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|A Report from birdtours.co.uk|
Sumatra and West Java 4th-23rd July 2007,
firstname.lastname@example.org), Fred Fearn, Mark Sutton, Pete Antrobus, John Gregory and Neil Bostock.(
A trip report covering the logistics & results of a visit to the islands of Sumatra & Java in the Indonesian archipelago. Sites visited included Gunung Kerinci and the Kerinci Sebalat national park (Mauro Sako or Tapan Road as it is also known), Way Kambas all on Sumatra and Gunung Gede on Java. This is a compilation of the birds seen by the first four participants as John and Neil were on more of a wiping up mission than a general trip and, for example, only needed three or four species between them at Kerinci!
Kerinci: All birding done from the main trail and various side trails and also in the dry riverbed. Access to the riverbed is gained by crossing the fields between the abandoned PHPA office and the entrance to the forest. As you cross the fields, you descend slowly and then suddenly very steeply into the river valley. There is an obvious hole in the bushes through which a steep and slippery path takes you down into the dry river. It was amazingly tough birding at Kerinci. We decided this was for several reasons, it was a quiet time of year, April/May and August/September look like much better bets. There were just too many birders there! During our visit there were always at least 11 birders there, sometimes 18, on one soul destroying morning, Mark and Fred were told that they had missed Schneider’s Pitta and two groups of Salvadori’s Pheasants by a matter of seconds, and because the areas around the trail have been heavily trapped in the past, ground dwelling birds are very shy and very uncommon, indeed, nobody got sight nor sound of Red Billed Partridge at all. Add the usual groups of people there to climb the mountain, particularly at weekends, and it was VERY busy!
Way Kambas: Main birding sites are the main track into the park, which has one paved loop trail running off to the clearing at Way Kanan, the clearing itself and Rawa Gadjah (Elephant Swamp) over the river from Way Kanan. If we had seen all the species that we only managed to hear, both here and at Kerinci we would have had a fantastic trip!!
Gunung Gede: Main birding areas are the Botanical Gardens,
Golf Course and the main path up the two summits of Gunung Gede and
Pangrango. Also the cultivated fields below Cibodas are worth
Medical info & hassles:
All 4 of us who went on the trip were fully immunised before leaving the country - seek advice from your GP regarding which injections you will need. We received mixed advice on which anti malarials to take but in the end were taking daily Paludrine & weekly Chloroquine and also Malarone between us. Our latest travel advice told us that there was some patchy Chloroquine resistant Malaria on Sumatra. Mosquitoes were not a problem generally. In fact Way Kambas was the only place where they were any more prevalent than you would expect. The usual precautions would be sensible, a decent repellent, long sleeves and trousers and carry a mosquito net in case you end up staying anywhere with unscreened rooms. There were very occasional leeches on the main track at Way Kambas, but the swamp was a different matter!! Mark and Fred wore Leech socks on the day they went wading in there and didn’t get a single bite between them.
Generally, the Indonesian people tended to be curious, friendly & helpful. Not very many people speak English outside the main cities, so learning a few phrases and words would be useful, especially as Indonesian is not too difficult a language to learn.
There does sadly appear to be a general lack of respect for the environment, we found, Gunung Gede was covered in litter, and you could hear chainsaws and axes being used at Gunung Kerinci. Our group saw no evidence of trapping or poaching, but the Birdtour group did encounter some poachers in the forest on one occasion. The only evidence we noted was the lack of birds on Kerinci!
Haggling seems to be a way of life, and can also be great fun. It is essential to haggle with taxi / bemo drivers as they usually start quoting a price that you can easily reduce by at least 30%!! Alternatively, take a taxi with a meter.
Indonesia appears to be going through something of a boom at the moment and was noticeably more expensive than when I visited in September 2001.
The currency in Indonesia is Rhupias. At the time of our visit the exchange rate was approximately Rh 17500 to the Pound and roughly Rh 8500 to the US Dollar. We took all our money as US Dollars & changed some to Rhupias on arrival at the airport. There were plenty of places offering to change money in Jakarta, but do try to shop around as there was quite a lot of variability of offers. The Ibis hotels were also offering rates on traveller's cheques too, but we didn't notice whether it was possible to change cheques outside of the major cities or airports. ATM's were very easy to find in Jakarta. Sterling doesn’t seem to be accepted as a currency to change into Rhupias, but Euros were.
We all took copies of The Birds of Borneo, Sumatra, Java and Bali by McKinnon and Philips. Craig Robson’s Birds of South East Asia would also be useful, especially for some tricky species, as not to belittle the outstanding achievements of the Sundas field guide, it isn’t the best in the world!!
Further Reading: Plenty of good trip reports are available on Surfbirds and Worldtwitch websites, also this trip report by Peter Collaerts found at
and the following report by Aidan Kelly.
4th July: Flew from Manchester to Jakarta via Dubai with the excellent Emirates. Flights were booked through Expedia and Trailfinders and were approx £540 each.
5th July: Arrived Jakarta late evening and overnight in the Ibis Tamarin and Ibis Arcadia hotels.
6th July: Flew Air Asia (tickets booked on the net in the UK prior to leaving C£25 one way) to Padang. Upon arrival at the airport we tried to hire a minibus to get all 6 of us to Kerinci. After being promised a mini bus by one of the taxi firms in the airport lobby we stood around outside for an hour or so while nothing remotely minibus sized appeared, finally a jeep appeared that was far too small to get us all and our bags in so we hired two taxis instead costing Rp 700000 each. The drive to Kerinci took around 6 hours and we arrived at the village of Kerisik Tua in the dark. THE place to stay in this area is at the Subandi family homestay (tel +62 (0) 748357009). Unfortunately for us there was a Birdtour Asia group staying there and taking up the entire place so we stayed in another homestay a couple of hundred metres up the road. This was nearly as good as the Subandi homestay, but did not have the birding information available or wasn’t as well organised for getting up to and back from the forest. It is C5km from Kerisik Tua to the edge of the forest and that is a very long walk after 16 hours in the field.
7th July: We booked 3 Ojeks (motorbike taxis) to take us to the end of the road to the forest at dawn. It is then a C1km walk through fields up to the forest edge. We spent all day on Kerinci until about 2hrs after dark and unfortunately had to walk back down into the village after, mostly because we were too stupid to try flagging down any passing motorbike who will, it transpired on later days, happily give you a lift back down to the village for a few thousand Rhupias. If you can stay at Pak Subandi’s this is far easier to organise as he will organise Ojeks for you or will arrange for someone to pick you up in his jeep.
8th July: All morning on Kerinci again. We returned to the homestay for a break over the middle period of the day and to move our stuff round to Pak Subandi’s as we found out that the Birdtour team were leaving for a few days on the Tapan Road. Unfortunately as we were about to go out again for the afternoon and evening, the heavens opened so we stayed where we were and waited for the rain to stop. It didn’t!!
9th July: Same as previous day, morning session on Kerinci with a break for lunch in town and then afternoon and evening back on the mountain (now earning itself the thoroughly deserved nickname of Mount Doom).
10th July: All day on Kerinci again, apart from a brief break in the middle of the day when we had to return to town to vacate Pak Subandi’s for the returning Birdtour team, who had totally cleaned up on the Tapan Road and were heading back.
11th July: We decided the previous day that as the mountain was about to become more crowded again, some nice easy road based birding was in order so we had arranged with Pak Subandi to hire his vehicle and driver to take us off to the Tapan Road (cost C Rp500000 per day). We left pre dawn so we could start birding at dawn on the road. We stayed overnight in the highly recommended Hotel Aroma, Sungai Penuh.
12th July: All morning birding on the Tapan Road until the temperature increased and bird activity died off. We then returned to Mount Doom for more “character building” birding.
13th July: A whole fun filled day of action packed, bird filled rambling on Mount Doom. Spirits very low in the group by the end of the day!!
14th July: Enough is enough. With the urge to live fading fast we decided to leave Kerinci and head back to Java. Pak Subandi’s vehicle was chartered again to drop us off in Padang where we took an Air Asia flight to Jakarta. Booking on the net is definitely cheaper than paying on the day with Air Asia. We stayed the night in the Ibis Tamarin hotel Jakarta.
15th July: Charted a taxi to take us to Cibodas (Rp400000). Three hours later due to terrible traffic we arrived in Cibodas and booked into the excellent Freddie’s Homestay. Again, this is THE place to stay in Cibodas, friendly, cheap, spotlessly clean and there is a birder’s logbook too, and the Gado Gado is to die for!! Also Freddie’s eldest son Indrah is a razor sharp bird guide. If he is not available, younger brother Eddie can fill in, but Indrah should be your number 1 choice if you are hiring a guide here. We spent the afternoon birding in the fields around Cibodas and the evening birding with Indrah successfully looking for the mysterious Scop’s Owls that Cibodas is world famous for.
16th July: All day birding with Indrah on the main path up to Gunung Gede.
17th July: Morning and early afternoon birding with Indrah in the beautiful Cibodas Botanical Gardens and on the golf course. After we had finished birding, Indrah’s friend dropped us off in central Jakarta for Rp550000. Again, we stayed overnight in Ibis Tamarin Jakarta.
18th July: The previous day in Jakarta we had painfully arranged to hire an 8 seater minibus and driver for 5 days to take us to Way Kambas and Carita, and then finally drop us at the airport on afternoon of 22nd. Cost of this was Rp850000 per day (inc fuel and drivers living costs, but not including ferry fares and road tolls). We hired this from one of the travel agents on the main backpacker road Jalan Jaksa. Shop around and get some offers, our 3 offers varied from Rp850000 to Rp1200000 per day at the three places we visited. There were 5 of us for the visit to Way Kambas, which meant we had to hire a larger and more expensive vehicle. I think we could have got a jeep for around Rp600000 per day but that would have been amazingly uncomfortable for 5!! For accommodation at Way Kambas we had booked ourselves into the lodge 500metres outside the main park gate some weeks earlier, visit their website at http://www.sumatraelephantlodge.com/
Accommodation here is fantastic, very nice rooms and excellent food. Much better than the good old days of staying in the bungalows at Way Kanan!! However, nowadays there is also a nice looking guesthouse in the clearing at Way Kanan. I don’t know if it is still possible to stay in the bungalows in the park, taking in your own food and water etc as I did last time. Also, it is now no longer possible to go birding on your own in the park, unless you deliberately sneak around that is. It is COMPULSORY for individuals and groups to be accompanied by an armed national park ranger. This, of course, costs money, Rp50000 per ranger, per visit. The rangers however are excellent. They understand birders and follow you quietly at a discrete distance. We also found birding to be best at the Way Kanan end of the entrance track and this is where the trail is too, but with having our own vehicle, access into the park with the lodge’s guide, also compulsory was very easy.
We arrived just before dusk so popped out for what we thought would be a couple of hours birding just before and just after dusk on the first couple of kilometres of the track. Just as dark was falling however we found ourselves face to face with a HUGE bull Elephant standing on the track 50 metres away from us. It was amazing. It just appeared silently like a ghost in the twilight. As we backed away from it ready to beat a very hasty retreat, he did exactly the same and turned slowly round on the track. A few hundred metres back towards the entrance, we stood on the track and looked back, to see the same familiar face looking at us again. This time we decided not to push our luck any further as according to our guide, this bull was partially deaf and very unpredictable due to having an even worse than normal temper because of his deafness! We made our way back to the lodge and then slightly later saw the same Elephant again being chased out of the crops behind the lodge by the villagers.
19th July: Pre dawn and morning on the main track and loop trail. Back to lodge for lunch and then late afternoon and first couple of hours of dark on the main track.
20th July: Today we split up. Fred and Mark headed for the swamp to go Duck hunting with the compulsory rangers while the rest of us birded along the main track again in the morning. Afternoon and evening again spent on the main track.
21st July: After an unsuccessful trip over to the swamps for the Duck yesterday, Mark and Fred tried again earlier in the morning and this time went wading around waste deep in water. They deserved to see it today after this much effort and were rewarded with a sighting of a male. We left the lodge late in the morning and had originally intended to head to Carita to finish off our trip. However we had had such a gruelling trip that the overriding feeling of the party was that Carita was a bridge too far and was going to be a massive amount of effort to get there for just a night and one morning, so we decided to bin that idea and just go to Jakarta and get the minibus to pick us up the following afternoon and take us to the airport. We spent the night in the Ibis Arcadia.
22nd July: While the rest of us were lying in at the hotel, Pete heroically had an early morning trip out to Mauro Angke. He reported that the observation tower is now even more rusty and rickety than it was on our previous visit and that the trees surrounding it had grown to completely obscure the view from it. There is also a very aggressive troop of Macaques there, which we had read about in other trip reports. The boardwalk is still in a state of complete disrepair and Pete reported that there was no way of getting in to view the area easily anymore. He checked out some local football pitches for Javan Plover, but unfortunately there were games being played on both pitches and the Plovers weren’t on either team.
1. Streaked Shearwater (Calonectris leucomelas): 1 party of 3 seen in Sunda Strait
2. Swinhoe’s Storm Petrel (Oceanadroma monorhis): C10 seen from both ferry journeys between Sumatra and Java.
3. Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster): Seen at Mauro Angke (MA)
4. Great Egret (Ardea alba): Seen at MA.
5. Little Egret (Egretta garzetta): Many seen en route, as well as many unidentified egrets.
6. Javan Pond Heron (Ardeola speciosa): Seen at MA.
7. Cattle Egret (Bubulcus ibis): Recorded en route in Sumatra.
8. Striated Heron (Butorides striata): Recorded on both legs of ferry journeys between Sumatra and Java.
9. Black-crowned Night-heron (Nycticorax nycticorax): Recorded at MA
10. Lesser Adjutant (Leptoptilos javanicus): 4 seen in swamps at Way Kambas (WK).
11. Oriental Honey Buzzard (Pernis ptilorhynchus): Recorded on the way to Tapan Road (TR) Sumatra.
12. Black Shouldered Kite (Elanus caeruleus): Common in cultivated land around Kerinci
13. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus): 1 seen at Way Kambas around the clearing at Way Kanan.
14. White-bellied Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus leucogaster): Seen from both legs of ferry journeys between Sumatra and Java
15. Lesser Fish Eagle (Ichthyophaga humilis): Seen in swamps at WK.
16. Crested Serpent Eagle (Spilornis cheela): Several seen on Sumatra and 1 at Gunung Gede (GG).
17. Black Eagle (Ictinaetus malayensis): Common on Java and Sumatra.
18. Blyth’s Hawk Eagle (Spizaetus alboniger): 1 seen at Kerinci (K) at forest edge.
19. Javan Hawk Eagle (Spizaetus bartelsi): 1 or 2 seen from golf course at GG.
20. Black-thighed Falconet (Microhierax fringillarius): 3 seen at WK.
21. Spotted Kestrel (Falco moluccensis): 3+ seen at waterfalls and golf course at GG.
22. Chestnut-bellied Partridge (Arbrophilia javanica): Heard at GG.
23. Red Junglefowl (Gallus gallus): 1 at GG and 1 group on the main track at WK.
24. Salvadori’s Pheasant (Lophura inornata): Male and female seen together at K. Only seen by 1 person and our only encounter here. 2 very frustrating near misses also of single female and a family party.
25. Crested Fireback (Lophura ignita): Several small groups seen from main track at WK.
26. Sumatran (Bronze-tailed) Peacock Pheasant (Polyplectron chalcurum): Heard daily at K. One seen by one person in the dry riverbed. Also 1 frustratingly close encounter at the forest edge above the riverbed on same side of river as the main trail, one calling in very thick vegetation wouldn’t show itself. 2 other sightings by other groups of this same bird though.
27. White-breasted Waterhen (Amaurornis phoenicurus): Seen at MA.
28. Dusky Woodcock (Scolopax saturata): 2 or 3 seen in dry riverbed at dawn. Birds were roading and could be seen by concentrating lamps onto a clear patch of sky through the trees. Reasonable views if you caught one in the light as it flashed over. Other groups saw them using the same tactic at base shelter and in the small clearing just below here. Also heard at forest edge at dusk.
29. Great Crested Tern (Sterna bergii): A couple seen in the Sunda Strait.
30. Black-naped Tern (Sterna sumatrana): Common in Sunda Strait.
31. Bridled Tern (Sterna anaethetus): Several small groups in Sunda Strait.
32. Spotted Dove (Streptopelia chinensis): Seen en route in Sumatra and common in Cibodas Botanical Gardens and at MA.
33. Barred Cuckoo Dove (Macropygia unchall): Common at K.
34. Little Cuckoo Dove (Macropygia ruficeps): Recorded at Tapan Road (TR).
35. Emerald Dove (Chalcophaps indica): A few at WK.
36. Cinnamon-headed Green Pigeon (Treron fulvicollis): Seen in swamps at WK.
37. Sumatran Green Pigeon (Treron oxyurus): Large groups seen in fruiting tree at K and a couple seen on TR. Fantastic call!
38. Pink-headed Fruit Dove (Ptilinopus porphyreus): 1 Female at GG.
39. Green Imperial Pigeon (Ducula aenea): Common at WK.
40. Mountain Imperial Pigeon (Ducula badia): A couple seen at K.
41. Blue-crowned Hanging Parrot (Loriculus galgulus): Few seen at WK.
42. Yellow-throated Hanging Parrot (Loriculus pusillus): C20 seen at GG at forest edge on golf course and in particular in the Botanical Gardens.
43. Large Hawk Cuckoo (Cuculus sparverioides): Heard at K.
44. Plaintive Cuckoo (Cacomantis merulinus): Recorded at GG.
45. Asian Drongo Cuckoo (Surniculus lugubris): A couple seen on the TR.
46. Green-billed Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus tristis): A few seen on the TR.
47. Red-billed Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus javanicus): Recorded at WK.
48. Chestnut-breasted Malkoha (Phaenicophaeus curvirostris): A couple seen at GG.
49. Greater Coucal (Centropus sinensis): Recorded on Sumatra.
50. Lesser Coucal (Centropus bengalensis): Recorded on TR.
51. Mountain Scop’s Owl (Otus spilocephalus): Heard at K.
52. Rajah Scop’s Owl (Otus Brookii): Heard at K.
53. Otus sp. (Otus ???????): Juv seen at GG.
54. Barred Eagle Owl (Bubo Sumatranus): 2 seen well at K after being disturbed from their daytime roost. Also a probable seen drifting over the riverbed into the forest at dusk one evening.
55. Collared Owlet (Glaucidium brodiei): Heard at TR.
56. Brown Hawk Owl (Ninox scutulata): Heard at WK.
57. Large Frogmouth (Batrachostomus auritus): Heard on every nightbirding session at WK. 1 or 2 seen very well in flight over the main track as dawn broke on the last morning.
58. Gould’s Frogmouth (Batrachostomus stellatus): Several heard only at WK.
59. Short-tailed Frogmouth (Batrachostomus poliolophus): Heard at K, in riverbed and on first few hundred metres of the main trail. A couple responded to tapes but we didn’t see them.
60. Malaysian Eared Nightjar (Eurostopodus temminckii): Heard at WK over the track. Our search for this bird was rudely interrupted by a bull Elephant!!
61. Large-tailed Nightjar (Caprimulgus macrurus): Heard at WK.
62. Savannah Nightjar (Caprimulgus affinis): Heard in Jakarta.
63. Bonaparte’s Nightjar (Caprimulgus concretus): One seen and heard giving its truly bizarre call in the first clearing about 500metres down the track from Way Kanan. One other heard around the junction of the main track and the road to the Sumatran Rhino Centre.
64. Salvadori’s Nightjar (Capromulgus pulchellus): We think we heard this at forest edge at K. Frog sp not ruled out however!!
65. Waterfall (Giant) Swiflet (Hydrochous gigas): A few seen high up over the boardwalk at GG.
66. Glossy Swiftlet (Collocalia esculenta): Common on Sumatra.
67. Linchi Swiftlet (collocalia linchi): Common at GG.
68. Edible-nest Swiftlet (Aerodramus fuciphagus): Recorded at K.
69. Grey-rumped Treeswift (Hemiprocne longipennis): A few seen at WK.
70. Whiskered Treeswift (Hemiprocne comata): A few seen at both TR and WK.
71. Blue-tailed Trogon (Harpactes reinwardtii): Apparently now split into 2 species. 5 Sumatran birds were seen at K and 1 Javan bird seen very well at GG.
72. Red-naped Trogon (Harpactes kasumba): 1 Female seen at WK.
73. Blue-eared Kingfisher (Alcedo meninting): 2 or 3 seen at WK.
74. Banded Kingfisher (Lacedo pulchella): Heard at WK.
75. Stork-billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis): Common at WK.
76. White-throated Kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis): A pair in the grounds of the lodge at WK.
77. Javan Kingfisher (Halcyon cyanoventris): 1 seen in Cibodas in the fields below the town and one seen on golf course at GG. Seems to be very shy. Both times only seen in flight.
78. Collared Kingfisher (Todiramphus Chloris): Common around Cibodas.
79. Sacred Kingfisher (Todiramphus sanctus): Seen at MA.
80. Rufous-collared Kingfisher (Actenoides concretus): Heard and seen from main track at WK at dawn, just after the road off to the Rhino Centre.
81. Red-bearded Bee Eater (Nyctyornis amictus): Heard at WK.
82. White-crowned Hornbill (Aceros comatus): 2 seen. Accidentally flushed from a roosting site right over the main track C2kms down track from Way Kanan. There were several piles of rocks by the side of the track in the vicinity of the roost site, just before the first bridge you come to.
83. Wreathed Hornbill (Aceros undulatus): 4 seen on TR and a small group seen high up on K.
84. Brown Barbet (Calorhamphus fuliginosus): Several seen around fruiting trees at WK.
85. Fire-tufted Barbet (Psilopogon pyrolophus): Recorded at K. Common on TR and also seen at GG where it has recently established itself.
86. Brown-throated Barbet (Megalaima corvina): 1 seen at GG.
87. Red-crowned Barbet (Megalaima rafflesii): Quite common at WK. Several seen in fruiting trees.
88. Black-browed Barbet (Megalaima oorti): Seen at K and TR. Common.
89. Orange-fronted Barbet (Megalaima armillaris): Common at GG.
90. Speckled Piculet (Picumnus innominatus): 1 seen at TR.
91. Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker (Dendrocopus macei): Seen at MA.
92. White-bellied Woodpecker (Dryocopus javensis): 2 seen at WK.
93. Lesser Yellownape (Picus chlorolophus): Common on TR.
94. Checker-throated Woodpecker (Picus mentalis): 1 seen at GG.
95. Maroon Woodpecker (Blythipicus rubiginosus): Seen at WK.
96. Orange-backed Woodpecker (Reinwardtipicus validus): A few seen at WK.
97. Grey and Buff Woodpecker (Hemicircus concretus): A few seen at WK.
98. Long-tailed Broadbill (Psarisomus dalhousiae): A couple of small flocks seen on TR.
99. Black and Yellow Broadbill (Eurylaimus ochromalus): Heard at WK.
100. Dusky Broadbill (Corydon sumatranus): 2 or 3 seen at WK.
101. Schneider’s Pitta (Pitta schneideri): 1 seen on 2 occasions at K. A male was calling non-stop for half an hour at C17.00hrs on day 1 and was seen briefly after responding to 1 playback of call around 500metres in from the forest edge where the first fallen tree crosses the trail, just before trail does first sharp left turn. Same bird gave superb views the following morning just off the main trail on first small trail off to left about 400metres in from forest edge. This male called sporadically over the next few days but was not seen again. There are a couple of woodcutters trails running into this territory but the ground vegetation is VERY dense in here. Further calling birds were heard from the base shelter and also a couple of hundred metres along the trail up from here. Evenings seemed best for calling. The lower male would barely respond to playback in the morning, but would call non-stop for several minutes in the evenings. Only seen by 2 out of the 4 of us. One enormously frustrating very near miss when a male was flushed off the trail seconds before 2 of our group arrived at same spot, just above the base shelter on a long, fairly open, wide stretch of trail. Every other group here was struggling for sightings too. All sightings during our stay were of males. We suspect this year’s El Nino / La Nina had meant a later than normal breeding season as, apparently, there was a longer than usual rainy season in the spring. NB. Calling birds are MUCH closer than you think they are!!!
102. Banded Pitta (Pitta guajana): 1 male seen from loop trail at WK. A few others heard giving alarm call 1 other seen by the group.
103. Graceful Pitta (Pitta venusta): 1 seen at TR in traditional gully. An amazing stroke of luck. We crept into the gully, played the call once and immediately noticed the bird on the bank close above us. It showed very well for about a minute as it ran around on the bank. 1 other bird heard calling. Best tactic for this species is to search for as many roadside gullies as you can find and to creep into as many as possible and listen for it. We found several accessible gullies, always running up off the road and never down. NB it is also well worth doing exactly the same for Marbled Wren Babbler here, as birds were heard and seen on both days previous to our visit, by 2 separate groups. Unfortunately we didn’t even hear them.
104. Pacific Swallow (Hirundo tahitica): Common at TR.
105. Sunda Cuckoo Shrike (Coracina larvata): 1 or 2 seen at GG. May now be split as Javan Cuckoo Shrike.
106. Pied Triller (Lalage nigra): Seen at MA
107. Sunda Minivet (Pericrocotus miniatus): Common at K and GG.
108. Grey-chinned Minivet (Pericrocotus solaris): Common at K.
109. Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike (Hemipus picatus): Common at K and TR
110. Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike (Hemipus hirundinaceus): A couple seen at GG.
111. Cream-striped Bulbul (Pycnonotus leucogrammicus): Common at TR.
112. Spot-necked Bulbul (Pycnonotus tympanistrigus): Common at TR.
113. Sooty-headed Bulbul (Pycnonotus aurigaster): Common in degraded habitat at Cibodas, en route to WK and at MA.
114. Orange-spotted Bulbul (Pycnonotus bimaculatus): Recorded at K and GG.
115. Yellow-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus goiavier): Seen en route to K, at K and at MA.
116. Cream-vented Bulbul (Pycnonotus simplex): Common at WK.
117. Red-eyed Bulbul (Pycnonotus brunneus): Small numbers seen at WK.
118. Ochraceous Bulbul (Alophoixus ochraceus): Small numbers seen at TR.
119. Sunda Bulbul (Ixos virecsens): Seen at K and GG.
120. Greater Green Leafbird (Chloropsis sonnerati): 2 or 3 seen at WK.
121. Blue-winged Leafbird (Chloropsis cochinchinensis): 1 seen at WK.
122. Blue-masked Leafbird (Chloropsis venusta): 2 seen at TR.
123. Common Iora (Aegithina tiphia): Seen at GG and MA.
124. Blue Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius): 1 seen at K.
125. Shiny Whistling Thrush (Myophonus melanurus): Common at K.
126. Sunda Whistling Thrush (Myophonus glaucinus): Now apparently split into 2 species, Sumatran and Javan. Sumatran uncommon at K and TR Javan common at GG.
127. Lesser Shortwing (Brachypteryx leucophrys): Common at K.
128. White-browed Shortwing (Brachypteryx montana): Common at higher elevations on K. 1 seen at GG, apparently a good bet for future splitting!
129. Hill Prinia (Prinia atrogularis): Common at TR and also seen in fields at K.
130. Bar-winged Prinia (Prinia familiaris): Common at GG in degraded habitat.
131. Javan Tesia (Tesia superciliaris): A few seen well at GG.
132. Oriental Reed Warbler (Acrocephalus orientalis): Seen at MA.
133. Mountain Tailorbird (Orthotomus cuculatus): Common at K.
134. Common Tailorbird (Orthotomus sutorius): Common at WK.
135. Rufous-tailed Tailorbird (Orthotomus sericeus): Recorded at WK.
136. Mountain Leaf Warbler (Phylloscopus trivirgatus): Common at K and at GG.
137. Chestnut-crowned Warbler (Seicercus castaniceps): 1 seen at TR.
138. Sunda Warbler (Seicercus grammiceps): Common at K and GG.
139. Yellow-bellied Warbler (Abroscopus superciliaris): 1 seen at TR.
140. Striated Grassbird (Megalurus palustris): A few seen at Cibodas.
141. Grey-chested Jungle Flycatcher (Rhinomyias umbratilis): 1 seen at TR.
142. Snowy-browed Flycatcher (Ficedula hyperythra): Common at GG and K.
143. Little Pied Flycatcher (Ficedula westermanni): Common at GG and K.
144. Verditer Flycatcher (Eumyias thalassinus): Common at TR and recorded at GG.
145. Indigo Flycatcher (Eumyias indigo): Few seen at GG and K.
146. Large Niltava (Niltava grandis): Quite common on K.
147. Rufous-vented Niltava (Niltava sumatrana): Few seen at higher elevations on K.
148. Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher (Culicicapa ceylonensis): Common at K.
149. White-rumped Shama (Copsychus malabaricus): Few seen at WK.
150. Sunda Blue Robin (Cinclidium diana): Common at K and GG.
151. Sunda Forktail (Enicurus velatus): Common at TR, mainly on the road!
152. White-crowned Forktail (Enicurus leschenaulti): A couple seen at Cibodas.
153. Sumatran Cochoa (Cochoa beccarii): Heard once or twice at high elevations on K. 1 adult male seen very well in fruiting tree low down on the mountain, at the very first fork in the path, below the base shelter from the small clearing full of Banana plants.
154. Javan Cochoa (Cochoa azurea): Crippling views of a male and 2 immatures just below the hot springs at GG.
155. Rufous-tailed Fantail (Rhipidura phoenicura): Common at GG in bird waves.
156. White-throated Fantail (Rhipidura albicollis): Very common at K.
157. Pied Fantail (Rhipidura javanica): Seen at MA.
158. Black-naped Monarch (Hypothymis azurea): A couple seen at WK.
159. Asian Paradise Flycatcher (Terpsiphone paradisi): Small numbers at WK.
160. Chestnut-capped Laughingthrush (Garrulax mitratus): Common at TR.
161. Abbott’s Babbler (Malacocincla abbotti): Common at WK.
162. Horsfield’s Babbler (Malacocincla sepiaria): Common at GG.
163. Short-tailed Babbler (Malacocincla malaccensis): 1 or 2 seen at WK.
164. Black-capped Babbler (Pellorneum capistratum): 1 or 2 seen at WK.
165. Long-billed (Sumatran) Wren Babbler (Rimator malacoptilus): Now apparently split from the mainland bird. Heard commonly at K. Everyone saw one or two each when we learnt the song!
166. Rusty-breasted Wren Babbler (Napothera rufipectus): Heard everywhere at K. Difficult to see, but everyone saw this species well with a little persistence.
167. Eye-browed Wren Babbler (Napotherea epilepidota): Regularly seen at K. Heard at GG.
168. Pygmy Wren Babbler (Pnoepyga pusilla): Common at K. Also seen at GG. Fantastic bird!
169. Golden Babbler (Stachyris chrysaea): Common at K and TR.
170. Grey-throated Babbler (Stachyris nigriceps): VERY common at K.
171. Spot-necked Babbler (Stachyris striolata): Uncommon at K.
172. Chestnut-winged Babbler (Stachyris erythroptera): 1 seen at WK.
173. Crescent-chested Babbler (Stachyris melanothorax): A few seen at GG.
174. White-browed Shrike Babbler (Pteruthius flaviscapis): Common at GG. Lovely bird!
175. Chestnut-fronted Shrike Babbler (Pteruthius aenobarbus): A few seen at GG.
176. Javan Fulvetta (Alcippe pyrrohoptera): Common at GG.
177. Long-tailed Sibia (Heterophasia picaoides): A few seen at K and TR.
178. Pygmy Tit (Psaltria exilis): C5 – 10 seen in Cibodas Botanical Gardens.
179. Golden-bellied Gerygone (Gerygone sulphurea): Recorded at MA.
180. Great Tit (Parus major): Recorded at K, GG and TR.
181. Blue Nuthatch (Sitta azurea): Common at K and GG. Beautiful little bird.
182. Plain-throated Sunbird (Anthreptes malacensis): Small numbers at WK.
183. White-flanked Sunbird (Aethopyga eximia): Small numbers seen at GG.
184. Javan Sunbird (Aethopyga mystacalis): Small numbers seen at GG.
185. Temminck’s Sunbird (Aethopyga temminckii): Fairly common at WK.
186. Little Spiderhunter (Arachnothera longirostra): Recorded at WK.
187. Orange-bellied Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trigonostigma): Recorded at TR.
188. Blood-breasted Flowerpecker (Dicaeum sanguinolentum): Recorded at K and TR.
189. Scarlet-headed Flowerpecker (Dicaeum trochileum): 1 or 2 seen at WK.
190. Oriental White-eye (Zosterops palpebrosus): Common at K, TR, and GG.
191. Black-capped White-eye (Zosterops atricapilla): Fairly common at K.
192. Mountain White-eye (Zosterops montanus): A few seen at K, in amongst the far more common Orientals.
193. Javan Grey-throated White-eye (Lophozosterops javanicus): A few seen at GG.
194. Black and Crimson Oriole (Oriolus cruentus): A few see at TR.
195. Asian Fairy Bluebird (Irena puella): Common at WK.
196. Long-tailed Shrike (Lanius schach): Common in degraded habitat on Sumatra.
197. Ashy Drongo (Dicrurus leucophaeus): Common at TR and GG.
198. Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo (Dicrurus remifer): A few seen at TR and WK.
199. Sumatran Drongo (Dicrurus sumatranus): A few seen at TR.
200. White-breasted Woodswallow (Artamus leucorynchus): 1 or 2 seen en route to K and seen in swamps at WK.
201. Green Magpie (Cissa chinensis): 1 or 2 seen at K and TR.
202. Sumatran Treepie (Dendrocitta occipitalis): Common at TR.
203. Slender-billed Crow (Corvus enca): Recorded in swamps at WK.
204. Hill Myna (Gracula religiosa): Common at WK.
205. Javan Myna (Acridotheres javanicus): Common in fields at K.
206. Tree Sparrow (Passer montanus): Cmomon at K and GG.
207. Tawny-breasted Parrotfinch (Erythrura hyperythra): 1 seen very well at GG.
208. Javan Munia (Lonchura leucogastroides): A few seen at WK.
209. Scaly-breasted Munia (Lonchura punctulata): A few seen en route to K and a few at GG.
210. Mountain Serin (Serinus estherae): A pair seen in low vegetation by the side of the trail at GG, just below hot springs. A very smart bird.