species seen on 5 dates.
Two birds at Grafton on both 27 May and 28 May, adult and juvenile at Gilpin on 30 May, 1 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June and 3 again at Grafton on 7 June. Some excellent views.
Tropical Pewee (Tr)
Two birds seen at Asa Wright. Views not great, and one was pretty distant.
Pied Water Tyrant (Tr)
At least 1 bird seen very well at Trincity, Trinidad. A little beauty, like a short-tailed Pied Wagtail.
Piratic Flycatcher
Single dates on both islands.
Two birds seen in the rainforest tree tops along the Roxburgh – Bloody Bay road on 29 May and much better views of another 2 at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Great Kiskadee (Tr)
Several at various locations on Trinidad, typically on phone wires, and best views from the feeding stations at Asa Wright. Doesn’t occur on Tobago, although very common on Trinidad.
Streaked Flycatcher
This large, striking flycatcher was recorded on 4 dates.
On 29 May, good views of 4-5 in the Tobago rainforest, 1 near Argyll falls on 1 June, brilliant view of 2 at Englishman’s Bay on 4 June and 1 at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Tropical Kingbird
A quite common bird seen on 11 dates.
Recorded on Tobago at Sherwood, Buccoo, rain forest area of the north, Argyll waterfall, Arnos Vale and Hilton. Also seen on Trinidad.
Grey Kingbird
Recorded on 12 dates, and probably slightly more common than Tropical Kingbird, although not seen on Trinidad. Seemed to be more an open country bird than Western Kingbird.
Venezuelan Flycatcher
Great views were had of this smart bird, with 2 on the Gilpin Trace on 29 May. Seen well enough to differentiate from Brown-crested Flycatcher.
Brown-crested Flycatcher
Quite scarce, with sightings on a minimum of only 4 dates.
1 well in the mangroves at Buccoo on 27 May, 2 at Grafton on 28 May, singles at Sherwood and Little Tobago on 30 May and 1-2 again at Buccoo on 3 June.
Bearded Bellbird (Tr)
At least 2 males were seen well in the forest at Asa Wright, and others were heard. It’s high-decibel call is one of the most amazing of any bird I’ve ever heard, and for that reason alone, this species was one of the top highlights of the trip.
White-bearded Manakin (Tr)
Great views of a lek of about 4 males seen in the forest at Asa Wright on 5 June. Highly active with a unique electrical clicking call.
Blue-backed Manakin
Around 8 adult males and a single juvenile male were seen in the rain forest in the north of Tobago on 29 May. This included 2 separate leks involving 3 birds each. One of these involved birds sat on a low horizontal twig leap-frogging each other.
Birds were also heard in this area on 30 June, but couldn’t be seen.
Golden-headed Manakin (Tr)
A male seen brilliantly in flight and a separate female seen at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Black-tailed Tityra (Tr)
A male of this scarce species was seen distantly from the Asa Wright verandah on 5 June.
White-winged Becard
A single male was seen briefly in the forest on the Roxburgh – Bloody Bay road on 29 May, after being successfully tape-lured by Newton !
Red-eyed Vireo
This species, probably of the local race, was seen on 6 dates, and heard on others, once the song was learnt.
Singles at Grafton on 26 to 28 May inclusive, 1 in the north of Tobago on 29 May, 2 at Argyll on 1 June and 1 seen and others heard again at Grafton on 7 June.
Scrub Greenlet
Seen on 8 dates on Tobago, and heard on another 2.
Good views of 1 near Buccoo on 25 May, 1 very well at Sherwood on 26 May, at least 2 at Sherwood on 27 May, birds at Grafton and Bon Accord on 28 May, at least 1 on 29 May, 1 near Sherwood again on 1 June, 3 at Sherwood on 4 June and 2-3 at Grafton on 7 June.
Visually like a European leaf warbler, but quite easy to see by homing in on it’s loud and distinctive song, which is where the similarity ended.
White-winged Swallow
Seen on 4 dates on Tobago, and 1 on Trinidad. Always over water or beaches.
Singles at Store Bay and Buccoo Bay on 25 May, 1 again at Buccoo on 27 May, 2 at Pigeon Point and 1-2 at Buccoo on 3 June, 5 at Caroni Swamp on 5 June and finally 4 at Buccoo Bay on 6 June.
Caribbean Martin
A large and very common martin on Tobago, where seen on 14 dates. Most common in the south, and always present at Sherwood.
Not seen on Trinidad, where replaced by the next species.
Grey-breasted Martin (Tr)
The first species I saw on my day trip to Trinidad. Several were seen around the airport, but not subsequently. In size and structure, very similar to Caribbean Martin.
Southern Rough-winged Swallow (Tr)
A couple of individuals were seen briefly from the car on Trinidad on the trip between the airport and Asa Wright. Views not exactly good, but conclusive.
House Wren
A very common bird on Tobago, seen on 13 dates, ie all except first evening and day trip to Trinidad.
Very approachable, and like most wrens, loud. I was frequently awoken in the middle of the night by one singing outside under the artifical light.
Rufous-breasted Wren
Seen on 5 dates, including Trinidad, and heard on other occasions.
Sightings were 1 at the water wheel near Arnos Vale on 26 May, a pair at Grafton on 27 May, 1 very well at Gilpin on 30 May, 1 at the Adventure Farm on 2 June and 1 at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Yellow-legged Thrush
Good views of a male, female and juvenile and another fly-by male seen in the rainforest at Gilpin on 29 May. A thrush flushed here on 30 May, was a female of either this species or White-necked Thrush.
Cocoa Thrush (Tr)
At least 2 of this Trinidad species were seen at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Bare-eyed Thrush
A very common species seen every day, including on Trinidad.
White-necked Thrush
One bird seen on the nest and at least 1 other seen in Gilpin on 29 May. See also comments under Yellow-legged Thrush regarding a thrush seen on 30 May.
Tropical Mockingbird
A very common species, seen on all dates, including on Trinidad.
White-lined Tanager
A common bird, particularly around Sherwood, seen on 13 dates. Other places that the species was seen included Adventure Farm, Englishman’s Bay, Arnos Vale, Grafton and on Trinidad.
The sexes look like different species: the female is rufous brown and the male jet black.
Silver-beaked Tanager (Tr)
A single male and 2 females were at Asa Wright on 5 June. A stunning species.
Blue-grey Tanager
Probably the 2nd commonest passerine on Tobago, after Bananaquit, and seen every day. However, only a single bird seen in a day on Trinidad, where the similar Palm Tanager seems to be much commoner.
A little beauty in it’s unique powder blue plumage.
Palm Tanager
Quite a common bird on Tobago, seen on 8 dates.
Two at Sherwood and others at Arnos Vale and Grafton on 26 May, several at Grafton on 27 May, singles at Sherwood on 30 May and 3 June, 2 overhead Sherwood on 31 May, small numbers and excellent views of birds at feeders at Arnos Vale, and also at Englishman’s Bay on 4 June, abundant at Asa Wright on 5 June and many again at Arnos Vale on 6 June.
Turquoise Tanager (Tr)
Up to 6 of this uniquely colourful species at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Speckled Tanager (Tr)
Fairly unsatisfactory view of 3 birds at Asa Wright on 5 June. Newton, who still has a few gaps in his Trinidad list, said this was a lifer for him.
Bay-headed Tanager (Tr)
2-3 birds high in trees at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Swallow Tanager (Tr)
A male of this striking species was seen briefly and well at Asa Wright on 5 June. Another lifer for Newton !
Blue Dacnis (Tr)
An immature male was seen from the Verandah at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Purple Honeycreeper (Tr)
At least 2 male and 1 female were seen brilliantly on the fruit trays at Asa Wright. A male was seen in company of a male Red-legged Honeycreeper for comparison.
The male is a stunning bird with legs so yellow, they look like they’re made of plastic.
Red-legged Honeycreeper
The only honeycreeper on Tobago, and seen on 4 dates, including Trinidad. Apart from the leg colour, a simlar bird to the Purple Honeycreeper.
The first sighting was no classic: a distant female briefly at Grafton on 27 May. The other sightings on Tobago were from the northern rainforest: around 4 males and 2 females on 29 May, and 1 male and 2 females on 30 May, all at or near Gilpin, with some great views. Over on Trinidad, several of both sexes were seen around the feeders at Asa Wright.
Green Honeycreeper (Tr)
Of a different genus, and quite different to the other Honeycreepers.
Another Asa Wright species, where common and confiding around the feeders, and again, both sexes seen.
Bicolored Conebill (Tr)
One was seen quite well from the boat trip in the mangrove at Caroni Swamp on Trinidad.
Bananaquit
The ubiquitous passerine on both islands; seen in numbers every day apart from the arrival day, when only heard. Even present in the rainforest proper. Had a virtual monopoly on the nectar feeders at Grafton.
Black-faced Grassquit
Common species, seen on 13 dates on Tobago. Frequent at Sherwood in particular.
Blue-black Grassquit
Recorded on 10 dates. Nearly as common as Black-faced Grassquit, and often associated with it.
Recorded at Sherwood, Grafton, Arnos Vale and probably elsewhere.
(Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch)
A male appeared briefly out of dense scrub near Sherwood on 4 June. Although most likely an escape from captivity, there is an off chance it could have been a wild bird.
Crested Oropendola
Far less common than the impression I got before the holiday, and only seen on 2 dates in Tobago and on Trinidad. Not recorded at all in the south of Tobago.
On Tobago, 4 along the Roxburgh – Bloody Bay road in the rainforest on 29 May and 4 on Little Tobago on 30 May. On Trinidad, great views of half dozen at Asa Wright around the feeders.
Yellow Oriole (Tr)
On Trinidad, a male and probable female at Asa Wright, and another male in flight at Caroni Swamp.
Yellow-hooded Blackbird (Tr)
Two males of this stunning species seen at Trincity sewage ponds, Trinidad.
Giant Cowbird
This oddball species was only seen on 29 May. Half a dozen distant birds were seen in a field near Scarborough and a single bird was in the grass verge next to the rainforest road.
Shiny Cowbird
Recorded on 11 dates, including on Trinidad.
Between 25 and 31 May, just 1-2 females were seen on 5 dates at Sherwood; otherwise sightings included pair at Bloody River on 1 June, many of both sexes at Adventure Farm on 2 June, a few generally roadside on 4 June and singing male at Sherwood on 7 June.
Carib Grackle
Common species seen on all dates including on Trinidad. Mainly in suburban, roadside or marshy areas (eg Buccoo and Bon Accord). Not however noted at Sherwood.
Violaceous Euphonia
Seen on 2 dates on Tobago and on Trinidad.
A male and 2 females were seen along the Roxburgh – Bloody Bay rainforest road on 29 May, a pair high in trees on the Gilpin Trace on 30 May and 2 males at Asa Wright on 5 June.
Red-capped Cardinal (Tr)
3 birds (1 very well perched and 2 in flight) seen at Caroni Swamp, Trinidad.
Species Missed
On Tobago, I saw all I could have reasonably expected to see and more besides, and virtually all by the end of the first week.
Of the seabirds, as I mentioned earlier, I only missed Masked Booby (rare) and White-tailed Tropicbird (very rare). Of the breeding land birds of Tobago, the only ones I didn’t see were Common Potoo, Striped Owl and Grey-throated Leaftosser (the second 2 being rare). Of the regular non-breeders on Tobago, I probably could have expected more American waders or passerines at other times of year, but then could have missed out on more of the breeders.
On Trinidad, as I only visited a small part of this much larger island for a few hours, I only saw a small sample of it’s species. A week or more on this island I’m sure would give opportunity for dozens more.
Commonest Species
Going by frequency of sightings, the only species I saw every day were Eared Dove, Bare-eyed Thrush, Tropical Mockingbird, Blue-grey Tanager and Carib Grackle.
Others that were missed on no more than 2 dates out of 15 were Magnificent Frigatebird, Cattle Egret, Laughing Gull, Ruddy Ground Dove, White-tipped Dove, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Smooth-billed Ani, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Caribbean Martin, House Wren, White-lined Tanager, Bananaquit and Black-faced Grassquit.
In Summary
I saw a minimum of 152 species in Trinidad and Tobago in a 2 week period. This represents the overwhelming majority of Tobago’s breeding species and a small proportion of Trinidad’s. 109 of these birds were seen on Tobago and 43 only on Trinidad.
Including birds heard only or possibly seen, the maximum total was 158 species.
T&T is a great destination for birding. With the exception of those in the rainforests, most species are quite accessible, and with many being approachable and distinct, on the whole they are easy to identify, once the shortcomings of the illustrations in the available fieldguides has been compensated for.
