Everyone met on time at Heathrow
airport and after checking in and a short coffee break, it wasn't
long before we were on our way to Hungary. After a three-hour smooth
flight we were soon landing at Budapest airport. We were the last
ones there to collect our baggage, but it didn't take long to get
through Customs, where we were then met by our local guide Janos, we
then boarded our coach and set off towards Southern Hungary. The
weather was unseasonably hot and it would take a little bit of
adjusting to. We stopped en-route at a place called Apaj, part of
the Kiskunsag National Park. When we got out of the coach we found
it was decidedly warm, this was eased slightly by a nice cool
breeze. From the side of the parked coach we saw several Blue-headed
Wagtails, and then in the distance a Great Bustard, although it soon
disappeared behind some bushes amongst the heat haze. We then walked
along a rough track, Marsh Harriers were common, and there were
plenty more Blue-headed Wagtails and several Whinchats. A little
further along and looking over some open grassland we spotted two
Collared Pratincoles. These birds flew around for us and also
perched on the bare ground. There were also Lapwing, Curlew and a
female Red-footed Falcon there. In the reeds beside us and along the
edge of a drainage ditch, there was at least one Great Reed Warbler
which was first heard and then eventually showed well, just after
this I spotted a distant but nevertheless, magnificent White-tailed
Eagle. It was soon joined by a second bird and everyone managed to
get fairly reasonable views of them. We then walked back towards the
coach where a Grasshopper Warbler was seen singing right out in the
open. Continuing on we then drove just a kilometre or two down the
road where we veered off and drove down a track beside a canal. Once
the coach stopped we were soon out and our telescopes trained at a
couple of magnificent Great Bustards stood proud in the middle of a
grassy field. A male Montagu's Harrier showed well to us before we
moved on a little further to another area where we again got out and
then watched up to eighteen Great Bustards strolling around and even
displaying. On a small bush a Lesser Grey Shrike was spotted while a
Roller flew over, and a male Red-footed Falcon was seen to fly
around. Janos then found us a tawny Pipit and in between views of
displaying and then flying Great Bustards we also saw Corn Buntings
and Tree Sparrows. Happy with our views of these excellent birds we
made our way back past an illusive Golden Oriole and a very brief
Penduline Tit. It was getting late so we headed off towards our
hotel. The inevitable stops were made en-route, and we saw lots of
Marsh Harriers, several Rollers, sat on telegraph wires, Lesser Grey
Shrikes, and a group of White-winged Terns. There were plenty of
other more common species spotted from the coach windows before we
eventually arrived in the evening just in time to check in and have
our meal.
DAY 2 Sunday 14th May
After breakfast we headed
towards Szeged. On route we stopped briefly to look at both
White Storks on their nests and also several European Bee-eaters
on telegraph wires. We then drove to the local fishponds and
took a walk along a disused railway that dissected the many
pools. Red-backed Shrikes and Tree Sparrows were soon spotted
and then our first Penduline Tit which was building a nest.
Out on a semi-dry pond were Avocet, Grey and Night Herons,
Little Egrets and two Little Ringed Plovers. Common Cuckoos
seemed to be everywhere and regularly flew past, while Nightingales
were in good song. On the next reed-fringed pool we watched
a very confiding Little Bittern as well as five
Ferruginous Duck, a Common Teal and a Black Tern. Great Reed-Warblers
were singing everywhere while Night, and Purple Herons constantly
flew over. A little further along the track most of us eventually
saw a Nightingale singing from a Willow tree. The next pool
had Great-crested Grebe and a few Ferruginous Ducks, while
the adjoining pool was full of waders. There were lots of
Dunlin and Ruff plus a good number of Curlew Sandpiper, Little
Stints, Spotted Redshanks, Ringed Plovers and Grey Plover.
As we slowly walked back, another Penduline Tit showed itself
well, and shortly after most of us managed to see a Syrian
Woodpecker on a tree trunk. We then returned to the coach
having seen more Red-backed Shrikes, Marsh Harriers and a
Great Spotted Woodpecker. It was now lunch time so we drove
a couple of minutes up the road to a restaurant where we had
a huge bowl of fish soup, pasta and an ice cream. The fish
we ate was actually freshwater Carp. After our meal we moved
on to a small pool that held breeding Avocets, with chicks
and several Black-winged Stilts. There was also Garganey and
some Whiskered Terns. On again to the next pool where we found
a Teal, White Wagtails, Little Ringed Plover and lots of breeding
Black-winged Stilts. There was also two Lesser Grey Shrikes
behind the pool. From here, we then moved on again. A huge
area of shallow wetland proved to be home to hundreds of Whiskered
Terns as well as nesting White-winged Black Terns and a few
Black. There were too many Night Herons to count and some
fed right out in the open. Spoonbills and Great White Egrets
flew right over while Garganey and one Shoveler were seen.
At another superb area, we walked to atower hide
that overlooked this huge marshland. From the hide we thrilled
at the sight of hundreds of terns, waders and herons. There
were nesting colonies of Common and Whiskered Terns, as well
as lots of Black-necked Grebes. Amongst the ducks we found
Ferruginous, Gadwall, Shoveler and Teal, while amongst the
waders were lost of Spotted Redshanks, Black-tailed Godwits,
and Ruff including many males in full breeding plumage of
either White, Black or Chestnut. We eventually had to leave
this wonderful spot to return back to our hotel for the evening
meal.
Little Bittern
Tower Hide
DAY 3
Monday 15th May
After breakfast we headed north stopping at
some pools and rice paddies. Very few waders were present and Wood
Sandpipers, Common Sandpipers, Dunlin, Ruff and Avocet were amongst
the few that we saw, although two Cranes seen from the coach were a
bonus. A Syrian Woodpecker was seen briefly by a few and then we
drove on to the Great Bustard Reserve. It was already very hot and
any bustards out there were already sat down in the long grass and
difficult to find. We did see part of the reintroduction scheme and
also two orphaned Great Bustards who came up to us and displayed
from within their pen. We had our lunch and then continued on until
we reached the Kaba sugar factory, we stopped beside the road to
view four Red-footed Falcons hunting over a field. Leaving here we
drove on a little further and had telescope views of several
Red-footed Falcons as they displayed and perched beside their nests
in a small wood. This allowed us excellent views of both male and
female, there was also a pair of Golden Orioles with the male
showing exceptionally well. Beside the Kaba Sugar Factory we had a
look at several small pools. As we approached the first, a Little
Gull flew off, after which we found Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper,
Little Ringed Plover several Black-tailed Godwits in summer plumage,
and both Common and Black Terns. A superb male Bluethroat was then
seen singing from the top of some reeds allowing all of us fantastic
views. We then continued on and drove to the Hortobagy. We took a
track out to a disused aircraft radar base. From here Andrew spotted
a Great Bittern beside the road and we all saw it as it then took
off and flew away. From the top of the old radar station we had
superb views over a huge part of the reserve. Whiskered Terns were
everywhere, and so were Great White Egrets, Purple Herons and Marsh
Harriers. In the pools and reeds we found Great Reed and Sedge
Warblers and several Savi's were heard singing. In the distance
Greylag Geese and Black—necked Grebes could be seen, while closer to
us Andrew then again found another Great Bittern walking around in
the reeds. We all watched this and another bird beside it very well.
Just as we were about to leave, two Cranes then flew over and
circled above us before flying off. Continuing on we had good views
of a pair of Lesser Grey Shrikes sat on a telegraph wire and then a
little further along we stopped beside some large electric pylons
and here we saw a magnificent Saker Falcon sat surveying it's
territory. Nearby on another pylon, on a nesting platform, we saw
the head of a fluffy white chick which showed, albeit occasionally.
We then drove to the hotel after which half of the group took a
short trip outside the town and in the peace and quiet of the early
evening we watched a Tawny Pipit and then two very confiding Little
Owls which sat on haystacks and a nearby telegraph pole. A male
Red-footed Falcon flew low overhead while we listened to the
constant song of singing Corn Buntings. We then returned to the
hotel to join the others for our evening meal.
DAY 4
Tuesday 16th May
Those of us on a pre-breakfast walk
visited a nearby wetland area. From a tower hide we spotted
Spoonbill, Greylag Geese, heard a Hoopoe singing and then
watched four Cranes fly in. As we left, a Little Owl was spotted
on top of the roof of a barn alongside several Northern Wheatears.
A quick look at another area produced very little although
Andrew did get brief views of one of the resident Long-legged
Buzzards. After breakfast we set of for the Hortobagy fishponds.
A short stop by some grassland produced a Stone Curlew and
another stop beside the road overlooking a pool produced two
Glossy Ibis, several Ruff and Purple, Night and Squacco Herons.
We then parked up near a pool and walked to a tower hide.
The walk along produced Bearded Tit, several Savi's Warblers,
and some showy Bluethroats, as well as a few Pygmy Cormorants
flying over. Once we had reached the tower hide that overlooked
a huge expanse of marsh, we saw Marsh harriers, Whiskered
Terns and an immature White-tailed Eagle. We eventually decided
to return to the van seeing more Bluethroats and Bearded Tits
again. Time for lunch we then drove to a nearby restaurant
that overlooking the Hortobagy river, and after a delicious
meal we continued on to some nearby pools where we found a
Little Gull and a few Caspian Gulls. We then tried another
pool where there were plenty of Greylag Geese, Ruff, Dunlin,
Little Stint, and Garganey. We also saw two very close Rollers,
a Tawny Pipit, two Lesser Grey Shrikes and a couple of Red-footed
Falcons. On a nearby open area of Steppe we met up with the
warden and then from a mound in the middle of the grassland
we could see ten Great Bustards strutting around. Two Montagu's
Harriers were found and one gave exceptionally close views
as it hunted low in front of us. We also noted a hundred or
more Common Cranes and a Black Stork. Along another track
we walked past several patches of wetland, here we found lots
of Squacco Herons and a Snipe was seen and heard drumming.
Bitterns could be heard booming and Sedge Warbler were seen
everywhere. After a long wait and a lot of patience we then
got superb close views of the bird we had been searching for
a singing maleAquatic Warbler. This bird was
greatly admired as it sat right on top of a reed in front
of us. Content with this we then headed back. We dropped half
the group off at the hotel before driving ten minutes down
the road to a small private wood, here we were soon enjoying
excellent views of a Long-eared Owl sticking it's head up
from it's nest. After this we then drove back to the hotel.
Aquatic Warbler
DAY
5 Wednesday 17th May
A short walk from the hotel to the local park
before breakfast produced a pair of nesting Syrian Woodpeckers and a
Lesser Whitethroat, as well as Serin and Spotted Flycatcher. After
breakfast we headed straight over to where the pair of breeding
Saker Falcons were sat, today on different pylons. After a while
both birds took off and went hunting together. We were able to
witness both birds in hot pursuit of a pigeon and incredibly lucky
for the pigeon it actually got away! We then drove off and tried an
area of reeds at the Hortobagy fishponds. Some of us made the walk
to the tower hide and from there we saw all the now familiar wetland
birds. On our return back to the coach a Penduline Tit could be
heard calling and it's nest was spotted hanging from a river-side
tree. We then continued on to a site for breeding Long-legged
Buzzard. On the approach road we stopped to look at a Hoopoe and
were then distracted by an adult Lesser Spotted Eagle being mobbed
by a Buzzard, and also a Saker mobbing a Marsh Harrier. A little
further along very brief views were had of two Long-legged Buzzards
in the heat haze. We then returned to our hotel, collected our
luggage and moved on north. A stop was made at Debrecen Wood where
we found Short-toed Treecreeper and our first Chiffchaff of the
tour. We spent an hour in the wood and were rewarded with views of a
singing Collared Flycatcher, several Middle-spotted Woodpeckers and
two huge Black Woodpeckers, as well as Great Spotted and a Wryneck.
At our lunch stop we were joined by a noisy and showy Lesser-spotted
Woodpecker calling above our heads. After lunch we headed north to
Tokaj in the Zemplin Hills. After our arrival at our hotel, we took
it easy before the evening meal after which we went out. We stopped
in a grassy valley and where immediately greeted by the calls of
rasping Corncrakes. Janos then played a tape to one bird as we
watched it then flew across a dirt track towards him and after a few
minutes it flew back again. We then walked on a bit further to a
small wood where it didn't take long before we watching a super
little Scops Owl perched in a tree above us. Leaving this area the
sound of many Corncrakes calling all around we then tried briefly
for Night Jars before heading back to the hotel.
DAY
6 Thursday 18th May
A few of the group
that were up early saw Kingfishers on the nearby river and
then straight after breakfast we all drove two miles away
to a nearby quarry where we watched an adult Eagle Owl
and it's three large chicks sat on it's nest. Also here we
watched in the small bushes several displaying Barred Warblers.
After leaving the quarry we then made our way north over into
the Zemplin Hills. A quick roadside stop had us watching three
very close Lesser-spotted Eagles that had just taken off.
We then continued on further until Andrew spotted a distant
eagle. We got out and had brief views and then moved closer
until eventually we were able to scope two magnificent Imperial
Eagles circling around the wooded hillside in
front of us. We enjoyed superb views of these birds as well
as a Honey Buzzard drifting over, three Common Buzzards and
a Black Stork. On bushes in front of us both red-backed Shrike
and Barred Warblers were giving their display flights. We
then left and drove to the other side of the Hills where we
found another Lesser-spotted Eagle and two more Black Storks
before making a stop at a small village where an Icterine
Warbler was watched singing from a nearby tree. Everyone having
seen this bird, we then proceed as far as we could be vehicle
up into deciduous woodland. We then had to walk the track
into the wood. After only fifteen minutes we caught our first
glimpse of a superb Ural Owl flying through
the trees to settle on a branch where we all saw it through
our telescopes. Most of us then walked deeper into the wood
where it didn't take long to find the owl sat looking at us
from its perch. Fantastic views were had of this bird, as
it stared straight back at us. Delighted with this we all
left and made our way back to the minibus. We then headed
off for our lunch. Later we decided to head to a different
forest. Here we soon found a Wryneck and then walking further
on we took a track into the wood and sat down. With our binoculars
and telescopes focused on a nest hole in a tree. After a half
hour wait a first visit was made by a female White-backed
Woodpecker. Shortly after the male made several visits allowing
all of us to see these birds through the telescope. As we
returned back we also saw a Tree Creeper and Nuthatch and
even added a Robin to our list. Very satisfied at seeing two
very difficult species we then got in our vehicles and headed
back. A quick stop was made just before we got to our hotel
to an area of rough grass and stinging nettles. Here we watched
several Marsh Warblers and two River Warblers singing from
the tops.
Eagle Owl
Wooded hillside
Ural Owl
DAY
7 Friday 19th May
Several of us got up very early so that
we could enjoy some birds in the excellent light before
any heat haze appeared. We first visited a scrubby area
where Marsh Warblers were already up and singing. We could
hear River Warblers, but they were out of sight so we decided
to try another spot. Here we heard several warblers and
a Quail, we saw Long-tailed Tits and Purple, Night Herons
and Great White Egrets flew over. A little further along
the road we stopped again and here we had superb views of
a River Warbler singing from a close bush
while a Bee-eater sat on a tree behind. We then continued
back and called in on the quarry where we looked at the
adult Eagle Owl and its chicks. Barred Warblers were singing
and we had wonderful views of these beautiful little birds.
After our breakfast we all headed into the Zemplin Hills
where we made our way to a working quarry. We soon found
a fine male Rock Thrush sat on top of a pile of rocks and
having seen that it was soon replaced by the female. As
we waited for the male to return we watched Wheatear and
Black Redstart while in the distance two Short-toed Snake
Eagles were seen flying around and hovering. As we were
leaving only a few of us managed to get views of eight Rose-coloured
Starlings as they flew quickly over and down into the valley.
We searched all the cherry trees we could find but never
saw these rare birds again. It was now lunchtime and as
we sat outside the restaurant a Syrian Woodpecker showed
briefly, while Marsh Harriers and lots of Great White Egrets
were seen to fly past. After lunch we headed back into the
wooded hills. We searched several territories of Grey-headed
Woodpecker but all the birds were silent and not seen. We
then walked into another wood where after a short stroll
we sat ourselves down and waited while looking towards a
large hole in a tree. After our first sighting of a male
Black Woodpecker arriving with food for it's chicks, it
then took a whole hour before he returned with food again.
Jeff and Anne sat down near some puddles and managed to
get good views of several Hawfinches before it was time
for all of us to leave. As we boarded the minibus a Goshawk
was spotted circling over some distant hills. We then drove
on to the site where we had seen Corncrake and the Scops
Owl before. Here we enjoyed excellent views of a Wryneck
singing from an old dead tree, while in the skies above
us an Imperial Eagle was watched well as it was constantly
mobbed by a Common Buzzard. From here we then headed back
to our hotel. After our evening meal we all headed off for
some local wine tasting which was very good too!
River Warbler
DAY
8 Saturday 20th May
After an early breakfast we then boarded
the coach and headed back for Budapest where we stopped
to look at Hero's Square and a castle before moving on to
the airport. After a short flight we arrived back at Heathrow
where a super tour concluded.
Thank you to everyone who
participated in this tour. Steve Bird
