TRANSYLVANIA September 2006
“Once more our Transylvania and Hortobágy tour proved the
perfect pairing. The two habitats – vast open atmospheric puszta
and fishponds on the one hand, dramatic mountain scenery, gorges, and
high-elevation conifer forests on the other - offer a satisfying contrast;
the hotels are comfortable; and the food and wines remarkably good.
Our first 24 hours in Hungary was, by any standards,
a classic European birding experience both for quantity and for quality
- 112 species including several on the IUCN Red List and eight of world
conservation importance: Lesser White-fronted Goose, Greater Spotted and
Eastern Imperial Eagles, and Great Bustard (all globally threatened species),
plus Pygmy Cormorant, Ferruginous Duck, White-tailed Eagle, and an unexpected
Buff-breasted Sandpiper, only the second record for the Hortobágy (all ‘near threatened’). Staggering. Even
the supporting cast was impressive: Squacco and Purple Herons, Black and
White Storks, Spoonbill, Bean Goose, Long-legged Buzzard, Red-footed Falcon,
Crane, Red-throated Pipit, Bearded and Penduline Tits, and Bluethroat. It
was indeed a tremendous kick-start to a holiday in which every day brought
a new and memorable experience.
Even our travelling day, transferring to Transylvania,
added new species - our only Kingfisher (right outside our hotel before
breakfast), Red-necked Grebe, Whiskered and Black Terns, Common Sandpiper,
and Lesser Whitethroat, and our first Syrian Woodpeckers and Goshawk and
Sparrowhawk at the same location (a useful comparison). We even
found a Blue-winged Teal, a new species for Romania.
Our first full day in Transylvania added Nutcrackers,
Hazel Grouse (two pairs, frustratingly only glimpsed in flight), and Water
Pipits at 5500ft. But
highlight of the day without doubt was the European Brown Bears, with six
individuals performing in good light and providing the photographers with
some excellent images. The one target bird that eluded us was Capercaillie,
which tantalised us with footprints, faeces, and a feather. But ample
compensation came the following dawn when we watched a cock in full strutting,
jumping, and gurgling display for over half an hour at an autumn lek (a
feature which doesn’t seem to be recorded in the books). Little
wonder that this was voted Bird of the Trip, leaving our next target species
(Wallcreeper-which we saw the moment we arrived at Bicaz Gorge: too easy)
to trail in thirteenth place. Back-up birds included another Long-legged
Buzzard (a new species for our Romanian guide), Dipper, a flock of Fieldfares,
Firecrests, Crested Tits, and Crossbills. The most photographed bird
of our Transylvanian days, however, was a Three-toed Woodpecker which
obliged us by flying onto a dead spruce the moment we were about to enter
the forest to begin our search.
Just as in 2005, with all our Transylvanian targets
met we were able to enjoy a non-birding interlude in atmospheric Sighisoara
with its film-set main square, romantic castle and clock tower, and photogenic
old houses which still looks largely as it did when Dracula lived there
in the fifteenth century. Equally photogenic were the houses in
the UNESCO World Heritage Village of Torocko, some of which housed us
for our final night in Transylvania - a happy evening of home-cooked produce,
local brandies, and reminiscences of the birds of the day: overhead Golden
Eagles, Rock Buntings, and a Green Woodpecker.
Back in the Hortobágy, the epilogue was just as rewarding as the
prologue: several well-photographed Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, white-headed
Long-tailed Tits, a pylon-perching Saker, and a thrilling climax to our
final evening - 22,000 Cranes bugling in to roost and flying over and around
us in unending lines, first into a red sunset and then under a bright moon. Quite
magical.
Our last morning began with Hawfinch (curiously the
first of the trip), bringing our total to 160. This left us four short of last year’s
tally but the countdown continued with Grey Partridge and Stock Dove (which
gave these humble species as much significance as the three more Great Bustards
in the same fields), a typically tame Dotterel, 25 Long-eared Owls roosting
in a town garden, (the equaliser), and finally 11 Greater White-fronted
Geese - full circle from our first day in the Hortobágy when its
smaller cousin was our first target bird. Satisfyingly this gave us
one more species that last year and a healthy target to beat in 2007.” Bryan
Bland
Bird List:
