Day 1: Saturday 31st July We flew from Gatwick to Phoenix via Newark with Continental Airlines.  Both flights took off and arrived on time.  It was about 9.15pm when we touched down at Sky Harbor International and about an hour or so later when we drove the short distance to the nearby Best Western Airport Inn.  It had been a long day and the only birds seen were House Sparrows. Photo: Grand Canyon - Peter Dedicoat

Day 2: Sunday 1st August

We left Phoenix at 8.00am and headed south on I-10.  After a brief diversion into Casa Grande to get supplies of food and water, our first stop for birding was at the Pinal Air Park pecan grove.  Here we walked a short distance around the edge of the grove and along the dirt road to the south.  The abandoned pecan grove has long been known as a productive area for birding and it has an impressive record of rarities.  This morning’s visit, however, was more about getting our first looks at some of Arizona’s reasonably common birds.  Among the species quickly found were noisy Western Kingbirds, gaudy Vermilion Flycatchers and Hooded Orioles, American Kestrel, Phainopepla, Swainson’s Hawks, Loggerhead Shrike and Lucy’s Warbler.  For some of us there were also brief glimpses of Abert’s Towhee and Greater Roadrunner.  Already it was hot, probably 85ºF or more, and we weren’t yet acclimatised - before too long we were ready to get back to our air-conditioned Chevy 15-seater!

We continued our journey south towards Tucson.  By the time we reached Sweetwater Wetlands, just off Prince Road west of I-10, the weather was beginning to change.  It was becoming cloudy and there was quite a breeze and it was definitely a bit cooler.  The ponds and marshes at Sweetwater, created to help treat secondary effluent from the adjacent wastewater treatment plant, were opened to the public in 1998.  They attract a variety of water-loving birds, particularly waterfowl and shorebirds.  Species seen during our short visit were Ruddy Duck, American Coot, Mallard, Killdeer, Song Sparrow, Common Yellowthroat, Gambel’s Quail, Yellow Warbler, Indigo Bunting, Abert’s Towhee and Barn Swallow.

After lunch we drove out to the west of Tucson to the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum.  The road passes through a magnificent forest of saguaro cacti and when we stopped to admire the view, we saw our first Black-throated Sparrow, Canyon Towhee and Cactus Wren.  By the time we arrived at the museum a strong wind was blowing and a severe dust storm was approaching, but fortunately, this passed us by and we were able to enjoy a leisurely walk around the many exhibits.  The Desert Museum displays many of the plants, vertebrates, and even arthropods of the area in naturalistic settings and is a wonderful place to learn about the flora and fauna of the desert.  It also attracts many wild birds and amongst those we saw were Verdin, Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Gila Woodpecker and a Northern Cardinal feeding a young Brown-headed Cowbird.  We also enjoyed the hummingbird aviary where we spent some time practising our identification skills.

We stayed until the museum closed and then drove back to Tucson for our overnight stay at the Radisson on E Speedway Blvd.

Day 3: Monday 2nd August

After an early breakfast, we set off from the hotel at 7.15am.  We stopped to buy lunch, but otherwise headed straight to Willcox Twin Lakes, probably the best site in southeast Arizona for finding waterfowl and shorebirds.  Although we did eventually drive right round the main lake, to begin with we stood in one spot from which we were able to see the vast majority of the birds present.  Shorebirds included one each of Marbled Godwit, Long-billed Curlew and Snowy Plover, the last of these quite a scarce bird in Arizona these days, although formerly an irregular breeding species at Willcox.  Wilson’s Phalaropes were numerous, around 200 counted, and there were smaller numbers of American Avocets, Black-necked Stilts, Baird’s, Spotted, Least and Western Sandpipers, Killdeers and Long-billed Dowitchers.  On the water we found just two Eared Grebes, but plenty of Ruddy Ducks and also a few Cinnamon Teal and Mallard.

At the nearby, smaller lake, which is adjacent to the Willcox Municipal Golf Course there were only a few Ruddy Ducks on the water, but as we ate our picnic lunch we saw Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Eastern Meadowlark, Loggerhead Shrike, Scaled Quail and two Black-crowned Night Herons.  When we went for a short walk along the edge of the lake, the Scaled Quail allowed us to approach to within a surprisingly short distance.  We also found a small group of Lark Sparrows on the golf course.

The drive from here to Portal was uneventful.  However, it became clear from the amount of water lying everywhere that yesterday’s storm had passed this way – there had obviously been a lot of rain.  In view of this and wanting to take no chances, we took the longer route via Road Forks, New Mexico, so as to stay on paved roads virtually all the way.  We saw a few Chihuahuan Ravens, but little else and we arrived at Portal Peak Lodge just after 3.00pm.  Portal lies on the eastern fringe of the Chiricahua Mountains and is an ideal base for birding desert, canyon and higher elevation habitats.  The town comprises about a dozen homes, a library, a post office and the store/café/lodge.

After settling into our accommodation, we spent the rest of the afternoon walking around Portal.  Most of the residents seem to be birders and there are several properties with feeders viewable from the road.  Main St. also has many trees, mainly sycamores, and there are always plenty of birds to see.  Today there were Black-headed and Blue Grosbeaks, House Finches, White-breasted Nuthatches, Acorn Woodpeckers, Vermilion Flycatcher, Lark Sparrows, Western Wood-Pewee, Cactus Wren, Hooded Orioles, Cassin’s Kingbird, Curve-billed Thrasher, Bridled Titmouse, Tree Swallow, Bronzed Cowbird and both Black-chinned and Blue-throated Hummingbirds.

Day 4: Tuesday 3rd August

Pre-breakfast birding in Main St. between 6.00am and 7.30am produced many of the species seen in the same location yesterday, but we also found Brown-crested Flycatcher and Western Tanager.

After breakfast we left Portal, taking the road past the Southwestern Research Station heading uphill in the direction of Rustler Park and Barfoot Lookout.  We made just one stop on the way, before we had really gained much height when several noisy Mexican Jays attracted our attention.  When we got out of the van and walked along the road, we found a mixed species flock that included Bridled Titmouse, Grace’s and Black-throated Grey Warblers and Brown Creeper.  A Western Wood-Pewee was also seen.

As we continued our journey, the road became narrow, steep and winding and in places the surface was pretty rough.  The views, however, were magnificent.  When we reached Barfoot Junction, at an elevation of almost 8,000 feet, we decided we should have another walk.  It was some time, however, before we actually set off because as soon as we left the van we found another flock of birds.  These proved to be mainly Pygmy Nuthatches and Mexican Chickadees, but with a few Yellow-eyed Juncos in attendance.  Mexican Chickadee was our main target here and after driving 15 miles from Portal we had managed to stop and park next to several of them!  Although widespread in Mexico, this species has a very limited range in the USA, occurring only in the Chiricahuas and in the Animas Mountains of New Mexico.  It was good to see them so easily and so well.

When we did walk it was along the road towards Rustler Park.  There was quite a major fire here several years ago and there are still areas of blackened trees where there is little sign of regeneration.  It was here that we saw a Hairy Woodpecker, several Northern Flickers and a family of Western Bluebirds.  Unfortunately, at midday it began to rain quite heavily and it continued to rain for the rest of the day with hardly a break.  As we sat in the van eating our lunch there was hail as well as rain and it was pretty miserable.  After a while it did brighten sufficiently for us to think it might be worthwhile driving on to Barfoot Park and we did manage to get most of the way there.  However, the road became so bad that we parked and walked the last couple of hundred yards.  The hail had given the forest floor a covering that looked like snow as we made our way down to the grassy meadow.  For all this effort we saw only an American Robin, although we did hear the calls of what sounded like a raptor of some sort.  Could this have been one of the Short-tailed Hawks that we had been hoping to find here?  We’ll never know!  There certainly didn’t seem much prospect of anything flying with the weather as it was.  In fact the weather deteriorated further and our walk back to the van was accompanied by thunder and lightning.

The only sensible option now was to go back downhill and hope to find some better weather at lower elevation.  We went to the George Walker House, the home of Jackie Walker, in the small ‘town’ of Paradise.  As always Jackie made us very welcome and for an hour or more we sat in her ‘yard’ watching birds coming to the feeders.  Throughout most of this time it was raining only quite lightly!  Species seen were Rufous, Broad-tailed, Black-chinned and Magnificent Hummingbirds, Black-headed Grosbeak, White-breasted Nuthatch, House Finch, Pine Siskin and Bronzed Cowbird.

Eventually we set off back to Portal, arriving there at 5.20pm.  On the way we saw a Coyote.  It remained dismal and wet.

Day 5: Wednesday, 4th August

Today was spent in the company of Portal-based bird guide, Dave Jasper.  Starting with a pre-breakfast visit to his property along the San Simon Road, adjacent to the Big Thicket, we had a great day’s birding, benefiting from his local knowledge and expertise.  The first example of this was stopping to see a Botteri’s Sparrow, a species that doesn’t normally occur in the Portal area.  Often secretive, this sparrow is usually found in grassland, but this lone male had established a territory amongst scattered mesquite scrub and Dave had been seeing it for some days.

When we arrived at Dave’s, Bewick’s Wrens and a Black-tailed Gnatcatcher performed well but only brief views were had of Bushtits and a Crissal Thrasher.  At his feeders we saw another species that is uncommon in the area – a Painted Bunting.  Unfortunately, this wasn’t a colourful adult male, but a dull immature bird, but not one that was expected.  Also seen well here were Black-throated Sparrows, Pyrrhuloxias, Canyon Towhees, Gambel’s Quails, Western Scrub-Jay and Rufous Hummingbird.  It was inevitable that we would be late back for breakfast!

After breakfast we headed out to the famous South Fork of Cave Creek Canyon.  A Spotted Sandpiper in the middle of the road on the way there was a rather bizarre sight.  Along the approach to the canyon, we stopped several times, looking and listening and eventually located what for most people is the star bird of any tour to Arizona – Elegant Trogon.  As usual we heard it first of all and then headed in the direction of the soft croaking call.  It took a while before we actually saw the bird and rather surprisingly, so late in the season, it was at a nest hole.  It stayed still long enough for us to admire its brilliant metallic colours through our ‘scopes and when it did move it was quickly relocated.  Possibly it was still caring for some young.

While we were looking for the Elegant Trogon, we also had good views of Painted Redstarts, Hutton’s and Plumbeous Vireos.  Some of us had a brief view of an Arizona Woodpecker.

Next we drove part way along the Herb Martyr Road, stopping off to bird around several unoccupied properties, but without much success.  We did see a Black-throated Grey Warbler here, its colour scheme matching the day.

It was now a toss-up between going down to the desert below Portal or going further uphill.  After some debate, we chose the latter option and it proved to be the wrong one.  We went as far as the Paradise road junction where we hoped we might find Red-faced Warblers.  In the event, we found next to nothing and the weather deteriorated – a storm was close, lightning and thunder not quite simultaneous, but near enough.

We headed back to the Herb Martyr Campground where we had lunch and later had a walk down to the dam.  Here, as the rain held off for a while, we had good views of Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher and Steller’s Jay.  There were Yellow-eyed Juncos all around, a Spotted Towhee appeared briefly and 30 or more White-throated Swifts were overhead.

As the clouds rolled in again, we finally headed down to the desert.  We stopped on the way to check out a Burrowing Owl nest site, but there was no one home.  All was not lost, though, as we did see Ash-throated Flycatcher here and had an excellent view of Scaled Quail.

Along Stateline Road we found Cassin’s Sparrows and Blue Grosbeak and then a mixed flock of Lark Sparrows and Lazuli Buntings.  There were probably only two or three of the latter and as they flew away, we also saw amongst them what might have been another Painted Bunting.  We crossed into New Mexico to the town of Rodeo and searched unsuccessfully for Bendire’s Thrasher in all the usual sites.  We did see an Eastern Meadowlark, a Swainson’s Hawk and a couple of Say’s Phoebes.  Although voice is always the preferred method of differentiating between Western and Eastern Meadowlarks, we were able on this occasion to see the much whiter outer tail feathers of Eastern or ‘Lilian’s Meadowlark’.

Later, back in Portal, we walked along Main Street and found two species that we hadn’t seen before – Juniper Titmouse and Violet-crowned Hummingbird.  The hummer was chasing any bird that came within range and was probably nesting nearby.

Our plan was to have an early dinner and then go out with Dave to find Common Poorwills, Western and Whiskered Screech-Owls, all of which he thought would be easy to see.  It shouldn’t really have been a surprise that further heavy rain prevented us even attempting this – a disappointing end to an otherwise excellent day.

Day 6: Thursday, 5th August

Our plans for pre-breakfast birding were disrupted by rain, but some of us braved the elements for half an hour or so without seeing anything new.

After breakfast, we left Portal, going south to join Hwy 80.  Along Stateline Road we went slowly looking for Bendire’s Thrasher, but again we struck out.

Our only stop on the way to Whitewater Draw was at the small ‘town’ of Apache, where a roadside monument commemorates the final surrender of Geronimo in nearby Skeleton Canyon in 1886.  The capture of the Apache leader effectively brought to an end Indian guerrilla action in the USA.  From a treetop across the road from the monument a juvenile Swainson’s Hawk was calling loudly.

Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area is a 1500-acre property, situated at the southern end of the Sulphur Springs Valley between Bisbee and Elfrida.  It was purchased in January 1997 by the Arizona Game & Fish Department to provide habitat for waterfowl and Sandhill Cranes and wildlife viewing and hunting opportunities.  Funding for management comes primarily from the state lottery via the Heritage Fund and recent habitat improvements and the erection of a hide shows that the project is ongoing.  Our visit today produced only a dozen Cinnamon Teal and a couple of Mallard actually on the water, but there was a good variety of shorebirds including Greater Yellowlegs, Wilson’s Phalarope, Spotted, Baird’s, Least and Western Sandpipers, American Avocets and Long-billed Dowitchers, and a handful of White-faced Ibises.  In willows along the edge of one of the pools, we found Vermilion Flycatcher, Western Tanager, Yellow and MacGillivray’s Warblers and Song Sparrow.  Nearby there was a Loggerhead Shrike.

As we walked back to our vehicle for food, we saw two Great Horned Owls some distance away across the far side of one of the pools and concluded that they were both juvenile birds.  A few minutes later, when we entered the large barn that dominates the site, an adult Great Horned Owl, presumably one of the parents of these young birds, was found roosting on a beam above our heads.  It remained there while we ate our lunch and didn’t seem bothered by our presence. Photo: Great Horned Owl - Peter Dedicoat

We continued our journey via Bisbee to Sierra Vista, but had two more stops to make.  The first of these was at Beatty’s Miller Canyon Guest Ranch, the home of Tom and Edith Beatty, which has become one of the best places in Arizona to see hummingbirds.  A total of 15 species has been recorded here since 1998; during our short stay we saw nine, including Anna’s, Calliope and the rare White-eared that we hadn’t seen before.  It was quite a show and it was hard to drag ourselves away.

Unfortunately, as we drove on towards to Sierra Vista, a storm could be seen only a short distance away to the west and as we reached the Nature Conservancy’s Ramsey Canyon Preserve the downpour began.  It was the perfect excuse to look round the excellent shop and to make essential purchases of books, postcards and T-shirts.

We reached our hotel in Sierra Vista at 5.30pm and later enjoyed Mexican cuisine at ‘La Casita’.  The rain seemed to continue for most of the night.

Day 7: Friday, 6th August

After breakfast we set off at about 7.15am, picked up some lunch at the Safeway and decided to head straight for Scheelite Canyon while the weather was still reasonable.  This involved completing entry and security formalities at Fort Huachuca, but soon we were through the gate, driving past the hand grenade ranges and up into Garden Canyon.

Scheelite Canyon, an offshoot of Garden Canyon, is home to the most-watched Spotted Owls in the USA.  It is a short but steep climb up the trail, but on most days the reward is a close-up look at one or more very special birds.  Unfortunately, today wasn’t one of those days.  We went up the trail and down again, looking in all the likely trees, but there was simply no sign of them.  We weren’t the only ones looking either.  The likelihood seems to be that the heavy overnight rain drove the owls out of their normal roosting area to shelter in the rocks and caves above.  It was a major disappointment.  However, consolation came in the shape of Elegant Trogons, Canyon Wrens, Arizona Woodpeckers, Sulphur-bellied Flycatchers, Painted Redstarts and Western Wood-Pewees, all of which we saw well.

We dropped back down to the Upper Picnic Area of Garden Canyon where we planned to walk.  However, hardly had we set off when the weather intervened once again and we were forced to shelter for a while during a torrential thunderstorm.  Eventually a decision was made to leave the mountains and to try and drive out of the adverse weather.  We headed for San Pedro House, the primary access point to the San Pedro Riparian National Conservation Area.  Designated a Globally Important Bird Area in 1996 by the American Bird Conservancy, this 56,000-acre preserve along the upper San Pedro River is home to over 100 species of breeding birds and provides invaluable habitat for over 250 species of migrant and wintering birds.

On arrival our first priority was lunch!  We found picnic tables that gave us a view of nearby bird feeders and sat and watched House Finches, Lesser Goldfinches, Blue Grosbeak and Common Ground-Doves coming for seed.  Next we walked down to the river and then along the bank as far as Kingfisher Pond, now looking rather sorry as a result of damage to the surrounding trees caused by Beavers.  Birds seen included Vermilion Flycatcher, Summer Tanager, Bewick’s Wren, Black Phoebe, Lazuli Bunting, Yellow-breasted Chat, American Coot, Swainson’s Hawk, Ladder-backed and Gila Woodpeckers and two Green Herons.

We left the San Pedro at about 4.00pm to go to Mary Jo Ballator’s Ash Canyon Bed & Breakfast, another property open to birders and with a great record for hummingbirds.  We had heard that a Lucifer Hummingbird had been a regular visitor here recently, but today we were out of luck.  We sat for an hour and a half watching the feeders, but saw only four species – Broad-billed, Broad-tailed, Anna’s and Black-chinned.  A Ladder-backed Woodpecker appeared briefly and a Curve-billed Thrasher called ‘wit-weet’, but overall it was disappointing and certainly nowhere near as good as yesterday’s visit to Beattys’.

We were back at our hotel for 6.30pm and again walked to ‘La Casita’ for dinner.   

Day 8: Saturday, 7th August  

We left Sierra Vista at 7.15am, again picked up lunch at the local Safeway and then headed towards Green Valley for our next overnight stay.  The distance between the two towns is roughly 100 miles, maybe an hour and a half, but with numerous good birding sites to be visited on the way, this was a journey that would take up most of the day.

Our first stop was at Patagonia, where just a few blocks from the main street through town, on the edge of the Patagonia-Sonoita Creek Preserve, lies a nondescript ranch house that is no less than one of the most famous bird-watching sites in the world.  This is the home of Mrs Marion Paton.  You don't need an appointment to visit Mrs. Paton's backyard.  You don't even have to knock on her door to ask permission to go around the side of the house to the viewing area.  You just walk in through the gate and sit down in front of a row of feeders and enjoy the spectacle.  During our short visit Violet-crowned, Black-chinned and Broad-billed Hummingbirds, Gila Woodpecker and Gambel’s Quails were just some of the species seen.

 

About four miles out of Patagonia along Hwy 82 is another famous birding site – Patagonia Roadside Rest.  Several rarities have been found here over the years, but it is also one of the most reliable places to see Thick-billed Kingbirds.  To quickly prove the point, as soon as we got out of the van, two of these noisy birds were seen across the road in the top of a sycamore.  We looked in vain along Sonoita Creek for the other scarce species that breeds here, Rose-throated Becard, but we did see Yellow-breasted Chat, Bewick’s Wren and Phainopepla.  Soaring above were Turkey Vultures and with them the only three Black Vultures of our tour. Photo: Phainopepla - Peter Dedicoat

Next stop was Patagonia Lake State Park and inevitably on a Saturday it was crowded with people, many of them ‘camping’.  This meant that there was a great deal of disturbance by boats and very few birds actually on the water.  Apart from American Coots, we found only one female Ruddy Duck and a few Neotropic Cormorants.  We walked the trail that winds along the back side of the reeds in the southeast corner of the lake and picked our way through the trees at the edge of the mesquite.  Yellow Warblers were common in the willows and Common Yellowthroats were in the reeds and singing Bell’s Vireos were numerous to the point that most of us actually saw one!  Two Green Herons were flushed, a Great Egret was at the water’s edge and an Osprey flew by carrying a fish.  However, all of this was eclipsed by the sight of a tiny Black-capped Gnatcatcher sitting on a nest.  Not only was this ‘cute’, it was also very rare.  This is an extremely scarce bird in the USA and there would have been little chance of us finding the nest had we not been given some directions a few days earlier.  Even with the directions, it was a hard task.

Another four miles to the west along Hwy 82 is Kino Springs Golf Course.  Part of this area has been undergoing restoration during the last couple of years and it was good to see it in much better shape than on our last visit.  Most of the trees that once surrounded the first pond have gone, but at least there is water in there again.  As we pulled up alongside the pond, a stunning male Varied Bunting was spotted at the water’s edge.  It was the nearest bird to us, but with Spotted Sandpipers and Black-bellied Whistling Ducks much more obvious, it unfortunately escaped the attention of some of the group.  We also saw Vermilion Flycatcher, Lark Sparrows and Lazuli Buntings here. 

After obtaining permission to do so at the Club House, we also walked round the golf course pond where we very quickly saw the Tropical Kingbirds for which it is best known.  On the water were a Common Moorhen, a Pied-billed Grebe and about ten Black-bellied Whistling Ducks.  We also had looks at Lazuli Buntings and Cliff, Barn and Bank Swallows.    

After leaving Kino Springs we drove through Nogales and then headed north on I‑19.  Our final birding site was Amado sewage pond and here we found more Lazuli Buntings, a Loggerhead Shrike, two Red-tailed Hawks and a Grey Hawk.

We were now quite close to Green Valley and it wasn’t long before we were finding our rooms at the Best Western.  Later we were joined for dinner by Bob and Nancy Buttery, who live in Green Valley.  Bob would be our guide tomorrow.  

Day 9: Sunday, 8th August

Bob arrived at our hotel at 6.30am and we headed for Madera Canyon in the Santa Rita Mountains, another famous and much-visited birding area that has a wonderful variety of habitats and an impressive bird list. 

The road that leads into the canyon is lined with mesquite and thornscrub, home to the highly local Rufous-winged Sparrow.  We stopped several times looking and listening and eventually we had good ‘scope views of a bird singing from a tree top.  More common here were Black-throated Sparrows and there were several false alarms before we finally saw our target species.  Also along this road, we had our best look yet at a Greater Roadrunner.

We left the van at the Proctor Road Parking Area and walked from there to the Whitehouse Picnic Area.  The trail is paved and there are viewpoints over a riparian area.  It is a very pleasant walk, but wasn’t particularly productive on this occasion.  Amongst the birds seen were Bell’s Vireo, Bewick’s Wren and Rufous-crowned Sparrow.

Next we went a little further up the canyon to Santa Rita Lodge and sat by the feeders and watched for a while.  There are always Acorn Woodpeckers here and the walls of the cabins have numerous holes that they have drilled for storing acorns.  With their clown faces, they are always popular birds and very approachable.  There were a few Broad-billed and Black-chinned Hummingbirds at the feeders, plus the usual House Finches and Black-headed Grosbeaks, but otherwise it was fairly quiet.

Higher up the canyon, we spent some time in an area where a pair of Flame-coloured Tanagers had nested earlier in the year.  This was really more in hope than any real expectation of seeing these extremely rare birds and it was no surprise when they couldn’t be found.  We did see Painted Redstart and Western Wood-Pewee along this stretch of road.

By now there were lots of people coming into Madera Canyon and so, after eating our sandwiches, we decided to spend the afternoon at the Arivaca Cienaga unit of the Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge, more than an hour’s drive away.  On the way there, we slowed down past Amado sewage pond, but didn’t stop at all.  When we arrived it was very hot, but very soon we found some relief from the slight breeze that there always seems to be here.  We followed a loop trail round this attractive wetland finding Vermilion and Cordilleran Flycatchers, Yellow-breasted Chat, Summer Tanager and both Cooper’s Hawk and Grey Hawk.

On the way back to Green Valley, where we parted company with Bob, we drove through a short shower of rain.  Without that lapse, this would have been our first completely dry day! 

We headed north from Green Valley on I-19 as far as the San Xavier del Bac Mission, said to have been completed (apart from the still-missing east bell tower) in 1797.  This attractive church, which primarily serves the Tohono O’odham nation, is currently undergoing a programme of restoration and it is some time since it could be seen without scaffolding attached.  However, our visit here was not to admire the architecture, but to look for Burrowing Owls in the nearby, brightly ornamented cemetery.  In deference to the wishes of the Native American people, we did this without getting out of the van, but still had reasonable views of two owls, some distance away amongst the graves.                

That completed the day’s birding and we drove from here to the Radisson in Tucson for a two-night stay.

Day 10: Monday, 9th August

We had breakfast at 6.00am and set off for nearby Mt. Lemmon.  The Catalina Highway from Tucson to the top of Mt. Lemmon climbs 7,000 feet and is quite spectacular.  The scenery is magnificent and various stopping places give tremendous views, but it is the diversity of habitats that make it such an attractive area for birders.  The road starts in saguaro/palo verde desert scrub and passes through oaks, cypress trees, Ponderosa and Chihuahuan Pines, Douglas and White Fir and in no more than 30 road miles one can leave behind the heat of the desert and be in snow at Ski Valley.

Our first stop was at Babat Duag Vista to enjoy the views of the Tucson Basin and Santa Cruz Valley.  Here we saw Cactus Wren, Gila Woodpecker and Gilded Flicker; each of them perched on top of saguaros.  Both of the woodpeckers excavate holes in these giant cacti, which are later used by flycatchers, owls and others.

Next stop was Thimble Peak Vista, where a Rock Wren performed well, appearing from nowhere right on cue.  And then, so as to avoid delays caused by road closures and roadworks, we drove on up to Rose Canyon, where we enjoyed some excellent birding, in particular finding a nice assortment of warbler species.  The stars amongst these were undoubtedly Red-faced and Olive Warblers, but Hermit, Wilson’s, Nashville and Yellow-rumped made a fine supporting cast.  There seemed to be Pygmy Nuthatches everywhere and we had excellent views of Hermit Thrushes and Brown Creeper among many others.

Eventually, we drove to Ski Valley (8,320 ft.) and parked up for 20 minutes or so, but there was little bird activity, with only the metallic wing-trilling of Broad-tailed Hummingbirds at the feeders. 

On the way down we diverted to the tiny settlement of Summerhaven, which had been all but destroyed by last year’s fires.  We found it a hive of activity, with quite a number of new buildings already completed and others under construction.

As we continued our descent, the hour or so we spent along Bear Wallow Road proved something of a disappointment.  Mountain Chickadees and White-breasted Nuthatches were heard, but we saw very little.  At the same time, thunder clouds were gathering and once again it began to rain.  At this point we decided to join the downhill convoy through the road construction area that was scheduled for 4.05pm.  This worked out fine and we continued right down to Molino Basin Campground.

Molino Basin, too, had been affected by the fire, but a year later it didn’t look so bad and we spent the best part of an hour looking round.  By now the light was awful and there was a drop of rain as well.  Eventually after seeing Phainopepla and Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, but not much else, we called it a day and returned to Tucson.  As we entered town, a major electrical storm could be seen in the distance.

Day 11: Tuesday, 10th August

After our customary early breakfast, we drove across Tucson and joined I-19 heading north.  Our first stop was at Casa Grande Waste Water Treatment Plant, where unfortunately we found major construction work in progress and it was understandable, if somewhat disappointing, that we weren’t allowed access.  Viewing the main pond over the perimeter fence from the roadside was our only option, but it did present difficulties for some of us and wasn’t entirely satisfactory.  In the end almost everyone saw Redheads, Ruddy Ducks, Northern Pintail, Mallard, Eared and Pied-billed Grebes, Black-necked Stilts, Spotted and Least Sandpipers, Black Phoebe, Greater Roadrunner and remarkably a Surf Scoter.  The Surf Scoter was found on 11th July and didn’t look in the best of health, but it was a ‘lifer’ for some of the group.

We had a lot of miles to cover today and so, after buying lunch at the Subway in Casa Grande there were no more stops until we reached Sunset Vista Rest Area on the I-17.  We stayed here just long enough to eat our sandwiches and then it was only a relatively short distance to Sedona, once voted by USA Weekend Magazine as the most beautiful city in the USA.  It is certainly a major tourism centre and when we stopped on the way in to admire the spectacular red rock scenery, we found ourselves amongst crowds of visitors.  With cameras pointing in every direction, the whole place should be sponsored by Kodak!

We drove straight through the town and out the other side along Hwy 89A, which follows Oak Creek Canyon.  We stopped several times looking in particular for American Dippers, but we were out of luck.  In fact, we didn’t find many birds at all until we reached West Fork, an extremely rich habitat with riparian vegetation, abandoned orchards, grassy meadows and cliffs.  Here we found House Wren, Orange-crowned Warbler, Western and Summer Tanagers, Northern Flicker, Acorn Woodpeckers and some very obliging Spotted Towhees.

Eventually, we had to go and find our hotel, back in Sedona.  Later, we had dinner at Relics.

Day 12: Wednesday, 11th August

After leaving the Days Inn just after 7.00am, our first stop was a return visit to the West Fork trail.  It had been quite productive yesterday afternoon, but this morning the benefits of being out early were clear to see – there were a lot more birds.  American Robins were particularly numerous around the edge of the parking area and in the orchard, and during our walk species seen included Plumbeous Vireo, Lark Sparrow, Indigo Bunting, Lesser Goldfinch, Western Tanager, House Wren, Western Wood-Pewee and Acorn Woodpeckers.

A little over a mile further along Hwy 89A, we turned into Cave Springs Campground, parked the van and set off on foot.  The campground was full of RVs and trailers, which meant that we didn’t feel able to wander too widely and therefore didn’t stay very long.  A very obliging Canyon Wren and a Virginia’s Warbler were the only birds of note.

From here the road climbs in dramatic fashion to Oak Creek Vista from where we were able to look back down on this switchback route and also enjoy magnificent views of the canyon.  Several White-throated Swifts were seen here, but little else by way of birds.

Now it was time to leave Oak Creek Canyon and head for Grand Canyon National Park.  We drove first to Flagstaff, travelling a short distance through the town on the old Route 66.  We stopped to buy lunch at a Subway and later stopped to eat these at Kendrick Park Watchable Wildlife Trail along Hwy 180.  Although this was a reasonably pleasant spot, there was precious little wildlife to watch.

The rest of the journey was uneventful, with just a few Common Ravens and Western Bluebirds seen.  We arrived in Tusayan shortly after 2.00pm and straightaway made arrangements for five of the group to take a helicopter flight over the Grand Canyon.  Not much more than an hour later they were taking off from Grand Canyon Airport for their first sight of one of the world’s outstanding natural wonders. 

By 5.00pm we had completed our journey to Yavapai Lodge, settled into our new accommodation and were on our way to view the South Rim from ground level.  We drove the short distance to Bright Angel and even before we had found a parking place, a huge California Condor appeared overhead.  In no time we were out of the van and watching Turkey Vultures, Common Ravens and Condors soaring against the magnificent backdrop of the Grand Canyon – a truly spectacular sight. Photo: California Condor - Peter Dedicoat

Later we took a ride on the shuttle bus along the West Rim to Hopi Point to enjoy the sunset.  Here we watched the changing colours of the rocks and the lengthening shadows as the sun slowly disappeared from view.  A Peregrine Falcon was the only bird of note, but it was a memorable experience.

Day 13: Thursday, 12th August

We made an early start this morning for the short trip out to Mather Point to watch the sunrise.  There were already quite a number of people there when we arrived at about 5.30am and, during the next half an hour, countless photographs were taken as the red ball crept above the horizon once more.  Again it was an impressive sight.  From here we drove a few miles out along the East Rim.  Here we had another new view of the canyon, but precious few birds and maybe they needed the sun to be higher and the air a little warmer before becoming very active.  A Black-throated Grey Warbler was the highlight.  We returned to the Canyon Café for breakfast and then afterwards set out on foot along the Rim Trail.  It was a pleasant morning and we ended up walking all the way to Bright Angel and back.  Birds seen included: California Condor, Rock Wren, Western Bluebird, Juniper Titmouse, Hermit, Black-throated Grey and Yellow-rumped Warblers, Blue-grey Gnatcatcher and Western Scrub-Jay.  We also saw numerous Rock Squirrels, one or two Mule Deer and several Bighorn Sheep.  And most of the time there was also the awesome sight of the one-mile deep, eighteen-mile wide Grand Canyon.  After lunch, we drove out of the National Park to Tusayan and then left the paved road, taking FR-302 into Kaibab National Forest.  We stopped repeatedly along here when birds were seen or heard, sometimes getting out in pursuit or for better views.  It was 16 miles before we found a tarmac surface again, but it took us all afternoon.  Bird highlights were: Red Crossbill, Grace’s Warbler, Sage Sparrow, Orange-crowned Warbler, Rock Wren, Red-tailed Hawk, Violet-green Swallow, American Kestrel, Hairy Woodpecker and countless Western Bluebirds.  There were also Elk and Mule Deer.

We returned to Yavapai Lodge in good time for a shower before dinner.  By now the sky was grey and we realised how fortunate we had been to choose last night for the trip to Hopi Point.

Day 14: Friday, 13th August

We left Yavapai Lodge after breakfast and took the road south out of the National Park, through Tusayan.  We continued on Hwy 64 all the way to I-40 and later joined I-19.  Proper scrutiny of the numerous corvids seen revealed the presence of several American Crows among the Common Ravens and at a restroom stop a couple of Dark-eyed Juncos proved to be the last additions to our trip list.

We stopped to eat our lunch at Montezuma Well, just east of the interstate.  When we arrived there the picnic area was full with a ‘potty party’ in progress.  This proved to be an opening ceremony for a new restroom and later we got to use the newest, cleanest loos in the whole of Arizona!

First, though, while the picnic area was so crowded (maybe as many as 20 people), we went to look at Montezuma Well and the cave dwellings of the Sinaguan people dating back to the 14th Century.  Montezuma Well is a limestone sink formed long ago by the collapse of an immense underground cavern.  Over one and a half million gallons of water a day flow continuously, providing a lush, verdant oasis in the midst of surrounding desert grassland. 

When the party was over, we took over the picnic area.  It was a very pleasant place indeed to have our lunch, situated adjacent to a riparian habitat that attracted a remarkable variety of birds.  Notable amongst these were: Lazuli Bunting, Bewick’s Wren, Vermilion Flycatcher, Hairy Woodpecker, Phainopepla, Broad-tailed Hummingbird, Black and Say’s Phoebes, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Blue Grosbeak and American Robin.

Now it was time to head for Phoenix, where we were to spend the last night of the tour back at the Best Western Airport Inn.  Traffic along I-10 was quite heavy when we reached the city, but the journey was straightforward and without incident.

Day 15: Saturday, 14th August

Just a short trip to the airport this morning for our late morning flights home, some of us via Newark and the rest via Houston.  In both cases arrival at Heathrow was on Sunday morning.