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Lesvos Tour Report, 29th April to 6th May 2004
Day 1: Thursday, 29th April
The group met up at Gatwick airport and after an uneventful three hour flight
we arrived in Lesvos to bright sunshine. Having collected our luggage
and located our transport we were soon on our way to the Hotel Pasaphae at
Skala Kalloni. As we drove across the island we were seeing birds and
as we passed the Kalloni Salt Pans, we managed our first glimpses of the
graceful Greater Flamingos. Moving on to the heart of Kalloni
Town, we located a White Stork’s nest, which also housed a colony
of Spanish Sparrows.
We arrived at the hotel at around 4.00pm and after checking in and dropping
our bags in our rooms, all headed off for a pre-dinner walk around the nearby
Kalloni Pool. Although it was noted that the vegetation around the
pool was a little overgrown, which impaired our views, we still managed to
find many of the expected species.
Amongst the highlights were Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, 20 Black-winged Stilts, two Little Bitterns, Crested Larks and a lovely group of nine Glossy Ibises. We had a real treat in the shape of a superb female Red-footed Falcon, which flew over, and the sight of 20+ Whiskered Terns followed this as they came in from the sea. Photo: Little Bittern - Ray Tipper |
Day 2: Friday, 30th April
Our day started with a pre-breakfast walk around the Kalloni Pool. Black
Stork was a good find and we also enjoyed good views of Little Bitterns and White
Storks.
After breakfast we headed off in search of a Eurasian Scops Owl. We
visited two likely sites and much to the delight of the group, were lucky
at both, rewarded at one location by very close views. The rest of
the day was taken with a roughly circular drive which although covering no
more than ten miles seemed, due to its winding path and frequent birding
stops, much longer. Our first stop was at the Kalloni Salt Pans where
we walked the nearby sheepfields.
Then we slowly drove the maze of rough tracks that criss-cross the western
end of the salt pans to the East River, then following the river southwards
back to Skala Kalloni. By the end of the day we had seen many of the
more common birds of the island including numerous European Bee-eaters and
our list had greatly increased. Notable sightings for the day included
- three Purple Herons, two Black Storks, a flock of 27 Gull-billed
Terns, 225+ White-winged & more Whiskered Terns, a
2nd year Slender-billed Gull, 15+ Red-throated Pipits, seven Ruddy Shelducks,
20 plus Collared Pratincoles, three Marsh Sandpipers, two Lesser
Grey Shrikes, two Tawny Pipits and 15 Greater Short-toed Larks. We
also spent some time sorting out the 30+ Yellow Wagtails that we saw
and concluded that we had seen four races – Sykes’s, Black-headed,
Grey-headed and Blue-headed in differing numbers.
Day 3: Saturday, 1st May Our day started shortly after dawn with a trip to the inland lake, where we arrived as it began to get light. Amongst the first birds seen as the light increased were Little Bittern and nine Black-crowned Night Herons followed by our first Great Reed Warbler and Black-headed Bunting. Photo: Black-headed Bunting - S.C.Brown |
A female Little Crake showed well, as did a Common Nightingale and
we all enjoyed the sight of three Masked Shrikes. By this time
the day had begun to warm up and we returned to the hotel for a very welcome
breakfast. As we were eating, the news broke that a Spur-winged
Lapwing had been found down on the West River and we hurriedly finished
our meal and headed off to its reported location. We scanned the area
for about fifteen minutes and then there it was. Although a little
distant, the bird gave prolonged views and almost all our group recorded
either a 'lifer' or a European 'tick'. The day was proving to
be a good one as we were treated to views of Little Owl, just a few
meters away on the roadside followed by our first Lesser Kestrel.
We moved on to Parakila and Devil’s Bridge where we were to see almost
all of our expected species recording Long-legged Buzzard, Sombre Tit,
Western Rock Nuthatch, both Cretzschmar’s and Cirl Buntings,
Icterine and Orphean Warblers and Red-rumped Swallows. The
heat was increasing and we decided to break for lunch and a cool drink in
a nearby taverna. Feeling much cooler, we headed for our afternoon
destination, Derbyshire, on the way seeing a cracking European Roller,
which was hawking for insects from the wires.
As we walked in and about the woods we found Red-backed, Woodchat and Lesser
Grey Shrikes and noted many Whinchats, concluding that they were
part of the obvious passage, which had been ongoing for two days. As
a small party of Alpine Swifts whirled overhead, we located another
of our hoped for species - Krüper’s Nuthatch. As
we drove back to the hotel for a well-earned shower and cool drink we counted
four Great White Egrets to add to the ten seen on the previous day.
Day 4: Sunday, 2nd May
An early breakfast today and we were soon on the road to Sigri, which is
at the western end of the island. It was a fine and sunny day and en
route to Sigri we stopped at several places including the Grand Canyon near
Vatousa and the monastery at Ipsilou. These were both lovely places
and afforded us breathtaking views. At one point we were at eye level
with a female Eurasian Honey Buzzard and then a few minutes later
an Eleonora’s Falcon took her place. At the canyon we
counted ten Eurasian Crag Martins, a male Cinereous Bunting and
had a brief view of Rock Sparrow. Western Rock Nuthatch, Blue Rock
Thrush, many Black-eared Wheatears were notable and all the time
we were aware of European Bee-eaters and hirundines passing through
the canyon. As we continued on our way we saw four Long-legged Buzzards,
Eurasian Golden Orioles and managed to count more than 50 Red-backed
Shrikes.
The birding at Sigri proved equally good and we were soon seeing more Eurasian
Golden Orioles, all four species of shrike, Spotted and Pied
Flycatchers and Eastern Olivaceous Warblers. As we walked
on the beach four Curlew Sandpipers were seen and when we moved an
old boot that was lying on the sand we disturbed two scorpions that had been
sheltering beneath.
Day 5: Monday, 3rd May
A 6.20 am start today began with a trip along the track by the grain silos. The
light was great and gave us just the right conditions to view Rufous-tailed
Scrub Robin and a male Rüppell’s Warbler. Here
at last we managed a sighting of a Eurasian Hoopoe, a bird that had
eluded us until now.
After breakfast we set off for the Napi Valley in the hope of seeing raptors
and warblers. Happily we were not to be disappointed. A group
of some 40+ Red-footed Falcons with one Eleonora’s was
hunting insects along the ridgeline and our attention was drawn to a huge
eagle that had just flown into view. It was a Lesser Spotted Eagle,
a bird we had hoped for but were doubtful off getting and quite good views
too. Moving on we found the first of two Northern Goshawks seen
today. Passerines were not to be outdone and we were treated to exceptional
views of Olive-tree, Subalpine and Orphean Warblers plus seven Sombre
Tits including three fledglings.
As we left the Napi Valley we worked our way west along the north coast to
Petra where we again saw Rüppell’s Warbler, another Subalpine
Warbler, this time singing, and a pair of Blue Rock Thrushes. By
this time the heat was beginning to be a problem and so as evening approached
we headed back to the hotel for a cooling drink.
Day 6: Tuesday, 4th May
An early morning visit to the East River produced a good tally of waders
including 30 Ruff, six Wood Sandpipers, 15 Little Stints and
a Temminck’s Stint plus nine Squacco and a Purple Heron.
After breakfast we again visited the Salt Pans where some movement was apparent. A
flock of 29+ White-winged Black and one Black Tern, four Rufous-tailed
Scrub Robins and a huge flock of 400+ Greater Flamingos were all
present along with Corn and Black-headed Buntings, two Common
Greenshank and 20+ Kentish Plovers. A European Land Tortoise was
also noted. At around mid-day we headed for a local taverna for lunch
and a welcome cooling drink. Then much refreshed we headed back north
to Stipsi and Molivos with the hope of seeing more raptors. En route
we took in one of the Eurasian Scops Owls again and
three Short-toed Eagles and a Red-footed Falcon were recorded. At
Molivos we checked out a site for Middle Spotted Woodpecker and were
rewarded within five minutes with excellent views of a bird as it came to
a nest hole. We watched for a short time as the bird flew off and then
returned several times, but then we left so as not to disturb it. At
the harbour we increased our seabird tally seeing Cory's and 20+ Yelkouan
Shearwaters plus a nice adult Audouin's Gull
Day 7: Wednesday, 5th May
The weather had changed significantly overnight, the warm sunny weather
making way for a storm front which closed in from the south west bringing
some low cloud, rain and windy conditions. Many of the migrants seen
previously had obviously sensed the incoming storm and had moved away ahead
of the weather system. We made our way to Sigri to hunt for migrants
and to begin with we saw very little of note with only a couple of Spotted
Flycatchers to brighten the day and by late morning we were feeling a
little despondent. We took a break at the local taverna and decided
where to try next. After our coffee break we tried along a rough road
which ran south along the coast to Eressos and our fortunes changed. As
we bumped our way southward we began to see Yellow Wagtails which
had obviously come in off the sea. We were all searching the fields
as we drove along when a shout went up - CHUKAR! We immediately
stopped and sure enough there it sat. As we checked the area another
bird was found and it soon became obvious that this was a breeding pair with
a nest nearby, so we happily moved off so as not to disturb them. A
little further on we entered a wide bay and decided to stop for lunch. As
we ate lunch we had the find of the day when a European Nightjar was
inadvertently flushed from a stone wall. Tracking the bird proved easy
and we all got excellent views, as the bird proved very confiding. Luckily
whilst trying to relocate the Nightjar we also flushed a Common
Quail.
It seems Ray became so excited by this that he pushed Steve into a nearby
bush, which Steve claimed was the thorniest on the island and from which,
he allegedly, still bears the scars.
Shearwaters were coming in closer here due to the strong wind and we had a number of Cory's mixed in with the seemingly continuous stream of Yelkouans. Further along the ridge we watched three Eleonora’s Falcons hunting for migrant passerines. Over a small pool close by a number of hirundines were feeding including Eurasian Crag, House and Sand Martins, Barn and Red-rumped Swallows. This gave us an excellent opportunity to study and compare these species. From here we re-traced our steps and visited Ipsilou where the star bird proved to be a female Collared Flycatcher, which we watched as she was fed in the lee of the hill well out of the raging gale.
Day 8: Thursday, 6th May
Our last day in Lesvos started early with a visit to Potamia Valley and
this proved a good choice of venue as we saw only our second European
Roller of the week perched on a telegraph pole. The bird gave good,
if somewhat, brief views before it vanished and could not be found again,
although we spent time trying to relocate it. As time was short we
ventured further up the valley seeing Eurasian Golden Oriole, Western Rock
Nuthatch and a lovely male Blue Rock Thrush before heading back
to the hotel for breakfast, where we heard that a Thrush Nightingale had
been seen at the Inland Lake. Unfortunately we had no time to go looking
for it as we were due at the airport for our homeward flight.
Full bird list