South Africa – the Kalahari to the Cape, September
2006
Bokmakarie |
Bennet's woodpecker
|
Shy Albatross
|
“Summer came early to the Cape this year and we enjoyed superb
sunny weather for all of our time in Cape Town, apart from the last
day. None more so than on the pelagic when the journey out and
back was bathed in sunshine and the sea was the calmest I have ever
seen it. These were perfect conditions to enjoy the Shy and
Black-browed Albatrosses, White-chinned and Pintado Petrels, Sooty
and Great Shearwaters, hordes of Cape Gannets, and Northern Giant
Petrel attending a trawler.
The Cape Rockjumpers performed amazingly well,
competing for our attention with a group of Ground Woodpeckers and
a Cape Rock Thrush while the African Penguins on nearby Stony Point
were as endearing as ever. The
good winter rains had Kirstenbosch Botanical gardens looking fantastic
with swathes of Pin-cushion Proteas attended by Cape Sugarbirds, Orange-breasted
and Lesser-double Collared Sunbirds. A Klaas’s Cuckoo out
in an appearance and the resident Spotted Eagle Owl was in its usual
tree. Elsewhere we found a large flock of Sabine Gulls off Moullie
Point, watched Southern Right Whales splashing around close inshore,
saw the most southerly Ostriches in the world at Cape Point, and found
Cape Siskins close to our accommodation and Spotted Thick-knees at
Kommetjie.
We began our journey among the red dunes of the
Kalahari Desert where we found Namaqua and Burchell’s Sandgrouse coming into to drink,
several Kori Bustards, dozing Verreaux’s Eagle Owls, Kalahari
Scrub-Robin, Crimson-breasted Shrike, a rare Bennett’s Woodpecker,
Gabar Goshawks, and a variety of mammals from stately Gemsbok to alert
Meerkats. Augrabies had African Pied Wagtails and lots of water
and Pofadder’s Red Larks performed on cue, along with other highlights
around the back roads of Bushmanland including Karoo Long-billed and
Fawn-coloured Larks, Black-headed Canary, Rufous-eared Warbler, Pale-winged
Starlings, and Ashy Tit to name a few.
In Goegap Reserve we watched Ludwig’s Bustards, Mountain and
Capped Wheatears, iridescent Malachite Sunbirds, tiny Karoo Eremomelas,
and Damara Canaries before heading off into the hills around Kamieskroon
where we found some superb sheets of wild flowers. Lambert’s
Bay Cape Gannet colony had been suffering from attacks by some of the
local Cape Fur Seals and had been deserted a few months before we arrived. Luckily
the situation is now under control and although not back to full strength,
there were still plenty of birds present, all busy displaying. This
was also a great place to get good views of Swift Terns as some large
flocks were gathered on the rocks around the harbour, along with plenty
of Hartlaub’s and a few Grey-headed Gulls. The open air
seafood meal on the beach later that night was a perfect end to the
day and much appreciated, not least for those delicious huge crayfish.
Heading south we found the often-difficult Protea
Canary in a narrow ‘kloof’ and
scanned the Berg river estuary for a variety of wildfowl and waders. We
called in at Saldana to get close views of our first African Black
Oystercatchers and Bank Cormorants before arriving at our ever so welcoming
guesthouse at Langabaan. We had a pleasant morning in the West
Coast Nature reserve with an obliging Southern Black Korhaan, Cape
Grassbird and great views of both African Marsh and Black Harriers
and we managed to find a Chestnut-banded Plover at the very last-chance
site. We found time to call in at one of the many wild flower
reserves where we were treated to a fine display of flowers and the
tiny aerial dots of a displaying Cloud Cisticolas before moving inland
and up into the Cederburg Mountains, ending the day at a wonderfully
remote guesthouse. From here we explored the karoo, and found
Cinnamon-breasted Warblers showing well in their famous rocky gorge
while Horus Swifts zoomed overhead, Fairy Flycatchers on the way into
Ceres and Cape Clapper Larks right by our guest house.
The rains this winter had been some of the best
in the karoo for ten years and parts of this normally sombre grey
and brown landscape were covered in vibrant yellow flowers. Still, birds were typically
scarce but we did manage to find Karoo Korhaan, some smart Black-eared
Sparrowlarks, Red-capped and Spike-heeled Larks, noisy Namaqua Warblers
and some amazing gatherings of White-necked Ravens, although it may
have been the lunch at the Tanqua Karoo Guest house that really stood
out. We popped into Ceres to find Black Duck and then it was
on to Swellendam. Our visit to this beautiful town was memorable,
not only for the superb accommodation and wonderful food, but also
for the visit to the Bontebok Reserve where we found several Stanley’s
Bustards, some in full display, Pearl-breasted Swallows, lots of Fiscal
Flycatchers, an incredibly obliging Olive Bush-shrike, and of course
lots of smart Bonteboks.
Driving south we found Brown-hooded Kingfisher,
Algulhas Long-billed Larks, Blue Cranes in the wheat fields and Cape
Vultures circling around Potberg and were treated to a wonderful
first view of Cape Town as we crested Sir Lowry’s Pass. Our four days at the delightful
Afton Grove passed all too quickly and will be remembered for the delicious
meals and genial hosts as much as the birds.” Steve Rooke
Bird
List
